Whether you're looking for a traditional German Christmas market or something a bit more offbeat, I offer here my handy Berlin Christmas Market guide. The recommendations are based on our experience living in Berlin for ten years and being avid Christmas market fans. It has all the information you need to know, including dates and schedules of Berlin Christmas markets and notes on how to visit my local favorites — these are Christmas markets that will make your visit to Berlin during the Christmas and holiday season even more special.

The Spirit of German Christmas Markets

There’s something that just about everyone looks forward to in December in Berlin: Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmarkt or Adventsmarkt). They offer a retreat from the shortening days of the year, into the company of gathered friends and neighbors.

In the selection that follows, you'll find the “markets” listed less about shopping and more about community — where friends and families make plans to meet at the market after work or on weekends. A place where the aroma of glühwein (spiced, mulled wine) and sweet roasted almonds wafts in an atmosphere of twinkling lights in a chilly winter vapor.

As conversations happen over steaming mugs of glühwein and hearty German street food like bratwurst, market-goers catch up on life and give air to what awaits at the turn of the new year. Christmas markets serve as the perfect antidote — or accompaniment if you like — to the approaching Winter Solstice.

I confess that I am a bit of a Christmas market geek. I helped launch a Christmas market when I lived in Estonia many years ago. Dan and I have even taken Christmas market-themed road trips through Germany and Central Europe.

Maybe this Christmas market affinity of mine has something to do with the fact that I'm American and I didn't grow up with the Christmas market culture. So, I get a little giddy when the season rolls around and I'm within reach of one. Whatever the cause, this is one of the reasons we stick around Berlin in December.

Does Berlin Have Christmas Markets?

At this point you might be thinking: “German Christmas markets are famous, but I’ve never heard anything about Christmas markets in Berlin.”

OK, then. Berlin’s Christmas markets haven’t traditionally carried the same reputation or history as those in other German cities like Munich, Nuremberg or Stuttgart. But that’s changing. Berlin makes its own way and blends the traditional into the tapestry of its forward-lurching, unusual self.

Just as Berlin doesn’t have one town center, it also doesn’t have one main Christmas market. Instead, Berlin usually features more than 50 markets (in 2022 it's gone up to 70 markets!) spread throughout the city, each with its own distinct personality, atmosphere and specialties. Some run the length of the Advent season, while others are limited-time offers or tuned to the spirit of their local neighborhood for only a weekend or two.

Of course, a certain commercialization and schlock lurks conspicuously at some markets. With this in mind, we share our personal recommendations: a few trusted and traditional or local and authentic favorites to help you get started in your Berlin Christmas market exploration.

Note: This post was originally published on December 3, 2015 and updated on December 8, 2024 with updated dates, times and other information. .

Berlin Christmas Market Dates

Berlin Christmas markets are usually open for the entire Advent Christmas market season, from the end of November through Christmas (and sometimes through to the New Year). In 2024, most of the Berlin Christmas Market open on 25 November 2024 and run until the very end of December or beginning of January 2025.

Best Berlin Christmas Markets

With around 70 Christmas markets in Berlin, so you'll have quite a few to choose from to enjoy the holiday season.

We find these Christmas markets especially atmospheric when it's dark and everything is tastefully lit, which is easy since the sun sets in Berlin before 4PM throughout December. Glühwein seems to taste better in the evening, too.

READ MORE: Berlin Travel: A Beginner's Guide

WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market

Why: For a bit of the traditional in a beautiful setting, especially at night as the Konzerthaus (Concert Hall) and nearby churches and buildings are lit. Gift stands at the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market tend to be handicraft-oriented or luxury-focused. Food quality is generally pretty high here as well.

Be sure to check out the big feuerzangenbowle (fire-tongs punch) tent and seek out the wooden barrel of rum to the right of the bar should you need to “enhance” your steaming mug full of punch. In general, if you encounter a choice of glühwein “mit schuss”, that simply means “with a shot” as in a shot of rum or possibly amaretto. Note: Gendarmenmarkt charges a nominal entrance fee of €1. For more information, check out the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market page.

Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas Market

Why: To drink mugs of steaming glühwein in the shadow of a 300+ year old Baroque palace. The Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas market is one with big time European fairytale charm. Some of its stands feature traditional — and huge — Christmas pyramids which entertain as figures go round and round all night long. Also fun, but kind of cheesy, is the light show at night.

For more information, check out the Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas Market page.

Lucia Christmas Market at Kulturbrauerei (Nordic-Scandanavian Christmas Market)

Why: Because you always wanted to taste the difference between Swedish, Norwegian and Danish glögg (Scandinavian mulled wine). Top off the entire experience with reindeer sausages and a host of other Nordic games and treats and you might just forget where you are. Compared to other open-space Christmas markets, the Lucia Christmas Market is set up in the winding courtyards of Kulturbrauerei, a 19th century brick industrial complex.

For more information, see the Lucia Christmas Market at KulturBrauerei page.

Spandau Old Town and Citadel Christmas Markets

Why: To feel as though you’ve been transported to a small German village even though you remain within the Berlin city limits. The citadel of Spandau, one of the best preserved Renaissance fortresses in Europe, is also taken over by its Christmas market.

The old town of Spandau also hosts a large Christmas Market on its streets. While the atmosphere and some of the bigger stands along the main strip can feel a bit commercial, the little courtyards and stands convey something a bit more traditional.

For more information, see the Spandau Christmas Market page.

Medieval Historical Christmas Market at RAW

Why: To feel like you've gone back in time to a medieval village complete with axe throwing or archery competitions and hand-operated carousels. This Berlin Christmas market is built each year on the grounds of the RAW Cultural Center and is a fun experience and atmosphere, especially for families or kids, thanks to all of its performances and games.

You can warm yourself up around one of the several fire pits and drink mulled wine or hot mead from heavy ceramic mugs. There is also plenty of hearty food, some of it of it aiming to be “medieval” (aka, heavy), to keep you warm and full. A fun way to spend a cold winter evening.

For more information see the Historical Christmas Market at RAW Cultural Centre page.

Potsdam Christmas Market

Why: To take a break from the big city. Visit the Potsdam UNESCO sites of Sanssouci Palace and gardens during the day and enjoy eierpunsch (spiced egg punch) at the Christmas market at night. The market takes over the streets of the old town for blocks on end and features some of the most elaborate and largest displays we’ve seen. There’s also an ice skating rink and other fun stuff for kids…or adults.

There is also a Polish Christmas Market nearby at the Kutschstallhof from 2-4 December to get your fill of Polish pierogis, handicrafts and other specialties.

For more information, see the Potsdam Christmas Market page.

Berlin Neighborhood and Weekend Christmas Markets

In addition to Christmas markets which run the entire length of Advent, Berlin also features its share of short-run special and weekend markets. These markets are typically smaller affairs featuring local organizations and neighborhood-oriented venues. If you're visiting Berlin for a couple of days during the Christmas season and authentic and local is what you seek, it's absolutely worth doing some research to see which of these markets happens to be timed with your visit.

Alt-Rixdorfer Christmas Market

Why: The Rixdorf Christmas Market serves as a nice kickoff to the Christmas season. It also illustrates how a neighborhood Christmas market can be done well and at scale with local organizations selling homemade crafts to raise money for schools, charities, firemen’s groups, and more. Stands tend to be locally run and offer a perfect excuse to get to know the Neukölln district a little better.

The square where the Alt-Rixdorf Christmas market is held, Richardplatz, features an enclosure with pony rides and a petting zoo. The whole thing is sweet, quaint and helps take you back in time a bit. For more information, see the Alt-Rixdorfer Christmas Market page.

Heissa Holzmarkt

Why: For a mixture of traditional and alternative in a fun and eclectic Berlin community space. Located on the Spree River in Friedrichshain, Holzmarkt is open all year around with its fixed shops, bakery, art studios and event space. Its Christmas market open on weekends during the advent season transforms what feels like its own urban village into a bit of a traditional and modern winter wonderland with bonfires by the river, ample amounts of glühwein, silent disco booths, German and international food options, bizarre puppet shows, and much more. This has become one of our favorite Berlin Christmas markets in the last years.

For more information, see this Heissa Holzmarkt Christmas Market page.

Schloss Britz Christmas Market

Why: To experience an intimate Nordic Medieval Fairytale Christmas market in the courtyard of an 18th century manor house. Though medieval costumes are involved here, the market somehow seems to pull this off without being a caricature of itself. As Schloss Britz Christmas market doesn't typically see the hordes that other markets might, you'll have the opportunity to speak to the various artisans and learn more about their handicrafts, preserves and other wares. The food served is usually inventive and a bit different than standard fare.

There is a €3 entrance fee, but we feel that the atmosphere and quality of the stands warrants the price. For more information, see the Schloss Britz Christmas Market page.

Christmas Market at Domäne Dahlem

Why: Located on the grounds of a manor house which also serves as a sort of farm and agricultural museum, the Christmas Market at Domäne Dahlem includes many small producers and artisans selling everything from sea salts and spices to traditional German handicrafts.

There is also an emphasis on fresh and organic foods, so you can certainly eat well and heartily here. Domäne Dahlem is a bit outside Berlin center, but if you want a more neighborhood and countryside feel, check out this Christmas Market during one of the Advent weekends. Entrance is €4.50.

For more information, see the Christmas Market at Domäne Dahlem page.

Berlin Christmas Market Resources

• A complete list of Berlin Christmas markets maintained by Visit Berlin

More Holiday Things to do in Berlin

Even if visiting Christmas markets is the main goal of your winter visit to Berlin, there are other holiday and Christmas-oriented things to do in the city. Here are a few of the more popular tours, events and experiences in Berlin as offered by our partner (also Berlin-based), Get Your Guide. They offer many different Berlin tours with no booking fees and free cancellation up to 24 hours before.

• Christmas Garden in the Botanical Gardens: I have to admit that I never thought about visiting the Botanical Gardens for Christmas this until my hairdresser recommended it as her favorite holiday activity in Berlin. A 2-km route takes you through a winter wonderland of lights and different holiday installations.
• Berlin TV Tower Fast View Tickets: Get out of the cold and up above it all with these fast-track tickets that allow you to skip the line and go straight up to the top of the TV Tower. You'll have great views of the Christmas market below at Alexander Platz as well as the city as a whole.
• Berlin Welcome Card with Transport Pass: Get around the city by public transportation easily without worrying about buying or validating your tickets with this Berlin Welcome Card (ABC Zones). You can choose different lengths, from 48-hours to 6-days. And, the Welcome Card provides you with lots of discounts at different attractions, shops or museums. We've used Berlin Welcome Cards quite a bit when we've had visitors as it's cost-effective when you plan to travel around a lot and do a lot of different activities.

Best Areas in Berlin To Stay for Christmas Markets

Here are a few recommended accommodation options in some of our favorite Berlin neighborhoods of Kreuzberg-Friedrichshain, Neukölln, and Mitte.

• Weinmeister Hotel in Mitte: Located in the heart of Mitte near Hackescher Markt and not far from Alexanderplatz, this design hotel is in a great location and has a beautiful rooftop terrace for meals and drinks. Several friends and work colleagues have stayed here and recommend it. Note: this is an adult-only hotel.
• Hüttenpalast in Neukölln: Located in a fun and hip area between Kreuzberg and Neukölln, Hüttenpalast offers both retro-style caravans and cabins, as well as hotel rooms, and a relaxing garden. Friends have enjoyed staying here.
• Nena Apartments in Bergmannkiez, Kreuzberg: If you want your own apartment and kitchen to self-cater, these apartments on a quiet street in the cute Bergmannkiez part of Kreuzberg are a good option. There are also Nena Apartments in Neukölln (Hermannplatz) and in the Moritzplatz area of Kreuzberg.
• Michelberger Hotel in Friedrichshain: Located close to the East Side Gallery (2km of the Berlin Wall that is now an outdoor mural gallery) and Spree River, the Michelberger Hotel has a great lobby and restaurant on the ground floor and unique design rooms of all sizes and prices. Several friends who have stayed here recommend it for the rooms and the location.
• Circus Hostel in Berlin: If you are looking for a hostel or budget accommodation option, several friends have recommended Circus Hostel with both dorm and single/double room options. It's located very close to Rosenthaler Platz in Mitte with lots of local restaurants, cafes and bars in walking distance. The owners have recently opened up Circus Hotel nearby if you aren't into the hostel vibe.

Plan Your Berlin Christmas Market Trip

• How to get to Berlin: There are endless options to fly to Berlin thanks to all the traditional and low cost airlines flying into TXL (Tegel Airport) or SXF (Schönefeld Airport). We often use Skyscanner to compare flight prices and to book tickets because it displays all the various airline combinations, including options from low-fare airlines.
• Berlin restaurant recommendations: For budget eating, check our our guides for favorite cheap eats in Berlin under €5 and our favorite neighborhood meals under €10. StilinBerlin offers another reliable resource for local Berlin restaurants and “best of” guides.

The post Berlin Christmas Markets: The Ultimate Guide (Updated 2024) appeared first on Uncornered Market.

As the road turned steeper still and narrowed, a 13^th century castle with hill towns in view just behind it hinted at the medieval history around us, of struggles between barons and popes.

This is Lazio, a slice of Italy with all the archaeological, culinary, natural and romantic trappings you might expect but, for now at least, without the crowds.

Lazio, Italy: Wide Open

“Where is Lazio?” a friend asked when we first spoke of setting off on this trip.

Despite having visited Italy well over a dozen times since we married (in Tuscany), we knew little about Lazio prior to this project, one initiated by Thybris River Experience and funded by Lazio Region, one intended to craft new guided e-bike itineraries in the region.

If you felt the need to place yourself in the geographic center of Italy, you might not imagine Lazio, the regional home to Italy’s capital Rome. But it’s about where you’d be.

As our guide Giorgia unspooled her stories, she hinted that Lazio was pressed between the ritualized Etruscans to the north in Tuscany and the free-wheeling Bourbon-influenced provinces of southern Italy. In all ways, Lazio seems to teeter in between these worlds.

She also explained the word Lazio was derived from the Latin word latus meaning “wide.” While this referred to the low-lying areas around Rome, the idea of Lazio as “wide open”, including for exploration, grew on us as we spent more time. Much of what we experienced felt relatively undiscovered from a tourism perspective.

From the well-preserved ancient echoes of Ostia Antica to the modern psychic imprint of Italian film greats and philosopher-poets like Pier Paolo Pasolini, this part of northern Lazio might bear a label that reads “greater Rome.” Yet our daily experience was more expansive. It featured hill town espresso breaks, hidden sculpture gardens, migratory bird hides, and overnights in restored villas, all punctuated with random encounters and mid-afternoon noshes on pastas turned in local products and paired with local wines.

Developing guided e-bike itineraries in Lazio

Our journey through Lazio included ten days' worth of e-bike rides in three distinct areas, each within about an hour's train ride from Rome. The goal of these three itineraries, which our involvement and feedback will help refine, is to enable travelers to engage with lesser-known hill towns, protected areas, cultural curiosities and historical sites in Lazio Region along the Tiber River as it winds its way from north of Rome, through the city and out to the Tyrrhenian Sea on Italy's west coast.⁠

The two- and three-day customizable trips connect travelers to still relatively unknown areas near Rome in a way that celebrates local communities, artisans and experiences.

Core to these guided tours are the concepts of sustainability, community, and a focus on all things local, including accommodation, guides, food, transport and providers. Although all destinations noted here can be accessed via other methods of transport, e-bikes featured as our primary mode of transport together with an occasional regional train. The aim: to maximize local benefit and minimize environmental impact.

Across three multi-day itineraries in Lazio, here are just some of the people and places you might encounter.

A big thanks goes to Giorgia Cadinu, a dynamic professional guide in Rome and cycling enthusiast. She initiated this project and shared her curiosity and passion for the Tiber River and Lazio Region with us all along the way. If you wish to book or customize any of the following guided itineraries, contact Thybris River Experience. Note that the website may refer to the tours as Pomona (Tuscia and Teverina), Bona Dea (Tevere Farfa Reserve and Nazzano), and Leucotea and Egeria (Ostia Antica, Fiumicino, and Isola Sacra into Rome) lands respectively.

1. Tuscia and Teverina: hill town and villa life

Just an hour outside Rome by train are the Tuscia and Teverina districts of northern Lazio on the border of Italy's Umbria and Tuscany regions. Despite the accessibility of these districts to the capital city, you'll find what feels like a completely different world — one defined by rolling landscapes, wine farms, and a spread of palazzi and manor houses which harken back to barons whose designs for power may have conflicted with a pope or two.

Explore the hill towns of Tuscia in Lazio by e-bike

While Tuscany and Umbria are famous for their hill towns, you’ll find the beauty of medieval hill towns with melodic names like Civitella d'Agliano, Celleno, Roccalvecce, Sippiciano and Vitorchiano perched high above the Tiber River valley in Lazio.

But these destinations come without the crowds, for now at least.

One of the benefits of traveling by e-bike from hill town to hill town around the region is the opportunity to appreciate the contours and changes in landscape, as well as the subtle shifts in character of the towns and townspeople along the way.

From forest to rolling hill to volcanic farm, our cycling journey from one destination to another delivered some of the most memorable and most photogenic experiences of the day.

Trebotti Wine Farm: Taste volcanic wines from a fully sustainable winery

While many wineries today have only just begun to focus on sustainability, Trebotti winery in the hills of Tuscia has made sustainability core to its family-run operations for over 20 years. During a tour, you'll see this considered in every detail: the (re)use of an ancient Etruscan cellar to store its sparkling wines, the choice to grow only indigenous grapes on its volcanic soils, the use of lightweight glass bottles, and an elaborate self-regulating air circulation system to reduce energy consumption. The goal of all this is to operate sustainably, to live up to the wine's organic label, to manage environmental impact and to find balance with nature.

If anyone wished to understand what sustainability looks like in detailed operation, this wine farm would be a great place to start.

Federico, our host, summed it up well: “To be sustainable is to respect the land.”

Our wine tasting featured five wines paired with homegrown produce and homemade bites, enjoyed overlooking the Trebotti vineyards below.⁠ Sample the local Grechetto, a white wine varietal you'll likely become familiar with on your visit to the Lazio region. We sampled a rose and orange wine, both of which paired nicely with semi-dried tomato confit, crostini and local cured sausage.

Finally, we tasted two red wines, including our favorite Gocce Rosso made from Violone, the local Lazio name for the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo varietal. This paired with a 72-month aged caciocavallo cheese and homemade salted chocolate nocciola red wine crema proved an astonishing way to conclude a tasting.

La Serpara: Find the hidden sculpture garden

For over 25 years the artist Paul Wiedmer and his wife Jacqueline have invited artists to find inspiration in nature and to harness the creative spirit at their home-atelier tucked in the hills near the town of Civitella d'Agliano. Today, La Serpara is open for private visits.

You can enjoy a guided walk around sculpture gardens and bamboo forests dotted with modern art installations and take in the story of the site and the works that various artists-in-residence have created over the years.

Civitella d'Agliano: craftsmen bicycles and castles

There seems to be no trade or service that couldn't be delivered on the back of a bicycle in early- to mid-20th century Italy. Knife sharpener, priest, portrait photographer, mattress cleaner, hairdresser, obstetrician. These are just a few of the professions, together with their customized, elaborately outfitted bicycles, that form the private collection at Il Mulino dei Mestieri (The Mill of Craftsmen) in Civitella d'Agliano.

Alessia and her husband Daniele have spent over ten years collecting, repairing and lovingly restoring their collection of antique craftsmen bicycles. This snapshot of 20th century village trade history is now on display in a local mill. As Alessia showed us around and demonstrated kits of each bicycle, it was remarkable to see how every step, tool and feature of each service or trade was carefully integrated into bicycle construction.

If you are a bicycle-bound obstetrician, a baby's life depends on it!

Delivery services today seem to have nothing on the early 20th century blend of ingenuity and efficiency. And certainly nothing of the personality.

Celleno: Il Borgo Fantasma

The town of Celleno, known today as Il Borgo Fantasma (the “Ghost Town”), had been a vibrant, living hill town for over 1000 years until the mid-20th century when a string of earthquakes and landslides rendered it a dangerous place to live. However, each time the authorities tried to clear inhabitants from their homes and move them elsewhere, they returned. It was their home after all.

Eventually, in the 1950s, the authorities demolished most of the old town buildings. Hence, Celleno became a ghost town where only the ruins of buildings remain.

Some of the surviving medieval structures have recently been transformed into an open air museum and a series of historical exhibitions. One features a collection of 20th century sound and recording devices, while another antique and artifact exhibition is built around a multi-story medieval trash tunnel dating back 800 years. These “medieval trash heaps” as they are called are fascinating, not least of all because they give pause and make one wonder what story will one day be drawn from all the trash we currently generate.

Celleno, beautiful and intriguing, offers a fascinating story of of rescued history.

A taste of Tuscia, with a view at San Rocco Restaurant

San Rocco Restaurant, in the inhabited “new town” of Celleno, lies just outside the rampart walls of the ghost town and focuses on local Tuscian fare. Note that's not Tuscan fare, but Tuscian fare from the local region including hill towns like Celleno and the nearby city of Viterbo.

We were fortunate since our visit coincided with the porcini harvest. In-season porcini mushrooms were picked fresh from the forest off in the distance below our lunch terrace. Lunch also included rabbit stew, gnocchi in cime di rapa (broccoli greens) and a plate of stewed fagioli (beans). We opted to pair it all with a local Lazio Pinot Grigio called Satres from Le Lase vineyards. The orange hue in the glass? From 24 to 48 hours of contact with the skin of the grape.

Stay in the restored 18th century Villa Lais

One of the most memorable highlights of this itinerary was our 3-night stay at Villa Lais just outside the town of Sipicciano. Maddalena, the artist proprietor of Villa Lais, purchased this 18th century compound almost ten years ago and has lovingly renovated it over the ensuing years.

Ceilings and walls of inlaid wood illustrated in muted yet dazzling color mesmerize with detail, line and story. The tableau is rich yet not gratuitously busy or overdone. Maddalena's careful eye for design shows in everything, from the furniture to the wine glasses used at dinner, to create a feeling of living history and continuity to the villa's past that feels in no way contrived.

Another characteristic that makes this place feel like home are the four dogs and ten cats who are always ready to greet you when you return from a day of countryside exploration.

Sacro Bosco, the 16th Century “Park of the Monsters”

Sacro Bosco (“Sacred Forest”), also affectionately known as Park of the Monsters, is more firmly on the tourist path than most other destinations we visited in Lazio. But we kind of understand why. The park and its sculptures were commissioned in the mid-16th century by Prince Pier Francesco Orsini as a way to express his grief due both to the untimely death of his wife and the weight of the brutality he had witnessed in war.

Featuring a collection of large stone sculptures depicting fantastic and often disturbing creatures all scattered about in a forest just outside the hill town of Bomarzo, the park was a bit ahead of its time in its vision and anticipation of the need for exhausting one's grief. Despite the fairly steep price of individual admission (13€) and the park's undeniable commercial feel, it might still be worth a look.

