Perhaps you've seen all of our photos and stories from our travels in Jordan but what exactly was your two-week itinerary? Where did you go, stay, eat? What did you do in Petra or Wadi Rum?

We've been answering a bunch of “I'm thinking of going to Jordan” emails and need a place to put all of our answers. So here it is: the details of where we stayed, where and what we ate, what we saw and experienced. The whole scoop for one final go-round.

We'd like to thank the Jordan Tourism Board for arranging and sponsoring our trip. We had access to a driver to facilitate transport around the country and a host who provided us heaps of information, fielded questions from all angles, and acted as impromptu interpreter. Many of the places we stayed – luxury hotels and nature reserve lodges- were a spec beyond our usual travel budget. Trust us, we were grateful for the comfort and luxury.

But we are getting questions from readers whose budgets span the range. So in elaborating our itinerary, we include a few notes (inline and at the end) regarding how to carve a similar path through Jordan using some less expensive and independent travel alternatives.

If you're curious about a particular area, you can use the table of contents below to skip ahead.

Two Week Itinerary in Jordan

Amman

What to do in Amman:

Walk through thousands of years of history and layers of civilizations at the Citadel. Stroll along Rainbow Street and visit Wild Jordan, then take a dip into downtown Jordan to visit fabric, spice and antique shops and sample the produce at the fresh market area behind Hussein Mosque.

Where to eat in Amman:

You will certainly not go hungry in Amman, and you can eat very well without spending a lot of money. Al-Quds falafel on Rainbow Street, knafeh at Habibah, hummus and foul at Hashem, dinner at Kan Zaman (converted 19th century farmhouse and village on outskirts of Amman where you can eat well and get decked out in traditional Jordanian dress to boot).

Where to sleep in Amman:

For a splurge, try the Four Seasons Amman. We began our journey here, went knee-deep into breakfast buffet and had every need tended to and then some.

When we returned after being on the road for 10 days, we were welcomed back by name, quite possibly by every member of the staff. The oriental sweets and chocolate platter are mind-benders. The whole experience was personal and professional. No wonder this is one of the top properties in the Middle East.

Amman has many different types of hotels and guest houses for all budgets and styles.

Jerash

Just a few hours outside of Jordan's capital city of Amman lies Jerash, a city playing host to a rather impressive collection of Roman ruins. No “ruin fatigue” here: the history of Jerash – layer upon layer of civilizations, from Greek to Roman to Umayyad, keeps you wondering about the cycles of cultures and religions — and all the people who walked the same streets over the last 3000 years.

The South Theatre was built by the Romans in the 1st century AD. Its layout highlights the Roman skill of acoustic design. If you stand at the central acoustic point inside the theater and belt out your favorite tune or poem, every person in that 3,000 seat theatre will hear you loud and clear. Impressive.

What to do in Jerash:

We picked up a local guide (20 JD or $28) at the entrance gate to show us around. The experience wasn't only an overview of the history of Jerash, but a broader lesson on ancient civilizations.

Although touristy, the chariot races and 11 AM Roman soldier reenactment at Jerash are actually kind of fun. What saves the show from uber-cheesiness is the sense of humor of the narrator. If you get there early, wander down to the stables and the caretaker will share each horse's personal story.

Where to eat in Jerash:

The Lebanese House. A really great mezze spread. Not a bad dish among them. Save some room for the grilled meat.

Where to sleep in Jerash:

We didn't spend the night here as we continued onto Rasun the same day. However, we know other travelers who have enjoyed spending the night in Jerash so as to have more time exploring the ancient ruins and to better understand the modern city. You can compare rates at hotels in Jerash here.

Ajloun and Rasun

What to do in Rasun and Aljoun:

Visit the Soap House and Calligraphy House to see two projects involving local women in the production of natural olive oil and herb soap and calligraphy products.

When I think “shisha in Jordan,” where will my first memory go? I'll remember hanging with the guys at the corner store in Rasun. If you ever trouble for what to do on a weeknight in a Jordanian village, get yourself to the corner store for a little shisha and mix it up with some conversation. While the ambiance may not be 5-star, the people probably will be.

Note: Shisha (otherwise known as hubbly bubbly, also called nargila) is syrup-flavored tobacco (e.g., lemon mint, green apple, melon) smoked through a water pipe, or hookah. It is common to end dinner or spend an evening with friends smoking shisha. It's mainly smoked by men, but women also partake depending on the circumstances. Shisha is not an illicit substance, and smoking it will not have you swarmed by Drug Enforcement Agency (DEA) agents.

If we had more time: We would have done the trek from Ajloun Reserve to Ajloun castle.

Where to eat in Rasun:

At a family home in Rasun. Another delicious spread of mezze followed by simmered chicken served with roasted green wheat. You'll also get the chance to see a Jordanian home with traditionally decorated guest and living areas.

Where to sleep in Ajloun:

Ajloun Cabins and Bungalows at the Ajloun Nature Reserve. Heated cabins come with a view of the valley and Ajloun Castle. On clear days you can see all the way to Jerusalem. In the summer months, you can also rent pre-pitched tents (a cheaper option).

Alternative: In order to arrange dinner in a family home (about 8-10 JD/$12-$14) or to do a home stay in Rasun instead of staying at the lodge, contact the Ajloun Forest Reserve (+962 2 6475673) to make arrangements. The tourist manager there speaks English and can set you up with a family meal or homestay with a local family.

Azraq

What to do in Azraq:

Although the Umayyad-era castle of Quseir Amra, one of Jordan’s UNESCO sites and Desert Castles near the town of Azraq, may not look like much from afar, it’s worth a peek to see the frescoes inside. What makes them a bit unusual: images of naked women in an 8th century Muslim palace. You can also visit the Caravanserai (Qasr Khan) and Azraq Castle (where Lawrence of Arabia once stayed).

A visit to the nearby Azraq Wetlands is an important reminder of the harm humans do to the environment. What was once a thriving oasis and stopover area for migratory birds and other wildlife was drained of its water to supply Amman and other cities. The oasis died. Now the reserve is trying to pump water back into it and finding that recreating an oasis is an uphill battle.

Where to eat in Azraq:

At a family home. Another delicious home-cooked meal served in a friendly home. As the family was of Druze descent, there were some interesting specialties. (Contact the Azraq Lodge at +962 5 3835017 to arrange home stays and visits with local families for lunch or dinner.)

Where to sleep in Azraq;

Azraq Lodge. Alternatively, if the lodge is above your budget, consider visiting Azraq as a day trip from Amman.

Ma’in Hot Springs

What to do in Ma'in:

Relax and soak in the Evason Ma’in hot springs. You feel like a bit like Superman afterwards thanks to the combination of extra oxygen from being at 300 meters below sea level and the minerals from the water. This place is a fabulous way to unwind — we even met a woman who was there for a week to, as she puts it, “check out.”

We luxuriated in the hot spring-fed pool. There is also a public hot springs a few hundred meters away (entrance around $12-$15/day). You can catch buses to and from Ma’in from Amman.

