Doing the Huayhuash Trek in the Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru had been a dream of ours for over a decade. Although our expectations were high, the reality of our experience far exceeded them: eight high mountain pass crossings, surrounding peaks of 6,000+ meters (20,000+ feet), turquoise alpine lakes, stunning glacier-covered mountains, and a diversity of landscapes. Each day felt like a different experience, a new discovery. After answering endless questions about planning, organizing and preparing for a Huayhuash trek, it’s time to share it all in this Huayhuash Trekking Guide.

Many people have never heard of the Cordillera Huayhuash since the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu usually get all the tourist and adventure travel attention in Peru. However, this small sub-range of the Peruvian Andes packs a huge punch for its size. Although only 30km long it includes six peaks over 6,000 meters (20,000 ft.) and features spectacular panoramic views of scores of high snow-covered peaks from different perspectives.

It’s not a coincidence that the Cordillera Huayhuash, together with the Himalayan Mountains in Nepal and India, is often listed among the top in the “best places in the world to trek” lists. Yes, it's that stunningly beautiful.

Here's why the Huayhuash Trek is one of the best treks we've ever done and why we continually recommend it. Writing this Huayhuash Trekking Guide brings back excellent memories and makes us want to return to explore even more.

How to use this Huayhuash Trekking Guide: This article is intended to be comprehensive. It contains all the information we wish we'd found when we researched and planned our own Huayhuash Trek. It includes all you need to choose, organize, pack for and enjoy trekking in the mountains of the Cordillera Huayhuash. Plus, it outlines what to expect day by day on the Huayhuash Trek. If questions remain, leave a comment so that others may benefit from the answer and information.

Peru Covid Travel Update

Peru is open to travelers and you can find all of the Covid travel and entry requirements on this official website. In addition to filling out a health declaration in advance, you will need to show proof of vaccination or testing to enter the country.

Currently (February 2022), the local communities along the Huayhuash treks are open for foreign visitors and camping, but some may have special requirements to enter. Be sure to check in advance with your trekking agency or tour operator. In addition, for safety and health reasons many trekking agencies are limiting group tours and are focusing mostly on individual tours.

Choosing a Huayhuash Trek

Huayhuash treks fall roughly into two categories: short (4-7 days) and long (8-14 days). If you have the time, we recommend choosing a route that is 10-12 days through the Cordillera Huayhuash. This length of circuit can provide a complete Huayhuash experience and deliver more views and stunning landscapes than you thought possible in one trek.

Classic Huayhuash Trek (8-14 days)

Longer treks will take you over more mountain passes in a full circuit so you can appreciate some of the high peaks from multiple angles. Each day includes at least one, and sometimes two, mountain passes ranging from 4,000+ meters/ 13,000+ feet up to 5,050m/16,570 feet. It is recommended to do three acclimatization hikes in and around Huaraz before embarking on one of these treks (see below for details).

We chose a 10-day Huayhuash trek and were very happy with the route, pace, difficulty and overall experience. We met other trekkers who had done an 8-day trek, but we found their route cut out some of our favorite vistas.

Short Huayhuash Treks (4-7 days)

Also known as Mini Huayhuash Treks, these shorter routes intend to provide trekkers a sort of “best of” sample of the Cordillera Huayhuash in a shorter period of time. These routes tend to focus around Lake Jahuacocha or Lake Carhuacocha and cross over several 4,000+ meter / 13,000+ feet mountain passes. Although not as challenging as the full Huayhuash Trek, these treks still require prior acclimatization in and around Huaraz.

Note: If you don’t think that you have the time, physical endurance or strength to do one of the Huayhuash Treks, consider one of the Santa Cruz treks in the nearby Cordillera Blanca. As we understand, these treks still include stunning scenery but are shorter and less physically demanding.

What to Expect on a 10-day Huayhuash Trek: Day by Day

Note: The itinerary outlined below is the one that we took. Although the route is the same, some of our campsites and overnights may differ slightly from some of the classic 10-day Huayhuash Trek itineraries. Together with our guide, we decided to adjust the itinerary so that we would climb up to San Antonio Pass on the morning of Day 7 vs. the afternoon of Day 6. This meant that we spread out the campsites after that a bit differently and did not have two nights at Lake Jahuacocha — a deliberate itinerary adjustment which was preferable to all of us.

We calculated distances and times using an exercise app. While fairly accurate, there may be some small differences than if we'd used a more sophisticated GPS device.

Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Matacancha (4,150 meters / 13,615 feet)

This is a driving day (7 hours) from Huaraz to get you to the trailhead so that you ready to start hiking the next day. You go through some beautiful scenery, including some overlooks with views of the Cordillera Huayhuash and a drive over the Cuncush Pass (4,750 meters/15,580 feet).

Day 2: Matacancha – Cacanan Pass – Mitucocha

Once at the trailhead, you’ll have time to unload all the gear, learn how to set up your tent, enjoy views of Mount Rondoy (5,870 meters / 19260 feet) and eat a hearty dinner before turning in early for the night.

This day begins with a steep zigzag ascent to Cacanan Pass (4,700 m/15,420 ft) which marks the continental divide (all rivers east of it flow towards the Amazon and all on the west flow towards the Pacific Ocean). Enjoy a snack and rest at the top before descending into a green valley where you may find a few vicuñas (related to llamas) grazing high in the hills or vizcachas (animals which look like a rabbit crossed with a squirrel) dashing around.

You’ll also have your first view of some of the snow-covered high peaks of Ninashanca (5,607 m), Jirashanca (6,094 m) and Jiraschanco Chico (5,445 m). The trail continues past the small village of Janca to the campsite near Lake Mitucocha at the foot of Mount Jirashanca.

Day 3: Mitucocha – Carhuac Pass – Carhuacocha Lake

The walk up to Carhuac Pass (4,650 m) is rather gentle and takes around three hours. You’ll be rewarded at the top with the first view of Mount Yerupaja (6,634 m), Peru’s second highest peak and the highest of the Cordillera Huayhuash. On the way down towards Lake Carhuacocha you’ll pass some Incan ruins and another small village.

The campsite is on the shore of the lake and features a stunning panoramic view of the snow-covered peaks of Yerupaja, Yerupaja Chico (6,121 m), Siula Grande (6,344 m) Jirashanca and Jirashanca Chico (5,446 m).

Day 4: Carhuacocha Lake – Siula Pass – Huayhuash

Wake up before sunrise, grab a cup of coca tea and climb to the top of the hill behind the campsite to watch the light transform the nearby snow-covered peaks as the sun rises. The reflection of the snow-covered peak in the lake is like a mirror, perfectly still and crisp. Mother Nature puts on a beautiful show as the colors change to pink and orange.

This is a beautiful morning walk that winds its way past the turquoise alpine lakes of Grangrajanca (4,245 m), Siula (4,290 m) and Quesillococha (4,332 m). As you rise in altitude to reach Siula Pass (4,800 m) more layers of mountains and lakes appear.

It’s a steep and rocky ascent to the pass, but you’re rewarded with views of Mount Carnicero (5,960 m), Jurau (5,600 m) and the eastern side of Siula Grande (6,344 m). Enjoy a picnic lunch here before descending to the campsite near Huayhuash.

Day 5: Huayhuash – Portachuelo Pass – Viconga (Hot Springs)

The day begins with a relatively easy ascent to Portachuelo Pass (4,750 m). Enjoy a snack at the top with views of the snow-covered mountains of the Cordillera Raura. The descent is long and steady, passing through green valleys filled with wildflowers and perhaps a llama, alpaca or two.

The Viconga campsite is at the foot of Mount Cuyoc (5,550 m). This campsite is the one place along the trek where you'll have an option to bathe.

Note: There are several hot spring pools near the campsite. We highly recommended you enjoy them thoroughly, both to bathe and to relax your muscles in the warm water. There is a small pool for washing with soap and then two other pools to soak in once you’re clean.

Day 6: Viconga – Cuyoc Pass – Pampa Cuyoc

This relatively short day includes Cuyoc Pass (5,000 m), the first of the trek’s two 5,000+ meter mountain passes. This is a relatively long switchback ascent through rocky, high desert terrain. The panoramic views from the top are spectacular and include a sort of “best of” the Cordillera Huayhuash, including Jurau, Sarapo (6,127 m), Siula, Yerupaja, Rasac (6,017 m), Tsacra (5,548 m) and Huacrish (5,622 m).

Descend to Pampa Cuyoc at the base of San Antonio Pass (5,050 m) for lunch and a relaxing afternoon. There are optional short hikes to nearby hills for anyone who still wants to stretch their legs.

Note: Many itineraries include an optional climb up to San Antonio Pass on the same day with an overnight at Huanacpatay campsite. Together with our guide, our group opted to hike up to San Antonio in the morning when the skies were clearer and we had more energy.

Day 7: Huanacpatay Valley – San Antonio Pass – Huayllapa Village

Begin this day with a steep climb up the scree and rocks to San Antonio Pass (5,050 m), the highest pass of the trek. Take your time at the top to enjoy the best viewpoint of Mount Siula Grande (of “Touching the Void” fame) and nearby alpine lakes. You may also spot a few condors flying about, searching for prey.

Descend the same way and continue on the trail through a series of green valleys and cultivated fields to Huayllapa village. After you set up camp in one of the school fields, enjoy a walk through the village.

Note: this is the only set of shops and services you will come across on the trek. Someone in our group had his hiking shoes repaired here as one of the soles had begun to fall off.

