While many cities in Germany have one main Christmas Market, Berlin has dozens of Christmas Markets from which you can choose based on your interests and style. So, which are the best Christmas markets in Berlin?

Whether you're looking for a traditional German Christmas market or something a bit more offbeat, I offer here my handy Berlin Christmas Market guide. The recommendations are based on our experience living in Berlin for ten years and being avid Christmas market fans. It has all the information you need to know, including dates and schedules of Berlin Christmas markets and notes on how to visit my local favorites — these are Christmas markets that will make your visit to Berlin during the Christmas and holiday season even more special.

The Spirit of German Christmas Markets

There’s something that just about everyone looks forward to in December in Berlin: Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmarkt or Adventsmarkt). They offer a retreat from the shortening days of the year, into the company of gathered friends and neighbors.

In the selection that follows, you'll find the “markets” listed less about shopping and more about community — where friends and families make plans to meet at the market after work or on weekends. A place where the aroma of glühwein (spiced, mulled wine) and sweet roasted almonds wafts in an atmosphere of twinkling lights in a chilly winter vapor.

As conversations happen over steaming mugs of glühwein and hearty German street food like bratwurst, market-goers catch up on life and give air to what awaits at the turn of the new year. Christmas markets serve as the perfect antidote — or accompaniment if you like — to the approaching Winter Solstice.

I confess that I am a bit of a Christmas market geek. I helped launch a Christmas market when I lived in Estonia many years ago. Dan and I have even taken Christmas market-themed road trips through Germany and Central Europe.

Maybe this Christmas market affinity of mine has something to do with the fact that I'm American and I didn't grow up with the Christmas market culture. So, I get a little giddy when the season rolls around and I'm within reach of one. Whatever the cause, this is one of the reasons we stick around Berlin in December.

Does Berlin Have Christmas Markets?

At this point you might be thinking: “German Christmas markets are famous, but I’ve never heard anything about Christmas markets in Berlin.”

OK, then. Berlin’s Christmas markets haven’t traditionally carried the same reputation or history as those in other German cities like Munich, Nuremberg or Stuttgart. But that’s changing. Berlin makes its own way and blends the traditional into the tapestry of its forward-lurching, unusual self.

Just as Berlin doesn’t have one town center, it also doesn’t have one main Christmas market. Instead, Berlin usually features more than 50 markets (in 2022 it's gone up to 70 markets!) spread throughout the city, each with its own distinct personality, atmosphere and specialties. Some run the length of the Advent season, while others are limited-time offers or tuned to the spirit of their local neighborhood for only a weekend or two.

Of course, a certain commercialization and schlock lurks conspicuously at some markets. With this in mind, we share our personal recommendations: a few trusted and traditional or local and authentic favorites to help you get started in your Berlin Christmas market exploration.

Note: This post was originally published on December 3, 2015 and updated on December 8, 2024 with updated dates, times and other information. .

Berlin Christmas Market Dates

Berlin Christmas markets are usually open for the entire Advent Christmas market season, from the end of November through Christmas (and sometimes through to the New Year). In 2024, most of the Berlin Christmas Market open on 25 November 2024 and run until the very end of December or beginning of January 2025.

Best Berlin Christmas Markets

With around 70 Christmas markets in Berlin, so you'll have quite a few to choose from to enjoy the holiday season.

We find these Christmas markets especially atmospheric when it's dark and everything is tastefully lit, which is easy since the sun sets in Berlin before 4PM throughout December. Glühwein seems to taste better in the evening, too.

READ MORE: Berlin Travel: A Beginner's Guide

WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market

Why: For a bit of the traditional in a beautiful setting, especially at night as the Konzerthaus (Concert Hall) and nearby churches and buildings are lit. Gift stands at the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market tend to be handicraft-oriented or luxury-focused. Food quality is generally pretty high here as well.

Be sure to check out the big feuerzangenbowle (fire-tongs punch) tent and seek out the wooden barrel of rum to the right of the bar should you need to “enhance” your steaming mug full of punch. In general, if you encounter a choice of glühwein “mit schuss”, that simply means “with a shot” as in a shot of rum or possibly amaretto. Note: Gendarmenmarkt charges a nominal entrance fee of €1. For more information, check out the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market page.

Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas Market

Why: To drink mugs of steaming glühwein in the shadow of a 300+ year old Baroque palace. The Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas market is one with big time European fairytale charm. Some of its stands feature traditional — and huge — Christmas pyramids which entertain as figures go round and round all night long. Also fun, but kind of cheesy, is the light show at night.

For more information, check out the Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas Market page.

Lucia Christmas Market at Kulturbrauerei (Nordic-Scandanavian Christmas Market)

Why: Because you always wanted to taste the difference between Swedish, Norwegian and Danish glögg (Scandinavian mulled wine). Top off the entire experience with reindeer sausages and a host of other Nordic games and treats and you might just forget where you are. Compared to other open-space Christmas markets, the Lucia Christmas Market is set up in the winding courtyards of Kulturbrauerei, a 19th century brick industrial complex.

For more information, see the Lucia Christmas Market at KulturBrauerei page.

Spandau Old Town and Citadel Christmas Markets

Why: To feel as though you’ve been transported to a small German village even though you remain within the Berlin city limits. The citadel of Spandau, one of the best preserved Renaissance fortresses in Europe, is also taken over by its Christmas market.

The old town of Spandau also hosts a large Christmas Market on its streets. While the atmosphere and some of the bigger stands along the main strip can feel a bit commercial, the little courtyards and stands convey something a bit more traditional.

For more information, see the Spandau Christmas Market page.

Medieval Historical Christmas Market at RAW

Why: To feel like you've gone back in time to a medieval village complete with axe throwing or archery competitions and hand-operated carousels. This Berlin Christmas market is built each year on the grounds of the RAW Cultural Center and is a fun experience and atmosphere, especially for families or kids, thanks to all of its performances and games.

You can warm yourself up around one of the several fire pits and drink mulled wine or hot mead from heavy ceramic mugs. There is also plenty of hearty food, some of it of it aiming to be “medieval” (aka, heavy), to keep you warm and full. A fun way to spend a cold winter evening.

For more information see the Historical Christmas Market at RAW Cultural Centre page.

Potsdam Christmas Market

Why: To take a break from the big city. Visit the Potsdam UNESCO sites of Sanssouci Palace and gardens during the day and enjoy eierpunsch (spiced egg punch) at the Christmas market at night. The market takes over the streets of the old town for blocks on end and features some of the most elaborate and largest displays we’ve seen. There’s also an ice skating rink and other fun stuff for kids…or adults.

There is also a Polish Christmas Market nearby at the Kutschstallhof from 2-4 December to get your fill of Polish pierogis, handicrafts and other specialties.

For more information, see the Potsdam Christmas Market page.

Berlin Neighborhood and Weekend Christmas Markets

In addition to Christmas markets which run the entire length of Advent, Berlin also features its share of short-run special and weekend markets. These markets are typically smaller affairs featuring local organizations and neighborhood-oriented venues. If you're visiting Berlin for a couple of days during the Christmas season and authentic and local is what you seek, it's absolutely worth doing some research to see which of these markets happens to be timed with your visit.

Alt-Rixdorfer Christmas Market

Why: The Rixdorf Christmas Market serves as a nice kickoff to the Christmas season. It also illustrates how a neighborhood Christmas market can be done well and at scale with local organizations selling homemade crafts to raise money for schools, charities, firemen’s groups, and more. Stands tend to be locally run and offer a perfect excuse to get to know the Neukölln district a little better.

The square where the Alt-Rixdorf Christmas market is held, Richardplatz, features an enclosure with pony rides and a petting zoo. The whole thing is sweet, quaint and helps take you back in time a bit. For more information, see the Alt-Rixdorfer Christmas Market page.

Heissa Holzmarkt

Why: For a mixture of traditional and alternative in a fun and eclectic Berlin community space. Located on the Spree River in Friedrichshain, Holzmarkt is open all year around with its fixed shops, bakery, art studios and event space. Its Christmas market open on weekends during the advent season transforms what feels like its own urban village into a bit of a traditional and modern winter wonderland with bonfires by the river, ample amounts of glühwein, silent disco booths, German and international food options, bizarre puppet shows, and much more. This has become one of our favorite Berlin Christmas markets in the last years.

For more information, see this Heissa Holzmarkt Christmas Market page.

Schloss Britz Christmas Market

Why: To experience an intimate Nordic Medieval Fairytale Christmas market in the courtyard of an 18th century manor house. Though medieval costumes are involved here, the market somehow seems to pull this off without being a caricature of itself. As Schloss Britz Christmas market doesn't typically see the hordes that other markets might, you'll have the opportunity to speak to the various artisans and learn more about their handicrafts, preserves and other wares. The food served is usually inventive and a bit different than standard fare.

There is a €3 entrance fee, but we feel that the atmosphere and quality of the stands warrants the price. For more information, see the Schloss Britz Christmas Market page.

Christmas Market at Domäne Dahlem

Why: Located on the grounds of a manor house which also serves as a sort of farm and agricultural museum, the Christmas Market at Domäne Dahlem includes many small producers and artisans selling everything from sea salts and spices to traditional German handicrafts.

There is also an emphasis on fresh and organic foods, so you can certainly eat well and heartily here. Domäne Dahlem is a bit outside Berlin center, but if you want a more neighborhood and countryside feel, check out this Christmas Market during one of the Advent weekends. Entrance is €4.50.

For more information, see the Christmas Market at Domäne Dahlem page.

Berlin Christmas Market Resources

• A complete list of Berlin Christmas markets maintained by Visit Berlin

More Holiday Things to do in Berlin

Even if visiting Christmas markets is the main goal of your winter visit to Berlin, there are other holiday and Christmas-oriented things to do in the city. Here are a few of the more popular tours, events and experiences in Berlin as offered by our partner (also Berlin-based), Get Your Guide. They offer many different Berlin tours with no booking fees and free cancellation up to 24 hours before.

• Christmas Garden in the Botanical Gardens: I have to admit that I never thought about visiting the Botanical Gardens for Christmas this until my hairdresser recommended it as her favorite holiday activity in Berlin. A 2-km route takes you through a winter wonderland of lights and different holiday installations.
• Berlin TV Tower Fast View Tickets: Get out of the cold and up above it all with these fast-track tickets that allow you to skip the line and go straight up to the top of the TV Tower. You'll have great views of the Christmas market below at Alexander Platz as well as the city as a whole.
• Berlin Welcome Card with Transport Pass: Get around the city by public transportation easily without worrying about buying or validating your tickets with this Berlin Welcome Card (ABC Zones). You can choose different lengths, from 48-hours to 6-days. And, the Welcome Card provides you with lots of discounts at different attractions, shops or museums. We've used Berlin Welcome Cards quite a bit when we've had visitors as it's cost-effective when you plan to travel around a lot and do a lot of different activities.

Best Areas in Berlin To Stay for Christmas Markets

Here are a few recommended accommodation options in some of our favorite Berlin neighborhoods of Kreuzberg-Friedrichshain, Neukölln, and Mitte.

• Weinmeister Hotel in Mitte: Located in the heart of Mitte near Hackescher Markt and not far from Alexanderplatz, this design hotel is in a great location and has a beautiful rooftop terrace for meals and drinks. Several friends and work colleagues have stayed here and recommend it. Note: this is an adult-only hotel.
• Hüttenpalast in Neukölln: Located in a fun and hip area between Kreuzberg and Neukölln, Hüttenpalast offers both retro-style caravans and cabins, as well as hotel rooms, and a relaxing garden. Friends have enjoyed staying here.
• Nena Apartments in Bergmannkiez, Kreuzberg: If you want your own apartment and kitchen to self-cater, these apartments on a quiet street in the cute Bergmannkiez part of Kreuzberg are a good option. There are also Nena Apartments in Neukölln (Hermannplatz) and in the Moritzplatz area of Kreuzberg.
• Michelberger Hotel in Friedrichshain: Located close to the East Side Gallery (2km of the Berlin Wall that is now an outdoor mural gallery) and Spree River, the Michelberger Hotel has a great lobby and restaurant on the ground floor and unique design rooms of all sizes and prices. Several friends who have stayed here recommend it for the rooms and the location.
• Circus Hostel in Berlin: If you are looking for a hostel or budget accommodation option, several friends have recommended Circus Hostel with both dorm and single/double room options. It's located very close to Rosenthaler Platz in Mitte with lots of local restaurants, cafes and bars in walking distance. The owners have recently opened up Circus Hotel nearby if you aren't into the hostel vibe.

Plan Your Berlin Christmas Market Trip

• How to get to Berlin: There are endless options to fly to Berlin thanks to all the traditional and low cost airlines flying into TXL (Tegel Airport) or SXF (Schönefeld Airport). We often use Skyscanner to compare flight prices and to book tickets because it displays all the various airline combinations, including options from low-fare airlines.
• Berlin restaurant recommendations: For budget eating, check our our guides for favorite cheap eats in Berlin under €5 and our favorite neighborhood meals under €10. StilinBerlin offers another reliable resource for local Berlin restaurants and “best of” guides.

The post Berlin Christmas Markets: The Ultimate Guide (Updated 2024) appeared first on Uncornered Market.

The tires of our e-bikes rested on the cobbles of what we imagined was an old imperial road. Our early morning cycle had wound up through the meadows and canopies of a nature reserve carved out along the banks of the Tiber River in central Italy. A long stretch of road opened revealing veils of mist rising above the bends of water below.

As the road turned steeper still and narrowed, a 13^th century castle with hill towns in view just behind it hinted at the medieval history around us, of struggles between barons and popes.

This is Lazio, a slice of Italy with all the archaeological, culinary, natural and romantic trappings you might expect but, for now at least, without the crowds.

Lazio, Italy: Wide Open

“Where is Lazio?” a friend asked when we first spoke of setting off on this trip.

Despite having visited Italy well over a dozen times since we married (in Tuscany), we knew little about Lazio prior to this project, one initiated by Thybris River Experience and funded by Lazio Region, one intended to craft new guided e-bike itineraries in the region.

If you felt the need to place yourself in the geographic center of Italy, you might not imagine Lazio, the regional home to Italy’s capital Rome. But it’s about where you’d be.

As our guide Giorgia unspooled her stories, she hinted that Lazio was pressed between the ritualized Etruscans to the north in Tuscany and the free-wheeling Bourbon-influenced provinces of southern Italy. In all ways, Lazio seems to teeter in between these worlds.

She also explained the word Lazio was derived from the Latin word latus meaning “wide.” While this referred to the low-lying areas around Rome, the idea of Lazio as “wide open”, including for exploration, grew on us as we spent more time. Much of what we experienced felt relatively undiscovered from a tourism perspective.

From the well-preserved ancient echoes of Ostia Antica to the modern psychic imprint of Italian film greats and philosopher-poets like Pier Paolo Pasolini, this part of northern Lazio might bear a label that reads “greater Rome.” Yet our daily experience was more expansive. It featured hill town espresso breaks, hidden sculpture gardens, migratory bird hides, and overnights in restored villas, all punctuated with random encounters and mid-afternoon noshes on pastas turned in local products and paired with local wines.

Developing guided e-bike itineraries in Lazio

Our journey through Lazio included ten days' worth of e-bike rides in three distinct areas, each within about an hour's train ride from Rome. The goal of these three itineraries, which our involvement and feedback will help refine, is to enable travelers to engage with lesser-known hill towns, protected areas, cultural curiosities and historical sites in Lazio Region along the Tiber River as it winds its way from north of Rome, through the city and out to the Tyrrhenian Sea on Italy's west coast.⁠

The two- and three-day customizable trips connect travelers to still relatively unknown areas near Rome in a way that celebrates local communities, artisans and experiences.

Core to these guided tours are the concepts of sustainability, community, and a focus on all things local, including accommodation, guides, food, transport and providers. Although all destinations noted here can be accessed via other methods of transport, e-bikes featured as our primary mode of transport together with an occasional regional train. The aim: to maximize local benefit and minimize environmental impact.

Across three multi-day itineraries in Lazio, here are just some of the people and places you might encounter.

A big thanks goes to Giorgia Cadinu, a dynamic professional guide in Rome and cycling enthusiast. She initiated this project and shared her curiosity and passion for the Tiber River and Lazio Region with us all along the way. If you wish to book or customize any of the following guided itineraries, contact Thybris River Experience. Note that the website may refer to the tours as Pomona (Tuscia and Teverina), Bona Dea (Tevere Farfa Reserve and Nazzano), and Leucotea and Egeria (Ostia Antica, Fiumicino, and Isola Sacra into Rome) lands respectively.

1. Tuscia and Teverina: hill town and villa life

Just an hour outside Rome by train are the Tuscia and Teverina districts of northern Lazio on the border of Italy's Umbria and Tuscany regions. Despite the accessibility of these districts to the capital city, you'll find what feels like a completely different world — one defined by rolling landscapes, wine farms, and a spread of palazzi and manor houses which harken back to barons whose designs for power may have conflicted with a pope or two.

Explore the hill towns of Tuscia in Lazio by e-bike

While Tuscany and Umbria are famous for their hill towns, you’ll find the beauty of medieval hill towns with melodic names like Civitella d'Agliano, Celleno, Roccalvecce, Sippiciano and Vitorchiano perched high above the Tiber River valley in Lazio.

But these destinations come without the crowds, for now at least.

One of the benefits of traveling by e-bike from hill town to hill town around the region is the opportunity to appreciate the contours and changes in landscape, as well as the subtle shifts in character of the towns and townspeople along the way.

From forest to rolling hill to volcanic farm, our cycling journey from one destination to another delivered some of the most memorable and most photogenic experiences of the day.

Trebotti Wine Farm: Taste volcanic wines from a fully sustainable winery

While many wineries today have only just begun to focus on sustainability, Trebotti winery in the hills of Tuscia has made sustainability core to its family-run operations for over 20 years. During a tour, you'll see this considered in every detail: the (re)use of an ancient Etruscan cellar to store its sparkling wines, the choice to grow only indigenous grapes on its volcanic soils, the use of lightweight glass bottles, and an elaborate self-regulating air circulation system to reduce energy consumption. The goal of all this is to operate sustainably, to live up to the wine's organic label, to manage environmental impact and to find balance with nature.

If anyone wished to understand what sustainability looks like in detailed operation, this wine farm would be a great place to start.

Federico, our host, summed it up well: “To be sustainable is to respect the land.”

Our wine tasting featured five wines paired with homegrown produce and homemade bites, enjoyed overlooking the Trebotti vineyards below.⁠ Sample the local Grechetto, a white wine varietal you'll likely become familiar with on your visit to the Lazio region. We sampled a rose and orange wine, both of which paired nicely with semi-dried tomato confit, crostini and local cured sausage.

Finally, we tasted two red wines, including our favorite Gocce Rosso made from Violone, the local Lazio name for the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo varietal. This paired with a 72-month aged caciocavallo cheese and homemade salted chocolate nocciola red wine crema proved an astonishing way to conclude a tasting.

La Serpara: Find the hidden sculpture garden

For over 25 years the artist Paul Wiedmer and his wife Jacqueline have invited artists to find inspiration in nature and to harness the creative spirit at their home-atelier tucked in the hills near the town of Civitella d'Agliano. Today, La Serpara is open for private visits.

You can enjoy a guided walk around sculpture gardens and bamboo forests dotted with modern art installations and take in the story of the site and the works that various artists-in-residence have created over the years.

Civitella d'Agliano: craftsmen bicycles and castles

There seems to be no trade or service that couldn't be delivered on the back of a bicycle in early- to mid-20th century Italy. Knife sharpener, priest, portrait photographer, mattress cleaner, hairdresser, obstetrician. These are just a few of the professions, together with their customized, elaborately outfitted bicycles, that form the private collection at Il Mulino dei Mestieri (The Mill of Craftsmen) in Civitella d'Agliano.

Alessia and her husband Daniele have spent over ten years collecting, repairing and lovingly restoring their collection of antique craftsmen bicycles. This snapshot of 20th century village trade history is now on display in a local mill. As Alessia showed us around and demonstrated kits of each bicycle, it was remarkable to see how every step, tool and feature of each service or trade was carefully integrated into bicycle construction.

If you are a bicycle-bound obstetrician, a baby's life depends on it!

Delivery services today seem to have nothing on the early 20th century blend of ingenuity and efficiency. And certainly nothing of the personality.

Celleno: Il Borgo Fantasma

The town of Celleno, known today as Il Borgo Fantasma (the “Ghost Town”), had been a vibrant, living hill town for over 1000 years until the mid-20th century when a string of earthquakes and landslides rendered it a dangerous place to live. However, each time the authorities tried to clear inhabitants from their homes and move them elsewhere, they returned. It was their home after all.

Eventually, in the 1950s, the authorities demolished most of the old town buildings. Hence, Celleno became a ghost town where only the ruins of buildings remain.

Some of the surviving medieval structures have recently been transformed into an open air museum and a series of historical exhibitions. One features a collection of 20th century sound and recording devices, while another antique and artifact exhibition is built around a multi-story medieval trash tunnel dating back 800 years. These “medieval trash heaps” as they are called are fascinating, not least of all because they give pause and make one wonder what story will one day be drawn from all the trash we currently generate.

Celleno, beautiful and intriguing, offers a fascinating story of of rescued history.

A taste of Tuscia, with a view at San Rocco Restaurant

San Rocco Restaurant, in the inhabited “new town” of Celleno, lies just outside the rampart walls of the ghost town and focuses on local Tuscian fare. Note that's not Tuscan fare, but Tuscian fare from the local region including hill towns like Celleno and the nearby city of Viterbo.

We were fortunate since our visit coincided with the porcini harvest. In-season porcini mushrooms were picked fresh from the forest off in the distance below our lunch terrace. Lunch also included rabbit stew, gnocchi in cime di rapa (broccoli greens) and a plate of stewed fagioli (beans). We opted to pair it all with a local Lazio Pinot Grigio called Satres from Le Lase vineyards. The orange hue in the glass? From 24 to 48 hours of contact with the skin of the grape.

Stay in the restored 18th century Villa Lais

One of the most memorable highlights of this itinerary was our 3-night stay at Villa Lais just outside the town of Sipicciano. Maddalena, the artist proprietor of Villa Lais, purchased this 18th century compound almost ten years ago and has lovingly renovated it over the ensuing years.

Ceilings and walls of inlaid wood illustrated in muted yet dazzling color mesmerize with detail, line and story. The tableau is rich yet not gratuitously busy or overdone. Maddalena's careful eye for design shows in everything, from the furniture to the wine glasses used at dinner, to create a feeling of living history and continuity to the villa's past that feels in no way contrived.

Another characteristic that makes this place feel like home are the four dogs and ten cats who are always ready to greet you when you return from a day of countryside exploration.

Sacro Bosco, the 16th Century “Park of the Monsters”

Sacro Bosco (“Sacred Forest”), also affectionately known as Park of the Monsters, is more firmly on the tourist path than most other destinations we visited in Lazio. But we kind of understand why. The park and its sculptures were commissioned in the mid-16th century by Prince Pier Francesco Orsini as a way to express his grief due both to the untimely death of his wife and the weight of the brutality he had witnessed in war.

