This Lost City Columbia Hiking Guide shares why that is and includes a day-by-day overview of the Lost City Trek, all you need to know to choose the right tour, how to pack and organize so that you can enjoy the Ciudad Perdida and this multi-day hike to the fullest.

We were out of breath, having just climbed 1,200 stone steps when Celso, our indigenous guide, called for us to join him around a group of stones arranged in a circle in a clearing. In the middle of the circle stood another square stone on top of which lay a pile of coca leaves placed as an offering. Celso explained with trademark calm in a slow, deliberate voice, “This is a place where we should let go of our impurities, our negative thoughts and emotions.”

We stood in silence, not only to “cleanse” ourselves so that we might better experience this sacred site, but also to enjoy its peace and quiet. To Celso, we were then prepared to further visit Teyuna, otherwise known as the Lost City (La Ciudad Perdida) in Colombia, the ultimate destination to which we’d been trekking in the rain forest for the previous two days.

Here’s why you might want to consider putting the Lost City or Ciudad Perdidia in Colombia on your travel or hiking wish list, in case it isn’t there already. In this Lost City Colombia Guide we include the day-by-day hiking experience plus all you need to know about to choose a Lost City tour and how plan, prepare for and pack to be able to enjoy the complete Lost City Colombia experience.

Update: This article was originally published in June 2015 and updated in May 2022 with information about the new G Adventures Lost City Trek itinerary.

The following experiences are from our G Adventures Lost City Trek. If you are considering this tour and want to know what to expect, here’s a taste of the itinerary and route, interaction with local indigenous guides, campsites and Wiwa community project. Disclosure: This tour was sponsored and provided to us in conjunction with our partnership with G Adventures as Wanderers.

About this Lost City Colombia Trek Guide

When I researched the Lost City Trek as part of our travels in Colombia, I found a fair bit of conventional history about the site, often paired with a photo or two of the final destination, including what I refer to as the “golf course” shot.

What I didn’t find much of was information on what the actual journey to the Lost City was like, including the hiking experience, difficulty, landscapes, sleeping and eating conditions, weather, and more. That's the goal of this Lost City Trek day-by-day section.

The landscape along the trail is more beautiful and varied than we had expected and the Lost City site itself is far more extensive than most photos indicate. We especially appreciated having an indigenous guide to put everything into cultural and historical context.

Celso, a member of the local Wiwa indigenous community, shared his culture with us and linked it to the other indigenous communities, their relationship to nature and their shared connection to the ancient Tayrona civilization.

Our days usually began early, around 5:00 A.M., so we could get on the trail while it was still cool and so that we could complete our day’s journey before the rains of the mid-late afternoon. We appreciated getting up early, and we enjoyed all the benefits of the early morning – light, coolness and silence among them.

Lost City Trek Map

The map below shows the basic Lost City trail with different options for campsites and sections. We did a four-day hike, but if you opt for a five-day Lost City trek then your second and third days will be shorter as you'll have two days to complete that same route. The current G Adventures Lost City Trek is five days.

Hiking to the Lost City in Colombia: Day by Day Itinerary

Day 1 of the Lost City Trek

All Lost City treks, no matter which tour company you choose, seem to set off from Santa Marta in northern Colombia. From there, a jeep or van transfer takes 45 minutes along the highway.

You’ll likely stop at a convenience store for last minute snacks and water. From there, you’ll head up a dirt track into the mountains.

After you arrive in Machete, you’ll have lunch, say goodbye to the driver and meet your local indigenous hiking guide. Then, the hike begins. (Note: this is when you should ask the people coming off the trek if they have a walking stick they can give you. It is really helpful for balance and ease on the trail.)

The beginning of the walk eases you into things, with a swimming hole a close 25 minutes from the trailhead. After cooling off in the water, you’ll have a steep uphill for around 45 minutes, then a bit of a break, then a long descent into the valley where the first campsite is located.

Day 2 of the Lost City Trek

If you are doing a 4-day Lost City Trek, then this is a long hiking day. If you are doing a 5-day route like the G Adventures Lost City Trek then this will be a similar distance as the previous day, 7-8 km, to Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2).

The first segment of the day takes you uphill and across some beautiful terrain, including some local farms. After a jump in a swimming hole and lunch at Campsite #2 (Wiwa Camp), we continued all the way to Campsite #3 (El Paraiso or Paso Lorenzo Camp), located only 1 km downhill from the site of the Lost City.

If you are doing the 5-day Lost City Trek, then you would stop at Campsite #2 for the night.

This day takes you through a great deal of varied landscape — deeper into the tropical jungle, across rivers and by a couple of Kogi village communities along the way.

Day 3 of the Lost City Trek: Visiting La Cuidad Perdida

You rise very early on this day (around 4:30A.M.) so that you can set off at dawn and enjoy the Lost City in the softest light and coolest air possible. After a short walk from the campsite, you reach the starting point of the 1,200 stone stairs you’ll need to walk and scramble to reach the terraces of the city above.

It’s not an easy climb, and can be a bit treacherous if wet or damp, but if you take care and get into a meditative rhythm, you’ll find it goes very quickly.

After the steps, you’ll have reached the lower chambers of Teyuna, also known as The Lost City or Ciudad Perdida. It is believed that this was a capital city built by the Tayrona civilization in 800 A.D., approximately 600 years before the Incas built Machu Picchu in Peru.

When Spanish colonialists came close to finding or approaching the in the 16th century, the Tayrona people opted to abandon the city instead of allowing it to fall into Spanish hands.

Of course, the Lost City Colombia was never truly “lost.” Teyuna was overtaken by jungle for the next several hundred years, as only the shaman (holy men) of the four indigenous groups who live in the area were aware of its existence and would visit it regularly for ceremonies.

It wasn’t until the early 1970s that the site was “discovered” by the outside world. Tomb thieves cleared out much of the gold, valuable artifacts and other remains. Due to this misfortune and the fact that no written record of the Tayrona exists, much about the city and civilization remains the subject of speculation.

The Wiwa, Kogi, Arhuaco, and Kankuamo indigenous groups that remain in the area are believed to be the descendants of the Tayrona and have carried on their stories and traditions.

We noticed when we arrived at the Lost City, Celso let down his hair, the surprising length of which is said to represent the wisdom that flows from the sacred mountains through the rivers to the coast. He was dressed in white, as was his custom, to represent the purity and integrity of the snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, out of sight in the distance.

Throughout our journey, he shared stories that had been passed on to him, through generations, from shaman to shaman, from elders to children, about the Lost City / Ciudad Perdida. The stories told of its creation, the symbolism of the different terraces, and the Tayrona relationship with nature.

The indigenous people that inhabit the area around the Lost City in Colombia believe they are the symbolic “elder brothers,” there to protect both the sacred Sierra Nevada Mountains and their “younger brothers” – meaning the rest of us.

The sense of responsibility to the equilibrium and the good and health of others was evident.

After your visit to Teyuna, the Lost City, you return to El Paraiso or Paso Lorenzto Camp (Campsite #3) for a quick lunch and begin your return all the way to Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2).

For us, we were met with an afternoon downpour that made it feel as though we were skiing through mud crevasses in the rain forest. We were glad for the experience. It was actually more delightful than it sounds as the rain was warm and everything around was so green and lush drinking in the much appreciated water.

Day 4 of the Lost City Trek

Start/Finish: Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2) to Machete and Santa Marta
Distance: 12.7km
This is another early rise since much of the trail is uncovered and therefore becomes quite hot as the day goes on. Try to make it as far as you’re able before the sun becomes too strong.

As you’ll remember from your first day, much of the trail is up or down, without much in between. After a stop for fruit at the first campsite and a jump in the swimming hole, you find yourself back where you began, with a celebratory lunch in Machete.

Then you'll transfer by vehicle to Santa Marta for a nice, hot shower and to reunite with the rest of your stuff.

Lost City Trek Difficulty and Hiking Conditions

We’d give this trek a medium-high difficulty ranking for all the reasons we’re about to elaborate. This means that you should not require special training to hike the Lost City Colombia trail, but you should be relatively active and in good physical shape.

You should either be accustomed to or be prepared for day-long treks with steep, slow uphill climbs and long walks in intense heat and humidity.

Lost City Trek is Not a Technical Trail

The Lost City Trek is not at all technical, meaning that you will not need any special equipment (e.g., climbing ropes or other fittings). The trail is well-maintained and for the most part, it’s an easy path to follow. But, it’s necessary to have a guide to navigate the rivers and some turns.

You’ll have to cross a few streams or rivers — with river shoes on or with your shoes and socks in your hand — but that is part of the fun.

Altitude, Steep Hills and Valleys

Altitude is not really an issue, as the trek’s highest point is around 1,500 meters/4,920 feet. However, the Lost City trail seems to either be straight up or straight down without much flat so there's a lot of steep ascents and descents on the trail.

Our advice is to take it slow and steady on the uphill. Keep in mind that it’s not a race. It’s better to hike deliberately and slowly and take fewer breaks than to go quickly and wear yourself out with frequent and longer stops to recover.

Heat and Humidity

One of the challenges of the Lost City Colombia Trek is the combination of heat and humidity. I’m not sure we’ve ever poured sweat with such intensity and consistency. It actually felt great, like a cleansing process.

Just be sure that you drink plenty of water to replenish. Note that respite from the heat comes a couple of times a day in the form of rivers and swimming holes to jump into.

Bugs Along the Trail

Another challenge and irritation of this trek: bugs and their bites. There are lots of them, especially mosquitoes at the Lost City itself. We suggest applying plenty of bug repellent (bring on the DEET if you need to).

If you are especially susceptible to mosquito bites consider hiking in long trousers as Dan did. Finally, pick up a pack of generic B-complex tablets (“Compejo-B generico” runs 25 pills for $1.00) in a pharmacy in Santa Marta before the hike, as certain B vitamins are said to repel mosquitoes.

Another thing to watch out for are fleas and/or bedbugs in the hammocks and/or blankets at the campsites – this is where we collected most of our bug bites (especially campsite #2). We recommend carrying a sleep sack, so that you have another layer of protection while you are sleeping.

Finally, check your body closely for ticks when you emerge from the Lost City Trek. We each had a few on us; they are very tiny and difficult to see, so look closely. (Note: For advice on how to properly remove a tick, check out this article.)

Rain and Mud Along the Lost City Trail

We had been warned plenty about rain and mud, but didn’t find wet weather too much of a hindrance. Yes, it rained from time to time (usually mid-afternoon), but it was often so hot anyway that the cool rain was welcome.

Be certain any valuable electronic gear is well-protected and any dry sleeping clothes are at least wrapped in plastic (e.g., ziploc, garbage bags or a dry sack) inside your backpack. Then, have an outer backpack cover to protect your backpack from the elements.

If you fall in the mud, just go with the flow and don’t think about it too much. You can always wash yourself and your clothes later.

Best Time to Hike the Lost City Trail

While you will experience heat and humidity almost all year round in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of northern Colombia as it is a rain forest, there is still a rainy and dry season. December through March is considered the dry season and so it often is considered the bet time to hike the Lost City Trek.

In general, May through September is considered the rainy season for the region. This means expect more downpours and higher river crossings. That doesn't mean that you should avoid those months altogether as the rain can be a welcome relief from the heat and provide an interesting experience. For example, we did our G Adventures Lost City Trek in early June and thought the few rainfalls were kind of pleasant and added to the experience.

Note: The Lost City Trail is usually closed in September for trail maintenance and to do upkeep on the campsites and other services.

Lost City Trek Food

You will certainly not go hungry on the Lost City Trek. Each group is assigned a cook and not only will you be served three large meals a day (e.g., fish and rice, pasta, chicken and potatoes), but you will also enjoy well-placed fruit stops along the trail. These are very welcome for the additional boost of energy and hydration just when you need it.

If you are vegetarian or have food restrictions (e.g., gluten or lactose free), alert your trekking company and your guide in advance so they can respond accordingly.

Lost City Trek Campsites and Sleeping

There are a handful of different campsites along the way that the tour companies use. We can only speak firsthand to the ones that we stayed in — Adán Camp, Wiwa Camp, and El Paraiso — but we understand that the other campsites are quite similar in design, comfort and services.

Not always, but often, you’ll have an option to sleep in a hammock or on a mattress/bed (both with mosquito nets). We always chose the hammocks, but some may prefer mattresses.

There are cold water showers and flush toilets at all the campsites. Clotheslines will be strung around so you’ll be able to hang up your wet clothes from the day. However, the rain forest is damp so do not expect anything to fully dry overnight, if at all.

Evenings also get cool, so keep a long-sleeved shirt or fleece jacket handy at night.

Organizing a Lost City Tour: Your Options

Choosing a trekking operator

You cannot do the Lost City Trek independently (at this time), meaning you must go with one of the four or five authorized tour operators. We took our Lost City Trek with G Adventures and can highly recommend the experience.

G Adventures work with a local organization that provides indigenous guides so that their travelers are able to learn about the indigenous cultures and communities still living in the Sierra Nevada mountain area.

Regardless of which operator you choose to take you on the Lost City Trek, we suggest you select one that works with indigenous guides. The cultural and living history background is essential to a full Lost City Colombia experience.

How many days do you need for the Lost City Trek?

Most trekking operators offer four-, five- or six-day trek options. We did the Lost City Trek in four days, but now all the standard G Adventures Lost City Trek offerings are five days. As the route is the same, the main difference is that a five-day trek includes a relaxed day #2 with only a few hours of trekking to the second campsite.

As for the six-day option, we can’t really imagine taking that much time to do the trek. But if you are worried about your trekking abilities and stamina then talk with an operator regarding what they suggest.

Leaving your luggage behind during the trek

Most accommodation and tour operators/trekking agencies will allow you to leave your big bags or luggage with them for the few days that you're doing the Lost City Trek. We left our big backpacks at our hotel in Santa Marta and we saw other travelers leave their bags at the tour operator/trekking agency office.

Lost City Trek Essential Gear and Packing List

Much of what we include in our Hiking Essentials Checklist holds true for the Lost City Trek. However, we offer a customized Lost City Trek packing list with recommended hiking gear for this specific hiking experience. The goal is to ensure you have what you need for the tropical rain forest conditions but that don't overpack and weigh yourself down with a heavy backpack.

While there is the option on some of the route to hire a mule to carry luggage and belongings, it's best not to count on it. You should pack and plan as if you will be carrying your pack the entire length of the trail.

Trust us, pack light. You’ll quickly begin to feel the extra weight going up those steep hills.

Hiking Backpack for the Lost City Trek

When we did our Lost City Trek we just repurposed our regular travel and laptop daypacks. This worked fine at the time, but since then we have invested in real hiking backpacks that fit our backs better and don't cause any aches and pains in the shoulders or back.

Here are two recommended options for hiking backpacks that will fit the hiking clothing and gear you need, but not be too big or bulky:

• Women's Hiking Backpack: I have a larger version of this Deuter ACT Trail Pro SL Backpack (22-Liters) and love it. The SL backpacks are designed for women's bodies and I find this backpack fits me really well, is well designed with its own backpack cover and zippered areas, and is both light and sturdy.
• Men's Hiking Backpack: Dan loves Osprey hiking backpacks as they fit his body type (e.g., tall) and back really well. He likes the Osprey Stratos 24-Liter Hiking Backpack for day hies or for multi-day hikes like this where you don't need to carry a lot of gear.

Refillable Water Bottle for Drinking Water

You will go through several liters of water each day (if not, then you’re not drinking enough) since you’ll be sweating constantly. Bring with you 1-2 refillable water bottles or a water bladder so that you always have at least one liter of water on you at all times.

Each campsite offers clean water, so you can refill your water bottles every couple of hours on the trail. If you really want to play it safe consider carrying with you a SteriPEN or sterilization drops.

Consider bringing electrolyte sports drink tablets or packets with you to help you replenish some of the minerals that you’ll sweat out each day. And let’s face it, sometimes drinking liters of water gets boring and you want some flavor.

Walking Stick

We highly recommend carrying a walking stick. We were very thankful for ours, especially when things got muddy and slippery. Hikers just finishing and on their way out of the trail donated their wooden sticks to us. If this doesn’t happen, then ask your guide for one and he will find a walking stick for you, or fashion one for you with his machete.

Alternatively, bring your own walking sticks (these are good travel-friendly walking sticks). We usually just use one stick each so a set of two is sufficient for two people.

Hiking Clothing for the Lost City Trek

You really don’t need much in the clothing department. Don’t worry about packing clean clothes for each day. You will be sweating buckets within minutes every morning of getting out on the trail.

Here’s what we suggest for hiking clothing and gear essentials:

• 1 set of hiking clothes: T-shirt (preferably quick dry), shorts, hiking socks. This means you will wear the same clothes every day. Don’t worry about it. Everyone does it. And you’ll be thankful not to carry the weight of extra clothes.
• Note: if mosquitoes love you, consider wearing hiking pants the whole time. Dan did this and it cut down on his mosquito bites considerably. If you are especially sun-sensitive, consider bringing a very light long-sleeved hiking shirt, but be aware that you may be warm.
• Hiking shoes: We wore low-rise hiking shoes (his and hers) and these worked great for us. Other people wore light trainers, however some mid-ankle support is useful because of the pitch of the terrain.
• 1 set of evening clothes for post-shower and sleep: T-shirt, long pants (or pajama bottoms), socks. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside your backpack.
• Extra t-shirt: Just in case.
• Underwear for every day of your trek: With an extra pair thrown in for good measure, if you like. Recommended his and hers quick dry underwear for men and women.
• Extra pair of socks: Just in case your first pair get soaked beyond comfort while rock jumping at the river crossings.
• Bathing suit: Keep near the top of your backpack to have handy for swimming holes.
• Long-sleeved shirt: For cool nights or sleeping (recommended his and hers).
• Fleece jacket: For cool nights or sleeping (can double as a pillow, too).
• Rain jacket (optional): We didn't use ours due to the heat and humidity. We appreciated the cool rain. Not to mention, a rain jacket in the tropics can feel like a personal sauna.
• Flip-flops or river shoes: To use in river crossings, showers, and evenings when you wish to get out of your hiking shoes. Women's Tevas | Men's Tevas

Other Essential Hiking Gear

• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand. Your guide will likely also have a supply of plastic garbage bags in case you need extra rain protection.
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off after showers, and also after a swim. Hang it on the outside of your backpack in the morning so it dries quickly in the sun and air as you move.
• Silk sleep sack: To provide an extra layer between you and the hammock (or mattress) and blanket. Fleas and other bugs in the hammocks bit us and other travelers we spoke to.
• Headlamp: Most of the campsites do not have electricity, so be prepared. Carry your own headlamp to find your way to the toilet and to sort through your stuff at night in and around your hammock.
• Silicone earplugs: A precaution in the case your camp has a snorer. We know from our Lost City experience that this can demolish a good night’s sleep.

Toiletries and Health Kit

You will have access to a shower every evening, and you will be so thankful for the cold water shower to wash away all the sweat and salt on your body from the day’s efforts.

• Shampoo, soap, toothbrush and toothpaste: The basics.
• Sunscreen: The higher the SPF, the better
• Sunglasses: Of course.
• Bug repellent: You will apply this frequently, especially at the Lost City itself. The mosquitoes there are big, aggressive and plenty.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side.
• Pack of tissues or toilet paper: The campsites all have toilet paper, but it’s always a good idea to carry a pack of tissues in case of messes, spills or emergencies.
• Vitamin B Complex: Take one pill per day (called Complejo-B in Spanish, available at pharmacies in Colombia). Supposedly, mosquitoes don’t appreciate the smell and taste of your blood when B-1 Thiamine is present. It is debatable whether this really works to repel mosquitoes, but we appreciated using it and felt that it helped.
• Foot care and blisters: Duct tape is very effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet. Also consider picking up some Compeed, which is magic when you already have blisters.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Your guide will also have some basic first aid items with him, but it's always good to be prepared. Our basic medical kit includes: Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration powders or electrolyte tablets, Azithromycin/Ciprofloxacin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol/Panadol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea), tea tree oil (great to apply to mosquito bites) Note: all these are easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Santa Marta from where you depart for the trek.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

While a couple of the campsites do have electricity, it’s unreliable. Prepare yourself for not having access to electricity during the trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode. There is no connectivity along the trek anyhow, so don't waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. It provides another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spent time reviewing your images, as this will eat up your battery power quickly. Unless you are reviewing images to determine whether you’ve captured a specific shot, there will be time enough for photo review when your trek is finished.

Have other questions about the Lost City Trek in Colombia? Just ask in the comments below and we’ll incorporate the information into the article so others may benefit.

Disclosure: Our Lost City trek was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

The post The Lost City, Colombia: A Guide to Hiking to La Ciudad Perdida appeared first on Uncornered Market.

It's no secret that hiking and going on multi-day treks is one of our main loves in travel. We've gone hiking on all continents, from the top of Tanzania to the jungles of Colombia, and over the years we've become quite adept at packing efficiently and effectively for treks of all lengths and weather conditions. Our goal in figuring out the best hiking essentials and gear is to be prepared for changing weather, but to still pack light so we're not carrying a lot of weight.

After receiving numerous emails, queries and comments asking about how we prepare and pack for these multi-day and day hikes, we decided to assemble our hiking essentials checklist with our favorite gear and advice for hikes, long and short.

By way of background, during the first six years of our journey we carried all that we needed in our backpacks so as to be prepared for just about any kind of climate or activity, from beach to glacier. In retrospect, we made some silly decisions in those early days. As a result, we carried a few bits of gear we never used.

But through experience and experimentation and after about a dozen multi-day treks in all types of weather and altitudes, we got smarter and more effective in our packing for hikes. This isn't only regarding what hiking gear to carry with us, but also when it made sense to rent gear locally for the duration of the trek or even to buy the gear on the ground.

And we figured out how to do all this while on a budget.

What is the difference between trekking and hiking?
Good question. While this article does a good job breaking it down, for our purposes here we're using the two words somewhat interchangeably to represent going out and walking in nature for a period of time. This is different from mountaineering that usually involves specialized climbing gear and technical skills and backpacking that usually involves camping gear.

Note: The following advice applies mainly to multi-day hikes where your sleeping and eating arrangements are taken care of already (think guest houses, lodges, tea houses, home stays, yurts or even with a trekking agency that takes care of carrying your tent and food). If you are camping on your own, then you'll need to add food, camping, and cooking gear to everything below.

Update: This article was originally published in June, 2014 and updated last in May 2022 with additional gear and tips that we've learned from additional day hikes and multi-day hikes we've done during that time (e.g., Alay Mountains in Kyrgyzstan, 10-day Huayhuash Trek in Peru, a winter trek in Bhutan, hiking in Cyprus). We've added a section on winter trekking gear, a note on sustainability when thinking about hiking gear, and an updated Ultimate Hiking Essentials Checklist.

This article is long and covers a lot of different topics and types of hiking gear. Use the Table of Contents below to find the information and section that best suits what you're looking for and your needs. If the hiking gear that we originally bought and use is no longer available, we will find and recommend the closest current option.

Hiking Gear Myths: Don't Make The Same Mistakes as Us

We've made a lot of mistakes with hiking gear and packing for hikes over the years. Here are some of the trekking packing myths that we've discovered along the way.

1. You must purchase the latest and greatest hiking gear.

It's true that some trekking clothing technology is especially useful for lightness, wind-resistance, waterproofing and wicking (GoreTex, fleece, Polartec, etc., come to mind). However, we suggest focusing on the hiking gear essentials: clothing that is comfortable, breathable, light, easily layered.

You're not climbing to the peak of Mount Everest here. (If you are, that's for a different article altogether). For a little perspective, watching locals breeze by you in flip-flops might make all your fancy hiking gear seem a little unnecessary.

There's no need to overspend. Go for good quality so you can use it for a long time, but resist the shiny bleeding-edge hiking gear toys. I know it's hard. Outdoor stores are dangerous shopping vortexes for us, too.

2. You need to bring EVERYTHING with you.

For almost every multi-day hike we've undertaken, there's been ample opportunity to rent or buy gear to supplement our regular hiking gear kit. For example, it's just not practical for us to carry around bulky sleeping bags in our backpacks when we only need them a tiny fraction of the time during a trip.

Do your research and find out what is available on the ground and at what cost. Ask the tour company you're going with or reach out to other independent travelers who've experienced the same hike. When you land on the ground, shop around for the best price to rent or potentially even buy something used or new.

Before climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, we'd traveled through Bali, Malaysia, Bangladesh, Jordan and Thailand — all with the same gear in our backpacks throughout.

So it was more than worth the $65 I spent in Moshi, Tanzania to rent a sleeping bag, waterproof pants, waterproof jacket, walking stick, gaiters and more to get me to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro. Dan even rented hiking shoes for $15 which offered a little more ankle support and stability than the ones he'd been wearing.

When we departed for our safari just after the Kilimanjaro trek I could just drop all that stuff off at the trekking gear shop and continue with my regular light backpack.

3. Real treks require camping.

This is all subjective. It's true that camping and carrying all your own gear may give you a greater sense of independence and accomplishment and allow you to dive deeper into nature. However, we take issue with the assertion that camping equals a better hiking experience.

In fact, some of our most memorable hikes (e.g., Annapurna Circuit, Markha Valley Trek, Svaneti, Peaks of the Balkans, Kalaw to Inle Lake in Burma, etc.) have been memorable precisely because of the local culture and human interaction dimensions surrounding our sleeping and food arrangements with local families.

It's the combined experience of nature and people (and the human nature that responds to the surrounding environment) that we find truly soul nourishing.

READ MORE: 13 Best Offbeat Treks That You’re Not Considering…But Should

Packing for Your Hike: Hiking Essentials Principles

When it comes to packing for a hike in an efficient way so that you have maximum flexibility with minimum weight, we follow the following hiking essentials gear and packing principles and philosophy. This has come together over the last fifteen years with all the different treks we have done all over the world.

1. Hiking clothing: it's all about the layers.

This is true in all types of travel, long-term and short, but especially for hiking into high altitudes. Temperatures can change very drastically during the course of a day. I always prefer to have an extra layer in my bag than to go cold or wet.

Even if the days are warm at low altitude, nights may still be chilly. On summit days you'll often need to pile on everything you have to get to the top, only to peel it off layer by layer as you descend.

2. Hiking clothing for overnights: carry separate rest and sleeping clothes.

I learned this from the folks at Erratic Rock in Puerto Natales near Torres del Paine National Park in Chile.

They called the yucky, stinky clothes you'll find yourself wearing every day until the very end your “hiking uniform.” In light of this — and even if you are going minimalist — try to include an extra set of night clothes to change into at the end of the day to relax and sleep in. These clothes will be dry (quite important if you've hit snow or rain that day), comfortable and relatively clean (in comparison).

I usually pack an extra t-shirt, pajama pants and socks. I'll further layer other clothes on top to stay warm at night. Regardless, the layer closest to my skin is dry and relatively fresh.

Oh, the little joys while on the trail.

This technique also gives your wet and stinky clothes a chance to dry and air out overnight. The next morning you can slip back into your hiking clothes — yes, your uniform — and you'll be ready to go for another day on the trails.

3. Never skimp on sun protection.

As you advance higher in elevation, the sun becomes scary strong. So even if you tan beautifully on the beach without any sunscreen, be sure to pack ample and strong sunscreen once you head into the mountains. Carry a hat that will protect your face from the sun (think rollable foldable sun hat or baseball cap — we don't need to look pretty while trekking).

Hiking with sunburn — face, neck, or hands — is miserable. And if your sunburn is bad enough, you'll almost feel flu-like. Not good for peak performance.

Also be sure to have sunglasses with quality lenses that protect your eyes. Otherwise, they too will become burned and sore.

Choosing a Hiking Backpack

You’ll be carrying all your stuff on your back up and down mountain passes so the size, fit and comfort of your hiking backpack is super important. Aim to carry a hiking backpack that is big enough to hold the essentials (e.g., water, jacket, rain gear, sunscreen, etc.), yet not too big that it will weigh you down.

The size of your hiking backpack will depend on the number of days of your hike is, your sleeping and eating arrangements, and temperatures. No matter what, don't forget to bring a rain cover to protect your backpack in storms.

In the early days of our travelers we often repurposed our laptop backpacks or rented backpacks from trekking agencies. This usually did the trick, but they did not always fit use entirely and thus were not very kind to our back and shoulders.

We've since invested in proper hiking backpacks and haven't looked back. Our only regret is that we wish we had done this earlier to save ourselves some of that early discomfort.

Here are the hiking backpacks we're now using and can recommend for comfort, weight, size and convenient features.

Recommended women's hiking backpack

I really do love my Deuter ACT Trail Pro SL hiking backpack (32-liters) and take it with me every chance that I have. It's very light with all sorts of great functionality like a built-in rain cover, water bladder compatibility, wide waist belt for stability, and more. The SL means that it's designed for women's bodies and I don't know how much of a difference that makes, but I find that it does fit my back and body quite well.

Even after walking almost 1,000 km / 600 miles with it on my back during the Camino de Santiago, I still found it comfortable and had no issues with it. I've used this hiking backpacks both on multi-day hiking trips as well as on day hikes when I wanted to carry several layers of jackets and rain gear, a water bladder and other hiking essentials. Although it is a bit big for a traditional day pack, I still find it comfortable and light enough to serve this purpose.

Deuter no longer makes this backpack in 32 liters, but you can still find it or similar Deuter SL hiking backpacks in other sizes. Buy on Amazon (28-Liter) | Buy on REI (22-Liter) | Buy on Backcountry.com (34-Liter)

Recommended men's hiking backpack for multi-day hikes

The Osprey Exos hiking backpack comes in several sizes, so the Large version is well-suited for tall people (like Dan). Light, comfortable, and durable. This was the first hiking backpack that Dan used that didn't leave him with a sore back and shoulders at the end of the day.

The only complaint about this backpack is the walking stick holder as it's a little janky, but that's a small thing compared to comfort and all the other great features of this Osprey hiking backpack. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI (48-liter) | Buy on Backcountry

Recommended men's hiking daypack

As you know from above, Dan is a big fan of Osprey packs as they are adjustable and fit his back and torso well. So when he was looking for a smaller size daypack he stuck with Osprey and chose the Osprey Packs Stratos 24. This 24-liter size is great for day hikes or as a daypack on multi-day treks (e.g., when most of your hiking gear is carried by mules). Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI | Buy on Backcountry.com

Hiking Clothes for Men and Women

Below is an overview of the hiking clothes we each carry for a 5-10 day hike. If you are going on a shorter trek then you can cut back, but if your hike is longer you can still carry the same amount of clothes or even less (e.g., we carried a similar amount for our 40-day Camino de Santiago walk).

For longer hikes and treks you'll just need to “recycle” your hiking clothing more or find a way to wash them along the way. By recycle, I mean turn things inside-out, air them out, wash them. Whatever the best mechanism you have available to give it longer life and whatever your tolerance level might be. The most important thing is not whether you stink (there's a good chance you just might), but that you are dry and comfortable.

My approach is to carry and maintain separate hiking and sleeping (or relaxing at night) clothes so that you always have something clean(ish) to change into at night (see above for more details on this).

To be on the safe side to protect against things getting wet, put your sleeping clothes and whatever else you aren't wearing at the time in Ziploc or another kind of plastic bag.