Day 8: Huayllapa Village – Tapush Pass – Gashpapampa Valley

Leaving the village behind the trail takes you up to a high plateau that rises gradually up to Tapush Pass (4,800 m). You’ll have glacier-covered Mount Diablo Mudo in front of you for much of the way up to the pass. Views over Lake Susucocha (4,740 m) are revealed at the top. Enjoy the wildflowers, birds and views of the Cordillera Blanca in the distance as you descend into Gashpapampa Valley for the night. Once you reach camp, bundle up since this was a pretty cold night and morning for us.

Day 9: Gashpapampa Valey – Yaucha Pass – Cerro Huacrish – Jahuacocha Lake

Each time you think that the views and the moment can’t get any better, they do. Take it slow and enjoy.

The day begins with a slow and steady scree-covered ascent which takes you up to Yaucha Pass (4,850 m), the final high mountain pass of the trek. As you come over the pass you have an incredible panoramic view of Cordillera Huayhuash’s highest peaks, decked out in glaciers and snow-covered. Talk about dramatic. Keep your eyes out for condors here as well.

Continue on to Cerro Huacrish with another beautiful view to both the giant peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash on the right and Cordillera Blanca and Huallanca on the left. Just sit and take it all in. Finally, as you descend towards Lake Jahuacocha you’ll reach another ridge that overlooks the turquoise lakes below surrounded by mountains.

There is one last very steep descent through pastures and grazing cows to get to the campsite near the shores of Lake Jahuacocha. Watch how the light and the reflection on the lake of the surrounding mountains changes throughout the day.

Since we had free time in the afternoon we did an optional hike out to Solteracocha Lake (3.6 miles / 5.8 km) that took two hours. Climb up to the rim above the lake and just enjoy the deep turquoise color of the alpine lake and the surrounding snow-covered peaks.

Day 10: Jahuacocha Lake – Pampa Llamac Pass – Llamac Village – Huaraz

This is the last day of hiking and although it isn’t as dramatic as the day before, it's still pleasant and features a relatively easy walk out to Llamac Village. You’ll be able to catch one last view of the Cordillera Huayhuash peaks from Pampa Llaman Pass (4,300 m) before descending through villages and high desert to the village. The vehicle will be waiting there to take you back to Huaraz (about a 5-hour drive).

Best time to do the Huayhuash Trek

The trekking season in the Cordillera Huayhuash and Cordillera Blanca begins mid-to-late May and runs until September. This is the dry season and also considered “Andean summer.” The high tourist season is July and August. During this time you'll have clearer weather, but the lack of rain means that the mountains will dry and brown throughout the season.

We did our trek mid to late May; we felt it perfect timing. We had a bit of rain at the very beginning of our trek, but the mornings were clear and the rains only usually began in the afternoon after we'd already set up camp. After a few days, the rains stopped altogether and we had perfect weather.

Because it was still early in the trekking season, trails and campsites were not crowded. Mountains remained green and lush since the rainy season had just ended.

If you can time it, try your Huayhuash trek during the shoulder season from mid-May to early June.

The low and rainy season is from October to April with the highest rain in January – March. Many high passes are still snowed in from December to March, so that that might make it impossible for trekkers and the donkeys to be able to pass. There is also the risk of landslides during this time which might wash out the trails and hillsides. There have robberies of independent trekkers during this time as are alone with no other people around, so it's not recommended to trek independently in the off season.

Because of all this we recommend timing your trek between May and September or early October.

Huayhuash Trek Difficulty and Conditions

The following information is based on our own personal experiences on a 10-day fully-supported Huayhuash trek. Support included a trekking guide, cook, donkey wranglers, and a team of donkeys to carry our gear, camping equipment, food and trash.

We added information for independent trekkers where available.

Huayhuash Trek Difficulty

We’d categorize the difficulty of the 10-day Huayhuash Trek we did as medium-high, leaning more on the high side of the range. This is because of its daily high mountain pass crossings (4,000+ meter/13,000+ feet), sleeping at high altitude and distance.

Don't let the elevation frighten you away. Our trekking group included people from their late 20s to a 74-year-old (who had both knees replaced within the last three years). We all had prior experience hiking and doing multi-day treks, but none of us were hard core mountain climbers. We'd all simply done our acclimatization treks in and around Huaraz — that's what makes the difference.

While this implies that special training is not required for the Huayhuash trek, you ought to be relatively active and in good physical shape before taking it on. You should be either be accustomed to or prepared for multi-day treks with steep, slow uphill climbs at high altitude.

Not a Technical Trail

The classic Huayhuash trek we did was not technical. To do it, we didn't need special equipment (e.g., climbing ropes, crampons, or other mountain climbing fittings). We do recommend using walking or trekking poles, however. They provide stability and balance and take some of the pressure off your knees and joints, especially on the steep descents.

Huayhuash trekking trails in the mountains are well-maintained and for the most part are relatively easy to follow. There are a couple of streams or rivers to cross, and depending upon the time of year you may need to take your shoes off or consider using river sandals. That’s all part of the fun.

Dealing with Altitude on the Huayhuash Trek

You will reach some high altitudes during the Huayhuash trek. The highest point on our trek was 5,050 meters / 16,570 feet at San Antionio Pass. Each day, we crossed mountain passes ranging from 4,000 – 5,000 meters / 13,000 – 16,500 feet. And, we were often sleeping around 4,000 meters / 13,000 feet. Understanding how your body responds to altitude and how to best manage your response to it is important for your enjoyment of this trek.

At altitude, our advice is to take it slow and steady on the uphill. Our guide, Edgar, was a hiking zen master at this – he would start our group out slow in the morning, especially if we had a steep ascent, so that our bodies could wake up and adjust. If you think you’re going ridiculously slow, then it probably means you are at the right pace. Trekking is like meditation The slower you move, the more likely you are to enjoy what's around you. And the more successful you will be.

It’s better to proceed deliberately and slowly with fewer breaks than to move quickly and wear yourself out so that you need to recuperate with frequent and longer stops. At high altitude this is even more important in order to avoid getting sick and to maintain your energy levels.

In addition, drink LOTS of water as your body needs more liquids at altitude. I would usually drink a liter of water at breakfast before we even began walking, just to have a bit of “hydration reserve.” It’s recommended to drink at least two to three liters a day at high altitudes like this.

Note: If you really suffer from altitude sickness you can also consider taking Diamox. We have avoided taking it by using natural methods (e.g., water, walking slowly, etc.), but we do know people who have benefited from taking it in small doses. Be sure to talk with your doctor first about its side effects, including the additional water you must drink when taking it.

Rain and weather conditions on the Huayhuash Trek

We'd been warned about rain because the timing of our trek coincided with the end of the rainy season (mid-May). We arrived prepared with waterproof ponchos, jackets, and pants. Mornings were usually clearest and at the beginning of our trek, it rained during a couple of afternoons. But we didn’t find the the weather a hindrance to our enjoyment. Only once on the trail were we forced to pile on all the serious rain gear. All other times, the rain arrived only after we'd set up camp, which included a waterproof dining tent.

Carry a waterproof cover for your day pack. Protect any valuable electronic gear like smartphones or cameras in a dry bag or multiple Ziploc plastic bags. All our gear was carried by donkeys, and all the bags were wrapped in multiple layers of plastic tarp to protect them from rain. In addition, we packed our clothes, sleeping bags and other important items in an additional layer of plastic bags.

If you are trekking independently and carrying all your gear with you, you must carry a good waterproof cover for your backpack and use Ziploc or other waterproof bags to keep everything dry inside in the case of heavy rain.

Note: If you monitor weather forecasts and apps, we recommend you consider taking them with a grain of salt. For us, forecasts for the Huayhuash (Ancash) mountain area predicted alpine weather armageddon right up until the moment we began our trek. Reality turned out to be quite different (see the photos). For those of you who book a Huayhuash trek and are freaked out by weather reports — just as we had been — and you find yourself tempted to cancel, seriously reconsider. If you book with a trekking company, as we did, check in with them for a bit of a local weather report reality check.

Food Along the Huayhuash Trek

If you do a fully-supported trek as we did, there's absolutely no chance for you to go hungry on the Huayhuash trek. Our group had its own cook and he created some incredible meals for us using a simple camping kitchen and limited ingredients.

On most days we were served three full meals, with lunch and dinner usually each consisting of 3 courses (e.g., soup or salad, main dish and dessert). On days where the schedule and route was a little tighter, we were given sandwiches as a picnic lunch.

Each morning we we were given bags of treats (e.g., chocolate, quinoa bars, biscuits, fruit, etc.) to ensure we never got hungry on the trail between meals. We always had a mid-afternoon tea and snack break at the campsite. There were always treats and surprises each day.

If you are vegetarian or have food restrictions (e.g., gluten, dairy, etc.), alert your trekking company and guide in advance so they can prepare accordingly.

Independent trekkers will need to carry and cook their own food, of course. There are a few big grocery stores in Huaraz that can supply you with basic ingredients, but if you have a specific type of camping food or brand that you prefer then you should probably bring that from home. Please clean up after yourself! We saw too many empty discarded cans of tuna and other food containers along the trail. That's just rude and disrespectful.

Clean Water Along the Huayhuash Trek

We were provided ample amounts of clean water (i.e., boiled for a certain period of time to kill germs) each morning by our cook and the support team. This is what we drank throughout the day as we walked. Our goal was to drink a minimum of two to three liters of water each day.