Featuring a collection of large stone sculptures depicting fantastic and often disturbing creatures all scattered about in a forest just outside the hill town of Bomarzo, the park was a bit ahead of its time in its vision and anticipation of the need for exhausting one's grief. Despite the fairly steep price of individual admission (13€) and the park's undeniable commercial feel, it might still be worth a look.

2. Tevere-Farfa Reserve and Nazzano: nature, hill towns and art

Our exploration of Lazio continued further along the Tiber River in and around the Tevere-Farfa Natural Reserve. This is the place where the Tiber River environment takes center stage in the experience. Landscapes are green and the pace is reflective, despite the area only being an hour northeast of Rome by train.

Hill towns feature again, but they serve as the backdrop for natural surroundings like swimming wild boars, as well as moments of contemporary culture and artistic flourish, and a surprising lesson in modern history.

Canoeing the Tiber River

The bends of the Tiber River in open green space define the Tevere-Farfa Natural Reserve. Landscape is defined by texture, including hillsides of exposed volcanic tufa rock. Castles seem to keep watch atop the nearby hills overlooking the river valley. Wildlife make their way about. For the first time, we encountered wild boars swimming, making their way from one side of the river to the other.

When we did our paddle, we encountered grey herons and egrets, and various birds pausing as they make their way southward.

Eat farm-to-table at La Fattoria Campo di Contra

As we lounged and noshed farm-to-table with Mauro, founder of La Fattoria Didattica Campo di Contra, we found our table refreshed multiple times with simple dishes fashioned from produce fresh from his organic garden and goods sourced from nearby farms and producers.

Over conversation about life in the region, we enjoyed a range of small plate treats like zucchini flower fritters sided with honey made by bees who snack on local resin, antipasto locale, grilled melanzane (eggplant) and peppers, and fresh bean salad. And Mauro served all of it with his rather quaffable homemade wine.

With our meal as the object lesson, we could feel the vision Mauro has for his land and for helping to connect visitors to nature.

Medieval hill towns and castles to explore

Hill towns featured again in our travels across the Tiber River valley, including one of our visual favorites, Nazzano. It's the one you'll see from below in the Tevere-Farfa Nature Reserve. Historically, we imagined it high up and cliffside in order for its minders to eye the Tiber River below as it flowed with goods into Rome.

As we dreamily perused listings posted inside windows of real estate agents in Nazzano we wondered what it would be like to set up shop, restore one of these buildings and actually live here.

In other hill town stops, we enjoyed beer and snacks in a piazza (and got invited to lunch), took espresso breaks with locals enjoying the morning sun and did things like snack-slurp suppli di telefono, a warm croquette so-called because its mozzarella is so oozy it stretches like telephone wire.

Hike and cycle the trails of Tevere-Farfa Natural Reserve

Tevere-Farfa Natural Reserve is the first protected area in Lazio Region.  When we first entered the park, we found ourselves clearly in the thick of nature. The sun was low and peeked through the trees, casting light and shadows on the more curious members of the local boar families lurking about.  

Between boat rides and canoe trips, we took gentle strolls and and cycled much of the trail that winds itself around and through the bends in the Tiber.

Ecoturismo Tevere Farfa, built on the site of the old organic farm cooperative, is the only accommodation in the park itself and served as our base. Home to a curious cast of characters including a donkey and a sheep who enjoys giving head butts, it functions also as an educational and community gathering center.

Ponzano Romano: Enjoy a conversation with a local artist

Though most of Michele Longo's working years were spent in Rome directing films and mixing it up in cafes with the likes of Pasolini, he now focuses his time painting and creating mixed media art in his apartment studio in the hill town of Ponzano Romano. Surrounded by plants and fruit trees on his sunny veranda, we enjoyed a conversation with him over Cornettino di Ponzano Romano (a savory crisp croissant twist dashed with anise, extra virgin olive oil and glazed just slightly sweet) and demi-tasses of espresso.

Longo's passion is palpable, as is his concern for what he sees as the deterioration of societal elements that support the development of creativity. We appreciated his pithy wisdom and spirit at 82-years young. We also discovered his secret to “creative fermentation” along the way. Hint: it's not about virtual interaction.

Ponzano Romano is also known for its contemporary art museum, which was unfortunately closed at the time of our visit due to a change in exhibitions. However, if you take note of Longo's observation that Ponzano Romano is a more creative city than Rome, the museum is likely worth a look.

Bunker Soratte: Go deep in the WWII and Cold War tunnels

Just when you think you've seen it all in terms of WWII and 20th century military history, you walk into this place and one jaw-drop follows another as history bends the mind again.

Marvel at the scale of Bunker Soratte, Mussolini’s mega-bunker tunnel complex atop Mount Soratte and near the town of Sant'Oreste. Apparently sensing the winds of war, Mussolini ordered it carved into the mountains by Italian engineers. After its construction from 1937 to 1939, and due to Il Duce’s loose hubristic lips, the bunker was squatted by Nazi Germany thereafter and run by Field Marshal Albert Kesselring as the Supreme Command of the South.

Later during the Cold War, the four kilometer tunnel network would become a nuclear fallout shelter for officials in the Italian government.

Site lore makes the place even more intriguing. One story tells of the allied bombing of the bunker (that deliberately spared the nearby town) with the help of a local engineer who communicated intelligence and guidance signals via a transmitter hidden in a birdcage. (Does that make him “the bird man” of Sant'Oreste?) And the lost, stolen Nazi gold? That one begs a miniseries.

The whole thing is pretty sobering too, once you overcome the fascination. Some reflective time out for an espresso or the drink of your choice should follow in the friendly little town of Sant'Oreste nearby.

Fondazione Serpone: art, nature and a surprising chapel

The sculpture garden and outdoor art installations at Fondazione Serpone in Torrita Tiberina are made available by way of a private family collection open to the public (by appointment). Each of its artist-donated pieces is carefully considered and positioned throughout the grounds of the hillside property.

Together, the pieces delight in playful, subtle ways. The subtlety ends, rather deliberately, upon opening the door to the chapel installation executed by Austrian philosopher-artist Hermann Nitsch. What might be considered the centerpiece of the property and its installations, the chapel's interior offers a surprising and challenging interpretation of the spiritual. And the chapel is blessed by the local bishop!

Ecofattorie Sabine: terrace lunch on an organic farm

After all that movement and cycling, uphill and down, a bit of restoration and stock-taking is required.

Ecofattorie Sabine in Poggio Mirteto offers an ideal location for a meal before catching the train to Rome. The farm is right there, so everything is fresh, but so is the train station, so you can roll onto the train after your meal.

For lunch, we shared honey-bathed ricotta; gnocchi with pumpkin cream, sheep cheese, sage and crouton crumble; pici pasta with walnut pesto and stracciatella; cicory greens ripassta and an autumn salad. With our meal, we enjoyed a Lazio Tragugnano Orvieto DOC from Sergio Mottura vineyard, an organic white wine blend featuring, again, the Greccheto varietal.

III. On Rome's Edge: Ostia, Fiumicino, and Isola Sacra

Everyone knows of Rome, the Eternal City, for its deep history and archeological wonders. However, not too far out of town in the direction of Fiumicino airport lies a handful of remarkable sites that often go unnoticed. ⁠ If you are looking for even more impressive history and ruins without the crowds, check out Ostia Antica and Portus, two nearby Tiber River gateways for commerce and exchange during the Roman Empire.

These lesser known archeological ruins speak to the development and growth of Rome and form the cornerstone of a kind of “Rome you never knew” experience. To connect past to present, our itinerary also included encounters with passionate local people and projects highlighting the link between community, history and nature in and around the surrounding communities of Fiumicino and Isola Sacra.

Ostia Antica: The ancient Roman Empire…just outside Rome

Stroll the ancient streets, homes, theater and businesses of the once thriving ancient city of Ostia, known today as Ostia Antica. Although this site does not garner the attention (or crowds) of the top-tier archeological sites in nearby Rome, nor trigger the kind of emotion you might experience at Pompeii, the evidence of what life was like in this town some 2000 years ago astonishes due to its remarkable state of preservation. Marble-topped bars? Ostia Antica had them. Street food stalls? Those too. Maybe that's why Ostia Antica is considered among Rome's first colonies despite its proximity to Rome itself.

Portus (The Port of Claudius and the Harbor of Trajan)

Just down the road from Ostia Antica in the direction of Fiumicino (home to Rome's airport FCO) lies Portus and the Archaeological Area of the Imperial Harbours of Claudius and Trajan. Imagine the bustling ancient city of Portus while strolling the stone-quiet ruins of the Port of Claudius (42 AD) and Harbor of Trajan (100 AD).

Today, this archeological site is 3 km from the Mediterranean coastline, making it difficult to imagine that 2,000 years ago this artificial, hexagon-shaped harbor was fully submerged and served as Rome's main port to the Mediterranean Sea.

Goods arriving by sea were unloaded at the port and harbor, then transferred to smaller boats on the Tiber River to take to Rome. This configuration allowed Rome access to the Mediterranean Sea along with a layer of protection.

Portus grew in such size and importance that it received the status of an independent city in the 4th century. However, history consigned the port to disuse. Much of it remains undiscovered, quite literally underground, so one can only imagine what lies underneath the airport and the nearby towns of Fiumicino and Isola Sacra.

Explore the ancient tombs at the Necropolis of Portus

If you wish to understand the ancients, understand how they honored, buried and stored their dead.

The Necropolis of Portus in Isola Sacra is a vast cemetery dating from the 1st century A.D. Although the well-off at the time could afford mausoleums and tombs whose epic mosaic floors remain intact even today, workers from the Roman port and harbor and tradesmen of various crafts were relegated to packed burial niches and much tighter quarterage.

The site is absolutely worth a visit. The necropolis and its surroundings combines the tranquility you'd expect from a burial site with the wonder and story of a cache of archaeological ruins offering a glimpse into the lives and livelihoods of those who helped build the surrounding history.

Eat and drink local in Fiumicino

For lunch on the Tiber River near a marina in Fiumicino, we enjoyed 4112 – QuarantunoDodici Restaurant, a more laid back bistro version of the Michelin-starred Il Tino restaurant upstairs

Resisting an urge to try everything on the menu, we reined it in and opted for a palate cleansing starter, the merluzzo (salted codfish) and red beet carpaccio dashed with raspberry vinegar. Appreciating the scratch pad of the seven local species of fresh fish on offer, we shared a whole sarago, a kind of Mediterranean bream not to be confused with either branzino or orata. Distinct, tasty and light. We went bold and paired it all with a Fioranello Bianco from Lazio.

When we were in Fiumicino poking around the Port of Claudius and Harbor of Trajan, we stopped by nearby Bioagricola Traiano for lunch. The restaurant is located on the edge of its organic garden, chicken hut and bee hives so you can imagine the source of many of the ingredients you see on the regularly changing menu.

We opted for a couple of appetizers and pasta dishes, including fried polenta over cicoria greens and homemade pasta with zucchini pesto. Meals are visually appealing and tasty enough, but portions are big and hearty so beware of over-ordering as we did.

Meet a local historian at Museo della Cultura Contadina

⁠Past and present come together at the Museo della Cultura Contadina in Isola Sacra. Our host, Oswaldo, shared the history of the area and how it had been transformed from a swamp — they literally drained the swamp — into a productive tract of agricultural land during the early-to-mid-20th century.

He is one of the few remaining descendants who still lives there. Through the museum he works with the community to preserve the story of the establishment of the area as an economic development opportunity and enticement to Italian World War I veterans from around Italy to settle and work the land after the world wars.

Check out the Pietro Micca steam tugboat

Along the Tiber River as it readies to spill into the Tyrrhenian Sea, Giulio, the passionate owner of the Pietro Micca steam tugboat, keeps a piece of maritime history and heritage alive to illustrate the evolution of technologies and energy use.

The Pietro Micca dates back to 1895 and has known many incarnations, including its original role as a tugboat, then support ship for an American military base in Naples. Most recently it served as a traveling, floating modern-day sustainability education program run by Giulio and his family.

Although the operations of the ship are not currently sustainable since its steam is generated by diesel, Giulio remarks that “we need to remember and understand where we were and are [in terms of sustainability and energy] to know where we're going.” In fact, his vision of sustainable evolution for the ship includes its eventual conversion to electric power. That would be something.

Birdwatch at LIPU Oasis and witness the regeneration of nature

Two decades ago, Alex Polinori of LIPU Oasis (Centro Habitat Mediterraneo Ostia) set off to turn a garbage dump into a suburban oasis and a thriving home for migratory birds. Since then, he and his team have planted over 7,000 trees and helped reclaim a patch of once disregarded wetlands that now attracts a fast-growing list of migratory bird species and local wildlife.

LIPU Ostia is a case study in natural land reclamation and regenerative tourism. If you are bird enthusiast, it's worth the effort to time your visit with that of the visiting birds' migratory patterns.

To optimize the atmosphere of the wetlands, it's only possible to watch the birds through two bird hides. The hides provide birdwatchers an opportunity to enjoy the birds in their natural environment without disturbing them. Depending upon the time of year you may see an unusual and wide array of birds and water fowl including flamingos, pelicans, rare Europeans duck species, woodpeckers, and more.

Sentiero Pasolini and Regina Ciclarium: A return to Rome

From Ostia and the coast, human civilization yields again to nature. As it does, reeds and thickets have been cleared along the hand-marked Sentiero Pasolini (Pasolini Path). Pier Paolo Pasolini, whose name comes up often throughout the itinerary, was a prolific poet and film director, perhaps most well-known for his film Mamma Roma (1962). For the first-timer, Pasolini is difficult to grok: in parts folk, suburban, spiritual, philosophical, and wary and weary from his time in the war. Controversial, thoughtful. And unfortunately, a voice snuffed out by murder (and some say assassination) in 1975.

The Pasolini Path yields to the Regina Ciclarium as it winds its way through the suburbs of Rome, by street art caches, and over and around old bridges and Tiber River infrastructure from the Roman Empire. The paths, for cyclists and hikers alike, are community-maintained and in full disclosure, a work in progress.

After navigating and emerging from what felt like a time warp, we found ourselves somehow startled to be staring at the Roman Colosseum. From there, we wound our way further past the imposing yet human scale of history, through to more polished neighborhoods and the touristic center city Rome.

In many ways, we'd completed the cycle.

Disclosure: The experiences above were provided to us in conjunction with a Lazio Region-funded consulting project with Thybris River Experience entailing product advisory, product marketing and destination positioning. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

The post Exploring Lazio: Off-the-Beaten Path Italy Outside Rome appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Hiking in Cyprus may not be top of mind when travelers consider this Mediterranean island for vacation. Most associate it with its beaches and resorts. However, our recent visit to Cyprus illustrates that the country not only offers sea, sun and deep history, but a variety of natural landscapes and geological diversity that makes hiking on the island a delight.

We share here our favorite hiking trails in Cyprus, from coastal to mountain hikes. Whether you're interested in a hiking vacation or just to include a hike into your visit to Cyprus, here is all the information you need to plan your trip.

Cyprus, a Surprising Hiking Destination

With its rocky coastlines, dramatic cliffs, impressive Troodos Mountains, and forests filled with old, gnarly juniper, cypress and pine trees, Cyprus surprises as a hiking destination. Add to that pleasant weather almost all year around thanks to its position in southern Europe, a fascinating and long history, hearty local food and increasingly good quality wines, and you have all the ingredients for a well-rounded, active Mediterranean getaway.

Our goal traveling to Cyprus for a week: a vacation filled with hiking, sunshine, good food and wine — all rounded out by walks around the capital city of Nicosia and visits to archeological sites. To do this, we chose several hiking trails in Cyprus as the anchors of our one-week travel itinerary, then planned everything else around those hikes and whatever the weather gods threw at us.

For us, exploring Cyprus through its hiking trails allowed us to see the best of the island by way of its national parks and natural beauty including endemic flora and fascinating geological formations. This approach also helped us avoid many of the touristy areas and crowds that Cyprus can be known for.

If you’re interested in the best hiking in Cyprus and assembling an active travel itinerary, then this hiking guide has all you need to know. It includes our favorite hiking trails, the best time to go hiking, what to bring with you, and where to stay — all so you can plan, organize and enjoy your hiking trip to Cyprus.

This post is long as it includes everything in one place we needed to know before we took our hiking trip to Cyprus. Feel free to click on a specific section from the table below to get to the information you need.

Favorite Hiking Trails in Cyprus

Despite Cyprus being a relatively small island, its hiking trails feature a surprising diversity of natural landscapes and styles. As you'll see from our photos, each of the hiking trails highlighted below was unique to the others, making for a well-rounded hiking experience.

Most of the hiking trails below are located in protected areas and feature some trail markings, but we suggest downloading GPX tracks and/or using you favorite map app (we use PocketEarth for offline maps) or hiking app (we use Komoot and AllTrails). This way, you'll have at least one digital version of the trail in case you get lost. As Cyprus’ environment and nature is quite fragile, be sure to stick to marked trails and be gentle with the natural surroundings.

Be sure to check the forecast in advance as weather can change quite dramatically, especially in winter. Bad weather can make a hike unpleasant and, especially in the case of canyon hikes, dangerous. Early starts are recommended, both to take advantage of better weather in the mornings and to end early enough to seek out a sunset drink.

Finally, be sure to seize the occasional moment to take a deep breath, look around you, and appreciate where you are.

Note: All hiking trails noted below are in Republic of Cyprus, the southern side of the island. We did not hike any trails in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

Aphrodite Loop Extended – Best Hike for Coastal Views in Cyprus

Located in the northwestern part of Cyprus near the Akamas Forest, the Aphrodite Loop is deservedly one the island’s most popular hikes thanks to its dramatic cliffs and coastal views. The trail takes you past the Baths of Aphrodite and a waterfall grotto set in some botanical gardens, then up along some juniper-dotted rocky cliffs to the Moutti tis Sotiras overlook of Cape Arnoutis below.

On the descent the hiking trail makes its way past some ruins of a medieval monastery, a 500-year old oak tree and through diverse forests populated with local mountain goats.

We recommend following the Aphrodite Loop trail clockwise. This way, you begin your hike along the coast and continue climbing higher toward the cliffs, with the hills with sweeping coastline views beneath you. The trail markers indicate the opposite direction, which might make the hike easier and less steep overall. However, setting off along the coastline offers excellent light and pairs the best early morning weather with the coastline where you'll likely appreciate it most.

While the standard Aphrodite Loop is around 7.5 km / 4.7 miles, we turned onto the Adonis trail on our inland descent (after the monastery ruins) to add more distance (4 km / 2.5 miles) and some additional landscapes. The Adonis is a pleasant trail through old pine, cypress and juniper forests and grassy areas filled with grazing sheep and goats. Keep an eye out for all the wild sage, oregano and other herbs along the trail.

How to get to the Aphrodite Loop trailhead:

We drove from Paphos to the Aphrodite Loop trailhead, a beautiful route of around 50 km or 1 hour. Free parking is available near the entrance to the Botanical Gardens. There's also a public bus stop for bus 622 from Polis which you can connect to from Paphos and other locations.

Avakas Gorge Trail – Most Dramatic Hike in Cyprus

The depth of the Avakas Gorge makes this hike both stunningly beautiful and challenging. While most only hike the first kilometer or two into the gorge and turn back (this segment offers the most dramatic landscapes for the least effort), we encourage you to keep going until the end of the gorge.

For the fit and intrepid, the gorge deepens, winds and opens up in varied and striking ways. You may even run into some wild goats grazing in the hills along the way.

Unfortunately, the trail markings mostly end after the first kilometer or two, leaving you to follow the direction of the gorge and look for worn paths and footprints on either side of the stream. The trail becomes quite challenging at times, especially following rainfall (common in winter) as the water in the stream rises and the rocks become slippery. You may find yourself climbing over boulders and hugging onto cliffs, so be sure to wear good hiking shoes and carry your hiking poles.

The Avakas Gorge Trail continues through the entirety of the gorge until you reach a hilly, green pasture at the end. This is a good stop for a snack or picnic, or just to enjoy the bucolic scene of grazing sheep and goats around you.

Many Avakas Gorge hiking trails suggest you return again through the gorge, but we found a hiking trail south of the gorge up along the rim and through the Peyia State Forest. We recommend taking this trail back. This approach will offer some variety, be easier on your joints, and be faster than going back through the entire gorge again.

How to get to the Avakas Gorge trailhead:

We drove from Paphos to the Avakas Gorge, which was supposed to take around 30-45 minutes. However, beware of Google Map directions as it will suggest the shortest route, which includes going on some unpaved country roads until it reaches a road that has been washed out, forcing you to turn around (as it did us).

Instead, be sure to follow the directions which take you by the Avakas Gorge Road that approaches the gorge from the west (the coast). The last part of the road is not paved. We ended up parking around 0.5 km away from the trailhead parking lot, just to avoid taking our tiny rental car on the final stretch of the road that was full of bumps and holes. However, you can drive further to the parking lot at the trailhead. Just be advised.

It’s technically possible to get close to the Avakas Gorge by public bus, but you’ll have to switch buses times and have a bit of a walk at the end to get to the trailhead.

Atalante Trail – Best Troodos Mountains Hiking

It may surprise you, but Cyprus has mountains!

The Troodos Mountains in the center of the island of Cyprus features a peak of close to 2,000 meters / 6,400 feet at Mount Olympus. Not only does this mean skiing in the winter (yes, Cyprus has ski resorts), but it also means some terrific Troodos Mountains hiking trails.

We opted for the Atalante Trail Loop as it did a circle around Mount Olympus and was a bit longer and more difficult than the Artemis Trail (8 km / 5 miles).

When we hiked the Atalante Trail in early January most of the hiking trail was covered in snow, sometimes several inches deep. While the snow made it tricky at times to follow the trail — thankfully a few others had gone before us so we could follow their footsteps and we had our digital tracks/map — it also made our walk beautiful and somewhat magical.

We recommend following the trail clockwise from the trailhead near the parking lot, just as we did. The trail is fairly well marked and the first few kilometers of the Atalante hike take you through some beautiful old forests punctuated by gnarly juniper trees and other local endemic growth.

The vista then begins to open up so you can look west over the hills to the coast. The loop continues around past the ski resort and through more tall pine forests

Note: If you visit Cyprus in winter, be prepared for possible snow in the Troodos Mountains. We knew this in advance and came prepared with layers of jackets, hats, and gloves. We also highly recommend taking hiking poles on this route, no matter what the weather, as some sections are steep and can be slippery.

How to get to the Atalante Hiking Loop trailhead:

The Troodos Mountains are located almost halfway between Nicosia and the coast (Paphos or Limassol). The Atalante trailhead and free parking lot are located right next to Troodos village. We drove there from Nicosia, which takes around 1.5 hours on the fast route or 2 hours on the country roads. After our hike we then drove to Paphos, which took around 1.5 hours. There are also a couple of buses that will take you to the main square in Troodos village from Nicosia or Limassol.

If you want to do several hikes in the Troodos Mountains, you could consider staying in Troodos village or in a nearby town so that you can get an early start on the trails.

Cape Greco Hiking Trail, Sea Caves to Konnos Beach

There are a several different hiking paths around Cape Greco National Forest Park and out to Cape Greco itself. Many paths are quite short and just go to the sea caves, up to the Cape Greco Viewpoint or to visit the picturesque Ayioi Anargyroi Chapel. We wanted something a bit longer and more continuous to stretch our legs and see more of the natural landscape along Cyprus’ eastern coast near Ayia Napa.