2. Tevere-Farfa Reserve and Nazzano: nature, hill towns and art

Our exploration of Lazio continued further along the Tiber River in and around the Tevere-Farfa Natural Reserve. This is the place where the Tiber River environment takes center stage in the experience. Landscapes are green and the pace is reflective, despite the area only being an hour northeast of Rome by train.

Hill towns feature again, but they serve as the backdrop for natural surroundings like swimming wild boars, as well as moments of contemporary culture and artistic flourish, and a surprising lesson in modern history.

Canoeing the Tiber River

The bends of the Tiber River in open green space define the Tevere-Farfa Natural Reserve. Landscape is defined by texture, including hillsides of exposed volcanic tufa rock. Castles seem to keep watch atop the nearby hills overlooking the river valley. Wildlife make their way about. For the first time, we encountered wild boars swimming, making their way from one side of the river to the other.

When we did our paddle, we encountered grey herons and egrets, and various birds pausing as they make their way southward.

Eat farm-to-table at La Fattoria Campo di Contra

As we lounged and noshed farm-to-table with Mauro, founder of La Fattoria Didattica Campo di Contra, we found our table refreshed multiple times with simple dishes fashioned from produce fresh from his organic garden and goods sourced from nearby farms and producers.

Over conversation about life in the region, we enjoyed a range of small plate treats like zucchini flower fritters sided with honey made by bees who snack on local resin, antipasto locale, grilled melanzane (eggplant) and peppers, and fresh bean salad. And Mauro served all of it with his rather quaffable homemade wine.

With our meal as the object lesson, we could feel the vision Mauro has for his land and for helping to connect visitors to nature.

Medieval hill towns and castles to explore

Hill towns featured again in our travels across the Tiber River valley, including one of our visual favorites, Nazzano. It's the one you'll see from below in the Tevere-Farfa Nature Reserve. Historically, we imagined it high up and cliffside in order for its minders to eye the Tiber River below as it flowed with goods into Rome.

As we dreamily perused listings posted inside windows of real estate agents in Nazzano we wondered what it would be like to set up shop, restore one of these buildings and actually live here.

In other hill town stops, we enjoyed beer and snacks in a piazza (and got invited to lunch), took espresso breaks with locals enjoying the morning sun and did things like snack-slurp suppli di telefono, a warm croquette so-called because its mozzarella is so oozy it stretches like telephone wire.

Hike and cycle the trails of Tevere-Farfa Natural Reserve

Tevere-Farfa Natural Reserve is the first protected area in Lazio Region.  When we first entered the park, we found ourselves clearly in the thick of nature. The sun was low and peeked through the trees, casting light and shadows on the more curious members of the local boar families lurking about.  

Between boat rides and canoe trips, we took gentle strolls and and cycled much of the trail that winds itself around and through the bends in the Tiber.

Ecoturismo Tevere Farfa, built on the site of the old organic farm cooperative, is the only accommodation in the park itself and served as our base. Home to a curious cast of characters including a donkey and a sheep who enjoys giving head butts, it functions also as an educational and community gathering center.

Ponzano Romano: Enjoy a conversation with a local artist

Though most of Michele Longo's working years were spent in Rome directing films and mixing it up in cafes with the likes of Pasolini, he now focuses his time painting and creating mixed media art in his apartment studio in the hill town of Ponzano Romano. Surrounded by plants and fruit trees on his sunny veranda, we enjoyed a conversation with him over Cornettino di Ponzano Romano (a savory crisp croissant twist dashed with anise, extra virgin olive oil and glazed just slightly sweet) and demi-tasses of espresso.

Longo's passion is palpable, as is his concern for what he sees as the deterioration of societal elements that support the development of creativity. We appreciated his pithy wisdom and spirit at 82-years young. We also discovered his secret to “creative fermentation” along the way. Hint: it's not about virtual interaction.

Ponzano Romano is also known for its contemporary art museum, which was unfortunately closed at the time of our visit due to a change in exhibitions. However, if you take note of Longo's observation that Ponzano Romano is a more creative city than Rome, the museum is likely worth a look.

Bunker Soratte: Go deep in the WWII and Cold War tunnels

Just when you think you've seen it all in terms of WWII and 20th century military history, you walk into this place and one jaw-drop follows another as history bends the mind again.

Marvel at the scale of Bunker Soratte, Mussolini’s mega-bunker tunnel complex atop Mount Soratte and near the town of Sant'Oreste. Apparently sensing the winds of war, Mussolini ordered it carved into the mountains by Italian engineers. After its construction from 1937 to 1939, and due to Il Duce’s loose hubristic lips, the bunker was squatted by Nazi Germany thereafter and run by Field Marshal Albert Kesselring as the Supreme Command of the South.

Later during the Cold War, the four kilometer tunnel network would become a nuclear fallout shelter for officials in the Italian government.

Site lore makes the place even more intriguing. One story tells of the allied bombing of the bunker (that deliberately spared the nearby town) with the help of a local engineer who communicated intelligence and guidance signals via a transmitter hidden in a birdcage. (Does that make him “the bird man” of Sant'Oreste?) And the lost, stolen Nazi gold? That one begs a miniseries.

The whole thing is pretty sobering too, once you overcome the fascination. Some reflective time out for an espresso or the drink of your choice should follow in the friendly little town of Sant'Oreste nearby.

Fondazione Serpone: art, nature and a surprising chapel

The sculpture garden and outdoor art installations at Fondazione Serpone in Torrita Tiberina are made available by way of a private family collection open to the public (by appointment). Each of its artist-donated pieces is carefully considered and positioned throughout the grounds of the hillside property.

Together, the pieces delight in playful, subtle ways. The subtlety ends, rather deliberately, upon opening the door to the chapel installation executed by Austrian philosopher-artist Hermann Nitsch. What might be considered the centerpiece of the property and its installations, the chapel's interior offers a surprising and challenging interpretation of the spiritual. And the chapel is blessed by the local bishop!

Ecofattorie Sabine: terrace lunch on an organic farm

After all that movement and cycling, uphill and down, a bit of restoration and stock-taking is required.

Ecofattorie Sabine in Poggio Mirteto offers an ideal location for a meal before catching the train to Rome. The farm is right there, so everything is fresh, but so is the train station, so you can roll onto the train after your meal.

For lunch, we shared honey-bathed ricotta; gnocchi with pumpkin cream, sheep cheese, sage and crouton crumble; pici pasta with walnut pesto and stracciatella; cicory greens ripassta and an autumn salad. With our meal, we enjoyed a Lazio Tragugnano Orvieto DOC from Sergio Mottura vineyard, an organic white wine blend featuring, again, the Greccheto varietal.

III. On Rome's Edge: Ostia, Fiumicino, and Isola Sacra

Everyone knows of Rome, the Eternal City, for its deep history and archeological wonders. However, not too far out of town in the direction of Fiumicino airport lies a handful of remarkable sites that often go unnoticed. ⁠ If you are looking for even more impressive history and ruins without the crowds, check out Ostia Antica and Portus, two nearby Tiber River gateways for commerce and exchange during the Roman Empire.

These lesser known archeological ruins speak to the development and growth of Rome and form the cornerstone of a kind of “Rome you never knew” experience. To connect past to present, our itinerary also included encounters with passionate local people and projects highlighting the link between community, history and nature in and around the surrounding communities of Fiumicino and Isola Sacra.

Ostia Antica: The ancient Roman Empire…just outside Rome

Stroll the ancient streets, homes, theater and businesses of the once thriving ancient city of Ostia, known today as Ostia Antica. Although this site does not garner the attention (or crowds) of the top-tier archeological sites in nearby Rome, nor trigger the kind of emotion you might experience at Pompeii, the evidence of what life was like in this town some 2000 years ago astonishes due to its remarkable state of preservation. Marble-topped bars? Ostia Antica had them. Street food stalls? Those too. Maybe that's why Ostia Antica is considered among Rome's first colonies despite its proximity to Rome itself.

Portus (The Port of Claudius and the Harbor of Trajan)

Just down the road from Ostia Antica in the direction of Fiumicino (home to Rome's airport FCO) lies Portus and the Archaeological Area of the Imperial Harbours of Claudius and Trajan. Imagine the bustling ancient city of Portus while strolling the stone-quiet ruins of the Port of Claudius (42 AD) and Harbor of Trajan (100 AD).

Today, this archeological site is 3 km from the Mediterranean coastline, making it difficult to imagine that 2,000 years ago this artificial, hexagon-shaped harbor was fully submerged and served as Rome's main port to the Mediterranean Sea.

Goods arriving by sea were unloaded at the port and harbor, then transferred to smaller boats on the Tiber River to take to Rome. This configuration allowed Rome access to the Mediterranean Sea along with a layer of protection.

Portus grew in such size and importance that it received the status of an independent city in the 4th century. However, history consigned the port to disuse. Much of it remains undiscovered, quite literally underground, so one can only imagine what lies underneath the airport and the nearby towns of Fiumicino and Isola Sacra.

Explore the ancient tombs at the Necropolis of Portus

If you wish to understand the ancients, understand how they honored, buried and stored their dead.

The Necropolis of Portus in Isola Sacra is a vast cemetery dating from the 1st century A.D. Although the well-off at the time could afford mausoleums and tombs whose epic mosaic floors remain intact even today, workers from the Roman port and harbor and tradesmen of various crafts were relegated to packed burial niches and much tighter quarterage.

The site is absolutely worth a visit. The necropolis and its surroundings combines the tranquility you'd expect from a burial site with the wonder and story of a cache of archaeological ruins offering a glimpse into the lives and livelihoods of those who helped build the surrounding history.

Eat and drink local in Fiumicino

For lunch on the Tiber River near a marina in Fiumicino, we enjoyed 4112 – QuarantunoDodici Restaurant, a more laid back bistro version of the Michelin-starred Il Tino restaurant upstairs

Resisting an urge to try everything on the menu, we reined it in and opted for a palate cleansing starter, the merluzzo (salted codfish) and red beet carpaccio dashed with raspberry vinegar. Appreciating the scratch pad of the seven local species of fresh fish on offer, we shared a whole sarago, a kind of Mediterranean bream not to be confused with either branzino or orata. Distinct, tasty and light. We went bold and paired it all with a Fioranello Bianco from Lazio.

When we were in Fiumicino poking around the Port of Claudius and Harbor of Trajan, we stopped by nearby Bioagricola Traiano for lunch. The restaurant is located on the edge of its organic garden, chicken hut and bee hives so you can imagine the source of many of the ingredients you see on the regularly changing menu.

We opted for a couple of appetizers and pasta dishes, including fried polenta over cicoria greens and homemade pasta with zucchini pesto. Meals are visually appealing and tasty enough, but portions are big and hearty so beware of over-ordering as we did.

Meet a local historian at Museo della Cultura Contadina

⁠Past and present come together at the Museo della Cultura Contadina in Isola Sacra. Our host, Oswaldo, shared the history of the area and how it had been transformed from a swamp — they literally drained the swamp — into a productive tract of agricultural land during the early-to-mid-20th century.

He is one of the few remaining descendants who still lives there. Through the museum he works with the community to preserve the story of the establishment of the area as an economic development opportunity and enticement to Italian World War I veterans from around Italy to settle and work the land after the world wars.

Check out the Pietro Micca steam tugboat

Along the Tiber River as it readies to spill into the Tyrrhenian Sea, Giulio, the passionate owner of the Pietro Micca steam tugboat, keeps a piece of maritime history and heritage alive to illustrate the evolution of technologies and energy use.

The Pietro Micca dates back to 1895 and has known many incarnations, including its original role as a tugboat, then support ship for an American military base in Naples. Most recently it served as a traveling, floating modern-day sustainability education program run by Giulio and his family.

Although the operations of the ship are not currently sustainable since its steam is generated by diesel, Giulio remarks that “we need to remember and understand where we were and are [in terms of sustainability and energy] to know where we're going.” In fact, his vision of sustainable evolution for the ship includes its eventual conversion to electric power. That would be something.

Birdwatch at LIPU Oasis and witness the regeneration of nature

Two decades ago, Alex Polinori of LIPU Oasis (Centro Habitat Mediterraneo Ostia) set off to turn a garbage dump into a suburban oasis and a thriving home for migratory birds. Since then, he and his team have planted over 7,000 trees and helped reclaim a patch of once disregarded wetlands that now attracts a fast-growing list of migratory bird species and local wildlife.

LIPU Ostia is a case study in natural land reclamation and regenerative tourism. If you are bird enthusiast, it's worth the effort to time your visit with that of the visiting birds' migratory patterns.

To optimize the atmosphere of the wetlands, it's only possible to watch the birds through two bird hides. The hides provide birdwatchers an opportunity to enjoy the birds in their natural environment without disturbing them. Depending upon the time of year you may see an unusual and wide array of birds and water fowl including flamingos, pelicans, rare Europeans duck species, woodpeckers, and more.

Sentiero Pasolini and Regina Ciclarium: A return to Rome

From Ostia and the coast, human civilization yields again to nature. As it does, reeds and thickets have been cleared along the hand-marked Sentiero Pasolini (Pasolini Path). Pier Paolo Pasolini, whose name comes up often throughout the itinerary, was a prolific poet and film director, perhaps most well-known for his film Mamma Roma (1962). For the first-timer, Pasolini is difficult to grok: in parts folk, suburban, spiritual, philosophical, and wary and weary from his time in the war. Controversial, thoughtful. And unfortunately, a voice snuffed out by murder (and some say assassination) in 1975.

The Pasolini Path yields to the Regina Ciclarium as it winds its way through the suburbs of Rome, by street art caches, and over and around old bridges and Tiber River infrastructure from the Roman Empire. The paths, for cyclists and hikers alike, are community-maintained and in full disclosure, a work in progress.

After navigating and emerging from what felt like a time warp, we found ourselves somehow startled to be staring at the Roman Colosseum. From there, we wound our way further past the imposing yet human scale of history, through to more polished neighborhoods and the touristic center city Rome.

In many ways, we'd completed the cycle.

Disclosure: The experiences above were provided to us in conjunction with a Lazio Region-funded consulting project with Thybris River Experience entailing product advisory, product marketing and destination positioning. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

The post Exploring Lazio: Off-the-Beaten Path Italy Outside Rome appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Whether you’re traveling to St. Maarten / St. Martin as a standalone Caribbean island vacation or as an excursion from a cruise, you'll be sure to find something from our travel guide below with our favorite boat trips, outdoor activities, hikes, beaches, and day trips to make your visit memorable.

Visiting the Caribbean Island of St. Maarten / St. Martin

At the end of the year as winter days grew shorter and the Christmas holidays approached, we set our sights on checking in with each other before we found ourselves immersed in the uptake of a new year. Taking off to the Caribbean to spend some time together away from our laptops, reflect on the past year and take a deep breath before a busy year ahead was just what we needed.

It was with this frame of mind that we left our home base in Berlin mid-December for St. Maarten, the Dutch side of an island in the Caribbean divided in two with its French counterpart St. Martin.

While we weren't fully disconnected from the internet and the world during our time on St. Maarten, we found that removing ourselves from all that was familiar and routine — and giving ourselves a dose of sunshine and warmth — helped us to relax, gain some perspective, and enjoy time together as an ordinary married couple (i.e., not as business partners). Not to mention, a sort of decompression seems to occur naturally when staring out over water to the horizon for long periods of time.

In this way, pressing the pause button from time to time in one’s life creates space to disconnect, reconnect and to clarify what matters most.

Note: This post was originally published in February 2016 and updated in December 2024.

Going Off the Beaten Path in St. Maarten / St. Martin

The idea of this trip, as with most of our travels, was to go beyond the obvious — in this case, the beaches. This involved exploring both sides of the island — Dutch St. Maarten in the south and French St. Martin to the north – and following suggestions, on and off the tourist trail, to experiences that would move us.

The cliché of white sand Caribbean beaches stretching along dazzling, turquoise water is far too accurate. We were tempted to park ourselves on one of the several we sampled, and never leave. But we also knew there was more to discover and things to do in St. Maarten than appears on the surface.

Next, we would be fibbing if we told you that St. Maarten / St. Martin is not heavily touristy. It would be very easy to visit and only see the developed and trafficked areas of the island and draw your experience and conclusions from there, but dig a bit deeper and you’ll find a dimension to the island that few others see. On several occasions we found ourselves surrounded by rugged natural beauty, without a soul around.

We enabled our experience of St. Maarten in full by talking with as many people as we could. Our goal: to connect with and better understand this island of 80,000 inhabitants that welcomes an astonishing 3.7 million travelers a year, and to uncover a diversity of experiences that speak to both adventure and relaxation.

That’s where this travel guide filled with unusual things to do in St. Maarten / St. Martin comes in. Pick and choose from the experiences below to piece together a St. Maarten travel itinerary that best suits your travel goals and interests, from boat trips to beaches to hiking to adventure activities.

18 Unusual Things to Do, See and Experience in St. Maarten / St. Martin

As you go through our recommended boat trips, beaches, hikes, tours, and things to do in Saint Maarten / Saint Martin below you'll notice that they are mostly activities that take place outdoors, in nature and away from crowds. This reflects what we did and our personal recommendations.

Some of the following experiences and activities we paid for ourselves and some were provided free to us (as indicated below). Some we learned about by talking with locals or long-time residents, and others we discovered on our own. In other words, we tried to learn as much as we could about St. Maarten/St. Martin and experience it to the fullest in the ten days we had.

A note on costs: Prices for experiences vary slightly depending upon season (high or low), number of people in the group, and other factors. Legend: $ = up to $50, $$ = $50-$100, $$$ = $100-$150, $$$$ = $150+

1. Race at sea and take the controls of a real America's Cup boat with the 12-Metre Challenge.

Yes, this experience can take you on THE winning boat from the 1987 America’s Cup, the Stars & Stripes. This alone is kind of exciting. Board the boat, and each of your group is assigned a crew position. From there, you get a quick lesson, you practice a bit, the helmsman issues the commands and with a traditional 6-minute start, it’s off to the races.

You witness and participate firsthand in the teamwork required to make a craft like this take flight on the water. This became even more evident – and dramatic — as we sailed right into a brief tropical storm with the wind whipping the sails and our boat carving slightly terrifying angles.

What really set this experience apart, however, was the competition. We raced against another America’s Cup boat (True North, from Canada) under standard regatta regulations, giving us a wee taste of the adrenaline of an actual race.

The only danger with this experience is that it may make you want to take sailing lessons and rent your own sailboat to go around the Caribbean. Not that we speak from experience or anything…

If you only have one day in St. Maarten as an excursion from your cruise, consider this activity. It has the right mix of adrenaline, being out on the open waters and fun.

How to do it: The 12 Metre Challenge is located at Dock Maarten, Philipsburg. Note: Cruise ship passengers must book through their cruise line. Cost: $$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

2. Day trip to Shoal Bay, Anguilla to relax on the #1 ranked beach in the Caribbean.

On our first day in St. Maarten we heard Shoal Bay beach described to us as “heaven on earth.” That the recommendation came from a long-time resident with experience throughout the Caribbean told us we must go. But we’ve been to plenty of “best beaches,” so we managed our expectations.

Shoal Bay Beach over-delivered. Not only was the beach a carpet of soft, pristine white sand, but the light and water played a range of blue shades of the likes we’d never before seen, except for glaciers in Antarctica. The blue glow can appear almost artificial and HDR’d, but it’s not. It’s simply the way Mother Nature worked out in this part of the world. Now we understand why this beach is ranked #1 in the Caribbean and #5 worldwide.

The other notable feature of this beach during our visit: it was almost empty. The restaurant where our tour went was a simple, local family-run establishment, which lent a fitting and traditional laid-back Caribbean feel.

How to do it: We took a day trip package that included a speedboat from St. Maarten (dock near the airport) to Anguilla + bus transfer to/from Shoal Bay + lunch + free use of beach equipment such as snorkel gear and paddle boards. Cost: $$$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

Other day trip options to Anguilla from St. Maarten include:

• Catamaran to Prickly Pear and Anguilla islands (8 hours): This day trip sails along the coast of St. Maarten and visits both Prickly Pear and Anguilla Islands so you can swim in the clear waters and enjoy the beaches in both places. Departs in the morning from Simpson Bay. Price includes a BBQ lunch.
• Private speed boat from St. Maarten to Anguilla (8 hours): Enjoy a private excursion to Anguilla to enjoy the beauty of Shoal Bay beach and nearby Sandy Island and the clear waters of Crocus Bay. Enjoy complementary champagne and drinks. You'll have flexibility with your day as you'll have your own captain and guide to help create a memorable private trip experience.
• Speed boat day trip to Anguilla (6 hours) that includes stops in Cap Juluca, Sandy Island, and Little Bay in Anguilla to go swimming and enjoy lunch (included in price). On the return you stop by Maho Beach in St. Maarten to watch the planes land just above you at the airport (see #3 above). Departs in the morning from Cole Bay, St. Maarten.

Remember that Anguilla is a different country so be sure to bring your passport and $20 for the clearance and customs fees.

3. Get away from it all with a hike in Guana Bay.

It’s easy to get caught up in St. Maarten tourist trail areas and question, “Is this all there is to the island?” However, a short drive over the hill to the southeastern corner of the island and Guana Bay served as our first glance at a different sort of St. Maarten / St. Martin.

The trek from Guana Bay to Pointe Blanche is one of the areas on the island where you'll find yourself surrounded by rugged natural beauty without a soul around, save perhaps for a few goats.

How to do it: You can do this Guana Bay hike with Tri-Sport. They offer a couple of departures each day during high season. We recommend choosing the morning departure (9AM) as you’ll avoid the strong heat and sunshine. Joost, our guide, provided terrific historical and environmental context. Not to mention, he’s a font of useful information and recommendations for other treks in St. Maarten. Cost: $ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

4. Drive a Rhino along the western coast of St. Martin.

“I designed this myself and it’s impossible to tip. That’s why we call it a Rhino,” Oliver, the owner of Rhino Safaris explained when we first arrived. He did this so that everyone – from children to 90+ year olds – could enjoy the experience.

I had memories of tipping a jet ski on a college break many years ago, so I was of relieved to find out this hybrid Jet Ski/zodiac could not be flipped. It took a few minutes to get used to the Rhino and what it could do in terms of speed, turns, and tricks, but once we did, it was fun and addictive.

Additionally, having spent time sitting in traffic driving the western part of the island, it was a pleasant change to enjoy the same areas from the freedom of the water.

How to do it: The “Rhino Safari” departs from Simpson Bay just behind Pineapple Pete’s restaurant. The tour includes not only driving your own Rhino up the western coast, but also snorkeling at Creole Rock at the northern end of the island. Cost: $$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

5. Marvel at the planes landing over Maho Bay beach.

Never have we been to a destination where the airport is such a tourist attraction. But sit on or near the beach at Maho Bay and you’ll quickly understand why. The photo below pretty much says it all. It looks Photoshopped, but it’s not.

How to do it: While you can stand on the beach to watch the planes land overhead, we recommend Sunset Bar as an ideal spot to capture a photo without the jet blast. The surfboard outside the bar is updated daily with the flight schedule. Or you can check out the arrival schedule at SXM airport and try to figure out which flights will have the biggest planes.