Where to sleep in Ma'in:

Ma'in Hot Springs Resort and Spa. Designed to relax the mind (and no, this isn't something we read in a brochure). Calming and cozy. A really nice experience. If you are going to stretch your budget in Jordan, this is the place to do it.

The Dead Sea to Dana Biosphere Reserve

What to do at Dana Village and Biosphere Reserve:

Drive along the Dead Sea and stop in several villages along the way (use coffee breaks as an excuse). We really enjoyed Ghor el Safi where we met this friendly shepherd. Continue along the FIFA route to Tafila and Dana village.

Surrounded by red rocks and canyons, you just might think you’re in the American desert southwest. Make sure you stop for tea at this place – a simple, hard-to-beat view of the surrounding valleys and deserts.

When you arrive in Dana village, walk up to the spring above the village at sunset for a beautiful view of the canyon. This walk is also nice in the early morning when you run into shepherds on donkeys taking their animals to the hills for the day.

What to eat in Dana:

Mansaf — a traditional Jordanian dish with saffron rice and lamb simmered in a yogurt sauce — at Dana Guest House. While they don't offer this every night, it’s worth asking whether they can serve it during your visit, particularly if you are traveling with a group.

Sleep: Dana Guest House. For a less expensive alternative, check out Dana Tower Hotel smack in the middle of Dana village. A double room, including breakfast and dinner is around 30-35 JD ($42-$49). Many types of rooms are on offer, but try to get one with a view.

Showback Castle and Little Petra

What to do at Little Petra and Showback Castle:

Perched strategically on a hill where no one could surprise attack is Showback castle, one of the Crusader castles built in the 12th century. The view of the surrounding valleys from the castle is quite impressive, as is the scenery along the way to Little Petra.

Take a peek into the water cistern at Little Petra that the Nebataeans created over 2,000 years ago to collect and store water for the caravans (with up to 2,000 camels) coming through the city. It’s impressive. The canyon at Little Petra is a nice preview of what you’ll see later in (Big) Petra.

From the entrance of Little Petra you can drive up into the hills to get a great view of Wadi Araba. Nice place to make a fire and drink some Bedouin whiskey (i.e., Tea).

If we had more time: Hike from Little Petra through to the Monastery at Petra onto the main Petra sights in Wadi Musa (around 5 hours).

Petra

What to do in Petra:

Visit Petra by Night (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday at 8 PM) when you first arrive to whet your appetite for the main sight.

For our full-day visit, we picked up a local guide at the entrance gate and walked through the Siq to the Treasury, past the Wall of Facades to the Royal Tombs where the guide left us on our own to climb the steps up to the Monastery and the End of the World. It’s quite a lot to do in one day, so consider splitting this up into a couple of days and tacking on some sidetrip hikes.

If we had more time: We would have hiked several of the routes like the High Point of Sacrifice and spent more time at the area around the Royal Tombs. Additional details on visiting Petra and Wadi Musa can be found at the end of this post.

Where to sleep in Petra:

We stayed at the Mövenpick Petra, which was comfortable and in a convenient location. However, Petra is full of hotels of all different budgets and styles.

Where to eat in Petra:

Cooking class at Petra Kitchen where you can learn how to make a soup, various plates of mezze, and a main dish.

Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum, the colorful, iconic desert valley many of us know from watching Lawrence of Arabia. It remains the land of the Bedouins who move their tents of woven goat hair, the season depending. Whether they make their way camel by day or pickup by night, they seem to know the placement of every rock and every turn across the sand.

The golden sand and red rocks form the heart of the land that is Wadi Rum, but it's the Bedouin people living there — as they have done for ages — that give it its soul.

What to do in Wadi Rum:

Hire a Bedouin driver with a pick up a truck to take you into the desert to view the Seven Pillars, the rock bridge, and the vastness that is Wadi Rum. Take tea in a Bedouin tent (ask if it’s possible to see how abud, Bedouin bread, is made).

Ride a camel (be careful when they launch into a run, it's tough on the bum). It may take several days for your rear end to recover, but you'll have a whole new respect for both the animals and their masters. And when you look out across the desert, consider the thousand-camel caravans that once crossed the valley.

You can arrange all of this from the entrance gate or from the camp area where you choose to stay.

Where to sleep at Wadi Rum:

Captain’s Desert Camp. The first of its kind in this area. This tent camp (Bedouin tents, not camping tents) runs a tight ship with clean, mini Bedouin tents and a large eating and gathering area. Almost everyone employed is a Bedouin from the community.

There are also several other Bedouin tent camping options in the area. Compare rates for other camps and accommodation in Wadi Rum.

What to eat at Wadi Rum:

Zarb (Bedouin barbecue) at Captain’s Desert Camp. Zarb consists of a huge tray of meat and vegetables cooked in an underground barbeque pit and covered with plastic and sand to keep in heat and moisture.

Aqaba and the Red Sea

What to do in Aqaba:

Scuba diving with Sea Guard. Professional, friendly and helpful. If you haven't been diving in a while, they'll help with everything so you won't feel lost. The standard trip consists of two dives in the morning followed by lunch. Fortunately, you don’t have to go terribly deep to see lots of colorful coral, Lion Fish, Parrot Fish, Puffer Fish and more.

Where to sleep in Aqaba:

InterContinental Aqaba

Where to eat in Aqaba:

Fish In restaurant at Kempinski Hotel. The mezze alone is almost enough for a full meal with its twelve tasting dishes, but try to save room for the fish cooked in a clay pot. (We also got a peek into the rooms here – each one has a view of the sea, including a bathtub view. Spiffy property.)

Feynan

What to do in Feynan

Take a walk into the canyon near Feynan EcoLodge for a glimpse into Wadi Dana. In the evening, drink tea in a Bedouin tent and see what life is like for the locals of Wadi Feynan. End the day by hanging out on the rooftop terrace and watching the stars proliferate as darkness falls.

If we had more time: Take some additional treks around Feynan Ecolodge, including the sunrise and sunset hikes. The trek to Dana Village (about 6 hours) and the multi-day trek to Petra both sound great.

Where to Sleep in Feynan:

Feynan EcoLodge. This place takes the “eco” in its name seriously – no electricity (candle-powered), organic vegetarian food, solar-powered hot water, local employment and a strong commitment to tourism benefiting the local community.

Beautiful and peaceful setting, too. It's a hard place to leave.

We've been told that if you contact them directly well in advance you might be able to swing some good discounts.

Eat: Organic vegetarian buffet at Feynan EcoLodge.

Zikra Initiative and Mujib Reserve

What to do:

Spend the day with the women of Ghor al Mazra’a and Zikra Initiative. Hands on training to make shrak (traditional Bedouin bread) and a handful of local foods and handicrafts. A wonderful, uplifting experience. One of the highlights of our entire trip to Jordan. Read more about our immersive community tourism experience with local women and families.

If we had more time: Trek through the canyons at Mujib Nature Reserve. There is a self-guided trek for several hours that looks like a lot of fun. Be prepared to get a bit wet in the river canyons, depending on the season.