Most of the dramatic scenery is in the first 5-6 km / 3 – 4 miles along the coast. The path we took then returns to the trailhead via an inland route.

This Cape Greco hike took us first to the sea caves, a collection of sandstone rock formations that stand in dramatic contrast to the crystal clear turquoise waters below. We then continued along the coastal trail past the hilltop with a view over the entire cape.

You can opt to take one of the hiking trails up to the viewpoint, but we continued east along the coast. The landscape changed frequently, from dry, rocky desert-like conditions to fields of green and blossoming flowers.

The trail then continues along the coast past the blue lagoon and the natural rock bridge to Ayioi Anargyroi Chapel. Take the stairs to a sea cave that you can scramble into. (Be sure to time your entrance and exit so that you and your camera are not soaked by crashing waves.)

We continued to Konnos Beach where we doffed our shoes and walked across the white sand beach. If we had had our bathing suits with us, we would have gone in — it was just warm enough even in winter. We returned via the hiking trail following the road.

How to get to the Cape Greco Sea Caves trailhead:

We drove from Larnaca (around one hour) and parked near the sea caves at the marker indicated on the map above. You can also park closer to the sea caves. There's plenty of space to park there.

As for public transportation, you can catch bus 101 from Agia Napa waterpark to the sea caves or the Cape Greco National Forest Park entrance.

Hiking in Cyprus: What to Pack

Because the hiking trails in Cyprus we recommend here are day hikes that take only a few hours, you really don’t need to bring much with you. Just be sure to carry clothing layers to protect from the elements — sun, rain or maybe snow. Always be sure to carry plenty of drinking water with you.

You can also find a full list of our favorite hiking gear and essentials.

• Hiking Daypack: We shared one hiking daypack between the two of us. This was more than enough space to carry the essentials for our day hike.
• Hiking Shoes: We saw some people hiking in sandals or sneakers. While that works for some of the easier hikes, we recommend wearing hiking shoes to provide your feet with support and traction for climbing over boulders and steep inclines and descents.
• Hiking Poles: For lighter hikes, we typically share one set of trekking poles between the two of us (i.e., we each use one pole). We were especially thankful we had these on the Avakas Gorge Hike and Atalante Loop Trails. We recommend this foldable traveler set of hiking poles as they are easy and light to carry.
• Drinking water and snacks: Many of these Cyprus hiking trails are far away from shops and services, so be sure to bring your own water and snacks with you on your hike. Temperatures can get very warm, especially in the summer, so make sure you bring LOTS of water with you to avoid dehydration. One of the unfortunate things in Cyprus is that tap water is not potable (all the locals we met advised against drinking it) so bring a water bottle that also purifies or buy large (e.g., 5-10+ liter) containers of water and refill your own reusable water bottle.
• Sun protection: Even in the winter, the sun can be strong in Cyprus. Be sure to carry plenty of sun protection with you in the form of sunscreen (the highest SPF you can find), hat, and sun glasses.

Best Time to go Hiking in Cyprus

We hiked Cyprus in winter, over the New Year’s holidays, from the end of December to the beginning of January. We thought it was a great time to go hiking as the weather along the coast was beautiful most of the time with highs in the mid to high 60s F / 18-22 C. The added bonus of this time of year: we also experienced fresh snowfall in the Troodos Mountains.

In addition, there weren’t many people on the hiking trails at this time of year. However, Cyprus winter weather can be very changeable — including rain — so be sure to stay tuned to weather forecasts and remain flexible when planning and taking your hikes.

Several local people we spoke to said that spring (March-early May) offers great hiking weather since it’s precedes the hot summer season and offers the chance to see wildflowers blossoming along many of the hiking trails. A few others recommended November since temperatures have cooled off from the warm summer and early autumn, but the winter rains have not yet arrived.

Summer is the most popular time in general to visit Cyprus, especially for the beaches. However, we’ve heard that summer (June-September) is not the best time for hiking in Cyprus given the high temperatures (90+ F/30+ C) and intense sun.

If you hike Cyprus in the summer months, be careful to avoid heat exhaustion and overexposure from the sun, particularly in the wide open areas along trails. Carry LOTS of water with you.

Planning a Hiking Focused Cyprus Trip: Our One Week Travel Itinerary

When we assembled our one-week Cyprus travel itinerary, we focused mainly on finding the best hikes in Cyprus and used those as our anchors. We then figured out a general route to travel around the island, noting places we could stay and base ourselves along the way (see below).

We also watched the weather at all times as it changed frequently. Since we traveled in Cyprus during the low season and had a rental car, we were able to remain flexible and book accommodation pretty last minute.

Here is our final Cyprus travel itinerary for one week that included four day hikes, a 2-day stop in Nicosia (where it rained) and visits to archeological sites.

• Nicosia remains a divided capital city, with the southern side of the city as part of the Republic of Cyprus and the northern side of the city as part of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. The United Nations Green Zone, a buffer zone, divides the two sides. There is an official border crossing which is very easy to cross at the moment.
• Wander the streets in the Nicosia's old town (southern side of the city). We did a variation of this self-guided walking tour, but in reverse order. For more recommendations, check out this Nicosia travel guide by our friend Steve and try to get your hands on the Use It Nicosia map/guide as it's got lots of great restaurant and cafe recommendations, as well as historical, cultural and other info presented in a fun and light way.
• We highly recommend a visit to the Cyprus Museum (free entrance at the time of writing). This small but jam-packed archeological museum is filled with well-interpreted antiquities going back almost 10,000 years. The museum does a remarkable job illustrating Cyprus’ long history and civilizational influences over the millennia.

• Cross the border to the northern side of the city (Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus). As of January 2022, you need proof of a negative PCR test (less than 7 days old) and full vaccination to cross into the Turkish side.
• Follow the blue line that takes you past most of the major sites on this side (mosques, markets, caravanserai, etc.). Once in the northern side of Cyprus, you'll notice that the currency and language both change to Turkish. Despite this, you'll likely get along fine with your Euros and English, and even your credit cards in some restaurants and businesses.

• The Troodos Mountains are between Nicosia and Paphos on the coast. Stopping off in Troodos for a hike like the Atalante Trail is a great way to break up the drive and get a feel for Cyprus' mountains and the geological diversity at the center of the island.
• Where to stay in Paphos: We stayed in a convenient studio apartment a short walk to the sea, archeological sites, restaurants and shops.

Note: There is also an airport in Paphos in case that offers more convenience for your Cyprus itinerary.

Renting a car in Cyprus

We really appreciated having a rental car on Cyprus. It gave us a lot of flexibility. which proved especially helpful because of the changing weather. A rental car also allowed us greater spontaneity to stop off in different places along the way. During the time of our visit, rental car prices were very reasonable (e.g., around $20 USD a day including insurance). And since the island isn’t very big, we didn’t spend a lot of money on petrol.

All of the hiking trails above featured free parking lots and most of the places we stayed in Cyprus also had free public or inexpensive private parking lots.

Driving in Cyprus is on the left-hand side of the road. If you’ve never experienced this, note that it takes some practice and getting used to.

Podcast about Hiking in Cyprus and Our Itinerary

If you prefer an audio version of all this, you can listen to our interview about our travels in Cyprus on the Amateur Traveler Podcast. We talk about all the details of our one-week itinerary and all of the Cyprus hikes we recommend in this article.

If you've only thought of Cyprus as a beach getaway or resort destination, we hope this Cyprus hiking guide has provided a different perspective on the island as a hiking destination. From the coastlines and cliffs to the gnarly, old juniper forests and mountain vistas, Cyprus offers a lot of hiking trails and options, making it a pleasant, worthwhile and surprising Mediterranean hiking getaway destination.

The post Hiking in Cyprus: Best Hiking Trails and Travel Itinerary appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Our list of favorite Berlin cheap eats under €5 is easy on your budget and includes high-quality, flavorful and hearty meals. These include Middle Eastern, Turkish, German, Italian and Asian dishes from a variety of different neighborhoods. So as you explore where to eat in Berlin, you get a sense of the city's diversity in addition to getting to know the local food scene.

During our time in Berlin we've lived in Kreuzberg and in Neukölln neighborhoods, smack in middle of what our visiting friends deemed “little Turkey.” Food was fresh, accessible, brimming with flavor and typically served by folks who took pride in their cuisine, interest in us as human beings, and great pleasure in serving up an experience.

For more of our Berlin foodie recommendations check out our favorite neighborhood meals under €10 and Stil In Berlin is also good for food and restaurant recommendations

Update July 2022: This article was first published in October 2010 and updated in August 2020 and July 2022 with updates to restaurants, dishes and prices (yes, inflation has had an impact recently), as well as recommended Berlin city tours and places to stay to explore the city even more.

Our Favorite 10 Cheap Eats in Berlin

1. Azzam Restaurant: Delicious Middle Eastern Food

We discovered this simple self-service Labanese-style (although owned by a Palestinian) restaurant by riding our bikes past it repeatedly and noticing it was always full of people, no matter what time of day. We thought: there must be good reason for those crowds. There was.

Azzam quickly became a favorite eating spot of ours in Berlin, one that we love taking friends to and sharing a bunch of different dishes together so we can all enjoy different tastes. Everyone always comes away with some variation of: “that food was delicious, and I can’t believe how inexpensive it was.” No doubt some of the highest quality food for the money in the city. Two people can easily stuff themselves with delicious treats for under €5.

What to eat: The falafel and halloumi cheese plate (now €6.50) is a classic that everyone loves (we think Azzam has some of the best falafel in the city). Musabaha (an addictive warm whole chickpea dip) or hummus bowl for around €5. Manakeesh flatbread covered in za’atar (a spice blend including thyme and sesame seeds) or cheese with a subtle fragrance of nutmeg. Fatteh is the ultimate comfort food at around €6.50. Everything comes with a boat of fresh vegetables, olives, and herbs plus a bag of pita bread.

Azzam can get busy around meal times so consider visiting during an off-time or if you come during prime hours just enjoy the buzz of the place and a cup of tea for free from their samovar.

2. Mustafa's: Gemüse (Vegetable) Kebab

You’ll know you’re close when you spot the long line snaking down the street on Mehringdamm. This is not your typical Berlin kebab. Instead of meat, a spindle of chicken and roasted vegetables is carved up and served with a fabulous mélange of potatoes, sweet potatoes, salad, a feta-type cheese and sauce. If you’re vegetarian, you can also go for the pure veg option. We usually opted for the durum (flat bread) döner with chicken for around €5 which is hearty enough feeds the two of us.

Mustafa is a food stand, meaning that it doesn’t have any seating of its own so you’ll need to grab your kebab and eat it on the street. Given the popularity of Mustafa’s it’s worth planning your visit during off-hours to avoid the long line.

Address: Mustafa's Gemüse Kebab, Mehringdamm 32 (Kreuzberg)

3. Han West: Get Your Dumpling and Bao Fix

We're spoiled as Han West's Neukölln location is just around the corner from us so it's our go-to place when we're craving dumplings or baos. You can get a filling bao (steamed bun) stuffed with tofu, shiitake mushroom or pork belly for €4.50. Vegetarian, vegan or meat-filled dumplings are around €6 for eight with a choice of sauce. And if you're really hungry order a box that includes dumplings, bao and fries or salad (€10.50). Pick up a craft beer from Neulich brewery next door (Neukölln location) and it's a perfect combination.

What to eat: Tofu or pork belly bao (€4.50), halloumi lemongrass or Thai chicken and herb dumplings (€6.00).

Address: Han West, Selchowerstr. 20, Neukölln + Görlitzerstr. 69, Kreuzberg + Burgsdorfstr. 9, Wedding

4. Gel Gör Inegöl Köfteci: Köfte Sandwiches & Turkish Food

Köfte usually means herbed minced lamb meatballs, but Gel Gör does it with a twist by using veal instead. And the result is astronomically good. They charcoal grill the meat just tender; the aroma and taste are both unforgettable. Next up, the bread: perfectly fresh, soft, then (blow my mind) dabbed and toasted on the charcoal grill. The whole thing is topped with salad greens, red onions, arugula (rucola) and mint.

Sauces are also standout: spicy red pepper sauce, garlic yogurt, and a yellow herb sauce. Go for all three. Have them top the whole thing with a dash of sumac and some red pepper flakes (for spice lovers) and your taste buds will go insane.

I'm told the proper way to down a Gel Gör köfte baguette is to drink it with ayran (drinkable Turkish yogurt). However, Gel Gör offers a formidable beer selection featuring prices only a few dimes over prices at a bottle shop.

What to eat: Köfte baguette (€5.00-€7.00). Meatatarians take the plunge with the köfte plate.

Address: Gel Gör Inegöl Köfteci, Kottbusser Damm 80 (Neukölln). Open 24 hours.

5. Tadim Lahmacun: Turkish Pizzas and Other Specialties

Lahmacun (Turkish pizza) at its best. A friend who visited likened lahmacun to the Turkish version of a burrito. But it's much more than that. Lahmacun is a rolled, thin flatbread dough topped with an herbed ground meat and baked until crispy. Ask the guys to top it with salad (tomato, flat parsley, onion, lettuce), some hot or yogurt sauce and a bit of sumac, a squeeze of lemon; they roll it up a la burrito. You can also try it with döner meat inside, but we are fans of the lahmacun alone.

Call us purists. Turkish pizza purists.

What to eat: Lahmacun (Turkish pizza) with salad (2.50€) or salad and sauce (3.00€).

Address: Tadim Lahmacun, Adalbertstrasse 98, Kreuzberg.

6. Thai Park: Where to Find Authentic Thai Food in Berlin

Thai Park takes over Preußenpark in Schöneberg every Friday to Sunday with food stalls serving Thai street food and everything you might be missing from your last trip to Thailand. It feels a bit like being transported to Bangkok for the afternoon as all of the vendors are Thai so you are surrounded by the smells, flavors and sounds of Thailand.

Take your time to walk through the different street food stalls and choose your favorite dishes (usually €3 – €6) — Pad Thai, a Thai curry, pad kra pao gai, papaya or seafood salad, spring or summer roles, soup, dumplings or mango and sticky rice. Then, enjoy eating some of the best and most authentic Thai food in Berlin in the park in fresh air on a picnic blanket. Doesn't get much better than this for food and atmosphere.

What to eat: It's hard to go wrong here, but our favorite dishes include chicken larb, seafood salad, pad kra pao gai (chicken with Thai basil and chili), and pad see ew (wide rice noodles).
Address: Thai Park (Friday – Sunday, April to October), Preußenpark near Fehrbelliner Platz (also an U-Bahn station), Schöneberg

7. Pazzi X Pizza: Authentic Italian Pizza

Finding cheap pizza by the slice in Berlin is easy. However, finding really good, high quality pizza by the slice in Berlin is rare. That's where Pazzi X Pizza just a few blocks away form Tempelhofer Feld in Neukölln comes in. Its authentic Italian thin crust pizzas (the owners are from southern Italy) with high quality Italian toppings will please the pickiest of pizza snobs (I count myself as part of that group). The standard piece (bigger than a regular pizza slice) costs €2.50-€3.00, depending upon the toppings. One is usually enough, but if you're really hungry then get two.

What to eat: Some of our favorite pizzas include cime di rapa (Italian greens) with salsiccia (Italian sausage with fennel), cherry tomatoes with ricotta cheese and rucola, roasted eggplant, and prosciutto with ricotta . The classic margarita (tomato sauce with mozzarella) is always a good bet.

Address: Pazzi X Pizza, Herrfurthstr. 8 (Neukölln)

8. Maroush: Lebanese Food

Tasty, accessible Lebanese food. Excellent falafel sandwiches stuffed with freshly fried falafel balls, salad and a surprisingly hefty dose of tahini (sesame sauce). Chicken shawarma sandwiches are chock-full of chicken and feature a tuck of French fries. Sounds odd, but the combo works oh so well. The final touch on both sandwiches: the stuffed pita is “sealed” in a sandwich press.

Open late and usually packed.

What to eat: Chicken shawarma or falafel sandwich (€5)
Address: Maroush, Adalbertstrasse 98, Kreuzberg.

There is always a large selection of different red sauce or white pizza options, all with high quality Italian toppings. This changes all the time so you'll always find something new. You can either eat there with tables inside and outside. Or, take your slices with you to eat as a picnic at Tempelhofer Feld.

9a. Tekbir Döner: Best Döner Kebab, Part 1

Like all good things, by word of mouth, friend of a friend. A tip from an Indian guy in Kreuzberg who had himself been tipped off by a Turkish neighbor. This is how all great döner scavenger hunts begin.

Although the meat on the spindle may look sketchy: rougher, darker than other döner huts, don't fear. Tekbir's meat spindle is stacked with cut veal instead of processed or pressed lamb döner meat. As a result, the texture is very much real meat, like cut steak in a steak-and-cheese. And the taste is the stuff of beautiful, sweet mystery. Maybe some allspice, cinnamon or nutmeg. In any case, it's elegant. The yogurt sauce is tart, as if it's straight ayran, rather than sweetened yogurt or mayonnaise you might find lurking elsewhere.

The whole package is rolled in a Turkish style lavash-like flatbread called a durum.

Best of all, Tekbir is the real deal, real neighborhood, and everyone working and eating there is extraordinarily friendly. They served us free Turkish tea during each visit. It doesn't get much better than that.

What to eat: Durum döner, 4.50€.
Address: Tekbir Döner, Skalitzer Straße 23, Kreuzberg

9b. Doyum Grillhaus Döner: Best Döner Kebab, Part 2

It's always a good sign when a Turkish restaurant is packed with Turkish people round-the-clock. We ordered a simple durum döner where the meat (lamb) is spot on, piled plentifully and topped with lots of fresh salad. Great sauce with a roasted chili taste. The adana kebab (pictured above) looked pretty nice, too. Next time.

Although we opted for a quick kebab to go, this is a proper Turkish restaurant with a delicious looking menu and full seated area.

What to eat: Durum döner (4.50€).
Address: Doyum Grillhaus, Admiralstraße 37-38, Kreuzberg

10. Requisite Berlin Currywurst

Do I think currywurst is the highest quality food going in Berlin? Um, no. But I know it's in the hearts and on the minds of just about everyone visiting. So, here's my take.

The “best currywurst” argument is a storm in a teacup, but if sausage served with a dusting of curry powder and ketchup sounds like your thing, then it's time for currywurst. In truth and fairness, my best memories of currywurst date back to the early 2000s and in particular, a rain-soaked R.E.M. concert in 2004. But those days — and eating currywurst at every stop from Zoologischer Garten to Nollendorfplatz — are long since over.

These days, the “best currywurst” battle rages between two places: Curry 36 and Konnopke Imbiss. Although I favor Curry 36's marginal generosity with their curry powder and their fries (with a dusting of red pepper powder), I appreciate the less firm sausage link from Konnopke Imbiss.

But like I said above: storm in a teacup.

What to eat: At Curry 36: two currywurst and French fries (4.50€). At Konnopke Imbiss: currywurst and French fries (5.00€).
Address: Curry 36, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg. (If you are a group and want to smorgasbord it, get a gemüse kebab from Mustafa's listed above). Konnopke Imbiss, Schönhauser Allee 44A, Prenzlauer Berg.

Honorable Mention: Türkenmarkt at Maybachufer

It's no wonder that food in Berlin is so good, fresh and tasty. The produce coursing through all its markets is impressive. For a glimpse and taste, check out the Turkish outdoor market (Türkenmarkt) along Maybachufer and the canal in Kreuzberg. It's open Tuesday and Friday afternoons from 12:00-6:30.

Just about everything is sold here, even open-air haircuts. In the food department: fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, spices, olives, nuts, cheese and an array of Turkish breads. And for a walk-away comfort food snack, try the gözleme from Chez Su (right side, on the way towards Neukölln) for around €2.

Berlin Day Tours and Other Things to Do

Having lived in Berlin for almost ten years with dozens of visitors during that time, we’ve done quite a few city tours that explore Berlin by foot, bike and water (boat/kayak) that we’ve enjoyed. Each perspective and tour focus — whether it’s street art, history, alternative culture, or the local food scene — provides a little more understanding of this complex, complicated and ever-changing city we love.

If you have limited time in Berlin and want to sure you have a secured spot in a tour, we can recommend using our partners, Get Your Guide and Viator, for booking Berlin tours. They offer many different types of Berlin tours and day trips with no booking fees and free cancellation up to 24 hours before.

Here are a few tours and experiences we recommend if you visit Berlin. (Note: Some of the links below are affiliate links where the price stays the same to you, but we earn a small commission if you book something.)

• Half-Day Berlin Walking Tour: One of the ways we often orient ourselves when we arrive in a new city is by taking a walking tour. This provides us a background on the history and culture of the place, an overview of the main historical sights, and ideas on where we want to continue our exploration. We find that the walking tour guides often have great food and restaurant recommendations, too. If a half-day sounds a bit long, here's a shorter Berlin walking tour that focuses on the historical sites and World War II history around Brandenburg Gate. If you are curious about Berlin's Cold War history, consider this East Berlin walking tour (3 hours) that focuses on what it was like living in a divided city that includes visit to the East Side Gallery and Berlin Wall.
• Alternative Berlin and Street Walking Tour (4 hours): This walking tour that explores Berlin's alternative side with a focus on street art and counterculture history has been a favorite with our visiting family and friends. We've done a similar Berlin street art walking tour (3 hours) with this same company that we really liked. The guide is usually a street artist so you get an inside perspective. It makes you really appreciate the different layers and meaning behind the street art you'll see as you explore Berlin.
• Explore Berlin by boat: Many people don't realize that Berlin is a city on water with more bridges than Venice, Italy. The Spree River run through the city with many canals going into the different neighborhoods (built and used originally to transport goods throughout the city). So, one of the best ways to see and experience Berlin is on a boat, whether it's a quick one-hour boat ride through the main sites in the center or a longer half-day boat trip that goes from the center of town and the famous Museum Island to Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg with its many bridges.
• Explore Berlin by bicycle: Given the vast size of Berlin and the city's bike lane infrastructure, a bike tour is a fun way to see a lot of different places and travel like a Berliner…by bike. We really enjoyed and learned a lot on this Berlin Wall Bike Tour (3.5 hours) that takes you through different places along the Berlin Wall and also tells the story of how and why it was built, what life was like in a divided city (usually the tour guides are from Berlin and can share their own experience), how people tried to escape, and the unexpected story of how the wall fell on 9 November, 1989. Another fun area to explore on bike are the neighborhoods of Kreuzberg and Fredrichshain with their street art, alternative culture, East Side Gallery, Spree River and more.
• Explore Berlin by kayak: The calm of Berlin's canals and Spree River make the city a great place to kayak through to see some of the main sites and neighborhoods. We've rented kayaks several times over the years (and also own a small inflatable boat) and can recommend kayaking along the Landwehr Canal in Kreuzberg and also into the former East Berlin. Another fun water option is this 1.5-hour stand-up paddle board tour that goes along the Spree River towards Treptower Park and Insel der Jugund.
• Food tours in Berlin: As you might have guessed from this article, Berlin has a diverse and international food scene. So, a neighborhood food tour is a way to sample different dishes and also learn the history and culture of that kiez (Berlin-speak for neighborhood). One of our favorite neighborhoods to eat in is Kreuzberg with its great Turkish restaurants and multi-cultural feel. Alternatively, take a food tour in Mitte to see how this former East Berlin neighborhood has transformed over the years.
• Other unusual Berlin tours: One of the things that visitors to Berlin sometimes miss are the great courtyards or backyards in traditional buildings and complexes. Many of these date back to the early 20th century when Berlin was an industrial city and so factories were located at the back of courtyards and workers lived in the front. Many of these beautiful (often) brick courtyard complexes have survived, but you need to know where to look for them. That's where this Berlin Courtyard Walking Tour in Mitte can help. Another unusual tour in Berlin we really enjoyed was this underground bunker and subway experience.