Good looks can also be had from Driftwood Bar on the other side of the beach. Air France flies the largest jets (i.e., most dramatic landings and photos).

Book a tour to watch the planes land over Maho Bay: If you have limited time in St. Maarten, consider booking a plane viewing day trip that will transfer you from the port in Philipsburg to Maho Bay so you can enjoy some time on the beach and see the planes landing. Alternatively, you can arrange a half-day trip in St. Maarten that will take you to Orient Beach and then to watch the planes at Maho Bay.

6. Enjoy the sunset and a rum punch on a catamaran.

There’s something naturally calming about staring out over the sea at a sunset as the glow of the sun melts into the water. Now, do that same thing with from the webbed deck of a catamaran with a rum punch in your hand and you’ll find yourself exhaling – literally and figuratively — even deeper.

How to do it: Aquamania offers sunset and dinner catamaran trips on Wednesday and Friday evenings, departing from Simpson Bay Resort marina at 5:30 PM and returning at 8:30 PM. Alternatively, you can choose this shorter sunset cruise (1.5 hours) with daily departures that includes drinks and snacks, but not a full dinner. Cost: $$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

7. Wake up early and go for a run (or stroll) at Cupecoy Bay and enjoy a Caribbean beach all to yourself.

If running isn’t your thing, then swap it with walking or cycling. Whatever you do, get up early and head to the cliffs. You’ll be rewarded not only with the soft glow of early morning light, but also with a Caribbean beach to yourself.

8. Get above it all at Pic Paradis.

There is something about making your way to the highest point to get some perspective. Having an aerial view of St. Maarten (and St. Martin) from the lookout at Pic Paradis, the highest point on the island at 1,391ft / 424m, helps you see the contours of the land and how all of the places you’ve visited fit together.

How to do it: In our rental car we followed the Pic Paradis signs from the main road between Marigot and Grand Case and parked on the side of the road up the hill from Loterie Farm (it was closed the day we visited, Monday). From there it was a relatively short, but steep, walk to the top. Alternatively, if you have a 4-wheel-drive car you can drive virtually the entire way to the peak and lookout.

9. Cross the border and practice your French.

One of the things that attracted us to St. Maarten/St. Martin was that the island has been divided between the French and the Dutch for over 350 years. Today, the Dutch side is an independent country, while the French side remains a territory of France. We wondered what that would look and feel like.

While there are no border controls between the sides and countries, you’ll still see signs posted across the island welcoming you each time you cross. Cross from the Dutch side north and you’ll have a chance to practice your French. You’ll also see a different style of architecture and town planning. Not to mention, the bread and pastries are unsurprisingly better on the French side of the border.

10. Chill out at Mullet Bay beach.

There is no shortage of postcard-like beaches to choose from on the island. One of our favorites for relaxing, swimming and sunning was Mullet Bay. Since there's a golf course on one side of the beach, it is somewhat protected from development and the shadow of any large buildings.

Of course, we aren’t the only ones to have discovered this beach. But, we noticed that if we went before noon or after 3PM it emptied as day passengers returned to the cruise ships. Ideal for a morning read or late afternoon nap.

A note on St. Maarten / St. Martin beaches: All beaches on the island are public, meaning that you have access to try any one you’d like. Some beaches have sun chairs and umbrellas for hire, usually organized by restaurants or bars, but you have the right to plunk your beach towel at random and enjoy the beach for free.

11. Bicycle to Fort Amsterdam.

With so much of St. Maarten covered in new buildings and developments (something like 90% of the island was destroyed by Hurricane Luis in 1995), we were curious to learn more about its history and the strategic role the island played in the colonial wrangling between the Spanish, Dutch and French empires over the centuries. This is where the historical bicycle tour of Philipsburg with Barend, our guide, helped fill in the gaps.

One of the focal points of the bicycle tour is 17th century Fort Amsterdam, originally built by the Dutch, then lost to the Spanish and successfully defended to ward off a return Dutch invasion. The Dutch leader from that lost the fight (and his right leg), Peter Stuyvesant, went on to become mayor of New Amsterdam. Eventually he traded New Amsterdam (now, New York) to the British for the wee island of Curacao, in perhaps the very first of the worst of Wall Street deals. This story reinforces how the islands are historically more connected to our present day circumstances than we realize.

Additionally, the bicycle tour takes you through Back Street, Philipsburg. While the souvenir shops and tourist restaurants in Philipsburg harbor and Front Street may feel overwhelming, this residential area just a few blocks away will give you a sense of what the island might have looked like before the rebuilding and tourism boom. Many traditional homes have remained in the hands of the same family for multiple generations.

How to do it: The historical bicycle tour with TriSport leaves from the cruise ship harbor in Philipsburg. There’s a choice of several departures, but we recommend taking the early one (8:30 AM) to beat the heat and the crowds. If you would like a more challenging ride, check out the other bicycle tours offered. Cost: $-$$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

12. Scuba dive at Saba island and swim with sea turtles in coral gardens.

“I’m sorry. It looks like visibility isn’t as great as it usually is,” Bob, our dive master, apologized to us before we descended to the dive site known as Tent Reef.

A few minutes later we swam over coral gardens bursting with colorful coral and fish. We encountered sea turtles noshing on jelly fish, and saw puffer, parrot and lion fish dart in and around the reef. I thought: “Hmm, if this is considered ‘bad' visibility, I can’t imagine what ‘good' must look like.”

Diving in Saba was a top priority for us as we’d heard that the dive sites there are considered some of the best in the Caribbean. It took a little logistical juggling, but we did find a way to combine two dives there within a day trip from St. Maarten. The only downside of this plan is that you don’t have time to explore the island itself. There are supposed to be some gorgeous coastal treks, so consider extending your Saba trip to several days.

How to go scuba diving in Saba: There are ferries that offer day trips from St. Maarten to Saba that run most days in high season. Edge offers a day trip package to Saba with round-trip ferry service, hiking and the option for scuba diving. Makana Ferry goes to Saba in the late afternoon/early evening in case you want to spend a couple of nights there. The ride takes 1.5 hours and can get rough. If you get seasick easily, consider taking some motion sickness medicine or carry Sea Bands.

We arranged our dive in advance with Saba Divers. They meet you at the ferry, check your Padi certification, gear you up, manage two dives, and get you back to the ferry for the late afternoon return to St. Maarten. Fun and experienced dive masters. Cost: $$$$

Saba Covid Travel Requirements (November 2022): No requirements now for proof of vaccination, negative test or EHAS form.

How to go scuba diving in St. Maarten: If you want to go diving, but don't have the time to go all the way to Saba for the day consider doing a half-day double tank drive in St. Maarten instead. The dive staff will choose the dive site based on weather and visibility that morning so that you're diving in optimum conditions. If you haven't been diving within the last year, it's recommended to start with a shallow dive as a refresher.

If you don't have your PADI certificate, but want to get a feel for scuba diving and being underwater, then you can do a 3-hour Discover Scuba tour that introduces you to scuba diving and all of its gear in shallow waters. This is a great way to test out scuba diving in clear Caribbean waters.

13. Taste rum at a local distillery.

“I used to experiment with flavored rums in my kitchen to make gifts for friends or for guests at my husband’s restaurant. After I decided to do this professionally, I taught myself enough Mandarin to navigate the factories in China to get the bottle design exactly as I wanted it. I’ve always been hands-on,” Melanie, co-founder of Topper’s Rhum, laughed as she explained the genesis of her rum business.

Teaching yourself “enough” Mandarin is no easy feat, but this focus on detail fit with what we saw and tasted during our visit to the distillery.

Melanie has been successful with her current lineup of white, spiced, coconut and flavored rums like white chocolate raspberry. Her experiences continue with new flavors in her office-cum-laboratory. The coconut rum was our favorite for drinking straight, but we later sampled the Mocha Mama (think Kahlua without the cream) over vanilla ice cream. Nice!

How to do it: Topper’s Rhum now offers distillery tours for the public. Otherwise, you can sample (and buy) any of the rums at one of the two Topper’s restaurants.

14. Practice Your Tanning Skills at Orient Bay.

On our first night in St. Maarten we asked our waitress, Samantha, which beach on the island was her favorite. Her quick response: “Orient Bay. I didn’t realize how lucky we are to have this beach until I left the island and visited other places. I love it.”

Located on the French side of the island east, the beach at Orient Bay is long, wide and lined with restaurants and cafes that offer beach chairs and umbrellas. It’s more of a place to “be seen” than Mullet Bay, but it’s not too over-the-top. It also features beach segments that are clothing optional, so if nude bathing is your thing, this is the place to be…or to be seen.

15. Enjoy scenes of local life in Grand Case.

Grand Case is on the French side of the island and has more of a local feel to it than some of the other areas of the island that have been built up for tourism. It's a good place to park your car and wander the streets and pier for these glimpses of local life…like school kids jumping off the pier or playing in the surf along the beach.

There is something so light and innocent about the scene. Listen to the giggles and feel the energy. An inimitable local sight and memory.

How to do it: Park your car in the public parking lot on the north end of the main street in Grand Case. Walk out by the pier behind the cluster of outdoor grill restaurants. Plenty of food options here, too, from the informal grills at the beach side to more formal French restaurant options along what is known as “Restaurant Row.”

16. Kayak through the mega yacht harbor to the mangroves.

St. Maarten is one of THE places in the Caribbean for yachts and boats of the “mega” variety to be docked. So it’s a fun juxtaposition – not to mention great perspective — to paddle through the nautical playground of the rich and famous before coming back down to earth with the jellyfish and sea cucumbers in the mangroves.

How to do it: Tri-Sport usually offers a lagoon kayak tour a couple of times a day. We recommend choosing either the early morning or late afternoon option to avoid the heat of the midday sun. Chris, one of the guides, is a St. Maarten local so he can advise you on anything you might want to know about the island, including local food. Cost: $-$$ Disclosure: This experience was provided to us as media.

Grab a Johnny Cake at Hilma’s and ask her about Anthony Bourdain and her 40+ years on the island.

Update: Hilma's Windsor Castle was destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017. We are keeping the entry below in honor of Hilma, her spirit…and her johnny cakes.

Although a separate section below is devoted to recommended dining and island eats, we include Hilma’s (technically, Hilma’s Windsor Castle) because eating at one of the four stools is an experience well beyond the food. Hilma has been operating from a converted trailer on the same spot in Simpson Bay for 22 years, and she’s lived on the island for more than 40. She purposely keeps operations deliberately small and personal for manageability. She has so many stories to tell, so plan some time for a conversation or two.

“I was all by myself when I first started here. None of this was here,” Hilma told us as she looked out over the road now filled to the brim on both sides with restaurants and shops. When we asked her about Anthony Bourdain, she confirmed, “Yes, he used to come here often. He vacationed here before he became really famous. He’s eaten everything here. The advice he gave me was to not change, that I should stay true to my roots.”

Sage advice.

How to do it: You can find Hilma’s Windsor Castle on the lot between the RBC Bank and Jerusalem / The Palms restaurants on Airport Road in Simpson Bay. Hilma is open Monday to Saturday from 7:30AM – 2:00PM.

17. Hike the northern coastline at Sentier des Froussards.

This hike and the northern coastline of St. Martin falls under the “hidden” and “I had no idea something like this existed on the island” categories. We woke up early to do the trek Sentier de Froussards hike (from Anse Marcel to Eastern Point and back) during our last morning on the island. A rather ideal way to end our travels in St. Maartin / St. Martin.

The hike consists of a surprisingly beautiful and secluded 3-mile footpath out along the northern coast of the island and features a couple of bathing-worthy beaches, rugged coastline and fabulous windswept landscape.

How to do it: Big thanks to Joost from TriSport for recommending this trek to us. Drive towards Anse Marcel and after coming over the big hill (and before entering the marina and resort area) turn to the right where you see a small trekking sign and parking lot.

You’ll walk a ways on a dirt road before reaching the trailhead on the right. Go very early (arrive around 7:30AM) to avoid the traffic and heat. En route to Anse Marcel from the south, fetch yourself a pain au chocolat or croissant from the boulangerie on the right side of the N7 main road in Grand Case.

18. Throw open the curtains at sunrise…and realize how fortunate you are.

This began my morning routine. I noticed it most on that final day, perhaps because it marked the final time I would feel it this trip.

It was the combination of the sound of the curtains moving on their track along with the reveal of the morning, the water, the horizon, the sun, a new day. The sensory combination of sight and sound of our morning routine foreshadowed the day to come and offered a moment to reflect on what we have, here and now.

This is a lesson for life. One reaffirmed on the island.

Day Trips and Excursions in St. Maartin / St. Martin

Our partners, Get Your Guide and Viator, offer many St. Maarten tours, day trips and tickets for attractions. They guarantee lowest prices with no booking fees or hidden charges, as well as information on Covid hygiene and safety precautions. In addition to confirming your place and avoiding lines by pre-booking, you can cancel up to 24 hours before in case your plans change.

Although we've made quite a few recommendations above for activities, excursions and tay trips, we also wanted to share some other interesting St. Maarten tours and day trips.

• Speed boat tour around St. Maarten and St. Martin with snorkeling, beaches and lunch: This 6-hour tour around St. Maarten by speed boat takes you to both the Dutch and French sides. You'll have a chance to visit Tintamarre, an uninhabited island within the French Nature Reserve, that is only accessible by boat where you'll have a chance to see sea turtles and sting rays. Other stops include Pinel Island to swim and enjoy a relaxing lunch under palm trees, Creole Rock for snorkeling, Mullet Bay for another stunning beach, and finally to see the jets land over your head at Princess Juliana International Airport (see above).
• Private charter catamaran trip around St. Maarten: Perfect for families or groups of friends traveling together who want a bit of privacy and luxury. This is a full-day charter (9 hours) that not only includes stops with snorkeling and swimming at Tintamarre Island, Long Bay La Samana, and Happy Bay, but also a gourmet 4-course lunch and open bar. If you're thinking of a splurge during your visit to St. Maarten, this is a good choice.
• Day tour around St. Martin / St. Maarten with a local guide: This 5-hour tour around both the French and Dutch sides of the island with a local guide sounds quite interesting as it focuses on topics related to the history and resilience of the island and its people, especially as the island was badly destroyed recently during Hurricaine Irma. It stops in several places on the French side like Grand Case, Marigot, and Fort St. Louis, as well as Maho Bay and Philipsburg on the Dutch side.
• Sailing and Snorkeling Trip Along St. Martin's Coast (5 hours): If you want to maximize your time on the water and see St. Martin / St. Maarten from the sea, this sailing day trip on a trimaran (i.e., it has three hulls vs. two as in a catamaran) is a good option. The journey will take you up the southwestern coast of St. Martin and up the Anguilla Channel, and you'll stop along the way for swimming and snorkeling. Departs from Nowhere Special Restaurant right next to the St. Maarten Yacht Club. Lunch included.
• St. Maarten hiking and snorkeling nature tour (4 hours): This nature tour combines a couple of our recommendations above – going up to Pic Paradis for panoramic views, taking a hike or nature walk, and snorkeling in the clear waters below — in a nice half-day time period. With your local guide you'll have a chance to learn a bit more about the island's biodiversity and the different species of animals above and below water. A good and active introduction to the island's nature if you are on an excursion or only have a short time.

Where to Stay in St. Maarten / St. Martin

For the ten days we visited St. Maarten, our home was the Morgan Resort (previously, the Alegria Boutique Hotel) in Maho Bay, just walking distance from the famous beach where airplanes fly overhead to land at the Princess Juliana airport (See #4 above).

From what we can tell on the Morgan Resort website, the rooms have been renovated and upgraded considerably, into more of a luxury stay. There are still some suites available if you want a bit more room. Book a room at Morgan Resort Spa and Village.

St. Maarten Hotels and Apartments

Whether you are traveling to St. Maarten as a standalone vacation or starting your cruise from there, you may want to stay on the Dutch side of the island for a few days. The St. Maarten hotels and apartments below are conveniently located and in quieter, less developed areas. We think of them as good places to base yourself to explore the island.

Hotels in Maho Bay – Cupecoy Bay – Simpson Bay

These locations are all pretty close to the airport. We enjoyed staying in Maho Bay as it was a bit removed from a lot of the more built up areas and we had easy access to Mullet Bay and Cupecoy Bay beaches. Plus, we could always pop down to one of the nearby bars to see the planes land overhead at the airport. Not many activities start in Maho Bay, so t means that you'll need to add in driving or transfer time at the beginning and end of the day. Some of the activities and tours above start in or near Simpson Bay so it is a bit closer.

• El Zafiro Boutique Hotel: This is very close to where we stayed in St. Maarten and is located right on the beach so you'll have good views of both the coast and mountains from your room. Convenient for watching planes land at SXM airport.
• Adonis Cupecoy Hotel: Located in a good position not far from Cupecoy Bay (see #2 above), Maho Bay (see #4) and Simpson Bay with some restaurants and shopping nearby, but it's still a quieter, less developed part of St. Maarten.
• The Horny Toad Guest House: If you want your own apartment or studio with a kitchenette, seating area and terrace, then this is a good option right on Simpson Bay Beach. Close to the airport and you are walking distance from local restaurants.

Hotels in Philipsburg and Eastern St. Maarten

The little town of Philipsburg might be a fun place to base yourself as it has some historic areas, a beach and nearby restaurants and shops you can walk to. Plus, you're not too far from Guana Bay Beach (see #3 above) and can explore Fort Amsterdam easily. If you're coming to St. Maarten early for a cruise, Philipsburg is conveniently located near the cruise terminal and port.

• Alicia Inn: A good budget option right in the middle of Philipsburg so close to the restaurants, shops and beach. Public transport is also located nearby if you don't have a car and want to explore by local bus.
• Bay View Apartment: A little outside of town in the hills with views over Great Bay and the Atlantic Ocean below. This is a full apartment so you have everything you need to feel at home on the island. A good place if you want a bit of quiet and privacy.

St. Martin Hotels and Apartments: Staying on the French Side

Next time we visit the island we might stay on the French side for a change of pace as there is less tourism development and fewer big resorts.

• Sunshine Studios, Grand Case: Although our time in Grand Case was short, we really liked the feel of the place as it had more of a local lived in vibe than many of the other more tourism oriented places on the island. And, it's near “Restaurant Row” if you want to enjoy some French cuisine on your visit to St. Martin. The studios here also include kitchens so you can also enjoy self-catering and eating on your balcony.
• Happy Residence, Orient Bay: Located on Orient Bay Beach, one of our favorite beaches on the island. The apartment has a kitchen and everything you need, but it is also located walking distance to other restaurants and shops.
• Tiko Lodge, Oyster Pond: In the eastern side of the island close to Babit Point Natural Reserve, which is good for hiking, and not far from Orient Bay. The lodge offers rooms or apartments, and views over the water. Although quiet and remote, there are still restaurants nearby that are walking distance.

Where to Eat in St. Maarten

As we stayed in St. Maarten, the Dutch side of the island, we took all of our meals there. Much of the food in this part of the island is international, a reflection of both the people who now call this island home and the demographic of the tourists that visit it.

If you are interested in traditional French cuisine, however, then head up to “Restaurant Row” in Grand Case on the northwestern side of the island in St. Martin. We didn’t have the opportunity to eat there during this trip as were often there too early for dinner, but the menus posted outside were very similar to what you might see in France.

Long-time European residents confirmed the quality of the restaurants in Grand Case is also top notch and recommended: Auberge Gourmande, Bistro Caribe, Sol e Luna, Ocean 82 and Tastevin. Our quick look at the Auberge Gourmande menu told us this is the place we’d likely visit, but we might be swayed by what is fresh and the plat du jour elsewhere.

Top Carrot, Simpson Bay

Vegetarians and vegans delight. If salads, vegetables, juices and healthy eating are your thing then this is your place. The focus at Top Carrot: fresh ingredients, either grown on the island (when possible) or just off the boat from nearby Dominica. Specials change daily.

After each meal, not only were we truly satisfied, but we also left feeling as though we’d done our bodies a favor. The French co-owner, Lydia, is usually there and has some great stories from living on the island for 20+ years. She’s exceedingly kind, too.

Recommended dishes: Baked goat cheese (St Marcellin) salad, veggie wrap and mahi mahi with passion fruit sauce and caramelized onions (daily special, was terrific). Where to find Top Carrot Restaurant: 3200 W South Airport Rd (near Simpson Bay Marina), Simpson Bay.

The Palms, Simpson Bay

What happens when a Canadian Trinidadian opens restaurant in St Maarten? You get Caribbean favorites like drunken ribs and Trinidadian bites served in a Canadian (and Torontonian) paraphernalia flair. You get The Palms. Greg, the owner, and his mother change the menu daily based on what’s fresh. He's also a great resource for other restaurant recommendations and tips for the island.

Recommended dishes: Drunken ribs and pholourie, spiced split pea flour puff fritters with house special cumin-tamarind sauce. Rib portions are large, so consider splitting one between two people or pair with an appetizer instead of a 2nd main dish.

Where to find The Palms restaurant: 25 Airport Road in Simpson Bay (near RBC Bank).

Sunset Bar, Maho Bay

Sunset Bar features a prime location next to Maho Bay beach, making it the viewing lounge of choice for oglers of airplanes landing at SXM airport (see #4 above). It’s also good for sunset gazing with a drink in hand.

Recommended dishes: Most people come here to drink rather than eat, but we found the seared tuna atop salad greens to be really abundant, nicely-cooked and fresh. Consider asking for the dressing on the side.

Where to find it: Maho Bay, just behind the runway for the airport. Disclosure: Our first meal here was provided to us.

Driftwood Boat Bar, Maho Bay

If you’re looking for a tasty, cheap eats on St. Maarten, we can vouch for the chicken schwarma sandwich at Driftwood Boat Bar. A healthy chunk of grilled, spiced chicken covered with lots of vegetables and dressing.

The location also offers another venue to watch the planes land at the airport in case the Sunset Bar on the other end of Maho Bay is packed. Where to find the Driftwood Boat Bar: Maho Bay, west side, just behind the runway.

Planning a Trip to St. Maarten / St. Martin

One island, two countries, no border.

While the island is divided into two countries, there are no border controls between them. The Dutch side is home to the major international airport (SXM, Princess Juliana) and cruise ship port, so it services most of the visitors coming to the island. However, there is a smaller airport, SFG (L’Esperance Airport Grand-Case) on the French side. To understand one difference, as residents tell us, “The Dutch side takes more influence from the United States. Anything goes here.”

The French side is technically part of France, so it adheres to E.U. requirements. This means that building and development is more regulated; you'll often find fewer crowds.

Renting a car in St. Maarten

St. Maarten is a relatively small island (34 square miles), but if you’re interested in doing a variety of activities as we did, a rental car is essential. There's plenty of rental car competition on the island, so prices are decent, starting from around $30-$40/day for the economy cars. Gas/petrol prices are currently pretty reasonable, particularly by European standards.