Longer treks with a guide are also available. Most routes are only open from April to October due to the possibility of flash floods.

You can spend the night at the nearby Mujib Chalet overlooking the Dead Sea.

The Dead Sea

What to do at the Dead Sea:

Float on top of the world's most highly concentrated bathing-friendly saltwater. Try reading the newspaper in total bouyancy, then cover yourself with mud and pretend you’re an alien. The combination of the Dead Sea minerals and water, the mud self-treatment, and the oxygen rich air will make you feel truly amazing.

Where to eat at the Dead Sea:

Luigi’s Italian restaurant at Mövenpick Dead Sea. The property features a series of village-style rooms and a courtyard outdoor seating area with after dinner belly dancing and shisha.

Where to sleep at the Dead Sea:

For a splurge, stay at the 5-star Kempinski Hotel Ishtar. It's right on the coast so you can easily go to float on top of the Dead Sea and covers yourself with healing mud.

Biblical and Baptism Sites: Bethany Beyond Jordan, Mount Nebo, and Madaba

What to do in Bethany Beyond Jordan and Madaba:

Visit Bethany Beyond Jordan to see the baptism site of Jesus. When you make it down to the Jordan River, you’ll almost be able to touch Israel on the other side — talk about close neighbors! Take a walk around Mount Nebo, where Moses saw the promised land across the valley in Jericho.

Finally, enjoy the mosaics that line the floors of the ancient churches of Madaba. The most fascinating is the 1400-year old map of the holy land (pictured above) on the floor of St. George’s church. We'd like to know where those missing mosaic pieces went.

Where to eat in Madaba

Outrageous amounts of food served at Haret Jdoudna. Another restaurant that attracts tour groups, but the food is tasty and the courtyard pleasant.

Independent Travel in Jordan

Transportation in Jordan

• Public buses: Amman has a northern and southern bus station with buses headed to most places you'll want to go throughout Jordan. Fares seem quite reasonable (e.g., less than $4 from Amman to Petra). Information and signs are in Arabic, so you may need to enlist the help of some friendly locals to help you find the right bus and get off at the right stop.
• Rental Cars: It’s possible to rent a basic car for around $30-$35/day, which might be a good fit if you’d like some flexibility to stop off in random villages and take turns up, into and around canyons. If you’ve got a family or group of people, this could be both economical and fun.
• Hitchhiking: We saw quite a few locals hanging out on the side of the road looking for rides to the next town, and we're told that hitchhiking is quite common and safe for tourists. I don't believe I’d hitchhike as a single female traveler because of cultural norms (we spoke with a single German female traveler who confirmed this based on firsthand hitchhiking experiece), but otherwise hitchhiking would be a good option if you are a couple and you need to get to the next town or village along your way.

Accommodation in Jordan

From our inquiries, accommodation is likely to be the biggest expense for independent budget travelers. As anywhere, you can find hotels of different prices and qualities, but expect more European prices rather than Asian prices.

Many of the Nature Reserves also have lodges, but those prices can also be high for budget-minded non-Jordanians (as in $80-$100+). If you come in the summertime, some offer less expensive camping options ($60-$70). A homestay network is beginning to form in a few areas.

Food in Jordan

For inexpensive and quick food, you can find shawerma and falafel sandwiches in most cities for a few dollars. It’s also possible to order mezze (hummus, salad, bread, eggplant dip, and other small plates) for a meal – trust us, you will be more than full and won’t need to order a main dish.

We’ve also indicated below where you can arrange meals in a family home. Not only is the food delicious, but these meals also give you a feel for what life is like for ordinary Jordanians. Read our comprehensive overview of Jordanian food.

Safety in Jordan

We've been asked by several people whether Jordan is safe and whether they should consider traveling there or whether they should consider rescheduling or canceling their trip there. Never during our visit did we feel unsafe in Jordan in the least.

Quite the contrary, actually — we felt very welcome everywhere we went, from cities to villages, urban to rural. Although Jordan is situated in the Middle East, a neighborhood with no shortage of political and diplomatic challenges, Jordan is peaceful and has a long history of being so. Also, with the culture of hospitality and the importance of guests in Jordan we felt that if anything unexpected were to happen during our visit, we would be well-taken care of by locals.

The post Our Jordan Itinerary: The Details appeared first on Uncornered Market.

If you emerge from a visit to Jordan and you haven’t had enough to eat, you’ve clearly done something wrong. Or in the words of an American friend of Jordanian heritage, “If you don’t leave Jordan heavier, we haven’t done our job.”

As we navigated the rivers of Jordanian food, we found that Jordanian cuisine makes copious use of sesame (the seed or as tahini paste) and herbs like thyme, sage and mint. Together, it all comes together in a multi-plate orbit of dishes and flavors, usually grabbed with a bit of bread in hand, shared by a host, among friends and among family.

And the goal? Eat ‘til you drop. At least that’s what we did.

Let’s dig in. Sahtain!

Note: As you read below, some of you might be saying: “Wait, isn’t that dish from ________?” (fill in your favorite country from the Middle East). Unless we call out a dish as Jordanian, it's something we ate or found quite a lot of during our visit. That makes it present in Jordanian meals. Does that mean it originated from Jordan? Maybe, maybe not. Many of these dishes – and their variations – are found across the region and may have originated in places like Lebanon, Syria, Egypt and throughout the Mediterranean.

Jordanian Mezze

By far the most dominant style of eating in Jordan, mezze is the small plate, salad, appetizer, community style eating, aided by dipping, chunking and otherwise scooping with bread. Mezze plates are typically rolled out before larger main dishes, but you’ll find that they will easily fill you up by themselves and leave you wondering, “Now why are they bringing out those mains?”

Hummus (hummous)

Chick peas boiled and blended to perfect smoothness with tahini paste, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and perhaps topped with a little parsley. By the way, 3 out of 4 Jordanians surveyed indicated that hummus was “probably invented in Syria.”

Kubbeh (kibbeh)

Herbed, minced meat covered in a crust of bulgur (crushed wheat), then fried. Shaped like an American football.

Kubbeh Nayyeh

Steak tartare meats Middle Eastern cuisine. A minced meat and bulgur mixture similar to ordinary kubbeh, but the meat is served raw. Rich and exceptionally delicious when eaten with a garlic yogurt sauce. Our memories for this go to Fakhr Al-Din in Amman.

Falafel

Those delightful little balls of fried chickpea flour and the best of Middle Eastern spice. Eat them on their own, dip them in every mezze. You'll notice that Jordanian falafel balls tend to come in smaller sizes than the falafel you are accustomed to at home.

Tabouleh

A salad of finely chopped parsley and mint turned with bulgur, tomatoes, onion and seasoned with olive oil and lemon juice. Provides a balance of tartness to all those beans.

Rocket salad

Rucola (argula, rocket) leaves in Jordan are pretty large and when they are tossed with olive oil and lemon, delightful.

Fattoush

Chopped vegetable salad (e.g., tomatoes, cucumbers, radish, etc.) tossed with pieces of dry or fried flatbread and seasoned with olive oil, lemon juice and sumac. The crunchiness of the bread is a nice contrast to the soft vegetables.