Of course, there are lots of mountain streams where you can gather water to drink throughout the trek. We carried water purification drops with us in case we needed to use water from a stream or other source. We never had to use them because clean water had already been prepared for us.

Huayhuash Trek Campsites and Sleeping Arrangements

You’ll be camping and sleeping in tents throughout the Huayhuash trek. There are no real homestays or other sleeping options, except in Huayllapa where there are some family guest houses. We slept in two-person tents (provided by the trekking agency). Although these tents were not huge, we had enough space to sleep and position our belongings on the edges of the tent.

By the time we arrived at the campsite each day, our tents were usually already set up for us by the support team. We were very thankful for this little bit of luxury after a long day of hiking.

Local communities manage the campsites along the different Huayhuash trekking routes. This community-based system is relatively new. It used to be that trekkers could pretty much pitch their camp anywhere, and for free. Understandably, local people got a bit tired of people using their lands, and often not cleaning up after themselves. Communities weren't seeing any financial benefit from tourism development in the region. A system was then set up to compensate the local communities for use of their lands and also to help share some money and benefit from tourism and trekking growth.

Campsites are still pretty basic and located in remote areas, so don’t expect services or shops. In general, you’ll find a place to pitch tents and an outhouse (or two) on the edge usually consisting of a drop toilet or a toilet bowl without water. With the exception of the hot springs near Lake Viconga on Day 5, there is no running water at the campsites. Expect to trek without showers. (Note: if you are on a fully-supported trek like the one we took, you will likely be provided a bowl of hot water in the morning for washing.)

Each community collects a fee from each person (usually $3-$8/person) who stays at a campsite and uses its facilities. You’ll often find an individual or family visiting early in the morning to collect the money. You’ll receive a receipt for your payment.

We heard stories of some trekkers trying to arrive late or pack up early to avoid paying these community camping fees. Just don’t. It’s disrespectful and it creates problems between trekkers and local people, making it difficult for future visitors wishing to enjoy the area.

Organizing a Huayhuash Trek

A Huayhuash trek can be done either independently (e.g., without a guide) or through a trekking agency (e.g., fully supported with a guide, cook, assistants, donkeys to carry gear, etc.). Decision factors include your trekking experience and physical shape, skill at reading trekking maps, budget, weather, and preference. Let's examine these.

Hiking the Huayhuash Trek Independently

Although you won’t see trail markers along the route you can usually pick up trails pretty easily based on their use by trekkers, donkey trains and local shepherds. This means that if you have a lot of experience doing multi-day treks, reading trail maps, using a GPS and hiking at high altitude then you should be able to safely do the Huayhuash trek independently.

Some advantages of trekking Huayhuash independently including being able to create and adjust your own route and setting your own pace. The cost will be much lower as you are not paying for a support team, guide, etc. However, you should still stay at community campsites and pay the required fees so as to respect local people and local community regulations.

However, there are some other considerations. Trekking independently means that you’re carrying all your own camping gear, food, clothing, and more. Since the only real village with shops is Huayllapa, you should expect to carry 7-8 days of food with you. All of this weight adds up and can get heavy, especially when you’re going over a 5,000+ meter / 16,500 foot mountain pass. We saw some trekkers struggle with their packs and the extra weight.

In addition, we also met some trekkers who were lost as they thought they were following one circuit, but ended up on another. Our guide would usually help to steer them in the right direction or offer a short cut to help them get back on track. While this may not sound like a big deal on the surface, it can be quite stressful when you only have a limited amount of food with you and the weather around you is changing as the day wears on.

For more on trekking Huayhuash independently check out this guide.

Choosing a Huayhuash Trek Tour

Given the length, distance and high altitudes of the Huayhuash trek, we knew we wanted to do it supported – with a guide, cook, support team, donkeys to carry our gear. Our goal was to enjoy the walk, including the stunning mountain landscapes and being immersed in nature without worrying about getting lost, carrying all our gear, or struggling to cook or set up our tent each night.

We were and are thrilled with our choice.

Having a local trekking guide provided us with the peace of mind that we were always on the right path. (Some of you may remember, we have a history of getting lost in mountains).

Our local guide, Edgar, knew everything about the Cordillera Huayhuash from leading trekking and mountain climbing groups there for over 17 years – all the local legends of the peaks around us, wildlife, birds, flowers, natural medicines, and more. As he was Quechua he could also provide context and information about indigenous culture, growing up in the mountains, and changes he’d witnessed over his lifetime.

While doing the Huayhuash trek independently may save you some money and allow you more flexibility in route and pace, our experience proved to us beyond a doubt that the benefits of doing a supported trek with a guide, cook, support team and donkeys far outweighs the costs.

Choosing a Huayhuash Trekking Agency

If you do as we did and work with a trekking agency for a supported Huayhuash trek, the next step is trying to figure out which trek to choose based on the route, level of comfort, budget, and schedule you're looking for.

Booking a Huayhuash Trek in Advance

Because we had a limited window of time to do our 10-day Huayhuash Trek we needed to book our trip in advance. When I began to search around and contact different trekking agencies in Huaraz I found that prices varied quite a bit and could be very expensive, especially if there wasn’t an existing group departure for the dates I wanted.

A bit discouraged, I continued to search, focusing on trekking companies which already had existing trek departure dates that fit our schedule. That’s when I found Quechuandes Travel and Adventure Agency recommended on some traveler and trekker forums and their open group departures calendar (usually on their Facebook page).

Jackpot!

They had a departure date for the 10-day Huayhuash trek we wanted to do during our limited time window. From the first communication with Marie, the co-owner, I was impressed by the transparency of information, pricing and details. I also appreciated that she was explicit that the price was the same whether we booked in advance or as a walk-in. And, we felt that price was fair to all parties — to us, to the company, and to the guides — from the beginning.

We paid a deposit (50%) to secure our spots for that departure date (Note: Transferwise offered the best rates for this international wire transfer so if you’re new to the service use this link to get a free $500 international transfer). The remainder we paid in cash when we met in person in Huaraz a few days prior to the trek departure.

Another thing that impressed me about Quechuandes were the materials they sent in advance. They focused on sustainable tourism — the environment and conservation, being respectful of local culture, understanding local socioeconomic issues. You could tell that this information was not copied from the internet, but created after years of experience working with the local communities and in these mountains.

Regardless of which operator you choose to take you on the Huayhuash Trek, select one which works with local guides and support staff, pays fair wages, and operates in a responsible and respectful way towards the environment and local people.

Booking a Huayhuash Trek in Huaraz

If you have a flexible schedule, it’s also possible to book your Huayhuash trek directly in Huaraz, the city which serves as the base for all treks in Cordillera Huayhuash and Cordillera Blanca. There are heaps of trekking agencies around, many with signs outside indicating upcoming trek departures and availability.

You can walk around, meet with different trekking agencies, ask about price and services, and then make a decision. If the price sounds too good, it might be. Ask questions to be sure of what you’re getting for your money. We witnessed other groups on the trail whose food options appeared limited and whose tents and donkeys looked worse for wear.

It’s worth it to spend a bit more for the comfort of a trained guide and cook, and to know that the staff are receiving fair wages and the animals are well cared for.

As the Huayhuash Trek has become more popular these last years many departures are already filled up so you may not be able to get on the trek for the time period you'd like. So if you have any sort of limited schedule it's best to book in advance.

Price of a Huayhuash Trek Tour

Current (2019) costs for for the 10-day Huayhuash Trek with Quechuandes (minimum of 5 people in the group) is $70/day or $700 for the full trek. The maximum group size was eight persons. Given the level of support and service we received we felt this was a very fair price, and it was much lower than many other similar trekking agencies.

The tour and price included:

• private transport to the trailhead (Matacancha) and from the end (Llamac)
• a certified mountain guide, cook, muleteer (donkey handler), and assistant
• donkeys to carry gear (up to 8kg per trekker), food, cooking equipment, etc. + emergency horse
• food, snacks and clean water
• 2-person tent and sleeping mat. If you wanted a private tent, that was an additional fee

The tour price did not include sleeping bags or community campsite fees (approx. 200 soles/ $60 per person for ten days). I rented my Marmot down -10 C sleeping bag from Quechuandes for 20 soles/$6 per day ($60 total). Dan was able to borrow a sleeping bag from a friend in Berlin, but otherwise he would have rented one from them as well. It is essential you carry a proper alpine sleeping bag on this trek.

Renting Trekking and Camping Gear in Huaraz

You can arrive in Huaraz without any trekking or camping gear and be outfitted with all that you need pretty quickly either through renting or buying. Quechuandes, the trekking agency that we used, rents out a large selection of gear (that’s where I rented my -10 C down Marmot sleeping bag). Many other trekking agencies offer the same.

In addition, there are quite a few shops in town specializing in trekking gear where you can buy new or sometimes even used clothes or other items. A couple on our trek bought used fleece jackets and waterproof pants from Huaraz all of which served them well.

Leaving your luggage behind during the trek

Most accommodation and tour operators/trekking agencies will allow you to leave your big bags or luggage with them for the time that you're doing the Huayhuash trek. We left our big backpacks at the hotel in Huaraz we were staying at prior to the trek and then picked them up on our return. Although we haven't heard of any problems with luggage and theft, it's always best to securely lock your bags for their time in storage.