One caveat: traffic on the island can be bad and stressful, and parking can be equally challenging. Ask locals about traffic patterns, timing and rush hours up front so you can plan your route and schedule your outings to minimize irritation.

Disclosure: Our rental car was provided by Empress Rental Car just near the Princess Juliana airport. We had a simple rental car that got us around the island with no problems.

Note: We also find that Skyscanner offers good rental car prices for St. Maarten / St. Martin.

Public Transportation and Taxis on St. Maarten

If you don’t plan to explore the island much (i.e., you're focused on a nearby beach or all of your activities include a pickup or transfer), then consider taking the occasional taxi or flagging down one of the public transport minivans making their way around the island. There are plenty of both.

You can also easily book a shared airport transfer or private airport transfer from Princess Juliana airport (SXM) to your hotel so that you have someone waiting for you at the airport when you arrive.

Money in St. Maarten / St. Martin

The official currency of the French side is the Euro(€) while on the Dutch side it's the Netherlands Antillean Florin (NAF). Don’t bother taking out NAF from the ATM as all prices on the Dutch side are posted in $USD and every place accepts dollars. Most places on the French side will also accept $USD (often on a 1:1 basis with the Euro).

SIM card and mobile data on St. Maarten

We purchased a TelCell SIM card on the Dutch side for $15 and bought 500MB of data for an additional $10. However, mobile data does not work when you cross over to the French side. Although we have no experience with the UTS/Chippie, they are another option for SIM cards, calls and mobile data on the island.

When to visit St. Maarten / St. Martin

Our visit to St. Maarten/St. Martin was in mid-December. We found it just about perfect, as our timing was right before high season, which runs from just before Christmas (Dec. 22-ish) to the beginning of April. The weather during our visit was excellent – sunny and warm during the day, beautiful water temperatures, and breezy and temperate at night – and came with the added bonus of fewer crowds and reduced traffic.

We were told that August-October us usually incredibly hot and at the tail end of the hurricane season, so probably best to avoid that period. One long-time resident told us that his favorite season is April to June as it’s not too hot and high season crowds have begun to dissipate.

How to Travel to St. Maarten / St. Martin

Visiting St. Maarten / St. Martin on a Cruise

Many people visit the island as a day trip or excursion from a longer Caribbean cruise. This will provide you a taste of the island in a short period of time. In fact, many of the activities and tours recommended above are scheduled for cruise excursions so they pick you up at the port in morning and return you with plenty of time in the afternoon.

Traveling to St. Martin / St. Maarten as a Vacation

As you might have guessed from this article, we suggest visiting for longer than just a day trip as there is quite a lot to do and see in St. Maarten / St. Martin. You could do what we did and visit as a standalone vacation for 5-10 days, with side day trips to Anguilla and Saba islands. Or, you could combine a visit to St. Martin with other nearby Caribbean destinations for a multi-destination vacation.

Flying to St. Maarten

If you are flying to St. Maarten from Europe, there are usually direct connections from KLM and Air France. Coming from the United States there are quite a few airlines that fly into SXM airport like Jet Blue and American Airlines. You can check out flights to St. Maarten, including a comparison of airlines, prices and times of year, on Skyscanner.

St. Maarten Covid Entry Requirements

As of November 2022, St. Maarten / St. Martin island is open to travelers with no restrictions or Covid-19 entry requirements. However, be sure to check the official Saint Maarten Covid Travel Requirements website before your trip for the latest information and updates. Most of the international entry points to the island are on the Dutch side so it’s mostly likely that you will arrive on the island in St. Maarten and will need to follow these Covid entry requirements.

St. Martin Covid Entry Requirements

As Saint Martin is technically part of France, it has some similar Covid travel requirements. Although most international arrivals will be on the Dutch side (see above for St. Maarten), if you happen to arrive on the French side at St. Martin’s small airport (Grand Case Esperance SFG Airport) or a ferry port, you should check out the official St. Martin Covid travel requirements website for specifics and the most updated details.

The post Travel to St. Maarten: 18 Unusual Things to Do appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Prior to our visit, Bhutan was a destination that, for us, held the space of the protected, the preserved, the unknown.

Upon landing in Bhutan, we grasped how our experience would reflect that notion. We were removed physically but also mentally from the day-to-day, tucked away in this mysterious place. It is perhaps rather fitting that Bhutan was the last trip we took prior to the pandemic so that we were able to take away some of its lessons regarding the value of a community approach that by protecting others we protect ourselves and everyone benefits.

Covid-19 Update for Bhutan Travel: Bhutan opened its borders on 23 September, 2022 for all tourists without mandatory quarantines (check for updates). We know people who have already traveled there since this opening and had a very good experience.

Known as the Land of the Thunder Dragon because of the alpine storms which sweep in from the Himalayas, Bhutan understands the value of protecting itself — just as it did when marauding Tibetans historically rolled in from the plateau seeking coveted Buddhist relics. The Kingdom of Bhutan, forged from fortress-bound kingdoms, was for much of its history off limits. In fact, international tourism only began in the 1970s and there are still limits on the number of visitors allowed per year to manage this.

Even now, open yet careful, Bhutan feels somehow out of reach — yet it’s not. It’s accessible. But it is one-of-a-kind with all the cultural facets one might expect from a place flush with a complicated royal family history, monasteries stitched into Himalayan hillsides, and a pervasive mysticism which does not find distinction from the state.  

That’s the allure of visiting, especially as the country and its people define their place in the world and teach others through its example as the first carbon-negative country in the world and its focus on prioritizing community.

This is what we encountered in Bhutan. And why you may want to consider adding Bhutan to your travel wish list when it is safe to travel again.

The following experiences are highlights from our Bhutan Tour with G Adventures and are presented in chronological order as we experienced them. If you are considering a similar tour to Bhutan and want to know what to expect, here’s a taste of the itinerary, activities and destinations you'll experience. Our tour included the Druk Path Trek, but this trek has been replaced by an exciting new hiking option – the Trans Bhutan Trail – that is the same path used by royals, monks, and traders for thousands of years that has been revived for hikers to enjoy. Not all G Adventures tours to Bhutan include hiking so if you are a big hiker you might want to choose either the Camp the Trans Bhutan Trail (11 days) or Highlights of the Trans Bhutan Trail (12 days) that include some hiking as well as many of the experiences highlighted below. Disclosure: This tour was sponsored and provided to us in conjunction with our partnership with G Adventures as Wanderers

Bhutan Travel: 20 Things to Do, Places to Visit and Experience

1) Hike up to Bhutan’s oldest nunnery, Kila Goempa

Spend any time in Bhutan and you’ll quickly realize that many of the country’s temples, monasteries and meditation centers are perched on cliff or stuffed into a mountain’s edge. Kila Goempa, located near Paro and believed to be Bhutan’s oldest nunnery, is no exception. But, you have to work a bit —i.e., hike for several hours — in order to see it for yourself.

Our hike began at Chelela Pass at 3,810 meters/13,500 feet, a layer of snow and frozen prayer flags reminding us of the season: winter. The hike follows a relatively easy trail through the forest, though with snow it becomes a little tricky and slippery. After a couple of hours you emerge from the trees below Kila Goempa and its compound of meditation cells and residential halls perched above.

It’s believed that this has been a place for meditation since the 9^th century, but that the temple and monastery was built in the 17^th century. Today, it is home to around 50-70 nuns who live and study there, including a few in the process of doing a 3 year, 3 month, 3 week silent and solitary meditation retreat. Respect.

Bonus: This is good acclimatization hike. It also exercises some of your gear if you plan to do the Druk Path Trek. (link)

2) Immerse yourself in Bhutan’s mountains on the Druk Path Trek

If you know us, you’ll know we take every opportunity we can to go trekking and get into nature. We specifically chose our tour because it included trekking in Bhutan on the Druk Path Trek — four days exploring Bhutan’s mountains, disconnecting and getting away from it all.

Each day of the trek included a diversity of landscapes and trails – through the forest, along mountain ridges, up rocky inclines, over mountain passes. As we chose to do a winter trek we also experienced the thrill of occasional snow, which turned out to be both beautiful and peaceful. Evenings and nights could get quite cold, but a sense of “invigorating” adventure pervaded as we camped in the Himalayas in winter.

3) Celebrate at the highest point of the Druk Path, Labana Pass (4,200 meters/13,800 feet)

One of the highlights of the Druk Path Trek was reaching Labana Pass, with its views of the nearby Himalayan sub-ranges and surrounding valleys. Not only was this a challenge to reach because its elevation at 4,200 meters/13,800 feet, but during our winter trek we also had to make our way through a considerable amount of snow and ice to reach this pass.

All worth it though.

4) Admire the temple cats…and understand their symbolism

Buddhism, the primary religion of Bhutan, asks its devotees to care for all sentient beings, including all animals. This is why you’ll often see food left out for stray dogs and cats near Buddhist temples and monasteries, as well as in chosen spots in towns and cities. It was no different at the Thujidrak Goemba temple on the third day of our Druk Path Trek. Water and food was left out for local cats and dogs. Signs were posted about caring for animals, too.

It’s also worth noting that in Bhutan there are four levels of prayers for devotees entering a temple. The first is for animals since they do not have the ability to pray for themselves. Then comes prayers for society and the nation, followed by prayers for family. And last, are the prayers for oneself. A very fitting – and deliberate — order.

5) Circumambulate around Memorial Chorten in Thimphu

Built in remembrance of Bhutan’s third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, the Memorial Chorten (or National Memorial Stupa) is a popular place for locals to hang out. The tradition now is that family members drop their elderly parents off on the way to work so they can spend the day with their friends, take time to pray, do circumambulations of the Memorial Chorten and nearby prayer wheels, and have some fresh air.

(Note: circumambulations – movements around a sacred object – in Bhutan are always done in a clockwise direction.)

Although the Memorial Chorten is painted white and may appear plain on the outside, the three-story interior is flush with color, imagery and idolatry — paintings, statues, shrines, mandalas and more. Our CEO (tour leader) walked us through each floor, explaining the meaning of and stories behind the different deities, Buddhas, incarnations and shrines.

Note: It is forbidden to take photos inside any Buddhist temple in Bhutan, which is why you see only exterior images here. This restriction is minded out of respect to sacred destinations and to avoid disturbing or distracting praying visitors. We like it.

6) Get your fill of Bhutanese food, especially ema datshi (chili and cheese)

We didn't know what to expect of Bhutanese cuisine before our trip, but were pleasantly surprised. It’s tasty, generally pretty healthy and distinct yet influenced by its neighbors (India, China and Nepal).

Also pictured in the image: mixed veggies, Bhutanese chili sauce “Ezay” (yes, you read that right), pakshaa paa (greens or green beans, chili peppers and hefty strips of pork fat), buckwheat noodles, carrot ginger soup, and Jasha Maru (Bhutanese chicken curry).⁠⠀

A typical Bhutanese meal will consist of several, mainly vegetarian, dishes like you see in the image below. One traditional dish that stands out and is a nearly ubiquitous favorite: Ema Datshi — chili and cheese (pictured top right in the image). In this dish, the chili peppers are the vegetables. Each version we tried featured varying levels of heat, but they all gave a kick and served as a welcome side or condiment.⁠⠀

⁠Our recommendation for eating in Bhutan: focus on the veggies. Almost all vegetables you find in meals in Bhutan are organic and grown locally. All meat is imported from India. This is because killing animals is outlawed in Bhutan for religious purposes.⁠⠀

7) Admire traditional Bhutanese archery at a local competition.

Archery is the national sport of Bhutan. Yes, it’s much more difficult than it looks. (We know as we tried it later in the trip.)

Traditional Bhutanese archery employs a bamboo bow in an effort to strike a tiny 90 cm/3 feet tall and 30 cm/11 inches wide bullseye from 145 meters/475 feet away. Yes, that’s almost 1.5 football or soccer fields away. It’s insanely far.

And yet, when we crashed an archery competition in Thimphu, we saw an occasional arrow strike the target. When it did, the shooting team would do a short dance and sing in celebration. Silence returned soon after as deep concentration was needed to repeat.

8) Try to count the 100,000 statues inside the giant golden Buddha Dordenma 

Overlooking Thimphu sits the massive golden Buddha Dordenma, the second largest seated Buddha statue in the world (the largest is in Hong Kong). Although this Buddha is impressive from the outside, what’s inside is even more remarkable: an estimated 100,000+ small Buddha statues, all of gilded bronze.

In addition to several shrines and a large meditation area, the interior also features several photos of the Bhutanese royal family which tell the succession of kings and queens over the centuries. An in-depth visit here will outline the role of and relationship between the royal family in Bhutan and Buddhism, the country’s primary religion by constitution.

9) Visit the open air market to learn about local spices, chilis and incense

While in Bhutan, take all opportunities to visit local markets and strings of local vendors on the street.  We suggest this not only to learn about the ingredients of and culture around local food, but also to engage with and meet local people in Bhutan. The Centenary Farmer’s Market in Thimphu is definitely worth a visit, with its piles of dried and fresh chili peppers (why Bhutanese food has such a kick to it), Sichuan peppers, chopped bitter gourd and much more. (Note: we picked up some Sichuan peppers and roasted chili flakes and they definitely have a kick!)

We were also impressed also by the endless varieties of incense, of varying colors, textures and blends. Incense is a bit of an art in Bhutan and is used to purify air in temples, homes and markets.

10) Check out some live rock music for a taste of modern Bhutan

You wouldn’t think a visit to a venue featuring rock music cover bands should make a top travel in a destination list. In Bhutan, it’s different.  

While much of what you’ll see and experience in Bhutan is connected to traditional culture, it’s worthwhile to spend a night out at live rock music bar to get a feel for the flip side of modern day Bhutan and its youth culture.

The highlight at Mojo Park in Thimphu isn’t hearing a live band cover songs from Coldplay to David Bowie. Instead, it’s being in a bar — one that could be anywhere in the world — and watching young Bhutanese interact, dress in both traditional and non-traditional Bhutanese clothing, drink, sing along with western rock songs, but sing even louder and more passionately to Bhutanese rock songs.

If you happen to spend a night or two in Thimphu, hop on over to Mojo Park for a craft beer, a fun night, and a little insight into Bhutan’s future.

11) Admire the phalluses (in sculptures and paintings) en route to Chime Lhakhang, The Temple of the Divine Madman

Yes, you are seeing these photos correctly. Phalluses of all sizes, colors and designs are painted on the sides of homes in Bhutan. They symbolize power and are thought to ward away evil spirits and protect against gossip. As a side benefit, they also shock – and sometimes delight – visitors.

The prevalence of painted and sculpted phalluses is especially high around Chime Lhakhang, or Temple of the Divine Madman, dedicated to the lama Drukpa Kunley of the 15^th and 16^th century. He was a rather unconventional lama who preached in an unorthodox way which shocked traditional Buddhist priests and the hierarchy of the day. He is known to have subdued a demon with his “magic thunderbolt of wisdom” and advocated for people to display the phallus symbol on walls and to hang it from the four corners of their homes.

To no surprise, the Chime Lhakhang temple is also known as a fertility temple. Visitors travel there from all over Bhutan and the world to be blessed and to have special prayers said for them in their hopes of having offspring. The temple even maintains a photo album of photos sent by parents who’ve borne children after their visit.

12) Take in the rituals and living history at Bhutan’s Temples

 All of Bhutan’s temples and fortresses are alive, active with monks, nuns, and devotees. None, it seems, are static. Few if any serve only as museum. This means that as a visitor you are a guest, respectful of the local people, and the rituals, blessings and silence happening around you.

For example, it’s common for locals to make offerings — of food, money, incense, etc. — for blessing and to pay respect. For those who have made them, these offerings don’t serve as pretty displays. Instead, offerings like the fruit bowl above are used to feed and support the monks studying at the attached monastery school. Often, these young monks come from poorer families who rely on the monastery to educate and support their children.

13) Admire Punakha Dzong (Fortress) in Bhutan’s old capital

Punakha Dzong is among a series of fortresses built across Bhutan in the 17th century to protect the country from invaders (mainly from Tibet) as it formed a union of the country’s various kingdoms. The fortress is strategically built between the Pho Chhu (Male) and Mo Chhu (Female) river in the Punakha–valley. In lore, it draws on the strengths of both genders. 

Although it has suffered several fires and invasions, Punakha Dzong stands as Bhutan’s second largest and second oldest fortress, and is widely considered the country’s most impressive. It remains home to the same holy Buddhist relic — Ranjung Karsapani, the “self-created” statue — that attracted Tibetan invaders all those centuries ago, and is flush with local mystique and legend.

14) Turn the prayer wheels at Kyichu Lhakhang Temple in Paro

Prayer wheels are ubiquitous in Bhutan. Used to accumulate good karma (which is often equated with wisdom to combat ignorance) and to rid oneself of impurities (bad karma), prayer wheels are always spun clockwise, typically while reciting prayers or mantras.

At Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan's oldest temples located in the town of Paro, an elderly nun spins the prayer wheels during a visit to the temple with her family.

As anywhere, a moment or two of people watching in Bhutan tells a good deal about the importance of belief and the role of devotion in Bhutanese society.

15) Soak your muscles in a traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath

Think of the hot stone bath as the traditional Bhutanese farmhouse spa. River stones, supposedly mineral-laden, are collected and heated on hot coals for several hours until they are glowing red (and around a temperature of 300 Celsius). They are then deposited into a wooden tub filled with water in order to heat it, thereby releasing minerals. This process is what local people historically used for bathing prior to in-house plumbing taking over.

The way it works here is that you are in a hot tub of your own, on the other side of the wooden tub holding the hot stones which heat your water. While you share the water warmed by the hot stones, you are protected from accidentally touching them by a secure divider. The idea: you get to enjoy privacy and the warmth and minerals from the stones, but you don’t risk burning yourself.

Should you require more heat or warmer water, there’s no switch or tap. Instead you call out “more stones” and another glowing hot stone will be deposited on the other side of your tub. You keep doing this until your desired temperature, which we found to be about 3 or 4 stones (in the middle of winter). You can also ask for cold water if you find that you’ve been overly ambitious along the way.

Then, you soak in the mineral-laden hot water. The water is relaxing and therapeutic. Particularly after four days of trekking in the mountains on the Druk Path Trek, this experience is well-timed and just about perfect.

Note: While many hotels and spas offer hot stone baths, we did ours at a family farmhouse outside of Paro. It was a nice family-run operation and we know that the money we paid went directly to the family.

16) Visit a local family farmhouse for a home-cooked Bhutanese meal

As much as we enjoy eating in restaurants, we’ll opt for a home-cooked meal in a family home any day. These opportunities not only often result in delicious meals, but they also provide an opportunity to meet a local family, see how they live and know that your tour money is truly staying local.

This was the experience we had at a local family farmhouse our CEO (tour leader) took us to outside of Paro on one of our last nights in Bhutan. We enjoyed a hearty meal featuring several vegetable dishes, pork, ezay (Bhutanese chili sauce) and homemade rice wine in a pleasant living room adorned with paintings and symbols.

The 5-year old granddaughter played host, making sure we were well fed and that we possessed all the right utensils. Unwittingly funny and entertaining, she also practiced her English with us. Despite only being five years old, she’d already figured out how to manage everyone and had assumed full control of the house. We wouldn’t be surprised if she’s prime minister one day.

17) Join the pilgrims on the hike up to Taktsang Monastery (Tiger's Nest)

Before arriving in Bhutan, we’d come across plenty of Tiger's Nest temple images. It’s the de facto symbol of the country. What those photos often don’t convey is what an enjoyable and challenging experience it is to get up there, including sharing the path with local pilgrims along the way.

Our G Adventures group set out early in the morning. The idea: to capitalize on the crispness of the early morning light and air and to avoid the crowds. If you look closely in the photo above you might be able to spot the tiny Tiger's Nest tucked high (3,120 meters/10,240 ft) into the mountain in front of us as we set off on what would be three miles (or five kilometers) of winding uphill.

On the way up, you’ll encounter prayer wheels and prayer flags at different turns. You’ll find all manner of contemplation, including locals reciting mantras, saying prayers. The arrangement, tone and color of this particular scene really struck us.⁠⠀

While a visit inside the monastery itself is worthwhile, it was the journey up for us that made the Tiger's Nest experience so memorable.⁠

18) Admire Tiger’s Nest from across the canyon

After hiking for several hours up some steep hills you finally reach a turn and a short descent. From there, Tiger’s Nest finally appears in full view across the canyon. It’s a remarkable sight; the 17^th century temple is built right on the mountain’s edge.

Tiger’s Nest is placed at the location where the Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) is believed to have brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century and is said to have meditated in a cave for 3+ months. This direct connection to Guru Rinpoche has made Tiger’s Nest one of the most sacred temple sites in the country. It is not only popular for foreign visitors, but also for Bhutanese visitors who come as part of a pilgrimage to pray and to receive blessings.⁠⠀

After a short descent back into the canyon and a short hike back up again we finally reached the entrance to Tiger’s Nest. Due to the early hour we had much of the temple to ourselves, sharing it only with a few monks providing blessings. By the time we began our descent, most others were just beginning their hike up. Perfect timing for us.

Note: Upon arrival at the monastery at the top, you’ll be required to secure your phone, camera and any other bags or electronics in a locker at the entrance to the temple. This is to prevent any photos from being taken inside the temple, as well as to avoid distraction and bumping into things with bulky items.

19) Get all dressed up, Bhutanese-style

 On our last night we got decked out in the traditional Gho (for men) and Kira (for women). While traditional dress such as this is required for official visits, in official buildings and at festivals, you’ll find men and women throughout Bhutan continuing to wear similar clothing in everyday life.

While the outfits are attractive and surprisingly comfortable, like any traditional outfit of its kind, there’s a sort of magic to cinching and securing it.

We’d like to think we cleaned up pretty well.

20) Take a spin during a Bhutanese mask dance

Bhutan is a country of festivals and dances, each having its own special symbolism and purpose. Many are connected to Buddhist traditions, beliefs and legends, and the planting and harvest cycles of the agricultural calendar. Some are also connected to the universal themes of love, life, and death.

Although our visit didn’t coincide with festival season, we managed to experience some traditional and mask dances on our last night. Some were light and comical (the two guys who dressed as the self-deprecating yak had us howling!), while others more serious and spiritual. Most impressive, however, were the spins and jumps.

In this way, Bhutanese dance reflects the ups and downs, the contours of daily life and the passage of the seasons.

How to Plan Your Bhutan Travels + Common Questions about Visiting Bhutan

During our travels in Bhutan, we fielded a lot of excellent questions about visiting Bhutan, including some of the practical considerations regarding traveling there, organizing a tour, and all you need to know for your trip.

How to get a visa to Bhutan?

Getting a visa to visit Bhutan is not difficult in terms of submitting a lot of documents to an embassy and waiting for a visa to be issued. However, you must book a tour with the required minimum daily spending requirements (see #3 below). Then, the tour operator will coordinate your visa for you based on the dates of your trip. Although we’ve heard the visa costs $40, this was included in the price of our tour so we did not pay for it separately.

We received our Bhutanese visa by email from G Adventures about a week prior to our tour departure. We printed out the PDF document and showed it when we checked in for our flight to Bhutan and at immigration upon arrival. More information on visas to Bhutan here.