Hiking Clothing: Base Layers and Mid-Layers

Hiking pants (one pair): We're both been using Clothing Arts Travel Pants (men's hiking pants and women's hiking pants) for over ten years on all of our day hikes and multi-day treks. These hiking pants are not only are sturdy (we've put them through a lot and they still look great), but they are also quick-dry and avoid stains and odors.

We find the additional secure zipper and buttoned pockets useful on treks for keeping phones, money, tissues and other things handy. (Note: This is especially relevant for women as many women's trekking pants hardly have any pockets of any size.)

Thermal underwear (top/bottom): I love my silk long johns as they are warm, comfy and take up almost no room at all. Also good is Uniqlo's Heat Tech collection of thin, but warm, layers of leggings and tops. Dan is still keen on his Patagonia zipper top and bottoms that he's been using for over 20 years.

2-3 short-sleeved t-shirts: Preferably quick-dry or regular cotton for comfort and versatility. We often use our running shirts on hikes as they are light and wick away sweat well. Plus, the bright colors of the shirts allow us to easily find each other when we're hiking at different speeds.

1 long-sleeved pullover or zipped shirt: When you need another light layer to go over your t-shirt for cold or sun protection. I've been enjoying a light zipped top for women and Dan's been using a half-zip pullover.

Pajama/sleeping pants: I find that cotton leggings or yoga pants work quite well.

Hiking Socks and Underwear

Underwear: However many pairs that you're comfortable with carrying. Underwear is light and doesn't take up much space so you have some flexibility here. Here are recommended men's boxer shorts and women's underwear.

3 pairs of socks: I love SmartWool hiking socks. Not only are they comfortable, but my first pairs lasted me almost seven years of very heavy usage. If you prefer a thinner sock check out their ultra-light line. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry

Hiking Outerwear: Jackets and Waterproof Gear

I always prefer to have the option to remove layers than to not have enough to put on when I'm beginning to chill as I head over a mountain pass or through a storm.

Waterproof Shell Jacket and Pants

For jackets, we each usually bring a light fleece jacket, thin windbreaker and some sort of outer waterproof or water resistant jacket.

Waterproof Jacket: For our recent trek in Peru I upgraded to a NorthFace Climatech technology waterproof jacket and I love it. It not only provided protection against the rain and cold, but the jacket material is very breathable so it didn't feel like a sauna inside. Highly recommended. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry

Waterproof Pants: We used to borrow or rent waterproof pants from a local trekking agency, but most recently we picked up a pair of light pull-on biking waterproof/water resistant pants. They fold up into a small bag so they barely take up any room or weight in your backpack, but keep you quite dry when the clouds open up.

Waterproof Poncho: If we really think we're going to be facing a lot of bad weather we'll also pack a waterproof poncho that goes over our hiking backpacks for extra protection. It can get steamy under the poncho, but it's worth it for that additional layer to keep you and your gear dry.

Light Down or Puffy Jackets

We've also started carrying a light down jacket that can be stuffed into a tiny cinch bag. It hardly takes up any room or weight in the backpack, but can provide warmth and comfort at night when temperatures drop. Dan loves his seamless ultra-light down jacket from Uniqlo. I carry a down jacket similar to this that packs up small and light.

Hiking Shoes and Other Footwear

Shoes may be the most important thing you bring with you so if you invest in one thing in advance, invest in a solid comfortable pair of hiking shoes. And break them in. Your shoes can literally make or break a trip.

Hiking Shoes or Boots

If you have a particular trek or hike in mind, ask in advance whether you need mid- or high support hiking shoes for ankle support as this may influence your purchasing decision. We don't find ourselves often needing high support boots. However, if your ankles are weak or susceptible to turns and sprains, more support is better than less.

We both recently shifted to wearing Oboz Sawtooth hiking boots. The insoles and support for your feet are really good, and the shoes are sturdy and can stand up to some tough terrain. In addition, Oboz plants a tree for every pair of shoes sold so you can feel good that your purchase is going towards reforestation and environmental projects.

Men's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry

Women's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry

Flip flops or river shoes

At the end of a long day of walking you may want to take off your hiking shoes and give your feet a rest. But you'll still need something on your feet to go to and from the outhouse or nearest bush. That's where flip flops or river shoes worn with socks (yes, ignore the fashion police) are perfect.

Outside of these situations, you may find river shoes either useful for crossing or fording rivers. Depending on the bottom surface of the river and the depth, we've also just managed in bare feet, but river shoes protect your feet from stray rocks and make the crossing more comfortable.

Women's Teva River Shoes: Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI | Buy on Backcountry

Men's Teva River Shoes: Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI | Buy on Backcountry

Other Hiking Gear Essentials

Sleeping and Drying Off Gear

Sleeping Bag Liner: Arguably non-essential, but nice to have. Whether staying in home stays with provided bedding or sleeping in a rented sleeping bag, you sometimes wonder when the last time anything was properly laundered. And you may also wonder about bed bugs and other critters. That's where a sleep sack with a pillow wrap comes in to provide a clean layer between you and everything else. Our preference is for a silk liner as it is very light, but keeps you quite warm and dries quickly. Buy on REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry

Note: We do not usually carry a sleeping bag with us as we prefer to rent one locally if we need one. This saves us a lot of room in our luggage.

Quick-Drying Travel Towel: Always good to start and end your day by washing your hands and face. Don’t expect hot showers on treks, nor running water of any kind. But on a few occasions we've been able to get a couple of bucket baths that were really, really nice. Buy on REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry

Silicone earplugs: A good night's sleep on the trekking trail is supremely important for your condition. And although you may be sleeping in the middle of nowhere, there are still noises from roosters, howler monkeys, birds, lions, and not least other trekkers that will all conspire to keep you up. That's where earplugs come to the rescue and help shut it all down to silence.

Trekking Poles and Walking Sticks

Walking stick: Highly recommended on most treks, especially for steep downhill sections. Two walking sticks or one, you ask? We'll usually share one walking stick set of two so each of us uses one stick. However, using two walking sticks will provide you with more stability. This set of reasonably priced travel-friendly walking sticks fold up easily for luggage and assemble quickly when on the trail.

If you don't bring a walking stick with you, then keep your eye out for a tree branch or limb that can be carved for the purpose. We've done that plenty of times as well.

Sharp Knife and Lights

Leatherman: A multi-tool device with a knife, bottle opener, screwdriver, and more comes in quite handy when on the trail. We use ours all the time for cutting cheese, vegetables, bread or other food items for picnic stops. Note: remember to take it out of your carry-on bag when you fly!

Headlamp: Lights the way and keeps your hands free. If you're staying with families in guest houses or home stays, you may find they are without electricity at night or in the bathroom/outhouse, a most unfortunate place to trip in the dark. If you're camping, headlamps are of course absolutely essential.

Water and Filtration

Reusable water bottle: We each carry a reusable liter water bottle on us and refill along the way with purified or clean water. We also usually carry CamelBak water bladder in the backpack as well as we find we drink more water this way as it's easy to access and you can easily hydrate while walking.

Even if your trek has bottled water to sell, resist the urge to buy it. Plastic bottle waste is an enormous problem at elevation and in villages around the world. If you get tired of the taste of regular water, consider adding some electrolytes to it.

Water Purification: Some treks will provide you with clean, boiled water as part of the service (e.g., Kilimanjaro, Markha Valley). Sometimes there will be a program of UV (ultraviolet) purified or pass-filter cleaned water services in villages where you can refill your bottle with clean water for a small fee. Hop on it, maybe even pay a little extra. It's worth it to you, the village, and the environment.

On other treks it's up to you to somehow purify or clean the water you source from mountain streams or village taps. We suggest carrying either a water bottle that has its own purifier, a SteriPEN or sterilization drops/tablets. We've found this 2-part water sterilization drop system to be good and doesn't make the water taste too much like chemicals.

The SteriPEN uses ultraviolet (UV) light and technology to purify the water which does not affect the taste so it still might taste funky even if it's clean. The sterilization drops may make the water taste a little funny, but it won't make you sick.

Sun Protection

Sunscreen, hat and sunglasses: Bring the highest SPF sunscreen you can find and wear a hat at all times. The sun's rays are exceptionally powerful at altitude and you'll find yourself especially exposed when there isn't a cloud in the sky.

Moisturizing skin cream and lip balm (with SPF): Creams and moisturizers may sound extraneous, but they can make a difference. Many mountain treks involve high desert where you will not only be exposed to lots of sun, but also arid conditions.

Your skin and lips will dry and crack to discomfort if you don't keep them moist. Treat them nicely: moisturize! And be sure to carry only a tiny lightweight container, not the original 32 oz. tube!

Personal Hygiene Items and Toiletries

Hand sanitizer gel and soap: One of the best ways to avoid becoming ill: wash your hands thoroughly and often. If you feel a little obsessive compulsive with the hand cleaning, that’s a good thing.

Toilet paper / tissue packets: One roll, used sparingly. Better to be self-sufficient here. No explanation needed. I often also keep a pack of tissues in my pocket as well for such emergencies.

First Aid Kit and Medicines

Basic first aid gear we recommend packing: Band-Aids, aspirin/Tylenol, rehydration/ electrolyte packets, anti-flu powder (a packet that dissolves in water that breaks fevers may work better than a pill if someone has been throwing up),

Foot care: Address any hot spots or blisters the moment you begin to feel them as they can get painful really quickly. Our go-to gear for preventing and treating blisters include duct tape (magic in preventing and managing blisters) and Compeed (magic when you already have blisters).

Medicines: You may be miles or days away from any doctor so be sure to have some basic medicines with you in case you (or others) fall ill. On our treks, we've picked up sinus infections and helped others who have picked up the wrong kind of gut bacteria. Having some basic medicines with us like Amoxicillin (or other basic antibiotic) has allowed us to deal with medical issues immediately and to keep going.

For a full list of travel medicines and how to use them, check out these travel health tips.

Note: You can easily stock up on medicines at pharmacies in many countries. Basic medicines such as the ones listed here and in the article above will likely not be very expensive and will often not require a prescription.

Other Useful Hiking Bags

Dry sack: You never know when it's going to rain or snow, so prepare for the worst — particularly if you have gear that must remain dry. We carry a dry sack with us in order to protect our gear against freak storms or inadvertent submersions while fording rivers. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry.com

Camera Bag: If you're carrying a separate camera and multiple lenses consider packing a separate camera bag to protect your gear and to allow you easy access to it.

Recently, we switched to a mirrorless Fuji camera and lenses. One of the main reasons for this was that they are smaller in size and weight, meaning I could carry a smaller camera bag on treks. I really like the ThinkTank Sling Camera Bag which fits a camera body and two lenses. Its shoulder strap is useful for urban settings while the waist strap makes it comfortable for hiking as it sits right on my hips. I can still wear a backpack or daypack that rests on top of it.

Hiking Snacks and Food

Snacks: Even if your meals are provided to you on a trek, it’s sometimes nice to have a little something to nibble on between stops. We usually bring a small stash combination of Snickers bars, granola/power bars, a jar of peanut butter and crackers. You'll want a little bit of both salty and sweet foods.

Electronic Gear and Chargers

Batteries, memory cards: It's usually better to assume that you won't find electricity along your trekking route. If you do, consider it gravy. Be sure to ask your trekking guide or agency, or other route-experienced travelers (either in forums or once you are on the ground). Ask them all once, then again for good measure. Bring extra memory cards for your camera so you have ample space to snap away or record video.

This means you should try to bring extra batteries for your camera, headlamp, and anything else that's battery-powered. If you're carrying your smartphone with you consider bringing a solar powered power bank and putting your phone on Airplane Mode to preserve battery life. We also use a battery case for our iPhone as this will usually provide 2x of the phone's regular battery life. And, it protects the phone if it is dropped accidentally.

If there's electricity along your trek and you'd like to recharge, by all means bring rechargers. We do. But it's just something else to pack — and something you must prioritize when the final bag stuff begins just prior to setting off.

READ MORE: Ladakh Trekking: A Beginner’s Guide

Winter Hiking Gear

We recently did our first proper winter trek — The Druk Path in Bhutan — and needed to gear up specifically for those conditions. This included temperatures going down to -10 C /14 F at night (and it felt even colder than that), potential snowfalls and walking on snow and ice.

However, daytime temperatures were quite pleasant and warm (15 C / 65 F) when the sun was out. So, we had to be prepared for all types of temperatures and conditions.

Winter Sleeping Bag

If you are doing a winter trek it is very important that you bring a warm sleeping bag so that you are not uncomfortable in your tent at night. We highly recommend buying or renting a sleeping bag that is COMFORT rated to -10 C/15 F (or even more). Even if you don't trek during the winter some places still get very cold at night and in the early morning. It's better to take off layers or unzip the bag than to not be warm enough. Trust us, being cold in your tent sucks.

We always prefer to rent our sleeping bags locally, but for our recent winter trek in Bhutan that wasn't an option so we had to bring our own. We purchased this Mammut Nordic OTI winter sleeping bag, which was warm enough, synthetic (vs. down, which requires more care) and came at a great price. However, it's a bit bulky and took up quite a bit of space in our luggage. (Here's a similar Marmot winter sleeping bag that is comfort-rated to 0F)

Another good sleeping bag option would be one of the down sleeping bags offered by Hyke & Byke (e.g., this sleeping bag goes down to 0 degrees F) as they are very reasonably priced for down and the quality of the bags. Here are some other winter sleeping bags offered at REI.

Winter Hiking Clothing and Gear

We didn't really change our clothing packing strategy or items listed above based on having lots of different clothing layers. Instead, we just added more — and heavier — layers together at one time for the early hours of the morning and in the evening after the sun set when temperatures were the coldest. Then, as we started walking and the day warmed up we'd take the layers off bit by bit.

This mean that our day backpacks always had several layers of clothing inside, including rain gear (jacket and pants), fleece and other light jackets, and a down jacket.

Here are a few other pieces of winter hiking gear we'd recommend, especially if you know there will be snow and ice on the trail.

Shoe gaiters: We picked up a knock-off North Face pair of gaiters in Paro, Bhutan before our trek to protect our shoes from getting wet from the snow on the trails. We were very thankful to have them, especially on day 3 when we woke up to a snow storm. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon

Crampons or Traction Cleats: If you're doing the winter trek and have fears of slipping on the ice, carrying a pair of lightweight traction cleats can provide peace of mind. Buy on Amazon | Buy at REI

Waterproof gloves: The only thing worse than cold hands are wet, cold hands. It's important to have waterproof gloves (or mittens) if you think you'll be trekking during a snowfall or rain. Buy on Amazon | Buy at REI

Hand or toe warmers: If your hands and feet get cold easily consider bringing a pack of adhesive hand and/or toe warmers. One of the women in our group in Bhutan had bad circulation and she used these adhesive warmers daily in her shoes and gloves. They were a lifesaver and really helped keep her warm and comfortable. Buy on Amazon | Buy at REI

Winter sleeping clothes: Even if it's cold in the tent I'll change into separate sleeping clothes as it feels cleaner and better to me. For winter conditions this meant heavier base layers, including a long-sleeve Uniqlo HeatTech shirt and warm leggings (or fleece-lined running tights worked really well). Then, I added to that a fleece jacket, socks, hat, and scarf to stay warm during the night.

Buying Sustainable Hiking Gear and Clothing

If you are concerned about sustainability here are a few considerations and things to think about regarding buying sustainable hiking gear and clothing:

• The most sustainable option is the one you already own. If you can reuse or repurpose a piece of clothing, backpack or other piece of hiking gear that is already in your closet, this is usually what is most sustainable as you don't need to purchase anything new. We realize this may not be particularly fun or sexy, but it is practical and also good for your budget.
• Buy second-hand hiking clothing and gear. There are more and more options available for purchasing high quality second-hand or “barely used” clothing and hiking gear, whether through 2nd hand or consignment shops or in online marketplaces. This is another great way to shop sustainably as you are reusing something (and perhaps preventing it from going in a landfill) vs. buying new (that takes a lot of resources).
• Buy from brands focused on sustainability and fair wages: If you can't meet your hiking essentials needs through the suggestions above, then purchase your hiking clothing and gear from brands that are grounded in sustainability in terms of sourcing, materials used, fair wages, packaging and more. Do research on your favorite brand's website to see how specifically they are tackling sustainability in their operations and products. For example, Patagonia has been a leader in sustainable practices and materials for decades. Not only that, but their products do tend to last a long time (Dan using his Patagonia long underwear for 20+ years is proof of that) and they also have a strong repair policy. Another brand whose clothing we like that is focused on sustainability is Prana. These are just two of many outdoor gear brands who are making good products that also focus on minimizing their negative impacts (e.g., environmental) and maximizing their positive ones (e.g., socio-economic). If you can't find the information you want on a brand's website then contact them directly and ask your questions. Any company truly focused on sustainability would be proud to respond with transparent answers.

The Ultimate Hiking Essentials Checklist – PDF Download

To help you pack and prepare for your next hike with all the right gear, we've created a simple one-page downloadable hiking packing checklist.

I know from experience when I haven't used this list that I have accidentally forgotten to pack a scarf, hat or river shoes. I really missed these items when I was out on the trail, but by that point it was too late. Now we're more careful to review that we have everything we need before going to the airport.

How to use this ultimate hiking essentials checklist:

• Print out a copy or save a version to your phone (that's what we do now).
• As you're preparing for your hike or trek, review the list to see if you have everything you need already. If not, the linked items on the list go to recommended gear that you can purchase online or look for in a shop.
• When you are ready to pack for your hike or trek, put all your trekking gear on the floor and go through the list one by one. Double check that everything is there before placing it your suitcase or backpack.

What did we miss? What are your go-to items and essential gear for hiking?

The post How to Pack For A Hike: The Ultimate Hiking Essentials Checklist appeared first on Uncornered Market.

We share here our favorite hiking trails in Cyprus, from coastal to mountain hikes. Whether you're interested in a hiking vacation or just to include a hike into your visit to Cyprus, here is all the information you need to plan your trip.

Cyprus, a Surprising Hiking Destination

With its rocky coastlines, dramatic cliffs, impressive Troodos Mountains, and forests filled with old, gnarly juniper, cypress and pine trees, Cyprus surprises as a hiking destination. Add to that pleasant weather almost all year around thanks to its position in southern Europe, a fascinating and long history, hearty local food and increasingly good quality wines, and you have all the ingredients for a well-rounded, active Mediterranean getaway.

Our goal traveling to Cyprus for a week: a vacation filled with hiking, sunshine, good food and wine — all rounded out by walks around the capital city of Nicosia and visits to archeological sites. To do this, we chose several hiking trails in Cyprus as the anchors of our one-week travel itinerary, then planned everything else around those hikes and whatever the weather gods threw at us.

For us, exploring Cyprus through its hiking trails allowed us to see the best of the island by way of its national parks and natural beauty including endemic flora and fascinating geological formations. This approach also helped us avoid many of the touristy areas and crowds that Cyprus can be known for.

If you’re interested in the best hiking in Cyprus and assembling an active travel itinerary, then this hiking guide has all you need to know. It includes our favorite hiking trails, the best time to go hiking, what to bring with you, and where to stay — all so you can plan, organize and enjoy your hiking trip to Cyprus.

This post is long as it includes everything in one place we needed to know before we took our hiking trip to Cyprus. Feel free to click on a specific section from the table below to get to the information you need.

Favorite Hiking Trails in Cyprus

Despite Cyprus being a relatively small island, its hiking trails feature a surprising diversity of natural landscapes and styles. As you'll see from our photos, each of the hiking trails highlighted below was unique to the others, making for a well-rounded hiking experience.

Most of the hiking trails below are located in protected areas and feature some trail markings, but we suggest downloading GPX tracks and/or using you favorite map app (we use PocketEarth for offline maps) or hiking app (we use Komoot and AllTrails). This way, you'll have at least one digital version of the trail in case you get lost. As Cyprus’ environment and nature is quite fragile, be sure to stick to marked trails and be gentle with the natural surroundings.

Be sure to check the forecast in advance as weather can change quite dramatically, especially in winter. Bad weather can make a hike unpleasant and, especially in the case of canyon hikes, dangerous. Early starts are recommended, both to take advantage of better weather in the mornings and to end early enough to seek out a sunset drink.

Finally, be sure to seize the occasional moment to take a deep breath, look around you, and appreciate where you are.

Note: All hiking trails noted below are in Republic of Cyprus, the southern side of the island. We did not hike any trails in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

Aphrodite Loop Extended – Best Hike for Coastal Views in Cyprus

Located in the northwestern part of Cyprus near the Akamas Forest, the Aphrodite Loop is deservedly one the island’s most popular hikes thanks to its dramatic cliffs and coastal views. The trail takes you past the Baths of Aphrodite and a waterfall grotto set in some botanical gardens, then up along some juniper-dotted rocky cliffs to the Moutti tis Sotiras overlook of Cape Arnoutis below.

On the descent the hiking trail makes its way past some ruins of a medieval monastery, a 500-year old oak tree and through diverse forests populated with local mountain goats.

We recommend following the Aphrodite Loop trail clockwise. This way, you begin your hike along the coast and continue climbing higher toward the cliffs, with the hills with sweeping coastline views beneath you. The trail markers indicate the opposite direction, which might make the hike easier and less steep overall. However, setting off along the coastline offers excellent light and pairs the best early morning weather with the coastline where you'll likely appreciate it most.

While the standard Aphrodite Loop is around 7.5 km / 4.7 miles, we turned onto the Adonis trail on our inland descent (after the monastery ruins) to add more distance (4 km / 2.5 miles) and some additional landscapes. The Adonis is a pleasant trail through old pine, cypress and juniper forests and grassy areas filled with grazing sheep and goats. Keep an eye out for all the wild sage, oregano and other herbs along the trail.

How to get to the Aphrodite Loop trailhead:

We drove from Paphos to the Aphrodite Loop trailhead, a beautiful route of around 50 km or 1 hour. Free parking is available near the entrance to the Botanical Gardens. There's also a public bus stop for bus 622 from Polis which you can connect to from Paphos and other locations.

Avakas Gorge Trail – Most Dramatic Hike in Cyprus

The depth of the Avakas Gorge makes this hike both stunningly beautiful and challenging. While most only hike the first kilometer or two into the gorge and turn back (this segment offers the most dramatic landscapes for the least effort), we encourage you to keep going until the end of the gorge.

For the fit and intrepid, the gorge deepens, winds and opens up in varied and striking ways. You may even run into some wild goats grazing in the hills along the way.

Unfortunately, the trail markings mostly end after the first kilometer or two, leaving you to follow the direction of the gorge and look for worn paths and footprints on either side of the stream. The trail becomes quite challenging at times, especially following rainfall (common in winter) as the water in the stream rises and the rocks become slippery. You may find yourself climbing over boulders and hugging onto cliffs, so be sure to wear good hiking shoes and carry your hiking poles.

The Avakas Gorge Trail continues through the entirety of the gorge until you reach a hilly, green pasture at the end. This is a good stop for a snack or picnic, or just to enjoy the bucolic scene of grazing sheep and goats around you.

Many Avakas Gorge hiking trails suggest you return again through the gorge, but we found a hiking trail south of the gorge up along the rim and through the Peyia State Forest. We recommend taking this trail back. This approach will offer some variety, be easier on your joints, and be faster than going back through the entire gorge again.

How to get to the Avakas Gorge trailhead:

We drove from Paphos to the Avakas Gorge, which was supposed to take around 30-45 minutes. However, beware of Google Map directions as it will suggest the shortest route, which includes going on some unpaved country roads until it reaches a road that has been washed out, forcing you to turn around (as it did us).

Instead, be sure to follow the directions which take you by the Avakas Gorge Road that approaches the gorge from the west (the coast). The last part of the road is not paved. We ended up parking around 0.5 km away from the trailhead parking lot, just to avoid taking our tiny rental car on the final stretch of the road that was full of bumps and holes. However, you can drive further to the parking lot at the trailhead. Just be advised.

It’s technically possible to get close to the Avakas Gorge by public bus, but you’ll have to switch buses times and have a bit of a walk at the end to get to the trailhead.

Atalante Trail – Best Troodos Mountains Hiking

It may surprise you, but Cyprus has mountains!

The Troodos Mountains in the center of the island of Cyprus features a peak of close to 2,000 meters / 6,400 feet at Mount Olympus. Not only does this mean skiing in the winter (yes, Cyprus has ski resorts), but it also means some terrific Troodos Mountains hiking trails.

We opted for the Atalante Trail Loop as it did a circle around Mount Olympus and was a bit longer and more difficult than the Artemis Trail (8 km / 5 miles).

When we hiked the Atalante Trail in early January most of the hiking trail was covered in snow, sometimes several inches deep. While the snow made it tricky at times to follow the trail — thankfully a few others had gone before us so we could follow their footsteps and we had our digital tracks/map — it also made our walk beautiful and somewhat magical.

We recommend following the trail clockwise from the trailhead near the parking lot, just as we did. The trail is fairly well marked and the first few kilometers of the Atalante hike take you through some beautiful old forests punctuated by gnarly juniper trees and other local endemic growth.

The vista then begins to open up so you can look west over the hills to the coast. The loop continues around past the ski resort and through more tall pine forests

Note: If you visit Cyprus in winter, be prepared for possible snow in the Troodos Mountains. We knew this in advance and came prepared with layers of jackets, hats, and gloves. We also highly recommend taking hiking poles on this route, no matter what the weather, as some sections are steep and can be slippery.

How to get to the Atalante Hiking Loop trailhead:

The Troodos Mountains are located almost halfway between Nicosia and the coast (Paphos or Limassol). The Atalante trailhead and free parking lot are located right next to Troodos village. We drove there from Nicosia, which takes around 1.5 hours on the fast route or 2 hours on the country roads. After our hike we then drove to Paphos, which took around 1.5 hours. There are also a couple of buses that will take you to the main square in Troodos village from Nicosia or Limassol.

If you want to do several hikes in the Troodos Mountains, you could consider staying in Troodos village or in a nearby town so that you can get an early start on the trails.

Cape Greco Hiking Trail, Sea Caves to Konnos Beach

There are a several different hiking paths around Cape Greco National Forest Park and out to Cape Greco itself. Many paths are quite short and just go to the sea caves, up to the Cape Greco Viewpoint or to visit the picturesque Ayioi Anargyroi Chapel. We wanted something a bit longer and more continuous to stretch our legs and see more of the natural landscape along Cyprus’ eastern coast near Ayia Napa.

Most of the dramatic scenery is in the first 5-6 km / 3 – 4 miles along the coast. The path we took then returns to the trailhead via an inland route.

This Cape Greco hike took us first to the sea caves, a collection of sandstone rock formations that stand in dramatic contrast to the crystal clear turquoise waters below. We then continued along the coastal trail past the hilltop with a view over the entire cape.

You can opt to take one of the hiking trails up to the viewpoint, but we continued east along the coast. The landscape changed frequently, from dry, rocky desert-like conditions to fields of green and blossoming flowers.

The trail then continues along the coast past the blue lagoon and the natural rock bridge to Ayioi Anargyroi Chapel. Take the stairs to a sea cave that you can scramble into. (Be sure to time your entrance and exit so that you and your camera are not soaked by crashing waves.)

We continued to Konnos Beach where we doffed our shoes and walked across the white sand beach. If we had had our bathing suits with us, we would have gone in — it was just warm enough even in winter. We returned via the hiking trail following the road.

How to get to the Cape Greco Sea Caves trailhead:

We drove from Larnaca (around one hour) and parked near the sea caves at the marker indicated on the map above. You can also park closer to the sea caves. There's plenty of space to park there.

As for public transportation, you can catch bus 101 from Agia Napa waterpark to the sea caves or the Cape Greco National Forest Park entrance.

Hiking in Cyprus: What to Pack

Because the hiking trails in Cyprus we recommend here are day hikes that take only a few hours, you really don’t need to bring much with you. Just be sure to carry clothing layers to protect from the elements — sun, rain or maybe snow. Always be sure to carry plenty of drinking water with you.

You can also find a full list of our favorite hiking gear and essentials.

• Hiking Daypack: We shared one hiking daypack between the two of us. This was more than enough space to carry the essentials for our day hike.
• Hiking Shoes: We saw some people hiking in sandals or sneakers. While that works for some of the easier hikes, we recommend wearing hiking shoes to provide your feet with support and traction for climbing over boulders and steep inclines and descents.
• Hiking Poles: For lighter hikes, we typically share one set of trekking poles between the two of us (i.e., we each use one pole). We were especially thankful we had these on the Avakas Gorge Hike and Atalante Loop Trails. We recommend this foldable traveler set of hiking poles as they are easy and light to carry.
• Drinking water and snacks: Many of these Cyprus hiking trails are far away from shops and services, so be sure to bring your own water and snacks with you on your hike. Temperatures can get very warm, especially in the summer, so make sure you bring LOTS of water with you to avoid dehydration. One of the unfortunate things in Cyprus is that tap water is not potable (all the locals we met advised against drinking it) so bring a water bottle that also purifies or buy large (e.g., 5-10+ liter) containers of water and refill your own reusable water bottle.
• Sun protection: Even in the winter, the sun can be strong in Cyprus. Be sure to carry plenty of sun protection with you in the form of sunscreen (the highest SPF you can find), hat, and sun glasses.

Best Time to go Hiking in Cyprus

We hiked Cyprus in winter, over the New Year’s holidays, from the end of December to the beginning of January. We thought it was a great time to go hiking as the weather along the coast was beautiful most of the time with highs in the mid to high 60s F / 18-22 C. The added bonus of this time of year: we also experienced fresh snowfall in the Troodos Mountains.

In addition, there weren’t many people on the hiking trails at this time of year. However, Cyprus winter weather can be very changeable — including rain — so be sure to stay tuned to weather forecasts and remain flexible when planning and taking your hikes.

Several local people we spoke to said that spring (March-early May) offers great hiking weather since it’s precedes the hot summer season and offers the chance to see wildflowers blossoming along many of the hiking trails. A few others recommended November since temperatures have cooled off from the warm summer and early autumn, but the winter rains have not yet arrived.

Summer is the most popular time in general to visit Cyprus, especially for the beaches. However, we’ve heard that summer (June-September) is not the best time for hiking in Cyprus given the high temperatures (90+ F/30+ C) and intense sun.

If you hike Cyprus in the summer months, be careful to avoid heat exhaustion and overexposure from the sun, particularly in the wide open areas along trails. Carry LOTS of water with you.

Planning a Hiking Focused Cyprus Trip: Our One Week Travel Itinerary

When we assembled our one-week Cyprus travel itinerary, we focused mainly on finding the best hikes in Cyprus and used those as our anchors. We then figured out a general route to travel around the island, noting places we could stay and base ourselves along the way (see below).

We also watched the weather at all times as it changed frequently. Since we traveled in Cyprus during the low season and had a rental car, we were able to remain flexible and book accommodation pretty last minute.

Here is our final Cyprus travel itinerary for one week that included four day hikes, a 2-day stop in Nicosia (where it rained) and visits to archeological sites.