Acclimatization hikes around Huaraz before the Huayhuash Trek

Especially if you’re coming from sea level (e.g., Lima) or low altitudes, it's a wise (if not essential) idea to spend a couple of days acclimatizing in Huaraz (3,050 meters / 10,000 feet) and doing a few acclimatization day hikes. This means hiking to a higher altitude during the day and then sleeping at lower elevation at night (e.g., Huaraz).

For the Huayhuash Trek with its daily high mountain passes, at least three acclimatization hikes are recommended prior to setting off. Marie from Quechuandes essentially told us we had to do a minimum of three acclimatization hikes before starting the Huayhuash trek. This may sound a bit extreme, but we get it. She’s trying to ensure that trekkers identify any problems they may have in advance and be sure they are fully prepared so they can mitigate risks and enjoy the trek to the fullest.

In fact, we met a group of women on an 8-day Huayhuash trek who did not do any acclimatization treks. They were hurting the first couple of days and looked miserable. Don’t do that to yourself. Don't sabotage your trek for the sake of saving a couple of days. It's a poor decision. Altitude sickness is no joke. It’s not fun and it can become very dangerous. It’s better to take the time to acclimatize properly before departing on the long trek. Not to mention, the acclimatization hikes are all pretty fabulous and enjoyable in their own right.

Marie sent us this list of suggested acclimatization treks. After talking with her we chose the following acclimatization day hikes to help prepare us for the Huayhuash Trek.

Lake Wilcacocha Acclimatization Hike

Distance: 11.9 km / 7.4 miles
Walking time: 3.5 hours
Max elevation: 3,700 meters / 13,140 feet

This is a simple and easy hike near Huaraz. It's a good one to begin with. It features a steady incline for a couple of hours along a dirt road until you reach Lake Wilcacocha at the top. The lake itself is not particularly impressive, but there is a nice overlook so you can get a feel for the countryside around.

To get there, take the Route 10 or Route E collectivo (public bus) from near the Huaraz central market (corner of Raymondi and Hualcan streets). It costs around 2-3 soles ($0.60-$0.90) per person. Let the driver know that you want to get off near Laguna Wilcacocha. After getting off the bus, cross the small bridge and you’ll see a sign at the trailhead.

Lake Rajucolta Acclimatization Hike

Distance: 16.6 km / 10.3 miles
Walking time: 5 hours, 20 minutes
Max elevation: 4,270 meters / 14,010 feet

This is not one of the typical acclimatization hikes, but it came recommended by Marie. We really enjoyed it. It’s a nice walk that isn’t too difficult at the beginning, but increases in difficulty as you climb up to the lake. Mount Huantsan, the 3rd highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca (6,395 m / 20,980 ft), guides the way and serves as a stunning backdrop to Laguna Rajucolta.

There were no other hikers on the trail the day we went. We and two other hikers going on the same Huayhuash trek as us had the whole place to ourselves, with the exception of a few shepherds and their flocks of animals. Highly recommended.

The Laguna Rajucolta hike requires private transport with a 4×4 vehicle to get there and back as the roads get rough after turning off the main road. The drive takes around 1.5-2 hours from Huaraz. We hired a driver through Quechuandes for around 220 soles ($66) for the entire car (4-5 persons). He dropped us off at the trailhead in the morning and then waited for us all day to return.

Laguna 69 Hike

Distance: 13.8 km / 8.6 miles
Walking time: 4 hours, 45 minutes
Max elevation: 4,600 meters / 15,090 feet

This is one of the more popular day hikes in the Huaraz region, and for good reason. Located in Huascaran National Park in the Cordillera Blanca, this hike climbs up to Laguna 69, a beautiful alpine lake with Mount Chacraraju (6,112 meters / 20,052 feet) as a backdrop. The views on the path up are also pretty stunning and spectacular. Be sure to allow and take time to look around and enjoy them. There are some challenging, steep ascents. But, that’s also what makes it an excellent acclimatization hike and preparation for the Huayhuash trek.

The easiest way to organize the Laguna 69 hike is to buy a “tour” in Huaraz that essentially includes bus transportation with a guide. We bought ours from Quechuandes for 35 soles / $10.50 per person and had an early morning 5AM pickup at our hotel. You’ll stop for breakfast along the way. If you don’t have a packed lunch with you already, your breakfast stop is also an opportunity to buy lunch for the hike. The entrance fee for Huascaran National Park is 30 soles / $9 per person.

Where to stay in Huaraz

There is certainly no shortage of places to stay in Huaraz. We stayed at El Jacal Classic before and after our trek. It is located a few blocks from the main square and downtown area, so it is both conveniently located and quiet. Request a room that is not at the top of the stairs as it can get a bit loud with people coming and going. Breakfast is served on the rooftop, which has a great view.

If you are hiking with Quechuandes they also offer the Quechuandes B&B now for clients that looks like a great option for staying in Huaraz before and after your trek.

They are accustomed to trekkers, so it's no problem to leave your luggage there when you're off in the mountains.

What to pack for the Huayhuash Trek

Check out our full Ultimate Trekking Packing List with all the details on what to bring with you on a day or multi-day trek like the Huayhuash Trek (or anywhere else). However, we offer a customized Huayhuash Trek packing list to ensure you have what you need, yet don't overpack.

We suggest you ask your trekking agency and perform some independent research about the temperatures at night during the time of your trek. This will determine how many layers you'll need to carry and the weight your jacket(s). For example, temperatures dipped to -10 C / 14 F during a couple of the nights and early mornings on our trek so we were very thankful to have extra layers of long underwear, fleece and more.

As mentioned above, tents and sleeping pads were provided by Quechuandes.

Clothing

You really don’t need much in this department. Don’t worry about packing clean clothes for each day, as everyone is just wearing the same thing or repurposing the same clothes each day. Here’s what we suggest:

• 1-2 pairs of trekking pants: We're both been using Clothing Arts Travel Pants (for men and for women) as our go-to trekking pants these last few years. They hold up well on multi-day treks in terms of hiding dirt, drying quickly, not getting stinky. We find the additional secure pockets useful on treks for keeping phones, money, tissues and other things handy.
• 2-3 short-sleeved t-shirts: Preferably quick-dry or regular cotton (his and hers quick-dry t-shirts).
• 1 long-sleeved travel/trekking shirt: This is useful not only as a layer of warmth in the chilly mornings when you first start hiking, but also as protection for your arms from the strong sun (his and hers).
• Hiking shoes: We both recently shifted to wearing Oboz Sawtooth hiking boots. The insoles and support for your feet are really good, and the shoes are sturdy and can stand up to some tough terrain. In addition, Oboz plants a tree for every pair of shoes sold so you can feel good that your purchase is going towards reforestation and environmental projects. Men's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy at Backcountry | Women's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy at Backcountry
• 1 set of evening clothes for dinner and sleep sleep: T-shirt, long pants (or pajama bottoms), socks. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside your backpack.
• Underwear: Usually one pair for every day of the hike. Here are recommended men's boxer shorts and women's underwear
• Hiking socks: I love SmartWool hiking socks as my first pairs lasted me almost seven years of heavy usage. If you prefer a thinner sock check out their ultra-light line. I often wear a sock liner together with wool hiking socks.
• Bathing suit: For the hot springs on day 5 of the hike.
• Fleece jacket: For cool nights or sleeping (can double as a pillow, too).
• Waterproof rain jacket: For this trek I upgraded to a NorthFace Climatech technology waterproof jacket and I love it. It not only provided protection against the rain and cold, but the jacket material is very breathable so it didn't feel like a sauna inside when I used it. Highly recommended.
• Waterproof poncho: This long backpack poncho goes over you, your backpack and most of your legs so it really provides great protection from the rain.
• Waterproof pants: Pick up a pair of light pull-on biking waterproof/water resistant pants. They fold up into a small bag so they barely take up any room or weight in your backpack, but keep you quite dry when the clouds open up.
• Light down jackets: These can be stuffed into a tiny cinch bag and are so light that you can carry them with you in your day pack. We used these for warmth and comfort at night when temperatures drop. Dan loves his seamless ultra-light down jacket from Uniqlo.
• Flip-flops or river shoes: These are useful for the evenings when you want to get your feet a break from hiking shoes or you need to run to the outhouse in the middle of the night. Women's River Shoes | Men's River Shoes

Other Trekking Gear

• Sleeping Bag: This needs to be comfort rated to at least -10 C / 14 F. I rented my heavy duty down sleeping bag from the trekking agency, Quechuandes. If you are looking to buy a sleeping bag for your trek, one of the guys in our trekking group used this North Face 3-in-1 One Bag Sleeping Bag and found it warm enough and comfortable. Dan was looking at this Hyke & Byke Eolus 0 Degree sleeping bag before one of our friends lent him one to use. It was recommended and seemed like a good price.
• Refillable water bottle: Bring with you 1-2 refillable water bottles and/or a water bladder so that you always have at least one liter of water on you at all times. You'll be able to refill your bottles with clean water in the morning before you leave for the day and when you get to camp in the afternoon. If you really want to play it safe consider carrying with you a SteriPEN or sterilization drops.
• Trekking poles: We highly recommend using trekking poles for this trek, especially for the steep downhill sections. We'll usually share one walking stick set of two so each of us uses one stick. However, most people in our group used two poles each. This set of travel-friendly walking sticks fold up easily for luggage and assemble quickly when on the trail.
• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand. We also put electronics and other items in plastic or zip-loc bags inside the backpack as a extra protection for them.
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off after showers, and also after a swim. Hang it on the outside of your backpack in the morning so it dries quickly in the sun and air as you move.
• Silk sleep sack: To provide an extra layer of protection and warmth between you and the sleeping bag.
• Headlamp: None of the campsites have electricity so a headlamp is essential for finding your way to the toilet and to sort through your stuff at night in your tent.
• Silicone earplugs: A precaution in the case your camp has a snorer.