Where to Stay in Berlin

There is certainly no shortage of accommodation options in Berlin, whether a hotel, hostel or your own apartment rental. It can sometimes be a bit overwhelming to choose where to stay based on the diversity of Berlin's neighborhoods and size, plus your interests and budget.

One of the things that gives Berlin its unique feel is that each neighborhood is a bit different, so we recommend friends and family to stay in neighborhood back streets if they can. They provide a more local feel with more non-touristy cafes, restaurants, bars and shops.

Here are a few recommended accommodation options in some of our favorite Berlin neighborhoods of Kreuzberg-Friedrichshain, Neukölln, and Mitte.

• Weinmeister Hotel in Mitte: Located in the heart of Mitte near Hackescher Markt and not far from Alexanderplatz, this design hotel is in a great location and has a beautiful rooftop terrace for meals and drinks. Several friends and work colleagues have stayed here and recommend it. Note: this is an adult-only hotel.
• Hüttenpalast in Neukölln: Located in a fun and hip area between Kreuzberg and Neukölln, Hüttenpalast offers both retro-style caravans and cabins, as well as hotel rooms, and a relaxing garden. Friends have enjoyed staying here.
• Nena Apartments in Bergmannkiez, Kreuzberg: If you want your own apartment and kitchen to self-cater, these apartments on a quiet street in the cute Bergmannkiez part of Kreuzberg are a good option. There are also Nena Apartments in Neukölln (Hermannplatz) and in the Moritzplatz area of Kreuzberg.
• Michelberger Hotel in Friedrichshain: Located close to the East Side Gallery (2km of the Berlin Wall that is now an outdoor mural gallery) and Spree River, the Michelberger Hotel has a great lobby and restaurant on the ground floor and unique design rooms of all sizes and prices. Several friends who have stayed here recommend it for the rooms and the location.
• Circus Hostel in Berlin: If you are looking for a hostel or budget accommodation option, several friends have recommended Circus Hostel with both dorm and single/double room options. It's located very close to Rosenthaler Platz in Mitte with lots of local restaurants, cafes and bars in walking distance. The owners have recently opened up Circus Hotel nearby if you aren't into the hostel vibe.

Gluten Free Eating in Berlin (and Germany)

If you have celiac disease or a gluten intolerance there's good and bad news about gluten free eating in Berlin (and Germany in general). On the positive side, awareness about gluten free needs is rising in Berlin so quite a few restaurants offer gluten free alternatives. On the negative side, a lot of food in Berlin, especially street food, includes bread. It's important to always be careful and ask questions.

To help you navigate food in Berlin and Germany so that you can eat local, but also gluten free and with confidence, check out this German Gluten Free Restaurant Card and Gluten Free Guide to Germany created by our friend, Jodi. The restaurant card explains in detail, using local food names and language, your needs as a strictly gluten free eater, including common problems regarding cross contamination, so that you get the meal you want and need. (Bonus: You can use it when you travel in any German speaking country like Austria or Switzerland.)

Jodi has celiac disease herself so she understands first-hand the importance of being able to communicate gluten free needs in detail and educate waiters and restaurants on what this means in practice. She created her series of Gluten Free Restaurant Cards in different languages to help celiac and gluten-free travelers eat local with confidence, and without communication problems or getting sick.

Note: These gluten free restaurant cards are not part of an affiliate plan or a way for us to make money. We are extremely fortunate that we can eat everything, but we've seen the challenges of others who are celiac or have food intolerances where every meal can potentially make them sick. These detailed gluten free cards were created to help prevent that from happening and make eating out fun and enjoyable when traveling.

The post Berlin Cheap Eats: Top 10 Meals Under 5 Euros appeared first on Uncornered Market.

How to pack for the Camino de Santiago so that you are prepared with all the essentials for the Camino, but you still pack light and don't carry a heavy backpack? That is one of the big challenges when preparing and planning for the Camino de Santiago, one where you can waste lots of time and money if you're not careful. Fortunately, our Ultimate Camino Essentials Packing List for women and men helps you figure this all out with a list of essential clothing and gear to bring with you.

Our Camino Essentials Packing List is all based on our own experience of walking almost 1,000 km / 600 miles along the Camino de Santiago. We share specific recommendations on Camino essentials like backpacks, clothing, shoes, foot care, and more. The goal: carry what you need to be comfortable and protect against changing weather, but don't feel like you need to take everything with you on the Camino de Santiago.

Preparing for the Camino de Santiago

The Camino de Santiago in Spain. A beautiful walk of 600 miles/960 km across northern Spain, a memorable journey — one that comes up in conversation over and over again, even years later. Lessons learned, a stack of stories from our six weeks of walking along the Camino del Norte and Camino Primitivo, a metaphor for life.

The greatest bit of preparation you can do to influence your comfort on that journey — so that you can focus on what's around you rather than the weight of your backpack — is to know what essentials to pack for the Camino, and why.

Based on our experience walking the Camino de Santiago — an exceptional one that combined the Caminos del Norte, Primitivo and Frances and Finisterre — we were 95% happy with the packing and gear choices we'd made and learned the other 5% in lessons. In this Camino de Santiago essentials packing guide for men, women and couples, you get the 100% so you can benefit from all our experience.

Just to get this question out of the way: If you are wondering whether to walk the Camino de Santiago, no matter what distance, the short answer: yes, you should.

We’ll cover other planning factors for the Camino de Santiago — choosing a route, when to walk, accommodation options, how to eat amazingly well and cheap, and more — in a series of other articles. Before that, however, one of the essential lessons of the Camino lands when you realize how little gear you need to pack and carry.

Update: This article was originally published on 28 June, 2017 and updated on 20 June 2020 with a downloadable Ultimate Camino Packing List for Women and Men and other gear updates.

This article is long and covers a lot of different topics and types of Camino essentials and gear. Use the Table of Contents above to find the information and section that best suit what you're looking for and your Camino packing needs. If the Camino gear that we originally bought and used is no longer available, we will find and recommend the closest current option.

What You Need for the Camino: Packing Perspective and Philosophy

Having done it ourselves, we realize that researching the Camino de Santiago can be delightful and overwhelming at all at the same time, especially when it comes to how to pack for it. This results in Camino-onset packing and planning paralysis.

There are endless forums and websites dedicated to the topic of planning and packing for the Camino, including an underlying machismo competition for the “right” way to do it.

So, we'll stay away from absolutes here. Below is a snapshot of our packing approach based on our personal experience walking the Camino de Santiago for a total of 960km, about 100km more than we had originally expected.

The beauty of our Camino packing approach, however, was it really didn’t matter how many kilometers or days we walked. We were prepared for just about anything — any weather, distance or length of walking.

Our Camino Packing Philosophy

Pack whatever gear you need to pack. Try to err on the side of “less is more,” but don’t let anyone make you feel bad about your choices.

Sure, you'll make some mistakes — maybe you miss something essential or you overpack. It's not the end of the world, nor your Camino. You'll figure out the right balance in the end.

Desired Weight of Your Camino Backpack

There's endless discussion and competition on what's the “right” weight of a backpack for the Camino. Again, do what makes sense for you and fits your body's needs. For us, we found that carrying around 7-8 kilos/15-18 pounds was a good weight for each of us.

Having a quality backpack that is properly fitted to your body (see below for recommendations) will help tremendously in distributing this weight so you don't have aching shoulders, back or hips.

Keep in mind: pilgrims have been walking the Camino for over 1,200 years without the fancy gear or technology we have today. Think of it this way: anything above the bare essentials of shoes, clothes, walking stick, water, and food is kind of a bonus.

Choosing a Camino de Santiago Route

Many people think that there is ONE Camino de Santiago — one route — and don't realize that there are actually twelve official Caminos. One reason for this misunderstanding is that most people (around 85%) who walk the Camino choose the Camino Francés, but there are many other routes that we'd suggest you look into.

If you're curious about all the different ways to reach Santiago de Compostela, here's a map with all the official Camino routes. (Note: there are endless discussions on the advantages and disadvantages of each route, but we will leave that discussion to the next Camino article.)

For our Camino de Santiago journey, we combined three different Caminos: Camino del Norte from Irun to Oviedo, then the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela and finally the Camino Finisterre to the coast, with an additional walk to Muxia.

We met up with family along the way so about half of the journey was just the two of us, while the other half we were a group of five together with Dan's sister, niece and nephew.

In total, our Camino came in at 960km/600 miles and took around six weeks, including a handful of planned (and unplanned) rest and “exploring Basque food” days (definitely recommend extra days in San Sebastian and Bilbao just to eat Basque food!!). If you're looking for an experience that is filled with stunning coastal and mountain landscapes that will also challenge you physically, then consider this combination of Camino de Santiago routes.

Camino Essentials and Packing Basics

Our journey began mid-April and ended late May so we had to be prepared for unpredictable and potentially rainy weather, especially along the northern coast. The packing approach below should work for whichever Camino route you choose and can be adjusted up or down in terms of layers depending upon the season.

Three Principles for Clothing: Layers, Thin, and Light

As with any walk, hike or trek, layers are key to keeping dry and moderating temperature. Especially if you plan to walk the Camino de Santiago in spring or autumn, you'll want to be prepared for temperature swings and precipitation. If you are walking the Camino in the summer, adjust your packing accordingly as it might be rather warm.

Always look to collapse and roll what you pack, whenever possible. Our clothing might even sound like a lot, but everything we brought usually doubled as something else, could be layered in the cold, and could be compressed. And not everything needs to cost a fortune. (Consider the type of workers gloves Dan carried.)

Especially if you pack cold weather items like a hat, gloves and fleece pullover, think thin and light. Same even goes for warm weather gear. The goal: minimize volume, maximize space. Minimize weight, maximize joy.

Don’t carry camping gear with you on the Camino de Santiago

All different Camino de Santiago routes are set up so that you have affordable accommodation options within reasonable distances so that you don’t need to camp. We did come across a few pilgrims walking the Camino who carried camping gear for emergencies, but we would advise against it.

In fact, one guy we spoke to had only used it once in the four weeks prior to when we met him. If you do insist on bringing camping gear to give yourself additional sleeping options or to save money on accommodation, we suggest you carry a hammock tent. We met one Danish guy who said this was light and worked well for him the few times he used it.

Know you have luggage transport options

If you prefer not to carry everything on your back during the day, there are luggage transport services available along each Camino de Santiago that will pick up your bag in the morning from the albergue and transport it to the next town where you plan to stay. Often, the accommodation where you are staying can provide you with contact information for this or you'll find advertisements posted at albergues along the way.

The cost varies depending upon which Camino route you are walking and how remote you might be, but it usually varies between €3-€10/bag per day.

Remember: you can always buy things in Spain

If you have doubts about whether you really need it, leave it behind with the knowledge that you can most likely buy it in Spain if you do decide you can’t live without it.

There are enough bigger towns and cities that you walk through that would have whatever you need. This goes for clothing, shoes, socks, medical gear, toiletries, and other accessories. Also, if something isn’t working for you or is falling apart then replace it.

We even met someone who bought a whole new backpack along the Camino because the one he borrowed from his girlfriend started falling apart.

Clothing strategy for the Camino: walking and resting clothes

Think of your clothing essentials strategy in two components: a walking “uniform” and resting or sleeping “uniform.”

You only need one or two items in each category. This will make you realize how little you really need to bring in the clothing department. More on how this works in practice below.

Focus on the feet. Ankles and knees, too.

Your Camino packing strategy should absolutely take into consideration the threat of blisters, sore feet, and weak ankles. These are real threats to your enjoyment.

From the very first moment you feel a hot spot, pain or discomfort in your feet during the walk, stop and address the issue. This is not the time to soldier on. Instead, it's time to adjust and address the underlying problem in your feet — be it rubbing, cramping, moisture or all of the above.

Adjust your socks, change them if necessary and use Compeed, duct tape and other methods. If you don't, there's a good chance your feet will take revenge on you and erupt in blisters. Particularly on days where you'll walk a lot of asphalt roads, you should be especially careful. Our packing strategy below addresses this.

If you are certain to have unstable ankles or knees, bring a brace to offer extra support. You can also buy ankle braces and knee braces in pharmacies along the Camino. The moment you begin to feel something, put on the ankle brace and wear it regularly. There is no shame, only foresight. After Dan twisted his ankle a couple of weeks into our Camino, an ankle brace was essential to recovery and comfort.

Doing laundry along the Camino de Santiago

No one is expecting you to smell like daisies or have perfectly pressed clothes along the Camino de Santiago. We did proper laundry (i.e., with a washing machine and dryer) about once every 5-7 days, and then hand-washed in the sink the rest of the time.

A lot of accommodation, especially the municipal and private albergues, do have washing machines and areas where you can wash clothes in a sink and hang them to dry on a line (or over the side of your bed frame). If something doesn’t dry overnight, then tie it to the outside of your backpack to let the early morning sun and breeze do its magic.

Choosing a Backpack for the Camino

If you don’t already have a hiking backpack that you love, take the time to research and test out backpacks before you walk the Camino de Santiago. The fit of the backpack can really make or break you on the trail. Think: blisters on hips, shoulder pain, back pain, etc.

Go to REI (or a similar outdoor store) and try on as many backpacks as you can that are of the size you want (more on that below). Ask the store staff to properly fit the backpack to your back, straps and all. This is especially important if you are tall as not all backpacks are geared towards long backs like yours.

There is no “right” size of backpack to take on the Camino as there are so many factors to consider irrespective of size, including how the pack fits your back. However, as a general rule we’d advise getting something in the 28-40 liter range. Remember: you don’t have to fill all the space even if you do buy a bigger backpack.

What to look for in a Camino backpack:

• Easy-to-get-to-from-the-outside top compartment (otherwise known as the “brain”) so that it’s easy to get access to sunscreen, Leatherman, utensils, tissues, snacks, etc.
• Side/bottom compartments to for easy access to ponchos or other rain gear.
• Convenient walking stick holder.
• Comfortable, wide waist strap.
• Backpack cover included. This not only ensures it’s the right size, but it’s usually connected at the bottom in an easy-to-store place.
• Outside zipper that allows you to easily get to something at the bottom of the pack.
• Place to hold a water bladder or water bottle.

We spent time going to several stores, asking for advice, and trying on multiple backpacks. We highly recommend you do the same. After all of this testing we were really happy with the backpack choices we made.

Recommended Women's Camino Backpack

Deuter ACT Trail Pro 32 SL Backpack: I could not be happier with this backpack. The shoulder and waist strap were specifically designed for women, which worked really well for my build.

The actual bag itself is quite light with all sorts of functionality like a built-in rain cover, water bladder compatibility, wide waist belt for stability, several external compartments for storing rain and other gear, outer zippers that made it easy to get into the brain and main section, walking pole holder, and more.

I was tempted to get the smaller 28-liter backpack as a way to force me to pack super light. However, a person at an outdoor store convinced me to go for the bigger size (32 liters) because the smaller backpack didn’t have the wide waist strap and if I wanted to use the backpack for another trek when I’d need additional warm-weather gear I’d appreciate the extra space. In the end, his advice was spot on as I really appreciated the support of the wide waist strap and I enjoyed having a little extra space to fit in foodstuffs and snacks.

Unfortunately, Deuter doesn't seem to make the 32-liter version of this style of backpack anymore, but they still have other sizes. Buy on REI (22-Liter) | Buy on Amazon (28-Liter) | Buy on Backcountry (34-Liter)

Recommended Men's Camino Backpack

Osprey Packs Exos 38L Backpack: At first Dan wanted a backpack in the 30-32L range, but the smallest size available in the Large frame size made for tall people was 38 liters.

After trying on dozens of packs, Dan realized how much better it feels to carry a backpack that is properly sized to your back. Moral of the story: go for the backpack that fits your back and shoulders best irrespective of the size. Remember, you don’t need to fill it up all the way.

This backpack is light, comfortable, and durable. However, there were a couple of things that could use improvement like the trekking pole storage, outside zipper to the brain was not the most convenient, it could have used more outside compartments, and it could have included a cover. But, in terms of comfort and size this is a great backpack. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI (48-liter) | Buy on Backcountry.com (38-liter)

Camino Packing Accessories

We found the regular-sized packing cubes that we usually use on our trips a bit bulky for the dimensions of our backpack. Instead, we used a combination of:

• Hoboroll Compression Stuff Sack: Dan found the divided sections for the basics – socks, underwear, shirts, etc. — really useful for organizing and finding clothes. Then, you can compress it all to take up less space in your pack and put a plastic bag around it to keep it dry.
• Ziploc Bags (gallon-sized): Simple, low tech and cheap. I used a ziploc bag for my extra day clothes and a separate one for my night clothes. Not only did they keep things protected and dry in case of rain, but I was pleasantly surprised by how much air compressed out when “zipping” them. Also useful for carrying toiletries in case something leaks. Bring extra in case holes emerge.
• Half packing cube: I did use a half packing cube (wrapped in a plastic bag) to organize cold weather and other items that I knew I wouldn't be using daily.
• Mesh laundry bag: Good airy separator and weighs almost nothing.

Camino Clothing Essentials for Women and Men

Remember, you don’t need to get the latest and greatest gear. People have been walking the Camino for hundreds of years before Gore-tex or the newest technologies were invented. Go for what’s comfortable and light.

Note: Our Camino went from mid-April to the end of May so it was still cool in the mornings and evenings, and often had a chance of showers. We often would start the day with several layers on top and then peel them off as the day progressed. If you are walking in the prime time of summer, you probably will need fewer layers and will be more focused on trying to stay cool.

Women's Camino de Santiago Clothing Essentials and Packing List

As mentioned in our Camino essentials and basic principles above, we divided our clothing into daytime (“walking uniform”) and nighttime (“resting uniform”) so that they would stay separate from each other and clean.

Clothes for Walking During the Day (aka, “Walking Uniform”)

The idea of a “walking uniform” is that you don't have to think in the morning about what to wear: it's always the same. Here is my packing list of Camino essential clothing for walking during the day.

Clothes for Evening and Sleeping (aka, “Resting Uniform”)

The idea with the resting uniform is that these clothes are soft, comfortable and easy to relax in after a long day of walking. They are also relatively clean-smelling and clean in comparison to the walking uniform clothes you've been in all day so they are nice to get into after a hot shower.

Camino Outerwear: Jackets and Waterproof Gear

Your outwear strategy for the Camino might change based on the time of year you walk the Camino and expected cold weather, rain or wind. However, we always appreciate having outwear options with to protect against rain and cold than not.

Even if you think you won't need waterproof gear based on the time of year, considering carrying it anyway as you never know what the weather gods will deliver.

What I brought with me that I didn’t use:

I had received these recommendations on other Camino packing lists and brought them with me, but I didn't end up using them once.

• Sarong: I had read somewhere that this could double as a skirt, blanket, picnic cover, etc. But, I never needed it for any of those purposes.
• Simple knit skirt to go over the leggings. Call me uncouth, but I just found it more comfortable and easier to walk around in just the leggings.

What I wish I had brought with me on the Camino de Santiago:

Another pair of light trousers to wear in the evenings as I would have been more comfortable (and warmer) walking around villages and towns at night. There were times when my leggings didn't stand up well to the cold.

Men's Camino de Santiago Clothing Packing List

Clothes for Walking During the Day (aka, “Walking Uniform”)

• 1 pair trekking pants: Dan wore these trekking pants 95% of the time on the Camino. Pockets also very useful for smartphone, wallet, maps, etc.
• 2 short-sleeved quick dry shirts
• 1 long-sleeved quick dry shirt: This functioned as a warm outer layer, in place of a fleece.
• 1 pair of shorts: Alternatively, take a pair of ultra lightweight zip-off trekking pants. These will double as a backup pair of pants and your shorts when needed.
• 2 pairs hiking socks: His favorites were compression socks he bought at an outdoor store in Bilbao.
• Sock liners : Prevents rubbing and provides additional cushion. Super thin low-cut running socks do the trick.
• 3 pairs quick-dry underwear: These boxer-briefs from REI are perfect.

Clothes for Evening and Sleeping (aka, Resting “Uniform”)

• 1 long-sleeved button down travel shirt
• Light travel pants: To walk around town at night.
• Pajama/Karate pants: For sleeping.
• Base layer bottoms: Just in case it gets cold. This Patagonia Capilene bottom layer has lasted him over ten years.
• T-shirt: Cotton or 50/50 blend, comfortable for sleeping.
• 1 pair of socks

Outerwear:

• Fleece pullover: For when it cools down at night.
• Water resistant rain jacket in a bag: For when the rain isn't quite strong enough to pull out the big poncho.
• Waterproof poncho: Be sure to get a poncho that covers your backpack and most of legs, too.
• Waterproof pants: Simple, thin waterproof cycling pants will do.
• Gloves: Thin, lightweight gardening/hardware gloves were fine.
• Ski hat: In case it gets cold.
• Collapsible/rollable sun hat and sunglasses: Protects your face and eyes from that strong sun.

What I brought with me that I didn’t use:

A North Face thin winter shell jacket that was only used a handful of times. I could have easily done without it and enjoyed the extra space or weight.

Camino de Santiago Shoes

Every foot is different, meaning that there is no one “right” type of hiking shoe for walking the Camino. We met people who raved about their shoe choices on the opposite side of the spectrum, from heavy ankle-support hiking boots to sandals. Even if you are using hiking shoes that are well worn in, be prepared that you may experience blisters like never before in your life…as happened to Dan.

We each carried a pair of hiking shoes that we used during the day and then river sandals that we used at night to give our feet a break.

Recommended Women's Shoes for the Camino

Hiking Shoes: Usually I usually hike with low hiking shoes, but for the Camino I ended up taking this pair of light hiking boots with moderate ankle support. I was really happy with these shoes and my feet seemed to suffer the least in our group. Note: I currently use these Oboz light hiking shoes and really like them as well.

Teva river sandals: To walk around town at night when you want to give your feet a break from hiking boots. Also handy for communal bathrooms and showers at albergues.

Recommended Men's Shoes for the Camino

Vasque Low Hiking Shoes: Dan has owned several pairs of these hiking shoes and have walked hundreds of miles in them without any problem. However, on the Camino his feet and ankles exploded in blisters about a week into the walk, something that has never happened before. This is not entirely the fault of the shoes, of course, but he might choose better ankle support next time. Note: Dan switched over to Oboz low hiking shoes since then and finds them light, but with lots of support.

Teva river sandals: In addition to using these Tevas to walk around town at night and albergue bathrooms, these sandals came in handy when his feet were covered in blisters and needed a break from enclosed shoes on the trail.