• Nicosia remains a divided capital city, with the southern side of the city as part of the Republic of Cyprus and the northern side of the city as part of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. The United Nations Green Zone, a buffer zone, divides the two sides. There is an official border crossing which is very easy to cross at the moment.
• Wander the streets in the Nicosia's old town (southern side of the city). We did a variation of this self-guided walking tour, but in reverse order. For more recommendations, check out this Nicosia travel guide by our friend Steve and try to get your hands on the Use It Nicosia map/guide as it's got lots of great restaurant and cafe recommendations, as well as historical, cultural and other info presented in a fun and light way.
• We highly recommend a visit to the Cyprus Museum (free entrance at the time of writing). This small but jam-packed archeological museum is filled with well-interpreted antiquities going back almost 10,000 years. The museum does a remarkable job illustrating Cyprus’ long history and civilizational influences over the millennia.

• Cross the border to the northern side of the city (Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus). As of January 2022, you need proof of a negative PCR test (less than 7 days old) and full vaccination to cross into the Turkish side.
• Follow the blue line that takes you past most of the major sites on this side (mosques, markets, caravanserai, etc.). Once in the northern side of Cyprus, you'll notice that the currency and language both change to Turkish. Despite this, you'll likely get along fine with your Euros and English, and even your credit cards in some restaurants and businesses.

• The Troodos Mountains are between Nicosia and Paphos on the coast. Stopping off in Troodos for a hike like the Atalante Trail is a great way to break up the drive and get a feel for Cyprus' mountains and the geological diversity at the center of the island.
• Where to stay in Paphos: We stayed in a convenient studio apartment a short walk to the sea, archeological sites, restaurants and shops.

Note: There is also an airport in Paphos in case that offers more convenience for your Cyprus itinerary.

Renting a car in Cyprus

We really appreciated having a rental car on Cyprus. It gave us a lot of flexibility. which proved especially helpful because of the changing weather. A rental car also allowed us greater spontaneity to stop off in different places along the way. During the time of our visit, rental car prices were very reasonable (e.g., around $20 USD a day including insurance). And since the island isn’t very big, we didn’t spend a lot of money on petrol.

All of the hiking trails above featured free parking lots and most of the places we stayed in Cyprus also had free public or inexpensive private parking lots.

Driving in Cyprus is on the left-hand side of the road. If you’ve never experienced this, note that it takes some practice and getting used to.

Podcast about Hiking in Cyprus and Our Itinerary

If you prefer an audio version of all this, you can listen to our interview about our travels in Cyprus on the Amateur Traveler Podcast. We talk about all the details of our one-week itinerary and all of the Cyprus hikes we recommend in this article.

If you've only thought of Cyprus as a beach getaway or resort destination, we hope this Cyprus hiking guide has provided a different perspective on the island as a hiking destination. From the coastlines and cliffs to the gnarly, old juniper forests and mountain vistas, Cyprus offers a lot of hiking trails and options, making it a pleasant, worthwhile and surprising Mediterranean hiking getaway destination.

The post Hiking in Cyprus: Best Hiking Trails and Travel Itinerary appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Over the last years we've been fortunate to do some incredibly beautiful and challenging hikes around the world, yet hiking in Bhutan remained high on our travel wish list. We were curious about the trekking experience given the country's location in the Himalayas, its focus on environmental conservation and the fact that Bhutan sees so few visitors.

We chose to hike the Druk Path Trek, one of Bhutan's most popular trekking routes, in late January-early February. Our decision to do a winter trek, something that we had never done before (we usually flee the cold), provided a new sort of adventure, experience and challenge for us.

The experience did not disappoint. We enjoyed the winter trekking experience, appreciating the snow, stillness and silence. The following tells why — and makes the case as to why you might want to add trekking in Bhutan, whether the Druk Path Trek or another route, to your trekking wish list.

We’ve included in this Bhutan Trekking Guide all you need to know to plan, prepare for and enjoy trekking in Bhutan. In addition, we provide some information about a new trekking route in Bhutan – The Trans Bhutan Trail — recently restored and opening up again to the public in April 2022 for the first time in 60 years.

The following experiences are from our Druk Path Trek on a tour to Bhutan with G Adventures. Currently, this tour no longer includes the Druk Path Trek as part of its itinerary, but if you want to go trekking in Bhutan then we recommend looking into the G Adventures Camp the Trans Bhutan Trail (11 days) or Highlights of the Trans Bhutan Trail (12 days). If you want to know what to expect on a trek in Bhutan, this article shares a taste of a trekking itinerary and route, trek difficulty, campsites, food, and what you need to pack and prepare. Disclosure: This tour was sponsored and provided to us in conjunction with our partnership with G Adventures as Wanderers.

Bhutan Covid Travel Requirements

Bhutan is opening up to all tourists on 23 September, 2022 without any quarantine requirements (check for official updates). Bhutan used its focus on community and trusted leadership to manage the pandemic quite well. In April 2021, Bhutan was able to vaccinate 85% of adults (first shot) in just one week and in early 2022 the country was finishing up a booster vaccination campaign. This shows the country's commitment to public health and protecting its people.

Find more Covid-19 travel resources and recommendations on how to travel responsibly during Covid with care towards the health and safety of local communities and people.

The Trans Bhutan Trail: A New Trekking Route in Bhutan Starting in 2022

The history of the Trans Bhutan Trail is deep and goes back thousands of years as an ancient trading and pilgrimage routes between Bhutan and Tibet. The trail not only connected fortresses, or Dzongs, across remote areas of the Bhutanese Kingdom, but it was also used by Buddhist pilgrims to visit sacred sites and temples in western Bhutan and Tibet.

Although the trail was actively used for centuries as it was the only way to get to certain remote parts of the country, it fell into disrepair and disuse in the 1960s. Repair of the trail began in 2018, but the restoration of the Trans Bhutan Trail was accelerated during the Covid-19 pandemic as 900 furloughed workers worked to rebuild bridges and create hundreds of miles of footpaths.

The Trans Bhutan Trail is being opened to the public in April 2022 so travelers, local people and pilgrims can walk this ancient trail once again. The total length of the Trans Bhutan Trail is 403km / 250 miles long, going from Haa in the west to Trashigang in the east. Don't feel like you have to do it all; you can select shorter segments of the trail to experiences specific mountain landscapes and culture.

The goal of hiking the Trans Bhutan Trail is not only to be able to enjoy the stunning landscapes and nature of the high Himalayan mountains, but also to connect with local people, culture and communities along the way through village homestays, sourcing food from local farms, and other community initiatives so that rural communities also benefit from the trail and tourism.

In addition, the Trans Bhutan Trail is focused on several sustainability initiatives to conserve the natural environment, from a zero plastics policy along the trail (which also includes providing refillable water bottles and filtered water) to planting a tree for each international visitor.

Our partner, G Adventures, was selected as the first group adventure tour operator to offer trekking tours when the trail opens in 2022. This speaks to the alignment of values regarding community tourism and sustainability.

Currently, G Adventures is offering two different active tours that include selected segments of the Trans Bhutan Trail. This includes the G Adventures Camp the Trans Bhutan Trail (11 days) that has a similar style as the tour that we took as it includes four days of trekking with several nights of camping. Alternatively, Highlights of the Trans Bhutan Trail (12 days) also includes several days of hiking the Trans Bhutan Trail, but has more family homestays and guesthouses for overnights than camping. Both tours include both trekking and visiting some of Bhutan's famous monasteries, temples and sites, so it's a good balance of experiences and immersion into Bhutan's nature, culture, history and cuisine.

What to Expect on a Bhutan Trek: The Druk Path, Day by Day

The Druk Path Trek, or Thunder Dragon Path, takes you approximately 36-45 km (22-28 miles) through pine forests and rhododendron thickets, along mountain ridges and past alpine lakes in the lower Himalayan Mountains in western Bhutan. The trail follows an ancient mule route connecting Paro and Thimphu, and the area plays home to yak herders in the summer months. The highest point of the trek is Labana Pass at 4,200 meters / 13,800 feet. Much of the trail and its campsites sit at a similar and fairly high altitude, so the Druk Path Trek is considered a medium-difficulty trek.

When I researched the Druk Path Trek, especially for information regarding winter trekking and conditions I found plenty of tour itineraries. However, I didn't find many details or images of the different landscapes and experiences — and possible weather — along the trek.

That's what this “Day by Day” section is aimed to do: to help you understand the actual trek journey and give you a sense of what you might encounter and experience each day, including the camping, difficulty of the trail and landscapes.

Our days usually began early, with tea served to us inside our tents around 6:30 A.M. Breakfast followed around 7:00. The goal was to set off on the trail in the morning when the skies were still clear and the sun had the chance to warm things up. As is typical in the Himalayas, clouds might develop as the morning and day unfolded.

Note: The route below is for the four-day Druk Path Trek that we took with G Adventures in late January. Many tour companies offer this as a five to six day trek, but we found that four days was perfect for us in terms of the daily distance, difficulty, breaks and free time in the evenings at the campsite. If you are in reasonable shape and have some experience trekking at altitude then four days for this trek should provide ample time.

Our trekking guide made a couple of adjustments to our route due to winter conditions so that the mules carrying our gear wouldn't injure themselves on the snow and ice. If you do the Druk Path Trek in the spring or fall you might notice a few differences to the route below, but most of it will be the same. Also, our guide said that our small group walked rather quickly. Some daily hiking times might be longer if your group is larger or has less experienced trekkers. Note: the hiking times below do not include resting, snack and lunch breaks.

Day 1: Ta Dzong to Jele Dzong Temple to Tshokam

Most Druk Path Treks set off from outside Paro in the early morning. You'll make your way by van transfer along a relatively new dirt road rising into the hills for around 30-45 minutes. (Prior to the road being built, this segment was part of the actual trek.).

At the conclusion of this short ride, you'll meet your trekking support team: a cook, assistants, mule handlers and a group of mules to carry your tents, your allotted camping and trekking gear, all the food and cooking gas, and the kitchen, dining and bathroom tents.

The start of the walk begins on the dirt track and eases you into things with a slow and steady incline that takes you into mid-alpine woods. Eventually this turns into a steep uphill for around 45 minutes through beautiful forest trails until you reach a clearing where you begin to get above nearby hills and have a view of the valley below.

After a short incline you'll reach the 15th century Jele Dzong temple and take a tea break. The temple guardian was away during the time of our visit. If he's around, you'll be allowed to explore inside.

We continued onward alternating between forest paths and trails along the edge, revealing valley views and mountain layers in turns. At one of the clearings we stopped for lunch, a hearty meal of rice and several hot dishes.

We began our final push towards the Tshokam (Dry Lake) campsite (3,800 meters/12,500 feet) on mostly flat trail. When we arrived, our tents had already been set up for us, which is always nice to see after a day of hiking.

We took the free time and enjoyed the last bit of sunshine with some snacks and tea outside. It gets cold once the sun sets, so we enjoyed a bonfire before and after dinner.

Day 2: Tshokam to Janytscho to Simkotra Lake

While this is a shorter trekking day than the first, it features a couple long, steep inclines which make for a bit of a challenge. Our guide had to make a few adjustments on this day due to snow and ice on the trail. As a result, we didn't go on the higher (and longer) trail to Jimilang Tsho lake as it was dangerous for the mules.

The first segment of the day is relatively flat and takes you on a forest trail along a stream and over a bridge. After a short break there, you continue to a clearing called Narithang for some mid-morning tea and snacks.

Then the uphill really begins. This was a steady climb of a couple of hours through the forest. The idea: go slow and steady on the steep incline so that you maintain a consistent pace as you climb in altitude. The trail continues from the woods onto a clearing at Janytscho which overlooks the lake. This is where we stopped for lunch and a rest, but we've heard that some groups will stop here to camp for the night.

It was a winter trek after all, so we encountered some snow and ice on the trail at this point, so we and the mules had to be careful on the ascents and descents. The path continues along a rocky ridge until you reach Janye Tsho, an overlook draped with prayer flags and offering views of the nearby snow-covered Himalayan mountains in the distance.

It's an easy and short walk from here to the campsite near Simkotra Lake at 4,000 meters / 13,100 ft. As this is the highest elevation campsite of the Druk Path Trek, expect it to also be the coldest campsite at night. Be sure to bundle up with lots of layers, especially if you are doing the trek in winter, early spring, or late fall.

Day 3: Simkotra Lake to Labana Pass to Phajoding Monastery

This was my favorite day of the Druk Path Trek as it not only took us to the highest point of the trek — Labana Pass at 4,200 meters / 13,800 ft — but it was also filled with a diversity of landscapes, experiences and views. Note: Sometimes trekking groups camp before Labana Pass making it part of the fourth day.

We woke up to a blanket of snow everywhere at Simotra Tsho. This meant that some of the views we were supposed to have that morning of the high Himalayas were obscured by the clouds. Instead, we enjoyed some remarkable landscapes in the beauty of their winter stillness and silence as the snow continued to fall for the first couple of hours.

The trail is a combination of a gentle uphill and flat through endless rhododendron patches until you reach the final ascent towards Labana Pass (4,200 meters / 13,800 feet). This final push is a bit steep, but you'll be rewarded at the top with prayer flags and excellent vistas, including of the valley below and of the snow-covered mountains of Dochu La and Jhomolhari in the distance.

The trail then descends into the valley on a rocky ridge path for another hour or more. We stopped for lunch before continuing up along a chain of small hills until we reached a chorten atop one final peak overlooking Thimphu, Bhutan's capital city.

Descend into Thimphu Valley on a rocky trail for around 30-45 minutes until reaching Thujidrak Goemba, a Buddhist temple and meditation center stitched into the mountain rock face at 3,950 meters / 13,000 feet. We were fortunate that a local monk was around. He let our group inside to see the 14th century temple.

From there it was an easy walk downhill through fields to reach Phajoding Monastery. The camping area on the monastery's edge had recently been closed to trekkers so our group ended up staying, with the permission of the resident monk and school principal, in the monastery's abandoned schoolhouse.

Since temperatures dropped quite considerably that night, we were thankful for the protection the building provided from the wind and cold. However, a new camping area is being set up for future groups.

Day 3: Phajoding Monastery to Thimphu

This final day is very easy, with a relatively short downhill hike. The dirt trail from the monastery continues through the forest, and becomes steep at times, so use your walking sticks and be careful.

As the elevation decreases, the trees and flora begin to change. You hear signs of “civilization” below as cars and trucks use the mountain roads.

The trail ends at the edge of the forest, near one of the prince's residences. Our tour driver met us with a big smile, a selection of local beer, cake and other snacks. This is where you'll say goodbye to your trekking support team and the mules that carried all of your gear during the trek.

Bhutan Trekking Difficulty Level and Conditions

We’d give the Druk Path Trek a medium difficulty ranking given its length, inclines and altitude. You should be accustomed to or be prepared for slow, steep uphill climbs at reasonably high altitude. A couple of the people in our group felt that the long ascents and hills on the first day were quite difficult, but this broke them in and they didn't have problems with any of the climbs during the rest of the trek.

If you are already relatively active and have some experience trekking at altitude you shouldn't have any problems along this trek, nor should you require special training. However, if you don't have a lot of hiking experience then consider doing a series of long day hikes, preferably with hills, prior to this trek. In addition to preparing you physically, this will help build your confidence.

The winter conditions made this trek a bit more challenging for us at times as we had to watch our footing more in the snow and ice. Nights were also very cold (down to -10 C / 14 F). This did not impact the trek experience or its difficulty much.

The Druk Path Trek is not technical, meaning that you will not need any special equipment (e.g., climbing ropes or other fittings) or training. The trail is well-maintained and is easy to follow. Even in the winter, none of us had any special ice or other gear, just some gaiters to prevent the snow from getting in our shoes.

Dealing with Altitude When Trekking in Bhutan

The Druk Path Trek does take you pretty high, up to 4,200 meters / 13,800 feet, at its highest point. In addition, the first two campsites are just below and just above 4,000 meters / 13,100 feet. This means that you need to be prepared for hiking and sleeping at altitude. If you don't have experience at altitude, be sure you talk with your trekking guide about what to expect and possible symptoms of altitude sickness.

Take it slow on the uphills. It's better that you walk at a steady pace and take fewer breaks than to quickly wear yourself out by speeding up the hills and needing to recuperate with frequent and longer stops. Proceeding at a slow, steady pace will also allow your body time to adjust to the high elevation.

Be sure to drink lots and lots of water, as in liters per day. This is one of the best ways to prevent potential altitude sickness. Consider using a water bladder in your day pack and drink from it regularly as you walk. I find I drink more water this way than with a water bottle, that usually requires a stop to get it out the bag.

Our tour included an acclimatization hike to Kila Goempa outside of Paro. This helped us adjust to the terrain and the altitude. If your tour does not include this, be sure to ask for an acclimatization hike. Acclimatization is important to gauge how your body reacts to altitude. It also prepares your body for the multi-day trek ahead.

Snow, Rain and Mud Along the Druk Path Trek

Since we chose to do the Druk Path Trek in winter (late January/early February), we understood that we might encounter snow. We packed — and at times wore — waterproof/water resistant pants, jackets, and gaiters to protect us from the snow, wet and cold.

We did not find the snow and winter conditions a problem, but a feature and differentiating factor of this trek and timing it in winter.

During other times of year, especially in May as you get close to the rainy season, you might encounter some rain and mud along the trail. It's always good trekking practice to carry waterproof layers or a rain poncho with you to protect you and your daypack from rain and the elements.

See the packing list section below for recommended trekking gear to pack to keep you warm and dry, and protect you from the elements.

Food Along a Trek in Bhutan

You will certainly not go hungry while trekking in Bhutan! Each trekking group is assigned a cook and a couple of helpers. In addition to three hot meals per day you will also have several tea breaks and snacks (e.g., cookies, popcorn) along the trail and when you arrive at the campsite.

On our Druk Path Trek, breakfast included a combination of a hot dish (e.g., eggs or oatmeal) with toast and different toppings (peanut butter, jam, honey, etc.). For lunch and dinner expect several options of Bhutanese vegetarian dishes (e.g., chili and cheese, sauteed greens, vegetables and cheese, etc) and a meat dish or two (e.g., chicken, beef or pork curry) served with rice or noodles. We ate mainly from the vegetarian options as we prefer lighter, vegetarian meals when we trek.

If you are vegetarian, vegan or have food restrictions (e.g., glucose or lactose intolerance), alert your trekking company and your guide in advance so they can respond accordingly.

Campsites and Sleeping Arrangements

The Druk Path Trek has a few standard campsites that are located on flat ground and near a water source. By the time we would arrive at the campsites, our 2-person tents and sleeping mats were already set up for us by the trekking support team (luxury, I know!). A large tent is also set up for eating meals together.

At night we would usually have a bonfire made from dead or fallen tree or bush branches (it's illegal to cut down branches) to warm us up as it got rather cold once the sun went down. Just before bedtime we were given hot water bottles to put in our sleeping bags – so nice!!

Each morning hot tea or coffee was delivered to our tent at around 6:30 AM as a wake up call. A bowl of hot water followed to wash our face, hands, etc. We would then pack up the stuff in our tent before taking breakfast in the dining tent at around 7:00AM.

There are no showers or permanent toilets set up at the campsites, but the trekking support team set up a camping latrine or toilet at each one. Please use this instead of going off into the woods so that all waste and toilet paper is collected and disposed of in one place.

Best Time to Go Trekking in Bhutan

The high season for trekking in Bhutan, including the Druk Path Trek, is in the spring months of April and early May when the rhododendron bushes and trees are in blossom. September, October and early November are also considered good times to trek because it's dry, warm and the skies are clear.

The summer months from late May to July are usually not considered a good time to trek as this is the rainy season so you would likely encounter muddy and rainy conditions, as well as clouds blocking views of the surrounding mountains.

Although winter (January – February) is not considered a recommended time to do the Druk Path Trek, we actually enjoyed it. The snow and winter weather added another dimension to the experience and we had the trails and campsites to ourselves. It can get very cold at night (-10 C/14 F), however, so it's important to pack a warm sleeping bag, lots of warm layers, and waterproof gear.

All this said, weather in the Himalayas is highly variable.

Organizing a Trek in Bhutan

Choosing a Bhutan trekking company

You cannot trek in Bhutan independently, meaning you must go with an authorized tour operator in Bhutan. This means that your trek will be fully supported, including a trekking guide, cook, helpers, and a team of mule porters to carry your trekking and camping gear. The same minimum daily package fee for Bhutan applies on treks as well.

Our Druk Path Trek was with G Adventures and was part of a larger 11-day tour to Bhutan. We recommend this as the tour combines several days on the trek where you are immersed in nature with visits to temples, fortresses and towns to learn more about Bhutan's culture, religion, people and history. Note: The Druk Path Trek tour that we took no longer exists, but both the G Adventures Camp the Trans Bhutan Trail (11 days) and Highlights of the Trans Bhutan Trail (12 days) offer a similar combination of trekking with exploring Bhutan's monasteries, historical sites, villages and towns.

For more details on how to get a visa to Bhutan, minimum daily package fees, flights to Bhutan, and more, check out our Bhutan Travel Guide.

Packing for a Trek in Bhutan and Leaving your Luggage Behind

For the Druk Path Trek and other treks in Bhutan with G Adventures (and other trekking agencies), you are allowed to bring a maximum of 7.5 kilos per person for the mules to carry. This includes your sleeping bag, clothes, toiletries, towel and any other trekking gear you might need at night.

We carried a day pack with us during the day with water, camera, snacks, and necessary layers and winter bits like hat and gloves.

We left our big bags or luggage behind with our tour driver in Paro. We took only what we needed for the trek with us. At the end of the trek, when we emerged from the mountains all our luggage was waiting for us in the tour van. It was available immediately when we arrived at our hotel in Thimphu.

Bhutan Trekking Packing List

Much of what we include in our How to Pack for a Trek article applies here. However, we offer a customized Bhutan Trekking packing list based on our Druk Path Trek. It has a special focus on winter trekking as this was our experience, to ensure you have what you need to stay warm and dry in all conditions, but that you don't overpack.

Remember that you will not have access during the day to the bags with the 7.5 kilos/person of gear so this bag should only include things you need at night. All our waterproof gear and jacket layers we carried with us in our day packs. Better to be prepared as you never know when the temperature and the weather might change as you walk.

Even with these layers, try to pack your day pack as light if you can. You’ll quickly begin to feel the extra weight going up those steep hills.

Drinking Water

You should consume several liters of water each day (if not, then you’re not drinking enough) since you’ll be walking at altitude most of the time. Bring with you a refillable water bottle or a water bladder (or both) so that you always have at least one liter of water on you at all times. I find that I drink more water on the trail when I drink from a water bladder so I carry both.

For hygiene and safety, you'll have access to boiled water at the campsites. This can be used for tea and coffee, but it is also what we used as clean water to refill our water bottles. If you really want to play it safe consider carrying with you a SteriPEN, sterilization drops or a water bottle that includes a filter.

Trekking Daypack

Recommended Women's Trekking Daypack

Deuter ACT Trail Pro Backpack: Very light with all sorts of great functionality like a built-in rain cover, water bladder compatibility, wide waist belt for stability, and more. I have the 32-liter, but you could go with a smaller 28-liter option for this trek as you don't need to carry that much during the day. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI (28-Liter) | Buy on Backcountry.com (34-Liter)

Recommended Men's Trekking Daypack

Osprey Packs Stratos Men's Hiking Backpack: Dan is a big fan of Osprey packs as they are adjustable and fit his back and torso well. The 24 – 34 liter size is great for day hikes or as a day pack on multi-day treks like this. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI | Buy on Backcountry.com

Sleeping Bag

It's very important that you bring a warm sleeping bag so that you are not uncomfortable in your tent at night. We highly recommend getting a sleeping bag that is COMFORT rated to -10 C/15 F (or even warmer). Even if you don't trek in the winter time it still gets rather cold at night and it's better to take off layers or unzip the bag than to not be warm enough.

We purchased this Mammut Nordic OTI winter sleeping bag, which was warm enough, synthetic (vs. down, which requires more care) and came at a great price. However, it's a bit bulky and took up quite a bit of space in our luggage.

Another good sleeping bag option would be one of the down sleeping bags offered by Hyke & Byke (e.g., this sleeping bag goes down to 0 degrees F) as they are very reasonably priced for down and the quality of the bags. Here are some other winter sleeping bags offered at REI.

Trekking Poles / Walking Sticks

We highly recommend carrying trekking poles. We were very thankful for ours, especially on the steep downhills and when the trail was covered in snow and ice. We brought our own set of travel trekking poles (they fold up compact) with us. We share one set between the two of us so that we each carry one pole on the trail.

If you didn't bring walking sticks with you ask your guide if you can rent or borrow them. Our guide made several wooden sticks available for people in our group who didn't have them. They were very thankful to have them.

Clothing to go Trekking in Bhutan

You don't need a lot of clothes, but you do need the right layers. Don’t worry about packing clean clothes for each day, as you can just re-wear the same things each day. Trust me, no one cares and that's what everyone does. Here’s what we suggest:

• 1 pair of trekking pants: We're both been using Clothing Arts Travel Pants (for men and for women) as our go-to trekking pants for over eight years. They've been through a lot of different treks and conditions, yet remain in excellent condition. We find the additional secure pockets useful on treks for keeping phones, money, tissues and other things handy.
• Thermal underwear (top/bottom): I love my silk long johns as they are warm, comfy and take up almost no room at all. Also good is Uniqlo's Heat Tech collection of thin, but warm, layers of leggings and tops. Dan is still keen on his Patagonia zipper top and bottoms that he's been using for over two decades.
• Short or long-sleeved shirts: I often start with a quick dry t-shirt at the bottom and then add the layers on top. This tends to wick away any sweat quickly so that I don't get cold. On this trek, however, I mainly used a long-sleeve shirt as my bottom layer (e.g., this Uniqlo option or this REI long-sleeved option) as I was aiming for warmth.
• 3-4 pairs of socks: I love SmartWool hiking socks. My first pairs lasted me almost seven years of heavy usage. If you prefer a thinner sock check out their ultra-light line. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry
• Hiking shoes: We wore low-rise Oboz hiking shoes and were fine. Other people wore light trainers. However, some mid-ankle support is useful because of the pitch of the terrain, and some traction is the soles is useful when you encounter rain, mud, snow and ice. Men's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry + Women's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry
• 1 set of sleeping clothes: I prefer sleeping in different clothes than the ones I've hiked in all day. So even if it's cold in the tent I'll change into my sleeping clothes as it feels cleaner to me. Given the winter conditions this included a long-sleeve Uniqlo HeatTech shirt, fleece jacket, warm leggings (or fleece-lined running tights), socks, hat, and scarf. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside the bag the mules are carrying.
• Underwear for every day of your trek: With an extra pair thrown in for good measure, if you like. Recommended men's underwear and women's underwear.
• Long sleeved pullover or zipped layer: This thin layer provides an important layer of warmth during the day. Buy on REI (Men's)| Buy on REI (Women's)
• Light fleece jacket: For an extra layer during the day or to keep warm during sleeping, but not too bulky. Buy on REI (Women's) | Buy on REI (Men's)
• Rain jacket: A useful layer for warmth and against the snow, rain or wind. You can use a light windbreaker-in-a-bag that is water resistant or a more substantial waterproof rain jacket like this (women's and men's).
• Down jacket: This is an invaluable layer, especially if you are trekking in the winter, as the jacket compresses into a small bag so it's light and easy to carry. But, it provides an important layer of warmth, especially when you get to the campsite and the temperature drops as the sun goes down. Dan has really enjoyed his down jacket from Uniqlo. I use a similar down jacket to this.
• Flip-flops or river shoes (e.g., Tevas): To use at night in the campsites to give your feet a break from hiking shoes. Women's Tevas & Men's Tevas.
• Shoe gaiters: We picked up a knock-off North Face pair of gaiters in Paro before our trek to protect our shoes from getting wet from the snow on the trails. We were very thankful to have them, especially on day 3. Gaiters are especially important if you're doing a winter trek and expect snow. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon
• Crampons or Traction Cleats: If you're doing the winter trek and have fears of slipping on the ice, carrying a pair of lightweight traction cleats can provide peace of mind. We left our set of Yaktrax traction cleats at home (we were not expecting much ice) and were fine without them. We used our walking sticks to maintain balance on ice. However, were we to pack again for a winter Druk Path experience, we would bring them with us just to be on the safe side. Buy on Amazon | Buy at REI

Other Trekking Gear

• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand. Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry | Buy at REI
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off your hands or face after washing them in the morning. Hang it on the outside of your backpack in the morning so it dries quickly in the sun and air as you move. Buy at REI |Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry
• Sleep sack or sleeping bag liner: To provide an extra layer of warmth in the sleeping bag. Highly recommended. We prefer the silk liner option as it is light to carry, but a warm layer. Buy on REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry
• Headlamp: The campsites do not have electricity so a headlamp is useful to make your way to the camping toilet and to sort through your stuff at night in the tent.
• Silicone earplugs: A precaution in the case your camp has a snorer.
• Hand or toe warmers: If your hands and feet get cold easily consider bringing a pack of adhesive hand and/or toe warmers. One of the women in our group had bad circulation. She used these adhesive warmers daily in her shoes and gloves. They were a lifesaver and really helped keep her warm and comfortable. Buy on Amazon | Buy at REI

Toiletries and Health Kit

On the Druk Path Trek, you won't have access to a shower. But hot water bowls in the morning go a long way.

• Soap, toothbrush and toothpaste: The basics.
• Sunscreen and lip balm with sunscreen: The higher the SPF, the better. You'll be at high altitude.
• Sunglasses: The sun is strong at altitude.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side.
• Pack of tissues or toilet paper: The campsites all have toilet paper, but it’s always a good idea to carry a pack of tissues just in case.
• Duct tape: Very effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet. Also consider picking up some Compeed, which is magic when you've already developed blisters.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration powders, ciprofloxacin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea), tea tree oil (great to apply to cuts and mosquito bites) Note: all these are easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Paro from where you depart for the trek.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

None of the campsites have electricity so prepare yourself for not having access to electricity during the trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode to not waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. It provides another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spent time reviewing your images, as this will quickly consume your battery power quickly. Unless you are reviewing images to determine whether you’ve captured a specific shot, there will be time enough for photo review when your trek is finished.
• Pack a solar-paneled power bank. We would leave ours outside in the early morning light or during breaks along the trail to charge it in the sun. Not sure how much it really recharged, but ours did give us some much appreciated juice to recharge our phones after a couple of days.

Have other questions about trekking in Bhutan or the Druk Path Trek? Just ask in the comments below and we’ll incorporate the information into the article so others may benefit.

Disclosure: Our Druk Path Trek and tour in Bhutan was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers program. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

The post Bhutan Trekking: The Druk Path Trek and New Trans Bhutan Trail appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Our Camino Essentials Packing List is all based on our own experience of walking almost 1,000 km / 600 miles along the Camino de Santiago. We share specific recommendations on Camino essentials like backpacks, clothing, shoes, foot care, and more. The goal: carry what you need to be comfortable and protect against changing weather, but don't feel like you need to take everything with you on the Camino de Santiago.

Preparing for the Camino de Santiago

The Camino de Santiago in Spain. A beautiful walk of 600 miles/960 km across northern Spain, a memorable journey — one that comes up in conversation over and over again, even years later. Lessons learned, a stack of stories from our six weeks of walking along the Camino del Norte and Camino Primitivo, a metaphor for life.

The greatest bit of preparation you can do to influence your comfort on that journey — so that you can focus on what's around you rather than the weight of your backpack — is to know what essentials to pack for the Camino, and why.