Toiletries and Health Kit

You'll have access to hot springs to bathe on day 5, but for the rest of your trek you'll receive a small bucket of hot water either first thing in the morning or in the evening to wash your face and other basics.

• Soap, toothbrush, toothpaste and dental floss: The basics.
• Sunscreen: The higher the SPF, the better. You're at high altitudes for most of this trek where it's much easier to become burned. Keep applying sunscreen.
• Sunglasses: At high altitudes the sun is super strong so go for sunglasses that will protect your eyes vs. be fashionable.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side, especially for lunch and snacks on the trail.
• Pack of tissues: You will be provided with a roll of toilet paper, but it’s always a good idea to carry a pack of tissues in case of messes, spills or emergencies.
• Duct tape: Very effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet. Also consider picking up some Compeed, which is magic when you already have blisters.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration powders, ciprofloxacin/azithromycin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea), tea tree oil (great to apply to mosquito bites) Note: all these are easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Huaraz from where you depart for the trek.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

None of the campsites have electricity. Prepare yourself for not having access to electricity during the trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode. There is no connectivity along the trek anyhow, so don't waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• We brought a solar powered power bank and used it to charge our smartphones, when necessary.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. Here’s an example for our iPhone X battery case. It provides another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spent time reviewing your images on your phone or camera, as this will drain your battery power quickly.

Conclusion: Huayhuash Trek, A Trek of a Lifetime

Yep. For us, there's no way to oversell our experience on the Huayhuash Trek. During the trek, we felt the kind of deep decompression we feel whenever we head into the mountains on a long walk. The sense of accomplishment — individually and shared with a group of fun people — is profound. The memories, as we write this piece and flip through one stunning, astounding image after another, are still fresh.

All that's left now is for you to give it a try. Any questions, ask them in the comments. And if you decide to do it, let us know how you get on.

The post Huayhuash Trek, Peru: All You Need to Know About Hiking in the Cordillera Huayhuash appeared first on Uncornered Market.

The Incan ruins of Machu Picchu outside Cusco, Peru grab the lion's share of that country's travel press. But before the Incas stormed through this region in the 15th century, there were actually some other clever people living in Peru. They built an impressive city and lived in circular houses on a mountaintop in the north, near the town of Chachapoyas (meaning “People of the Clouds”).

The ruins of Kuelap, the citadel they built in those clouds.

We tend to carry a healthy dose of skepticism with us when visiting ruins, but this particular pile of rocks — and its stories — exceeded our expectations.

Our Kuelap tour guide was refreshingly honest — he admitted that almost all the information available about the ruins was speculation. He offered competing theories from archeologists the world over and suggested that we decide which explanations made most sense to us.

Wonder why the “cloud people” lived in circular homes? One theory suggests that this structure offers better protection against earthquakes. Another keys off inhabitants' superstition: circular homes don't provide corners for spirits to hide in.

Our money is on the latter.

See those short rock wall dividers inside the dwellings? (You have to look really hard.) Piles of cuy (guinea pig) bones found in those areas suggest that they were family guinea pig pens. Now, before you think how cute it was for parents to allow their kids to keep their pets inside the house, we remind you of #1 on this post.

Although the Incas steal the limelight for Peru, remember there were groups of people living there before them…and no one really knows much about them.

That's part of the fun.

Practical Information for Visiting Kuelap

How to book at tour to Kuelap: Almost all tour operators in Chachapoyas sell day trips to Kuelap that include transportation, entrance fees and a guide (English or Spanish). Although you can take public transportation out to Kuelap to do it all independently, we suggest taking a tour as we really enjoyed having a guide with us and not having to wait for long periods of time for buses.

Where to stay: Although there are a few smaller hostels and guest houses in the villages near Kuelap, we stayed in the town of Chachapoyas as there were more options for accommodation and food. You can check rates at hotels in Chachapoyas here.

The post The Pre-Incan Ruins of Kuelap, Peru: Why to Visit appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Maybe you’ve seen the photos coming out of Peru over the last week or two: raging rivers, washed-out bridges, mud-buckled railroad lines, and tourists being airlifted from under the shadow of Machu Picchu in the town of Aguas Calientes.

We’re here to suggest — despite it all — that you keep Peru on (or consider adding it to) your travel bucket list.

Why?

Thousands of people earn their livelihoods by way of the tourism industry in and around Cusco and Machu Picchu. They work as guides, porters, and hotel staff; they are weavers and craft vendors.

With the latest wave of rain-driven natural disasters, locals have suffered plenty. The last thing they need is a fear-driven tourist drought to take away what few jobs they had, making it even more difficult to provide for their families.

We understand that tugging at heartstrings may not convince you to visit Peru anytime soon, but maybe our experiences and photos will.

The not-so-well known in Peru

There’s certainly more to Peru than just Machu Picchu.

Chachapoyas and Kuelap

Don’t let the endless bus rides full of sheer cliffs scare you away from the northern Peruvian town of Chachapoyas. The town itself is pleasant and the nearby pre-Incan ruins of Kuelap, with their circular stone buildings, are worth a side trip.

After all, everyone has heard of the Incas. But who were the folks in the region before them? Archeological theories abound as to why buildings were circular, but the reality is that no one really knows (our guide was quite honest about this speculation, thankfully). It all adds to the mystique of the 1000 year-old mountaintop citadel.

In the town of Chachapoyas, the friendliness of vendors and the abundance of fruit at the central market is surprising. There’s even some street food! Don’t forget to try the black olives — delicious and absurdly inexpensive.

Cajamarca

There’s something about the not-too-thin air of mid-alpine colonial Cajamarca. People are friendly, dairy products like manjar blanco, dulce de leche and cheese are likely some of the country’s best, and the indigenous head wear appear carved from giant loaves of white bread.

Because Cajamarca is a university town, cultural events are frequent. You might even be lucky enough to catch an international folk dance festival during your visit.

Or more pedestrian concerns may draw you to avail yourself of one of the best and cheapest haircuts on the planet.

Lima

Many people dislike Lima; they minimize their time there or often avoid it altogether. The biggest thing going against Lima is the weather: a chronically gray perma-drizzle. But in Lima’s defense, it’s actually a nice place to visit.

We are convinced that Lima’s poor reputation has this has to do with the neighborhood where most travelers choose to stay: Miraflores.

While Central Lima is a bit down-at-the-heels, Miraflores is downright soulless. Do yourself a favor and stay in Barranco, a neighborhood a little further out from the center than Miraflores, but one with an abundance of independent restaurants, cool graffiti and an air of an artists’ community.

Most importantly, a visit to Lima is worth it for the eating experiences alone.

Huancavelica

Interested in someplace without any tourists where you can get a feel for indigenous Andean Peru? If so, Huancavelica is the place for you.

We found ourselves there for a photography project and saw only one other traveler in the course of a week. The town itself is relatively small, but you can head out into the surrounding hills and villages for some visually spectacular walks. Although the region has been affected by the recent heavy rains, we've been told that the damage hasn't been on the scale of that seen in Cusco and the Sacred Valley.

The well known in Peru

Cusco

We didn’t take excursions to the Sacred Valley or buy entry into the various churches or museums. Instead, we used our time in Cusco to acclimatize, look for a trek to Machu Picchu, and walk the city. We also hung out on the main square on Sunday to talk with handicraft vendors and take in a parade marched by local military, school and hospital staff.

If the hawkers in Cusco's main square drive you mad, consider taking a walk up into the hills of Cusco where ordinary people make their way.

Note: On the first Sunday of every month, a corner of the main square Plaza de Armas fills with indigenous crafts vendors from around the surrounding hills. The vendors are decked out in their colorful indigenous dress. If you get up early enough, you'll have a chance to not only check out their wares without the crowds, but you'll also enjoy a bit of conversation with the vendors about where they come from and how they acquired their skills. They are exceptionally friendly and are happy to talk about their crafts and the techniques they use.

As one vendor explained, “We like this market since we can sell directly to the customer instead of having to sell through shops. We make more for our families and the customer pays less. Good for everyone.”

How can you argue with that?

Machu Picchu and the Salkantay Trek

The granddaddy of sights in Peru, Machu Picchu makes the bucket list of many. And for good reason.

If you haven't already, check out the full story of our Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu in which we document our entire journey.

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So don't let pictures of Peru's floods scare you away; keep it on the list.

And when you build your Peru itinerary, keep in mind that it's a big country. Throw in an exploration or two beyond the main tourist sights.

More Peru Travel Tips: Accommodation, Restaurants, Wi-fi Internet, Transport and Activities

The post Keep Peru on Your Bucket List: Here’s Why appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Peruvian cuisine has attained a certain hipness over the last decade. So when we put out a call to our network for Peruvian food suggestions prior to our visit to Lima, we were surprised when the net response amounted to “ceviche and pisco sours.”

For sure those are requisite tastes, but the Peruvian food scene offers so much more.