Waterproofing Your Hiking Shoes

We did several rounds of waterproofing on our hiking shoes at home before starting the Camino using NikWax footwear waterproofing. Fortunately, we didn't need to test this much along the way. You can do this to help make your backpack more water repellent.

Sleeping Gear for the Camino

We stayed in a combination of municipal and private Albergues (shared dormitories), plus we also used pensions, hotels and agritourismos (more on your accommodation options along the Camino in another article). If you plan to stay in an albergue or hostel with dorm rooms, be sure you have the following with you.

Silicone Earplugs

The snoring you'll hear on the Camino will blow your mind. You'll wonder how the person is alive the coming morning, only to find out they had a terrific night's sleep, are out the door before 6AM and everyone else in the place is miserably sleep-deprived.

Can we strenuously suggest silicone earplugs? Recently, we switched to these silicone earplugs for the Camino de Santiago and have never looked back.

Whether you are sleeping in a crowded albergue or in a hotel on a loud city street, these earplugs create some peace in the midst of a dormitory snorefest or urban noise storm. A good night's sleep is so worth the tiny expense and effort of carrying earplugs.

Eye Mask

A lightweight eye mask can also be essential, not so much for the morning light (that will help get you going), but the for the errant headlamp accidentally zeroed in on your forehead by your bunkmate.

Sleep Sack

Most albergues will give you either a regular sheet or a sort of thin, gauze “sheet” to put over the mattress and pillow as a sort of sanitation layer. If it’s cold, many places will also provide blankets.

The simple, lightweight sleep sack serves as your sheet and keeps a clean layer between you and the mattress and you and the blanket (as it’s unclear when many were last cleaned). Definitely worth its weight.

Quick-Dry Towel

For use in albergue bathrooms as towels are typically not provided. It's typical to shower at night, so your towel will air-dry overnight. If it remains damp in the morning, tie it to the outside of your backpack to dry in the sunshine or breeze. Go for either a medium or large quick-dry towel.

Sleeping bag: to take or not to take?

We didn’t carry a sleeping bag, and didn’t regret this decision as we felt sufficiently warm at night with our sleep sacks combined with blankets and/or other layers. We did see others with sleeping bags who were also happy with their decision.

If you are going to walk the Camino in the early spring or late fall then you may want to bring a lightweight sleeping bag with you for warmth.

Sleeping mat: to take or not to take?

We did not take a sleeping mat and never needed one. We’ve been told, however, that it can be a useful thing to bring with you if you are walking the Camino Francés during high season and there’s a chance you may need to sleep on the floor at busy albergues.

Camino Essential Toiletries

As we were two people walking together we were able to divide up the following toiletries into two backpacks, but the list unfortunately stays the same if you are only one person.

Staying Healthy Along the Camino de Santiago

Even if you have taken long treks before, like we had, you may find your body — especially your feet — doing things that they've never done before. This is perfectly normal. Feet explode in blisters, ankles twist, bones ache.

If you find yourself in one of these situations, get thee to a pharmacy immediately. This is not the time to “push through the pain” or be cheap with creams and treatments.

Pharmacies and pharmacists in Spain are wonderful. I don’t know if that’s everywhere in the country, but we found it to be true along the Camino. The pharmacists are almost like doctors in their knowledge and approach to recommending treatments and products.

They are so used to seeing every kind of foot and ankle ailment that they seem to know exactly what you need the moment you enter. Many speak some English, so don’t despair if you don’t speak much Spanish.

READ MORE: Travel Health Tips from 10+ Years Traveling the World

Suggested Camino Medical Kit and Foot Care

Health Tip: A glass of Lemon Water in the Morning and Night. Get in the habit of drinking each morning when you first wake up and in the evening after dinner a big glass (or bottle) of water with a half a lemon squeezed into it. This simple concoction helps hydrate, aids digestion, and just feels cleansing for the body. It's easy to pick up lemons along the way at grocery stores or markets. You can thank us later.

Other Camino de Santiago Essential Gear

Other items that we recommend carrying with you to make life along the Camino and in albergues a little more enjoyable. You'll notice that a lot of this is connected to food — to make picnics or have impromptu meals along the way –as eating well is important to us.

• Walking Stick (travel friendly): We found one walking stick or pole each to be enough (vs. two sticks each). Good for going up or down steep hills. Also essential in taking weight off blistered feed or turned ankles while walking. When we didn't need the poles we packed them up and hung them on the backpacks.
• Backpack rain cover: If your backpack doesn't have a rain cover already attached to it (like my Deuter backpack), be sure to buy one that fits the size of your bag.
• Refillable Water Bottle: Always try to have a liter or more of water with you along the Camino since sometimes there can be long stretches between clean water sources. Alternatively, you can carry a water bladder that tucks into the back of your backpack. Or both, like I did.
• Headlamp: Necessary for navigating albergue dorm rooms and bathrooms at night when lights are turned out. One set of high quality batteries can probably last the entire Camino.
• Leatherman: Or, another similar multi-tool that has a knife and bottle opener. We used ours all the time for cutting cheese, sausage, vegetables, fruit or cakes for picnics.
• Camping Silverware: We carried two sets of camping silverware, but a spork would also probably work just as well.
• Travel corkscrew: Yes, you can see where our priorities lie.
• Clothesline: Light and easy to carry, but we found ourselves only using this once as most albergues had drying racks or clotheslines. Or, we would hang clothing over the side of our bed frame to dry overnight.
• Carabiners: We each carried a couple of these Carabiners with a screw lock and found them useful for securing items to the outside of the backpack (e.g., water bottle, bag, etc.).
• Ziploc and plastic bags: Used to cover clothes and other items inside the backpack in case of leakage or rain.
• Small notebook and pen: Sometimes it's nice to physically write down your thoughts, feelings or experiences. A small moleskin type notebook and pen fit well in the top section of the backpack, making it easy to find when the inspiration struck.

Snacks and Food

If you've been reading our blog you'll know that food is important part of our travels. And the Camino was no exception; we ate extremely well (more on that in a separate Camino food article).

We made deliberate decisions as to when to take a long lunch in a restaurant, usually with a budget-priced 3-course menu del dia (daily menu), and when to carry food with us for a quick lunch picnic.

Walking 15-30km each day means you will need to keep yourself well-fueled, especially in the protein department. We tried to keep on us at all times some sort of nuts (almonds were our favorite), granola bars, or fruit.

Additionally, we would often stop in at local shops to pick up cheese, salami, smoked meats or other local specialties to serve either as snacks or picnic food along the way.

The joy of olive oil along the Camino: It may sound crazy to carry a small plastic bottle of olive oil with you on the Camino, but we can attest that the additional flavor and eating enjoyment from it is worth the weight. Olive oil makes boring picnic jamon and cheese sandwiches come to life, not to mention the simple joy of fresh greens (aka, salad in a bag) drenched in quality olive oil after several meat and carb-heavy meals. So worth the additional weight.

Electronic Gear and Wifi on the Camino

DSLR Camera: To Take or Not to Take on the Camino?

We chose not to take our standard DSLR camera and lenses kit with us on the Camino due to weight and bulk. Instead, we used the cameras on our iPhones for all our photography. There were a few times that we missed not having the big camera, but this was outweighed greatly by the freedom to not have to carry all that heavy gear.

However, we saw many people along the Camino with DSLR and other cameras who were happy with their decision. So, it really depends on how important it is to you to have higher-than-smartphone-quality photos from your journey.

Recommended Electronic Gear

• Smartphone battery case: This is good for iPhone protection against unintended drops (that always seem to happen no matter how careful we try to be) and essential in extending or even doubling battery life, which may become an issue in full dorms with limited electrical outlets.
• Multi-plug and adapter: Competition can sometimes be fierce for plugs at albergues. If you have several devises consider bringing a small European multi-plug and adaptor with you, or perhaps one with a USB charger.

Wifi and Mobile Data Along the Camino

One of the joys of the Camino is to disconnect. However, if you want to — or need to — stay connected, never fear. Many of the albergues and accommodation, as well as cafes and restaurants, offer free wifi.

Additionally, if you have an unlocked smartphone you can pick up a SIM card (bring your passport to register it) and buy an inexpensive data package. We used Orange, but there's also Vodafone and other companies with similar options. Coverage was pretty good throughout most of our journey.

Camino Guide Apps, Maps, and Other Useful Resources

Camino Apps

There are quite a few apps available for each of the Camino routes. We used Wise Pilgrim apps for the Camino del Norte, Primitivo and Finisterre (you can download these for iPhone or Android here). What we liked about the app was the live GPS mapping functionality where you could where you were in that moment in relation to the official Camino route (mobile data required for this).

Although the Camino is well marked, there were quite a few times when this functionality came in useful to find the route when we got turned around. Also useful in this app were the services and accommodation listings per village or town. This information wasn't always correct, but for the most part it was pretty good for planning where there would be eating or sleeping options along the way.

If you prefer a paper guidebook to an app, Wise Pilgrim has publishing a series of Camino guidebooks. We’ve also heard good things about the Eroski Camino app, but a bit of Spanish language knowledge is needed for that.

We also used the Booking.com app and its “what's near me now” function frequently, especially mid to late afternoon, to see what accommodation was available in nearby villages or towns. The instant booking option provided us a sense of security as it guaranteed us a bed no matter what time we would arrive that night.

Mapping apps

If you have mobile data you can always use Google maps for the basics. However, we found that Pocket Earth maps not only allowed us to use maps offline, but they had more trails marked.

Additionally, the maps would show where you could find basic services in villages and towns — e.g., pharmacy, bank, grocery store, restaurant, cafe, etc. Although not always 100% accurate, we found this very useful when planning out a day to see where we should stop during the day for food, coffee, ATM machine, or pharmacy.

Other Camino Planning Resources

It's easy to feel overwhelmed by all the Camino websites and forums. We used Gronze (in Spanish, but you can use a translation app or extension) for research and then downloaded information in PDFs so we could refer to it on our phone along the way. For example, it breaks the Camino del Norte into recommended stages (etapas) with accommodation options in different locations, route description, and maps.

We also used a printout of the free Camino Primitivo and Finesterre guide by Liz Brandt. Especially good for cafe, cake and food recommendations.

Ultimate Camino Packing Checklist: PDF Download

To help you pack and prepare for your next Camino, no matter which route you take or how long it is, we've created a simple one-page downloadable Camino de Santiago packing checklist for women and men. This checklist has both standard items that are applicable to anyone, as well as specific backpack, clothing and gear recommendations for women and men. Great for if you are walking a Camino as a couple or on your own.

How to use this Ultimate Camino Packing Checklist

• Look at the checklist online to take stock of what you already own. If you are missing something, click on the linked item to see our specific recommendation (Disclosure: most of these are affiliate links to purchase these items on REI or Amazon).
• Print out a copy and do a test packing. Review the checklist to see if you have everything you need already. If not, do some strategic shopping to be sure you have everything you need.
• When you are ready to actually pack for the Camino, put your backpack and all your gear on the floor next to each other. Go through the checklist one by one to be sure everything is there before you begin packing.
• Then, pack your backpack. It may take several tries to get the right configuration. Don't try to overstuff. And remember, heavier things are best at the bottom of the backpack.

The post How To Pack for the Camino de Santiago: Camino Essentials and Packing Lists appeared first on Uncornered Market.

While we lived in Prague for over five years, we were simultaneously awed by its beauty and frustrated by the rapacious tourism development that had swamped its old town. More recently, I've heard from travelers disappointed by their visits to Prague because of the city's crowds and tourist schlock.

Yes, there's a fair heap of that. But, there are also ways to avoid it and there is much to see and experience in Prague without crowds. That's what this insider's guide is all about with tourist traps to avoid, best things to do, favorite Czech beers and pubs, neighborhoods to stay in, and where to eat in Prague.

Many moons ago, during our first month living in Prague, I remember exiting Charles University after a Czech language class and looking up at a night-lit Prague Castle and thinking, “My God, do I actually live here?“

It didn't seem real.

Even after five years of living in Prague, I could still turn a corner, catch the right light and get that feeling. Prague is a Bucket List and “Top 10 Romantic Cities” favorite — for good reason. But frankly, there's also a lot of touristy crap that can leave a casual visitor tourist-worn.

During my last visit to Prague, I played tourist for a day and forced myself to walk through through its main tourist artery — from the Prague Castle, over the Charles Bridge, down Karlova Street, through Old Town, up to the top of Wenceslas Square. Maybe it had improved since we lived there?

Nope.

But all is not lost. Here are some ideas on how to minimize the tourist schlock, what to do to replace it with, local neighborhoods to explore, Czech beers to try and where to eat in Prague at the end of the day.

Plus, we share recommendations on which Prague neighborhoods to stay in and some tours and boat rides that might help you explore the city even more. This all makes for a more enjoyable visit to Prague that also allows you to avoid some of the overtourism challenges that the city has faced and travel more sustainably by supporting local businesses.

Note: This post was originally published in May 2011 and was updated on June 4, 2019.

What to Avoid in Prague: Tourist Schlock

1. Karlova Street

In tourist hell, right next door to San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf and Bangkok's Khao San Road is Prague's souvenir-engorged Karlova Street. If you only retain one piece of information from this post, it should be this: avoid this street like the plague.

Don't ask why, don't be tempted. Just avoid it. Your visit will be all the better for it.

Alternative: “But how am I going to get from Charles Bridge to Old Town Square?” you might ask. Easy.

When you come off the Charles Bridge (on the opposite side of the river from Prague Castle), cut through the Klementinum (look for the doorway across the street to the left of Karlova street) and enjoy a peaceful stroll through a 14th century courtyard.

2. Concerts — or anything for that matter – sold by people in period costumes

If classical music's greatest hits served up in machine-gun style is your thing, by all means head right for the guys in period outfits. If, however, you have a taste for a full symphony and the real, high-quality, accessible classical music Prague is known for, go elsewhere.

Alternative: See #2 below for where to find high quality shows and buy concert tickets.

3. Wenceslas Square at Night

Where protesters once stood up to Soviet tanks during Prague Spring in 1968, hawkers now stand up for your opportunity to patronize their strip clubs. After dark, Wenceslas Square becomes a central place for strip club touts, prostitutes, their pimps and all manner of the shady and unpleasant. Although it's not unsafe per se, it's best avoided.

Alternative: After dark, walk any of the streets parallel to Wenceslas Square or take the metro to avoid the area altogether.

4. Astronomical Clock Show on the Hour

I know I'm going to get crap for this one. Don't get me wrong, the medieval astronomical clock on the side of Old Town City Hall is beautiful and worth a look.

But really, don’t worry about fighting with the tourist hordes that gather on the hour to see the “show.” The hourly spectacle features some figures moving around, a rooster call (my personal favorite) and a dancing skeleton (Dan's personal favorite). However, it’s really not worth the elbowing and unpleasant crowds you have to deal with to watch it.

Alternative: Have the clock to yourself to admire at any time outside the top-of-the-hour. If you find yourself tiring of the crowds on Old Town Square, pop up to the rooftop terrace at U Prince hotel, order a cocktail, and enjoy the view from above. It's particularly nice at sunset.

5. Prague's Scams and Overcharging at Tourist Restaurants

Unfortunately, some touristy restaurants and taxis still hold a narrowly opportunistic view of tourism and tourists (i.e., they scam anyone who looks like fresh meat).

What to do: Don't let these places get away with it: be vigilant, mind your bill, count your change, and question or complain if you are being cheated. If you don't, you'll be doing yourself — and all other tourists who follow in your footsteps — a disservice.

If your restaurant bill arrives with extra service charges or “taxes” that are not specifically called out on the menu, refuse to pay them.

If you need a taxi, use a local taxi app or have the hotel or restaurant call a trusted taxi company in advance. I would never pick up a taxi outside the front door of the train station or hotel. If you pick up a taxi on the street, use a company like AAA or ProfiTaxi. Finally, if you've been grossly overcharged, pay what you believe is fair and walk away. We've done it.

Non-Touristy Things to Do in Prague: The Good Stuff

With the unpleasant stuff out of the way, let's focus on what to do and visit besides what we call the “Prague Tourist Triad” (Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, Old Town Square). The aim: to give you a feel for a living city whose history goes long beyond just a few pretty buildings. And, to help you avoid some of the tourist crowds in Prague.

You might be thinking as you read, “But that's outside the city center.”

In some cases, our recommendations are outside of the Old Town City center, but they are not so far. Within a few minutes, you are only a tram, metro or a few footsteps away.

1) Vyšehrad: An Alternative Castle

Just down the Vlatava River from Prague Castle is the lesser-known 10th century castle of Vyšehrad. In addition to offering great views of the Vltava River and the city, Vyšehrad features grassy grounds stocked full of locals having picnics with family and friends.

The cemetery at Vyšehrad is also home to many of Czech greats of art and music, including Alphonse Mucha and Antonín Dvořák. The Peter and Paul church is also worth a look – neo-gothic on the outside, but Mucha-inspired art nouveau murals on the inside.

2. Classical Music Concerts and Operas

Prague's music scene is one of the things that kept us there so long. Even if you're not a huge classical music aficionado, it's still worth trying to see a concert just to experience the venue.

Go directly to ticket offices or a venue's box office for real performances. Basically, if the concert is associated with a national ensemble, you’re more likely to see a high quality concert at a lower price.

If your visit coincides with Prague Spring, try to book tickets in advance or, for last minute tickets, visit the Rudolfinum box office. Prague Spring often features top performers, conductors and orchestras from around the world.

I cannot begin to count the $1000s of dollars we would have spent on all the performances we took in had we seen the performers on their home turf. Prices continue to go up, but are still reasonable compared with Western Europe and the United States.

Suggested concert venues: Rudolfinum (our favorite venue and home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra), National Theatre, State Opera. These concert halls not only have wonderful acoustics, but they also are just beautiful concert halls.

In addition, Prague's art and museum scene is constantly changing and evolving. Many of the galleries and events are located in interesting neighborhoods and buildings. You can check out the list of upcoming events, festivals and exhibitions here.

To provide you with more flexibility and discounts if you want to visit several museums at once, consider getting the Prague City Card (2-4 days). It also includes a free river boat cruise, which is a nice way to get an overview of the city on both sides of the Vlatava River.

3. Exploring Prague's Neighborhoods

Although Prague’s Old Town (Staré Město) and Lesser Town (Malá Strana) often steal the Prague tourist show (and for good reason) with their medieval architecture, it's worth it to spend time poking around some of the surrounding neighborhoods. The Art Nouveau architectural stock in Prague's residential neighborhoods is impressive.

Walk, look up and soak it up. Architectural period melange, details, mosaics, statues, paintings, are all standard fare. Not to mention, this is the way you'll really begin to understand what modern-day living in Prague is all about.

Suggested neighborhoods to explore and to stay in: Vinohrady, Vršovice (our old neighborhood), Žižkov, and Holesovice.

4. Prague Beer gardens

When the weather is warm (or at least un-cold and bearable), Prague’s beer gardens are the place to while away an afternoon, evening, or possibly even both. Beer gardens are casual affairs with long, simple picnic tables, a food stand or two serving greasy sausages, and — most importantly — an endless supply of freshly pulled Czech beer.

Relax with locals of all ages, from the stodgy business guy in a suit to grandpa with his dog to the young punk kids.

Recommended Prague beer gardens:

Letna Park Beer Garden(Prague 7) with views of the city and Vltava River or Riegrovy Sady (Prague 2) for a more grungy, local flavor.

5. Glass of Wine at Grebovka Vineyard

There's actually a small vineyard within Prague’s city limits. And, there just happens to be a little café (called Altan) with a great gazebo sitting right above it.

These are the makings of a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine and a cheese plate. For quality, we actually suggest trying the Austrian wine over the local Grebovka wine.

Address: Grebovka park is in Prague 10. Closest tram stop is Krymska on 22, 16, or 4 tram lines. Finding your way here through the windy residential streets is part of the fun; this is not a touristy area at all. Go past the Grobovka Pavillion to get to Altan Cafe.

Recommended Prague Tours and Activities

Our partner, Get Your Guide, offers many Prague tours and attractions. They have the lowest prices, guaranteed, for these tours with no booking fees or hidden charges. In addition, they work with their partners to ensure Covid-19 safety features and you can usually cancel up to 24 hours before in case your schedule changes.

For inspiration, consider some of the following Prague city tours to experience the city from different angles and to go a little deeper:

• Prague Sightseeing Dinner Cruise on Open-Top Glass Boat (3 hours): As mentioned before, Prague is pretty stunning at night. Everything is lit up, and it is especially magical from the perspective of the water. This evening cruise will take you along the Vltava River past many of the city's historical sites like the Prague Castle, Charles Bridge and Old Town. And, you get to enjoy dinner and a drink as you take in the city by night.
• Prague Walking Tour (3 hours): One of the best ways to learn about a city is through a walking tour, and this one provides a great overview and takes you through what we described as the Prague Triad above: Old Town Square, Charles Bridge and Prague Castle.
• Prague Walking, Bus and Boat Tour (4 hours): If a long walking tour sounds a bit daunting and you you want to mix things up a bit, consider this walking, bus and boat tour of Prague. It will take you through many of the Prague Triad sites, but you'll have a chance to also view some of them, like the Charles Bridge and Castle, from the water on a 1-hour boat trip. This tour also includes a guided walk through Josefov, the Jewish Quarter.
• Prague Historical River Cruise (45-Minutes): If you want a quick (and very affordable) view of Prague's historical sites from the river, this boat tour is a good option. And, it includes a drink so you can take in the views with a cold Czech beer or local wine in hand.

You can see all their Prague tours here and read customer reviews to select the type of tour that's best fits your interests, budget and schedule.

Where to Stay in Prague

There is certainly no shortage of accommodation options in Prague, whether a hotel or your own apartment rental. So it can sometimes be a bit overwhelming to choose where to stay based on your interests and budget.

Although booking accommodation in Prague's Old Towns — Staroměstská or Malá Strana — will put you in the middle of the city's main sites, we actually prefer staying in one of the nearby neighborhoods. They provide a more local feel with more non-touristy pubs, cafes, restaurants and shops.

Here are a few recommended accommodation options in some of our favorite Prague neighborhoods. Click on the neighborhood name to see a selection of all accommodation in that area. Plus, we've added both hotel and apartment options, depending upon your preference.