Based on our experience walking the Camino de Santiago — an exceptional one that combined the Caminos del Norte, Primitivo and Frances and Finisterre — we were 95% happy with the packing and gear choices we'd made and learned the other 5% in lessons. In this Camino de Santiago essentials packing guide for men, women and couples, you get the 100% so you can benefit from all our experience.

Just to get this question out of the way: If you are wondering whether to walk the Camino de Santiago, no matter what distance, the short answer: yes, you should.

We’ll cover other planning factors for the Camino de Santiago — choosing a route, when to walk, accommodation options, how to eat amazingly well and cheap, and more — in a series of other articles. Before that, however, one of the essential lessons of the Camino lands when you realize how little gear you need to pack and carry.

Update: This article was originally published on 28 June, 2017 and updated on 20 June 2020 with a downloadable Ultimate Camino Packing List for Women and Men and other gear updates.

This article is long and covers a lot of different topics and types of Camino essentials and gear. Use the Table of Contents above to find the information and section that best suit what you're looking for and your Camino packing needs. If the Camino gear that we originally bought and used is no longer available, we will find and recommend the closest current option.

What You Need for the Camino: Packing Perspective and Philosophy

Having done it ourselves, we realize that researching the Camino de Santiago can be delightful and overwhelming at all at the same time, especially when it comes to how to pack for it. This results in Camino-onset packing and planning paralysis.

There are endless forums and websites dedicated to the topic of planning and packing for the Camino, including an underlying machismo competition for the “right” way to do it.

So, we'll stay away from absolutes here. Below is a snapshot of our packing approach based on our personal experience walking the Camino de Santiago for a total of 960km, about 100km more than we had originally expected.

The beauty of our Camino packing approach, however, was it really didn’t matter how many kilometers or days we walked. We were prepared for just about anything — any weather, distance or length of walking.

Our Camino Packing Philosophy

Pack whatever gear you need to pack. Try to err on the side of “less is more,” but don’t let anyone make you feel bad about your choices.

Sure, you'll make some mistakes — maybe you miss something essential or you overpack. It's not the end of the world, nor your Camino. You'll figure out the right balance in the end.

Desired Weight of Your Camino Backpack

There's endless discussion and competition on what's the “right” weight of a backpack for the Camino. Again, do what makes sense for you and fits your body's needs. For us, we found that carrying around 7-8 kilos/15-18 pounds was a good weight for each of us.

Having a quality backpack that is properly fitted to your body (see below for recommendations) will help tremendously in distributing this weight so you don't have aching shoulders, back or hips.

Keep in mind: pilgrims have been walking the Camino for over 1,200 years without the fancy gear or technology we have today. Think of it this way: anything above the bare essentials of shoes, clothes, walking stick, water, and food is kind of a bonus.

Choosing a Camino de Santiago Route

Many people think that there is ONE Camino de Santiago — one route — and don't realize that there are actually twelve official Caminos. One reason for this misunderstanding is that most people (around 85%) who walk the Camino choose the Camino Francés, but there are many other routes that we'd suggest you look into.

If you're curious about all the different ways to reach Santiago de Compostela, here's a map with all the official Camino routes. (Note: there are endless discussions on the advantages and disadvantages of each route, but we will leave that discussion to the next Camino article.)

For our Camino de Santiago journey, we combined three different Caminos: Camino del Norte from Irun to Oviedo, then the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela and finally the Camino Finisterre to the coast, with an additional walk to Muxia.

We met up with family along the way so about half of the journey was just the two of us, while the other half we were a group of five together with Dan's sister, niece and nephew.

In total, our Camino came in at 960km/600 miles and took around six weeks, including a handful of planned (and unplanned) rest and “exploring Basque food” days (definitely recommend extra days in San Sebastian and Bilbao just to eat Basque food!!). If you're looking for an experience that is filled with stunning coastal and mountain landscapes that will also challenge you physically, then consider this combination of Camino de Santiago routes.

Camino Essentials and Packing Basics

Our journey began mid-April and ended late May so we had to be prepared for unpredictable and potentially rainy weather, especially along the northern coast. The packing approach below should work for whichever Camino route you choose and can be adjusted up or down in terms of layers depending upon the season.

Three Principles for Clothing: Layers, Thin, and Light

As with any walk, hike or trek, layers are key to keeping dry and moderating temperature. Especially if you plan to walk the Camino de Santiago in spring or autumn, you'll want to be prepared for temperature swings and precipitation. If you are walking the Camino in the summer, adjust your packing accordingly as it might be rather warm.

Always look to collapse and roll what you pack, whenever possible. Our clothing might even sound like a lot, but everything we brought usually doubled as something else, could be layered in the cold, and could be compressed. And not everything needs to cost a fortune. (Consider the type of workers gloves Dan carried.)

Especially if you pack cold weather items like a hat, gloves and fleece pullover, think thin and light. Same even goes for warm weather gear. The goal: minimize volume, maximize space. Minimize weight, maximize joy.

Don’t carry camping gear with you on the Camino de Santiago

All different Camino de Santiago routes are set up so that you have affordable accommodation options within reasonable distances so that you don’t need to camp. We did come across a few pilgrims walking the Camino who carried camping gear for emergencies, but we would advise against it.

In fact, one guy we spoke to had only used it once in the four weeks prior to when we met him. If you do insist on bringing camping gear to give yourself additional sleeping options or to save money on accommodation, we suggest you carry a hammock tent. We met one Danish guy who said this was light and worked well for him the few times he used it.

Know you have luggage transport options

If you prefer not to carry everything on your back during the day, there are luggage transport services available along each Camino de Santiago that will pick up your bag in the morning from the albergue and transport it to the next town where you plan to stay. Often, the accommodation where you are staying can provide you with contact information for this or you'll find advertisements posted at albergues along the way.

The cost varies depending upon which Camino route you are walking and how remote you might be, but it usually varies between €3-€10/bag per day.

Remember: you can always buy things in Spain

If you have doubts about whether you really need it, leave it behind with the knowledge that you can most likely buy it in Spain if you do decide you can’t live without it.

There are enough bigger towns and cities that you walk through that would have whatever you need. This goes for clothing, shoes, socks, medical gear, toiletries, and other accessories. Also, if something isn’t working for you or is falling apart then replace it.

We even met someone who bought a whole new backpack along the Camino because the one he borrowed from his girlfriend started falling apart.

Clothing strategy for the Camino: walking and resting clothes

Think of your clothing essentials strategy in two components: a walking “uniform” and resting or sleeping “uniform.”

You only need one or two items in each category. This will make you realize how little you really need to bring in the clothing department. More on how this works in practice below.

Focus on the feet. Ankles and knees, too.

Your Camino packing strategy should absolutely take into consideration the threat of blisters, sore feet, and weak ankles. These are real threats to your enjoyment.

From the very first moment you feel a hot spot, pain or discomfort in your feet during the walk, stop and address the issue. This is not the time to soldier on. Instead, it's time to adjust and address the underlying problem in your feet — be it rubbing, cramping, moisture or all of the above.

Adjust your socks, change them if necessary and use Compeed, duct tape and other methods. If you don't, there's a good chance your feet will take revenge on you and erupt in blisters. Particularly on days where you'll walk a lot of asphalt roads, you should be especially careful. Our packing strategy below addresses this.

If you are certain to have unstable ankles or knees, bring a brace to offer extra support. You can also buy ankle braces and knee braces in pharmacies along the Camino. The moment you begin to feel something, put on the ankle brace and wear it regularly. There is no shame, only foresight. After Dan twisted his ankle a couple of weeks into our Camino, an ankle brace was essential to recovery and comfort.

Doing laundry along the Camino de Santiago

No one is expecting you to smell like daisies or have perfectly pressed clothes along the Camino de Santiago. We did proper laundry (i.e., with a washing machine and dryer) about once every 5-7 days, and then hand-washed in the sink the rest of the time.

A lot of accommodation, especially the municipal and private albergues, do have washing machines and areas where you can wash clothes in a sink and hang them to dry on a line (or over the side of your bed frame). If something doesn’t dry overnight, then tie it to the outside of your backpack to let the early morning sun and breeze do its magic.

Choosing a Backpack for the Camino

If you don’t already have a hiking backpack that you love, take the time to research and test out backpacks before you walk the Camino de Santiago. The fit of the backpack can really make or break you on the trail. Think: blisters on hips, shoulder pain, back pain, etc.

Go to REI (or a similar outdoor store) and try on as many backpacks as you can that are of the size you want (more on that below). Ask the store staff to properly fit the backpack to your back, straps and all. This is especially important if you are tall as not all backpacks are geared towards long backs like yours.

There is no “right” size of backpack to take on the Camino as there are so many factors to consider irrespective of size, including how the pack fits your back. However, as a general rule we’d advise getting something in the 28-40 liter range. Remember: you don’t have to fill all the space even if you do buy a bigger backpack.

What to look for in a Camino backpack:

• Easy-to-get-to-from-the-outside top compartment (otherwise known as the “brain”) so that it’s easy to get access to sunscreen, Leatherman, utensils, tissues, snacks, etc.
• Side/bottom compartments to for easy access to ponchos or other rain gear.
• Convenient walking stick holder.
• Comfortable, wide waist strap.
• Backpack cover included. This not only ensures it’s the right size, but it’s usually connected at the bottom in an easy-to-store place.
• Outside zipper that allows you to easily get to something at the bottom of the pack.
• Place to hold a water bladder or water bottle.

We spent time going to several stores, asking for advice, and trying on multiple backpacks. We highly recommend you do the same. After all of this testing we were really happy with the backpack choices we made.

Recommended Women's Camino Backpack

Deuter ACT Trail Pro 32 SL Backpack: I could not be happier with this backpack. The shoulder and waist strap were specifically designed for women, which worked really well for my build.

The actual bag itself is quite light with all sorts of functionality like a built-in rain cover, water bladder compatibility, wide waist belt for stability, several external compartments for storing rain and other gear, outer zippers that made it easy to get into the brain and main section, walking pole holder, and more.

I was tempted to get the smaller 28-liter backpack as a way to force me to pack super light. However, a person at an outdoor store convinced me to go for the bigger size (32 liters) because the smaller backpack didn’t have the wide waist strap and if I wanted to use the backpack for another trek when I’d need additional warm-weather gear I’d appreciate the extra space. In the end, his advice was spot on as I really appreciated the support of the wide waist strap and I enjoyed having a little extra space to fit in foodstuffs and snacks.

Unfortunately, Deuter doesn't seem to make the 32-liter version of this style of backpack anymore, but they still have other sizes. Buy on REI (22-Liter) | Buy on Amazon (28-Liter) | Buy on Backcountry (34-Liter)

Recommended Men's Camino Backpack

Osprey Packs Exos 38L Backpack: At first Dan wanted a backpack in the 30-32L range, but the smallest size available in the Large frame size made for tall people was 38 liters.

After trying on dozens of packs, Dan realized how much better it feels to carry a backpack that is properly sized to your back. Moral of the story: go for the backpack that fits your back and shoulders best irrespective of the size. Remember, you don’t need to fill it up all the way.

This backpack is light, comfortable, and durable. However, there were a couple of things that could use improvement like the trekking pole storage, outside zipper to the brain was not the most convenient, it could have used more outside compartments, and it could have included a cover. But, in terms of comfort and size this is a great backpack. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI (48-liter) | Buy on Backcountry.com (38-liter)

Camino Packing Accessories

We found the regular-sized packing cubes that we usually use on our trips a bit bulky for the dimensions of our backpack. Instead, we used a combination of:

• Hoboroll Compression Stuff Sack: Dan found the divided sections for the basics – socks, underwear, shirts, etc. — really useful for organizing and finding clothes. Then, you can compress it all to take up less space in your pack and put a plastic bag around it to keep it dry.
• Ziploc Bags (gallon-sized): Simple, low tech and cheap. I used a ziploc bag for my extra day clothes and a separate one for my night clothes. Not only did they keep things protected and dry in case of rain, but I was pleasantly surprised by how much air compressed out when “zipping” them. Also useful for carrying toiletries in case something leaks. Bring extra in case holes emerge.
• Half packing cube: I did use a half packing cube (wrapped in a plastic bag) to organize cold weather and other items that I knew I wouldn't be using daily.
• Mesh laundry bag: Good airy separator and weighs almost nothing.

Camino Clothing Essentials for Women and Men

Remember, you don’t need to get the latest and greatest gear. People have been walking the Camino for hundreds of years before Gore-tex or the newest technologies were invented. Go for what’s comfortable and light.

Note: Our Camino went from mid-April to the end of May so it was still cool in the mornings and evenings, and often had a chance of showers. We often would start the day with several layers on top and then peel them off as the day progressed. If you are walking in the prime time of summer, you probably will need fewer layers and will be more focused on trying to stay cool.

Women's Camino de Santiago Clothing Essentials and Packing List

As mentioned in our Camino essentials and basic principles above, we divided our clothing into daytime (“walking uniform”) and nighttime (“resting uniform”) so that they would stay separate from each other and clean.

Clothes for Walking During the Day (aka, “Walking Uniform”)

The idea of a “walking uniform” is that you don't have to think in the morning about what to wear: it's always the same. Here is my packing list of Camino essential clothing for walking during the day.

Clothes for Evening and Sleeping (aka, “Resting Uniform”)

The idea with the resting uniform is that these clothes are soft, comfortable and easy to relax in after a long day of walking. They are also relatively clean-smelling and clean in comparison to the walking uniform clothes you've been in all day so they are nice to get into after a hot shower.

Camino Outerwear: Jackets and Waterproof Gear

Your outwear strategy for the Camino might change based on the time of year you walk the Camino and expected cold weather, rain or wind. However, we always appreciate having outwear options with to protect against rain and cold than not.

Even if you think you won't need waterproof gear based on the time of year, considering carrying it anyway as you never know what the weather gods will deliver.

What I brought with me that I didn’t use:

I had received these recommendations on other Camino packing lists and brought them with me, but I didn't end up using them once.

• Sarong: I had read somewhere that this could double as a skirt, blanket, picnic cover, etc. But, I never needed it for any of those purposes.
• Simple knit skirt to go over the leggings. Call me uncouth, but I just found it more comfortable and easier to walk around in just the leggings.

What I wish I had brought with me on the Camino de Santiago:

Another pair of light trousers to wear in the evenings as I would have been more comfortable (and warmer) walking around villages and towns at night. There were times when my leggings didn't stand up well to the cold.

Men's Camino de Santiago Clothing Packing List

Clothes for Walking During the Day (aka, “Walking Uniform”)

• 1 pair trekking pants: Dan wore these trekking pants 95% of the time on the Camino. Pockets also very useful for smartphone, wallet, maps, etc.
• 2 short-sleeved quick dry shirts
• 1 long-sleeved quick dry shirt: This functioned as a warm outer layer, in place of a fleece.
• 1 pair of shorts: Alternatively, take a pair of ultra lightweight zip-off trekking pants. These will double as a backup pair of pants and your shorts when needed.
• 2 pairs hiking socks: His favorites were compression socks he bought at an outdoor store in Bilbao.
• Sock liners : Prevents rubbing and provides additional cushion. Super thin low-cut running socks do the trick.
• 3 pairs quick-dry underwear: These boxer-briefs from REI are perfect.

Clothes for Evening and Sleeping (aka, Resting “Uniform”)

• 1 long-sleeved button down travel shirt
• Light travel pants: To walk around town at night.
• Pajama/Karate pants: For sleeping.
• Base layer bottoms: Just in case it gets cold. This Patagonia Capilene bottom layer has lasted him over ten years.
• T-shirt: Cotton or 50/50 blend, comfortable for sleeping.
• 1 pair of socks

Outerwear:

• Fleece pullover: For when it cools down at night.
• Water resistant rain jacket in a bag: For when the rain isn't quite strong enough to pull out the big poncho.
• Waterproof poncho: Be sure to get a poncho that covers your backpack and most of legs, too.
• Waterproof pants: Simple, thin waterproof cycling pants will do.
• Gloves: Thin, lightweight gardening/hardware gloves were fine.
• Ski hat: In case it gets cold.
• Collapsible/rollable sun hat and sunglasses: Protects your face and eyes from that strong sun.

What I brought with me that I didn’t use:

A North Face thin winter shell jacket that was only used a handful of times. I could have easily done without it and enjoyed the extra space or weight.

Camino de Santiago Shoes

Every foot is different, meaning that there is no one “right” type of hiking shoe for walking the Camino. We met people who raved about their shoe choices on the opposite side of the spectrum, from heavy ankle-support hiking boots to sandals. Even if you are using hiking shoes that are well worn in, be prepared that you may experience blisters like never before in your life…as happened to Dan.

We each carried a pair of hiking shoes that we used during the day and then river sandals that we used at night to give our feet a break.

Recommended Women's Shoes for the Camino

Hiking Shoes: Usually I usually hike with low hiking shoes, but for the Camino I ended up taking this pair of light hiking boots with moderate ankle support. I was really happy with these shoes and my feet seemed to suffer the least in our group. Note: I currently use these Oboz light hiking shoes and really like them as well.

Teva river sandals: To walk around town at night when you want to give your feet a break from hiking boots. Also handy for communal bathrooms and showers at albergues.

Recommended Men's Shoes for the Camino

Vasque Low Hiking Shoes: Dan has owned several pairs of these hiking shoes and have walked hundreds of miles in them without any problem. However, on the Camino his feet and ankles exploded in blisters about a week into the walk, something that has never happened before. This is not entirely the fault of the shoes, of course, but he might choose better ankle support next time. Note: Dan switched over to Oboz low hiking shoes since then and finds them light, but with lots of support.

Teva river sandals: In addition to using these Tevas to walk around town at night and albergue bathrooms, these sandals came in handy when his feet were covered in blisters and needed a break from enclosed shoes on the trail.

Waterproofing Your Hiking Shoes

We did several rounds of waterproofing on our hiking shoes at home before starting the Camino using NikWax footwear waterproofing. Fortunately, we didn't need to test this much along the way. You can do this to help make your backpack more water repellent.

Sleeping Gear for the Camino

We stayed in a combination of municipal and private Albergues (shared dormitories), plus we also used pensions, hotels and agritourismos (more on your accommodation options along the Camino in another article). If you plan to stay in an albergue or hostel with dorm rooms, be sure you have the following with you.

Silicone Earplugs

The snoring you'll hear on the Camino will blow your mind. You'll wonder how the person is alive the coming morning, only to find out they had a terrific night's sleep, are out the door before 6AM and everyone else in the place is miserably sleep-deprived.

Can we strenuously suggest silicone earplugs? Recently, we switched to these silicone earplugs for the Camino de Santiago and have never looked back.

Whether you are sleeping in a crowded albergue or in a hotel on a loud city street, these earplugs create some peace in the midst of a dormitory snorefest or urban noise storm. A good night's sleep is so worth the tiny expense and effort of carrying earplugs.

Eye Mask

A lightweight eye mask can also be essential, not so much for the morning light (that will help get you going), but the for the errant headlamp accidentally zeroed in on your forehead by your bunkmate.

Sleep Sack

Most albergues will give you either a regular sheet or a sort of thin, gauze “sheet” to put over the mattress and pillow as a sort of sanitation layer. If it’s cold, many places will also provide blankets.

The simple, lightweight sleep sack serves as your sheet and keeps a clean layer between you and the mattress and you and the blanket (as it’s unclear when many were last cleaned). Definitely worth its weight.

Quick-Dry Towel

For use in albergue bathrooms as towels are typically not provided. It's typical to shower at night, so your towel will air-dry overnight. If it remains damp in the morning, tie it to the outside of your backpack to dry in the sunshine or breeze. Go for either a medium or large quick-dry towel.

Sleeping bag: to take or not to take?

We didn’t carry a sleeping bag, and didn’t regret this decision as we felt sufficiently warm at night with our sleep sacks combined with blankets and/or other layers. We did see others with sleeping bags who were also happy with their decision.

If you are going to walk the Camino in the early spring or late fall then you may want to bring a lightweight sleeping bag with you for warmth.

Sleeping mat: to take or not to take?

We did not take a sleeping mat and never needed one. We’ve been told, however, that it can be a useful thing to bring with you if you are walking the Camino Francés during high season and there’s a chance you may need to sleep on the floor at busy albergues.

Camino Essential Toiletries

As we were two people walking together we were able to divide up the following toiletries into two backpacks, but the list unfortunately stays the same if you are only one person.

Staying Healthy Along the Camino de Santiago

Even if you have taken long treks before, like we had, you may find your body — especially your feet — doing things that they've never done before. This is perfectly normal. Feet explode in blisters, ankles twist, bones ache.

If you find yourself in one of these situations, get thee to a pharmacy immediately. This is not the time to “push through the pain” or be cheap with creams and treatments.

Pharmacies and pharmacists in Spain are wonderful. I don’t know if that’s everywhere in the country, but we found it to be true along the Camino. The pharmacists are almost like doctors in their knowledge and approach to recommending treatments and products.

They are so used to seeing every kind of foot and ankle ailment that they seem to know exactly what you need the moment you enter. Many speak some English, so don’t despair if you don’t speak much Spanish.

READ MORE: Travel Health Tips from 10+ Years Traveling the World

Suggested Camino Medical Kit and Foot Care

Health Tip: A glass of Lemon Water in the Morning and Night. Get in the habit of drinking each morning when you first wake up and in the evening after dinner a big glass (or bottle) of water with a half a lemon squeezed into it. This simple concoction helps hydrate, aids digestion, and just feels cleansing for the body. It's easy to pick up lemons along the way at grocery stores or markets. You can thank us later.

Other Camino de Santiago Essential Gear

Other items that we recommend carrying with you to make life along the Camino and in albergues a little more enjoyable. You'll notice that a lot of this is connected to food — to make picnics or have impromptu meals along the way –as eating well is important to us.

• Walking Stick (travel friendly): We found one walking stick or pole each to be enough (vs. two sticks each). Good for going up or down steep hills. Also essential in taking weight off blistered feed or turned ankles while walking. When we didn't need the poles we packed them up and hung them on the backpacks.
• Backpack rain cover: If your backpack doesn't have a rain cover already attached to it (like my Deuter backpack), be sure to buy one that fits the size of your bag.
• Refillable Water Bottle: Always try to have a liter or more of water with you along the Camino since sometimes there can be long stretches between clean water sources. Alternatively, you can carry a water bladder that tucks into the back of your backpack. Or both, like I did.
• Headlamp: Necessary for navigating albergue dorm rooms and bathrooms at night when lights are turned out. One set of high quality batteries can probably last the entire Camino.
• Leatherman: Or, another similar multi-tool that has a knife and bottle opener. We used ours all the time for cutting cheese, sausage, vegetables, fruit or cakes for picnics.
• Camping Silverware: We carried two sets of camping silverware, but a spork would also probably work just as well.
• Travel corkscrew: Yes, you can see where our priorities lie.
• Clothesline: Light and easy to carry, but we found ourselves only using this once as most albergues had drying racks or clotheslines. Or, we would hang clothing over the side of our bed frame to dry overnight.
• Carabiners: We each carried a couple of these Carabiners with a screw lock and found them useful for securing items to the outside of the backpack (e.g., water bottle, bag, etc.).
• Ziploc and plastic bags: Used to cover clothes and other items inside the backpack in case of leakage or rain.
• Small notebook and pen: Sometimes it's nice to physically write down your thoughts, feelings or experiences. A small moleskin type notebook and pen fit well in the top section of the backpack, making it easy to find when the inspiration struck.

Snacks and Food

If you've been reading our blog you'll know that food is important part of our travels. And the Camino was no exception; we ate extremely well (more on that in a separate Camino food article).

We made deliberate decisions as to when to take a long lunch in a restaurant, usually with a budget-priced 3-course menu del dia (daily menu), and when to carry food with us for a quick lunch picnic.

Walking 15-30km each day means you will need to keep yourself well-fueled, especially in the protein department. We tried to keep on us at all times some sort of nuts (almonds were our favorite), granola bars, or fruit.

Additionally, we would often stop in at local shops to pick up cheese, salami, smoked meats or other local specialties to serve either as snacks or picnic food along the way.

The joy of olive oil along the Camino: It may sound crazy to carry a small plastic bottle of olive oil with you on the Camino, but we can attest that the additional flavor and eating enjoyment from it is worth the weight. Olive oil makes boring picnic jamon and cheese sandwiches come to life, not to mention the simple joy of fresh greens (aka, salad in a bag) drenched in quality olive oil after several meat and carb-heavy meals. So worth the additional weight.

Electronic Gear and Wifi on the Camino

DSLR Camera: To Take or Not to Take on the Camino?

We chose not to take our standard DSLR camera and lenses kit with us on the Camino due to weight and bulk. Instead, we used the cameras on our iPhones for all our photography. There were a few times that we missed not having the big camera, but this was outweighed greatly by the freedom to not have to carry all that heavy gear.

However, we saw many people along the Camino with DSLR and other cameras who were happy with their decision. So, it really depends on how important it is to you to have higher-than-smartphone-quality photos from your journey.

Recommended Electronic Gear

• Smartphone battery case: This is good for iPhone protection against unintended drops (that always seem to happen no matter how careful we try to be) and essential in extending or even doubling battery life, which may become an issue in full dorms with limited electrical outlets.
• Multi-plug and adapter: Competition can sometimes be fierce for plugs at albergues. If you have several devises consider bringing a small European multi-plug and adaptor with you, or perhaps one with a USB charger.

Wifi and Mobile Data Along the Camino

One of the joys of the Camino is to disconnect. However, if you want to — or need to — stay connected, never fear. Many of the albergues and accommodation, as well as cafes and restaurants, offer free wifi.

Additionally, if you have an unlocked smartphone you can pick up a SIM card (bring your passport to register it) and buy an inexpensive data package. We used Orange, but there's also Vodafone and other companies with similar options. Coverage was pretty good throughout most of our journey.

Camino Guide Apps, Maps, and Other Useful Resources

Camino Apps

There are quite a few apps available for each of the Camino routes. We used Wise Pilgrim apps for the Camino del Norte, Primitivo and Finisterre (you can download these for iPhone or Android here). What we liked about the app was the live GPS mapping functionality where you could where you were in that moment in relation to the official Camino route (mobile data required for this).

Although the Camino is well marked, there were quite a few times when this functionality came in useful to find the route when we got turned around. Also useful in this app were the services and accommodation listings per village or town. This information wasn't always correct, but for the most part it was pretty good for planning where there would be eating or sleeping options along the way.

If you prefer a paper guidebook to an app, Wise Pilgrim has publishing a series of Camino guidebooks. We’ve also heard good things about the Eroski Camino app, but a bit of Spanish language knowledge is needed for that.

We also used the Booking.com app and its “what's near me now” function frequently, especially mid to late afternoon, to see what accommodation was available in nearby villages or towns. The instant booking option provided us a sense of security as it guaranteed us a bed no matter what time we would arrive that night.

Mapping apps

If you have mobile data you can always use Google maps for the basics. However, we found that Pocket Earth maps not only allowed us to use maps offline, but they had more trails marked.

Additionally, the maps would show where you could find basic services in villages and towns — e.g., pharmacy, bank, grocery store, restaurant, cafe, etc. Although not always 100% accurate, we found this very useful when planning out a day to see where we should stop during the day for food, coffee, ATM machine, or pharmacy.

Other Camino Planning Resources

It's easy to feel overwhelmed by all the Camino websites and forums. We used Gronze (in Spanish, but you can use a translation app or extension) for research and then downloaded information in PDFs so we could refer to it on our phone along the way. For example, it breaks the Camino del Norte into recommended stages (etapas) with accommodation options in different locations, route description, and maps.

We also used a printout of the free Camino Primitivo and Finesterre guide by Liz Brandt. Especially good for cafe, cake and food recommendations.

Ultimate Camino Packing Checklist: PDF Download

To help you pack and prepare for your next Camino, no matter which route you take or how long it is, we've created a simple one-page downloadable Camino de Santiago packing checklist for women and men. This checklist has both standard items that are applicable to anyone, as well as specific backpack, clothing and gear recommendations for women and men. Great for if you are walking a Camino as a couple or on your own.

How to use this Ultimate Camino Packing Checklist

• Look at the checklist online to take stock of what you already own. If you are missing something, click on the linked item to see our specific recommendation (Disclosure: most of these are affiliate links to purchase these items on REI or Amazon).
• Print out a copy and do a test packing. Review the checklist to see if you have everything you need already. If not, do some strategic shopping to be sure you have everything you need.
• When you are ready to actually pack for the Camino, put your backpack and all your gear on the floor next to each other. Go through the checklist one by one to be sure everything is there before you begin packing.
• Then, pack your backpack. It may take several tries to get the right configuration. Don't try to overstuff. And remember, heavier things are best at the bottom of the backpack.

The post How To Pack for the Camino de Santiago: Camino Essentials and Packing Lists appeared first on Uncornered Market.

I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in. — John Muir

When we first set out on our journey years ago, hiking and trekking — especially of the long, multi-day trek variety — were not a priority on our activity list. Sure, we enjoyed day hikes and walks, but longer multi-day treks weren't something we actively sought out.

Over the years, however, we’ve found ourselves increasingly drawn to long hikes in the mountains that allow us to disconnect from the busy world while connecting more with nature and ultimately ourselves. These days, we make an effort each year to take at least one long multi-day trek or several day hikes grouped together in one trip as a way to recharge and refresh.

We don’t always wish to disconnect entirely from humanity when we go trekking. Instead, we are often attracted to hikes that feature a cultural component, one where we encounter and engage with local people, often through family homestays. This type of hiking not only challenge us physically by pushing us to do more than the usual, but they often stir us emotionally by forcing us to widen the cultural lens through which we view the region and our world.

Finally, this approach provides us the opportunity to contribute to the local economy and community by staying with local families.

Having finished quite a few day hikes and multi-day treks over the last decade of our travels around the world, we've been fielding questions about which hikes we’d recommend. We tend to choose hikes that are lesser known, sometimes in unusual destinations. Not only are these unusual hikes less crowded, so we have the trails and nature to ourselves, but they often offer some surprises along the way…in a good way.

Without further delay, here is our Offbeat Hiking Guide with 16 of our favorite lesser known hikes from around the world. For advice on hiking gear and how to pack for a hike, check out our hiking essentials checklist.

Note: This post was originally published in July 2015 and last updated in March 2022 with a few new treks.

READ MORE: How to Pack For A Trek: The Ultimate Hiking Packing List

Peaks of the Balkans: Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro

Days: 12
Distance: 200 km / 124 miles

Why: To experience challenging climbs and stunning views from peaks in a relatively unknown part of Europe, while staying with local families in their farmhouses and shepherd huts along the way.

This trek through the Accursed Mountains (sometimes referred to as the Albanian Alps) reminds us that sometimes the areas with the most beautiful landscapes are also the ones most difficult ones to live in. The Peaks of the Balkans, a relatively new concept trail, allows you to venture into areas and across borders that had previously been no-go zones for decades. The abandoned bunkers and border guard towers you’ll find along your way stand testament to this.

Update: We have published the Peaks of the Balkans Beginner's Guide (PDF) with all you need to know regarding itineraries, recommended routes, packing, accommodation, and other practical details for this trek.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We booked our Peaks of the Balkans trek and guide with Zbulo! Discover Albania.