Influenced from the mountains, from the jungle, from the coast, and from abroad (Europe, Japan and China), Peruvian cuisine — tart, rich, spicy, and international — stands distinct in Latin America.

Peruvian food is accessible: you don't need to spend a fortune to eat well. Peruvians are understandably proud of their food, too. During our visit, we often developed a rapport with fellow diners. As a result, our conversations moved to family, politics, economics and life. Once again, good food opened the doors to a culture.

But before we enter a culinary philosophical vortex from which we can never return, let's dig in.

Seafood

Ceviche

Traditional Peruvian ceviche features raw fish that is citrus-cooked by marinating in Peruvian lime juice, raw onions, and chili. It is usually accompanied by some corn (on or off the cob) and a slice of sweet potato whose sweet starch provides almost perfect balance to the acidity of the leche de tigre, the ceviche marinade. For greater variety, try ceviche mixto which throws in octopus, shrimp and other shellfish. You will also likely be served an appetizer or side of canchas, large toasted, salted corn kernels.

Where to get it: For some of Lima's highest value ceviche, pop on into Lima's Surquillo market on Saturday at midday. Find the seafood aisle and chat with the seafood woman who will tell you that the fish most often used in ceviche is the ojo de uva. A few meters away at this popular place, locals will be downing large plates of ceviche mixtos (including fish and shellfish) for 12 soles ($4.50). Share a table, eat beautiful ceviche and — if you put yourself out there — enjoy some conversations about Peruvian history and life in Lima.

Tiradito

Similar to ceviche, but more subtle and refined, hinting at some Japanese influence. The primary difference between ceviche and tiradito? No onions. In place of onions, tiradito marinades often feature ginger and aji (Peruvian hot pepper). You can also find tiradito served (as in the photo below) with creamy aji amarillo (yellow hot pepper) or rocoto (hot red bell-like pepper) sauces.

Causa rellena

Bright yellow mashed potatoes seasoned with lime and aji, filled with tuna, shrimp, or crab and topped with avocado and a creamy cocktail sauce. The ultimate comfort food in the Peruvian kitchen. Just as decadent as it sounds.

Conchitas a la Parmesana (parmesan gratinated scallops)

Rich and buttery. Scallops topped with grated parmesan and baked just brown. Our favorite appetizer.

Seafood Stuffed Tequenos

Taking a culinary cue from Asia, Peruvians give us tequenos, the Peruvian spring roll. Thinly rolled, filled with chicken or seafood, fried and served with various dips.

Where to get these dishes: Although we sampled seafood fare at several restaurants, we found the best quality and value at El Muelle, a restaurant/cafe located in Lima's Barranco neighborhood. Location: At the corner of San Martin and Alfonso Ugarate Streets (one block away from Metro Supermarket).

Chupe

A creamy chili-seasoned stew-like soup chock full of fish, shrimp, crab and whatever else the chef wants to throw in. Usually also includes cheese and some sort of cream added to the broth to make it super rich and tasty.

We had an impressive bowl of chupe de cameron at La Nuevo Palomino in Arequipa. It's big enough to share between two people.

Pescado a lo Macho

Fish fillet topped with a creamy aji-rocoto pepper and shellfish sauce.

Seafood Chaufa

Peruvian Chinese fried rice turned with ginger and spices. Particularly in Lima, you'll find it chock full of shellfish (squid, mussels, and shrimp).

Parihuela

Think Peruvian style bouillabaisse. Tomato-based seafood soup spiced with hot pepper.

Sushi

We know, we know. Sushi is not Peruvian. Lima's Japanese influence and position on the Pacific coast makes it home to some decent sushi, however. Where to Get It: From the moment we walked through the door at Edo, we enjoyed the atmosphere and pace. A line of Japanese sushi chefs behind a well-supplied counter dish out inventive rolls and healthy cuts of sashimi. Address: Berlin 601, Miraflores, Lima.

Meat and Potatoes

Rocoto Relleno

The Peruvian stuffed hot pepper. Stuffing can include just about anything it seems, but the norm is some combination of chunked or ground beef, cheese, hard-boiled egg, onions, garlic, herbs, spices and raisins, all in a hot cream pepper sauce. Originally a specialty of Arequipa, rocoto relleno is popular and available throughout Peru.

If you are traveling in Arequipa, the rocoto relleno at La Nuevo Palomino is pretty darn tasty and rich. And, it's hearty enough to share between two people.

Lomo Saltado

Slices of beef stir fried with onions, potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, and soy sauce.

Anticuchos

Marinated and spiced beef hearts, skewer-roasted. Very rich and tasty, but more than one might just leave your heart beating a bit faster than normal.

Aji de Gallina

Chicken — pulled or on the bone — served in a creamy aji sauce. While we loved the concept of this dish, we found most versions to be lacking the oomph one might expect from a pepper sauce. Having said that, the sauce in the aji de langostina from Trattoria dei Prati at the Mistura festival was subtle, earthy, rich and delicious.

Ocopa

Boiled, sliced potatoes lathered in sauce blended from milk and dissolved saltines, aji panca amarilla chili pepper, walnuts and huatacay (a regional herb sometimes referred to as Amazon black mint).

Papas Huancaina

Think of it as a simpler version of ocopa. Boiled potato slices served in an ocopa sauce, roughly minus the nuts and herbs.

Papas Rellena

Deep-fried mashed potato logs stuffed with various fillings including seasoned ground meat, spices, and olives.

Tacu Tacu

An Afro-Peruvian dish. A seasoned mixture of beans and rice formed into a tortilla/turnover and fried. Often served with an egg and a slab of fried beef or chicken.

Pachamanca

The classic Peruvian grill: meat, potatoes, corn, lima beans, humitas (sweet tamales) all cooked in a pit lined with heated stones.

Drinks and Desserts

Pisco Sour

The cocktail that grows on you. Get your fill of the traditional pisco sour, a cocktail made with Peruvian pisco liquor and lime juice with a layer of egg white foam on top. After having done that, try some other flavors, including the one made with maracuya (passion fruit). When well-made, it's incredible.

Where to get it: Huaringas in Miraflores, Lima. We sampled several pisco sours. If you want a serious, top-quality cocktail, this is the place.

Chicha morada

Alcohol-free drink made of purple corn (or black maize, if you like), boiled fruit juice (pineapple, quince or other citrus) and spices like cinnamon and clove. Recipes and quality vary widely. Surprisingly good with ceviche. Where to get it: Lots of places serve it, but our favorite: the cevicheria at the Surquillo market.

Picarones

A donut/fritter made with sweet potato dough and served with a sweet honey and fig syrup. This snack is a Peruvian favorite and drew the longest of all lines at the Mistura Peruvian food festival.

Alfajores

Two buttery shortbread cookies with a healthy layer of manjar blanco (or dulce de leche) in between. The center is sweet, but when served with a proper shortbread cookie (not overly sweet), the result is terrific.

Lúcuma Ice Cream

Lúcuma is a fruit that is unique to the Andean region. It looks like an avocado from the outside, and it is supposed to be filled with all sorts of health benefits. We did not try lúcuma fruit in its raw form (it's supposedly a bit dry), but we did have lúcuma ice cream, shakes, yogurt and custard. It has a unique caramel flavor that really goes well with dairy products.

Leche asada

A baked custard made of evaporated milk, eggs, sugar and vanilla. Where to get it: You can find leche asada, alfajores and a whole array of other desserts at La Tapa cafe on the corner of the San Martin Avenue and Domeyer Street in Lima's Barranco neighborhood.

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Lima is worth a stop on your Andean itinerary, if only to sample the food. If you go, however, you must make an effort to beyond Lima's tourist ghetto, Miraflores. Consider this: the “Best Ceviche” award at the Mistura Peruvian food festival was given to a cevicheria in San Juan de Miraflores, considered to be one of Lima's poorest neighborhoods.

Therein lies the key to Peruvian food.

The post Peruvian Food: More than Just Ceviche appeared first on Uncornered Market.

We began this piece by writing a narrative tracing the hiccups in our Salkantay to Machu Picchu trek in Peru, but soon realized that our lessons learned go beyond Peru’s tourist-laden Inca corridor.

So what happened? Our guide got drunk two nights in a row, tried to pinch us for more money with unplanned and overpriced transport, didn’t buy our Machu Picchu tickets in advance, missed our meeting on the day of Machu Picchu by two hours, and mismanaged our return train and bus tickets to Cusco.

Not bad, eh? (But we still had a great time. Our group even enjoyed a few laughs because of it.)

At each turn, the ironic assurances of our Cusco-based tour company echoed: “Pay a little more with us and you’ll have a better experience.”

So next time you book that tour or trek – especially in and around high-traffic choice destinations – here are a few things to keep in mind and some behaviors to look out for:

1. You Don’t Always Get What You Pay For

Sniff that price tag with a healthy dose of skepticism. More than once, we’ve been on a tour whose participants paid vastly different prices for the exact same service. And by vast, we’re not talking a couple of dollars, but double and triple the price.

It’s every buyer’s right to try and get the lowest price and every seller’s right to try and maximize his take. But while it’s fairly clear in the airline business that the cost of a flight depends heavily on when you book, that same level transparency does not appear to hold in the tour business.

Our experience: For the same exact services, participants on our Salkantay trek paid $180, $250, $300, $400 and over $500. Some people booked two days before in Cusco, others in Lima and Germany months in advance.