Labaneh

Creamy yogurt, so thick you can spread it on your flat bread and make a sandwich. Becomes rather addictive, especially with za'atar and olive oil in the morning for breakfast. (See breakfast below!)

Moutabel (Moutabal)

(Also mutabal, mutabel.) Roasted, pureed eggplant with garlic. A great deal of confusion ensued when the first dish of moutabel emerged and we said “Babba ghanoush!” (as this dish is often referred to in the U.S.). We were swiftly corrected as to the Jordanian point of view. Also, after a reader commented to clarify below, it seems both begin with roasted eggplant, after which pomegranate molasses or chopped pomegranate, walnuts, tomatoes and parsley are added to baba ghanoush and peppers, chive (or even mint), garlic, tahini and yogurt are added to make moutabel, the preferred Jordanian dish.

Babba ghanoush

Roasted eggplant, cut into pieces and tossed with tomatoes and onions. More like a salad than a dip.

Makdous

Stuffed pickled eggplant, said to increase appetite — something we cannot imagine possible at a Jordanian table.

Haloumi/ j'ibna bedhah

Semi-soft white cheese. Not quite as salty, crumbly and dry as feta cheese, but somewhere in the neighborhood.

Zetun

Literally “olive.” Olive salad cut with carrots, green pepper, chili, and olive oil. Great way to clear the palate.

Foul (ful maddamis)

Crushed fava beans served with a variety of toppings such as olive oil, lemon juice, parsley, chili pepper, sumac and more. A hearty dish.

Pickled vegetables

Jordanians seem to enjoy pickled anything – carrots, radishes, cucumbers, cauliflower, and whatever other pickle-worthy vegetables might be around. Just about every mezze features a plate of these to add some tang and tart to the meal.

Dolma (also, Warag Aynab)

Grape leaves filled with herbed, minced vegetables, meat and rice.

Manakesh (manaqish)

Flatbread dough usually topped with and an olive oil and za'atar blend. Other varieties may include cheese or ground meat.

At breakfast, you'll often find a selection of mezze dishes above, especially hummus, labaneh, and haloumi, but you'll usually also find bowls of the following:

Za'atar – a mixture of thyme and sesame seeds. You'll sometimes find oregano, sage, or sumac also mixed in.

Olive oil

Tasty and plentiful, olive oil is one of the cornerstones of Jordanian food. For breakfast, dip your flatbread into the olive oil, then into the za'atar. Add olive oil to your labaneh and sprinkle za'atar on top, and you've got yourself the most divine of Jordanian breakfasts.

Sandwiches

Ara'yes

A word literally meaning bride, ara'yes are spice mincemeat-filled oven-baked flatbread sandwiches. A bit on the greasy side, but solid Jordanian street food that hits the spot.

Main Dishes

Fatet Batinjan

A traditional dish of the Druze people composed of labaneh (thick yogurt), roasted eggplant and minced meat. Rich, creamy and addictive. One of our favorites! Our memories go to a host family in Azraq for this one.

Galayet Bandora

Tomatoes sauteed and stewed with garlic, olive oil, salt, and topped with pine nuts. During our visit to Ghor al Mazra'a, fried eggplant was also added. Delicious.

Suniyat Dijaj

Chicken baked with potatoes, tomatoes, and onions. What makes this dish really special is the aromatic combination of spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper, allspice and cardamom. A dish on the make-it-yourself menu at Petra Kitchen Jordanian cooking class.

Mansaf

A traditional Jordanian/Bedouin meal made from meat (usually goat) cooked in a mixture of dehydrated salted yogurt balls reconstituted with water. The meat is simmered for several hours until tender and is then served on a large tray atop a hill of rice. Mansaf is usually eaten with bread like shrak (traditional flat bread) and with your hands from the community tray.

Zarb

Bedouin barbecue. Meat and vegetables cooked in a large underground pit. It's as much an experience to watch the barbecue rack being exhumed from the ground as it is to eat its contents! For a zarb experience, check out Captain's in Wadi Rum.

Makloubeh (maglouba)

Also known as “upside-down chicken”, makloubeh is a casserole comprised of layers of rice, vegetables and meat. And where does the upside-down come into play? It's cooked in one direction and served in the other.

Kofta in Tahini Sauce

Spiced, ground meat baked in a sea of tahini, topped with thinly sliced potatoes and pine nuts. Rich and decadent. Our memories of this go to Haret Jdoudna in Madaba.

Breads

Kubz (Pita)

Literally, “ordinary” bread. Bread with pockets (don't call it pita!). You'll find it everywhere, every meal it seems.

Shrak

The traditional Jordanian bread thrown to great thinness before being tossed onto a hot iron griddle that's shaped like an inverted wok. Read about a real-life lesson on how to make shrak.

Abud

A dense, unleavened Bedouin bread baked directly in a wood fire by burying in ash and covering with hot embers.

Sweets and Desserts

Knafeh

A decadent dessert made from a gooey, white cheese base with semolina bits baked on top and covered in sweet syrup. Best eaten at Habibeh (Habiba) in downtown Amman, Jordan.

Halawa (Halva)

From the Arabic meaning sweet. A breakfast side or sweet-by-itself made of honey- or sugar-sweetened tahini sesame paste and infused and topped with a variety of bits, including pistachio.

Harisa

A semolina- or farina-based cake soaked in sweet syrup.

Oriental Sweets

While these morsels were not specifically Jordanian, they were exceptional, surprisingly light, and a knockout to look at. Thanks to the Four Seasons Amman for this spread. Keep your eyes out for sweet shops to create your own. (From left to right: Baklawa, Asabea, Mabrumeh, Asabea with Cashew, Ush Bulbul, Asabea, Burma.)

Drinks

Tea

In Jordan, tea is the drink of choice and can range from black tea to herbal (with any combination of sage, thyme, mint and even rosemary and verbena – wonderful for the tummy after all those beans) to black-herbal blends.

We’ve never really been tea aficionados, but Jordan brought us one step closer. Be sure to check out the Jordanian herbal teas from Wild Jordan. You’ll find them at the various nature reserve lodges across the country’s reserves.

Coffee

In our experience, coffee in Jordan comes in two approaches, “Arabic” coffee and Turkish-style coffee.

Arabic coffee

This is typically the domain of the Bedouins and consists of ground fire-roasted beans and cardamom drawn thin and served in espresso-sized servings. Read more about the tradition and ritual behind Arabic coffee here.

Turkish-style coffee

This is the sort you'll get at a roadside stand. It is significantly stronger than its Arabic brother. Water is heated in a long-handled metal cup and the grounds (and any sugar) are mixed in as the combination is brewed over a gas flame to bubbling. Some of the hottest coffee on the planet. Order it without sugar (order with your thumbs down), “medium” sweet (still very sweet, thumbs to the side), full sweet (instant cavities, thumbs up).

Lime-mint juice

Bits of just about every shade of green you could imagine. Refreshing and cleansing.