Lost City Trek: Sierra Nevada Mountains, Colombia

Days: 4 (5-6 day treks are also available)
Distance: 46 km / 28 miles

Why: To trek through the jungles of Colombia’s Sierra Nevada Mountains to reach Teyuna, the capital of the ancient Tayrona civilization. When travelers consider trekking in South America, their thoughts most often go to Machu Picchu in Peru and Torres del Paine in Chilean Patagonia. While we can recommend both of these treks, we suggest the Lost City trek as part of your travels in Colombia if you seek an experience of the sort that is a little less developed, a little less known.

We also recommend choosing a Lost City tour that has a Wiwa indigenous guide. He shared stories with us that were passed on to him by the shaman (holy men) about the ancient Tayrona civilization and the city of Teyuna. This combined cultural and historical context added to the entire experience.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We took a Lost City tour with G Adventures. They work with the local Wiwa indigenous community as local guides and for a community lunch and visit.

Heights of Alay Trek: Alay Mountains, Kyrgyzstan

Days: 3 nights/4 days
Distance: 48 km/30 miles

Why: To feel as if you've landed on a different planet. The landscapes on the Heights of Alay trek in southern Kyrgyzstan, especially on day one while crossing Sary Mogul Pass (4,303 meters/14,120 feet), are truly otherworldly. And you have incredible views over Peak Lenin (7,134 meters / 23,406 feet) and the Pamir Mountain range along the way. You also have the local cultural experience of engaging with local shepherds along the way and have the option of eating at shepherd's home for breakfast or dinner.

There is also a longer variation of the Heights of Alay Trek that is 5 nights/6 days (87km) that takes you over Jiptick Pass (4,185 meters) and ends in Sary Mogul village. And, if you have limited time consider the Koshkol Lakes day hike near Sary Mogul. You can check out all the details in our guide to hiking in the Alay Mountains or find out about other hikes in the Pamir Mountains like going up to Lenin Peak Base camp in this travel guide to the Alay Region.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We did this trek with Visit Alay and recommend choosing them for quality guides, gear and experience. In addition, this is part of the Community Based Tourism network in Kyrgyzstan where a portion of the profits goes back into community development. Talant Toksonbaev and his team in Osh can help you with anything you might need to organize a trek in the Alay Mountains of Kyrgyzstan.

Other recommended treks in Kyrgyzstan:

We can also recommend the Boz-Uchuk Lakes Trek in Jyrgalan Valley organized by Destination Jyrgalan outside of Karakol. If you're interested in a horse trek take a look at the 2 night/3 day horseback riding out to Song Kul Lake, but we hear that has become more popular and crowded over the last few years.

Markha Valley Trek: Ladakh, India

Days: 7
Distance: 75 km / 47 miles

Why: To challenge yourself in the high deserts of the Indian Himalayas by crossing 5,000 meter (16,400 foot) mountain passes, all while learning about traditional Ladakhi Buddhist culture through your local guide and host families. Ladakh features some of the most stunning scenery we have ever encountered.

We include the Markha Valley multi-day trek here as most travelers think “Nepal” when they consider hiking in the Himalayas. And rightly so, as the Annapurna Circuit trek we did there remains one of our top experiences of all times. However, Ladakh offers a more remote, less explored hiking alternative. It’s also important to note that several trails and treks outside of the than Markha Valley are available if you are seek something even more far-flung and unusual.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We booked our Markha Valley trek and guide with Ecological Footprint Ladakh in Leh, Ladakh.

Cordillera Huayhuash Trek, Peru

Days: 10
Distance: 113 km / 70 miles

Why: To immerse yourself in one of the most stunning and dramatic mountain ranges in the world, the Cordillera Huayhuash in central Peru. Each day of this trek takes you over 4,800 meter (15,750 feet) to 5,100 meter (16,400 feet) mountain passes with snow-covered peaks up to 6,200 meter (20,340 feet) all around you. You pass by several turquoise alpine lakes each day while condors soar above. It's truly a beautiful part of this world.

Although the altitudes on this trek are high, don't be discouraged as the ascents are not technical — you just need to go slow and steady, one foot in front of the other. You can check out all the details in this Huayhuash Trekking Guide.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We did this 10-day Huayhuash Trek with Quechuandes in Huaraz, Peru. The support on this trek was great and included an experienced trekking guide, cook and all food, donkeys to carry our gear, tents, support staff, and more. And, the price is reasonable given the quality of the service.

Svaneti, Mestia to Ushguli: High Caucasus Mountains, Republic of Georgia

Days: 3
Distance: 45 km / 28 miles

Why: To trek through the High Caucasus Mountains from Mestia to Ushguli, purportedly the highest inhabited village in Europe at 2,100m / 6,900ft, and stay with local Svan families along the way. Our trek in Svaneti was our first multi-day, home stay trek that enlightened us as to how trekking could not only be an immersive experience in nature, but also in local culture. We were hooked.

To say that local Svan people, who view themselves as the protectors of these mountains, are intense is perhaps an understatement. You’ll find the people of Svaneti welcoming — just as fierce in their present-day hospitality as they are in their historical resistance to outsiders. Just beware of your liver, as the endless toasts each night with local wine and firewater can add up.

Xela to Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

Days: 3 days
Distance: 37 km / 23 miles

Why: To hike through mountains and hill villages between two of Guatemala’s most popular tourist destinations — Xela and Lake Atitlan — and to finish with a beautiful sunrise view of the lake from above. We were told that this trail was developed by a veteran of the Guatemalan civil war (ended in 1996) as a means of stealthily moving about the region.

Along the way up and down the volcanic mountains and into the valleys, you stay in simple guest houses (sometimes schools or community buildings) or with families, including one that allows you to try their traditional Mayan sauna. On the final morning, you’ll enjoy breakfast at sunrise from above Lake Atitlan.

This hike might afford you a new appreciation for both the town and the lake after making the effort to trek the highlands between the two. In addition, you'll have a greater appreciation of the nature and cultures of Guatemala.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We booked the Xela to Lago Atitlan Trek with Quetzal Trekkers.

Lake Khecheopalri to Yuksom: Sikkim, India

Distance: 20-25 km / 12 – 15 miles
Days: 3

Why: To get a taste of Nepali and Bhutanese culture while still in India, and to appreciate a view of majestic Mount Khangchendzonga, the third highest mountain in the world (8,586 m /28,169 ft). When we first decided to visit Sikkim, a semi-autonomous region in northwestern India that borders Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet (China), our plan did not include trekking.

Only after seeing the mountains and hearing that the trails were easy to follow, did we set off with a daypack to explore the area around Lake Khecheopalri and Yuksom. We stayed in family guesthouses and enjoyed all the interactions and tea stops in villages along the way.

Note: If you are interested in a more strenuous journey in this region, consider the route to Goecha La (4,940 meters) from which the best views of Mount Khangchendzonga are reportedly had.

Trek to Big Almaty Lake: Tian Shan Mountains, Kazakhstan

Distance: 20 km / 12 miles (one way)
Days: 2

Why: To get a quick look into the Tian Shan Mountains, reach the turquoise waters of Big Almaty Lake and spend the night at a funky, former Soviet astronomical observatory. While the lake is beautiful and the hike up is pleasant enough, the highlight of this trek was the surreal experience of spending the night at the Tian Shan Astronomical Observatory.

During our visit, we felt as though we’d landed on a movie set, a time-frozen remnant, wild west outpost of the Soviet Union. Scientists still live and work up there, however, and they keep the high-powered telescopes going. If you pay $5-10, one of them will open the telescope and show you the stars.

Please do not do what we did on our second day and use a Lonely Planet guidebook map to guide your return to Almaty over the mountain pass and down through one of the river beds. The route to Kosmostancia, another bizarre scientific outpost up the mountain from the observatory, is easy. After that, however, we lost the trail and almost didn’t make it out of the mountains at all (here’s the full story from our Kazakhstan hike).

So, words to the wise: learn from our mistake. Return down the mountain to Almaty the same way you came. Otherwise, carry a usable trekking map, use a map app with trekking route overlays able, or hire a guide so you can enjoy yourself and return without unnecessary drama.

Sawtooth Mountains: Idaho, United States

Distance: 10 – 24 miles
Days: day hikes

Why: To be surprised by the beauty and diversity of landscapes and alpine lakes of the Sawtooth Mountains. Who knew Idaho was this beautiful?! Each day trek we did, including the Pettit and Toxaway Lakes Loop (20+ miles), Sawtooth Lakes Hike and Bench Lakes (be sure to continue to the 4th lake), just blew us away for the vistas and contours.

We also timed our visit for the shoulder season at the end of September and early October so as to avoid the crowds. As a result, we had the trails to ourselves and were able to enjoy the small town Stanley and its hot springs without a lot of other travelers around.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We based ourselves in Stanley, Idaho and took day hikes each day. This allowed us to enjoy the mountains during the day and warm meal and bed at night. We stayed at Mountain Village Lodge and thoroughly enjoyed their complimentary 1-hour hot springs soak that comes with the room. Just be sure to book your hot springs time before you leave in the morning on your day hike so that you are guaranteed a soak time when you return. SO nice after a long hike.

Southern Coast of Gozo and Malta Islands, Malta 

Distance: 6-12 miles / 10 – 20 km
Days: day hikes

Why: To enjoy the dramatic cliffs and brisk coastal winds of Gozo and Malta islands. Although Malta isn’t really known for its hiking, it should be given dramatic coastlines on both islands. And, hitting the trails are a great way to avoid the crowds that sometimes hit the islands.  

Our favorite hike was the 9-10 km trail along Gozo’s southern coast, from the ferry terminal in Mgarr to Xlendi. We passed through the village of Sannat and discovered even more stunning cliffs along the way on this coastal route. Gozo is smaller than Malta Island, but it is more rural and with more (non-road) hiking trails. Our only regret was that we weren’t spending several nights on Gozo so that we could have continued with a longer coastal circuit. 

On Malta Island we hiked 12+ miles/20 km along its southern coast from the popular Blue Grotto to Dingli Cliffs and then up to historic Mdina town (we combined several routes here). This was a nice mixture of trails along the coast and through farmlands and small villages. It really made us appreciate the contours of the island so much more having walked a chunk of it. Some of the route goes on narrow country roads, but there wasn't a lot of traffic so it wasn't an issue. Highly recommend walking as much of Malta as you can.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We based ourselves in Valletta, Malta and took public transport (buses and ferries) to get to/from the trails for these day hikes. This took more time than if we had rented a car, but it was also less stressful as we didn't have to worry about driving on the left side of the road or finding parking. If we had to do it again we would have spent several nights on Gozo island and done even more day hikes.

Tamang Heritage Trek: Nepal

Distance: 29.5 miles / 47.5 km
Days: 4.5 days

Why: To hike through Tamang (ethnic Tibetan Buddhist) villages with views of snow-covered Langtang Lirung and Ganesh Himal peaks (both above 7,200 meters/24,000 feet). The Tamang Heritage Trail was developed in the last decade as an alternative to the more popular and well-known Langtang Trek.

It is a sort of cultural trek so travelers could learn more about Tamang (Tibetan Buddhist) culture as they hiked through, and stayed in, different Tamang villages. Its aim is to be include more inclusive of different communities so that more may benefit from all the trekkers and travelers coming to this region. In addition, several of the villages along this trek were badly impacted by the 2015 earthquake in Nepal so bringing back trekking to these areas helps provide income to rebuild.

What also makes Nepal such a great trekking destination, including the Tamang Heritage Trail, is the infrastructure of tea houses and family guest houses in villages along many trails that make it easy to engage and stay with local families. This means you know your money is staying local and you’re usually getting fresh food directly from the garden. This also means you don’t need to carry tents, food or any camping equipment, making organization much easier (and lighter).

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We hired a porter/guide from Nepal Wilderness Trekking and specifically requested one who was Tamang and from this region. Himal, the founder of the organization, was very responsive to all of our questions and also organized our trekking permits and transportation to/from Syebrubesi (6-7 hours in a bumpy jeep). Although we could have done this independently and carried our own gear, we were happy to have Manoj with us to guide the way so we didn't get lost, translate into Tamang when speaking with local people, answer questions we had about Tamang culture and traditions, and also carry up to 15kg of our trekking gear. We found it worth the additional expense so that we could just focus on the experience, have a way to communicate with locals, and not worry about anything else. We recommend Manoj as a porter/guide for this and other treks in Nepal.

Kalaw to Inle Lake: Myanmar (Burma)

Distance: 61 km / 38 miles
Days: 3

Why: To hike through the hills of Myanmar’s Shan State between the town of Kalaw and the popular tourist destination of Inle Lake, and get a feel for rural life in Myanmar by staying with families and in a local monastery. What made this trek stand out for us was the interaction and engagement with people along the way, from the grandmother harvesting ginger roots to the ethnic Pao girls who wanted our water bottles so they had something to drink from while working the fields.

Walking to Inle Lake makes you appreciate the work of hill village locals who carry their their goods several times a week to the lakeside weekly markets. It also helps you appreciate the landscapes and rural life between Myanmar's main sites.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We booked our trek and guide with Sam's Family Trekking in Kalaw, Myanmar.

Gheralta Mountains: Ethiopia, Tigray Province

Days: 1-2 day hikes
Distance: 10-15 km / 6-9 miles, but the challenge is more in the free climbing

Why: To see 1,000-year old Ethiopian Orthodox churches carved high into the cliffs in a landscape reminiscent of the red rock deserts of Arizona and Utah. In order to reach those churches you must do some free-form rock climbing. The experience includes a few sheer drops that might send those with vertigo into a temporary, protective fetal position (We speak from experience, by the way).

However, there are rewards. In addition to the stunning views throughout the climb, you’ll have the opportunity to go inside remote cliff-side churches whose interiors are covered with 600-800 year old frescos – all with a monk or priest in as your guide. Although there are several treks in this area, the two we opted for were those up to the Daniel Korkor and Maryam Korkor churches. We suggest climbing them in that order, since tackling the former will help prepare you for the latter.

HOW WE DID THIS HIKE: We did this trek as part of our G Adventures tour in Ethiopia. Unfortunately, the tour itinerary has changed and no longer includes these treks. However, you could work with the local tour company to add trekking in the Gheralta Mountains onto the other tour. It's so worth it.

Read more:

• In Ethiopia, an Adrenaline-Filled Act of Faith
• Travel to Ethiopia: First Impressions
• Photo Essay: Trekking in Ethiopia’s Gheralta Mountains

Pic la Selle and Parc National la Visite, Haiti

Distance: 25-35 km / 15-29 miles
Days: 3

Why: To experience Haiti’s endless layers of mountains (the country’s name means “land of mountains” in the local indigenous Taino language) and its unexpected natural beauty while having the chance to meet and engage with people all along the way. You’ll meet school children on their way home, women carrying goods on their heads to market, and farmers plowing the fields.

Haiti’s cities can be busy and frenetic, so spending a few days in the hills of Parc National La Visite with a walk down local paths towards Port-au-Prince provides a chance to slow it all down and absorb this fascinating yet complicated destination in a different way. Not to mention, spending the cool evenings in the hills drinking Haitian hot chocolate and listening to konpa music is something we'll never forget.

HOW WE DID THIS TREK: We booked our Haiti trek and guide with Tour Haiti after our Haiti tour with G Adventures.

Read more:

• Haiti Trekking: A Beginner's Guide
• Travel in Haiti: First Impressions
• Photo Essay: Trekking in Haiti

What have we missed? Is there a favorite hike or unusual trek you’d add to this list? Please let us know in the comments! We – and our readers always appreciate more trekking inspiration.

The post Best Hikes Around the World: 15 Unusual Hikes You’re Not Considering…But Should appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Many people have never heard of the Cordillera Huayhuash since the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu usually get all the tourist and adventure travel attention in Peru. However, this small sub-range of the Peruvian Andes packs a huge punch for its size. Although only 30km long it includes six peaks over 6,000 meters (20,000 ft.) and features spectacular panoramic views of scores of high snow-covered peaks from different perspectives.

It’s not a coincidence that the Cordillera Huayhuash, together with the Himalayan Mountains in Nepal and India, is often listed among the top in the “best places in the world to trek” lists. Yes, it's that stunningly beautiful.

Here's why the Huayhuash Trek is one of the best treks we've ever done and why we continually recommend it. Writing this Huayhuash Trekking Guide brings back excellent memories and makes us want to return to explore even more.

How to use this Huayhuash Trekking Guide: This article is intended to be comprehensive. It contains all the information we wish we'd found when we researched and planned our own Huayhuash Trek. It includes all you need to choose, organize, pack for and enjoy trekking in the mountains of the Cordillera Huayhuash. Plus, it outlines what to expect day by day on the Huayhuash Trek. If questions remain, leave a comment so that others may benefit from the answer and information.

Peru Covid Travel Update

Peru is open to travelers and you can find all of the Covid travel and entry requirements on this official website. In addition to filling out a health declaration in advance, you will need to show proof of vaccination or testing to enter the country.

Currently (February 2022), the local communities along the Huayhuash treks are open for foreign visitors and camping, but some may have special requirements to enter. Be sure to check in advance with your trekking agency or tour operator. In addition, for safety and health reasons many trekking agencies are limiting group tours and are focusing mostly on individual tours.

Choosing a Huayhuash Trek

Huayhuash treks fall roughly into two categories: short (4-7 days) and long (8-14 days). If you have the time, we recommend choosing a route that is 10-12 days through the Cordillera Huayhuash. This length of circuit can provide a complete Huayhuash experience and deliver more views and stunning landscapes than you thought possible in one trek.

Classic Huayhuash Trek (8-14 days)

Longer treks will take you over more mountain passes in a full circuit so you can appreciate some of the high peaks from multiple angles. Each day includes at least one, and sometimes two, mountain passes ranging from 4,000+ meters/ 13,000+ feet up to 5,050m/16,570 feet. It is recommended to do three acclimatization hikes in and around Huaraz before embarking on one of these treks (see below for details).

We chose a 10-day Huayhuash trek and were very happy with the route, pace, difficulty and overall experience. We met other trekkers who had done an 8-day trek, but we found their route cut out some of our favorite vistas.

Short Huayhuash Treks (4-7 days)

Also known as Mini Huayhuash Treks, these shorter routes intend to provide trekkers a sort of “best of” sample of the Cordillera Huayhuash in a shorter period of time. These routes tend to focus around Lake Jahuacocha or Lake Carhuacocha and cross over several 4,000+ meter / 13,000+ feet mountain passes. Although not as challenging as the full Huayhuash Trek, these treks still require prior acclimatization in and around Huaraz.

Note: If you don’t think that you have the time, physical endurance or strength to do one of the Huayhuash Treks, consider one of the Santa Cruz treks in the nearby Cordillera Blanca. As we understand, these treks still include stunning scenery but are shorter and less physically demanding.

What to Expect on a 10-day Huayhuash Trek: Day by Day

Note: The itinerary outlined below is the one that we took. Although the route is the same, some of our campsites and overnights may differ slightly from some of the classic 10-day Huayhuash Trek itineraries. Together with our guide, we decided to adjust the itinerary so that we would climb up to San Antonio Pass on the morning of Day 7 vs. the afternoon of Day 6. This meant that we spread out the campsites after that a bit differently and did not have two nights at Lake Jahuacocha — a deliberate itinerary adjustment which was preferable to all of us.

We calculated distances and times using an exercise app. While fairly accurate, there may be some small differences than if we'd used a more sophisticated GPS device.

Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Matacancha (4,150 meters / 13,615 feet)

This is a driving day (7 hours) from Huaraz to get you to the trailhead so that you ready to start hiking the next day. You go through some beautiful scenery, including some overlooks with views of the Cordillera Huayhuash and a drive over the Cuncush Pass (4,750 meters/15,580 feet).

Day 2: Matacancha – Cacanan Pass – Mitucocha

Once at the trailhead, you’ll have time to unload all the gear, learn how to set up your tent, enjoy views of Mount Rondoy (5,870 meters / 19260 feet) and eat a hearty dinner before turning in early for the night.

This day begins with a steep zigzag ascent to Cacanan Pass (4,700 m/15,420 ft) which marks the continental divide (all rivers east of it flow towards the Amazon and all on the west flow towards the Pacific Ocean). Enjoy a snack and rest at the top before descending into a green valley where you may find a few vicuñas (related to llamas) grazing high in the hills or vizcachas (animals which look like a rabbit crossed with a squirrel) dashing around.

You’ll also have your first view of some of the snow-covered high peaks of Ninashanca (5,607 m), Jirashanca (6,094 m) and Jiraschanco Chico (5,445 m). The trail continues past the small village of Janca to the campsite near Lake Mitucocha at the foot of Mount Jirashanca.

Day 3: Mitucocha – Carhuac Pass – Carhuacocha Lake

The walk up to Carhuac Pass (4,650 m) is rather gentle and takes around three hours. You’ll be rewarded at the top with the first view of Mount Yerupaja (6,634 m), Peru’s second highest peak and the highest of the Cordillera Huayhuash. On the way down towards Lake Carhuacocha you’ll pass some Incan ruins and another small village.

The campsite is on the shore of the lake and features a stunning panoramic view of the snow-covered peaks of Yerupaja, Yerupaja Chico (6,121 m), Siula Grande (6,344 m) Jirashanca and Jirashanca Chico (5,446 m).

Day 4: Carhuacocha Lake – Siula Pass – Huayhuash

Wake up before sunrise, grab a cup of coca tea and climb to the top of the hill behind the campsite to watch the light transform the nearby snow-covered peaks as the sun rises. The reflection of the snow-covered peak in the lake is like a mirror, perfectly still and crisp. Mother Nature puts on a beautiful show as the colors change to pink and orange.

This is a beautiful morning walk that winds its way past the turquoise alpine lakes of Grangrajanca (4,245 m), Siula (4,290 m) and Quesillococha (4,332 m). As you rise in altitude to reach Siula Pass (4,800 m) more layers of mountains and lakes appear.

It’s a steep and rocky ascent to the pass, but you’re rewarded with views of Mount Carnicero (5,960 m), Jurau (5,600 m) and the eastern side of Siula Grande (6,344 m). Enjoy a picnic lunch here before descending to the campsite near Huayhuash.

Day 5: Huayhuash – Portachuelo Pass – Viconga (Hot Springs)

The day begins with a relatively easy ascent to Portachuelo Pass (4,750 m). Enjoy a snack at the top with views of the snow-covered mountains of the Cordillera Raura. The descent is long and steady, passing through green valleys filled with wildflowers and perhaps a llama, alpaca or two.

The Viconga campsite is at the foot of Mount Cuyoc (5,550 m). This campsite is the one place along the trek where you'll have an option to bathe.

Note: There are several hot spring pools near the campsite. We highly recommended you enjoy them thoroughly, both to bathe and to relax your muscles in the warm water. There is a small pool for washing with soap and then two other pools to soak in once you’re clean.

Day 6: Viconga – Cuyoc Pass – Pampa Cuyoc

This relatively short day includes Cuyoc Pass (5,000 m), the first of the trek’s two 5,000+ meter mountain passes. This is a relatively long switchback ascent through rocky, high desert terrain. The panoramic views from the top are spectacular and include a sort of “best of” the Cordillera Huayhuash, including Jurau, Sarapo (6,127 m), Siula, Yerupaja, Rasac (6,017 m), Tsacra (5,548 m) and Huacrish (5,622 m).

Descend to Pampa Cuyoc at the base of San Antonio Pass (5,050 m) for lunch and a relaxing afternoon. There are optional short hikes to nearby hills for anyone who still wants to stretch their legs.

Note: Many itineraries include an optional climb up to San Antonio Pass on the same day with an overnight at Huanacpatay campsite. Together with our guide, our group opted to hike up to San Antonio in the morning when the skies were clearer and we had more energy.

Day 7: Huanacpatay Valley – San Antonio Pass – Huayllapa Village

Begin this day with a steep climb up the scree and rocks to San Antonio Pass (5,050 m), the highest pass of the trek. Take your time at the top to enjoy the best viewpoint of Mount Siula Grande (of “Touching the Void” fame) and nearby alpine lakes. You may also spot a few condors flying about, searching for prey.

Descend the same way and continue on the trail through a series of green valleys and cultivated fields to Huayllapa village. After you set up camp in one of the school fields, enjoy a walk through the village.

Note: this is the only set of shops and services you will come across on the trek. Someone in our group had his hiking shoes repaired here as one of the soles had begun to fall off.

Day 8: Huayllapa Village – Tapush Pass – Gashpapampa Valley

Leaving the village behind the trail takes you up to a high plateau that rises gradually up to Tapush Pass (4,800 m). You’ll have glacier-covered Mount Diablo Mudo in front of you for much of the way up to the pass. Views over Lake Susucocha (4,740 m) are revealed at the top. Enjoy the wildflowers, birds and views of the Cordillera Blanca in the distance as you descend into Gashpapampa Valley for the night. Once you reach camp, bundle up since this was a pretty cold night and morning for us.

Day 9: Gashpapampa Valey – Yaucha Pass – Cerro Huacrish – Jahuacocha Lake

Each time you think that the views and the moment can’t get any better, they do. Take it slow and enjoy.

The day begins with a slow and steady scree-covered ascent which takes you up to Yaucha Pass (4,850 m), the final high mountain pass of the trek. As you come over the pass you have an incredible panoramic view of Cordillera Huayhuash’s highest peaks, decked out in glaciers and snow-covered. Talk about dramatic. Keep your eyes out for condors here as well.

Continue on to Cerro Huacrish with another beautiful view to both the giant peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash on the right and Cordillera Blanca and Huallanca on the left. Just sit and take it all in. Finally, as you descend towards Lake Jahuacocha you’ll reach another ridge that overlooks the turquoise lakes below surrounded by mountains.

There is one last very steep descent through pastures and grazing cows to get to the campsite near the shores of Lake Jahuacocha. Watch how the light and the reflection on the lake of the surrounding mountains changes throughout the day.

Since we had free time in the afternoon we did an optional hike out to Solteracocha Lake (3.6 miles / 5.8 km) that took two hours. Climb up to the rim above the lake and just enjoy the deep turquoise color of the alpine lake and the surrounding snow-covered peaks.

Day 10: Jahuacocha Lake – Pampa Llamac Pass – Llamac Village – Huaraz

This is the last day of hiking and although it isn’t as dramatic as the day before, it's still pleasant and features a relatively easy walk out to Llamac Village. You’ll be able to catch one last view of the Cordillera Huayhuash peaks from Pampa Llaman Pass (4,300 m) before descending through villages and high desert to the village. The vehicle will be waiting there to take you back to Huaraz (about a 5-hour drive).

Best time to do the Huayhuash Trek

The trekking season in the Cordillera Huayhuash and Cordillera Blanca begins mid-to-late May and runs until September. This is the dry season and also considered “Andean summer.” The high tourist season is July and August. During this time you'll have clearer weather, but the lack of rain means that the mountains will dry and brown throughout the season.

We did our trek mid to late May; we felt it perfect timing. We had a bit of rain at the very beginning of our trek, but the mornings were clear and the rains only usually began in the afternoon after we'd already set up camp. After a few days, the rains stopped altogether and we had perfect weather.

Because it was still early in the trekking season, trails and campsites were not crowded. Mountains remained green and lush since the rainy season had just ended.

If you can time it, try your Huayhuash trek during the shoulder season from mid-May to early June.

The low and rainy season is from October to April with the highest rain in January – March. Many high passes are still snowed in from December to March, so that that might make it impossible for trekkers and the donkeys to be able to pass. There is also the risk of landslides during this time which might wash out the trails and hillsides. There have robberies of independent trekkers during this time as are alone with no other people around, so it's not recommended to trek independently in the off season.

Because of all this we recommend timing your trek between May and September or early October.

Huayhuash Trek Difficulty and Conditions

The following information is based on our own personal experiences on a 10-day fully-supported Huayhuash trek. Support included a trekking guide, cook, donkey wranglers, and a team of donkeys to carry our gear, camping equipment, food and trash.

We added information for independent trekkers where available.

Huayhuash Trek Difficulty

We’d categorize the difficulty of the 10-day Huayhuash Trek we did as medium-high, leaning more on the high side of the range. This is because of its daily high mountain pass crossings (4,000+ meter/13,000+ feet), sleeping at high altitude and distance.

Don't let the elevation frighten you away. Our trekking group included people from their late 20s to a 74-year-old (who had both knees replaced within the last three years). We all had prior experience hiking and doing multi-day treks, but none of us were hard core mountain climbers. We'd all simply done our acclimatization treks in and around Huaraz — that's what makes the difference.

While this implies that special training is not required for the Huayhuash trek, you ought to be relatively active and in good physical shape before taking it on. You should be either be accustomed to or prepared for multi-day treks with steep, slow uphill climbs at high altitude.

Not a Technical Trail

The classic Huayhuash trek we did was not technical. To do it, we didn't need special equipment (e.g., climbing ropes, crampons, or other mountain climbing fittings). We do recommend using walking or trekking poles, however. They provide stability and balance and take some of the pressure off your knees and joints, especially on the steep descents.

Huayhuash trekking trails in the mountains are well-maintained and for the most part are relatively easy to follow. There are a couple of streams or rivers to cross, and depending upon the time of year you may need to take your shoes off or consider using river sandals. That’s all part of the fun.

Dealing with Altitude on the Huayhuash Trek

You will reach some high altitudes during the Huayhuash trek. The highest point on our trek was 5,050 meters / 16,570 feet at San Antionio Pass. Each day, we crossed mountain passes ranging from 4,000 – 5,000 meters / 13,000 – 16,500 feet. And, we were often sleeping around 4,000 meters / 13,000 feet. Understanding how your body responds to altitude and how to best manage your response to it is important for your enjoyment of this trek.

At altitude, our advice is to take it slow and steady on the uphill. Our guide, Edgar, was a hiking zen master at this – he would start our group out slow in the morning, especially if we had a steep ascent, so that our bodies could wake up and adjust. If you think you’re going ridiculously slow, then it probably means you are at the right pace. Trekking is like meditation The slower you move, the more likely you are to enjoy what's around you. And the more successful you will be.

It’s better to proceed deliberately and slowly with fewer breaks than to move quickly and wear yourself out so that you need to recuperate with frequent and longer stops. At high altitude this is even more important in order to avoid getting sick and to maintain your energy levels.

In addition, drink LOTS of water as your body needs more liquids at altitude. I would usually drink a liter of water at breakfast before we even began walking, just to have a bit of “hydration reserve.” It’s recommended to drink at least two to three liters a day at high altitudes like this.

Note: If you really suffer from altitude sickness you can also consider taking Diamox. We have avoided taking it by using natural methods (e.g., water, walking slowly, etc.), but we do know people who have benefited from taking it in small doses. Be sure to talk with your doctor first about its side effects, including the additional water you must drink when taking it.

Rain and weather conditions on the Huayhuash Trek

We'd been warned about rain because the timing of our trek coincided with the end of the rainy season (mid-May). We arrived prepared with waterproof ponchos, jackets, and pants. Mornings were usually clearest and at the beginning of our trek, it rained during a couple of afternoons. But we didn’t find the the weather a hindrance to our enjoyment. Only once on the trail were we forced to pile on all the serious rain gear. All other times, the rain arrived only after we'd set up camp, which included a waterproof dining tent.