• Vinohrady Hotels (Prague 2): A beautiful neighborhood filled with colorful 19th and turn of the 20th century architecture. Easy to spend hours wandering its back streets, lots of local cafes and restaurants.
  • Anna Hotel: This small, reasonably priced hotel, is located on a quiet neighborhood street near Namesti Miru. It's an easy 15-minute walk to the Old Town Square or enjoy getting lost in the colorful Vinohrady streets.
  • Apartment on Slavikova Street: A good option on a quiet Vinohrady Street if you prefer to have your own apartment with your own kitchen and space to spread out.
• VršoviceHotels (Prague 10): We're biased as this was our old neighborhood that we loved. Not quite as polished as Vinohrady up the hill, but Vršovice has a fun local feel to it with lots of turn-of-the-century architecture and streets to wander.
  • Czech Inn: This design hostel meets B&B is in a beautiful corner 19th century building. It is located near where we used to live in Prague, just down the hill from more touristy parts of Vinohrady and near the Grebovka vineyards mentioned above. There are also double and twin rooms available, in addition to dorms for the more budget-minded.
• Holešovice Hotels (Prague 7): Another neighborhood with beautiful turn-of-the-century architecture and residential streets with some big parks providing lots of green space and quiet.
  • Art Hotel Prague: Located in a quiet area not far from Letna and Stromovka parks, but Prague's historical center is about a 20 minute walk (and even shorter by tram).
  • Residence Nad Vltavou: If you're looking to stay in your own apartment, this option is in a modern building not far from the river in residential Holešovice.
• Žižkov Hotels (Prague 3): Traditionally a working class neighborhood, Žižkov today is known for its edgy, artistic and alternative side. It has some great street art, hilly streets, lots of local bars and art venues.
  • Carlton Hotel: Located in a good location not far from the Žižkov TV Tower with artist David Černý’s “Tower Babies” and close to lots of residential streets for walking and getting lost. Not far from the main train station and just a few tram stops to the center of town.
  • Žižkov Studio Apartment: A good newly renovated studio apartment option in the residential streets of Žižkov with a small kitchen, living room and loft sleeping area.
• Dejvice Hotels (Prague 6): This neighborhood is located above the castle and near several big parks. It's well connected for the airport.
  • Hotel Meda of Muesum Kampa: Located in a residential area near the main Dejvice circle. We had a friend who lived in this area and she really enjoyed it for its quiet, but also close proximity to the historical center and public transport.
  • City Castle Aparthotel: If you want your own apartment, this is a good location not far from the castle and very close to the metro and public transport. Lots of green space around as well, so good for active walkers.
• Karlín Hotels (Prague 8): In the last years Karlín has become rather hip and we know a few people who have moved to this neighborhood. It's a short walk to the historical center and close to the bus station and other transport hubs.
  • Botanique Hotel: A modern hotel with big rooms located in the Florenc area of Karlín, walking distance from old town and close to public transport.
  • Seven Wishes Boutique Residence: If you want your own apartment with modern fixings this is a good option on a quiet residential street about a 10-minute walk away from the old town.

Where to Eat in Prague: Czech Food and Recommended Pubs

There is definitely no shortage of hospodas (pubs) serving Czech fare throughout the city with varying levels of quality and grease content.

If you want a Czech restaurant or pub with a little better meat quality and less grease, give one of the following places a try. In addition to good Czech food, they usually serve tank beer (often, unpasteurized), making the Czech beer drinking experience all the more enjoyable.

Useful websites for reviews of new Prague restaurants: Czech Please, Spotted by Locals Prague, Taste of Prague's food blog.

Lokál

One of the newer additions to the Ambiante Restaurant empire. This place serves up quality and hearty Czech food at reasonable prices. Be sure to check out their constantly changing daily menu. In addition, they have tank beer, meaning that it will be harder to get fresher beer in town. So good. Address: Dlouhá 33, Prague 1.

Bredovsky Dvur

Just a block away from popular Wenceslas Square, but with a different feel from the high-traffic tourist areas. Try to go during lunch as there are inexpensive lunch meonus and you’ll be enjoying your meal with locals on their lunch break from nearby office buildings. Address: Politických vězňů 13 (parallel street to Wenceslas Square), Prague 1

Na Verandach

This restaurant is right at the Staropramen brewery, so you know the beer is fresh. Hearty food, too. Address: Nadrazni 84, Prague 5 (Smichov)

Olympia

Nice Czech pub serving both Czech and continental specialties. The changing daily lunch menu (11:00-3:00) offers hearty traditional Czech fare at reasonably prices. Address: Vítězná 7, Praha 1 (Ujezd)

Favorite Czech Beers and Prague Bars

If you are a beer drinker then you will be in heaven in Prague. Czech beer is that good. Even the big national brands like Pilsner Urquell, Budějovický Budvar and Gambrinus are really good, especially when you can find them pulled fresh from a tank. However, there are also lots of smaller label beers that are worth seeking out like Bernard, Svijany, and Krušovice.

And, every region of the Czech Republic seems to have its own small breweries and specialties. These micro-brews are becoming easier to find in Prague. Not to mention, the craft beer scene has exploded in the last few years so it's worth experimenting.

Below are some of our favorite Prague bars with a wide variety of Czech beers and craft brews on tap. Some of the places below also serve snacks and food, but beer is the main show.

To learn more about Czech beer, book a Prague beer tour that includes visits to local puts, beer tasting, information about local beer culture and a hearty Czech dinner.

Prague Beer Museum

It's not really not a museum, but it does serve close to 30 different beers on tap from small to medium breweries across Czech Republic. This is the place to learn about Czech beer the old fashion way — by drinking it. The owner is meticulous about buying only small kegs, keeping the keg lines clean and changing the beer menu every three months. Just be careful and pace yourself — mixing heavy beers can have a devastating effect the next day.

Address: The original Prague Beer Museum on Dlouha street is now closed. But, the Prague Beer Museum pub has opened up at Náměstí Míru (Americká 341/43, Prague 2) that is bigger and has a full menu. In addition, there's a second location at Smetanovo Nabrezi 22 in Prague 1 (Staré Město). So you can have your fill of hearty Czech food to go with all those great beers.

Pivovarsky Klub

In addition to a good selection of beers on tap, this place offers a minimum of 240 beers (Czech and international) in bottles on the menu. Ask the waiter for advice if you get paralyzed on what to order. This place also has good and reasonably priced Czech food, too. Address: Krizikova 17, Praha 8 – Karlin

Kavárna Mlýnská

This isn't so much a pub as it is a mill that has been turned into a café near Kampa Park. It's quite close to the touristy areas, but is a local place that serves wonderful unfiltered Bernard beer. Address: Všehrdova 449, Prague 1

Zly Casy

One of the recent additions to the Czech craft brewpub scene with an impressive list of craft beers on tap. A bit outside the center in Prague 4, but worth the effort. Address: Čestmírova 5, Prague 4

Practical Prague Travel Tips

1. What to Take With You

If you forget anything at home, you can probably find a replacement for it in Prague. Shopping possibilities are endless. For those coming from North America, be sure that your electronics can take 110-220 volts so that you don't blow out your gear.

Much of Prague is covered in cobblestones and stone sidewalks, so beware of high or thin heels that can get easily stuck between the stones. You'll be doing lots of walking so invest in comfortable shoes.

2. How to Get Around Prague

Public transportation in Prague is truly wonderful. If you're going to be in Prague for several days consider buying the 3-day pass for unlimited travel for 310 CZK. Otherwise, you can purchase individual tickets for either 32 CZK (90 min) or 24 CZK (30 min). Be sure to validate your ticket before starting your journey. You can plan your journey by public transport here.

If you do need a taxi, be wary of picking one up off the street, especially near train stations or other highly touristy areas. Use a taxi app or have the hotel or restaurant call one in advance for you. We recommend AAA Taxi or ProfiTaxi.

Consider booking a Prague airport shuttle so that you have someone waiting for you when you arrive and don't need to deal with any taxi games.

3. Money and Tipping

ATM machines are everywhere in Prague and almost all of them take international bank cards. We recommend using these to take out local money instead of using currency exchange places.

If you must exchange money, avoid using the currency exchange places along Wenceslas Square or Old Town as they are known to charge high commission fees or exchange rates. Some have multiple exchange rates depending upon how much you want to exchange. If you do need to use one, ask in advance how much in Czech crowns you would receive for your dollars or Euros. Don't be afraid to walk away if the rates are atrocious.

Credit cards are accepted in most restaurants and shops. Euros are also often accepted in many stores these days as well.

Tipping is usually around 10%, rounded up to the next whole figure. When in touristy restaurants be sure to check your bill for strange service charges and count your change carefully.

4. Safety and Security

For the most part Prague is a safe city, but like everywhere in the world it's important to stay aware of your surroundings and your stuff, especially your passport and wallet.

Be careful when walking around at night in dark streets and areas around Wenceslas Square. When in bars, cafes or restaurants keep an eye on your bags and stuff, especially in more touristy or popular areas. Stay alert when on public transport in touristy areas as groups of pickpockets have been known to work together on trams or metro cars.

Our Prague Recommendations in Podcast Form

If you're still curious about what else we recommend to see, do and eat in Prague, listen to this podcast interview on Prague we did with Chris Christensen of Amateur Traveler.

The post Insider’s Prague: 5 Tourist Traps to Avoid and Things to Do Instead appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Ah, Lisbon. A city which evinces a simplicity on the surface just as its historical and emotional roots run deep. Experience-rich, engaging and fun — yet a lot to unpack. That's where this Experiential Guide from our recent visit to Lisbon comes in with some usual — and unusual — things to do, eat, and experience.

Lisbon's Mediterranean highlights are colorful. Thoughtful design is at work. Consider the architecture, the trademark Portuguese azulejo tile-work and the street art. Tasteful, playful and eclectic. Lisbon’s visual is a melange, a blend of influences which harken old world east and modern west.

As playful and friendly as Lisbon can be, there feels a certain undercurrent. Fado, the song of fate and its sentiments of resignation, fatefulness and melancholia, come as no surprise in Lisbon. You can feel those tunes echo some on local neighborhood streets. Lisbon is sea-faring and world-aware yet maybe a little world weary. Port-townish and dashed with a bit of wistful, lost colonial grandeur. At the same time, there's an overtone of renaissance as neighborhoods get a face lift, hip restaurants flourish, and international artists and creatives flock to the city.

That’s part of Lisbon’s mystique. There’s nuance, contrast, contradiction. The atmosphere: refined, yet rough at the edges. The art: edgy, yet rooted. The cuisine: emerging and upmarket, at the same time down-home. The demeanor: upbeat and friendly, yet a little downcast. It even plays out in the geography of Lisbon’s seven hills. Trams and funiculars to take you up one and down the other side, winding through one utterly distinctive neighborhood after another.

Simple human interactions abound in Lisbon, like long conversations with shoe repair men and warm encounters with locals in neighborhood cantinas. Lisbon is what San Francisco would aspire to be if it were down-to-earth.

Lisbon, full of character, stands at a moment of redefinition. When you visit, the list of things to do and what to eat runs long. The question: how to sift through it all at pace to surface that depth?

Read on, make your plan. Put on a pair of comfy walking shoes, bring a healthy appetite and get ready to tune your adventurer’s eyes and ears to the detail of the message.

Lisbon, let’s go.

Lisbon Experiential Guide: 22 Things to Do and Eat

1. Take the #28 tram from start to finish

One of the finest experiences in Lisbon: riding a local tram end to end through the city’s narrow streets, up its hills, and around its bends. The most famous of these is the #28 tram whose path winds its way from Prazeres Cemetery (Campo de Ourique) to Martin Moniz through several different neighborhoods, including Alfama and Graça. The ride captures the essence of the city: its contours, colors, and context. Grab a window seat if you can and hang out the window (carefully, especially on those tight turns!) and interact with the humanity coursing the streets of Lisbon. It’s a ton of fun.

Tip: Although you can board the #28 tram anywhere along its route, it’s worth the effort to make your way to the starting point near Prazares (Campo de Ourique) so as to get a seat (here's the schedule). Our experience suggests you take one of the single seats on the right side (facing the front) to maximize your intake of and interaction with Lisbon street life. Note: Although you can purchase tickets on the tram itself (€2.80/person), it’s easier and less expensive if you use prepaid or daily metro card.

2. Get lost in the Alfama neighborhood as you try to find St. George's Castle

We are proof that it’s possible to get lost even while trying to find one of the Lisbon's biggest and best-known landmarks, Castelo de São Jorge. While we never actually made it inside the castle, our wanderings took us through the life-on-display alleys and streets of the Alfama neighborhood, a reward in itself. If ever we encountered a crowd of tourists, it only took a turn or two to find another quiet back street again.

Although we never made it into St. George's Castle, we found several miradouros (lookouts) along the way. The one at Nossa Senhora do Monte Church was our favorite among them. From there, it occurred to us that admiring the castle from afar might perhaps afford the best view of all.

There's also this view from just outside the castle gates where many of us who didn't get inside before closing time climbed up to catch the last light of the day.

Tip: Spot the fado street art stairway (Escandinhas do Porto Carro) on the “short cut” down from St. George's Castle.

3. Take a street art walking tour

We had no idea that Lisbon had such an active, creative and high-quality street art scene. Whether or not you happen to be a hard-core street art fan, join the Lisbon Street Art Tours donation-based walking tour for an excellent street art-based introduction to Lisbon. Along the way, you'll understand better the city’s current socio-economic, cultural and political context.

Vero, our guide, is an anthropologist studying street art in Lisbon. She knew many of the artists, local and international, and could share a bit of the backstory on their pieces including technique, messaging, and the relationship among pieces from the same artist. She introduced us to neighborhoods and streets we might not otherwise have known about, and pointed out details that we certainly would have missed on our own.

Her philosophy about street art applies to life: “If you don’t understand small things, then you won’t appreciate the big things.”

How to do a Lisbon street art tour: You can join a public street art tour (typically offered twice a week) that is donation-based. If these days or times don’t fit into your schedule or you want to try your own hand at creating street art then sign up for one of their workshops or private tours. A portion of their street art tour revenue goes to support public street art projects in Lisbon.

4. Find the original pastel de nata in Belem and learn the backstory of their creation

Prior to our setting off for Lisbon, a friend instructed us to “…eat ALL the Portuguese custard tarts.” The imperative was clear, serious and ALL CAPS. After several, um, firsthand experiences with these unique flaky-crusted, creamy custard-filled treats, we now understand why.

But how did these delicious little tarts get their start in Belem? Turns out we have the local monks and nuns from the 19th century to thank.

It happens that nuns once used egg whites to starch their habits, resulting in an overabundance of remaining egg yolks. In the 1820s and 1830s, when state support and subsidies were pulled from the Catholic church, monasteries, convents and churches were forced to find new revenue streams. In response, a few industrious monks and nuns combined those extra egg yolks with some sugar from Brazil (then, a Portuguese colony) to make custard tarts. The rest is history.

The first bakery in Portugal serving these custard tarts (called pastel de Belem), was Antigua Confeitaria de Belem (Rua de Belem #84 & #92, Belem). Having gotten its start in 1837, it still churns out thousands of these delicious little tarts daily. The line of people out the door all day makes the place easy to spot.

Where else to try custard tarts in central Lisbon? You’ll find pastel de nata in most bakeries throughout Lisbon. Our favorites come from Manteigaria (Rua do Loreto 2, Chiado). Take your pastel with a bica — the local name for a longish espresso-like coffee — and move towards the back. You’ll be able to watch the tart-masters at work through the open-bakery glass. As you watch them stirring custard, patting buttery dough into small metal cups, and adding the filling, you'll appreciate even more the tarts you've likely just inhaled.

5. Savor the codfish confit at O Surf & Turf

We carry a bit of skepticism to fusion cuisine: trendy, trying too hard and chasing too many flavors at once. However, the flavor profile from the blend of of Portuguese, Asian and Peruvian influences at O Surf & Turf at Time Out Market really does work. And consistently so. The restaurant does it by snaring the best from Kiko Martins‘ other Lisbon restaurants O Asiático, O Talho and A Cevicheria.

The winner of this small plate meal: the codfish confit over chestnut puree, topped with chorizo bits, roasted pine nuts and pickled red onions. There was a delightful balance between the savory and just sweet, dashed with just the right punch of tart acidity.

Other recommended dishes at O Surf and Turf? Check out the “cozido” meat croquettes (yes, cumin!) sided with anchovy mayonnaise. Not your average croquette. The roasted octopus, smoked duck and dark tapioca salad made for a delicious dish with a varied texture profile.

The house white wine, Cevicheria, deserves a shout out of its own. This Viognier Marsanne blend features a hint of minerality, sufficient acidity, and it pairs perfectly with much of the short menu, especially the codfish confit.

Tip: Try to get a seat at the bar at the kitchen. Although the kitchen runs a bit chaotic in its apparent lack of organized flow, it’s fun to watch. Staff were very friendly and happy to answer questions about our dishes and anything else they prepared.

6. Catch a performance at a local Fado bar…and crash a birthday party

“Fado…it’s about fate and destiny…” our street art tour guide, Vero said, “…and not being able to change that destiny.”

Fado is a style of singing that got its start in Lisbon in the 1820s. Its mournful melodies and lyrics are meant to represent the “Lisbon soul,” a mood of longing and loss. The best place to experience this is in one of the city's many Fado bars.

Fado bars are usually cozy, informal affairs, featuring a rotation of local singers whose performances unfold via an open mic. Your “entrance fee” is often a drink; you can stay or leave as you choose between sets. Singers rotate in and out every two or three songs, with lights turned on in between sets for a brief pause and an opportunity to top up your drink. We were partial to the female veterans whose voices and expressions seemed to carry an emotion built on a depth of their own life experience.

If you’re lucky, you might find yourself as we did — in the middle of a fado night crossed with a local birthday celebration where flowers, kisses and toasts are exchanged between singers. In this case, the jovial spirit of a birthday seemed to counter the mood and melancholy of fado. This seemed appropriate to Lisbon life in all its turns, highs and lows side by side.

7. Develop a whole new appreciation for sardines at Sea Me

When I think of sardines, I can't help but think of mushy fish drenched in oil that comes out of a can. A restaurant called Sea Me helped me consider this little fish in a whole new light when I tasted its flame-seared fresh sardine nigiri topped with sea salt.

Delicious, and in character with just about everything else we ate and drank there.

Other recommended dishes at Sea Me include: tuna ceviche (a fusion of Portuguese and Peruvian), fish tatare of the day, and sea bass sashimi wrapped with clams and lime (just as beautiful to eat as it was to behold). Big thanks to our friend, Giulia, who turned us on to this restaurant and the sardines.

Tip: Reservations are recommended for Sea Me. Consider the bar seats by the kitchen and fish counter in the back. You'll get a firsthand look at how many of the dishes, appetizers especially, are prepared. There’s also a Sea Me outlet at Time Out Market, offering a more limited menu.

8. Meet the Atlantic Ocean at Belem Tower

Given Portugal's size, it’s remarkable to consider that it was once a world sailing, navigation and colonial force in the 15th and 16th centuries. The pursuit of a new sea route to India initially propelled this quest. After finding that around the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa the Portuguese continued by founding other trading bases and colonies along the coasts of Africa, Asia and South America (Brazil). Consider this Portuguese colonial map to get a sense of this dominance.

Six kilometers from the center of Lisbon, Belem is where these navigators and explorers prepared and departed for their journeys about the world. The 16th century Belem Tower, now a UNESCO site, marks for Portugal the beginning of the Atlantic Ocean, where sailors and explorers left Portugal and the Targus River behind for adventures to all corners of the world.

Tip: We chose to admire the tower from afar. However, if you buy a joint ticket for the Belem Tower and nearby Jerónimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos) at the tower you'll be able to skip the long ticket line at the monastery. We also took a 90-minute free walking tour by Discover Walks which provided a good historical overview not only of Belem, but also of Portuguese history.

9. Find “Peace Guard”, the Shepard Fairey (Obey) street mural in Graça

Follow the tram line by foot along Rua Angelina Vidal in the Graça neighborhood above Lisbon’s downtown. Then, on the side street of Rua Natalia Correia you’ll encounter the towering image of a young woman soldier in a beret looking back at you, several stories high. Her image is striking, her expression evocative; the red flower in the rifle perhaps harkening to Portugal’s Carnation Revolution of 1974. Today, perhaps a sign of peace in what feels like turbulent times?

There are several other impressive street art installations nearby. The corner park, street scene and passing trams at this location make for one of the most picturesque streetscapes in Lisbon. Find a spot on one of the many park benches and just take it all in for a few minutes.

10. Walk the seven hills of Lisbon

Lisbon is spread out over an area which is marked by seven distinct hills, lending its contours and neighborhoods an almost fluid San Francisco-like feel. It also makes Lisbon a joy to walk, to get lost in, and to discover. By walking, you can experience the unfolding of the different layers of history and culture, particularly as you make your way from the old neighborhoods close to the port north to Lisbon's more outer districts. Along the way, you'll get a sense of of each neighborhood's distinct personality as it spills and winds its way into the next.

Sure, there are touristy areas of town, particularly in pockets of Baixa, Chiado, and Bairro Alto. However, we often found that a turn or two on a side street or getting off the bus or tram at the wrong stop was all it took to regain a local feel. It's interesting to note many neighborhoods that are today flush with upmarket restaurants and souvenir shops (e.g., Alfama by the castle) were once considered undesirable places to live just a decade or two ago. Gentrification is a double-edged sword, and something to keep in mind when visiting this rapidly changing city whose prices rise with its popularity.

11. Explore Portuguese wines and experience self-service wine tasting

If you find that the explanations offered at wine tastings are often long-winded, then the Vini Portugal wine tasting center on Terreiro do Paço is for you. With its self-service wine tasting approach you can go at your own pace, bounce around as you do, sample a wide variety in a short period, and hear nary a word about the wines you've just tasted.

After you buy credit on your wine card, insert it into one of the machines, put your glass down under the tap of the wine you wish to try (with a cost of €0.75-€8/per tasting), press the button, and wait for the 0.1 liter pour.

Disorganization amidst ostensible organization reigns supreme. Since bottles are behind glass and the rear labels inaccessible, the detail of what you’re drinking — varietals, alcohol levels, and food pairings — remain a mystery. Also, the signs above each bottle meant to indicate wine region often don't match the bottle beneath it. Further still, once a bottle is finished (and someone recommends it), it's often replaced with a different wine altogether. So while you may not emerge from your Vini Portugal experience well-informed on Portuguese wine, you'll get a chuckle, socialize and enjoy a few wines along the way.

Tip: Bring your own crackers or light snacks to cleanse your palate between tastings.

12. Race the trams up the steepest hills in Bairro Alto

Some of the steepest hills in the city can be found leading up to Bairro Alto (aptly named, “High Neighborhood”). In the late 19th century funicular railways (essentially very short tramways) were installed to ferry people up and down the city's steepest hills so that they might more easily make their way between neighborhoods.

For example, the funicular on Calçada da Glória transfers you from Avenida da Liberdade in Baixa to Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara in Bairro Alto above. The slope is nearly 18% grade. Our suggestion is to enjoy the trams from the outside as you take a brisk walk up the hill. Take note of street art and graffiti that covers most of the cars and a bit of the walls along the way. You'll work up an appetite for one of the many restaurants strewn about the back streets of Bairro Alto (see #13 below).

13. Sample Portuguese tapas in Bairro Alto

Spanish tapas are famous the world over, but what about Portuguese tapas? The tapas bars and restaurants in Bairro Alto can help answer that query, since many offer a variety of Portuguese tapas at a reasonable price.

Walk down Rua da Barroca, Rua do Diário de Notícias and the streets nearby and you’ll find chalkboards, sandwich boards and menus scrawled with lengthy lists of tapas. Options usually include bacalhau (salted cod) in every possible preparation to croquettes (fried, stuffed bites), smoked meats, and local cheeses. Arrays of seafood salads and small plates, too. Amidst all that choice, there's bound to be a Portuguese tapa or two that suits you.

Order a handful of these small plates for a diversity of flavors, accompanied by a house white or red wine. The beauty is that if you’re still hungry, continue ordering until you’re satiated. No pressure. There’s good reason why the small plate tapas style of dining remains our favorite.