Jordanian wine

Although alcohol does not feature prominently in Jordan, it’s clear that Jordan has vestiges of the ancient Mediterranean instincts of grape harvesting and wine-making. We only tasted a few bottles during our visit, but we were surprised by the drinkability of Jordanian wine, in particular a Pinot Noir from St. George winery.

Spice Shops and Markets in Amman

Spice shops — home of the fragrant, the tactile, the vivid, the rich — are some of our favorite places to visit on our travels. And no less so this one in downtown Amman, Jordan.

From dates to dried artichokes, from cardamom to coffee beans. Dried, crushed, powdered and shaved. You name it, this place seemed to have it.

If only we could communicate the beauty of the aroma of the air. That would be a supreme technical achievement. But for now, you'll just have to enjoy this photo and trust us.

Behind the Hussein Mosque is a lively food market made up several covered alleys filled with vegetable and fruit vendors. Lively, fun, colorful, and a great place to learn even more about Jordanian food. The streets near the mosque are also filled with small shops selling everything from tea to spices to homeopathic curses. So, if markets and spice stores are your thing explore the streets around the Hussein Mosque. Show a little curiosity and be prepared for lots of fun interactions with local vendors and shoppers.

The post From Mezze to Mansaf: Eating Our Way Through Jordan appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Whereas we sometimes feel like we know the Romans and Greeks when we visit the ruined cities they left behind, the Nabataeans, the mysterious ancient civilization behind Petra, are people we need to meet. Over 2600 years ago, they managed to carve a rather sophisticated water transport system out of slot canyons and valleys. Their sophisticated existence made their city a key caravan route stopover.

When most people hear the name Petra, images of its famed Treasury dance in their heads. More than that, Petra and the surrounding Wadi Musa (Moses Valley) is an experience. If the archaeological remains aren't themselves enough, you get to enjoy them in the context of red sandstone canyons whose colors change as the day advances.

No wonder Petra and Wadi Musa appear on so many Bucket Lists and “Do Before You Die” lists. Check. Open up the audio slideshow below to see why. (The music track is a clip from the live Bedouin rebab performance at Petra By Night.)

Practical Details for Visiting Petra

Transport to Petra

Public buses leaving from Amman’s southern bus station take around 3 hours and cost around $4. (Note: we didn’t take this bus; this information was provided to us).

Where to Stay in Petra

There is accommodation of all kinds in and around Petra, from dorm rooms in hostels to fancy 5-star hotels. We stayed at the Mövenpick Resort Petra. Certainly not the cheapest accommodation option in town, but if you do have the budget it is quite nice and convenient.

Tickets to Petra

For foreign tourists, the entrance fee is 50 JD ($70) for one day, 57 JD ($80) for two and 60 JD ($84) for three days.

As entrance fees are rather high and there is a lot of ground to cover at Petra, our recommendation would be to get a two or three day pass, take your time to enjoy the main sights, and take some hikes or short walks in the valley.

Finding a Guide for Petra

Given the breadth of history at Petra, we enjoyed having a local guide take us around for over three hours. There is an office for local guides at the entrance gate to Petra; each guide is a local and has received at least one year of training to achieve certification. Again, the price is not insignificant (50 JD/$70) so we recommend grouping with several people to share costs.

You can also wander around on your own. And if you choose to ride a donkey or camel, your driver may serve as an impromptu guide.

Petra by Night

If there's any icon associated with Jordan and its history, it must be the stunning facade of the Treasury at Petra. We were fortunate enough to be introduced to the crown jewel of this ancient Nebataean city at night. If you think the Treasury looks incredible in the light of day, check out what it feels like when lit only by the warm light of hundreds of luminaries (paper bag candles) laid at its base.

So, if you are planning a visit to Petra, we recommend beginning it with Petra by Night (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday nights at 8:30 PM, but double check times in advance). To walk the siqs, the narrow canyons that form the road to the Treasury, by candlelight is a work-of-art experience. Once you arrive at the base of the Treasury, you'll be treated to a visual that's nothing short of incredible.

After arriving, you'll sit on the ground, enjoy a cup of hot tea and hear two rounds of traditional Bedouin music — one played by a man with a rebab (a traditional stringed instrument) and one by a man with a flute who follows up his performance with a short story. We have to admit that when we first heard Petra by Night would include “traditional music” we cringed. Traditional music shows can often be cheesy and over-the-top. For Petra by Night, not at all. The performance was simple and very tastefully done.

You can buy tickets for Petra by Night (17 JD) at the Petra entrance gate or at travel agents in town. Our advice is to arrive at the gates a bit early so you can get ahead of the crowd and secure a front row seat at the Treasury.

When you see Petra — its canyons, its history, its icons — in all its various lights of day after seeing it at night, you will be fulfilling a piqued curiosity.

Hikes around Petra

These are why we suggest spending two or three days at Petra. This way, you can enjoy some sightseeing and some hiking without wiping yourself out in one day.

We thank Ma’moun Farajat, our local guide in Petra, for pointing out these treks and providing us with this information.

1. The High Place of Sacrifice (3 hours, medium difficulty)

The start of this path is just past the Street of Facades. A great view of the city from above and interesting tombs and carvings on the way down at Wadi Farash.

2. Almadras (3.5 to 4.5 hours, difficult)

This path begins about 150 meters away from the Obelisk Tomb. The highlight of this path is the ability to see the Treasury from the top of the mountain. The path continues to the High Place of Sacrifice and Wadi Farash.

3. The Monastery (2 options)

A. The regular path (1.5 hours, medium difficulty) starts from the restaurants and will take you 800 steps up to the Monastery monument with a chance to see “The End of the World” overlook to Wadi Araba and the Israel heights. (We did this, highly recommended.)

B. Start from Little Petra and climb up to the Monastery and back down again to the restaurant area. This is more difficult, requires a guide and takes around 8 hours. But, having seen both Little Petra and the Monastery and some of the areas in between, it looks like it would be a great hike.

The post Petra and Jordan’s Wadi Musa [Audio Slideshow] appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Bedouins. Before our visit to Jordan, the term conjured an image of mysterious desert-bound, tunic-wearing nomads.

While in Jordan, we met our share of Bedouins — some camel collectors and shepherds, others guides and businessmen. Upwards of 40% of the Jordanian population is of Bedouin heritage. As a result, Jordanian hospitality, wisdom and culture are all very much a product of their Bedouin roots.

As our Bedouin hosts shared some of their protocols, their wisdom, and their clever ways of looking at the world, we took note. Here's what we learned.

10 Lessons from Jordan's Bedouins

1.“Life is short. Don’t make it difficult on yourself.”

As a guest in his tent, I asked Abu Abdullah, a Bedouin living in Feynan: “What is it that brings happiness to your life?”

Though he added a few other items, he ended with the quote above.

Let us be the first to note this is easier said than done.

2. Arabic coffee: It's all about ritual.

The subject of Arabic coffee is fascinating. First off, it’s not like the dark, rich coffee most of us have become accustomed to. Instead, it’s made by roasting coffee beans over a fire and grinding them with a hefty dose of cardamom pods. The result is like no coffee you know — something aromatic yet thin, served espresso style.