Note: This visa information applies to all nationalities except Indian, Bangladeshi and Maldivian. Citizens from these countries do not require a special tourist visa dependent upon a tour.

Must I take a tour to visit Bhutan?

Starting from June 2022 an authorized tour is not a requirement of obtaining a tourist visa to Bhutan and it is possible to book your trip independently and pay the required SDF ($200/day) to the Bhutanese government.

However, if you choose to take a tour you have the choice whether you want to book a small group tour (e.g., similar to our tour with G Adventures) or an individual or private tour. You have full flexibility to decide your Bhutan travel itinerary, length of your tour, and your activities.

How much is the minimum daily package for a tour in Bhutan? Why is Bhutan so expensive?

The Bhutanese government tourism policy for over 40 years has been that of “High Value, Low Impact.” The goal: to minimize the potential negative impacts of high-volume tourism while maximizing the potential positive impacts and focusing on sustainability from high value or “high quality” tourism.

In June 2022, the Bhutanese government its increased the Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) — the amount that goes to the government from tourists for development project — from $65 USD per traveler per day to $200 USD per traveler per day. All other travel costs are on top of that SDF amount (e.g., accommodation, food, transport, guiding services, etc.). The SDF fee is included in the price of all Bhutan tours.

The idea: a high daily SDF will automatically filter out the large number of budget travelers who do not want to spend that much, yet it will not deter those who really want to visit Bhutan and have no issue spending the required amounts. Note: This fee does not apply to citizens of India, Bangladesh and the Maldives.

If you are price sensitive then the least expensive option for Bhutan is to travel in a small group in the low season. This is what we did by taking a G Adventures small group tour (we had 7 people in our group) during the low season (late January to early February).

Bhutan also limits the number of tourists who can visit Bhutan each year (currently at around 100,000 people/year) so as to avoid overcrowding. Even if you travel in the high season you shouldn’t face loads of tour groups and travelers, which could negatively impact your travel experience.

What is included in a Bhutan tour? How is the money used? 

Essentially, a tour to Bhutan is pretty much all-inclusive. This means that the price and tour includes accommodation, local guide, transport, entrance fees, activities, support services for trekking, and all meals. What’s not included are things like additional drinks (alcohol, sodas, etc.), souvenirs/shopping, personal activities (e.g., spa treatments) and tips.

In addition, $65/day goes to the government as a Sustainable Development Fee. We were told that this money is allocated towards providing free healthcare and education to Bhutanese people. This is an example of how tourism money is invested directly back into the country and its development. 

How do I travel to Bhutan? What airlines fly to Bhutan?

We won’t lie, Bhutan is not the easiest or cheapest destination to reach. There is only one international airport, Paro (PBH). Only two airlines, Druk Air and Bhutan Airlines, are authorized to fly there, and only a limited number of airports links are available in Asia for inbound and outbound flights.

Since neither Druk Air or Bhutan Airways is connected with other international airlines or systems, you often need to overnight in the departure destination (and possibly sort out a visa there) to be sure you don’t miss your fight into Bhutan. In addition, the price of the flights to Bhutan are exceptionally high considering the distance and the general price of flights across the rest of Asia.

However, since don’t have much of a choice flying to Bhutan, you make the best of the situation and try to find the most convenient flights and connections. For us, that meant flying into Delhi, India and overnighting there before getting a flight to Paro on Druk Air. On the return we flew directly from Paro to Bangkok, Thailand on Bhutan Airways. Most of our group flew in from Kathmandu, Nepal.

The price of flights is pretty much the same between Druk Air and Bhutan Airways. We tried both airlines just to see if there was a difference. Although they are pretty similar we’d suggest Druk Air as being a bit more organized and put together. You can book your tickets and pay online with both Druk Air and Bhutan Airways.

Note: The price of flights to and from Bhutan depends on whether you are a Bhutanese citizen, a citizen from a SAARC country (e.g., India, Bangladesh, Nepal, etc.) or a non-SAARC foreigner (i.e., rest of the world). The latter group has the most expensive tickets. If  you think you can trick the system regarding your country of origin, note that Bhutan airline websites will ask for your visa type in advance and warn that they can cancel your ticket if you provide incorrect information.

Which is the best side of the plane to sit on when flying into Paro, Bhutan?

When flying from Kathmandu to Paro, the left side of the aircraft offers the best views. A window seat on the left side (try to get one that’s not directly over the wing, of course) will provide the best views of the high Himalayan mountains, including Mount Everest.

When is the best time to travel to Bhutan?

Many people say that the best time to visit is in the spring months of mid-March to early May when the rhododendrons and other flowers are in bloom and the weather has begun to turn warm. Another good time from September to November, in autumn when skies are supposed to be clear so you should have good views of the mountains. Festival season seems to be mostly in March/April and September/October (you can see a list of all 2022 festivals in Bhutan here).

The monsoon rains usually arrive late May and last through the summer until late August. Although the fields and hills would be super green during this time, I don’t think I’d recommend doing a trek then because of the rain, mud and clouds (no views).

We visited Bhutan in late January/early February, meaning the heart of winter. We chose this time as we usually enjoy visiting places in the shoulder or off season. Although we had to be prepared for some cold weather, especially during the Druk Path Trek with camping in snow, we found winter a good time to visit Bhutan. It was usually sunny and relatively warm during the day, which was quite pleasant. 

In addition, we encountered almost no other tourists the whole time we were in Bhutan, and that also included having the Druk Path Trek trails and campsites to ourselves. Almost all the temples, fortresses and other sites were also quite empty, save an Indian tour group from time to time. This also meant that our walk up and visit to Tiger’s Nest Temple was pleasantly empty.

Are there ATMs in Bhutan?

Before we proceed to the long and somewhat complicated story of using ATMs in Bhutan, we note that carrying U.S. dollars($) or Euros(€) cash is wise. You’ll find this money useful in making exchanges in a pinch and also using in many shops. Exchange rates vary widely between currencies, as well as the denomination of bill (i.e., higher denomination = better rate), and from hotel to hotel and shop to shop, but they are usually based on the Bank of Bhutan rates.

Although there are ATMs in Bhutan (in major cities like Paro and Thimphu), the machines are fickle. We and others in our group made several failed ATM withdrawal attempts before figuring out what steps to take and which types of available ATM withdrawal requests to make in order to see money emerge from the machine.

If you wish to use an ATM card to make withdrawals of local Bhutanese currency (the Ngultrum), you should notify the bank associated with your ATM or debit card that you will be traveling in Bhutan. When withdrawing money from major banks (e.g., Bank of Bhutan, a.k.a. BOB), the “fast cash” withdrawal options (e.g., 5000, 3000 or 1000) were the only ones that seemed to work for us. Selecting the regular withdrawal from a current or savings account did not work. When we needed more money than those options offered, we simply made multiple withdrawals.  (Note: ATM fees are less a concern for us because we bank with Charles Schwab Bank, which refunds to us any ATM fees at the end of each month.)

Even if you notified your bank in advance of your trip to Bhutan, might still fail in getting money out at the Bhutanese ATM and then need to call your bank again…as we did. When inquiring as to why we were experiencing difficulty, we discovered that while there was no issue or block with our bank, there was an issue with the interbank network (Visa, Maestro, Cirrus, etc.). In our case, our bank had to have a conversation with Visa to request that they allow withdrawal transactions from Bhutan to proceed.  Again, try your ATM card first and the fast-cash option might work. If it doesn’t, call the bank and make sure that neither they nor the intrabank network are in the way.

Finally, although you should officially be able to exchange any leftover Bhutanese currency back into a major currency, we would not recommend piling up cash and expecting the exchange to be easy at Paro airport.  Perhaps because it was low season (or the coronavirus pandemic was just underway), money exchanges were empty. Even they were open, I would not be particularly confident that they would be adequately supplied with the proper denominations of currency you prefer or require on your way out of Bhutan.

What is Gross National Happiness in Bhutan?

While most countries in the world gauge their progress using a measure known as Gross Domestic Product (GDP), one based ostensibly on output as a measure of collective wealth, Bhutan uses something different called Gross National Happiness (GNH). The idea: that there is a more holistic or multi-dimensional approach to development and measuring “success” than just GDP and financial yardsticks.

The idea of GNH originally came from Bhutan’s fourth king, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, in the 1970s. Since then it has evolved into measurement device which attempts to quantify whether or not the country is meeting its happiness development goals. The four pillars of GNH include:

• Sustainable Socioeconomic Development
• Environmental Conservation
• Preservation and Promotion of Culture
• Good Governance

While we are not particularly big fans of the “Gross National Happiness” title (it’s a bit gimmicky and reductive) we do respect and appreciate making a more holistic attempt to understand and measure progress and development. It’s admirable that any government, national or otherwise, might attempt to elevate and somehow quantify social, environment, cultural and governance factors – in pursuit of a more sustainable development model. More on GNH here.

As for Bhutan being the “happiest country” and its people being “the happiest in the world” that also strikes us as a gimmick and art of marketing. It’s interesting to note that many of the articles I read authored by Bhutanese people highlighted that “happiness” is personal and what makes one “happy” is often based on a variety of subjective factors.

Bhutan struggles with development and the rush of modernity as many societies do and have. That will likely be apparent to any visitor to the country. And while there’s no one way to make anyone “happy”, there’s arguably some benefit to a people when its government makes an effort to elevate the importance of the environment, culture, social issues and transparency.

Disclosure: Our tour to Bhutan was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. This article includes affiliate links — that is, if you book a G Adventures tour by clicking on one of the links above the price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission to support this website and stories like this. Check out all the different G Adventures tours we've taken and recommend. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

The post Travel to Bhutan: A Guide to Explore this Remote Kingdom appeared first on Uncornered Market.

From meeting people on trains, sharing sunrise with pilgrims and travelers alike at the top of Adam’s Peak, wandering through the tea gardens, learning to pop spices and cook Sri Lankan food in clay pots, admiring sleeping Buddha sculptures in caves, and much more, here is a taste of the diversity of experiences and destinations you'll find traveling through Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka. Ceylon. The little tear-shaped island just south of India. Our visit there wasn't my first.

I lived there for 18 months when my father worked at the U.S. Embassy. My memories of Sri Lanka from my six to seven year-old self consisted of brightly colored saffron robes worn by Buddhist monks, baby orphan elephants bathing in the river, giant sleeping gilded Buddhas, and a vibrant green as far as I could see across the rolling hills of tea plantations in the north.

Something I appreciate now as an adult, yet didn’t fully understand as a child except to note differences in people’s clothing, was the diversity of ethnicities, cultures and religions in Sri Lanka. This includes a majority Sinhalese population who are predominately Buddhist, a Tamil community composed of both Sri Lankan and Indian Tamils who are mostly Hindu, and also Christians and Muslims.

Add to this a long and complicated history dating back 8,000+ years — including power struggles between kingdoms, colonialism, and forced migration — and you have the blend that makes Sri Lanka the fascinating and complex place that it is, the same blend which helped divide it and drive it into a devastating 26-year civil war (1983-2009).

My family left before the civil war began. As the war unfolded, we watched as Sri Lankan friends emigrated to avoid the conflict. And just as peace and stability returned over the last decade, we watched as many of them returned home. Dan and I came close to visiting Sri Lanka in 2008 when we were in southern India. It was a time just before the end of the civil war. At the counsel of Sri Lankan friends, we decided to wait. When the war finally ended in May 2009, we looked for an opportunity to visit.

One finally presented itself years later. Spurred by an opening in a Vipassana meditation course at a center in Sri Lanka, we booked a last-minute flight to Colombo. As I sat my meditation course, Dan made his way south to a beach for his own self-made retreat. After the meditation course finished, we embarked on a two week journey around the island together.

To assemble an itinerary we collected recommendations from friends who had lived or visited there recently, piecing together a rough route focused on train journeys, tea gardens and treks. We left things flexible, often booking accommodation the day before or the day of, to allow shifts and adjustments as we wished.

In the end, it turned out to be an even better two-week trip than we'd imagined, flush with a diversity of experiences and destinations which belied the relatively short amount of time we had. Despite the ground we'd covered and all that we'd experienced, we never felt rushed.

Trains, tea gardens and treks. Here are the best experiences from our Sri Lanka travels and two-week itinerary.

Update: This post was first published in April 2019 and was updated and republished with more details and options for day trips on 28 December, 2019.

Our Sri Lanka 2-Week Itinerary: A Map

Our two week journey together through Sri Lanka included:

• Colombo – Kandy (train): 2 days
• Kandy – Dambulla Caves – Sigiriya – Kandy (bus): 2 days
• Kandy – Hatton (train) + rickshaw to Delhousie – Adam's Peak – Hatton: 2 days
• Hatton – Haputale (train) + rickshaw to Lipton's Seat: 3 days
• Haputale – Ella (train): 3 days
• Ella – Colombo (train): 2 days
• Note: Dan's beach segment took him from Colombo by train to Galle and then a bus onto the southern beaches between Godellawela and Goyambokka.

The days for each itinerary segment listed above and below include travel times between destinations. Moving between destinations can often take most to all of a day when you take into consideration time on the train (or bus) and rickshaw transfers needed. However, these journeys are also experiences in and of themselves to meet locals and enjoy the changing landscapes and lush tea plantations.

Sri Lanka Travel Guide: 19 Things to Do and Places to Visit

1. Take the train in Sri Lanka – again and again and again

Traveling by train in Sri Lanka, no matter which class carriage, is the best way to get around the country for views, hanging with locals, and budget minding. It’s more than just a transportation option to get you from point A to B; it's an experience. We traveled in every class, from third class to 1st class A/C (air-conditioned), and highly recommend trying it all if you can.

Sri Lankan trains don’t go everywhere, but they reach close to most places in Sri Lanka that you’d want to visit. Additionally, many train routes take you through gorgeous scenery and landscapes — tea gardens, forests, villages, coasts — often where there are no roads.

The fresh air and meditative slow movement and sound of the train is so much more enjoyable than diesel-filled roads and the jerky movements of bus transport. We traveled by train from: Colombo – Kandy – Hatton – Haputale – Ella – Colombo.

No matter which train journey you choose, you won’t be disappointed. Although the train route to Ella gets most of the press and hype, we actually felt that the segment from Hatton to Haputale was the most spectacular.

Given the popularity of train travel with locals and travelers it can be challenging to secure tickets for reserved seats. Read below for advice on buying tickets and traveling by train in Sri Lanka without a reservation.

What to do in and near Kandy: 3 days

2. Admire the murals and gilded Buddha statues at Dambulla Cave Temple

We can develop “temple fatigue” quickly. As such, and based on our research, we arrived at Dambulla Cave Temple with managed expectations. But as it was only a couple hours north (72km) of Kandy and en route to Sigiriya Rock Fortress, we opted to stop off and check it out.

We’re so glad we did.

These Buddhist cave temples, also a UNESCO site, date back to around 1st century BC. The complex includes five caves open to the public, each a bit different from the next in terms of its size, and its style and range of paintings and Buddha statues. Of course, the paintings and statues have been renovated and brushed up over time. However, it’s still impressive to take in Buddhist religious art spanning 22 centuries and to witness the living history of how local people still use these caves today for religious purposes.

This is a popular site for both Sri Lankans and travelers, so if you find that one cave is crowded, just move to the next one until the crowds dissipate and move on. It’s worth the additional effort to be able to enjoy each of the caves with some quiet and stillness.

3. Climb to the top of Sigiriya (Lion Rock) Citadel before the crowds arrive

The story goes that in the 5th century King Kasyapa needed to build a new, secure capital after usurping the throne. He brutally murdered his father and scared off his brother, the rightful heir to the throne.

After this Game of Thrones-style move, he headed just north of Dambulla and built his palace atop a massive 180-meter high rock – Sigiriya, or Lion Rock – giving him a vantage point from which to see any armies coming from miles away. His palace served him well and protected him during his reign. After he died, it was used as a Buddhist monastery until the 14th century.

Most travelers visit Sigiriya, another UNESCO site and one of the most visited places in Sri Lanka, as a day trip from Kandy. Our advice is to spend the night in one of the family-run guest houses close to the site and take a tuk-tuk early in the morning so you arrive at 7AM when the ticket office and gates open.

This will allow you to walk through the gardens, enjoy the frescoes — including the famous Sigiriya Maidens — in the caves along the rock face (cool, but you can’t touch!), climb to the top of the rock, walk around the palace ruins, enjoy the views from up high, and head back down. And to do all this before the hordes of tourists on bus tours from Kandy arrive. On our way down from the top of the rock, we saw hundreds of visitors lining up.

Another benefit to this approach is that you’ll be able to explore Sigiriya in the early morning coolness before the day warms up and views become hazy.

NOTE: If you are short on time you can also book a day trip to Sigiriya and the Dambulla Caves from Colombo.

4. Eat your weight in Sri Lankan rice and curry.

The basic Sri Lankan meal, whether at a hole-in-the-wall or high-end restaurant, is rice and curry. Often, you’ll get a big plate or bowl of rice and then a selection of several different curries to go with it. In many simple cafeteria-style places the curries will be laid out buffet-style and you’ll point the server to which ones you want. It’s best to eat during local meal hours so that the food is freshly cooked and not sitting out for hours in the heat.

Vegetarians should rejoice at Sri Lankan food. There are usually several types of daal (lentils), sabjis (mixed vegetables), beet root, eggplant and other vegetarian curry options on offer. For meat eaters, you’ll find different types of chicken, meat or fish curry options with various levels of heat and spice. In more formal restaurants you’ll have the option to choose how many curries — and which ones — you want served with your pile of rice.

Don’t forget to seek out or ask for the different types of sambols (salads), chutneys or hot sauces available. Some of our favorites included pennywort salad (gotukola sambol), spicy coconut chutney (pol sambola), and spicy onion sambol (lunu miris). When you do, you’ll often get a nod of approval and smile from your waiter as well. For more information on Sri Lankan food, check out this article from our friend Mark.

5. Pay a visit to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy.

Inside the former royal palace complex in Kandy, Sri Dalada Maligawa (aka, Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic) is what is believed to be the relic of the tooth of Gautama Buddha, rescued from his funeral pyre in 543 BC. Almost 800 years later, the story continues with the tooth having been smuggled to Sri Lanka from India in the early 4th century.

In addition to its religious value, the relic of the tooth introduces another Game of Thrones-like twist: it is believed that whoever holds the relic also rules the country. So it became a prized possession and political tool of monarchs over the centuries. Its final resting place is now in Kandy where it is said to be secure inside the palace's main shrine.

Although it's not possible for visitors today to see the actual tooth relic, it is still worth visiting the palace and temple if you are in Kandy. The procession of pilgrims, devotees and rituals surrounding this sacred relic offer a bit of active devotion, of living history. You'll notice lotus blossoms and frangipani offerings heaped throughout the different temples, tucked into sacred nooks. The palace and temples grounds — with their elaborate wood carvings, gilded statues and paintings, and manicured gardens — serve up a bit of visual overload.

Note: If you happen to visit Kandy during July or August ask about the dates for that year's Esala Perahera (Festival of the Tooth), a two week interlude when the town fills with decorated elephants, dancers, ceremonies, and more.

6. Buy some creative, colorful and eco-friendly souvenirs in Kandy.

We weren’t looking for souvenirs or to buy anything when we stumbled upon EarthBound Creations (28 Yatinuwara Veediya, Kandy) as we wandered the streets of Kandy. However, the colorfully creative use of recycled materials (recycled newsprint, plastics, etc.) changed that. In addition to the environmentally sensitive use of recycled materials, this social enterprise also works with women who were affected by or displaced by the tsunami in 2004.

This means when you buy cool souvenirs and gifts here — we bought a basket and an old bi-plane made, both made of recycled cardboard and newsprint — it helps provide income and training to this disadvantaged group of women. Inventory there is cool, visually appealing, reasonably priced and feel-good.

What to do in Hatton and Adam's Peak: 2 days

7. Wake up at 2AM to climb Adam’s Peak (Sri Padaya) and enjoy sunrise at the top

This mountain is considered sacred by several religions, including all the prominent ones practiced in Sri Lanka. Sri Pada (“Sacred Footprint”), a rock formation near the peak, is considered to be the footprint of Buddha for Buddhists, of Adam for Christians and Muslims, and of Shiva for Hindus.

During your walk up, you’ll find plenty of local pilgrims of different religions and travelers along the way. You'll find even more gathered in large numbers at the top near the temples waiting for the sun to rise.

The idea is to hike up Adam's Peak in the dark so you can enjoy sunrise at the top, followed by views from the mountain in the early morning light on the way down. We set our alarms for the ungodly hour of 2AM, bundled up in multiple layers of clothing against the morning chill, got a tuk-tuk ride to the base of the mountain, and set off for the peak (2,243 m / 7,359 ft).

Although we enjoyed the anticipation of sunrise next to the Hindu and Buddhist temples at the peak while we watched them perform different ceremonies and prayers, we found the crowds and all of the cameras and selfie-sticks a bit much after a while. We headed down before the sun was fully up and left the crowds behind us.

This was such a good decision.

We had views of the nearby mountains and hills almost all to ourselves in a perfect early-morning light which lasts only a few minutes at best. It’s magical.

8. Rickshaw ride the hill country and tea plantations

Sometimes it’s worth the splurge of a few dollars to take your own rickshaw rather than the public bus. It's definitely a wise idea when you’re in the middle of hill country surrounded by tea plantations and you wish to take it all in a bit more slowly and to take photos along the way.

The two routes we recommend for taking your own rickshaw: from Delhousie to Hatton (or the opposite direction) and from Haputale to Dambethenna Tea Estate (also the starting point for the hike to Lipton’s Seat). Don’t be afraid to ask your driver to stop for photo opportunities and just to enjoy the views. We found that our drivers snapped photos of the tea plantations and views with their mobile phones, just like us.

9. Take a break from Sri Lankan rice with some roti (flat bread)

Although the standard Sri Lankan fare of rice and curry is tasty, you may find yourself reaching a point of rice fatigue. That’s where roti (fried flat bread) or kottu roti (diced roti which is mixed with vegetables like a fried rice) come to the rescue.

If you still have a hankering for curries, consider switching out the rice for a stack of freshly made roti to go with your daal (lentils) and other curries. One of our favorite places for this was Malabar Restaurant and Bakers in Hatton. It was so good we ate here two days in a row as we transited through town on the way to and from Adam’s Peak.

Another alternative to rice and curry is kotti roti, which essentially looks like fried rice made with vegetables and different meats, but where diced roti replaces the rice. You always know when this is being made as you can hear the kottu roti master clanging away with his knives to cut the roti super fine. The flavor is hearty and the sound satisfying. And the whole experience offers a welcome break from the rice and curry routine.

What to do near Haputale + Tea Plantations: 3 days

10. Find a room with a view in a hill station

Although Nuwara Eliya and Ella might be the more popular and sophisticated hill stations in Sri Lanka’s tea country, we decided to try less-visited Haputale for a couple of days based on the recommendation of friends who lived in Sri Lanka for several years. Most of the guest houses and inns in this area are in the countryside outside of town, but we got lucky with this room and view in town.