Carry a waterproof cover for your day pack. Protect any valuable electronic gear like smartphones or cameras in a dry bag or multiple Ziploc plastic bags. All our gear was carried by donkeys, and all the bags were wrapped in multiple layers of plastic tarp to protect them from rain. In addition, we packed our clothes, sleeping bags and other important items in an additional layer of plastic bags.

If you are trekking independently and carrying all your gear with you, you must carry a good waterproof cover for your backpack and use Ziploc or other waterproof bags to keep everything dry inside in the case of heavy rain.

Note: If you monitor weather forecasts and apps, we recommend you consider taking them with a grain of salt. For us, forecasts for the Huayhuash (Ancash) mountain area predicted alpine weather armageddon right up until the moment we began our trek. Reality turned out to be quite different (see the photos). For those of you who book a Huayhuash trek and are freaked out by weather reports — just as we had been — and you find yourself tempted to cancel, seriously reconsider. If you book with a trekking company, as we did, check in with them for a bit of a local weather report reality check.

Food Along the Huayhuash Trek

If you do a fully-supported trek as we did, there's absolutely no chance for you to go hungry on the Huayhuash trek. Our group had its own cook and he created some incredible meals for us using a simple camping kitchen and limited ingredients.

On most days we were served three full meals, with lunch and dinner usually each consisting of 3 courses (e.g., soup or salad, main dish and dessert). On days where the schedule and route was a little tighter, we were given sandwiches as a picnic lunch.

Each morning we we were given bags of treats (e.g., chocolate, quinoa bars, biscuits, fruit, etc.) to ensure we never got hungry on the trail between meals. We always had a mid-afternoon tea and snack break at the campsite. There were always treats and surprises each day.

If you are vegetarian or have food restrictions (e.g., gluten, dairy, etc.), alert your trekking company and guide in advance so they can prepare accordingly.

Independent trekkers will need to carry and cook their own food, of course. There are a few big grocery stores in Huaraz that can supply you with basic ingredients, but if you have a specific type of camping food or brand that you prefer then you should probably bring that from home. Please clean up after yourself! We saw too many empty discarded cans of tuna and other food containers along the trail. That's just rude and disrespectful.

Clean Water Along the Huayhuash Trek

We were provided ample amounts of clean water (i.e., boiled for a certain period of time to kill germs) each morning by our cook and the support team. This is what we drank throughout the day as we walked. Our goal was to drink a minimum of two to three liters of water each day.

Of course, there are lots of mountain streams where you can gather water to drink throughout the trek. We carried water purification drops with us in case we needed to use water from a stream or other source. We never had to use them because clean water had already been prepared for us.

Huayhuash Trek Campsites and Sleeping Arrangements

You’ll be camping and sleeping in tents throughout the Huayhuash trek. There are no real homestays or other sleeping options, except in Huayllapa where there are some family guest houses. We slept in two-person tents (provided by the trekking agency). Although these tents were not huge, we had enough space to sleep and position our belongings on the edges of the tent.

By the time we arrived at the campsite each day, our tents were usually already set up for us by the support team. We were very thankful for this little bit of luxury after a long day of hiking.

Local communities manage the campsites along the different Huayhuash trekking routes. This community-based system is relatively new. It used to be that trekkers could pretty much pitch their camp anywhere, and for free. Understandably, local people got a bit tired of people using their lands, and often not cleaning up after themselves. Communities weren't seeing any financial benefit from tourism development in the region. A system was then set up to compensate the local communities for use of their lands and also to help share some money and benefit from tourism and trekking growth.

Campsites are still pretty basic and located in remote areas, so don’t expect services or shops. In general, you’ll find a place to pitch tents and an outhouse (or two) on the edge usually consisting of a drop toilet or a toilet bowl without water. With the exception of the hot springs near Lake Viconga on Day 5, there is no running water at the campsites. Expect to trek without showers. (Note: if you are on a fully-supported trek like the one we took, you will likely be provided a bowl of hot water in the morning for washing.)

Each community collects a fee from each person (usually $3-$8/person) who stays at a campsite and uses its facilities. You’ll often find an individual or family visiting early in the morning to collect the money. You’ll receive a receipt for your payment.

We heard stories of some trekkers trying to arrive late or pack up early to avoid paying these community camping fees. Just don’t. It’s disrespectful and it creates problems between trekkers and local people, making it difficult for future visitors wishing to enjoy the area.

Organizing a Huayhuash Trek

A Huayhuash trek can be done either independently (e.g., without a guide) or through a trekking agency (e.g., fully supported with a guide, cook, assistants, donkeys to carry gear, etc.). Decision factors include your trekking experience and physical shape, skill at reading trekking maps, budget, weather, and preference. Let's examine these.

Hiking the Huayhuash Trek Independently

Although you won’t see trail markers along the route you can usually pick up trails pretty easily based on their use by trekkers, donkey trains and local shepherds. This means that if you have a lot of experience doing multi-day treks, reading trail maps, using a GPS and hiking at high altitude then you should be able to safely do the Huayhuash trek independently.

Some advantages of trekking Huayhuash independently including being able to create and adjust your own route and setting your own pace. The cost will be much lower as you are not paying for a support team, guide, etc. However, you should still stay at community campsites and pay the required fees so as to respect local people and local community regulations.

However, there are some other considerations. Trekking independently means that you’re carrying all your own camping gear, food, clothing, and more. Since the only real village with shops is Huayllapa, you should expect to carry 7-8 days of food with you. All of this weight adds up and can get heavy, especially when you’re going over a 5,000+ meter / 16,500 foot mountain pass. We saw some trekkers struggle with their packs and the extra weight.

In addition, we also met some trekkers who were lost as they thought they were following one circuit, but ended up on another. Our guide would usually help to steer them in the right direction or offer a short cut to help them get back on track. While this may not sound like a big deal on the surface, it can be quite stressful when you only have a limited amount of food with you and the weather around you is changing as the day wears on.

For more on trekking Huayhuash independently check out this guide.

Choosing a Huayhuash Trek Tour

Given the length, distance and high altitudes of the Huayhuash trek, we knew we wanted to do it supported – with a guide, cook, support team, donkeys to carry our gear. Our goal was to enjoy the walk, including the stunning mountain landscapes and being immersed in nature without worrying about getting lost, carrying all our gear, or struggling to cook or set up our tent each night.

We were and are thrilled with our choice.

Having a local trekking guide provided us with the peace of mind that we were always on the right path. (Some of you may remember, we have a history of getting lost in mountains).

Our local guide, Edgar, knew everything about the Cordillera Huayhuash from leading trekking and mountain climbing groups there for over 17 years – all the local legends of the peaks around us, wildlife, birds, flowers, natural medicines, and more. As he was Quechua he could also provide context and information about indigenous culture, growing up in the mountains, and changes he’d witnessed over his lifetime.

While doing the Huayhuash trek independently may save you some money and allow you more flexibility in route and pace, our experience proved to us beyond a doubt that the benefits of doing a supported trek with a guide, cook, support team and donkeys far outweighs the costs.

Choosing a Huayhuash Trekking Agency

If you do as we did and work with a trekking agency for a supported Huayhuash trek, the next step is trying to figure out which trek to choose based on the route, level of comfort, budget, and schedule you're looking for.

Booking a Huayhuash Trek in Advance

Because we had a limited window of time to do our 10-day Huayhuash Trek we needed to book our trip in advance. When I began to search around and contact different trekking agencies in Huaraz I found that prices varied quite a bit and could be very expensive, especially if there wasn’t an existing group departure for the dates I wanted.

A bit discouraged, I continued to search, focusing on trekking companies which already had existing trek departure dates that fit our schedule. That’s when I found Quechuandes Travel and Adventure Agency recommended on some traveler and trekker forums and their open group departures calendar (usually on their Facebook page).

Jackpot!

They had a departure date for the 10-day Huayhuash trek we wanted to do during our limited time window. From the first communication with Marie, the co-owner, I was impressed by the transparency of information, pricing and details. I also appreciated that she was explicit that the price was the same whether we booked in advance or as a walk-in. And, we felt that price was fair to all parties — to us, to the company, and to the guides — from the beginning.

We paid a deposit (50%) to secure our spots for that departure date (Note: Transferwise offered the best rates for this international wire transfer so if you’re new to the service use this link to get a free $500 international transfer). The remainder we paid in cash when we met in person in Huaraz a few days prior to the trek departure.

Another thing that impressed me about Quechuandes were the materials they sent in advance. They focused on sustainable tourism — the environment and conservation, being respectful of local culture, understanding local socioeconomic issues. You could tell that this information was not copied from the internet, but created after years of experience working with the local communities and in these mountains.

Regardless of which operator you choose to take you on the Huayhuash Trek, select one which works with local guides and support staff, pays fair wages, and operates in a responsible and respectful way towards the environment and local people.

Booking a Huayhuash Trek in Huaraz

If you have a flexible schedule, it’s also possible to book your Huayhuash trek directly in Huaraz, the city which serves as the base for all treks in Cordillera Huayhuash and Cordillera Blanca. There are heaps of trekking agencies around, many with signs outside indicating upcoming trek departures and availability.

You can walk around, meet with different trekking agencies, ask about price and services, and then make a decision. If the price sounds too good, it might be. Ask questions to be sure of what you’re getting for your money. We witnessed other groups on the trail whose food options appeared limited and whose tents and donkeys looked worse for wear.

It’s worth it to spend a bit more for the comfort of a trained guide and cook, and to know that the staff are receiving fair wages and the animals are well cared for.

As the Huayhuash Trek has become more popular these last years many departures are already filled up so you may not be able to get on the trek for the time period you'd like. So if you have any sort of limited schedule it's best to book in advance.

Price of a Huayhuash Trek Tour

Current (2019) costs for for the 10-day Huayhuash Trek with Quechuandes (minimum of 5 people in the group) is $70/day or $700 for the full trek. The maximum group size was eight persons. Given the level of support and service we received we felt this was a very fair price, and it was much lower than many other similar trekking agencies.

The tour and price included:

• private transport to the trailhead (Matacancha) and from the end (Llamac)
• a certified mountain guide, cook, muleteer (donkey handler), and assistant
• donkeys to carry gear (up to 8kg per trekker), food, cooking equipment, etc. + emergency horse
• food, snacks and clean water
• 2-person tent and sleeping mat. If you wanted a private tent, that was an additional fee

The tour price did not include sleeping bags or community campsite fees (approx. 200 soles/ $60 per person for ten days). I rented my Marmot down -10 C sleeping bag from Quechuandes for 20 soles/$6 per day ($60 total). Dan was able to borrow a sleeping bag from a friend in Berlin, but otherwise he would have rented one from them as well. It is essential you carry a proper alpine sleeping bag on this trek.

Renting Trekking and Camping Gear in Huaraz

You can arrive in Huaraz without any trekking or camping gear and be outfitted with all that you need pretty quickly either through renting or buying. Quechuandes, the trekking agency that we used, rents out a large selection of gear (that’s where I rented my -10 C down Marmot sleeping bag). Many other trekking agencies offer the same.

In addition, there are quite a few shops in town specializing in trekking gear where you can buy new or sometimes even used clothes or other items. A couple on our trek bought used fleece jackets and waterproof pants from Huaraz all of which served them well.

Leaving your luggage behind during the trek

Most accommodation and tour operators/trekking agencies will allow you to leave your big bags or luggage with them for the time that you're doing the Huayhuash trek. We left our big backpacks at the hotel in Huaraz we were staying at prior to the trek and then picked them up on our return. Although we haven't heard of any problems with luggage and theft, it's always best to securely lock your bags for their time in storage.

Acclimatization hikes around Huaraz before the Huayhuash Trek

Especially if you’re coming from sea level (e.g., Lima) or low altitudes, it's a wise (if not essential) idea to spend a couple of days acclimatizing in Huaraz (3,050 meters / 10,000 feet) and doing a few acclimatization day hikes. This means hiking to a higher altitude during the day and then sleeping at lower elevation at night (e.g., Huaraz).

For the Huayhuash Trek with its daily high mountain passes, at least three acclimatization hikes are recommended prior to setting off. Marie from Quechuandes essentially told us we had to do a minimum of three acclimatization hikes before starting the Huayhuash trek. This may sound a bit extreme, but we get it. She’s trying to ensure that trekkers identify any problems they may have in advance and be sure they are fully prepared so they can mitigate risks and enjoy the trek to the fullest.

In fact, we met a group of women on an 8-day Huayhuash trek who did not do any acclimatization treks. They were hurting the first couple of days and looked miserable. Don’t do that to yourself. Don't sabotage your trek for the sake of saving a couple of days. It's a poor decision. Altitude sickness is no joke. It’s not fun and it can become very dangerous. It’s better to take the time to acclimatize properly before departing on the long trek. Not to mention, the acclimatization hikes are all pretty fabulous and enjoyable in their own right.

Marie sent us this list of suggested acclimatization treks. After talking with her we chose the following acclimatization day hikes to help prepare us for the Huayhuash Trek.

Lake Wilcacocha Acclimatization Hike

Distance: 11.9 km / 7.4 miles
Walking time: 3.5 hours
Max elevation: 3,700 meters / 13,140 feet

This is a simple and easy hike near Huaraz. It's a good one to begin with. It features a steady incline for a couple of hours along a dirt road until you reach Lake Wilcacocha at the top. The lake itself is not particularly impressive, but there is a nice overlook so you can get a feel for the countryside around.

To get there, take the Route 10 or Route E collectivo (public bus) from near the Huaraz central market (corner of Raymondi and Hualcan streets). It costs around 2-3 soles ($0.60-$0.90) per person. Let the driver know that you want to get off near Laguna Wilcacocha. After getting off the bus, cross the small bridge and you’ll see a sign at the trailhead.

Lake Rajucolta Acclimatization Hike

Distance: 16.6 km / 10.3 miles
Walking time: 5 hours, 20 minutes
Max elevation: 4,270 meters / 14,010 feet

This is not one of the typical acclimatization hikes, but it came recommended by Marie. We really enjoyed it. It’s a nice walk that isn’t too difficult at the beginning, but increases in difficulty as you climb up to the lake. Mount Huantsan, the 3rd highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca (6,395 m / 20,980 ft), guides the way and serves as a stunning backdrop to Laguna Rajucolta.

There were no other hikers on the trail the day we went. We and two other hikers going on the same Huayhuash trek as us had the whole place to ourselves, with the exception of a few shepherds and their flocks of animals. Highly recommended.

The Laguna Rajucolta hike requires private transport with a 4×4 vehicle to get there and back as the roads get rough after turning off the main road. The drive takes around 1.5-2 hours from Huaraz. We hired a driver through Quechuandes for around 220 soles ($66) for the entire car (4-5 persons). He dropped us off at the trailhead in the morning and then waited for us all day to return.

Laguna 69 Hike

Distance: 13.8 km / 8.6 miles
Walking time: 4 hours, 45 minutes
Max elevation: 4,600 meters / 15,090 feet

This is one of the more popular day hikes in the Huaraz region, and for good reason. Located in Huascaran National Park in the Cordillera Blanca, this hike climbs up to Laguna 69, a beautiful alpine lake with Mount Chacraraju (6,112 meters / 20,052 feet) as a backdrop. The views on the path up are also pretty stunning and spectacular. Be sure to allow and take time to look around and enjoy them. There are some challenging, steep ascents. But, that’s also what makes it an excellent acclimatization hike and preparation for the Huayhuash trek.

The easiest way to organize the Laguna 69 hike is to buy a “tour” in Huaraz that essentially includes bus transportation with a guide. We bought ours from Quechuandes for 35 soles / $10.50 per person and had an early morning 5AM pickup at our hotel. You’ll stop for breakfast along the way. If you don’t have a packed lunch with you already, your breakfast stop is also an opportunity to buy lunch for the hike. The entrance fee for Huascaran National Park is 30 soles / $9 per person.

Where to stay in Huaraz

There is certainly no shortage of places to stay in Huaraz. We stayed at El Jacal Classic before and after our trek. It is located a few blocks from the main square and downtown area, so it is both conveniently located and quiet. Request a room that is not at the top of the stairs as it can get a bit loud with people coming and going. Breakfast is served on the rooftop, which has a great view.

If you are hiking with Quechuandes they also offer the Quechuandes B&B now for clients that looks like a great option for staying in Huaraz before and after your trek.

They are accustomed to trekkers, so it's no problem to leave your luggage there when you're off in the mountains.

What to pack for the Huayhuash Trek

Check out our full Ultimate Trekking Packing List with all the details on what to bring with you on a day or multi-day trek like the Huayhuash Trek (or anywhere else). However, we offer a customized Huayhuash Trek packing list to ensure you have what you need, yet don't overpack.

We suggest you ask your trekking agency and perform some independent research about the temperatures at night during the time of your trek. This will determine how many layers you'll need to carry and the weight your jacket(s). For example, temperatures dipped to -10 C / 14 F during a couple of the nights and early mornings on our trek so we were very thankful to have extra layers of long underwear, fleece and more.

As mentioned above, tents and sleeping pads were provided by Quechuandes.

Clothing

You really don’t need much in this department. Don’t worry about packing clean clothes for each day, as everyone is just wearing the same thing or repurposing the same clothes each day. Here’s what we suggest:

• 1-2 pairs of trekking pants: We're both been using Clothing Arts Travel Pants (for men and for women) as our go-to trekking pants these last few years. They hold up well on multi-day treks in terms of hiding dirt, drying quickly, not getting stinky. We find the additional secure pockets useful on treks for keeping phones, money, tissues and other things handy.
• 2-3 short-sleeved t-shirts: Preferably quick-dry or regular cotton (his and hers quick-dry t-shirts).
• 1 long-sleeved travel/trekking shirt: This is useful not only as a layer of warmth in the chilly mornings when you first start hiking, but also as protection for your arms from the strong sun (his and hers).
• Hiking shoes: We both recently shifted to wearing Oboz Sawtooth hiking boots. The insoles and support for your feet are really good, and the shoes are sturdy and can stand up to some tough terrain. In addition, Oboz plants a tree for every pair of shoes sold so you can feel good that your purchase is going towards reforestation and environmental projects. Men's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy at Backcountry | Women's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy at Backcountry
• 1 set of evening clothes for dinner and sleep sleep: T-shirt, long pants (or pajama bottoms), socks. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside your backpack.
• Underwear: Usually one pair for every day of the hike. Here are recommended men's boxer shorts and women's underwear
• Hiking socks: I love SmartWool hiking socks as my first pairs lasted me almost seven years of heavy usage. If you prefer a thinner sock check out their ultra-light line. I often wear a sock liner together with wool hiking socks.
• Bathing suit: For the hot springs on day 5 of the hike.
• Fleece jacket: For cool nights or sleeping (can double as a pillow, too).
• Waterproof rain jacket: For this trek I upgraded to a NorthFace Climatech technology waterproof jacket and I love it. It not only provided protection against the rain and cold, but the jacket material is very breathable so it didn't feel like a sauna inside when I used it. Highly recommended.
• Waterproof poncho: This long backpack poncho goes over you, your backpack and most of your legs so it really provides great protection from the rain.
• Waterproof pants: Pick up a pair of light pull-on biking waterproof/water resistant pants. They fold up into a small bag so they barely take up any room or weight in your backpack, but keep you quite dry when the clouds open up.
• Light down jackets: These can be stuffed into a tiny cinch bag and are so light that you can carry them with you in your day pack. We used these for warmth and comfort at night when temperatures drop. Dan loves his seamless ultra-light down jacket from Uniqlo.
• Flip-flops or river shoes: These are useful for the evenings when you want to get your feet a break from hiking shoes or you need to run to the outhouse in the middle of the night. Women's River Shoes | Men's River Shoes

Other Trekking Gear

• Sleeping Bag: This needs to be comfort rated to at least -10 C / 14 F. I rented my heavy duty down sleeping bag from the trekking agency, Quechuandes. If you are looking to buy a sleeping bag for your trek, one of the guys in our trekking group used this North Face 3-in-1 One Bag Sleeping Bag and found it warm enough and comfortable. Dan was looking at this Hyke & Byke Eolus 0 Degree sleeping bag before one of our friends lent him one to use. It was recommended and seemed like a good price.
• Refillable water bottle: Bring with you 1-2 refillable water bottles and/or a water bladder so that you always have at least one liter of water on you at all times. You'll be able to refill your bottles with clean water in the morning before you leave for the day and when you get to camp in the afternoon. If you really want to play it safe consider carrying with you a SteriPEN or sterilization drops.
• Trekking poles: We highly recommend using trekking poles for this trek, especially for the steep downhill sections. We'll usually share one walking stick set of two so each of us uses one stick. However, most people in our group used two poles each. This set of travel-friendly walking sticks fold up easily for luggage and assemble quickly when on the trail.
• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand. We also put electronics and other items in plastic or zip-loc bags inside the backpack as a extra protection for them.
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off after showers, and also after a swim. Hang it on the outside of your backpack in the morning so it dries quickly in the sun and air as you move.
• Silk sleep sack: To provide an extra layer of protection and warmth between you and the sleeping bag.
• Headlamp: None of the campsites have electricity so a headlamp is essential for finding your way to the toilet and to sort through your stuff at night in your tent.
• Silicone earplugs: A precaution in the case your camp has a snorer.

Toiletries and Health Kit

You'll have access to hot springs to bathe on day 5, but for the rest of your trek you'll receive a small bucket of hot water either first thing in the morning or in the evening to wash your face and other basics.

• Soap, toothbrush, toothpaste and dental floss: The basics.
• Sunscreen: The higher the SPF, the better. You're at high altitudes for most of this trek where it's much easier to become burned. Keep applying sunscreen.
• Sunglasses: At high altitudes the sun is super strong so go for sunglasses that will protect your eyes vs. be fashionable.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side, especially for lunch and snacks on the trail.
• Pack of tissues: You will be provided with a roll of toilet paper, but it’s always a good idea to carry a pack of tissues in case of messes, spills or emergencies.
• Duct tape: Very effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet. Also consider picking up some Compeed, which is magic when you already have blisters.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration powders, ciprofloxacin/azithromycin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea), tea tree oil (great to apply to mosquito bites) Note: all these are easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Huaraz from where you depart for the trek.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

None of the campsites have electricity. Prepare yourself for not having access to electricity during the trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode. There is no connectivity along the trek anyhow, so don't waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• We brought a solar powered power bank and used it to charge our smartphones, when necessary.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. Here’s an example for our iPhone X battery case. It provides another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spent time reviewing your images on your phone or camera, as this will drain your battery power quickly.

Conclusion: Huayhuash Trek, A Trek of a Lifetime

Yep. For us, there's no way to oversell our experience on the Huayhuash Trek. During the trek, we felt the kind of deep decompression we feel whenever we head into the mountains on a long walk. The sense of accomplishment — individually and shared with a group of fun people — is profound. The memories, as we write this piece and flip through one stunning, astounding image after another, are still fresh.

All that's left now is for you to give it a try. Any questions, ask them in the comments. And if you decide to do it, let us know how you get on.

The post Huayhuash Trek, Peru: All You Need to Know About Hiking in the Cordillera Huayhuash appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Every year we try to go on a big trek, one that takes us far far away and high into the mountains. For us, it's not only a way to exercise our bodies, but to clear and challenge our minds. It’s a way to disconnect from all that is part of our daily life — technology, social media, blogging — and reconnect with nature and ourselves.

Our trek of the Markha Valley in Ladakh in India’s high Himalayas was one of our favorite treks of all time. We had dangerously high expectations, having dreamed of this region for over a decade. Fortunately, what we found in Ladakh and on our trek far exceeded what we had imagined, not only in terms of the stunning landscape but also the Ladakhi people.

Update: This article was originally published in January 2014 and updated in July 2019 with current 2019 prices, a Ladakh trekking packing list and other information.

Update: You can now buy the Ladakh Trekking: A Beginner’s Guide with all the information from this site plus lots of extra details and other goodies (like packing and other preparation) in an easy ebook that you can download and take with you.

Choosing a trek in Ladakh

There are loads of trekking choices in Ladakh. Your choice will depend on the amount of time you have, how remote you'd like to go, and the difficultly level you seek. Some of the more remote treks require special permits as they may go into sensitive border areas, but trekking agencies can easily take care of this for you within a day or two.

There are endless variations of treks you can take in Ladakh, with many taking you to remote areas and can go up to three weeks. You can find a full list of Ladakh trekking options here.

Some of the more popular treks in Ladakh include:

• Markha Valley Trek (6-7 days): This is the one that we chose because it combined hiking and landscapes with people and culture by incorporating homestays with families in villages along the way. For us, this combination is ideal and resulted in a trekking experience that exceeded our expectations. The Markha Valley Trek is also the most popular Ladakh trek and we’re told it can get crowded in the high season (July and August). If you travel to Ladakh during high season, take this into consideration and perhaps choose a less popular trek to avoid crowded trails and home accommodations.
• Hidden Valleys of Ladakh, Zanskar Range (9-10 days): This trek takes you into the Zanskar range and through small villages throughout the valley area. Camping gear is required as it’s not possible to do homestays for the entire trek.
• Nubra Valley (5-6 days): This can either be done without much trekking for 2-3 days, or it can be a fuller trekking experience with camping, camel rides and more. We’ve heard the area is quite beautiful.
• Kharnak trek (15 days): Begins like the Markha Valley trek but continues further south for another week. A Ladakhi trekking guide told us this is one of his favorite treks.
• Rumtse to Tsomoriri (8-9 days): This was another favorite trek from a guide we spoke to because of the beauty of the lakes and the joy of interaction with shepherds along the way. This trek is on the short list for when we return.

To trek independently or with a guide?

Some treks require a guide due to the difficulty of the trail or local regulations. Other routes like the Markha Valley Trek can be done independently (e.g., without a guide) because the trail is pretty well marked and there are villages to stay in throughout the way. You then have the decision of whether to go on your own or hire a guide. Factors include: budget, your trekking experience, skill at reading trekking maps, and weather. Let's examine these.

Although our Markha Valley trek could have been done without a guide, we were thankful to have one. Having a local guide provided us with the peace of mind that we were always on the right path (as some of you may remember, we have a history of getting lost in mountains).

As luck would have it, we crossed our first Markha Valley trek mountain pass in the middle of a snow storm. Without our guide, we never would have found the correct approach. Two guys trekking independently with us said they would have turned back that day if it weren’t for our guide to help them find the path. Word to the wise: It pays to hitch a ride with Dan and Audrey…if they have a guide!

Our local guide also provided local context and culture (e.g., Ladakhi Buddhist) to the experience. We asked him many questions about his life growing up in a remote village in Ladakh and the changes he’d seen in his short lifetime. He served as an interpreter, providing us the flexibility to have conversations with families we stayed with or ask questions of people we'd met along the way.

So while trekking Ladakh independently may save you some money and perhaps allow you a little more flexibility, our experience proved to us beyond a doubt that the benefits of having a guide in this region far outweighs the costs.

Ladakh Accommodation and Sleeping Options: Camping or Homestay?

Some treks will give you the option of either camping or homestays (staying with Ladakhi families in villages). Here are the advantages and disadvantages of both.

Camping: The primary advantage of camping (if you are going with an agency) is that it includes a horse to carry your bags so you don’t have to haul your stuff on your back up to 5,000+ meters and back down again. Another bonus: you can sometimes camp closer to passes, making for easier ascents. A perhaps obvious disadvantage of camping: sleeping in a tent when it’s rainy and cold or blowing snow can be unpleasant. In addition, this option is usually more expensive as you'll need your own cook and horse guide in addition to your trekking guide.

Homestays: If the trek you choose offers the option of homestays, we suggest taking it. Staying with Ladakhi families in villages throughout our Markha Valley trek was absolutely one of the highlights and delights of the experience. The people, culture and tradition ground you. Food (see below) is also a fun facet. Not to mention, homestays are typically less expensive than camping.

Note: We recently met the founder of Mountain Homestays, a social enterprise working to empower rural communities through the development of homestays together with local people and families. You can search for unique Ladakh homestays here, including those focused on astronomy where you have access to a powerful telescope to explore the sky in almost perfect high altitude and remote conditions.

What to expect in a Ladakhi homestay:

• Home-cooked meals: All food is vegetarian, which is better and safer for the digestive system, particularly at altitude. Alert the trekking agency, your guide and host families in advance if you have any food allergies. Dinner is often quite hearty and is either a traditional Tibetan/Ladakhi meal like momos (Tibetan dumplings) or temo (twisted bread dumplings) with daal (lentils) or greens from the garden. All our dinners were made freshly for us and were very tasty. Breakfast, a little less remarkable, usually consists of Indian flat bread (chapatis) with butter and jelly, while lunch is some sort of bread with packaged sliced cheese, hard boiled egg and some snacks.
• Sleeping area: Sleeping in homestays usually consists of mattresses on the ground with lots of blankets piled on top. If you’re trekking in the high season you might need to share your room with other trekkers. For us, we had our own room most nights. Take a sleep sack with you. Sheets looked pretty clean, but it was unclear when the last time blankets were cleaned.
• Toilets: Expect bleak. Outhouses or compost toilets are usually attached to the house or just outside. They do the trick, but don’t expect any luxury here. Bring a headlamp so you don't, um, accidentally slip and fall.
• Common room: Some of the best memories at the homestays come from hanging around drinking tea around the traditional stove in the big common room. The bedroom is for sleeping, but this common room is where you should spend most of your time during a homestay.

What to look for in a Ladakhi trekking agency and guide.

Book a tour in advance or on the ground?

We did not make any bookings or inquiries for treks before arriving in Leh. We figured that we would use the two to three days acclimatizing in Leh (absolutely required if you plan to enjoy your trek) to research all our options and book our trek. Since we traveled in shoulder season, this provided plenty of time to make our arrangements.

If you decide to travel during high season (July-August), you may not have the same flexibility. Consider sending a few email inquiries in advance to be certain that agencies are not already at capacity with their guides and tours.

Update: If you are looking for a trek in Ladakh with social impact and purpose we recommend you check out Global Himalayan Expedition (GHE). We recently met the founder, Paras Loomba, and were impressed by him and the work of this social enterprise. Its mission is to electrify villages through solar energy, and one of the ways it does so is through trekking and travel experiences in Ladakh.

This means that its trekking expeditions not only provide travelers with an incredible trekking experience in Ladakh, but they also provide the opportunity to help bring electricity and solar energy to a remote mountain village. GHE also trains local families in hospitality and helps them set up homestays so that they have additional sources of income and employment that help keep people in these remote, rural areas. This not only preserves these villages, but also the unique culture in them that would otherwise die out with migration to bigger towns and cities.

Choosing a trekking agency in Leh

You will see trekking agents everywhere in Leh. Many of them will have signs outside advertising their treks, as well as notices if they are looking for more people to fill treks with specific departure dates. The idea here is that the more people who trek together and share a guide, the lower the per-person cost should be. We originally hoped to join one of these treks, but the timing didn’t work out with our schedule.

We walked around Leh for an afternoon visiting various agencies asking questions about trek options, costs, departure dates and flexibility to add on stops. Most of the trekking agencies gave us a similar price range so our decision was made based on the feeling we got from the agency (e.g., did the agency feel like a middleman or were they actually responsible for their own guides and tours), their patience, and their flexibility to accommodate special requests.