The host will make the coffee over a hot fire. The first cup he pours will be his — to test the coffee to make sure it is acceptable. The second cup will be for you, the guest.

If you find yourself in a Bedouin tent and you are served Arabic coffee, here’s what you do. Graciously accept the first cup, holding it by the rim. Drink it without placing the cup on the ground. If you would like another cup, hand your cup back to the host for a refill. If you don't want any more to drink, hand the cup back to the host and give the cup a little wiggle, a signal that you are finished.

Never ask for a third cup and don’t put the cup on the ground – that is, unless you have a request or an important issue to discuss with the host (e.g., marriage, family dispute).

Discussing important issues around a fire over shots of spiced coffee sounds rather peaceful to us. Next up: United Nations, Arabic coffee, Bedouin tent.

Now, you might think that no one will notice your cup if it accidentally ends up on the ground. Trust me, the host will notice instantly. I startled one of our Bedouin hosts by placing my cup on the ground and had to back myself out of the situation with a bit of humor.

3. Tea = Bedouin whiskey.

When you travel in Jordan, you’ll find that the social lubricant of choice is not alcohol, but tea. Wherever you go, expect to be invited to drink some. Take it slowly and enjoy the time together with your host.

A good Bedouin host always has a good fire going — for the next pot of tea or coffee.

4. If you set up camp near someone else, you must invite them to dinner.

New to your latest Bedouin neighborhood? If you are, you must introduce yourself and invite your neighbors to a feast of your making. Bedouin happiness, after all, is dependent on good relations with one’s neighbors.

So true is this that the wife of one of the Bedouins we visited in Wadi Rum was on the hook for such a meal the day we visited.

5. Bread-baking needs no oven.

Nor a bread-maker. So long as you have a charcoal fire (remember how important that is?) and dough, you are good to go.

In Wadi Rum, we dropped in on a Bedouin tent for tea and coffee and a mid-afternoon snack of abud (or arboud), the Bedouin bread. The raw dough, after kneading, is literally dropped right into the charcoal and hot ashes. Its baking is closely tended to by the careful placement of hot embers.

So you might be thinking: I bet that bread tasted awful.

Think again. Although it was dense (basically unleavened, non-rising dough), the abud (or arboud) was rather tasty. When the bread round emerged from the fire, it was initially covered with hot ash, but our host gave it a good beating and dusting off, and whatever little dust remained actually enhanced its taste.

We will try this at home.

6. You must share water, food and fire.

The three elements essential to Bedouin living. That is, besides camels.

Even if these are scarce for your family, it’s still your duty to share them with others. Hoarding is grounds for Bedouin ex-communication.

7. The Bedouin sixth sense.

Take a drive out into the desert with a Bedouin at night in search of the stars and a good place to enjoy shisha and a fire, and you’ll wonder two things: “How did we get here?” and “How do we get out?”

Bedouins seems to know their way – over dunes, between peaks and through featureless expanses — in a manner that transcends direction and mapping.

This is the Bedouin sixth sense, one that evolved due to all those centuries in the desert.

8. Guest as prisoner?

It’s not at all unusual for Jordanian meals to feature ten times as much food as might be humanly possible for the guests present to consume.

Perhaps at the root of all this hospitality is the fact that Bedouins are honor-bound to the best and highest treatment of their guests. So much so that they themselves joke, “You are our guest; you are our prisoner.”

9. When you return home at night with your camels and sheep, place your mobile phone in the pouch sewn into the side of your tent.

Many Bedouin families have made their way to more sedentary and modern lives in villages, towns and cities, while some live traditionally in tents made from woven goat hair.

Others still, they blend of both worlds. Witness a cloth pouch woven into the side of a Bedouin tent for a mobile phone.

The placement? For the best signal to receive phone calls of course.

10. The ultimate Bedouin compliment for a woman?

“You look like a camel.”

This is enough to make a Bedouin bride blush. Long eyelashes, big lips — I get it.

Now what was that about the wisdom of the Bedouins, again?

The post Life Lessons We Learned from Jordan’s Bedouins appeared first on Uncornered Market.

On occasion, we are fortunate enough to have an experience or conversation that sends chills for its human quality. Our time with Zikra Initiative and the women of Ghor al Mazra’a in Jordan was one such experience.

From the moment I passed into the courtyard, Um Atallah took control and led me to a seat on the ground near her. Two other women swapped their attention between their work and us, offering encouraging smiles. These were the women of Ghor al Mazra’a near Jordan's Dead Sea. And for a few hours, they shared a bit of their lives with us.

Let the Lessons Begin

Um Atallah, the clear leader of the group, sat me down and got to work with my education for the day. You see, at Zikra Initiative, a core element of the philosophy: “riches come in many forms,” means that everyone has something to share regardless of monetary wealth. The women of Ghor al Mazra'a shared with us their cultural wealth — their crafts, their cooking, their heritage, and a glimpse of their lives.

Without a common spoken language — or much need for one — we began. I learned how to make kohol (natural charcoal eyeliner), olive seed bracelets, intricate tassel knots on a Kuffieh (traditional male headwear) and al raha (using a wheat grinder made from two circular stones). Another woman, Amal, gave me a quick lesson on gallayet bandora, a Jordanian tomato-based dish, as we sat side by side over gas burners.

A note on names: It is common in Jordan for women to be referred to as “Um” or “Mother of” (usually of their eldest son, if they have one). In this case, Um Atallah means Mother of Atallah.

Making Bread, Easier Said

From a mound of worked dough, Um Asad pulled off perfectly sized rounds and laid them in a flour-dusted tin. Dan and I sat on the floor and watched her as she effortlessly tossed the dough to perfect thinness in a way that would make a pizza chef envious.

Her hint: “Move your hands like a bicycle, continuously. Don’t stop.”

It all looked straightforward enough, so I nodded “sure” as a ball of dough was passed to me. I mimicked her movements. Turns out that moving my hands like a bicycle with a ball of soft dough flopping in between is tricky. The dough worked to uneven – thick in some spots, bare in others. Um Asad watched the collapse and eventually came to my rescue, tossing my holey dough onto the saj, a hot iron griddle shaped like an inverted wok.

Neither of us would be the day’s breadmaster. But that wasn’t the point. Instead, the idea was for each of us to learn, to try, to share, to appreciate.

As fascinated as we were by the women and their bread-making prowess — a skill that came so naturally to them — they were similarly surprised that some women (Jordanian women from Amman, in particular) didn’t know how to make shrak.

They began to realize that they had something rather second nature yet very special they could share with others.

A Forgotten Dead Sea Farming Community

Ghor al Mazra’a is a farming area. Around this time of year, tomatoes literally roll into the streets. The patches of green that dot the edge of Wadi Araba desert valley next to the Dead Sea struck us as beautiful from the first turn into it from the mountains.

An unlikely tourist spot perhaps, but I suspect the people living here have an interesting history to tell. Their complexion is darker, hinting at some ancestral roots further south along the Rift Valley in Africa. Sadly, however, discrimination has played out over the centuries and through some unfortunate circumstances, many families had lost their land and ended up as laborers on what were once their own farms.