Taberna da Barroca (Rua da Barroca #92, Bairro Alto) offers a reasonably priced tapas menu of 6 tapas, an ideal volume for the two of us. Recommended tapas include: Bacalhau pastel (fried codfish cake), octopus salad, spicy sardine filets, bacalhau with chickpeas, mushrooms in a cream sauce, and a cheese plate featuring 3-4 local varieties. All of this goes down well with a carafe of their house white wine.

14. Discover the fadista photo wall in the Mouraria neighborhood

Mouraria is the neighborhood where the fado style of singing is said to have gotten its start in the 1820s. This fact fits when you consider the history and reputation of this neighborhood as one filled with societal outcasts, beginning with the Moors taking refuge after being driven out of the castle by the crusaders in the 12th century. The prevailing narrative features tragedy, unrequited love, and desperation. In other words, all the makings for a good fado song, or song of fate.

Today, Mouraria remains a multicultural and diverse neighborhood, but one undergoing its own transformation and pangs of gentrification. As you walk the neighborhood, be sure to look for the black and white portraits of the area’s famous fadistas along the walls of its alleys and streets. The images are intended to pay tribute to and instill local pride in the neighborhood’s long-time residents and culture. Some of the people depicted are still alive, singing in nearby fado bars.

Tip: If you want a break from Portuguese food, Mouraria is the place to go for ethnic food. Take your pick of Bangladeshi, Chinese, Indian, and many other cuisines.

15. Savor the tender polvo at Tasca da Esquina

Tasca da Esquina, recommended by one of the Lisbon-based fans of our Facebook page, is known for its modern take on traditional Portuguese dishes.

The octopus salad we enjoyed there delivered exactly that.

Tender, fresh cuts of octopus are stewed in citrus lime sauce (not quite as strong leche de tigre, of Peruvian ceviche fame) and turned with clippings of mint and cilantro. All this is topped off with fried sweet potato chips in a nod to the dish's Peruvian inspiration. Yes, it's as tasty as it looks.

We also recommend the cockles in garlic-ginger sauce topped with cilantro.

Tip: Located just outside the center of town, this restaurant is in a perfect position for lunch if you plan to catch the #28 tram from its origin near Prazeres Cemetery (see #1 above). The restaurant is small, so either make a reservation or show up at an off-peak hour. Address: Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C, Campo de Ourique. This restaurant also runs a stand at Time Out Market.

16. Walk the Lisbon streets at night

Lisbon by day, Lisbon by night. To understand this place, you must experience both. Our cross-town walk back to our guest house on New Year’s Eve when some of the metro lines were shut turned out to be a opportunity in disguise. We appreciated the move from center to outer, old to new, all in a tinge of nighttime glow. Streets, once bustling, become quiet. Night lights, cast against tiles and cobbles, amplify Lisbon's trademark Mediterranean mystique and architectural melange and lend a romantic feel.

The streets of Bairro Alto, alive during the day, are even more so at night . We also enjoyed our nighttime strolls up through Real Principe, São Bento too. Be sure to keep an eye out for the visual transformation that street art undergoes when lit.

17. Choose your favorite azulejo (tile) facade

Among the many features that make Lisbon's streets so colorful: the azuelos, glazed ceramic tiles that cover the exterior of so many buildings throughout the city. Appreciate them from afar, then get a bit closer to see how repetition, pattern and color play to an apparent seamless design. Finally, zoom in and admire the intricate design and craftsmanship of each tile.

Although azuelos were first introduced to Portugal by way of the Spanish in the 15th century, their design harkens to the Moors who dominated the Iberian peninsula for centuries and their own origins in the Middle East and North Africa. Over time, tile design has changed based on trends and fashion, with azulejos experiencing a sort of resurgence in the 20th century.

Tip: Be sure to keep your eyes open while making your way through Lisbon's metro stations. Many are full of tile-based design and art installations.

18. Discover Portuguese comfort food with grandma’s bacalhau à brás

Bacalhau à brás, quintessential Portuguese comfort food, features shredded salted cod, turned with onions, tiny fried potato sticks, and egg scramble. The combination of flavors is hearty and down-home, and portions are often huge. The dish we shared between the two of us was easily enough for dinner.

Tip: We took our bacalhau à brás at A Primavera do Jeronimo (Traversa da Espera 34, Bairro Alto), just around the corner from Tasco a Chico fado bar. We chose to eat here after poking our head into the restaurant and eyeing a woman in the kitchen who looked like grandma…and looked like she meant business. The restaurant only has a few tables, so consider making a reservation to ensure you have a spot.

19. Find the abandoned buildings covered with street art near Picoas Metro

Abandoned buildings, the playground of street artists. The three abandoned buildings in a row on Avenida Fontes Pereira de Melo near Picoas metro station look like they must have once been aristocratic villas, mansions from a bygone era. The murals wrap the series of buildings and continue to a fourth just across the street. The grit and socioeconomic messaging amidst the old world grandeur of the surrounding neighborhood offers a compelling contrast that is worth a look.

Tip: If you continue walking north on Avenida Fontes Pereira de Melo you'll walk past some great late 19th-century/early 20th-century architecture and eventually run into the picturesque Campo Pequeno bullring (turned concert venue and mall).

20. Sample many of Lisbon’s top restaurants at Time Out Market

Imagine a food hall with outposts of your city’s most popular restaurants…all in one place. That’s essentially Lisbon's Time Out Market at the old Mercado da Ribeira by Cais do Sodre on the river. Yes, it’s trendy. Yes, it may be a bit on the expensive side. But for the diversity of flavors and plates, often amidst open kitchens, it's worth a visit. Possibly two.

Several restaurants on the north end of the market and main hall feature open kitchens with bar seats. Grab one of those if you'd like a front-row view of all the culinary action.

Tip: Head to Time Out Market during off hours since it can feel frantic and overwhelming when it’s full. We actually fled the first time we visited as there were no seats; the frustration and estimated wait times didn’t seem worth it. With patience and perseverance, we returned later to find a kitchen-side seat and enjoyed one of our most memorable meals in Lisbon (see #5).

21. Go local, and order the daily menu at a local cantina

Lisbon's neighborhood cantinas are typically located in more residential areas (e.g., in parts of Saõ Bento, back streets of Graça, and the outer neighborhoods). You can spot a cantina because of the list of 3-8 items handwritten on butcher paper taped to the front window or door, indicating the daily menu and fresh catch. You can usually find a combination of seafood and meat dishes around €5-€8.

In other words, not a fancy ordeal. But, good and hearty traditional Portuguese food, an authentic atmosphere, and genuinely friendly people — all at exceptionally reasonable prices.

At A Maravilha de Sao Bento (Rua Nova da Piedade #87, Sao Bento) we chose the grilled dorado (sea bass) dusted with sea salt, and the jaquinzinhos fritos (fried horse mackerel) served with rice and beans. Both were good, but the quality of the grilled dorado was outstanding.

Even more, the daily menu price of €7/each (2018 prices, so likely more expensive now) included not only our ample seafood meals (we didn’t need dinner that night, or quite possibly breakfast the following morning), but also the couvert of bread and olives, 1/2 liter of house wine for two people, two espressos (bica) and a friendly shot of Ginjinha (a sour cherry liquor you must try at least once while you are in Lisbon). The additional 1/2 liter of wine that appeared on our table cost a whopping €1.75. Our total bill: €15.75. More than enjoying a great value meal, we enjoyed the staff, including the zany cooks who sang and yelled about their favorite football clubs from the kitchen window and the bartenders who made us, the only foreigners in the joint, feel as welcome as anyone else.

TL:DR – For the best value meals in Lisbon, head to the local cantinas.

22. Take a selfie at an overlook and have gratitude for where you are: Lisbon

Do you ever have a moment during a trip where you think, “Wow, I’m so fortunate to be here, to be able to experience all this and to take in this beauty?” For me, that moment happened at this overlook as we walked down from (another failed attempt at) the castle.

After snapping the selfie, put down the phone, take a breath (or two) and enjoy the moment.

Where to Stay in Lisbon

Some of the more popular neighborhoods to stay in Lisbon include Bairro Alto, Alfama, and Baixa / Chiado. These are fun neighborhoods in and of themselves, and you'll be close to the big sites, restaurants, and action. For a more local-feeling neighborhood we'd recommend looking for accommodation in Principe Real.

We stayed at República Bed & Breakfast just across from Campo Pequeno bullring on Avenida Republica. It was a bit of a walk (30-45 minutes) to get to Bairro Alto or the river. Alternatively, it takes 15-20 minute ride by metro (the Campo Pequeno station is just there). However, we actually enjoyed being a bit outside the center as it allowed us to appreciate Lisbon's neighborhood and historical layers. The B&B itself featured comfortable rooms, a hearty breakfast, and super-friendly staff (Ana, we're thinking of you!), and a reasonable price.

When to Visit Lisbon

We visited Lisbon for five days over New Year's, when temperatures reached almost 70 degrees (about 20 degrees Celsius) on several days, and it was sunny, bright and crisp. We realize that this might have been unusually warm. Regardless, we still stand by Lisbon being an excellent place to escape to in the winter months and for a New Year's getaway. Sure, things were perhaps a bit more crowded because of the holiday, but not obnoxiously so. And dining on New Year's Eve was the easiest we've experienced anywhere.

We also recommend visiting Lisbon in the spring or autumn when temperatures are still warm, but not too hot. We know many people who have enjoyed traveling to Lisbon in the summer months (June-August), but have warned us that the heat can be intense, especially so as many of the older buildings do not have air conditioning.

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“Add a little sugar to the saffron,” Farzane said as she worked the combination in her mortar and pestle. “It makes it easier to grind.”

Farzane, a 20-year old refugee from Afghanistan who’d come to Berlin with her family in the last year, was deep in the process of teaching us how to prepare several Afghan dishes she’d grown up cooking in her home town of Herat. In the heart of Berlin’s Schöneberg neighborhood, she guided us through the creation of dishes like zereshk polo (burberry rice pilaf) and khorecht lawang (lamb in a fermented yogurt sauce), among others.

As she taught our group how to make schole sard, an Afghan-Persian dessert that served as the finishing touch to our feast, she gathered us around for a final stroke of decoration. Taking one of the bowls of sunny, saffron-infused rice pudding, she dashed atop it an elaborate design of ground cinnamon, almonds and pistachios.

Farzane made it look so easy, so elegant. Then it was our turn. As we struggled with our own designs – powder lines of cinnamon and sprinkles of pistachio flecked almond flair — Farzane’s shyness yielded. She smiled, maybe even laughed. And we laughed at ourselves, the circle of vulnerability complete.

Cooking Across Borders: Deep Travel in Berlin

Why were we learning how to cook Afghan food in Berlin?

Last year we partnered with Context Travel as Deep Travel Ambassadors to help develop a new tour in Berlin. The goal: a shared experience focused on connection between travelers and a local community organization. After considering the various social and geopolitical issues that impact Berlin and the world, Context Travel, together with our help, set its sights on contributing to refugees and their integration in Berlin, while providing travelers a human lens through which to view a complex and often misunderstood issue.

That’s the inspiration and direction of the new Context Travel Cooking Across Borders tour and Deep Travel project in Berlin. The project is in partnership with the Berlin-based NGO Über den Tellerrand, a recent innovator in refugee support and integration projects in the city.

Über den Tellerand means “about the plate” so it’s not surprising that a large number of their projects feature food and face-to-face encounters between people with different cultural backgrounds. They organize pop-up restaurants with refugee chefs, cooking groups for refugee women, and other initiatives that bring people together through shared interests such as cuisine, gardening, and beekeeping. The common thread — just as it is with Cooking Across Borders — is an activity which bring us together, allowing us to meet one another where we are at.

A Cooking Across Borders experience begins with a brief seminar from an historian or migration expert about the history of immigration in Berlin, including the latest wave of refugees from places like Syria, Afghanistan and Somalia. This isn’t the first time persecution and wars have intersected with the arc of Berlin. The city’s past has produced its own share of refugees, many of whom found themselves emigrating permanently elsewhere around the world.

The city has also at times served as a haven for those fleeing persecution. For example, the prominent French Cathedral on central Berlin's Gendarmenmarkt stands testament to how the city offered asylum to 17th century Protestant Huguenots fleeing France. The flow and lasting imprint of diverse cultures has helped shape the energy of the city we know today.

Cooking Across Borders participants then embark on a cooking workshop led by a female refugee in Berlin. This experience pairing allows travelers the opporunity to understand the recent refugee crisis first more generally, then through a personal story, one that peeks behind the statistics and broad strokes of the news cycle. Along the way, travelers also learn how to prepare select dishes from the instructor’s home country. The questions, answers and anecdotes that unfold in conversation along the way help provide an understanding of each element of the meal and its cultural relevance.

Farzane: One Young Woman, Representative of Many

Farzane’s story, while personal and the story of one, is illustrative of many. Her previous home was Herat, the third largest city in Afghanistan, considered the gateway to Iran. She left with her parents and three other siblings about one year ago. Her family's decision, motivated by safety concerns, politics and violence, prompted a quick departure. She still has other family and friends back in Heart and remains in contact with them via Whatsapp, aided by the free wifi signal at the metro station near her home in Berlin.

In one of my recent meetings with her, I showed her an article about the Herat Friday Mosque and a few local artists working to renovate it. As Farzane scrolled through the images in the article, a smile appeared and widened on her face. “It's beautiful,” she said, but how much more beautiful it was in real life.

In Herat, cooking was nothing remarkable for Farzane; it's something every young woman in Afghanistan does. Farzane began helping her mother in the kitchen at 14 years old. Here in Berlin, the food she grew up with developed into something special, something to be shared, a vehicle to connect with others in a new land. Her interactions with Über den Tellerrand also provided an outlet for her to be with other women and use the German language, which she learned in nine months — a remarkable feat considering it often takes others several years. (I speak from personal experience.)

I discovered during the evening of our meal together, that Farzane had an interview with German authorities regarding her refugee status earlier that day. Her circumstances were being examined closely because she is over 18 years old, technically an adult. Where she goes from here in terms of process is uncertain. Her life this last year, it occurred to me, has been one of chronic uncertainty.

Cooking Across Borders: Levels of Impact

Food, cooking, creation – these forces bring us together. Food is fun, it teaches us, it levels. After all, we all need to eat. Whether one is focused on chopping pistachios or transforming saffron threads into a fine powder, a sense of our similarities tends to outweigh whatever our differences might be.

The impact does not end with a culinary lesson and experience for the traveler, however. A portion of tour fees provides the instructor with another source of income and professional development. An additional annual contribution from the Context Foundation helps fund a bi-weekly women’s cooking group which brings together refugees and members of the community.

Many of these women, especially those coming from refugee shelters, don’t have access to a kitchen. They’re unable to cook at home, a concept many of the rest of us take for granted. For the women, the Über den Tellerrand kitchen serves as a therapeutic outlet, a reprieve from the day-to-day challenges as a refugee, a place where one can have some semblance of order or comfort, even if only for a short while.

These “cooking afternoons” also fulfill the role of group support. With other refugees, women can discuss family, challenges and opportunities away from the shadow of their husbands and the immediacy of their children’s needs. The connection with German women from the community facilitates further support, cultural exchange, and language acquisition.

Cooking Across Borders: The Why

An experience like Cooking Across Borders conveys, in ways large and small, not only that we are interdependent but also that the fluidity of history is integral to the connections we share. If Berlin’s story of destruction and rebirth teaches us anything, it is that nothing is permanent — except, perhaps, the importance of our shared humanity.

Sometimes it takes grinding some saffron and pistachios to understand how it all, this life, really works. Sometimes it takes an experience that encourages us to care. And the more we care, the more we engage. The more we engage and align our decisions with our values, the more likely we’ll give to the forces that bring us together, rather than giving into those forces that seek to divide us.

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A few thoughts on the current state of global discourse, the power of individual interactions in the world of travel, and an update on a new project we’ve undertaken in Berlin with Context Travel.

Anyone else feeling dragged down by the current news cycle?

Particularly with so much of it being steeped in divisiveness, fear, and tribalism — a kind of “distrust of the other” juggernaut — it’s easy to feel helpless and winded, to forget or even dismiss the effect of our individual interactions and decisions against that grain.

I admit to occasionally feeling paralyzed, but when I step back I gain some perspective. Allow me to translate my feelings into a course of instructive action — a course that helps in some small way to redirect the flow of energy.

Don’t lose sight.

Don’t lose sight of the power of human connections to weave a resilient web of empathy. Don’t lose sight of how individual actions collectively seed an evolving understanding that cultivates change. Don't lose sight of each other.

Whoa, whoa. This is getting a little heavy. What does this have to do with travel?

Our actions matter, for and to each of us. When we align our values with our travel decisions we see the impact of our actions on three levels: on ourselves, on those we interact with, and on the planet.

To me, this approach to travel — and initiatives that embrace it — are perhaps more relevant than ever.

Deep Travel Ambassadors

We are excited to announce our new role as ambassadors for Context Travel and their Deep Travel program. In our role, we will work closely with their team to develop the program’s offering in Berlin, with an eye to features and best practices that can be carried to other Deep Travel projects around the globe.

Our objective is to help shape a program that creates a shared experience between travelers and a local community organization, and fosters empathy and engagement through two-way storytelling in action.

When we consider partnering with brands and organizations, we look for an alignment of values, and a shared vision regarding how travel can be used for positive change, to foster greater understanding and humanization of our planet.

We believe this program is a good fit with our ethos, and we look forward to sharing more with you in this role.

Who Is Context Travel?

Context Travel offers walking tours. In my experience, they run more like walking seminars. Groups are intimate with a maximum of six people and are led by a docent, usually a PhD or expert in a field relevant to the destination.

For example, we once took a Context tour of Kreuzberg, a nearby neighborhood in Berlin we thought we thought we knew well. Our guide, a history professor, drew our attention to specific details of waves of urban migration, industrial architecture, and cultural evolution we simply hadn’t known or considered. We’ll never see those streets in the same light.

Contextual storytelling makes a difference in the world of travel experience by deepening and changing our relationship with the places we visit.

This is Context’s approach, something they call Deep Travel.

What Is the Deep Travel Program?

The Deep Travel program takes this immersive travel approach a step or two further — by implementing it in the context of a local community development organization. The idea: to channel traveler curiosity in a non-traditional context to foster shared tolerance and two-way understanding.

The traveler gains an authentic (in the truest sense of the word) experience that affords her a deeper look at a destination through an alternative socioeconomic and cultural lens. In turn, the local organization and its participants are able to share their stories.

Finally, through a portion of tour fees and a partnership with the Context Foundation for Sustainable Travel, the local organization also benefits by having another source of income to expand its work in the community.

The intangible global impact is in the network effort. The more we connect with one another as fellow human beings, the more likely we are to overcome our differences. We listen, we go home, we tell others about our interactions. Broadly and in small strokes, we change the conversation and hopefully, the less we all fear “the other” — other places, other people, other cultures.

Thus far, Deep Travel projects have been implemented in Cartagena, Colombia and Florence, Italy. Berlin will be next (see below) with more projects envisioned in cities around the world where Context operates.

A telling of our experience in Cartagena probably demonstrates the concept best.

Cartagena: A Deep Travel Project in Action

During our trip to Colombia last year, we visited Context’s Deep Travel project in the barrio of San Francisco, Cartagena. Despite the beauty of old town Cartagena — or perhaps because of it — it’s possible for a traveler to emerge from a visit thinking the city’s polished colonial buildings and wealth represents the entire city, that it extends to everyone. The socioeconomic reality in Colombia, however, is one of systemic hierarchy and a gaping chasm between rich and poor.

Alex Rocha, a community leader in San Francisco, took us on an afternoon walk through what is considered one of Cartagena’s poorest barrios. The San Francisco neighborhood also happens to be the place where he grew up, where he lives and where he runs his community youth center. For him, learning English (he jokes that an obsession with Michael Jackson and breakdancing helped) and focusing on education helped him escape the barrio cycle of poverty. Here, gangsters are often the most appealing, if not the only, role models available for young kids. His youth center aims to provide alternatives focused on life skills education programs and foreign language acquisition.

In San Francisco, there were no beautiful colonial buildings or churches or historic sites to be seen that afternoon. However, the experience left a deep impression as to a reality that needs to be seen, experienced and understood if we are to acknowledge rightly that, notwithstanding the beauty of so many destinations around the world, all is not perfect and we have work to do. This project helped expand our understanding of Colombia, in all its dimensions. Alex and other members of the youth center shared their stories – not tales of poverty and pity, but ones of resilience and the pursuit of respect.

Despite whatever odds, their effort and Alex’s leadership lend a chance. And Context Travel’s offering a window to travelers to witness and experience this firsthand is the stuff of shared transformation.

Going Forward: Deep Travel Berlin and How Can You Get Involved

In the coming months, we will work with Context Travel to develop a new Deep Travel project in cooperation with a Berlin-based organization that supports refugees. The intended outcome: an immersive, interactive experience for travelers which engages refugees in Berlin in a way that reinforces their strengths and abilities. The tours also provide an additional source of funding for the local organization.

That this project is in Berlin has special meaning for us. We look forward to employing our global storytelling skills in our adopted home. Connections will be created, personal stories brought to light, and texture provided to otherwise de-contextualized refugee statistics we often see in the news.

Whatever you do, know that you have an impact.

The post Deep Travel in Berlin: A New Project with Context Travel appeared first on Uncornered Market.

If you're thinking of visiting Puglia, Italy, but don't know where to start in planning a road trip or what to see and do in Puglia, then you're in the right place. Read on for our top recommendations on things to do, where to eat, where to stay, and places to interest in Puglia from our own road trip.

The goal: help you create your own road trip route and Puglia itinerary of 7-10 days. This little-known province in southern Italy really has so much to offer in terms of history, beautiful old towns, beaches, landscapes, colorful markets and just incredible food.

Choosing Puglia for Our Anniversary

Puglia (or Apulia), the southern Italian province referred to as “the heel of the boot” first entered my consciousness more than ten years ago when a friend from San Francisco up and moved there on the initial leg of his retirement.

In an email now deep in the archives, Will wrote: “Puglia is excellent. And by the way, not too expensive, my friend […] I have a very spacious apartment in a nice section […] excellent weather and the food almost never disappoints.”

I’ve since lost touch with my friend; perhaps Puglia was so good that it drew him in. But before it did, he planted a seed.

As our 15th wedding anniversary approached, Audrey and I considered a handful of regions in Italy in which to celebrate. While we could have returned to Tuscany, the original scene of the crime, we aimed to explore somewhere new to us. Puglia came up often, reigniting the embers of my friend’s correspondence.

Along with the neighboring province of Basilicata, Puglia would serve as the setting of a road trip to celebrate the occasion. Equipped with a rental car reservation for late September to early October and no plans other than a bed and breakfast reservation for our first night in the provincial capital of Bari, we set off with a touch of abandon and two maps – one physical, one digital.

During our Puglia travel research, we were grateful for and overwhelmed by all the recommendations we received. Particularly thanks to our Puglian friends Franca and Gianni, there was plenty to sift through. We allowed the chance twists and turns of the road — “let’s pull over here…maybe we should stop here for the night” — to serve as our sorting mechanism.