We chose Ecological Footprint in the end because we liked how the owner, Stanzin, explained all our options and was flexible to work with us to create a trek that met our needs, not just one that fit into a prepackaged box. In addition, Stanzin is Ladakhi and know the community well. All the tours he operates use local people and aim to invest back into the communities. So while the tour was slightly more expensive than what some of the other tour agencies were offering, we felt that the price was worth it for the quality of the experience. We believed that our money was well spent.

We can also highly recommend our guide from Ecological Footprint, Dorjee Tondup. He is young but wise beyond his years and dispenses bits of perspective and peace everywhere he goes. His respectful approach to local people opened doors for us everywhere. His approach to everyone he met served as a lesson for life. He guides on all the major Ladakh trekking routes.

Choosing a guide

Although you may or may not have the option to choose a specific Ladakh trekking guide, we offer a few questions and suggestions to help you find a good match.

Ask to meet the guide before you leave on your trek.

This is something we usually do before any trek to give us peace of mind that we’ll get along well with our guide. We’ve never had to change guides, but if you do think that the guide assigned to you will be problematic then ask for a change. Remember, it’s a long journey. It will be particularly long if you must spend it with someone who rubs you the wrong way. Not to mention, you'll want someone you feel comfortable with and trust in the case that weather or health turn south. We know this firsthand because a guide from another agency who trekked alongside us in Ladakh annoyed absolutely everyone, including his own client. We spent energy trying to avoid him.

Ask for a Ladakhi guide.

During high season in Ladakh, demand for guides is high and so people come from all over India to guide for the summer. We don’t want to discriminate, but we feel that you'll have a better experience with someone who is a Ladakhi guide because of the knowledge of local culture and language. Our trekking companions had an Indian guide, and while he knew the mountain trails, he didn't know the families running the homestays or the Ladakhi language and culture.

Explain any special needs to the guide.

This goes for medical needs, as well as any other idiosyncrasies you might have. For example, we take a lot of photos so we stop a lot on the trail and slow things down. Alerting the guide in advance of this behavior lets the guide know not to worry when it takes us a while to go from point A to B. He can adjust his pace accordingly. One of the women trekking at the same time as us had back issues, so her guide would often carry one of her bags for her when her back ached. The idea: help your guide help you.

Estimated Costs for Markha Valley Trek

The updated price for our Markha Valley Trek (6 nights/7 days) including a guide, accommodation (homestay), food and transport to/from the trek is around 20,000 rupees per person. This also included a stop at Hemis Monastery on the way back to Leh. (Not all trekking agencies offer this, so ask about it. We really enjoyed the additional stop on the return and recommend it.)

This was slightly cheaper than some of the other trekking agencies while others offered bare bone prices at 1,600-2,000 rupees per person per day. Understand that you typically get what you pay for.

Homestay costs on Markha Valley Trek (Updated 2019)

If you do decide to do the Markha Valley Trek independently, find out in Leh what the official rate is for homestays that year. The official rate is a standard amount set every year by the homestay association so that the families all charge the same amount and don’t try to underbid each other (thereby causing tensions in the community).

Updated homestay prices, July 2019: The the standard Markha Valley homestay rate is 1,200 Rs ($17.50) per night per person. This includes dinner, breakfast and a packed lunch. A tent at Nimiling is 1,400 Rs ($20.50).

When to Trek in Ladakh?

The trekking season in Ladakh really begins to take off early-to-mid June and runs until September. The high season is July and August with August being the busiest month. Rains usually start late August to September. If you can time it, we recommend going early in the shoulder season in June. Note that weather is always the wild card, however.

Our trek was mid-June and there was hardly anyone (6 people) along our entire Markha Valley route. This meant that the homestays were not crowded and there were no traffic jams on the paths. We experienced a surprise snowstorm on our second morning at the first pass, but that just added to the excitement and meant that all the mountains around us sported a beautiful covering of snow.

Acclimatization and Accommodation in Leh before Trekking

No matter which trek you choose, be sure to spend at least two days acclimatizing in Leh (or wherever the setting off point of your Ladakh trek happens to be). Take a walk through the old town up to Leh Palace and Namgyal Tsemo Gompa. This helps get the blood pumping and the legs moving. It also gives you some experience climbing hills at altitude.

If you are susceptible to altitude sickness, consider taking even more time to acclimatize in Leh. Your hike will be more enjoyable and successful for it.

As for where to stay in Leh, there are a lot of guesthouses and hotels for every budget. You can search here to see which hotels are available during your visit and compare prices.

The owner of Ecological Footprints, the trekking agency we used, has recently opened up a guesthouse called EcoResidency. We haven't stayed there yet, but it looks quite nice and quiet.

Food recommendations in Leh

Summer Harvest: Best momos in town. We feel confident in this statement as we sampled momos in four different restaurants and kitchens in town. Be sure to ask for the homemade hot sauce. We never ventured beyond momos (they were that good), but other dishes emerging from the kitchen looked tasty as well.

German bakeries: Don’t ask me why, but Leh is bursting with German bakeries. They don’t all have their own ovens, so it seems like they get their baked goods from a central German bakery source. If you’re craving a cinnamon roll or some quasi European pastries, stop by one of these and enjoy with a chai. Quality is mixed, but when you consider how remote you are, you'll be grateful.

Lassi guy: In the alleyway just to the right of the mosque on Leh Bazaar is a tiny place with this friendly guy making and selling yogurt and paneer (Indian cheese). For a few rupees he’ll create a fresh sweet or salty lassi for you and invite you in to enjoy a seat while he explains how he makes it all. Highly recommended.

Monasteries and Other Sites in Ladakh

On our return journey from Leh to Srinigar we hired a driver from Leh to take us to visit a few monasteries on the way to Lamayuru, where we dropped us off and then picked up in the evening (pre-arranged) by a driver/shared jeep en route to Srinigar for the overnight drive.

Update: There is now an online shared taxi service in Ladakh to find other travelers going to the same monasteries, villages or trailheads. This not only shares the cost of the taxi or jeep, but more people in the same vehicle also reduces the carbon footprint of your travel and makes it more environmentally sound.

Likir Monastery

While traveling, we often find ourselves focused on the present. This is a good thing. Then, something helps us appreciate the history, the roots of where we happen to be. This too, is useful because it provides perspective.

Likir Buddhist Monastery in Ladakh, at almost 1,000 years old, is one of those places.

For much of our visit to Likir Monastery we were alone, save a sole monk who tidied up and made sure visitors took their shoes off before entering the temples. We enjoyed it all in peace and found ourselves stepping back, literally and figuratively, just trying to imagine how monks had gathered in those spaces for centuries — chanting, meditating, praying.

Alchi Monastery

Built in the 10th to 11th century, Alchi Monastery is made up of three major shrines. It's located not far from Leh, so it's an easy to visit on a day trip or en route to Lamayuru (like we did).

Lamayuru Monastery

Lamayuru is one of the small towns in Ladakh, named after the famous Lamayuru Monastery perched high above the town. It's a nice walk up to the monastery with a view of the town below, interesting chortens in this high desert landscape, and intimate temples.

Transport: How to get to Ladakh

Unless you have your own set of wheels (or wings) there are three main routes to get to and from Ladakh.

By Bus or Shared Taxi to Leh:

Taking the public or regular bus is the cheapest option and certainly delivers an experience, but it is often the slowest option. To book a shared taxi or jeep to/from Ladakh consider using this newly developed Ladakh shared taxi booking system to help you find other travelers to share the cost and space. This not only saves you money, but with more people in each jeep it also reduces the environmental footprint.

Srinigar to Leh: You have the option to take a two-day “Super Deluxe” bus (overnight in Kargil) or a 12-hour shared ride in a private jeep (with 6 other passengers). Both leave from the same area in Srinagar. Please note that the roads are only open for a short period each year, usually from May – September.

We flew from Mumbai to Srinagar and then took the bus up to Leh and a shared jeep for the return leg to Srinagar. If you have more time, consider taking the train from wherever you are in India to Jammu and pepper in a few strategic visits and stops along the way to Srinagar.

There are, of course, advantages and disadvantages to the bus and jeep. While the bus ride from Srinagar to Leh is long and not particularly comfortable, you are able to take a lot of photos out the window, as the pace is glacial, snail-like for much of the way. It's also an experience to travel with locals (e.g., Buddhist monks hopping on and off) and fellow adventurous travelers. Suggestion: try not to focus on the missing guardrails along the way. A dose of fatalism may also help.

Bus and Shared Jeep Costs from Srinagar to Leh (Updated 2019): Bus tickets = 1,399 Rs/person. Jeep price depends on your negotiation skills, but usually costs between 2,300-2,700 Rs/person depending upon which seat you have (i.e., back seats are cheaper).

Manali to Leh: This route from the south also features the option of a 2-day bus trip vs. 16-20 hours in a shared jeep. We didn’t take this route so can’t speak to it firsthand, but we met several people who did. The roads seem to be in worse shape than the Srinagar route, but you go over four large mountain passes which are supposed to be stunning. If you’re coming from Delhi, this is the more direct route. The roads are usually open for a few months of the year, again from June – September.

Bus and Shared Jeep Costs from Manali to Leh (Updated 2019): Bus tickets = from 900 Rs/person for the standard HRTC bus to 2,700 Rs/person for the more comfortable Volvo Bus. Jeep price between 3,700 – 4,100 Rs/person depending upon which seat you have (i.e., back seats are cheaper).

Update: We have heard that recent road improvements have shortened the length of this journey and have made it more safe.

By Plane to Ladakh

Flying into Leh is certainly more expedient, but you'll miss the beauty and adventure of the roads. The views from the skies in the mountains are supposed to pretty spectacular, however. Be sure to leave buffer days in your travel schedule if you fly as flights are frequently canceled due to bad weather.

Most planes fly from either Delhi, Srinagar and Mumbai (new in 2016). Try to book your tickets early as prices go up very quickly. Begin your flight search with Skyscanner as it includes all low-cost airlines in its listings.

Ladakh Trekking Packing List

Much of what we include in our How to Pack for a Trek article applies to trekking in Ladakh. However, we offer a customized Markha Valley trek packing list to ensure you have all you need to enjoy the mountains yet don’t overpack.

Since we chose the Markha Valley trek with homestays this meant that we didn't need to worry about tents, sleeping gear or food. We carried our own gear (mostly clothes) in a small backpack. The goal is to be sure you have all the layers you need to be comfortable in Ladakh's varied weather, but to not carry too much so as to struggle with your backpack's weight on the high mountain passes.

If you are doing another trek in Ladakh that includes camping instead of homestays then you'll need to bring (or rent) sleeping bags, sleeping mats, and other camping gear.

Trekking Backpack

Recommended women's backpack: Deuter ACT Trail Pro 32 SL Backpack – Very light and comfortable to carry. Includes all sorts of great functionality like a built-in rain cover, water bladder compatibility, wide waist belt for stability, and more. Love this backpack. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI (28-liter)

Recommended men's hiking backpack: Osprey Packs Exos 38 Backpack – This backpack comes in several sizes, and the Large version is well-suited for tall people. Light, comfortable, and durable. The walking stick holder is a little janky, but the rest of the backpack is well-designed. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI (48-liter)

Trekking Clothes and Shoes

You don’t need a lot of different clothes. Don’t worry about wearing the same thing every day. Everyone does it. It's more about having the proper layers since temperatures may rise and fall dramatically between day and night as Ladakh is a high desert. Here are the trekking clothes we suggest for a Ladakh trek.

• 1 set of hiking clothes: T-shirt (preferably quick dry), long-sleeved hiking shirt (his and hers)) or pullover, shorts or trekking pants, hiking socks.
• 1 set of sleeping clothes: T-shirt, pajama bottoms (or yoga pants), socks. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside your backpack.
• Ski hat and gloves: This may not be necessary later in the season, but by early to mid-June we were very thankful to have these as we were stuck in a snowstorm on our 2nd day.
• Hat and sunglasses: The sun's rays are exceptionally powerful at this altitude and you'll find yourself especially exposed when there isn't a cloud in the sky. Be sure to wear a hat at all times to protect your face and sunglasses to protect your eyes.
• Hiking shoes: Low-rise hiking shoes are fine, but if you have weak ankles consider bringing full support shoes. We both recently shifted to wearing Oboz Sawtooth hiking boots. The insoles and support for your feet are really good, and the shoes are sturdy and can stand up to some tough terrain. In addition, Oboz plants a tree for every pair of shoes sold so you can feel good that your purchase is going towards reforestation and environmental projects.Men's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon. Women's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon
• Extra t-shirt: Just in case.
• Underwear for every day of your trek: With an extra pair thrown in for good measure, if you like. Recommended his and hers
• Extra pair of socks: Just in case you want to switch out or it's freezing and you need an extra layer to stay warm in your sleeping bag.
• Fleece or other shell jacket: For cool nights or sleeping.
• Rain jacket (optional): Just in case it rains. We used ours as an extra layer to stay warm at night. I recently upgraded to a NorthFace Climatech technology waterproof jacket and I love it. It not only provided protection against the rain and cold, but the jacket material is very breathable so it didn't feel like a sauna inside when trekking in it. Highly recommended. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon.
• Thermal underwear (top/bottom): If you're trekking either early or late in the season, consider bringing along some silk long johns as they are warm, comfy and take up almost no room at all.
• River shoes or flip flops: At the end of a long day of walking you may want to take off your hiking shoes and give your feet a rest. But you'll still need something on your feet to go to and from the outhouse or nearest bush. That's where flip flops or river shoes worn with socks (yes, ignore the fashion police) are perfect.Buy on Amazon (Women's) | Men's River Shoes

Other Recommended Trekking Gear

• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand.
• Camera bag: If you are carrying a separate DSLR or mirrorless camera I suggest a camera bag that you can wear on your waist so that your trekking backpack rests on top. I really like the ThinkTank Sling Camera Bag which fits a mirrorless camera body and two lenses. It is comfortable for hiking as it sits right on my hips and I can still wear a backpack or daypack that rests on top of it.
• Reusable water bottle: We carry a reusable liter water bottle on us and refill along the way. A CamelBak water bladder in the backpack also works really well. Homestays (and some tea houses) will be able to provide you with purified water so just refill your bottle each time you have access to clean water. Even if the trek does sell bottled water, please don't purchase it. Plastic bottle waste is an enormous problem at elevation and in villages that have no options for garbage disposal.
• Water Purification: Although the homestays will provide you with clean water it's good to carry some purification or sterilization drops in case you need additional water from
  a mountain stream or non-purified village tap.
• Walking stick: Highly recommended, especially for downhill sections to help with balance and to take some of the pressure off your joints. Two walking sticks or one, you ask? That's a personal preference. We usually share a walking stick set of two so each of us uses one stick.
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off your hands or face.
• Sleep sack: To provide a clean layer between you and blankets provided at the homestays.
• Headlamp: Some of the homestays do not have electricity or lights. Carry your own headlamp to find your way to the outhouse or to sort through your stuff at night.

Toiletries and Health Kit

• Soap, toothbrush, toothpaste, dental floss: You know, the basics. And don't laugh at us that we put dental floss as a basic.
• Sunscreen: The higher the SPF of the sunscreen, the better. The sun is very powerful at this high altitude.
• Sunglasses: Necessary. That sun is darn strong.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side.
• Pack of tissues or roll of toilet paper: Always a good idea to carry your own, just in case.
• Blister care: Duct tape is remarkably effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet if you address them when you first feel them. Compeed is magic when you already have blisters as it essentially covers your blisters with a protective later which allows them to heal below.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration packets, ciprofloxacin/azithromycin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea). Note: All this can be easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Leh.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

Although some homestays may have solar energy that you can use to charge your smartphone it's best to be prepared in case you don't have any access to electricity during your trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode. There is no connectivity along the trek anyhow, so don't waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. Here’s an example for our iPhone X battery case. Alternatively, you could carry a Mophie charger. They all provide another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spend time reviewing your images on your phone or in the camera viewfinder, as this will quickly consume battery power. Unless you are reviewing images to determine whether you’ve captured a specific shot, there will be time enough for photo review when your trek is finished.
• Solar-Powered Energy Bank: If you really are concerned about charging your phone and gear along the way, consider bringing a solar powered power bank.

Still have questions about Ladakh and trekking there? Ask away in the comments below!

Update: You can now buy the Ladakh Trekking: A Beginner’s Guide with all the information from this site plus extra details and other goodies (like packing and other preparation) in an easy ebook that you can download and take with you.

The post Ladakh Trekking: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Uncornered Market.

This is trekking in the Alay Mountains of southern Kyrgyzstan.

The Alay Mountains (or what some also referred to as the Alay Valley) are a sub-range of the towering Pamir-Alay Mountain system which sit in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan north of the Hindu Kush and Himalayas. Trekking experiences run from the day hike variety where you can experience some of the area’s alpine lakes, snow-covered peak panoramas and cultural highlights in a single day to varied multi-day treks that deliver otherworldly views, remoteness and some of the most worthwhile trekking Kyrgyzstan has to offer.

And, you'll likely have the trails all to yourself as this mountain region is still a relatively unknown.

Prior to our visit where we helped mark new trekking trails in the area, we didn’t know much of the Alay trekking corridor. After our experience, we are fan-evangelists.

This article explains why and how to easily organize and do Alay Mountain day hikes and the multi-day treks.

Update September 2019:: We returned to the Alay Region in August 2019 on a tourism development project to test other existing and emerging treks in both the Alay Mountains and Pamir Mountains. This article has been updated accordingly with even more trekking options and details.

Note: French speakers, you can now find a French translation of this Alay Trekking Guide here!

Note: There's a battle between transliterated spellings of what we call Sary Mogul (town and pass). You might see it elsewhere also as Sary Mogol, and also Sary Moghul. Sorry (ahem) for any confusion.

Choosing a Trek in the Alay Mountains

There are many different trekking choices in the Alay Mountain sub-range in southern Kyrgyzstan, but you really can't go wrong no matter what you choose.

Your choice of trek will depend on how many days you have, how remote you'd like to be, the difficulty and altitude level you seek, and how much culture or interaction with local people you want. Whether your trek is the main reason for your journey to southern Kyrgyzstan or if you are interested in incorporating a trek as part of your journey along the Pamir Highway to/from Tajikistan, there are endless variations of treks you can take in the Alay Mountains ranging from one-day hikes to 6-10 day treks.

Some of the more popular treks in the Alay Mountains and Alay Valley include:

• Best of Alay Mountains (8 days): This is essentially the two multi-day treks we did combined into one. We outline it below in detail. Highly recommended. Stunning landscapes and views. During our first visit, we were only able to do the shorter version from Sary Mogul to Kojokelen village. During our second visit we completed the trek, which includes crossing Jiptick Pass back to Sary Mogul, up to Tulpar Kol Lake yurt camp and then a hike to Traveller's Pass with beautiful views of Lenin Peak and the other-worldly mountain landscapes. Note: If you don't have as much time, you can do a shorter version with the Heights of Alay Trek (5 days) or Heights of Alay Valley Trek (6 days). The difference is that your trek ends in Sary Mogul.
• Lenin Peak Base Camp to Traveler’s Pass Trek and Yuhina Peak: Although this trek is technically in the Pamir Mountains and not the Alay Mountains, we include it here since it's a pretty incredible high altitude hike. It begins at the yurt camp at Tulpar-Kol lake near Lenin Peak Base Camp and goes up to Traveler's Pass (4,130 meters). While most people turn around and go down again, this trek continues on from Traveler’s Pass to overnight at Camp 1 (4,400 meters/14,435 ft). The next morning”s hike goes up to Yuhina Peak (5,100 meters/16,730 feet) for more stunning views. After lunch at Camp 1 return the same way to Tulpar-Kol yurt camp for the night before returning to Sary Mogul. Transport is required from Sary Mogul to Tulpar-Kol Lake and back again. This is part of the Lenin Peak Base Camp Trek (8 days) that also includes Sary Mogul and Jiptick passes mentioned above. See below for more details and photos.
• Koshkol Lakes Trek (1 day): A fabulous one-day trek we did from Sary Mogul. This trek takes you from a local shepherd yurt camp through a valley filled with yaks, over several passes to the height of 4,195 meters where you'll have views of four alpine lakes, glaciers, and the Pamir Mountains in the distance. More details below. View the GPS tracks here.
• Scenic Ak-Tor Pass Trek (2-5 days): This trek in the lower Alay Mountains has several different options and lengths, from two to five days and either on foot or on horse. We did the three-day version on foot (25 miles/40 km) and were pleasantly surprised by the change in landscapes, from layers of hills to green valleys filled with grazing animals to impressive granite peaks. The highlight is crossing Ak-Tor Pass at 3,500 meters/11,500 feet, and the sweeping and deep panoramic views of the Alay Mountain range. We also recommended this trek as an acclimatization trek if you plan to go into the high Alay or Pamir mountains. The trailhead is not far from Gulcha and about an hour outside of Osh. See the day by day detail below.
• Truly Nomadic Lands (5 days): A challenging trek — either by horse or on foot — that not only features magnificent mountain panoramas, but also Kyrgyzstan's nomadic culture as there are many shepherd yurt camps along this trail. The start of this trail is about an hour from Osh. View the GPS tracks here.
• Ak-Bosogo — Sary-Mogul Trek (1 day): Starting just off the Pamir Highway, this day hike takes you through jailoos (high summer pastures) until you reach Algachart Pass, where you can enjoy views of the Pamir-Alay Mountains. Transport required. View the GPS tracks here.
• Treks in Kyrgyz-Ata National Park: This is a good option for those who still want to do a bit of trekking and experience the Alay Mountains, but don't want to go far from Osh city. After a day trek it's possible to return to Osh the same day or to spend the night at one of the local yurt camps.

You can find a comprehensive list of trekking options for the Alay Mountains and valleys here.

Best of Alay Trek: What to Expect on a Multi-Day Trek in the High Alay Mountains

This trek is one of the favorite we've done over the last few years. At 8 days with Best of Alay or even at the shorter 5-6 day Heights of Alay Trek, this hiking route packs an experiential punch. Each day takes you through different landscapes, over mountain passes and includes interactions with local shepherds and villagers. However, the first day's cross of Sary Mogul Pass really stands out; you'll feel as if you've landed on a different planet.

2019 Update: The Best of Alay / Heights of Alay Trek is now fully connected by family yurt camps or guesthouses. This means more engagement with local people and no need to carry tents and camping equipment.

Note: The Best of Alay Trek and full Heights of Alay Trek is 5 nights/6 days (87 km), takes you over Jiptick Pass and ends in Sary Mogul village. During our first visit we did an abbreviated version that ends in Kojokelen village. On our second visit we picked up the trail from Kojokelen village over Jiptick Pass (4,185 meters/13,730 feet) with stunning views of the snow-covered Pamir Mountains and Peak Lenin. If you have the time we'd recommend doing the full trek. However, if you only have four days then we recommend doing the first part of the trek over Sary Mogul Pass to Kojokelen village.

Our Route: Sary Mogul Village – Beshkol Lakes – Sary Mogul Pass – Kyzylshoro village – Koshmoinok Pass – Koshmoinok Valley – Sarybell Pass – Kojokelen village
Total Hiking Distance: 48 km / 30 miles
Number of Days: 5 nights/6 days (if you do the shorter version of the trek you’ll transfer to Osh at the end of day 3 or on day 4)
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 2,186 m (7,170 feet) / 4,303 m (14,120 feet)
Season: mid/late June – early September
Difficulty: Medium

Day 1: Sary Mogul Village – Beshkol Lakes – Sary Mogul Pass – Campsite

Hiking Distance: 14 km / 8.7 miles
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 3,369 m (11,050 feet) / 4,303 m (14,120 feet)
Number of hours hiking: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Medium

We don't want to oversell the views and experience on this day, but if the weather is clear it will certainly be memorable. You cover a lot of ground and elevation (up to 4,303 meters), but it's a relatively steady incline so you don't feel completely exhausted by day's end.

The starting point of the trek is around 15 km northeast of Sary Mogul village. You'll need to arrange a transfer in advance to take you there in the morning. From there, follow the shepherd paths towards the stream and up the valley. After a while there's a short stretch where the trail is narrow, difficult to see, and the terrain is composed mainly of scree and small pebbles. It's a bit challenging already when it's dry, so we suggest not to attempt this approach in the rain or when the trail is wet.

Within a couple of hours you'll cross a small pass and leave the river valley behind you. Before you do, be sure to look back for great views of Peak Lenin and the Pamir Mountains behind you. You'll then descend into a second river valley with rocky and high desert terrain.

Follow the stream through the valley. Eventually the path will take you over the hills and into another river valley, this one even greener and more lush than the previous one. This is a good spot for a snack or lunch as there is a good water source, protection from wind, and glacier views.

Then comes the big ascent towards Sary Mogul Pass. As you climb higher, the landscape opens; peaks, glaciers and alpine lakes begin to appear. Soak in the views around you and of the Pamir Mountains in the distance before making the final push up a steep volcanic rock- and scree-covered incline.

Once you reach Sary Mogul Pass at 4,303 meters / 14,120 feet, the highest point of this trek, take some time to enjoy your accomplishment and climb all over the rocks. The views from up here of the expansive peak, glacier and alpine lake are incredible and otherworldly.

From there, it's a steep descent through scree to the campsite/yurt camp located below (39°52'37.97”N 72°48'11.45”E) near the stream. Bundle up, as it can turn especially cold here at night given the elevation (3,900 meters / 12,800 feet). Update: There is now a family yurt camp available for trekkers to stay at the base of the pass so there’s no longer any need to carry tents, food or other camping gear.

Day 2: Campsite/Yurt Camp – Kyzyl Shoro village

Update 2019: The trek now overnights in Kyzyl Shoro vs. continuing over Koshmoinok Pass and Valley as we originally did. The details have been updated accordingly.
Hiking Distance: 10 km / 6 miles
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 2,387 m (7,830 feet)
Number of hours hiking: 4-5 hours

The start of the second day is relatively easy going and mainly downhill towards little Sary Mogul and Kyzylshoro villages.

From the campsite/yurt camp, follow the trail through the valley and along the river. With the decline in elevation, the terrain begins to change from high alpine rocky and sparse to mid-mountain green dotted with the alpine lush of juniper bushes. You'll have views of the surrounding glaciers and snow-covered peaks above and behind you.

The trail rises a bit and continues through the hills, staying parallel to the river, until it reaches the farmlands of the nearby village, Little Sary Mogul. When we did our trek at the end of August it was hay-making season, so many in the village were out in the fields cutting the long grass in preparation for the winter season ahead.

As you continue through Little Sary Mogul village, don't be surprised if you receive some invitations for tea along the way — including from a friendly grandfather, as we did. The next stretch is perhaps the least pleasant of the journey, as it winds along a dusty road shared with cars and trucks. You'll pass another small village of Kyzyl Shoro where you can pick up additional food supplies at the guest house in town. Update: The trek now overnights here in Kyzyl Shoro village at a guesthouse.

Day 3: Kyzyl Shoro Village – Koshmoinok valley – Sarybell Pass – Kojokelen village

Hiking Distance: 25 km / 16 miles
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 2,223 m (7,293 feet) / 3,415 m (11,205 feet)
Estimated number of hours: 8-9 hours
Although this is a long day of hiking, we were pleasantly surprised by the diversity of landscapes, geographic formations and colors. We jokingly called sections of it “The Best of Kyrgyzstan” as it was possible to see large red rock formations just along the trail, jagged snow-covered Pamir Mountain peaks in the distance, and the variegated array of high-, mid- and low alpine landscape across your field of view.

As you leave Kyzyl Shoro village you’ll leave the road behind and follow the trail as goes towards the right up a dry river bed and past several outlying homes and farms. People here are quite friendly so don’t be surprised if you’re invited for tea along the way.

With the village and outlying homes behind you, the trail becomes very steep and ascends approximately 860 meters (2,820 feet) through grass meadows and pastures to Koshmoinok Pass (3,415 m / 11,205 feet). Remember to keep looking behind you. The views open up as you ascend.

After the pass, it's about a 45-minute descent to Koshmoinok Valley which is a beautiful setting and features layers of mountains on all sides. It’s worth taking a break here to enjoy the surroundings.

The day begins by following the river from the campsite with a moderate climb to Sarybell Pass (3,124 meters / 10,250 feet). From there, enjoy a beautiful view of the different layers, colors and landscape features of the Alay Mountains. From the top of the pass, continue left and follow the path as it winds along the edge of the hills with the valley to the right. Segments of this trail are steep and challenging due to scree and loose rocks.

Don’t forget to look down and across to your right as you enjoy the expanse of unusual red rock formations below, including a geological formation-feature we named “Three Dragon Gorge.”

The trail eventually reaches another grassy overlook where there are two options to Kojokelen village – straight and downhill or following the trail towards the left. Although the latter option is longer, we recommend it as it is less steep and the trail takes you around a valley filled with even more colorful and dramatic rock formations, from deep red to frost white and all natural shades in between.

The trail changes from scree and rock to a dirt path which cuts across and down into green fields and pastures. At this point, it’s best to use GPS markings or a map, as the trail can be difficult to find because of overgrown tall grass and brush. Eventually, you descend into Kojokelen village, passing a sacred cave and spring and crossing a bridge on the right hand side.

Once you reach Kojokelen village, you’ll have the option to eat dinner at a local guest house (we had a hearty meal at Mamatjakyp Guesthouse), take a hot shower and spend the night. Note: If you are doing the shortened version of the trek as we originally did, you can arrange a transfer to Osh (3-4 hours) that afternoon. Most trekkers, however, choose to spend the night in one of several guest houses in Kojokelen village to allow time to relax from the trek, take a hot shower, and return to Osh the next day.

Day 4: Kojokelen village – Yurt Camp

Hiking Distance: 10 km / 6.7 miles
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 2,223 m (7,293 feet) / 3,048 m (11,205 feet)
Estimated number of hours: 3-4 hours

This is an easy day. Sleep in a bit to recover from the previous day’s long hike and take your time getting going in the morning. From the village, follow the dirt road on a relatively straight and steady trail with a gradual incline.

You’ll pass by herds of yaks, some of them cooling off in the streams. Shepherds tending their animals ride by on horses or donkeys. We also met several families fishing and spending time in the hills. Don’t be surprised if you are invited over for tea and bread as locals are curious and friendly.

After a few hours you’ll arrive at the family yurt camp where you’ll be greeted with tea, borsok (fried bread), and other sweets. Eat and rest well as the next day is more challenging.

Day 5: Yurt Camp – Jiptick Pass – Darbazatash Valley Yurt Camp

Hiking Distance: 16 km / 10 miles
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 2,962 m (9,718 feet) / 4,185 m (13,370 feet)
Estimated number of hours: 6-7 hours

It’s good to get an early start, not only because this is a relatively long day over Jiptick Pass, but also because the mountain views are clearer and more crisp in the morning light. Take it nice and slow as this will help you better adjust to altitude and give you adequate time to enjoy the views around you.

From the yurt camp, follow the dirt road and trail up and around over several hills and valleys. The terrain will transform into high desert, switching from grass to volcanic scree and rocks. Continue to follow the trail up the dark scree to Jiptick Pass.

At the top of Jiptick Pass take in the views of the snow-covered Pamir Mountains as they open in front of you. They appear like floating clouds above the high pastures and valleys below. Take a well-deserved lunch break here before starting your descent.