As Rabee’ Zureikat, the thoughtful founder Zikra Initiative, explained, “This region is considered part of Jordan’s ‘poverty pocket'. Growing up as a city boy in Amman, I didn’t realize we had discrimination or poverty like this.”

Even though the Dead Sea resorts are only about 50 km away, this experience wasn’t at all reminiscent of a typical tourist village where visitors might watch local people execute traditional crafts. Instead, this was an exchange, an interactive experience. The women were on their own turf — at one of their homes in fact. They shared their skills and traditions with us and we shared of ourselves in return. We were on equal footing (actually, I think we were on lesser footing given how much we ruined the shrak.)

Lunch and the Upshot

As we sat on the floor of Um Asad’s house to enjoy a delicious meal of tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers — an all-hands effort scooped with healthy doses of shrak — I asked the women what they enjoy most about working with Zikra Initiative and the tourism exchanges.

“We like to meet different kinds of people,” said Um Attalah.

Um Asad followed up, capturing the exchange: “We can learn English. We teach you how to make shrak, you teach us how to say bread.”

Understanding and respect: two commodities this world could always use more of, to make us more humble and more human — to ourselves and one another.

More about Zikra Initiative

If you’d like to learn more about Zikra Initiative and its innovative approach to tourist exchanges, check out the Zikra Initiative website. A full day visit to Ghor al Mazra’a costs around $35; most of the money goes back to the community either in the form of microloans for the women or community development activities. For any visitor, this a human and cultural experience well worth the effort and minimal expense.

We were also fortunate to spend time with the founder, Rabee’ Zureikat, a down-to-earth visionary who’s found an approach to bring people of different backgrounds and socio-economic levels together in a setting that rather elegantly highlights the beauty of respect and equality. He also makes a clear distinction between the Zikra Initiative approach of cultural exchange versus the donor-recipient equation often found in voluntourism, which leads to an inherent inequality between participants.

It’s also interesting to note that most current participants are Jordanians from Amman. As Rabee’ tells it, many of them are citygoers, who like tourists, are often unaware of the traditional customs and diversity at work across their own country. (I’m sure we can all identify with this.)

Regardless of your time or budget, we recommend arranging a visit with Zikra Initiative. Hopefully, by the time you visit Jordan, Rabee’ will have set up other exchanges around the country, continued his work in the Middle East, and found a way to take his ideas worldwide.

The post Traveling in Jordan: Zikra Initiative Social Enterprise Working with Women appeared first on Uncornered Market.

In Jordan, I spent a lot of time with men. Not only did my immediate company consist of men (our driver and host were both men and I had Dan by my side), but many of our in-home social and cultural experiences were dominated by them, too. Tea and coffee in Bedouin tents was served by and among men, dinners in homes — outside of some interactions with the women of the house – were largely a male affair.

Don’t get me wrong: I enjoy spending time with men and learning about their world, but I also look forward to sharing time with women so that I may get a glimpse into their lives and appreciate their work.

And so I did in Jordan. And for me, three stories stood out. The women I met and their pride as individuals, as mothers, and as breadwinners left an impression on me.

You’ll find two snapshots below. We'll leave the third snapshot to its own piece, a second part in the series.

Um Ahmed: The Best Cup of Joe in Aqaba

As we set out on the road each morning in Jordan, our day would begin with a search for a roadside coffee shop. The goal: one part fix of caffeine, another greater part fix of ordinary Jordanian life.

Most coffee shops featured a guy with dual gas burners set up to make some of the hottest coffee in the world. However, on our way out of Aqaba toward the great desert of Wadi Araba is where we found Um Ahmed. (Literally Mother of Ahmed – it is common to refer to a woman as the mother of her eldest son).

Um Ahmed’s coffee stand was not only the smallest we’d visited, but it was also the first one we’d seen run by a woman.

As Um Ahmed lit the burner and spooned in the right proportions of coffee grounds, sugar and water, she made her pride clear: “To make good coffee you need to know how to use the heat properly to get the right strength and consistency.” She learned her trade from her father, and without any hesitation she shared her joy in a trade she’d perfected: “On Fridays [the beginning of the weekend in Jordan], there are lines of people down the street waiting for my coffee.”

Originally from Syria, Um Ahmed used to run her coffee stand by the beach, but increased competition forced her to move elsewhere. Nowadays, she works mornings and afternoons on the edge of town in front of Aqaba Grand Style Shopping Center to support her family, a group of growing young boys.

While I remember Um Ahmed’s coffee being quite good – not too bitter, not too sweet – it’s her exuberance and spirit which still make me smile.

Nature and Women, Conservation and Courage

As a woman in the corner of the workshop pounded out the contours of a decorative copper leaf, another woman in her early thirties with wide, bright eyes greeted us at the workshop entrance. She looked at me straight and offered in soft English, “You are welcome.”

Having worked in the workshop at the RSCN (Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature) Dana Biosphere for almost ten years, Raedah had executed dual transitions: one from single woman to bride to mother, and another from courageous new hire trainee to group workshop leader.

Why courageous? As Raedah demonstrated the different tools and machinery (some to flatten metal, others to shape it), we learned a little about how she carved her own path.

Raedah’s story is one of overcoming societal norms. Not so long ago, it wasn’t so acceptable in the local culture for a woman to work outside the home. So when a women’s workshop at the nature reserve opened up, only a very few brave women, Raedah included, signed up.

They set the example. Now the project employs twenty-five women – working, accruing health benefits for their families, and paying into the public pension system. A waiting list of even more are hoping to join them.

Sometimes, it takes a few brave souls to help carve a path for others.

To learn more about the workshops and to see the types of products made at Jordan’s nature reserves, check out Wild Jordan, the business development side of RSCN. In addition to making products for gift shops, many of the workshops fill commercial orders for anything from organic herbal tea to gift packaging made from recycled paper.

If you find yourself at one of Jordan’s nature reserves, ask about the women’s workshops. You’ll see for yourself how women of different ages and backgrounds have come together under this umbrella organization to learn new skills and help provide for their families and themselves.

Next up in this series: Zikra Initiative, a surprising visit to the once forgotten women of the Dead Sea.

The post Women in Jordan Snapshots: Coffee to Courage appeared first on Uncornered Market.

For the last several days we’ve been making our way around Jordan – from the capital of Amman to the edges of the Rift Valley, from the north, now to the south. Although we still have much more to do and see, we thought we'd take a breath and share some of our first impressions of Jordan — from the cultural, to the human, to the culinary.

1. Ahlan Wa Sahlan (You are welcome.)

We hear this phrase often – from the woman working at a silversmith shop to a shepherd slinging grass for his goats to the coffee master at the side of the road. It’s more than just a pleasantry, it carries meaning. Its importance is underscored: sometimes it’s the only phrase a person knows in English.

This is connected to the concept of guest something that runs deep in Jordanian culture. People want to be sure that you are taken care of and enjoying yourself. When we were in Georgia (Republic of), we often heard a local phrase — “guests are a gift from God” — and we felt this. We get a similar feeling in Jordan.