If you’ve never thought of visiting Puglia, maybe the following photos, experiences and stories can draw an image in your mind’s eye — and help you plan a trip of your own.

Andiamo!

How to use this Puglia travel guide to create your own Puglia, Italy road trip and itinerary: The following experiences are in chronological order from our own travels and road trip in Puglia, Italy. If you have 7-10 days, you can conservatively accomplish something similar (scroll down for a map of our road trip route). Or, cut back a few destinations to make the trip more leisurely and manageable. We include suggestions of notable restaurants and accommodation to help round out your travels in Puglia.

Road Trip in Puglia, Italy: What to See and Do in Puglia

1. Find your way home in Bari, Puglia by walking the medieval old town walls.

We get lost. Often. It’s a fact.

On our first night in Bari, after a long four-course meal accompanied by a carafe of Puglian wine, we got turned around on our way home and stumbled upon a ramp that took us atop the medieval stone walls surrounding the old town.

It may not have been the most direct way home that night, but it proved a beautiful and romantic diversion. The medieval old town glowed on one side of us while the Adriatic Sea lapped on the other.

“Now, why haven’t we heard more about Bari before?” Charming, alive, good food. Spend a night or two in Bari, or as we did bookend your trip with a visit there. To explore Bari even more, consider taking a walking tour through the old town.

Where to eat: Vini e Cucina, via Vallisa 23, Bari. What to eat: The standard offering, scribbled on a chalkboard, is a four-course meal focusing on seafood. The grilled pulpo (octopus) was tender and perfectly cooked. For an introduction to Puglian food, this is a good place to start.

Where to stay in Bari: We stayed close to Bari's old town and water so that it was an easy walk to the city's main sites and charming historical streets. A few hotels in Bari's old town to consider:

• San Domenico: Located in a great location on the edge of Bari's old town, San Domenico B&B has rooms with balconies.
• La Stanza Hotel: Located in Bari's old town close to the water and port, La Stanza Hotel offers rooms with a kitchenette in an old stone building.
• Il Puma Apulian Rooms: Modern and recently renovated rooms not far from Bari's old town, but convenient to the train station if you are traveling by train.
• Find a hotel in Bari that fits your budget, desired location and style on Booking.com.

2. Rise early and jog the coast along the port of Bari.

Run, jog, walk. Whatever method you choose to carry yourself, make an effort to get up early and trace the coast around Porto Vecchio. This will prove essential to your health, particularly if you’ve overdone it as we had with too many courses the night before. Not that we speak from experience…

You’ll also find fishermen stocking the seafood market from their boats, fresh from the morning’s catch. A few others choose to sell direct on the stones next to the promenade.

3. Take a photo of laundry hanging in every old town. Begin with Bari.

Everyone around the world does laundry. (Don’t they?)

In Italy, laundry unfurls like pastel banners in the breeze of medieval alleys and it dries in the warmth of Mediterranean light. Those flags of everyday life are accompanied by voices of local families.

The curtain is pulled back on Italian life and the backdrop feels cinematic. This is culture of the unofficial sort, beauty and poetry embedded in a task many of us consider mundane.

4. Meet the Adriatic Sea at Polignano a Mare, Puglia.

We confess to not going into the water here. (Later we did). However, we enjoyed watching others dodge the chop and waves and take in the fading warmth of the season by sunbathing on the rocky beach of the cove at Polignano. It’s as if they said, “I know winter is coming, but I won’t allow it. Not yet.”

This is one of three distinct views to catch in Polignano a Mare. The two others are from the opposing cliffs above.

If you want views of Polignano a Mare from the water and to get even closer to the caves and cliffs, take a 1.5 hour boat ride that takes you along the coast to visit the main caves and also offers the opportunity to take a dip. For even more time to explore the caves, go snorkeling and enjoy the views, consider this longer 3.5 hour boat ride in and around Polignano a Mare.

Where to eat in Polignano a Mare: Osteria dei Mulini, via Mulini 2, Polignano a Mare. Located just inside the old town walls. What to eat: Orecchiette di grano arso or “burnt” flour orecchiette with tomatoes, bread crumbs, anchovies + purè di fave e cicoria or pureed fava beans topped with sautéed chicory.

Where to stay in Polignano a Mare: We didn't spend the night here, but kind of wish we had as the old town is beautiful and it would have been quite stunning to watch the sun rise and set over the cliffs and water.

• Amore di Mare Casa: Located on the seafront cliff in the old town, Amore di Mare Casa has a rooftop terrace with an incredible view of the Adriatic Sea and either rooms or apartments with balconies.
• Casa Cassona: If you want to stay in the old town, but with a little more space and your own kitchen then take a look at the apartment offered by Casa Cassona. A good value especially for families as it can sleep up to five people in its two bedrooms.
• B&B Casa Dorsi: Located in a traditional building in the old town, Casa Dorsi has rooms and suites with balconies, including several with views of the sea. You'll be right in the middle of old town, and just a few minute walk from the beach if you decide to take a dip.
• Find a hotel in Polignano a Mare that matches your dates, budget and style.

5. Watch fishermen knot giant fishing nets in the port town of Monopoli, Puglia.

Although I understand that commercial fishing now dominates the world’s waterways, including in the Roman-Venetian living history museum that is Monopoli, it’s still heartening to see independent fishermen still play a role. Amidst the tiny fishing boats along the old port, watch veteran fishermen mind the knots and fix the holes in their fishing nets in preparation for tomorrow’s catch.

6. Enjoy the back streets of Monopoli during la pausa.

La pausa (“the pause”) is the Italian institution version of siesta and nap time. After the “storm before the calm” as people leave work, a stretch of stillness descends on Italian towns from noon until 4:00 PM.

We found ourselves roaming the streets of Monopoli just as the streets emptied for lunch; the remarkable old town and coastal promenades were ours almost entirely.

Magical, no?

Road trip note: Public parking is often free and more easily found during the pause since everyone has gone home for lunch. It’s an excellent time to take advantage and find a place to eat.

Where to stay in Monopoli, Puglia: We didn't spend the night here as we had already reserved a place in Lecce for the night, but as you can see from the photos Monopoli is pretty magical so we wish we had planned to spend at least one night here. We can imagine how beautiful those marbled streets would have been to wander through at night.

• Mamma Maria B&B: A good budget option right in Monopoli's old town near Porta Vecchia (old port). The beach is very close by, as is free public parking (good if you have a rental car).
• Dimora Palmiera B&B: Located in Monopoli's old town near Porta Vecchia and the beach, Dimora Palmiera's rooms have balconies and there is a nice rooftop terrace to enjoy breakfast each morning.
• Palazzo Murat B&B: Housed in a historic building in the old town, Palazzo Murat B&B has rooms that are modern in design and features, but you can still see the traditional domed ceilings and stonework. Large private bathrooms and a rooftop terrace to enjoy breakfast.
• Find a hotel in Monopoli, Puglia that matches your budget, style and schedule.

7. Stumble upon a 2nd century Roman amphitheater at night in Lecce, Puglia.

Lecce is most known for its Baroque architecture, something opulent and grand and looking as if it has just popped out of a 3-dimensional fairy tale book. This is especially true at night when buildings are lit and details laid bare.

The huge 2nd century Roman amphitheater on the edge of town reminded us of the depth of history and the many layers of civilizations buried just under our feet in this part of the world.

If you want to go deeper into the city's history and learn about its main sites, consider taking a walking tour of Lecce (1.5-2 hours) or a street food tour where you get to taste some of Lecce's food specialties while taking in the Baroque architecture and feel.

Where to stay in Lecce, Puglia: We stayed at UP Room&Suite, Via Cavour 16, 73100 Lecce which was in a good location in the old town and reasonably priced. Other Lecce hotels to consider staying in include:

• Arryvo Hotel: A modern hotel located in Lecce's old town, Arryvo Hotel is also quite social with a restaurant, bar and lobby area that sometimes includes live music.
• La Casa di Giovanni B&B: Located just a short walking distance from Lecce's old town and its major sites, La Casa di Giovanni has bright, modern rooms decorated with art.
• Le Antiche Mura: A good option in the old town if you want an apartment with a kitchen and a bit more space. Located in a historic building with original stone walls, Le Antiche Mura apartment is close to the cathedral and public parking.
• Find and compare rates at other hotels in Lecce that match your budget, travel style and schedule.

Where to eat in Lecce: Osteria Da Angiulino, Via Principi di Savoia, 24, Lecce. Local specialties, friendly owners (a few words of Italian does wonders), and reasonably priced. Be sure to call ahead and make a reservation as there is a line out the door before this popular place even opens. What to eat: We went for the traditional orecchiette con sugo alla ricotta forte — orecchiette in tomato sauce blended with strong, local ricotta cheese. Homemade, hearty and inexpensive.

8. Steal a kiss on the beach at San Foca, Puglia.

Whether or not it happens to be your 15th wedding anniversary, it’s always a good idea pull the car over along the coast, walk barefoot in the sand together, breathe in the fresh sea air as you explore, and steal a kiss.

Then repeat.

9. Walk the cliffs at Roca Vecchia and Grotta della Poesie, Puglia.

Recent archaeological finds date the ancient site of Roca Vecchia and Grotta della Poesie as far back as to the Bronze Age. Now the area serves as a popular swimming hole. The ancients apparently knew where to party. Modern Italians, too.

Go to the cliff side and watch, if you can stand it, as your fearless-of-heights wife tests your nerves by going right up to the cliff’s edge for a better view of what’s below. (Spoiler alert: A 200-foot drop and the sea.)

10. Stalk stray cats through Italy’s easternmost city – Otranto, Puglia.

During Roman times, Otranto served as an important port for all trade headed east. Nowadays, it’s known more for wide beaches and a picturesque old town overlooking the Adriatic Sea.

Unfortunately, the 11th century cathedral and its renowned mosaics were closed during our visit because of the pause. We opted instead to follow a group of stray cats who happily served as our impromptu guides.

Where to eat in Otranto: La Pignata, Via Rondachi 12, Otranto. One of the most delightful meals of our trip, including a discovery that Primitivo Rose (yes, that’s like white zinfandel) is an appropriate match for local seafood and pasta dishes. What to eat: The highlights of this meal were a starter of cozze gratinate (gratinated mussels) and Vellutata di Ceci e Fagioli con Pomodori Secchi e Gamberetti (mashed chickpeas and beans with sundried tomatoes and prawns).

Where to stay in Otranto: We just stopped in Otranto for lunch, but it does have a charming old town that would be quite beautiful to wander around in the evening and to maybe enjoy another delicious meal at Pignata.

• Profumo di Mare Hotel: In a perfect location right on the beachfront and promenade just a few minute walk from Otranto's old town, castle and cathedral. Many of the rooms have a balcony that faces the beach and sea.
• Alba ad Oriente B&B: Located very close to the old town and Otranto's Castello and Marina Beach, Alba ad Oriente has a modern room with breakfast on the terrace.
• Find a hotel in Otranto that fits your travel style, budget and schedule.

11. Soak up the coastal route south from Otranto to the tippy tip of Italy’s heel, Santa Maria di Leuca, Puglia.

In all our research prior to our trip, why hadn’t anyone told us the drive south of Otranto was so beautiful? We almost skipped the coastal route for something more direct. What a missed opportunity that would have been.

If you have a car, do this drive in southern Puglia. Take a little time, pull off the road frequently to satisfy your curiosity, breathe the air, take photos. Be sure to check out the 16th century watchtowers and elaborate, colorful 17th century Moorish palaces like Santa Cesarea Terme along the way.

12. Celebrate your 15th wedding anniversary with a sunset Aperol spritz at Torre Vado, Puglia.

There seemed no better way to end a beautiful drive along the Puglian coast than with a sunset Aperol spritz at the tip of Italy’s heel. Our trip was meant to celebrate 15 years of marriage. This moment captured us as we were and are, taking stock at an unassuming port-side cafe, sitting in plastic chairs and soaking up a perfect sunset.

Where to sunset Aperol spritz: Albergo Ristorante Pizzeria Al Porticciolo, Torre Vado. Other than the view to the sunset over the sailboats, there’s nothing spectacular about this place. Maybe that’s what made it so special.

13. Stay in a converted palace in old town Gallipoli.

When we pulled into Gallipoli and made a late reservation via the Booking.com app we weren’t expecting to stay in a palace and given a sprawling room whose balcony windows opened onto the ochre-washed light of the old town. It was a welcome surprise upgrade; the owner hadn’t even been aware it was our anniversary.

Where to stay in Gallipoli: Palazzo Flora, Via D'Ospina, 19, Gallipoli. The garden courtyard of the palazzo is terrific. Breakfast was abundant and fresh, one of the nicest along our trip. Rooms range from €50-€82/night depending upon the size of the room…and the number of frescos inside. If Palazzo Flora is full, consider staying at one of these other hotels in or near Gallipolli's old town:

• Domus Dejana: Located near the water in Gallipoli's old town, Domus Dejana has a rooftop terrace with views over the old town and sea. Housed in a traditional, historic home, many of the rooms have their own balconies.
• Antica Rimessa di Gigi Hotel: Located in Gallipoli's old town in a historic building, Antica Rimessa di Gigi has several rooms with high vaulted ceilings with the original stone exposed, but modern features and fixings.
• Dimora Muzio B&B: A good value option in Gallipoli's old town with big rooms and a rooftop terrace with views over the city and sea. Housed in a 17th century building with frescoed walls, Dimora Muzio also includes a restaurant on the ground floor.
• Find another hotel in Gallipoli that matches your budget, travel style and schedule.

14. Enjoy a plate of mussels and a carafe of sparkling wine at Lido Conchiglie, Puglia.

Although you go to eat seafood, the experience is more about the atmosphere. Burly fishermen-looking guys serve as waiters and dish out heaping piles of sea urchins, mussels, fish, and other seafood.

While the menu at La Maruzzella is written on paper tablecloths, the best approach is to point and shoot at the piles of fresh catch out front or to someone else’s dish nearby. For lunch, be sure to arrive early so you're sure to get a table.

Where to eat in Lido Conchiglie: La Maruzzella, Via Cristiforo Colombo, Lido Conchiglie (just outside Gallipoli). What to eat: Best was the huge bowl of mussels and clams. The seafood sampler was acceptable, but perhaps a little over-grilled. Sparkling wine from the tap also a nice touch.

15. Turn back the clock and visit Salice Salentino after the pause.

Our initial intent in visiting Salice Salentino was to source some on-the-ground information about wine tasting. Instead, we found a town stuck in time.

Salice Salentino is the town that time forgot. Everyone else seemed to forget about it, too — except the old men at the local bar and a handful of people on bicycles crossing a desolate main square.

I appreciate old towns like this because they exist on their own terms — not for the tourist, not always spiffy, yet certainly authentic in an untouched sort of way. Salice Salentino is also of the same name as the Italian DOC wine made from the Negroamaro grape, one of the many wines we’d enjoyed along our trip.

16. Buy wine from a gasoline pump dispenser at Produttori Vini Manduria.

Watch locals line up at the wine pumps with their 5-liter jugs for a few Euros fill-up. If you aren’t in the market for pumped wine, you can also taste wines from a local lineup that includes Manduria Primitivo (the local zinfandel-like grape). If Primitivo is too heavy, hot, or fruitacious for you, try a Primitivo Rosato (rosé) that goes especially well with a mezzo plate or seafood in a light red sauce.

Where to find the wine consortium: Produttori Vini Manduria, via Fabio Massimo 19, Manduria.

17. Admire magical olive groves in red clay soil in Puglia.

Clay-pan olive groves dot much of the landscape of inland Puglia. I’m sure the chunky clay soil is essential to the character of the tasty olive oil that run rivulets through notable Puglian cuisine.

As I indicated to my sister in a lengthly dozen-email exchange about Puglian food, “Everything is fresh. But — and I've been thinking about this a lot — the magic, persistent ingredient: olive oil. You get a sauce with a couple of pomodorini [cherry tomatoes] and a bunch of olive oil. And it's incredible. It's as if the olive oil is a flavor activator. And the olive oil here is very good.”

18. Admire the trulli, Puglian stone huts, in the Itria Valley.

If the Hobbits had to suddenly take up residence in southern Italy, they’d likely do so in the trulli dotting the countryside of the Itria Valley. Many of these stone hut structures — often dating to the 14th-15th centuries — were originally built to house agricultural workers or as storage buildings.

Why this style of home became so popular is still a bit of a mystery, however. One appealing theory posited: people built trulli so they could easily dismantle them before the tax collector arrived.

How’s that for a clever tax dodge?

19. Make a new friend at a Masseria (Tourism Farm) in Puglia.

In Puglia, a working farm that also serves as a bed and breakfast is called a masseria. (Think of it as Puglia’s version of what Tuscans call an agritourismo). The masseria we stayed at, Masseria Ferri, included not only our very own 450-year old trullo, but also a friendly dog named Tommy who remained by our side for the stay.

We recommend a picnic dinner with a glass of Primitivo wine while watching the sky change color. Kicking back at a masseria is an excellent way to rest the mind at the end of a road trip. Masseria Ferri also makes its own cheese, wine and olive oil.

Road trip note: We used Masseria Ferri (closest town: Martina Franca) as a base from which to explore various destinations in the Itria Valley. All notable towns are nearby; it's easy to visit several in one day.

20. Wander streets of trulli in Alberobello, Puglia.

The town of Alberobello, Puglia offers a motherlode of trulli. You’ll find its UNESCO old town made up almost entirely of these traditional Puglian homes. The town's popularity, however, means vast crowds of tourists.

Be sure to begin your visit on the northern side of the old town where things are a little less touristy. There, you’ll find families who still live in their 400-500 year old trullo homes.

If you go in early fall, you’ll also find elements of the harvest like walnuts or chestnuts, or as we did, gargantuan garlic heads drying in the open air. When we asked the woman drying it, she told us that it’s sweet garlic and can be sliced and eaten raw in salads.

Stay in a trulli in Alberobello: Some of the trulli of Alberobello have been converted into hotels and B&Bs. It's a fun experience to stay in a trullo home (we did so at the masseria mentioned above) so consider staying overnight in one in Alberobello.

• Trullo de Amicis No 5: Sleep in the quiet of stone trullo right in the center of Alberobello so you can easily explore the town. This place also has a terraced restaurant on site.
• Trullo dell'angolo: Rent your own complete trullo house complete with your own kitchen and bedrooms. The stone walls and traditional construction make them naturally cool in the hot summer months.
• Trulli Monte Pasubio: Stay in the middle of Alberobello's historic trulli center in either your own trullo home or a studio apartment in another historic building.
• Find your own hotel or trullo in Alberobello, Puglia that matches your budget, interests and style.

21. Marvel at small towns with big architecture, like Martina Franca.

Like so many towns in Puglia, Martina Franca was another that made us wonder why we hadn’t heard more of it before.

Architecture in Italy had always been a thing, but the Renaissance re-ordered it and took it up a notch. Martina Franca stands as a fine example of Baroque and Rococo style. Our suggestion: park on the edge of the old town and just get lost in its alleys and plazas. Although we did not eat in Martina Franca, the restaurant menus looked formidable and tempting.

Where to stay in Martina Franca, Puglia: If we weren't already basing ourselves nearby at a masseria in the countryside we would have based ourselves for a few days in Martina Franca to explore this area of Puglia with many cute, historic towns and villages nearby.

• Casa Dolce: Rent your own apartment in a traditional house right in the center of Martina Franca. Having your own place not only gives you a little more room, but it also allows you to bring back foods from your market visits (see below) to enjoy as snacks or meals.
• Savito Guest House and Trulli: In case you don't stay in a trullo in Alberobello or elsewhere, here is your opportunity. Located about a 10 minute walk from Martina Franca's old town, Savito has rooms in traditional trulli that are modern in design and comfort, including a swimming pool, terrace and other amenities.
• Terrazza Sulla Valle: If you want to splurge a little, get a room in a renovated 18th century trullo home and enjoy the terrace with views over the valley. Good location near Martina Franca's old town and offers free parking.
• Find a hotel in Martina Franca, Puglia that matches your travel style, budget and itinerary.

22. Hang with these dudes at the open-air weekly market in Cisternino, Puglia.

Shop like a local, too. Buy black chick peas, a wheel of cheese (or two), a string of peppers, and some smoked meat. And take a photo of the guys who sell it all to you.

Local outdoor fresh markets are on rotation in the region and appear in a different town each day of the week (e.g., in Cisternino on Mondays, Martina Franca on Wednesdays, etc.), so just ask around at your hotel or nearby tourism office to find out which town is hosting the market for that day. Note: go early in the morning as open-air fresh markets usually wind up around lunchtime.

When you finish shopping, drop your goodies off in the car and explore another beautiful old town.

23. Watch grandmothers as they watch you from behind their beaded doorways in old town Ostuni, Puglia.

Grandmas in kitchens peering through the beaded door curtains. They peer from upstairs windows, they stand on balconies. Grandmas, Italian grandmas everywhere. Pay attention and you’ll see them as you make your way. They watch, they survey life, and they see you.

It’s one of the life features we loved about Puglia. Old towns were well lived in with grandmothers poking their heads out of doors to say hello, scold their errant dogs, and mind the laundry. Children’s giggles echoed off cobbled pathways and the smell of home cooking slowly permeated the air just before lunch.

Why go to a museum when you can see life as it has been lived, and it is lived today?

24. Take a dip in the Adriatic Sea…even in October.

Even in early October, graced with sun and favorable currents, the Adriatic Sea is worth a dip or wade.

Perhaps we were just plain lucky with the weather, but we found late September/early October a perfect time to explore this region. Plenty of sunshine and warmth, and no crowds.

Along this stretch of coastline south of Bari you'll find divers – some in wet suits, others without — ranging for octopus (pulpo) along the rocky coast. Vegetarians, turn away. The rest of you pulpo-eaters, this is where lunch and dinner have come from. Divers clean the pulpo and strike them against the rocks, so they’re tender by the time they make it to your plate.

25. Chat with a family drying homemade pasta on the streets of Bari.

A friend on Instagram suggested we seek out “the orecchiette ladies,” local women in Bari whose morning ritual consists of making the signature ear-shaped Puglian pasta. On our final morning, just before heading to the airport, we wandered through the old town in search of the ladies.

Instead, we were lucky enough to meet Grazia and her daughter Maria. Grazia had just finished making three kilos of hand-made orecchiette for her family and neighbors and was drying it outside her home on a wire rack, around which Audrey and I puzzled about.

Through broken Italian, we had a conversation with Grazia and her daughter and understood how they make the orecchiette and prefer to serve it. The favorite: the traditional, orrechiette con cime di rapa (with turnip greens).

Now, before any more time passes, I owe Grazia and Maria a copy of the photos we took. I must put them in the mail, since they don’t have an email address.

A fitting way to close from Puglia.

Note: If you want to learn how to make this local pasta you can do so on this Bari walking tour that includes making your own orechiette.

Map of our Puglia, Italy Road Trip Itinerary

If you travel to Puglia, take some of our advice and then also find a few of your own adventures. Let us know how you get on. And if you come across a guy from San Francisco named Will somewhere on your travels in the province, don’t interrupt him. I suspect he’s still having the time of his life.

The post Puglia, Italy Road Trip: 25 Things to See and Do in Puglia appeared first on Uncornered Market.