To be honest, there’s not a lot going on in the town of Haputale and not many tourist services. But, it’s a good base if you want to visit nearby tea plantations, go on some hikes in the area (e.g., Lipton’s Seat), witness local life, and just chill with a nice view for a few days.

11. Hike up to Lipton’s Seat and have a cup of tea

Mr. Lipton of Lipton Tea really did exist. He’s not just a marketing persona. He is credited with transforming Sri Lanka into a one of the world’s biggest tea producers after a disease wiped out much of the country's coffee bushes in the late 19th century.

Today, you can hike up through the tea plantations to the place on a hill where he used to supposedly look out over his various tea plantations to take stock and ensure everything was in order. A little make-shift hut has been set up there so you can have a cup of tea as you enjoy the views of the tea gardens below. How appropriate.

The walk takes a couple of hours along winding plantation roads and through the different segments of Dambethenna Tea Estate tea gardens to arrive at Lipton’s Seat. Depending upon the time of day and season you might also catch the tea pickers at work at they methodically make their way through the narrow rows of tea bushes and pick only their top, green leaves.

What to do in Ella and Nearby: 3 days

12. Enjoy sunset atop Little Adam’s Peak near Ella

In full disclosure, we hadn’t actually planned to be on the top of Little Adam’s Peak at sunset. We decided to take the “scenic route” suggested by our guesthouse owner in Ella and as is typical for us, we got a little turned around along the way. So there we were at the golden hour hiking the last leg of what is affectionately known as Little Adam’s Peak. Turns out, in the end, that our timing was just about perfect.

13. Take a cooking course in Ella and learn the secrets of Sri Lankan food

Because Sri Lanka is so close to India one might assume that the cuisines are the same. While there are some surface similarities between the two countries' collection of cuisines, Sri Lankan food is unique and employs different spice combinations in its masalas, lots of coconut milk, ample amounts of fresh curry and pandan leaves, spicy sides called sambols, and cinnamon.

To understand the basics of Sri Lankan food and how we could replicate some dishes at home, we took a cooking class with Lanka in Ella. Over the course of several hours we learned how to cook five different curries (carrot, beet, green bean, eggplant, and chicken), plus a sambol and salad. It was excellent.

Not only did we learn the fundamentals, but Lanka was open to answering the slew of questions we had, including those related to Sri Lankan food, what life was like during the civil war, the tourism growth spurt (or overtourism) in Ella, and just about anything else.

We highly recommended this experience. It's also a great value at around 2000 rupees ($12). There are other cooking courses in town, but be sure to ask how many dishes you’ll actually make since some of the other options only offer 2-3 curries for a similar price.

14. Hike Ella Rock in the morning sunshine

Although we didn’t get up before dawn to climb up to Ella Rock for sunrise as many advised (yes, we do enjoy our sleep), we made it up there for mid-morning. This still allowed us to enjoy some of the morning light, coolish weather, views of Little Adam’s Peak and the hill country, before the haze settled in with the afternoon heat.

Although Ella Rock proper gets all the limelight, we enjoyed the other overlook, one about five minutes away featuring a small Buddhist temple in a cave. There are almost no people there and it’s a good place to breathe deeply and take in the beauty around you.

NOTE: If you are short on time, consider taking this day trip around Ella that includes a hike up to Ella Peak in the morning, visit to Nine Arches Bridge and a hike up to Little Adam's Peak.

What to do and eat in Colombo: 1-2 Days

15. Get your Sri Lankan street food fix at Galle Face Green in Colombo

For the combination of street food, ocean views, and a great place to watch the sunset, head to Galle Face Green in late afternoon. Although much of the street food here can be a bit on the fried side, there are some tasty crab and shrimp bites that you can find at select food stalls along the walkway.

For a meal with an actual seat, take your pick of one of the restaurant stalls whose menus are full of deviled and grilled seafood or chicken. It you order a beer, it's likely they'll serve the can in a bag so as to avoid their running afoul of liquor license authorities.

To see more of Colombo and learn about its history, consider taking a half-day city tour to see the main sights of the city.

16. Find the Hopper master in the Colombo Old Fort area

Hoppers is a typical Sri Lankan dish featuring a bowl-shaped pancake made from rice flour and coconut milk, often with the option of a fried egg inside, which is served with a simple curry. Almost as fun as eating hoppers is watching the masters at work on the street with their hopper pans churning out perfectly formed hoppers by the hundreds.

If you’re in Colombo look for this guy on York street in the Old Fort area. Hoppers with a smile!

If you really want to go deep into Sri Lankan street food in Colombo, consider taking this Colombo street food tour.

17. Stock up on spices at the market to take home

After our Sri Lankan cooking class in Ella we were armed with a list of Sri Lankan spices, sauces and other foodstuffs we wanted to bring back home. If you are similar to us and opt for food souvenirs rather than typical souvenir tchotchkes, make a stop at the fresh market behind the Colombo bus station to stock up on all your Sri Lankan spice needs.

Not only is it fun to enter a market with a shopping list (of course, we bought more than we expected), but the quality and price of spices in Sri Lanka is hard to beat. The fragrance from the cinnamon sticks and cinnamon bark is something magical. Interaction with local vendors and asking questions about different spice qualities and options is fun, too.

Recommendations for a 3rd Week in Sri Lanka

18. Disconnect and decompress in a small Sri Lankan beach village

We didn’t do a lot of beach hopping to be able to give you a definitive “best beaches in Sri Lanka” list. The reason? Once Dan found this beach and family-run guesthouse near Tangalle in the south, he decided not to leave for ten days.

So while I was at my Vipassana meditation course, Dan created his own retreat on the beach. For him, mornings were about meditation, reading and a leisurely breakfast with the guest house family.

Days were about more reading on the beach, exploration of nearby towns and villages, and impromptu Sri Lankan cuisine lessons at local restaurants. And late afternoons featured more beach time and sunset with a beer under a palm swooping into a strip of sand carved by the day's waves. Sunsets, like snowflakes, no two were the same.

The long, empty beach and wide horizons combined with being disconnected and the laid back pace and limited movement were exactly what he needed to relax, read, and recharge.

19. Take a Vipassana 10-day silent meditation course

If you really want to disconnect from the world to reconnect with and dig deep within yourself, there’s no better way to accomplish that than by taking a Vipassana silent meditation course for ten days. Now, this is not a luxury, laid-back meditation retreat with optional massages on the side. Instead, it’s more like meditation boot camp with the morning bell at 4AM, around 10 hours of meditation each day and almost nothing for dinner.

But doing a Vipassana course is SO worth any temporary feeling of discomfort or lack of luxury, and will likely be one of the most rewarding and memorable experiences of your life. I won’t go into all the details as to why, and the mental and physical benefits. Dan already did an incredible job doing that in his Vipassana course article. I should note, however, that each Vipassana experience is different and unique.

Essential Sri Lanka Travel Information

The following practical travel information is aimed to help you plan your trip to Sri Lanka, from visas to flights to train tickets, so that it all goes smoothly without any unpleasant surprises.

Day Trips and Other Tours in Sri Lanka

Although two weeks in Sri Lanka isn't a ton of time, we did have enough flexibility in our schedule to organize things last minute and piece things together on the spot. However, if you have a tighter schedule or want to book day trips, transfers and other activities in advance (recommended for high season) we can suggest using our partner, Get Your Guide. It offers many different day trips and other tours in Sri Lanka with no booking fees and free cancellation up to 24 hours before.

In addition to the recommendations above, here are a few other day trips and tours that you might consider doing in Sri Lanka.

• Day Trip to the UNESCO City of Anuradhapura: Unfortunately, we did not have time to visit Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka's first capital and an important Buddhist religious site. However, it's on our list for our next visit as friends of ours who used to live in Sri Lanka recommended it.
• Minneriya National Park Day Trip:  Seeing elephants in the wild is pretty remarkable, and Sri Lanka has one of the highest populations of wild Asian elephants. On this day trip to Minneriya National Park from Colombo you'll have a chance to see elephants in the wild (MUCH better than seeing them at a center). This is a long day, but all the transport is taken care of for you so you can relax and enjoy.
• Colombo City Tour by Tuk Tuk: We went through Colombo very quickly on our way in and out of the country and wish we had spent more time there. Given the size of the city, a tuk tuk city tour like this would allow you to see the main highlights of the city within a short period of time with all the history, stories and context that only a local guide can bring.

Best time to visit Sri Lanka

The country has multiple monsoon seasons so “best time to visit Sri Lanka” depends much on where you want to go. For the southern, central and western parts of the country (i.e., where we were) December – May is considered the best time. In the eastern part of the country, April or May to September is considered best. Weather is changing everywhere and monsoons seem to come and go at different times each year.

How to Get a Sri Lanka Visa

Most nationalities need a visa to Sri Lanka. One can be obtained online easily and quickly. Just fill out the e-visa to Sri Lanka application and pay $30 needed for a 30-day visa. Our applications were approved within 24-hours. Although we carried a copy of our visa approval, the immigration officer did not ask for it.

Flights to Sri Lanka

Flying from Europe we had quite a few connection options to Colombo, Sri Lanka (CMB). Many of the European flights do land very late at night or early morning so we booked a hotel near the airport for that first night. You can also pre-book your airport transfer to make it less stressful when you arrive.

We often use Skyscanner to check availability and price of flights as its database includes all low-cost airlines. Once you find your best route or price then you can book directly through the airline with no extra fees.

How to Book Train Tickets in Sri Lanka

Many reserved seats on popular train routes sell out early. Don’t be deterred, though. You can always get on the train you want with a 2nd or 3rd class ticket purchased the same day, without a seat assignment.

To get a feel for the train routes and how you might want to plan your own train journey through the country check out this train route map on the official Sri Lanka Railways website. You can also find schedules and prices for trains there as well.

Traveling by train without a reservation: Many of the local trains don’t have reserved seating so you just need to show up 30-60 minutes before the train to buy a 2nd or 3rd-class ticket (usually very cheap). Then, it’s a matter of waiting on the platform for the train to arrive, and positioning yourself close to the doors so you can be one of the first to enter and snag a seat. Even if you don’t end up with a seat, don’t worry. One is likely to come available at another station.

Buying train reservations: If you want a bit of comfort on the train with an actual assigned seat then you’ll need to do a bit of advance planning to figure out your route and dates of travel. We went straight to the main train station (Colombo Fort Railway Station) when we arrived in Colombo and bought as many reserved seats as we could for the train routes we knew we wanted to take. Despite this being 10 to 14 days in advance of the actual travel dates, some routes were already booked full.

We have heard, but have not tried ourselves, that it's possible to work with local travel agents to buy reserved train tickets in advance. Seat 61, the website of all things train travel, has advice on how to do that here.

Finding and Booking Hotels in Sri Lanka

Although we traveled during the high season we were able to make most of our hotel bookings in Sri Lanka just a couple of days before — or even the day of — our arrival without any problem. We mostly stayed at small, family-run guesthouses and used Booking.com to find and book accommodation.

English is spoken at varying levels in smaller guesthouses so we found booking accommodation through Booking.com was easier, immediate and more secure than trying to call and make a reservation over the phone or by email.

Buying a SIM card in Sri Lanka

When you arrive at Bandaranaike International Airport airport in Sri Lanka you’ll find several mobile phone operators offering different “tourist plans” SIM card for mobile calling and internet. We ended up choosing Mobitel SIM cards with several gigabytes of mobile data and a chunk of SMS and calling minutes for around $10. It was easy to set up and we had pretty good coverage throughout Sri Lanka during our trip.

The post An Experiential Travel Guide to Sri Lanka: 19 Ideas to Get You Started appeared first on Uncornered Market.

This article explains how to plan and organize a trip to the Alay Region, including what to do and see in the Alay Mountains and Pamir Mountains.

As our jeep gripped the road and moved us closer to the sky, I began to understand the words of the friend who urged us on our first visit 12 years ago.

“So, there's this part of Kyrgyzstan most travelers don't really know about.”

Horses gathered in their own orchestrated processions, layers of freshly snow-draped mountains as their backdrop. The light bent as it tends to do in this part of the world, arcing into the otherworldly. The wind kicked up, delivering a floating, faraway sensation. Villages and lives and culture had stitched themselves into tiny pockets, scattered within stacks of mega-mountains as far as the eye could see.

Before I even knew I wanted to travel, it was places like this that called me.

That feeling of alpine lift, of high desert mystery along the Pamir Highway was only a taste. Since then, we've visited the region twice more, widening our view — immersing ourselves in the Alay Mountains and getting up close to the Pamir peaks we'd seen only from a distance those years ago.

Dramatic mountains and yurts cut the sky, as local families and roving shepherds offer a sense of what it means to be human here. For visitors, peak experience with a touch of nomadic grounding.

The Alay Region — a remote trading and transport crossroads between cultures and neighboring countries like Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and China — is easier to get to than it first appears. Despite this, Alay has a distinctly Kyrgyz feel, as exhibited by families in yurts tending to animals on the jailoo (high pasture) in the summer.

As such, most tourism in this region is community-driven and family-run, and travelers' money tends to stay local. This article is a resource to access it all.

A note on naming convention to keep things straight: Locally, the Alay Region = Alay District + Chong-Alay District. Relevant for travelers: Alay Region = Alay Mountains + Pamir Mountains.

Alay Region Travel Guide: What to do and See

Trek in the Alay Mountains to Experience Nature and Kyrgyz Culture Together

There’s no shortage of stunning mountains and landscapes in a multi-day Alay Mountain trekking experience. Thanks to a network of family yurt camps across the main Alay Mountain treks and trails, the experiences are set apart by a connection with local people and culture.

After a long day of walking, you are welcomed by a family to their yurt camp. Families not only provide a home-cooked meal and warm place to sleep, but also a glimpse into what their summer life is like on the jailoo (high pasture) as they tend to their animals, make fresh creams and breads, and go about daily life.

In addition, the trails you’ll walk tend to trace traditional local shepherd paths. You’ll encounter curious people along the way who want to know where you’re from and what you think of Kyrgyzstan, its landscape and its nature. In other words, when you trek in the Alay Mountains you’ll never forget that you’re in Kyrgyzstan thanks to the engagement with people and nomadic culture along the way.

Where to trek in the Alay Mountains:

Our Alay Mountains trekking guide provides comprehensive information on all the different treks, how to organize them, how to book a tour or guide, when to go, and everything else you need to know. For simplicity in this article, we’ll divide the Alay Mountains into two areas: low and high, and we'll provide examples of the different types of trekking and cultural experiences you’ll find in each.

Trekking in the Lower Alay Mountains

This section of the Alay Mountains is further north in the region and a bit closer to the city of Osh. The trek trailheads begin near the town of Gulcha. Landscapes tend to be green, textured by layers of valleys and hills, and accented by granite peaks.

Don’t let the “lower” fool you — many of the treks cross Ak-Tor pass (3,500 meters/11,500 feet) and feature sweeping views. If you don’t have experience hiking at altitude, this area offers a nice way to acclimatize on a three to five day trek before tackling a trek in the high Alay Mountains or heading up into the Pamirs on a road trip or trek.

In full disclosure, we set off in this area with relatively low expectations since our time followed time in High Alay Mountains and the Pamirs. Despite that, we found the three-day Ak-Tor Pass trek really enjoyable — landscapes were varied and the layers of granite peaks and valleys all around did not disappoint.

Note: We did a 3-day Ak-Tor Pass trek on foot. Other options include five days on horseback as the Truly Nomadic Lands tour. Although multi-day horseback riding treks are not our preference, we can see how these hills would be enjoyable and also appropriate for a beginner on horseback.

Trekking in the High Alay Mountains

This is the more southern segment of the Alay Mountain range, whose trailheads tend to cluster near Sary Mogul village. Our first trekking experiences in this region were the Koshkol Lakes and Best of Alay Trek (8 days). This area still holds a special place in our hearts – for the combination of otherworldly mountain vistas like Sary Mogul Pass (4,303 meters / 14,100 feet) and the diversity of alpine lakes, green valleys, red rock canyons and views of nearby snowcaps.

Today, all of the main treks in the high Alay Mountains are also connected by yurt camps. Though you can camp if you wish, carrying tents and camping equipment is no longer required. This makes the treks easier and less expensive to organize, and also provides more interaction with locals along the way.

Note: Since treks in this area reach some pretty high altitudes, consider acclimatizing with day treks around Sary Mogul or some short treks in the lower Alay Mountains.

Trek into the Pamir Mountains for High Alpine Extremes

The Pamir Mountains are among some of the world's highest mountains. Located in the southern part of the Alay Region, the Pamirs form a natural mountainous border between southern Kyrgyzstan and northern Tajikistan. The line of high, snow-covered peaks— with Peak Lenin (7,134 meters/23,406 feet) as the highest of the Pamir peaks in Kyrgyzstan — is impressive and seems to float just above the plains below where animals graze.

Peak Lenin attracts alpinists and serious mountain climbers from around the world. However, there are other day trek and multi-day trekking options in the area for non-alpinists hoping to get a close-up taste of the Pamirs, its mountain routes splashed with colorful minerals, alpine lakes and glaciers. And you can access it all without the need for any special gear or training.

As you ascend into the Pamir Mountains, and once you leave the yurts of Tulpar-Kol Lake, the atmosphere becomes less coupled to Kyrgyz culture and more connected to the survival demands of professional alpinism. Particularly at the various Peak Lenin camps, many of the people you’ll encounter aim to summit Peak Lenin, and are spending time at the different base and ascent camps in an effort to acclimatize.

For us, this provided an interesting glimpse into the world of mountaineering and all that it takes to prepare and undertake such a climb. While we weren’t tempted to join them (this time, anyhow), it made us appreciate even more the beauty and stunning landscapes that we were able to experience as ordinary hikers and non-professional mountain climbers.

Where to trek in the Pamir Mountains

The jumping off point for treks in this area of the Pamir Mountains is Tulpar-Kol Lake, located about an hour outside of Sary Mogul village. Several yurt camps are located there and can serve as your base. The treks available are typically only available in July and August since the mountain passes are otherwise snow-covered and impassable.

Day hike to Traveler’s Pass (4,100 meters/13,450 feet)

This is a long day of hiking (19 km/12 miles), with an early start from Tulpar-Kol Lake. You hike your way past Lenin Peak Base Camp and nearby high pastures to the ascent up Traveler’s Pass. Don’t just stop once you get to the sign at the pass, though. Go just down the grassy area below and enjoy the lower panoramic view of the snow and glacier-covered Pamir Mountains.

If you have more time continue down the pass for another couple kilometers until you reach what might be described as “Watercolor” valley. Then, return the same way you came and enjoy a well-earned dinner back at Tulpar-Kol yurt camp.

2-3 Day Trek to Lenin Peak Camp 1 and Yuhina Peak (5,100 meters/16,730 feet)

This trek that is included in this Visit Alay Lenin Peak Base Camp Trek (8 days) is designed for those with a bit more time and experience trekking at high altitudes. It's also for those who want to see more of the Pamir Mountains and its extreme landscapes.

The first day includes hiking from Tulpar-Kol Lake over Traveler’s Pass to Lenin Peak Camp 1 (4,400 meters/13,150 feet). It’s a challenging 15+ km / 9+ mile day that takes you through some surreal high mountain landscapes and colors between Traveler’s Pass and Camp 1. Enjoy a hearty dinner at Camp 1, and drink plenty of water well before bedtime to help with the high altitude.

Wake up early the next day to begin climbing up to Yuhina Peak. (You may need to request an early breakfast box for 7AM, since standard breakfast at Ak-Sai Camp 1 does not seem to begin until 8AM.) It’s a challenging, steep ascent through scree to get to the peak. Be sure to proceed slowly and steadily. Allow your body to adjust to the altitude. At the top you’ll cross a snow field to reach the peak.

Enjoy a well-deserved break at the top. Panoramic views of Lenin Peak and the Pamir Mountain sweep around you in all directions. Return the way you came to Camp 1. Have lunch there before beginning the walk back down.

Note: Several trekking agencies run Lenin Peak Base Camps, as well as camps at higher elevations. Our trek was arranged and all our accommodation was booked by Visit Alay in Osh. We stayed at Ak-Sai Camp 1 and found it well-run, clean and professional. Although the tent and sleeping mat is provided you'll need to bring a very warm sleeping bag comfort rated to -10 C/14 F with you (Visit Alay provided this to us). It’s geared more towards professional climbers than day-trekkers so it has a bit of a hearty mountaineering atmosphere, complete with sun struck alpinists and gruffly-spoken Russian.

Experience the Pamirs on a 2-day horse trek to Tuyuk and Booke yurt camps

If you want to enjoy the backdrop of the dramatic snow-covered Pamir Mountains, but with less extreme climbs and altitudes, consider the two-day trek on horse or foot from Tulpar-Kol Lake to Tuyuk and Booke yurt camps. The route takes you around and through high pastures and rolling hills. This should also be suitable for beginner horse riders.

Both yurt camps are at the base of the Pamir Mountains and also feature beautiful views of the Alay Mountains across the valley.

Note: To avoid back-tracking to Tulpar-Kol Lake you can arrange a pickup through the yurt camp or CBT Sary Mogul to take you from Booke yurt camp to Sary Mogul or Osh.

Learn about Kyrgyz nomadic traditions and life on the jailoo

Not far from the village of Daroot Korgon is a lush valley filled with agricultural fields, high pastures for animals, wildflowers, beehives and yurt camps. It’s a beautiful place to spend some time to learn about traditional Kyrgyz culture and life on the jailoo (high pasture).

Our host for the morning, Yrysbubu, has come up to this area for 54 years – spending each summer living on the jailoo. She takes care of cows, sheep and other animals, lives in the family yurt, and continues the traditions and foods of Kyrgyz nomads of her ancestors. She showed us how to make chavaty, or bread cooked on a kazan (big metal pot) directly on the fire.

Before retreating to the yurt to enjoy a lunch of freshly cooked chavaty and mylama (flat bread slathered with kaimak or fresh sour cream), we also had a chance to roll out korut (salty yogurt balls). This traditional Kyrgyz snack is dried out in the summer sun and can then be stored and eaten throughout the winter. Our guide explained that korut mixed with water creates a hearty drink or soup base that can keep people full for hours, providing a necessary source of energy for workers in the mountains and fields.

Although we'd spent time in yurt camps along our treks, it was fun to have the time to take part in daily rituals on the jailoo and absorb a more thorough explanation of the traditions and history behind them.

How to organize: Contact Ak-Bata Guest House in Daroot-Korgon. The owner is the daughter of the grandmother on the jailoo.

Bonus: If you have extra time, stop by one of the nearby beekeepers on your way back to Daroot-Korgon to sample esparcet honey. This valley is known for a high quality, pesticide-free honey made from sainfoin (esparcet) flowers and nettle. If you can't buy honey directly from the beekeeper, you can find containers of local honey at the markets in Daroot-Korgon or at certain shops and hotels in Osh.