The descent is a bit tedious and requires caution. It’s steep and composed mainly of loose scree. Be careful with your footing to avoid slips, ankle twists or a fall (trekking poles are highly recommended). The trail eventually evens out to where you follow shepherds’ paths across the high pastures where they take their horses, cows, yaks and sheep.

After a couple of hours you’ll arrive at the yurt camp located near a mountain stream. Consider soaking your feet in the frigid water for a minute or two to soothe them after the steep ascent and descent you just endured. We enjoyed a lazy afternoon at the yurt camp, lounging in the sunshine and playing games with one of the daughters.

Day 6: Darbazatash Valley Yurt Camp – Sary Mogul Village

Hiking Distance: 12 km / 7.5 miles
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 2,962 m (9,718 feet) / 3,245 m (10,648 feet)
Estimated number of hours: 3-4 hours

This is another relatively easy day as you’re essentially walking out of the Alay Mountains towards Sary Mogul village. Along the way you’ll pass several other yurt camps and families with their animals.

Closer to Sary Mogul you’ll pass a huge coal mine, and a bunch of industrial trucks and machinery. Although the scene isn't particularly pretty, the coal mine does serve as an important source of employment and income in the area. In a high desert environment, there aren’t a lot of agricultural or income-generating options.

Continue along the road until you reach Sary Mogul village. From there you can spend the night at a local guest house, get transport back to Osh, or continue trekking in the Pamir Mountains as we did, via a transfer to Tulpar-Kol Lake (see below).

Optional Add-On: 2-3 days trek in the Pamir Mountains to Traveler’s Pass and Yuhina Peak

If you haven’t had your fill of the high mountain adventures, you can continue trekking for another 2-3 days into the Pamir Mountains on the new Visit Alay Best of Alay Trek. We did the full 2-day version all the way to Lenin Peak Camp 1 and Yuhina Peak (5,100 meters/16,730 feet) which is now part of the Visit Alay Lenin Peak Base Camp Trek (8 days). You can also reduce this to a day hike to Traveler’s Pass.

After arriving in Sary Mogul from the Heights of Alay Trek, you transfer to Tulpar-Kol Lake and spend the night at the yurt camp there. The next day, hike out to Traveler’s Pass (4,100 meters / 13,450 feet) for a phenomenal panoramic view of the Pamir Mountains and Lenin Peak (7,134 meters/23,405 feet). Be sure to go down to the grassy area below the pass as this features the best views. For the one-day trek (19km / 12 miles) you return back to Tulpar-Kol yurt camp for the night.

For those doing a two-day trek, continue on the trail another 4-5 miles/7-8 km to Peak Lenin Camp 1 for a total of 9.5 miles (15.3 km) on day 1. The narrow trail takes you through some high altitude multi-colored valleys that look like a watercolor painting and past layers of glaciers with snow-covered peaks all around you. This landscape is otherworldly, too — but different from the ones you see along the Alay Mountain treks.

Peak Lenin Camp 1 (4,400 meters/14,435 fee) is quite basic, but you’ll be provided tents (2-person) and hot meals. It's also an interesting view into the world of professional and serious alpinism and mountaineering. Most of the people staying here are en route to climb Peak Lenin (7,134 meters/23,405 feet). Try to get a good night’s sleep since the next day is a challenging and long one.

Wake up early (you may need to arrange an early breakfast time with the camp) and begin your ascent to the top of Yuhina Peak. It’s a slow climb up scree and switchbacks. And it’s very challenging. If you go very slowly and steadily you will indeed get to the top. And you will be rewarded there with some incredible views of the Pamir Mountains.

Be careful on the way down as the scree is soft, loose and steep. Take a break at Camp 1 to enjoy lunch. Continue the same way over Traveler’s Pass to Tulpar-Kol Lake yurt camp. You can spend a night there to recover or take a transfer to Sary Mogul to overnight there.

Note: Several trekking agencies from Bishkek run Lenin Peak Base Camps, as well as camps at higher elevations. Our two-day Pamir Mountains trek was arranged and all our accommodation was booked by Visit Alay in Osh. We stayed at Ak-Sai Camp 1 and found it well-run, clean and professional. It’s geared more towards professional climbers than day-trekkers so it has a bit of a hearty mountaineering atmosphere, complete with sun struck alpinists and gruffly-spoken Russian.

Costs for the Best of Alay Trek and other Treks

Our 8-day trek was a fully supported trek, which meant that all we needed to think about was our experience, carrying a simple backpack with clothes, and taking photos. We had local guides with us to ensure we didn't get lost; they also carried snacks and lunch items for us. They shared their knowledge of the Pamir-Alay Mountains, and of their lives and local culture. We were also well-fed from breakfast to dinner. (Disclosure: The costs of our 2017 trek were paid for by the USAID BGI tourism development project in conjunction with the consulting work we did and its trail-marking project. Our August 2019 trek was provided to us by Visit Alay as part of the Helvetas Bai Alai tourism development project.)

Our trek and local guides were organized by Visit Alay, the local CBT Kyrgyzstan branch in Osh. A portion of their profits goes back into community development and training of families in tourism and hospitality. Currently they are working with around 300 people in the Alay Region to provide travel services, accommodation, guiding and more.

2025 Prices for the Best of Alay Trek

The price of the trek depends upon the group size with 2 people recommended as a minimum group. The larger the group size, the less expensive it is as more people share the costs of transportation, guiding and other expenses. If you want to join an existing group to meet new people and reduce your costs, check out the Visit Alay small group trekking tours.

• Best of Alay Trek (8 days): $750 (2-5 people) – $650 (6-10 people)

Prices include: local guide, bed and breakfast (yurt or guest house), lunches and dinners, clean water and tea, transport from Osh and to/from trailheads. The price includes luggage carriage (usually by horse), but check the individual tour details to be sure.

Prices do not include: sleeping bag rental ($6/day), overnight stay in Sary Mogul village before/after trek, any special drinks outside of water and tea/coffee, which are provided.

Transport costs if trekking independently: Osh to Sary Mogul in shared taxi: approximately 400 som/person; Sary Mogul to trailhead: 1,500 som; Kojokelen to Osh: 3,000-3,500 som.

Scenic Ak-Tor Pass Trek: What to Expect on a Multi-Day Trek in the Lower Alay Mountains

We were introduced to the lower Alay Mountains during our visit in August 2019. Having been overwhelmed by other treks at higher altitude, we didn’t have high expectations for this trek. However, we proven wrong. We were surprised and impressed by this trek and its layers of hills, green valleys, granite peaks, and stunning viewpoints. The trailhead is located near Gulcha and about an hour outside of Osh so it’s a bit closer and more accessible than some of the other treks.

Although Visit Alay's Ak Tor Pass Trek is technically in the “lower” part of the Alay Mountain range (its northern side), it's still plenty high, crossing Ak-Tor Pass at 3,500+ meters/11,500+ feet. You still get a good trekking challenge and some really beautiful views of the entire Alay Mountain range. If you don’t have much experience trekking at altitude and want to do one of the high Alay or Pamir treks, this makes for an excellent and worthwhile acclimatization hike. You still get up to impressive altitudes during the day, but are sleeping at lower altitudes at night. Perfect for helping your body acclimatize and become accustomed to altitude.

You have the option of a range of treks in the area, running from two to five days — either by foot or on horseback. We did a three-day trek by foot, but we could see it being pleasant by horseback as the terrain features more rolling hills and fewer steep ascents than the terrain in the High Alay. The trails in the Low Alay also remain accessible for longer periods of time. You could even do this trek in late April/early May or in late September/early October when most of the other treks are closed because of snow.

Our Route: Trailhead near Gulcha – Sary-Oi Yurt Camp – Ak-Tor Yurt Camp – Ak-Tor Pass – Murdash Valley
Total Hiking Distance: 23 miles / 37 km
Number of Days: 2 nights/3 days (you can also do a 2-day trek or extend up to 5 days)
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 2,195 m (7,200 feet) / 3,550 m (14,120 feet)
Season: June – early September
Difficulty: Easy-Medium

Day 1: Trailhead – Sary-Oi Yurt Camp

Hiking Distance: 13.75 km / 8.5 miles
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 2,275 m (7,466 feet) / 3,580 m (11,744 feet)
Estimated number of hours: 4-5 hours

The walk begins in a the high pastures and passes by several shepherds and their animals on the hills around. As you begin to climb up take a look around an enjoy the a panoramic view of the valleys below. From this point, begins another ascent during which you'll cross a couple of mini-passes before you arrive at the main pass. At the very top you’ll enjoy a beautiful view in both directions — of the area you just came from and of the hills and valleys where you're headed.

Then begins the long walk down through and around various hills and fields. We didn’t expect it to be such a long way down. Expect a trail which seems to keep going and going. Eventually you will arrive at the yurt camp in Sary-Oi and be greeted with tea, snacks and a comfortable place to rest inside the yurt.

Day 2: Sary-Oi Yurt Camp – Yurt Camp at Base of Ak-Tor Pass

Hiking Distance: 10 km / 6 miles
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 2,195 m (7,200 feet) / 2,700 m (8,868 feet)
Estimated number of hours: 4 hours

This is an easy day so sleep in and enjoy a leisurely breakfast. The only thing to consider is that it often rains in mid-late afternoon where the next yurt camp is located so try to time your arrival early enough to avoid getting wet (something we didn’t manage to do).

Follow the mountain stream through the valley to the next yurt camp. This is a popular place for animals to graze as its fertile and rich. You’ll meet more than a few cows along the trail. There are a couple of stream crossings that you’ll need to navigate. We’ve heard that small bridges should be built by the 2020 season to make these crossings easier. You’ll arrive at the next yurt camp in time to enjoy a leisurely afternoon of rest or reading.

Day 3: Yurt Camp – Ak-Tor Pass – Murdash Valley

Hiking Distance: 13 km / 8 miles
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 2,195 m (7,200 feet) / 3,580 m (11,744 feet)
Estimated number of hours: 4 hours

Eat a hearty breakfast as you begin this day with the ascent up Ak-Tor Pass. It’s not exceptionally steep, but the trail features its share of switchbacks and climbs, making it a worthwhile challenge.

The views at the top of the pass and along its ridge are absolutely fabulous and serve as an excellent payoff. Take a break here to enjoy the granite peaks, green valleys and layers of mountains which unfold in all directions off the ridge.

The descent isn’t too steep, but you’ll still need to be careful with your footing as you make your way through long grass. Watch out for holes and other irregularities that could easily twist an ankle. You’ll continue down through the hills until you reach Murdash Valley, which is beautifully framed by granite peaks. Continue heading straight down through the valley, likely encountering a shepherd or two, until you reach the dirt road.

That’s where you’ll pick up transport to take you back to Osh. If you've opted for a five-day trek, you'll continue walking to the yurt camp nearby for an overnight.

Koshkol Lakes Day Trek: What to Expect on a Day Trek in the High Alay Mountains

If you don't have much time and can't do a multi-day trek in the High Alay Mountains, we highly suggest the Koshkol Lakes Day Trek near Sary Mogul village. This day-trek is a sort of “best of the Alay Mountains” — turquoise alpine lakes, glaciers, views of the Pamir Mountains and Peak Lenin, gorgeous meadows, yurt villages and frolicking yaks — all in just one day.

Hiking Distance: 21.4 km
Minimum / Maximum Altitude: 3,528 m / 4,213 m
Number of hours hiking: 6-8 hours
Season: June – September
Difficulty: Medium

To get to the starting point of the trek, take a transfer from Sary Mogul village to Damjailoo yurt camp about 10 km up a dirt road from Kashka-Suu village. Be sure to get an early start so that you can maximize daylight.

It’s a relatively long walk and it’s worth it to take your time to enjoy the stunning scenery on the way to the pass, at the pass (4,195 meters) itself, and the snow-covered Pamir Mountains in the late afternoon light. If you have extra time, you can push a little bit past the pass to glimpse even more lakes and the glaciers above it.

On the descent, Dan and I — individually, as we'd become separated — shared becoming emotionally overcome and overwhelmed to the point of tears with the sense of beauty and peace of the the final, long meadow you cross, just before descending into the shepherd's yurt village. This moment underscored for each of us how the world is filled with the immense, expansive power and beauty of nature. We were — and still are — filled with gratitude that places such as these exist, and that we've been among the fortunate (and few) to have experienced it.

Note: this trek can be expanded into an overnight trek which includes crossing another mountain pass and a seeing a total of seven alpine lakes.

Costs of the Koshkol Lakes Day Trek

These are 2018 prices so please get in touch with Visit Alay for updated prices as some costs and fees may have increased over the years.

Prices above include: Round-trip transport from/to Sary Mogul village and the trailhead, local guide, food.

Note: If you want to do this trek independently without a guide, round-trip transport from/to Sary Mogul village costs around 2,000 som / $30 where the driver will wait for you at Damjailoo yurt camp.

When to go Trekking in the Alay Mountains

The trekking season in the Alay Mountains begins in early-to-mid June and runs until mid September. The high season is July and August when temperatures are warm and the mountain passes are fully cleared of snow.

By the end of August temperatures begin dropping considerably at higher elevations. Although some treks can technically be done in early September, be especially sure to pack additional warm clothing and layers for this time. If you can time it, we recommend going early in the season in mid-late June when wildflowers are blooming and everything is green. Having said that, it remains stunning through August, as our experience proved.

Both times we went trekking was in late August. The weather was excellent. Days were warm and sunny, and although it was cold at night at altitude at the campsites (close to 4,000 meters / 13,123 feet) it was comfortable as we were prepared with warm sleeping bags and plenty of warm layers.

Should I trek in the Alay Mountains independently or with a guide?

All of the Alay Mountain treks above can be done either independently or with a guide. Many of these trails and routes have been marked recently (keep a lookout for red paint) and are included in the new regional trekking maps (available at Destination Osh or Visit Alay offices in Osh city). However, these trails do take you into some rather remote and high altitude areas where it is easy to get lost.

Your decision whether to go on your own or hire a guide should include factors like: how much experience you have trekking in remote areas, your skill at reading trekking maps and/or GPS devices, the length of your trek, your budget, and weather. That said, never sacrifice safety.

Although our Koshkol Lakes and Heights of Alay treks technically could have been done without a guide, we were thankful to have one with us. This provided us with peace of mind that we were on the right path (as some of you may remember, we have gotten lost in the mountains before).

Having a guide allowed us to focus on the experience. We avoided having our nose in a physical map and on digital tracks, worried about taking the wrong trail. Not to mention, it was nice to have horses carry our gear rather than having to deal with heavy backpacks.

In addition, our local guide provided local context and a stronger connection to local people and culture. We asked questions of our guide, regarding his experience growing up in these mountains and recent changes he'd seen in environment, culture and economy. Some of the areas where we trekked had local shepherds and yurt camps, and we were often invited in for tea, bread or other snacks. Our guide acted as a sort of cultural ambassador, and served as an interpreter so we could ask questions and engage in deeper conversations.

While trekking independently in the Alay Mountains may save you some money and perhaps allow you a little more flexibility of schedule, local guides are immensely helpful. In addition, we knew that the money we spent was going to support local people and communities, directly and indirectly.

How to Organize Your Alay Mountains Trek: Trekking Agencies, Guides and Options

We'd recommend going with a local trekking agency. They know the area well and work with local guides. The closest big city to the Alay Mountains is Osh, which can serve as a planning and organizing hub.

Travel to Osh, do your research, visit local tour operators (we've trekked with and recommend Visit Alay), and make your trekking arrangements. There is also a CBT office in Sary Mogul that can help you organize treks, find homestays, and hire guides and horses.

If you are traveling to the Alay Mountains region from Tajikistan (e.g., Pamir Highway) or China consider making arrangements in advance so that you don't end up back-tracking. In this case, it makes more sense to stop off in Sary Mogul or Sary Tash on your way to Osh and do your treks directly from there.

If you are trekking during high season (July-August), send a few email inquiries in advance to be certain that trekking agencies are not already at capacity with their guides, tours and rental gear. We heard that Visit Alay and some of the nearby CBT partners were expanding their inventories of trekking gear (e.g., tents, sleeping bags, mats, backpacks, cooking stoves, etc.) so hopefully this will be less of an issue in the future.

Our trek was organized by Visit Alay, the Osh branch of Community Based Tourism Kyrgyzstan. We were really happy with our experience and the level of service.

The manager, Talant, is from the Alay Mountains himself and knows the local communities well. In fact, as we trekked with him he would greet all local families along the way. They talked with him about what we were doing and if the families might want to become involved by offering accommodation (e.g., yurt stays), meals or other support. All the tours and treks through Visit Alay use local guides, and a portion of their profits goes back to the community. (Disclosure: Our trek was organized for us and paid by the USAID-BGI tourism development project as we were helping to mark the trails.)

Because we were also marking the trails at the same time, we had two guides on our trip. We can recommend both of them. Aziret grew up in a village in the Alay Valley, but is currently based out of Osh since he is studying foreign languages at university. He guides during the summer to support his eduction. Ubai is based in Sary Mogul and knows all the mountains in the area like the back of his hand. Both are pretty good cooks, too. Update September 2019: Aziret is now working in the Visit Alay office in Osh so he is no longer guiding. However, we had Timur as our trekking guide during our recent visit and he was also great during the nine days we were together in the mountains and in villages.

They took good care of us, always making sure there was hot water for tea or coffee. They had abundant snacks on hand any time we looked hungry. They are also both horse experts, and were very adept with pack horses, especially over some of the very difficult mountain passes.

Help your guide help you. Make sure that you let the trekking agency and guide know in advance of any medical needs you might have, as well as any dietary restrictions. This will allow your guide to purchase the right type of food and snacks for you. Many of the trekking guides recently completed additional culinary training for mountain treks, so they ought to be well prepared to cook vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and other styles of food.

Accommodation and Sleeping Options in the Alay Mountains: Camping and Yurt Stays

Some treks will give you the option of either camping or yurt stays (staying with local shepherds and their families on the jailoo). Some combine the two accommodation options in one trek. Here are the advantages and disadvantages of both.

Camping: The primary advantage of camping is that you have more flexibility of where you can spend the night, which may allow you to reach more remote areas. The down-side: when temperatures drop, you need to be prepared.

Kyrgyz yurt stays: All the main Alay Mountain treks now have a network of yurt camps so you can spend all the nights in yurts. These are usually offered by shepherd families where you are in a separate yurt set up solely for trekkers. We recommend you take this option as you'll have more opportunity to interact with local people and you won't have to carry tents, food or camping equipment.

The advantage of yurt stays is that you have more opportunity to engage with local people and culture, eat a hearty home-cooked meal, and sleep inside (i.e., usually warmer). Also, you know that your tourism money is contributing to the income of the local family.

What to expect in a Kyrgyz yurt stay:

• Home-cooked meals: Food will be hearty and plentiful. Almost every meal includes some type of homemade bread, fresh dairy products (e.g., yogurt, sour cream, milk, etc.), local honey and jams, and tea. Lunch or dinner usually features some sort of meat with rice or potatoes.
• Sleeping area: Sleeping in yurts usually consists of a thin mattress or mat on the ground with lots of blankets piled on top. Typically 6-8 people will share a yurt. Carry a sleep sack with you.
• Toilets: Either don't expect any as you're out in nature or expect a makeshift outhouse. Either way, always have some tissues on hand and bring a headlamp for any nighttime toilet trips.
• Drinking water: Yurt camps will provide you with boiled water if you request it so you can easily refill your reusable water bottle or water bladder. We recommend carrying water purification drops or a SteriPEN with you just in case. This way, you'll always be assured of having clean drinking water with you.

Costs for Trekking in the Alay Mountains

If you wish to trek independently or with only limited support, a price list of guides, horse porters, camping gear, and accommodation follows. Note: Although the prices listed are from Visit Alay, we hear that prices are similar at CBT Sary Mogul and other local agencies.

2025 prices for these treks and hikes in the Pamir-Alay Mountains:

Accommodation Costs in the Alay Mountains and Sary Mogul

It seems like pricing is pretty standardized at 1,000 som ($15) a person for sleeping, dinner and breakfast at yurt stays and guest houses in the Alay Mountains. If you're sleeping in your own tent, but want a home-cooked meal, costs run about 300 som ($4.50) for dinner or lunch, and 250 som ($3.70) for breakfast.

Many treks in the Alay Mountains set off from Sary Mogul village so you'll need to arrange accommodation there the night before. There are a few basic guest houses and homestays there, usually with shared rooms and bathrooms. Visit Alay or CBT Sary Mogul can help make a reservation for you as most do not currently support online booking. The basic price is similar at 1,000 som ($15) for a bed, dinner, and breakfast.

Transport: How to get to the Alay Mountains

The Pamir-Alay Mountain region in southern Kyrgyzstan lies at the crossroads of China, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. The city of Osh is Kyrgyzstan's second largest city, and offers the widest support for the Alay Mountains (if you are already in Kyrgyzstan or coming from Uzbekistan). However, if you are coming from China or Tajikistan, you might wish to stop off in Sary Mogul or Sary Tash on your way to Osh and organize some treks along the way.

How to get to Osh City

Flying to Osh

The fastest way to get to Osh if you are already in Kyrgyzstan is to fly there from Bishkek. It's a quick 45-minute flight over some stunning mountain ranges, so try to get a window seat. We used Skyscanner to price and book flights from Bishkek to Osh.

In the summer months there are also direct flights from Tamchy Airport (IKU) on the north shore of Lake Issyk-Kul, which is a better option if you're coming from Karakol, Jyrgalan, or South Shore.

The are also direct flights to Osh from Moscow, Novosibirsk and a few other destinations. You can check the full schedule of flights to/from Osh airport here.

Land Transport: Buses, Shared Taxis and Public Transport to Osh

Shared taxi from Bishkek: Shared taxis to Osh leave from the Western Bus Station in Bishkek throughout the day. The cost is around 1,000-1,200 som/person. It's a long journey (10-11 hours), but you'll be rewarded with some beautiful views at the Toktugol Reservoir and over several mountain passes. No marshrutkas are allowed on this route because of safety.

Transport to Osh from China (Irkeshtam Border Crossing): It's best if you can arrange bus transport for the entire journey. If you can't, there are usually shared taxis hanging around the Kyrgyz side of the border that can take you either to Sary Tash (where you can then catch a marshrutka to Osh) or directly to Osh (4-5 hours).

Transport from Uzbekistan (Dostuk Border Crossing): Fortunately, the border with Uzbekistan is only 10km from Osh so this is an easy transfer. There are always oodles of shared taxis and marshrutkas at the border waiting to take you to the center of the city.

Transport from Tajikistan (Kyzylart – Bor Dobo Border Crossing): Travelers usually travel this way as part of their Pamir Highway road trip. Public transport is limited to none around the border area, so it's best if you arrange transport in advance to take you either all the way to Osh, or at least to Sary Tash or Sary Mogul. From those villages you can always catch onward public transport.

How to get to the Alay Mountains from Osh

Many of the treks in the Alay Mountains use Sary Mogul or Sary Tash as a base. Both villages are accessible by public transport from Osh either by marshrutka or shared taxi.

Trekking Packing List for the Alay Mountains

Much of what we include in our How to Pack for a Trek article still applies here. However, we offer a customized Alay Mountains trekking packing list to ensure you have what you need to be comfortable in the mountains yet don’t overpack.

Since there is now a network of yurt camps on the different Alay Mountain trails there is no need anymore to carry sleeping bags, tents or other camping gear. However, this does mean that you will need to carry a backpack with your clothes and basic toiletries.

Recommended trekking backpacks

Women's recommended backpack: Deuter ACT Trail Pro 32 SL Backpack: I love this backpack. It's very light with all sorts of great functionality like a built-in rain cover, water bladder compatibility, wide waist belt for stability, and more. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI

Men's recommended backpack: Osprey Packs Exos 38 Backpack: This backpack comes in several sizes, and the Large version is well-suited for tall people (like Dan). Light, comfortable, and durable. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI (48-liter)

Clothing

You really don’t need much in this department. Don’t worry about wearing the same thing every day. Everyone does it. It's more about having the proper layers as the temperatures may fall quickly at night. Here’s what we suggest:

• 1 set of hiking clothes: T-shirt (preferably quick dry), long-sleeved hiking shirt ( (his and hers) or pullover, shorts or trekking pants, hiking socks.
• 1 set of evening clothes for sleep: T-shirt, long pants (or pajama bottoms), socks. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside your backpack.
• Ski hat and gloves: This may not be necessary earlier in the season, but by late August we were very thankful to have these.
• Underwear for every day of your trek: With an extra pair thrown in for good measure, if you like. Recommended his and hers
• Extra pair of socks: Just in case you want to switch out or it's freezing and you need an extra layer to stay warm in your sleeping bag.
• Fleece or other shell jacket: For cool nights or sleeping.
• Rain or windproof jacketI upgraded to a NorthFace Climatech technology waterproof jacket recently and I love it. It not only provided protection against the rain and cold, but the jacket material is very breathable so it didn't feel like a sauna inside. Highly recommended. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon.
• Down jackets: We've also started carrying a light down jacket that can be stuffed into a tiny cinch bag. It hardly takes up any room or weight in the backpack, but can provide warmth and comfort at night when temperatures drop. Dan loves his seamless ultra-light down jacket from Uniqlo.
• Waterproof Poncho (optional): Just in case it rains. This one covers your backpack for additional protection.
• Waterproof pants: Hopefully you won't need these, but better to be safe than sorry. We carry a pair of light pull-on biking waterproof/water resistant pants. They fold up into a small bag so they barely take up any room or weight in your backpack, but keep you quite dry when the clouds open up.
• Thermal underwear (top/bottom): If you're trekking either early or late in the season, consider bringing along some silk long johns as they are warm, comfy and take up almost no room at all.
• Hiking shoes: Low-rise hiking shoes are fine. We both recently shifted to wearing Oboz Sawtooth hiking boots. The insoles and support for your feet are really good, and the shoes are sturdy and can stand up to some tough terrain. In addition, Oboz plants a tree for every pair of shoes sold so you can feel good that your purchase is going towards reforestation and environmental projects. Men's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon. Women's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon
• Flip flops or river shoes: At the end of a long day of walking you may want to take off your hiking shoes and give your feet a rest. But you'll still need something on your feet to go to and from the yurt to the outhouse. That's where flip flops or river shoes worn with socks (yes, ignore the fashion police) are perfect. Buy on Amazon (Women's) | Men's River Shoes

Other Trekking Gear

• Refillable water bottle or water bladder: Refill your own water containers with boiled or purified water instead of carrying bottled water and leaving a trail of plastic wasted. We also recommend carrying water purification drops or a SteriPEN with you so that you can always be assured of having safe drinking water with you.
• Walking stick: Highly recommended, especially for downhill sections through slippery scree. We usually share one walking stick set of two so each of us uses one stick.
• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand.
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off your hands or face after washing it in the stream.
• Sleep sack: To provide an extra layer between you and the piles of blankets. Plus, this helps keep you warm if the temperatures drop at night.
• Headlamp: The yurt camps do not have electricity or lights outside. Carry your own headlamp to find your way to the toilet and to sort through your stuff at night in the yurt if it doesn't have a solar light.

Toiletries and Health Kit

You won't have access to a shower for several days at a time, but you don't really miss it as the evenings and mornings are quite cool. You will have access to fresh water everywhere to wash your face and hands.

• Soap, toothbrush, toothpaste, dental floss: You know, the basics. And don't laugh at us that we put dental floss as a basic. You'll thank us after eating a meat-heavy meal.
• Sunscreen: The higher the SPF, the better. At this altitude the sun is very powerful.
• Sunglasses: Necessary. That sun is darn strong.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side.
• Pack of tissues or roll of toilet paper: There were rolls of toilet paper available in out houses, but it’s always a good idea to carry your own…just in case.
• Duct tape: Effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration powders, ciprofloxacin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea). Note: All this can be easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies in Osh.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

You will have access to electricity when you stay in guesthouses in Kyzyl Shoro and Kojokelen villages, but prepare yourself for having limited to no electricity at the yurt camps. Although some yurt camps do have solar panels the level of charging ability varies. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode. There is no connectivity along the trek anyhow, so don't waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. Here’s an example for our iPhone X battery case. Alternatively, you could carry a Mophie charger or solar powered power bank. They all provide another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spend time reviewing your images on your phone or in the camera viewfinder, as this will quickly consume battery power. Unless you are reviewing images to determine whether you’ve captured a specific shot, there will be time enough for photo review when your trek is finished.

Still have questions about the Alay Mountains and trekking in the region? Please ask in the comments below.

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Trekking in Kyrgyzstan, you'll find you don't often run into too many other travelers; there's plenty of space and elevation to go around. But if you really want to go offbeat and have the mountains to yourself, consider the newly developed Jyrgalan (Jergalan) to Boz Uchuk Lakes Trek in eastern Kyrgyzstan.

You'll share the peaks and alpine lakes with just a handful of shepherds and their animals grazing on the jailoo (high pastures). It's this sort of trademark experience that makes Kyrgyzstan an unusual trekking destination.

We felt fortunate to be among the first to experience this new trek in Jyrgalan Valley. Its path takes you 55km (33.5 miles) through the Terskei Ala-Too Range of the Tian Shan Mountains of eastern Kyrgyzstan, over mountain passes, across river valleys and up to alpine lakes.

Given our previous visits to Kyrgyzstan, our expectations were high. Yet they were exceeded in terms of landscape and overall trekking experience.

Here’s why, day by day. Here’s also why you might want to consider putting trekking in Kyrgyzstan — with over 90% of its territory covered in mountains, 40% of which are over 3,000 meters / 9,840 feet — on your travel wish list. We’ve included all you need to know to plan, prepare for and enjoy the Boz Uchuk Lakes trek.

What to Expect on The Boz Uchuk Lakes Trek in Jyrgalan Valley: Day by Day

Originally a coal mining village, Jyrgalan has had a rough time of things since the mines closed a decade ago. The local economy and business declined and half the population left. The setting of Jyrgalan, surrounded by mountains, makes it a prime location for trekking in the summer and skiing in the winter. Within the last year, a few community members have joined together to form a DMO (Destination Management Organization) to promote tourism development in the area with the goal of increasing local economic opportunities. The Boz Uchuk Lakes trek is among its initial experience offerings.

We did the Boz Uchuk Lakes trek with a mountain guide, cook, and horses to carry camping equipment, food, and our gear. We were thankful for the full support. Because we only carried a daypack and camera during the day, we could focus on the experience at hand. Our big backpacks, tent and other supplies were all carried by horses.

Food appeared at lunch stops and our tents and backpacks, complete with clothes for cooler nights, appeared at our campsites at the end of each day, just as we needed them. Not to mention, the local horsemen served as our unofficial cultural ambassadors by sharing videos of Kyrgyz music, sports and family stories from their phones.

With detours to alpine lakes each day, the Jyrgalan trail and surrounding landscape proved more beautiful and varied than we'd expected. Our photos don't fully do justice to the fluctuations of mountain light and color.

Note: The route below represents the three-day Boz Uchuk Lakes trek route we experienced, as tracked by our use of the Endomondo app. You can also find the official GPS tracks here. It is possible to extend the trek to five days, or to shorten it to an overnight experience.