Advice: If many tour companies appear to be offering similar tours and services, visit a few (in person or online) and shop around to determine exactly what you’re paying for. If you are paying extra, be certain you are doing so for higher quality or convenience. Otherwise you are just leaving money on the table.

When and where you book will weigh heavily on the price you pay…and the number of middlemen sharing your cash. Prices from internet brokers who are not on location will likely be much higher.

Finally, research whether or not your tour or trek is flexible enough to accommodate just-in-time arrival. With the Inca Trail, this really isn’t an option. For alternative Machu Picchu treks like the Salkantay Trek or Sacred Valley tours, it usually is.

2. Funneling

This phenomenon occurs when hundreds of companies sell the same tour and dump their clients into a funnel that empties into the embrace of a handful of freelance companies managing the actual services. You book with Company X, who coordinates with Company Y, and you end up in the hands of Company Z. Of course, Company X (who is really just a middleman) never lets you in on this secret. The result: a confounding mess of expectations and accountability.

Our experience: Our trekking group consisted of nine people who booked through six different companies. The trek itself was run by yet another company — if not an amalgam of companies (in fact, it was difficult to tell). The company we booked with marketed themselves as a “direct agency,” meaning that they ran the whole show. Our conversations with other tourists suggest this dishonest broken-record selling point is in play across many tour operators in Cusco.

Advice: A good tour company either runs their own show or offers transparent options outlining who is actually running the tour. Try to determine how many links are in the chain of agents that will deliver your services.

3. Chiseling

This is the tour variation on: “my friend has a jewelry [carpet/ceramics] shop with great prices.” When your guide begins to cut corners and offer options that were covered in the paid tour in the first place, you know that you are being chiseled. Mastery of this art involves creating opportunities for friends to make money and insisting there are no other providers in town other than the ones the guide recommends.

Our experience: Besides directing us to a taxi that was five times the going rate, our guide tried to convince the group to forgo hiking and pay for a bus the next day (driven by the same friend). When that trick didn’t stick, he insisted that we pay to transport our baggage to the next stop, even though every agency had included this service in the tour. Together as a group, we called the guide on his game. Suddenly, transport was available for our baggage and no more mention was made of his friend’s van.

Advice: If something doesn’t seem right, ask questions immediately instead of waiting until it's too late. If you don’t like the unexpected detours (shops or otherwise), let your guide know this.

4. “No problem”

This is the chorus of guides and organizers around the world intending to soothe fears and concerns. If we've heard it once, we've heard it 10,000 times.

In the world of tours and treks, “no problem” begins when agencies leave details vague enough and open to interpretation so that when it comes down to accountability there is nothing definitive to hang a complaint on.

Our experience: In order to clarify what we were paying for, we asked endless questions when shopping around for our Salkantay trek. Tour companies often made us feel like we were paranoid.

“No problem. We organize everything,” was the common refrain. Yeah, right.

Advice: When you hear “no problem” while booking, expect problems. When you hear “no problem” on the trek, start praying. “No problem” is your cue to ask questions and get more specifics. Bottom line: if the company can’t provide answers, then it’s time to move on.

5. Lobbying

When your guide begins hinting about money — particularly by sharing stories of outsized tips given by other tourists — you know you are being lobbied.

Our experience: Fortunately, our Salkantay guide did his lobbying for the cook and horse handler (both of whom were competent and deserving of tips).

When we hiked the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal, however, our companions’ porter began lobbying on day two of a fifteen-day trek and never let up. Our porter never said a word about money, and in the end, wound up with twice the tip.

Advice: If you find yourself being lobbied, consider diffusing it with humor. Playing dumb or acting aloof can also work. If the guide persists, let him know that the more time he spends talking about money and the less time he spends working as a good guide, the more rapidly his tip will evaporate.

6. The Blame Game

Ah, the musical chairs of responsibility. When things go wrong, the guide blames the tour company; the tour company blames the guide.

Our experience: When our Machu Picchu and return tickets to Cusco weren't ready upon our arrival in Aguas Calientes, our guide blamed the tour company. Upon our return to Cusco, our tour company's response regarding the missing tickets and drinking: “The guide is responsible once the tour starts.”

So what exactly are we paying the tour company for?

Advice: Before handing over your money, consider asking the tour company: “If something goes wrong on the tour or with the guide, who is responsible? What will the company do if things don’t go as planned on the tour? What is my recourse?” Listen to the answers and proceed accordingly.

7. The Culture Card

Cultural differences are one thing, but when you take our money and make promises about very basic things (tickets, times to meet, what services are included, etc.), the excuse – “We do things differently here” – begins to lose its validity.

Our experience: As things fell apart on our Salkantay trek, a woman from Germany began asking questions about the way the trek was organized. The guide’s response: “This isn’t Germany. We do things differently in Peru.”

Sorry, but failing to purchase entrance tickets to Machu Picchu doesn't fall under the “cultural sensitivity” rubric.

Advice: Respect and cultural sensitivity come first. Maybe everything won’t go exactly as you expect, and culture can certainly play a role in that. But when you see the big stuff going awry, then it's time to voice your objections.

——–
A big thanks to our trekking group for helping to make the experience what it was. If forced to choose between a competent tour company/guide and a good-natured trekking group, we’d choose the latter.

And, a special thanks goes to Seamus, the young man with the Irish flag who provided the inspiration for the title of this piece and always kept us laughing.

Caveats:

• We queried over 20 people in Cusco, and countless others along our journey. It was incredible how similar everyone's experiences were, no matter the company or tour.
• Specifically for Cusco, we did hear of well-organized Inca Trail and small-group tours (where, it turns out, lobbying is the biggest problem you face).
• By no means does every tour operator or guide exhibit these characteristics. Having said that, it’s useful to recognize the warning signs should you encounter them so you can respond accordingly.

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Value: a topic of great debate, perhaps nowhere more so than in the world of travel.

We've had friends rave about inns in Costa Rica that are a “great value” at $300 a night. At the same time, we've met travelers who do the “bad value” balk when accommodation anywhere runs more than $3.

Call one a spendthrift. Call the other cheap. Value is in the eye of the beholder.

The theme and concept of value reveals itself regularly on the road. What is something worth? How much are you willing to pay? What enjoyment or satisfaction have you attained for your money? And how much has the context — the location, the time of day, the feeling of insecurity, or the convenience – influenced your sense of value?

There are no definitive answers; there are as many responses as there are travelers. The value debate will forever rage on.

We consider the question of value because, having just crossed the border from Peru into Bolivia, we find ourselves readjusting our own value-meter to new circumstances. Peru was by no means an inexpensive travel destination — particularly in tourist areas — but there were nuggets of value to be found amidst the expense.

Here's what two Peruvian soles ($0.66) can buy you:

1. A Haircut

A cafe owner in the town of Cajamarca pointed us in the direction of the town's “barber street” where the going rate for a man's haircut is two soles. Not only was this the cheapest cut of our journey, but also one of the best haircuts Dan has enjoyed in the Russian roulette of haircuts he plays about every six weeks.

(In case you are wondering, Dan’s worst-value barber experience? Lahic, Azerbaijan. He ran for his life from the chair after the barber butchered his neck in a shave and greased his hair into a butt-cut. Asking price: $5)

2. Bag of Coca Leaves

In preparation for the high altitude of the Salkantay Trek, we poked outside the Cusco central market in search of coca leaves, the local remedy for soroche (altitude sickness).

“Two soles worth?” the vendor asked.

We nodded, expecting a tiny bag. Instead, we got this:

Note: In case you are wondering, coca leaves are indeed the raw material for cocaine. Roughly speaking, it takes two leaps — grinding the leaves into a paste and chemical processing — to transform the arguably innocent little leaf into the white powder known as cocaine.

3. Three Artichokes

One of Audrey's most favored foods, fresh artichokes are the stuff of glee, so much so that she almost did a jig when we stumbled upon this artichoke stand at Surquillo Market in Lima. The going rate? Three artichokes for two soles.

The outer leaves were meaty and their taste featured the slightest hint of allspice. The hearts, substantial and rich. We steamed and served them with Peruvian aioli. Audrey was on Cloud 9.

The sense of value is a personal one, so we put the question to you: what's the best thing you've bought for $0.66 (give or take)?

Be creative. You can also go back in time.

The most unique response gets a bag of coca leaves. Kidding, kidding.

Instead, we'll send you something from Bolivia as a reward. And don't worry, we'll make sure it's worth more than $0.66.

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“Oooh, Machu Picchu!”

Even my mom caught the hype when I told her we were headed there last week. As excited as she’s been about our travels, I think that was the first “Oooh!” of our trip she ever uttered.

We kept our expectations low, however. Maybe it’s our reflex reaction to the prevailing travel wisdom: “Machu Picchu is the granddaddy of South American sights.”

But add to Machu Picchu a hike to the foot of a hulking 20,575 foot (6,271 meter) glacier, a walk through Andean valleys, and a skim of the Peruvian jungle. Throw in a diverse and upbeat group of travel companions to share the slog across switchbacks and up giant staircases, and the march to Machu Picchu becomes an event, a series of accomplishments and a trip well worth taking.

That was our Salkantay Trek.

The Ascent to Salkantay Glacier

After surviving a hail storm and a slippery “short-cut” obstacle course of mountain streams, cows, cowpies, and rocks, we dined with our group at the 3,900 meter (12,800 foot) campsite of Soraypampa. Cold, wet and disoriented from altitude, more than a few of us entertained sneaking off to the five star lodge across the valley. But in the cache of the Humantay and Salkantay glaciers and the star clouds of the Milky Way, we worked ourselves to sleep.