Stay in a yurt

There is certainly no shortage of opportunities to stay in a yurt when you’re traveling in the Alay Region. It's one of the highlights.

Even if you don’t plan to hike or trek, spending a night in a yurt is a must. There are several yurt camps accessible to non-hikers that are worth seeking out. For example, Tulpar-Kol Lake in the Pamir Mountains is accessible by car and offers several yurt-stay options. It's also possible to arrange a transfer to/from nearby Booke yurt camp instead of making your way there by horse or on foot. Ask around at Visit Alay, CBT Sary Mogul or your guesthouse in Sary Mogul or Sary Tash for options.

What to expect when staying in a yurt

Yurts are traditional circular Kyrgyz nomadic homes that can be easily assembled, disassembled and transported. They are constructed from cured wooden components, secured with handwoven straps and covered with heavy felt. The inside is usually decorated with colorful felt carpets called shyrdaks whose designs are nature-inspired. The roof of the yurt features the tunduk, a circular opening serving skylight and ventilation. At night, the felt cover is drawn over the top of the yurt, making it dark and warm.

Upon arriving at a yurt camp, you will typically be invited inside for a welcome tea. Given the typical late afternoon arrival to yurt camps on a trek, think of this as the Kyrgyz version of high tea. Often a cloth is set down, and large cushions arranged around it for seating. In addition to the actual tea you will likely be served a combination of bread, borsok (traditional fried bread), homemade jams, honey, sweets, nuts and perhaps freshly-made yogurt or kaimak (cream). You may even be offered kymys, fermented mare’s milk. Although you may be tempted to eat everything in sight, remember to pace yourself for the dinner to follow.

Staying at a yurt camp usually includes a welcome tea, dinner, and breakfast. Be sure to let your guide or your host know in advance if you are vegetarian or have any food allergies or restrictions (e.g., lactose or gluten intolerant) as they will prepare all food fresh for you. Dinner will consist of a hot meal — soup or a hearty dish of plov (rice, vegetables and meat), potatoes mixed with meat or something similar. Breakfast often includes more bread with honey or preserves, as well as soup or sometimes fresh yogurt (ayran).

Everything happens inside the yurt – eating, sleeping, and occasionally even cooking. At night your hosts will clear everything out and lay a series of mats on the ground for you to sleep on, atop which they’ll pile heavy blankets. A yurt in the mountains approximates a womb-like environment. It’s perfectly dark and quiet. We’ve been known to accidentally sleep more than twelve hours in a yurt, so set your alarm if your plans require an early start the next morning.

Some yurts feature wood-fired or coal-burning stoves inside, making it easy to heat the yurt at night in case temperatures drop outside. There are almost always extra blankets available so don’t be afraid to ask for more if you think you might get cold. Although the bedding includes sheets and duvet-covers, we often bring a sleep sack so as to provide an extra layer of warmth and comfort.

Yurt camps are typically located near streams so there is easy access to water. Most will have a simple gravity-fed sink available for washing hands and brushing teeth. An outhouse or dry toilet (usually with toilet paper) will be a short walking distance from the yurt area. Don’t expect a shower.

Things slow down at the yurt camp, so enjoy the quiet, peace and disconnection from the world. Re-connect to nature and life around you.

Start your Pamir Highway road trip to Tajikistan

The Pamir Highway serves up one of the most epic road trips in the world as it winds its way, including through the Alay Region of southern Kyrgyzstan. This begins (or ends, depending upon the direction you choose) in Osh and continues along the M41 through the Pamir-Alay Region to the Wakhan Valley and along to Khorog, Tajikistan.

The journey can take anywhere from five days (if you’re moving quickly and not stopping much) to up to two weeks for side trips and treks. Many people only spend one night in Sary Mogul or Sary Tash village in Kyrgyzstan before moving onto Tajikistan.

However, if you have more time and flexibility we’d recommend stopping off for a couple of days for day hikes, multi-day treks or yurt stays in the Alay Region. You'll immerse yourself in some stunning mountain scenery and have the opportunity to connect with Kyrgyz nomadic culture and people. Moreover, you'll also help your body acclimatize to the high altitude. Particularly if you aren't visiting other destinations in Kyrgyzstan, don't miss this opportunity to learn.

Booking a Pamir Highway trip: When we did our Pamir Highway trip twelve years ago from Osh to Khorog (similar to this Pamir Highway tour) it was challenging to organize as there wasn't a lot of information available on how and where to book a tour or driver from Osh. Or, how to find other travelers to share the jeep and costs. Fortunately, that has changed so it's easier to plan and book a trip. Visit Alay (the local tour company in Osh that arranged our treks above) has an online departure schedule of Pamir Highway tours with available spots if you want to join an existing trip. They also offer different options of Pamir Highway tours, from 5 to 13 days, that cover different routes and include some hiking as well.

Travel Information for the Alay Region

There's not a lot of information available online about traveling in the Alay Region and how to organize a trip. We've tried to incorporate the most relevant and important travel details here.

How to organize treks and experiences in the Alay Region

If you want to travel independently and do self-guided treks, you have a lot of options. All the treks mentioned in our Alay Trekking Guide include links to uploaded digital GPS tracks. With the network of yurt camps along the trails, you don't need to worry about carrying camping equipment.

If you are like us, however, and prefer to trek with a local guide and have everything organized so that the only thing you have to worry about is enjoying yourself in the mountains, then Visit Alay in Osh is your best option for the region. They organized all the treks and visits that we've done in Alay over the last two years. We were happy with the guides, transportation, accommodation and other logistics. Disclosure: Our visits were part of tourism development projects so these treks and experiences were provided to us without cost so we could evaluate them. In any event, we confidently recommend them to anyone.

Visit Alay not only knows well all the treks and experiences possible in the Alay Region, but as the local Community Based Tourism (CBT) organization they have been responsible for some of the infrastructure and are focused on working with and supporting local family businesses. A portion of their profits goes back to training and providing investment for family yurt camps, trekking guides, and other small businesses and local providers. The manager of Visit Alay, Talant Toksonbaev, is dedicated to ensuring that tourism benefits local people. He's assembled a solid network to do this and is always trying to include more people as tourism grows in the region.

When to visit the Alay Region

The best time to visit the Alay Region is during the summer months, mid-June to early September. This is when the mountain passes are cleared of snow so the trekking trails are open, the yurt camps have been set up on the jailoo, and it's warm weather during the day. High season is mid-July to mid-August. Most yurt camps begin to close up late August or early September as they have to get their children back to the village to begin the school year.

One benefit of going early in the season – late June to mid-July — is that the valleys will be more green and filled with wildflowers. We've visited the Alay Region twice in late August and although the hills are more dry as it's the end of the summer we had the trails and yurt camps to ourselves.

The treks and trails in the lower Alay Mountains (e.g., Ak-Tor Pass Trek or Nomadic Lands) are accessible from May through September and even possibly to early October. You can also travel the Pamir Highway during most months of the year, but May to September tend to be the best months because of cold and snow.

What to pack for the Alay Region

The Alay Region is mostly about the outdoors and adventure activities, so don't worry about bringing anything formal or fancy. Since much of the Alay Region is high desert it's important to pack layers as it can get quite warm during the day and drop to low temperatures at night. In addition, some areas are really windy (e.g., Sary Tash or Sary Mogul) so it's important to have windproof or waterproof jackets to help cut the wind. Sturdy clothes and gear that can be mixed and matched and worn multiple times works best as there's not a lot of laundry opportunities.

For more details read our packing list for trekking in the Alay Mountains and our general trekking packing list.

Using Osh as your organizing gateway for Alay

Osh is not only the second biggest city in Kyrgyzstan, but it's also the easiest transportation and organizing hub for any treks or exploration of the Alay Region. You'll find all the services and you need in Osh for your travels in Alay — tours and organized treks, trekking guides, camping and trekking gear rental, snacks and food for the mountains, and more.

Not to mention, Osh is worth a visit due to its mixing bowl of cultures and Silk Road history. It's worth hanging out there for a couple of days to rest up, plan your Alay adventures, do a foodie tour or walking tour of the city, explore the huge Jayma Bazaar, and enjoy the services (e.g., good coffee) of a big city before heading into the mountains.

Accommodation in Alay Region

Accommodation in the Alay Region usually includes small, family-run guesthouses or yurt camps (mentioned above). Don't expect luxury, but you can expect clean rooms with access to a shower (often hot water) and toilet. Many places offer shared rooms, usually divided by gender. However, we've noticed that the availability of double or private rooms seems has steadily increased over the last couple of years. For example, Peak Lenin Guesthouse in Sary Mogul now offers double rooms with shower and toilet facilities inside the building. This is very welcome for traveling couples like us.

A few Alay guesthouses now offer the option of online booking. Check availability and prices of accommodation in Sary Mogul, Sary Tash, and Gulcha.

If you're coming through Osh on the way to Alay, you can easily book hotels in Osh online. On our last trip through Osh we stayed at Rayan Hotel and found it comfortable and well-located. It also serves a hearty breakfast.

Food and Clean Water in the Alay Region

Most of the food you'll eat in the Alay Region will be served by guesthouses or yurt camps. On the plus side, this means that it's always homemade and cooked fresh. On the down side it means a limited choice of what you'll eat since there are usually no menus and everyone tends to eat the same thing. This often includes a variation of rice, potatoes or pasta combined with some meat and vegetables. Usually, there are several rounds of bread on the table served with some combination of honey, jams, ghee (clarified butter), kaimak (local sour cream) or homemade yogurt.

If you are vegetarian or have food allergies (e.g., gluten, lactose, nuts, etc.) be sure to let your guide or hosts know immediately so they can prepare something different for you. Meat features prominently in many Kyrgyz dishes so vegetarians may want to bring nuts or other protein snacks to ensure a balanced diet. You can also request an egg be added to your rice or potatoes.

Possible cooking class option: If you're interested in learning how to cook traditional Kyrgyz food, and specialties from the Alay Region, ask at Lenin Peak Guesthouse if this is an option. We were able to test a cooking class with Baktugul, the mother of the house. She taught us how to make kesme plov handmade noodles stewed with meat, potatoes and tomatoes.

The 1-hour cooking class was fun and interactive. Plus, the resulting meal made for a great lunch. We've also suggested a manti (dumpling) class. So ask about that if you happen to stay there.

Trekking snacks

Our trekking guide kept us well fed with picnic lunches and snacks along the trail. Nuts and dried fruit from the Osh bazaar make for tasty, healthy snacks. However, Snickers bars (don't laugh) are also kind of magical, particularly when they're offered after a grueling ascent. They are available in most villages.

Clean water

Most guesthouses and yurt camps will provide you with boiled water if you request it. So you can refill your reusable water bottle or water bladder. We carried both as we found that the water bladder was best for drinking continually during the trek to stay hydrated while the water bottle was better for drinking water at stops.

Please do not buy bottled water and carry it into the mountains. This approach will only leave a trail of plastic waste since there is no recycling in the area. Read more on how to reduce single-use plastics when traveling.

We recommend carrying water purification drops or a SteriPEN with you just in case. This way, you'll always be assured of having a path to purifying your water. Use them if you need to refill your water bottle along the trail and you're not sure of the cleanliness of the stream or if you want to be extra careful about the water you've received from your host.

How to acclimatize in the Alay Region

Altitude sickness is nothing to mess with. It's not only uncomfortable, but it can actually be very dangerous for your health if not addressed properly and immediately. The best way to help yourself avoid altitude sickness issues is by taking a few days to acclimatize properly before going into the high mountains for a high altitude trek or a Pamir Highway road trip.

At a minimum, consider spending a couple of days in a mountain village (e.g., Sary Tash or Sary Mogul) and be sure to walk around a lot to see how your body handles movement in the thin air. Even better, do an acclimatization hike. For example, hike up to Koshkol Lakes where you go up in altitude during the day, but then sleep at lower elevation (e.g., Sary Mogul village). Another good option is to do a short two to three day trek in the lower Alay Mountains to accustom your body to hiking and sleeping at slightly higher altitude.

In addition, be sure to drink lots of water when in the mountains. Move slowly, too. There's no race to the top. Slower movement and fewer breaks is better for your body then moving quickly and taking longer breaks with a heaving chest to recover.

How to get to the Alay Region

Although the Alay Region (southern Kyrgyzstan) is remote, it's more accessible than you might think. There are several transportation options and routes to get there from within Kyrgyzstan, and from neighboring Uzbekistan, Tajikistan or China. The city of Osh serves as the main transportation jumping off point for shared taxis, marshrutkas and private transport going into the Alay Region. Then, there are public and private transport options between villages and towns inside the region.

For a full description of all the ways to get to Osh, read this.

Traveling to Alay Region from inside Kyrgyzstan

If you're already traveling in Kyrgyzstan and want to get to Osh and then the Alay Region you have a couple of options with flights or land transport (e.g., shared taxi, marshrutkas, private transport).

Flights from Bishkek to Osh: During our recent visits to Osh we flew from Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan's capital. It's a quick 45-minute flight to Osh on Pegasus Airway/Air Manas that is inexpensive (e.g., $30-$45) and easy to book online (we usually search for flights with Skyscanner). If you time it right you can even arrive in Bishkek from your international flight and then hop on a flight to Osh a couple of hours later.

Note: In the summer months, 50-minute flights to Osh from Tamchy (north shore of Lake Issyk-Kul) are sometimes offered. If you're spending time in Karakol or the Issyk-Kul region, this is a good option.

Traveling to Osh and Alay by land: Kyrgyzstan has a network of shared taxis and marshtrutkas that will take you almost everywhere if you have enough time. The most common land connections to Osh are from Bishkek (shared taxi only), Jalal-Abad (2 hours), and Naryn. From other parts of the country it's often easiest and fastest to return to Bishkek and travel south from there.

To Alay from China and Tajikistan border crossings

If you're crossing the Irkeshtam border from China (Xinjiang Region) there are usually shared taxis available that will take you to Sary Tash village, which is one of the jumping off points for the Alay Region. If you're coming from the Kyzylart – Bor Dobo border crossing with Tajikistan along the Pamir Highway you'll go through Sary Tash and/or Sary Mogul villages.

To Alay from Uzbekistan and Dostuk border crossing

It has become much easier the last years to travel to Alay (and Kyrgyzstan) overland from Uzbekistan. The borders have opened up and Uzbekistan now offers a visa-free regime (up to 30 days) for many countries. The Dostuk border crossing with Uzbekistan is just 10 km outside of Osh and there are shared taxis or marshrutkas waiting at the border to take you to the city. From there you can arrange onward transport into the Alay Region.

Transportation Options: How to get around the Alay Region

Alay has a network of shared taxis and marshrutkas that will take you between villages and towns in the region. However, you will often need private transport to get to many of the trailheads or yurt camps. This can either be booked in advance as part of an organized trek or tour, or you can organize it at your local guest house. Try to join an existing transfer or departure to reduce your costs and your environmental footprint.

For example, the route between Sary Mogul and Tulpar-Kol Lake is quite popular in the summer months as many travelers spend time at the yurt camps there and do some hiking in the Pamir Mountains. Ask around at your local guest house, with other travelers, or contact Visit Alay to see when a vehicle might be heading up there and if space is available.

The post Alay Region, Kyrgyzstan: An Experiential Travel Guide appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Every year we try to go on a big trek, one that takes us far far away and high into the mountains. For us, it's not only a way to exercise our bodies, but to clear and challenge our minds. It’s a way to disconnect from all that is part of our daily life — technology, social media, blogging — and reconnect with nature and ourselves.

Our trek of the Markha Valley in Ladakh in India’s high Himalayas was one of our favorite treks of all time. We had dangerously high expectations, having dreamed of this region for over a decade. Fortunately, what we found in Ladakh and on our trek far exceeded what we had imagined, not only in terms of the stunning landscape but also the Ladakhi people.

Update: This article was originally published in January 2014 and updated in July 2019 with current 2019 prices, a Ladakh trekking packing list and other information.

Update: You can now buy the Ladakh Trekking: A Beginner’s Guide with all the information from this site plus lots of extra details and other goodies (like packing and other preparation) in an easy ebook that you can download and take with you.

Choosing a trek in Ladakh

There are loads of trekking choices in Ladakh. Your choice will depend on the amount of time you have, how remote you'd like to go, and the difficultly level you seek. Some of the more remote treks require special permits as they may go into sensitive border areas, but trekking agencies can easily take care of this for you within a day or two.

There are endless variations of treks you can take in Ladakh, with many taking you to remote areas and can go up to three weeks. You can find a full list of Ladakh trekking options here.

Some of the more popular treks in Ladakh include:

• Markha Valley Trek (6-7 days): This is the one that we chose because it combined hiking and landscapes with people and culture by incorporating homestays with families in villages along the way. For us, this combination is ideal and resulted in a trekking experience that exceeded our expectations. The Markha Valley Trek is also the most popular Ladakh trek and we’re told it can get crowded in the high season (July and August). If you travel to Ladakh during high season, take this into consideration and perhaps choose a less popular trek to avoid crowded trails and home accommodations.
• Hidden Valleys of Ladakh, Zanskar Range (9-10 days): This trek takes you into the Zanskar range and through small villages throughout the valley area. Camping gear is required as it’s not possible to do homestays for the entire trek.
• Nubra Valley (5-6 days): This can either be done without much trekking for 2-3 days, or it can be a fuller trekking experience with camping, camel rides and more. We’ve heard the area is quite beautiful.
• Kharnak trek (15 days): Begins like the Markha Valley trek but continues further south for another week. A Ladakhi trekking guide told us this is one of his favorite treks.
• Rumtse to Tsomoriri (8-9 days): This was another favorite trek from a guide we spoke to because of the beauty of the lakes and the joy of interaction with shepherds along the way. This trek is on the short list for when we return.

To trek independently or with a guide?

Some treks require a guide due to the difficulty of the trail or local regulations. Other routes like the Markha Valley Trek can be done independently (e.g., without a guide) because the trail is pretty well marked and there are villages to stay in throughout the way. You then have the decision of whether to go on your own or hire a guide. Factors include: budget, your trekking experience, skill at reading trekking maps, and weather. Let's examine these.

Although our Markha Valley trek could have been done without a guide, we were thankful to have one. Having a local guide provided us with the peace of mind that we were always on the right path (as some of you may remember, we have a history of getting lost in mountains).

As luck would have it, we crossed our first Markha Valley trek mountain pass in the middle of a snow storm. Without our guide, we never would have found the correct approach. Two guys trekking independently with us said they would have turned back that day if it weren’t for our guide to help them find the path. Word to the wise: It pays to hitch a ride with Dan and Audrey…if they have a guide!

Our local guide also provided local context and culture (e.g., Ladakhi Buddhist) to the experience. We asked him many questions about his life growing up in a remote village in Ladakh and the changes he’d seen in his short lifetime. He served as an interpreter, providing us the flexibility to have conversations with families we stayed with or ask questions of people we'd met along the way.

So while trekking Ladakh independently may save you some money and perhaps allow you a little more flexibility, our experience proved to us beyond a doubt that the benefits of having a guide in this region far outweighs the costs.

Ladakh Accommodation and Sleeping Options: Camping or Homestay?

Some treks will give you the option of either camping or homestays (staying with Ladakhi families in villages). Here are the advantages and disadvantages of both.

Camping: The primary advantage of camping (if you are going with an agency) is that it includes a horse to carry your bags so you don’t have to haul your stuff on your back up to 5,000+ meters and back down again. Another bonus: you can sometimes camp closer to passes, making for easier ascents. A perhaps obvious disadvantage of camping: sleeping in a tent when it’s rainy and cold or blowing snow can be unpleasant. In addition, this option is usually more expensive as you'll need your own cook and horse guide in addition to your trekking guide.

Homestays: If the trek you choose offers the option of homestays, we suggest taking it. Staying with Ladakhi families in villages throughout our Markha Valley trek was absolutely one of the highlights and delights of the experience. The people, culture and tradition ground you. Food (see below) is also a fun facet. Not to mention, homestays are typically less expensive than camping.

Note: We recently met the founder of Mountain Homestays, a social enterprise working to empower rural communities through the development of homestays together with local people and families. You can search for unique Ladakh homestays here, including those focused on astronomy where you have access to a powerful telescope to explore the sky in almost perfect high altitude and remote conditions.

What to expect in a Ladakhi homestay:

• Home-cooked meals: All food is vegetarian, which is better and safer for the digestive system, particularly at altitude. Alert the trekking agency, your guide and host families in advance if you have any food allergies. Dinner is often quite hearty and is either a traditional Tibetan/Ladakhi meal like momos (Tibetan dumplings) or temo (twisted bread dumplings) with daal (lentils) or greens from the garden. All our dinners were made freshly for us and were very tasty. Breakfast, a little less remarkable, usually consists of Indian flat bread (chapatis) with butter and jelly, while lunch is some sort of bread with packaged sliced cheese, hard boiled egg and some snacks.
• Sleeping area: Sleeping in homestays usually consists of mattresses on the ground with lots of blankets piled on top. If you’re trekking in the high season you might need to share your room with other trekkers. For us, we had our own room most nights. Take a sleep sack with you. Sheets looked pretty clean, but it was unclear when the last time blankets were cleaned.
• Toilets: Expect bleak. Outhouses or compost toilets are usually attached to the house or just outside. They do the trick, but don’t expect any luxury here. Bring a headlamp so you don't, um, accidentally slip and fall.
• Common room: Some of the best memories at the homestays come from hanging around drinking tea around the traditional stove in the big common room. The bedroom is for sleeping, but this common room is where you should spend most of your time during a homestay.

What to look for in a Ladakhi trekking agency and guide.

Book a tour in advance or on the ground?

We did not make any bookings or inquiries for treks before arriving in Leh. We figured that we would use the two to three days acclimatizing in Leh (absolutely required if you plan to enjoy your trek) to research all our options and book our trek. Since we traveled in shoulder season, this provided plenty of time to make our arrangements.

If you decide to travel during high season (July-August), you may not have the same flexibility. Consider sending a few email inquiries in advance to be certain that agencies are not already at capacity with their guides and tours.

Update: If you are looking for a trek in Ladakh with social impact and purpose we recommend you check out Global Himalayan Expedition (GHE). We recently met the founder, Paras Loomba, and were impressed by him and the work of this social enterprise. Its mission is to electrify villages through solar energy, and one of the ways it does so is through trekking and travel experiences in Ladakh.

This means that its trekking expeditions not only provide travelers with an incredible trekking experience in Ladakh, but they also provide the opportunity to help bring electricity and solar energy to a remote mountain village. GHE also trains local families in hospitality and helps them set up homestays so that they have additional sources of income and employment that help keep people in these remote, rural areas. This not only preserves these villages, but also the unique culture in them that would otherwise die out with migration to bigger towns and cities.

Choosing a trekking agency in Leh

You will see trekking agents everywhere in Leh. Many of them will have signs outside advertising their treks, as well as notices if they are looking for more people to fill treks with specific departure dates. The idea here is that the more people who trek together and share a guide, the lower the per-person cost should be. We originally hoped to join one of these treks, but the timing didn’t work out with our schedule.