2. Living ancient history

From Nabatean to Greek to Roman to Byzantine to Umayyad to Ottoman to modern day, the breadth of civilizations and depth of history in Jordan is almost overwhelming. Walking through Jordan’s historical sights like the Citadel in Amman or the Roman ruins of Jerash provides a living history lesson.

And to think, we haven’t even hit the mother lode of the Nabatean civilization at Petra yet.

3. Jordanian sweet tooth

Given the standard sweetness of tea and coffee in Jordan, we suspect a national shared sweet tooth. Ask for your coffee or tea “medium sweet” and you can’t really imagine what the full-blown version might taste like.

Another example of sweetness beyond is kunefe, a beloved dessert that combines cheese topped with baked, crunchy semolina and sweet syrup. Delicious, but decadently sweet.

4. Mezze style of eating

A little bit of this, a little of that. Jordan's mezze style of eating goes throughout the day, from breakfast to dinner. It aligns with our preference for the small plate and the opportunity to sample multiple tastes and dishes at once. And hummus for breakfast? Although we had our doubts, we've since become converts.

Wonder what constitutes a dinnertime mezze? Click on the image above (you'll be taken to the image in our gallery). On that page, hover over each dish with your mouse and you'll find a note describing what you see.

5) Jordan, a crossroads culture

We were aware that Jordan has a large ethnic Palestinian population, but what we didn’t realize is that there are also pockets of Chechen, Turkmen, Circassian, Druze, and various ethnic groups residing for generations in Jordan. Some came to Jordan to leave persecution or war at home, others for economic opportunity. Makes for an interesting mixture of cultures, cuisines, traditions — and ideally, tolerance.

6) Arabic language = endless proverbs

It seems like no matter the topic, from the mundane to the profound, there is to be bound to be an apt proverb or poetic turn of phrase to capture its spirit. The other morning we complimented the tea by saying it was so good it didn’t need sugar. For this, we learned a saying in Arabic that roughly translates: “When your finger touches the tea, this makes it sweet.”

7. Surprisingly varied landscape

Before arriving in Jordan, we had images in our heads of white cities, deserts and rocky lands (think, Lawrence of Arabia). Sure, there's plenty of that. But there are also forests, fertile valleys and vast expanses of red rocks and canyons reminiscent of the American desert southwest.

8. Farewells, the future and “Insha'Allah”

Each time we discuss our itinerary or future plans with anyone, “insha'Allah” (God willing) captures the closing moments. To us, this expression acknowledges one part hope and another part grounding that nothing in life is guaranteed. Given our lifestyle, we can certainly appreciate this.We should note that we've also heard that “insha'Allah” can also be used to indicate that you hope for something that's unlikely to occur.

9. Breathing below sea level = nice

In our travels, we've trekked up to over 5,400 meters (almost 18,000 feet) where the air is thin and simple footsteps can prove challenging. Until now, we've never gone below sea level as we have in Jordan. At Ma’in hot springs we enjoyed breathing stunningly fresh, oxygen-rich air at 300 meters below sea level – air was so fresh, walking up hills was a breeze. If we could bottle this air, we'd take a tank with us.

We’re wondering if we’ll turn into oxygen-fueled superheroes when we visit the shores of the Dead Sea — a breath-giving 460 meters below sea level — next week.

10. Tea, the social lubricant

We joke that we need to return to Jordan just to fulfill all the invitations for tea that we’ve received so far on this trip. Tea is served everywhere. It's often the first sign of respect and trust with new people, and it serves as a social lubricant.

Tea is served piping hot for a reason. It gives us time to become comfortable with one another, to develop rapport, and to cultivate more interesting conversation.

The post Jordan: First Impressions appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea. Jordan.

In a twist of schedules, we’re headed there in just over a week to experience it all for ourselves.

Jordan? How’d That Happen?

We’ve always been interested in visiting Jordan. It’s long had a firm spot on our itinerary for the Middle East.

Then, enter an invitation from the Jordan Tourism Board just a couple of weeks ago.

In light of the media’s rather predictable painting of the entire Middle East with the brush of what’s been happening in Egypt, we figured a visit to Jordan at this time makes a point: don't make assumptions, don't avoid an entire region based on what’s happening in a few countries.

This backdrop also gives our trip to Jordan added context, story.

Jordan Itinerary: History, Culture, Adventure, Food…People

Jordan is not very large (in fact, it’s about the same size as the U.S. state of Maine or Indiana), but its history is long and deep. If our itinerary is any indication, there’s absolutely no shortage of fascinating stuff to do there. As Uncornered Market itineraries go, this one is going to be chock-full. Here’s a rough idea:

• Petra
• Scuba diving in Aquaba
• Trekking overnight in the Wadi Rum desert
• Ruminating on life in the Dead Sea
• Castles galore (Crusader Castles Karak and Showbak, Desert Castles, and Ajlun Castle)
• Roman ruins of Jerash
• Amman, the Citadel and the Roman amphitheater

Wadi Rum Desert

We are also looking forward to getting to know Jordanian food, with dishes like mansaf (lamb in yogurt sauce topped with a bunch of amazing Middle Eastern bits, nuts and herbs) and stews like maglouba. To that end, we've also managed to include a cooking class as part of the itinerary.

Since this will be our first visit to the Middle East, we’ll also consider this the beginning of a very long, drawn-out firsthand investigation into who actually invented hummus. (In case you’re unaware, this unresolved argument has stewed in the region for ages.)

And as excited as we are about what is planned, we understand that some of our most transcendent travel experiences often take place when we get lost, meet random people on the street, and explore the local culture in fresh, open markets. So we’ve negotiated a good bit of free time to do what we do best: wander, talk to people, discover.

To say that we are excited by all this: an understatement.

The Dead Sea

Is Jordan Really Safe? (you know, with all those protests in the region)

Anticipating some anxiety from our parents and friends — and understanding that the reality on the ground may not always match what circulates as news — we contacted a friend who has lived and worked for years in Amman, the capital of Jordan. His response: “Safety shouldn’t be an issue when making a decision whether to take this trip.”

More generally, the Middle East tends to fill the news too often for all the wrong reasons. We have long hoped to fill a few of our pages with the right reasons, including the experiences we’re known for having and the human connections we’re known for making.

The Wrap and What’s Up After Jordan

We are scheduled to fly to Jordan on Royal Jordanian Airlines on February 25th from our current perch in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

So if you have any questions, any recommendations, any contacts, any anything with regards to Jordan, now’s the time to speak up. We’ll have two weeks in country to seek it out.

You can also join us on our trip virtually. We will have internet access, so expect us to tweet (#dna2jordan) and post updates and photos to Facebook as we go.

Finally, in case you are wondering, “What’s up with your trip to Bangladesh?” We are headed to Dhaka straight from Amman. After all, we'll need someplace laid back to absorb all that we experience in Jordan.

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The post Why We’re Going to Jordan. Now. appeared first on Uncornered Market.