“Buenos dias! Mate de coca!” Our guide Henrique seemed a bit too cheerful for a frosty 4:30 AM wake-up. Through our tent flap, two tin cups of piping coca leaf tea appeared. We huddled around the steam and mustered the courage to leave our warm sleeping bags.

Fortunately, a beautiful, clear day awaited us.

Shortly after 6 AM, we began our walk up. As we carved our way through gravel and rock, the sun began to rise over the peaks above us. The previous day’s fresh snowfall glistened with clean perfection. Photo-worthy views emerged at every turn.

Feeling sluggish and facing the most daunting set of switchbacks of the ascent, we reached for our stash of coca leaves. We tucked a wad of leaves in our mouths and chewed. Hoping for the clarity and energy boost that all locals promised, we pushed on with our mantra: “One foot in front of the other.”

After more than three hours of full ascent, we reached the pass at 4,650 meters (15,525 feet). The cairns laid there recalled similar stone piles neatly arranged for prayer and direction in places Nepal and Sikkim.

The Way Down

Our descent witnessed a rapid transformation from the barren and crisp to the lush and balmy. When we stopped for the night, Sebastian, our horseman, arranged our tents on a verdant hillside clearing with an expansive view of the valley below. Exhaustion and relief reigned at the end of a long day. Some celebrated with a cold shower. We opted for a cold beer instead.

Our trekking group – nine people, four nationalities, and a 41-year age span from eldest to youngest – conversed its way from the day’s reflections to life in Peru and the effect of the “War on Drugs” in South America.

Day 3 of our trek was marked by wild orchids, tropical flowers, lush bamboo and waterfalls. In the few small villages we passed along the way, homes often appeared the same shade of mud brown as the recently turned fields that surrounded them.

Across the canyon, a road was being carved out of the mountainside, reminding us again of the never-ending struggle between man and nature. Landslides — likely the result clear-cut logging — marred the landscape. But it was clear that Mother Nature would win this battle by wiping out sections of the road with the next round of heavy rains.

The weather continuously warmed until our arrival in Santa Teresa, where we relaxed our aching muscles in the natural hot springs. We submerged ourselves in an effort to take refuge from swarms of bugs with ferocious appetites for human blood.

We had completed 57 of the 75 kilometers of the trek. We were in the home stretch.

On Day 4, just a few more kilometers, a hydroelectric plant, and railroad tracks stood between us and our fourth and final night in Aguas Calientes.

Machu Picchu – Our Final Destination

Gluttons for punishment, we began the uphill grind from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu on foot at 4:30 AM.

Motivation for such a departure: to arrive early enough to obtain one of the 400 available daily permits to climb Wayna Picchu (the steep mountain seen in the background of every Machu Picchu photo). Between us and our goal lay a maddening series of switchbacks and steep rock stairways, and a 400 meter (1,300 foot) climb that would leave us drained and drenched in sweat.

When we arrived, Machu Picchu and the surrounding peaks remained shrouded in morning fog. The light was soft; the atmosphere was — for lack of a more appropriate cliché — mystical. Terraced fields cascaded from the ancient city, showcasing yet another of man’s battles with nature. When we asked the guide why we don’t see terraced fields in Andean villages today, he responded: “We’re too lazy now to build them.”

Makes you wonder what happened to the culture in the intervening years.

Machu Picchu strikes us as one of those places best appreciated as a whole, in the context of its surrounding environment. In this way, it's possible to begin to grasp what the Incas had accomplished: the installation of a complex, functioning city into an uncooperative mountainside.

Whether you've been to Machu Picchu or not, chances are that the most common images you've seen of it carry a familiar quality about them. Sometimes it takes looking at something iconic from a different perspective, however, to broaden your understanding and appreciation of what it might have taken to create all that's behind the icon. And so it is with Machu Picchu in Peru.

Machu Picchu is impressive from just about every view, but the perspective in this photograph provides a visual on what “perched high on a mountain ridge” really means.

It's not just the steep terraced steps that you see, but it's the sheer drop after about the fourth step that really registers. Imagine what it must have taken to build such a massive structure on top of this mountain, to carve terraces out of the mountain face, and to trace it in great stone — all over 500 years ago in an age without the aid of machines to move rock and soil.

Incredible, really. And an Incan definition of ingenuity and perseverance.

A walk up to the top of Wayna Picchu (an endeavor not for the faint of heart) affords one of these all-encompassing panoramic views. From there, Machu Picchu appears a hillside birthmark amidst a vast, imposing mountain range.

And as the day drew to a close and the crowds thinned, we took a cue from these folks:

Why the Salkantay Trek and not the Traditional Inca Trail?

Slots on the traditional Inca Trail are restricted to 500 people per day and demand is so high that booking 3-5 months in advance is usually required. We almost never book anything in advance since our plans change as projects and opportunities arise. And so with the Salkantay Trek we were able to book just days before when we arrived in Cusco.

The traditional Inca trail is littered with Inca ruins. On the surface, this sounds ideal. However, we’ve heard stories of trekkers who begin to suffer ruin saturation and fatigue, so much so that by the time they arrive at Machu Piccchu, they feel some letdown. Not so with Salkantay where the trek is defined by imposing glaciers, lush valleys and high jungle; Machu Picchu is the only set of ruins you will see. If ruins are your focus, the traditional Inca Trail is obviously the route for you.

We also trek to get away. The Salkantay Trek offers a low-traffic alternative to an undoubtedly more crowded traditional Inca Trail. Having said that, reports suggest that people are not falling over one another on the traditional Inca Trail. One final consideration: perhaps due to demand and reputation, treks on the Traditional Inca Trail also tend to be better organized.

Taking all this into account, were both options available to us at the time of booking, we would still have opted for the Salkantay Trek.

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As much as anyone else, we enjoy visiting world-famous tourist sites and embarking on adventure trips. Peru has been no exception. In fact, in just a few hours we depart for a five-day trek to the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu by way of a mountain pass at 4650 meters/15,500 feet.

But there’s almost always another side to the countries we visit. And sometimes we disappear into the hills for weeks to find it.

When we told Peruvians we were headed to the hill town of Huancavelica, their response was often: “Huancavelica? But that's the poorest area in Peru.”

We traveled there to photograph and profile microfinance borrowers and were further exposed to the realities of life in the rural Andes. Here’s what we found:

The Challenge for the Interloper

We departed Lima at 11:30PM.

We fell asleep somewhere after midnight, only to wake up around 3:30 AM to shortness of breath, cold perspiration, and a general feeling of anxiety. In less than four hours, we had climbed over 4,800 meters/16,000 feet to the Anticona Pass at Ticlio, Peru’s highest navigable mountain pass and one of the highest roads in the world.

Aside: It turns out that iPods also suffer from soroche (local term for altitude sickness). At around 13,000 feet, iPods begin to show erratic behavior (freezes, stops playing, makes clicking sounds). Apparently, this is the iPod hard drive's struggle with altitude. A similar thing happened to our iPod in Nepal. Fortunately, on both occasions, the iPod returned to normal when we descended to lower elevation.

Upon our arrival in Huancavelica later that morning, at a mere 3,676 meters (12,000 feet), we downed cups of coca tea (a natural altitude sickness remedy) and spent the better part of the day adjusting to the thinned air. Our heads were fuzzy, we moved slowly, our hearts beat heavily and our thought processes retained a certain murkiness.

The Challenge for the Native

During our visit to the more remote villages outside of Huancavelica, the surrounding peaks outlined how beautiful yet challenging mountain areas can be. Valleys lay vast as sparse villages of mud brick homes clung to the hills. We wondered what steps people took to survive.

Because jobs are scarce and agriculture is often not enough to live on, village men work away from home in the mines. They return home only once or twice a month. Wives left behind raise their children (often in the range of five to nine of them) on their own. Because the money their husbands earn is usually not enough and the lack of jobs also extends to them, women run basic businesses in order to make ends meet.

For our photo project, we visited rural villages – some only accessible by foot – to witness the work being done by ECLOF, a global microfinance organization whose Huancavelica program is less than six months old and funded by Five Talents, a microfinance NGO based in the United States. The program makes small loans to clients (mainly women) in the range of 200-600 soles ($66-$200). Additionally, the program provides skills training and capacity building so that clients may learn how to improve their businesses and in turn their lives.

Over the course of a few days, our heads became filled with stories:

• Juana produces and sells ice cream in a small town to support her seven children (two more grown children live away from home).
• Paolina raises guinea pigs and sells hand-knitted goods and cheese in a small village to support her seven children.
• Isabel weaves and knits her way into providing as a single mother and dreams of someday exporting her work.
• Donaires sells coca leaves at the main market in Huancavelica and shared with us all the natural benefits of chewing coca leaves (it soothes altitude sickness, provides calcium, disinfects the mouth, cures stomach ills, etc.).
• Zenovia runs a small village restaurant, sews blouses, raises guinea pigs, and weaves traditional blankets (mantas) with the help of her whole family.

At one of the borrower group meetings we attended, a woman broke down as she spoke about the support she receives from the women sitting around her. When she got sick, the other members of her loan group made her loan payments for her until she was healthy again. While individual successes are important, the success of the group is the broader aim.

To make the point, another woman captured a rather uplifting spirit, but with tears in her eyes: “When one of us falls, we help her even more.”

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