We walked around Leh for an afternoon visiting various agencies asking questions about trek options, costs, departure dates and flexibility to add on stops. Most of the trekking agencies gave us a similar price range so our decision was made based on the feeling we got from the agency (e.g., did the agency feel like a middleman or were they actually responsible for their own guides and tours), their patience, and their flexibility to accommodate special requests.

We chose Ecological Footprint in the end because we liked how the owner, Stanzin, explained all our options and was flexible to work with us to create a trek that met our needs, not just one that fit into a prepackaged box. In addition, Stanzin is Ladakhi and know the community well. All the tours he operates use local people and aim to invest back into the communities. So while the tour was slightly more expensive than what some of the other tour agencies were offering, we felt that the price was worth it for the quality of the experience. We believed that our money was well spent.

We can also highly recommend our guide from Ecological Footprint, Dorjee Tondup. He is young but wise beyond his years and dispenses bits of perspective and peace everywhere he goes. His respectful approach to local people opened doors for us everywhere. His approach to everyone he met served as a lesson for life. He guides on all the major Ladakh trekking routes.

Choosing a guide

Although you may or may not have the option to choose a specific Ladakh trekking guide, we offer a few questions and suggestions to help you find a good match.

Ask to meet the guide before you leave on your trek.

This is something we usually do before any trek to give us peace of mind that we’ll get along well with our guide. We’ve never had to change guides, but if you do think that the guide assigned to you will be problematic then ask for a change. Remember, it’s a long journey. It will be particularly long if you must spend it with someone who rubs you the wrong way. Not to mention, you'll want someone you feel comfortable with and trust in the case that weather or health turn south. We know this firsthand because a guide from another agency who trekked alongside us in Ladakh annoyed absolutely everyone, including his own client. We spent energy trying to avoid him.

Ask for a Ladakhi guide.

During high season in Ladakh, demand for guides is high and so people come from all over India to guide for the summer. We don’t want to discriminate, but we feel that you'll have a better experience with someone who is a Ladakhi guide because of the knowledge of local culture and language. Our trekking companions had an Indian guide, and while he knew the mountain trails, he didn't know the families running the homestays or the Ladakhi language and culture.

Explain any special needs to the guide.

This goes for medical needs, as well as any other idiosyncrasies you might have. For example, we take a lot of photos so we stop a lot on the trail and slow things down. Alerting the guide in advance of this behavior lets the guide know not to worry when it takes us a while to go from point A to B. He can adjust his pace accordingly. One of the women trekking at the same time as us had back issues, so her guide would often carry one of her bags for her when her back ached. The idea: help your guide help you.

Estimated Costs for Markha Valley Trek

The updated price for our Markha Valley Trek (6 nights/7 days) including a guide, accommodation (homestay), food and transport to/from the trek is around 20,000 rupees per person. This also included a stop at Hemis Monastery on the way back to Leh. (Not all trekking agencies offer this, so ask about it. We really enjoyed the additional stop on the return and recommend it.)

This was slightly cheaper than some of the other trekking agencies while others offered bare bone prices at 1,600-2,000 rupees per person per day. Understand that you typically get what you pay for.

Homestay costs on Markha Valley Trek (Updated 2019)

If you do decide to do the Markha Valley Trek independently, find out in Leh what the official rate is for homestays that year. The official rate is a standard amount set every year by the homestay association so that the families all charge the same amount and don’t try to underbid each other (thereby causing tensions in the community).

Updated homestay prices, July 2019: The the standard Markha Valley homestay rate is 1,200 Rs ($17.50) per night per person. This includes dinner, breakfast and a packed lunch. A tent at Nimiling is 1,400 Rs ($20.50).

When to Trek in Ladakh?

The trekking season in Ladakh really begins to take off early-to-mid June and runs until September. The high season is July and August with August being the busiest month. Rains usually start late August to September. If you can time it, we recommend going early in the shoulder season in June. Note that weather is always the wild card, however.

Our trek was mid-June and there was hardly anyone (6 people) along our entire Markha Valley route. This meant that the homestays were not crowded and there were no traffic jams on the paths. We experienced a surprise snowstorm on our second morning at the first pass, but that just added to the excitement and meant that all the mountains around us sported a beautiful covering of snow.

Acclimatization and Accommodation in Leh before Trekking

No matter which trek you choose, be sure to spend at least two days acclimatizing in Leh (or wherever the setting off point of your Ladakh trek happens to be). Take a walk through the old town up to Leh Palace and Namgyal Tsemo Gompa. This helps get the blood pumping and the legs moving. It also gives you some experience climbing hills at altitude.

If you are susceptible to altitude sickness, consider taking even more time to acclimatize in Leh. Your hike will be more enjoyable and successful for it.

As for where to stay in Leh, there are a lot of guesthouses and hotels for every budget. You can search here to see which hotels are available during your visit and compare prices.

The owner of Ecological Footprints, the trekking agency we used, has recently opened up a guesthouse called EcoResidency. We haven't stayed there yet, but it looks quite nice and quiet.

Food recommendations in Leh

Summer Harvest: Best momos in town. We feel confident in this statement as we sampled momos in four different restaurants and kitchens in town. Be sure to ask for the homemade hot sauce. We never ventured beyond momos (they were that good), but other dishes emerging from the kitchen looked tasty as well.

German bakeries: Don’t ask me why, but Leh is bursting with German bakeries. They don’t all have their own ovens, so it seems like they get their baked goods from a central German bakery source. If you’re craving a cinnamon roll or some quasi European pastries, stop by one of these and enjoy with a chai. Quality is mixed, but when you consider how remote you are, you'll be grateful.

Lassi guy: In the alleyway just to the right of the mosque on Leh Bazaar is a tiny place with this friendly guy making and selling yogurt and paneer (Indian cheese). For a few rupees he’ll create a fresh sweet or salty lassi for you and invite you in to enjoy a seat while he explains how he makes it all. Highly recommended.

Monasteries and Other Sites in Ladakh

On our return journey from Leh to Srinigar we hired a driver from Leh to take us to visit a few monasteries on the way to Lamayuru, where we dropped us off and then picked up in the evening (pre-arranged) by a driver/shared jeep en route to Srinigar for the overnight drive.

Update: There is now an online shared taxi service in Ladakh to find other travelers going to the same monasteries, villages or trailheads. This not only shares the cost of the taxi or jeep, but more people in the same vehicle also reduces the carbon footprint of your travel and makes it more environmentally sound.

Likir Monastery

While traveling, we often find ourselves focused on the present. This is a good thing. Then, something helps us appreciate the history, the roots of where we happen to be. This too, is useful because it provides perspective.

Likir Buddhist Monastery in Ladakh, at almost 1,000 years old, is one of those places.

For much of our visit to Likir Monastery we were alone, save a sole monk who tidied up and made sure visitors took their shoes off before entering the temples. We enjoyed it all in peace and found ourselves stepping back, literally and figuratively, just trying to imagine how monks had gathered in those spaces for centuries — chanting, meditating, praying.

Alchi Monastery

Built in the 10th to 11th century, Alchi Monastery is made up of three major shrines. It's located not far from Leh, so it's an easy to visit on a day trip or en route to Lamayuru (like we did).

Lamayuru Monastery

Lamayuru is one of the small towns in Ladakh, named after the famous Lamayuru Monastery perched high above the town. It's a nice walk up to the monastery with a view of the town below, interesting chortens in this high desert landscape, and intimate temples.

Transport: How to get to Ladakh

Unless you have your own set of wheels (or wings) there are three main routes to get to and from Ladakh.

By Bus or Shared Taxi to Leh:

Taking the public or regular bus is the cheapest option and certainly delivers an experience, but it is often the slowest option. To book a shared taxi or jeep to/from Ladakh consider using this newly developed Ladakh shared taxi booking system to help you find other travelers to share the cost and space. This not only saves you money, but with more people in each jeep it also reduces the environmental footprint.

Srinigar to Leh: You have the option to take a two-day “Super Deluxe” bus (overnight in Kargil) or a 12-hour shared ride in a private jeep (with 6 other passengers). Both leave from the same area in Srinagar. Please note that the roads are only open for a short period each year, usually from May – September.

We flew from Mumbai to Srinagar and then took the bus up to Leh and a shared jeep for the return leg to Srinagar. If you have more time, consider taking the train from wherever you are in India to Jammu and pepper in a few strategic visits and stops along the way to Srinagar.

There are, of course, advantages and disadvantages to the bus and jeep. While the bus ride from Srinagar to Leh is long and not particularly comfortable, you are able to take a lot of photos out the window, as the pace is glacial, snail-like for much of the way. It's also an experience to travel with locals (e.g., Buddhist monks hopping on and off) and fellow adventurous travelers. Suggestion: try not to focus on the missing guardrails along the way. A dose of fatalism may also help.

Bus and Shared Jeep Costs from Srinagar to Leh (Updated 2019): Bus tickets = 1,399 Rs/person. Jeep price depends on your negotiation skills, but usually costs between 2,300-2,700 Rs/person depending upon which seat you have (i.e., back seats are cheaper).

Manali to Leh: This route from the south also features the option of a 2-day bus trip vs. 16-20 hours in a shared jeep. We didn’t take this route so can’t speak to it firsthand, but we met several people who did. The roads seem to be in worse shape than the Srinagar route, but you go over four large mountain passes which are supposed to be stunning. If you’re coming from Delhi, this is the more direct route. The roads are usually open for a few months of the year, again from June – September.

Bus and Shared Jeep Costs from Manali to Leh (Updated 2019): Bus tickets = from 900 Rs/person for the standard HRTC bus to 2,700 Rs/person for the more comfortable Volvo Bus. Jeep price between 3,700 – 4,100 Rs/person depending upon which seat you have (i.e., back seats are cheaper).

Update: We have heard that recent road improvements have shortened the length of this journey and have made it more safe.

By Plane to Ladakh

Flying into Leh is certainly more expedient, but you'll miss the beauty and adventure of the roads. The views from the skies in the mountains are supposed to pretty spectacular, however. Be sure to leave buffer days in your travel schedule if you fly as flights are frequently canceled due to bad weather.

Most planes fly from either Delhi, Srinagar and Mumbai (new in 2016). Try to book your tickets early as prices go up very quickly. Begin your flight search with Skyscanner as it includes all low-cost airlines in its listings.

Ladakh Trekking Packing List

Much of what we include in our How to Pack for a Trek article applies to trekking in Ladakh. However, we offer a customized Markha Valley trek packing list to ensure you have all you need to enjoy the mountains yet don’t overpack.

Since we chose the Markha Valley trek with homestays this meant that we didn't need to worry about tents, sleeping gear or food. We carried our own gear (mostly clothes) in a small backpack. The goal is to be sure you have all the layers you need to be comfortable in Ladakh's varied weather, but to not carry too much so as to struggle with your backpack's weight on the high mountain passes.

If you are doing another trek in Ladakh that includes camping instead of homestays then you'll need to bring (or rent) sleeping bags, sleeping mats, and other camping gear.

Trekking Backpack

Recommended women's backpack: Deuter ACT Trail Pro 32 SL Backpack – Very light and comfortable to carry. Includes all sorts of great functionality like a built-in rain cover, water bladder compatibility, wide waist belt for stability, and more. Love this backpack. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI (28-liter)

Recommended men's hiking backpack: Osprey Packs Exos 38 Backpack – This backpack comes in several sizes, and the Large version is well-suited for tall people. Light, comfortable, and durable. The walking stick holder is a little janky, but the rest of the backpack is well-designed. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI (48-liter)

Trekking Clothes and Shoes

You don’t need a lot of different clothes. Don’t worry about wearing the same thing every day. Everyone does it. It's more about having the proper layers since temperatures may rise and fall dramatically between day and night as Ladakh is a high desert. Here are the trekking clothes we suggest for a Ladakh trek.

• 1 set of hiking clothes: T-shirt (preferably quick dry), long-sleeved hiking shirt (his and hers)) or pullover, shorts or trekking pants, hiking socks.
• 1 set of sleeping clothes: T-shirt, pajama bottoms (or yoga pants), socks. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside your backpack.
• Ski hat and gloves: This may not be necessary later in the season, but by early to mid-June we were very thankful to have these as we were stuck in a snowstorm on our 2nd day.
• Hat and sunglasses: The sun's rays are exceptionally powerful at this altitude and you'll find yourself especially exposed when there isn't a cloud in the sky. Be sure to wear a hat at all times to protect your face and sunglasses to protect your eyes.
• Hiking shoes: Low-rise hiking shoes are fine, but if you have weak ankles consider bringing full support shoes. We both recently shifted to wearing Oboz Sawtooth hiking boots. The insoles and support for your feet are really good, and the shoes are sturdy and can stand up to some tough terrain. In addition, Oboz plants a tree for every pair of shoes sold so you can feel good that your purchase is going towards reforestation and environmental projects.Men's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon. Women's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon
• Extra t-shirt: Just in case.
• Underwear for every day of your trek: With an extra pair thrown in for good measure, if you like. Recommended his and hers
• Extra pair of socks: Just in case you want to switch out or it's freezing and you need an extra layer to stay warm in your sleeping bag.
• Fleece or other shell jacket: For cool nights or sleeping.
• Rain jacket (optional): Just in case it rains. We used ours as an extra layer to stay warm at night. I recently upgraded to a NorthFace Climatech technology waterproof jacket and I love it. It not only provided protection against the rain and cold, but the jacket material is very breathable so it didn't feel like a sauna inside when trekking in it. Highly recommended. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon.
• Thermal underwear (top/bottom): If you're trekking either early or late in the season, consider bringing along some silk long johns as they are warm, comfy and take up almost no room at all.
• River shoes or flip flops: At the end of a long day of walking you may want to take off your hiking shoes and give your feet a rest. But you'll still need something on your feet to go to and from the outhouse or nearest bush. That's where flip flops or river shoes worn with socks (yes, ignore the fashion police) are perfect.Buy on Amazon (Women's) | Men's River Shoes

Other Recommended Trekking Gear

• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand.
• Camera bag: If you are carrying a separate DSLR or mirrorless camera I suggest a camera bag that you can wear on your waist so that your trekking backpack rests on top. I really like the ThinkTank Sling Camera Bag which fits a mirrorless camera body and two lenses. It is comfortable for hiking as it sits right on my hips and I can still wear a backpack or daypack that rests on top of it.
• Reusable water bottle: We carry a reusable liter water bottle on us and refill along the way. A CamelBak water bladder in the backpack also works really well. Homestays (and some tea houses) will be able to provide you with purified water so just refill your bottle each time you have access to clean water. Even if the trek does sell bottled water, please don't purchase it. Plastic bottle waste is an enormous problem at elevation and in villages that have no options for garbage disposal.
• Water Purification: Although the homestays will provide you with clean water it's good to carry some purification or sterilization drops in case you need additional water from
  a mountain stream or non-purified village tap.
• Walking stick: Highly recommended, especially for downhill sections to help with balance and to take some of the pressure off your joints. Two walking sticks or one, you ask? That's a personal preference. We usually share a walking stick set of two so each of us uses one stick.
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off your hands or face.
• Sleep sack: To provide a clean layer between you and blankets provided at the homestays.
• Headlamp: Some of the homestays do not have electricity or lights. Carry your own headlamp to find your way to the outhouse or to sort through your stuff at night.

Toiletries and Health Kit

• Soap, toothbrush, toothpaste, dental floss: You know, the basics. And don't laugh at us that we put dental floss as a basic.
• Sunscreen: The higher the SPF of the sunscreen, the better. The sun is very powerful at this high altitude.
• Sunglasses: Necessary. That sun is darn strong.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side.
• Pack of tissues or roll of toilet paper: Always a good idea to carry your own, just in case.
• Blister care: Duct tape is remarkably effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet if you address them when you first feel them. Compeed is magic when you already have blisters as it essentially covers your blisters with a protective later which allows them to heal below.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration packets, ciprofloxacin/azithromycin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea). Note: All this can be easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Leh.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

Although some homestays may have solar energy that you can use to charge your smartphone it's best to be prepared in case you don't have any access to electricity during your trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode. There is no connectivity along the trek anyhow, so don't waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. Here’s an example for our iPhone X battery case. Alternatively, you could carry a Mophie charger. They all provide another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spend time reviewing your images on your phone or in the camera viewfinder, as this will quickly consume battery power. Unless you are reviewing images to determine whether you’ve captured a specific shot, there will be time enough for photo review when your trek is finished.
• Solar-Powered Energy Bank: If you really are concerned about charging your phone and gear along the way, consider bringing a solar powered power bank.

Still have questions about Ladakh and trekking there? Ask away in the comments below!

Update: You can now buy the Ladakh Trekking: A Beginner’s Guide with all the information from this site plus extra details and other goodies (like packing and other preparation) in an easy ebook that you can download and take with you.

The post Ladakh Trekking: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Uncornered Market.

That’s where some of the lesser known places in northern India like Amritsar, Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj, and Shimla come in. These destinations fall outside the popular and traditional India tourist itineraries and feature smaller towns with fewer foreign visitors (we were often the only ones), cooler temperatures, beautiful temples, a diversity of religions, a toy train that features one of the most picturesque train journeys in the country, and opening vistas to the edge of the snow-covered Himalayas.

This Experiential Guide offers 20 ideas and inspiration on what to do and places to visit in northern India outside the Golden Triangle, focusing instead on Amritsar, Dharamshala/McLeod Ganj, and Shimla. There is good reason why these areas of Punjab and Himachal Pradesh have been our travel wish list for over a decade.

Northern India (Beyond the Golden Triangle): 20 Things to Do, Places to Visit, and Dishes to Eat

For those of you who love maps — as we do — here is a visual of our 7-9 day route through northern India on our G Adventures tour.

1. Catch a ride from Delhi airport with a women only taxi company

Here’s something you don’t see every day: an all-women driver taxi service. Unusual in any destination, but especially so in India. As we exited Delhi airport all the drivers waiting to collect passengers were men, except for our driver, Reena.

Here’s why.

Women with Wheels is a Planeterra Foundation project which partners with the Azad Foundation and the Sakha organization as they provide training and employment to disadvantaged women in Delhi. All G Adventures travelers arriving at Delhi airport have a Women on Wheels pickup included in their tour. This not only provides travelers a safe and comfortable ride to their accommodation in town, but it also means a steady source of income for the women drivers.

Reena, our driver, possessed the requisite nerves of steel and calm required to drive in Delhi, especially during its morning rush hour traffic.

Note: In addition to Delhi, Sakha also operates similar women-only taxi services in Kolkata and Jaipur. You can book your taxi online here.

2. Sit back and enjoy tea on the Delhi to Amritsar Shatabdi Express train

One of the reasons we chose this particular G Adventures tour in northern India: trains. We are train junkies. It’s our favorite way to travel, especially in India where the experience is more than just getting from A to B. It’s about the movement of the train, the flow of landscapes from urban to rural, the people you meet, and the melodic rhythm of life on an Indian train.

Even tea time on the train is special.

3. Admire the high kicks, posturing and mustache competition at the Wagah India-Pakistan border ceremony

Although we’ve experienced our share of bizarre land borders as we’ve crossed from one country to the next, we’ve never encountered anything like the Wagah border ceremony between India and Pakistan. The ceremony takes place daily in the late afternoon as the gates between the two countries prepare to close for the evening.

Imagine a stadium that seats 30,000 fans (on the Indian side), a military officer emcee who riles up the audience to cheer as loudly as possible to drown out the Pakistani crowds on the other side, an Indian flag waving parade of young women and girls, and a mosh pit where riled hordes dance to their favorite Bollywood songs.

And this all goes down before the actual ceremony even begins. Bollywood couldn’t script it any better. Here’s a video taste of what you get:

Don’t worry though. At the end of all this machismo and power posturing, the sides shake hands, indicating peace holds for yet another day.

Visiting the Wagah border ceremony: Foreigners are separated from Indians as they enter the stadium, then seated in a separate section. It can get very hot waiting for the festivities to begin. Consider choosing a seat in the shade up top before making your way down later. Security is tight. Leave all belongings in your vehicle, except the basics: passport, wallet, phone, and camera. Although small purses are usually allowed, camera bags are not.

4. Enjoy the Golden Temple at night

The Golden Temple in Amritsar by night: stunning. Not only does the physical beauty of this place make it so. The atmosphere — welcoming, peaceful and inclusive — does, too.

As the preeminent pilgrimage site of Sikhism, the temple complex courses around the clock with visitors. Despite the constant flow of people, a calm, quiet and meditative feeling prevails. All are welcome, respected and even cared for, no matter their circumstances. ⠀

Even though we’d had the Golden Temple in Amritsar on our minds for years, the nuanced sort of wonder that defined our experience exceeded expectations.

Our suggestion: after taking a walk around the temple complex, find a quiet place to sit and simply be present.

5. Admire how a team of volunteers feeds 60-100k people each day at the Golden Temple langar (kitchen)

One of the most remarkable features of the Golden Temple at Amritsar is its langar, a sprawling kitchen serving free hot meals to 60,000-100,000 people each day. Just try to get your head around that. The scale of food service here boggles the mind.⠀

Also remarkable is that food preparation and service is accomplished mainly by volunteers, with ingredients and money donated by members of the community. Seva, or “selfless service,” is a key precept of the Sikh religion. The Golden Temple attracts volunteers from all over India, and the world.

⠀⠀
During our morning tour, our local guide took us through the kitchen area to witness volunteers preparing for the breakfast shift. Everyone worked side by side — from fire-stoking to chapati-making to dish washing — focused solely on serving others. The atmosphere, humbling. The rhythm, meditative.

6. Enjoy winding views of the Himalayan foothills in Himachal Pradesh

As you depart the lowland plains of Amritsar and head into the hills of the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, the journey begins to switchback wind its way up into mid-mountain territory. Temperatures dip a bit, air freshens.

And the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayas and Ladakh begin to reveal themselves in the distance, just as they accompany us on our drive to the towns of Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj.⠀

When you look at a map and consider distances in northern India it’s easy to think, “Oh, those distances aren’t so great. It won’t take long.”

No.

What you’re not taking into consideration: the small 2-lane winding mountain roads. Yes, it can take 5-7 hours to go 140-150 km.

The upside? All the views. Lush terraced fields, little villages, endless hills, and snow-covered mountains peaking in the distance. As a bonus, if you have a driver like ours you also get some Punjabi hits to accompany the Himachal Pradesh landscapes and 10 different horn melodies he uses to blast warnings to others on the road.

7. Turn the prayer wheels – and keep your eye out for the Dalai Lama — at Tsuglagkhang Buddhist Temple at McLeod Ganj

McLeod Ganj, a once-sleepy town just up the hill from Dharamshala, is now the home of the Dalai Lama and the headquarters of the Tibetan government in exile. Since the Dalai Lama fled to India in 1959, it has become home to tens of thousands of Tibetan refugees, lending the town a strong Tibetan cultural feel.

Although the Tsuglagkhang Temple Complex is where the Dalai Lama resides today, don’t expect to just run into him in passing. He’s busy about the world. But you can enjoy a peaceful walk around the temple – and enjoy its impressive collection of murals, statues and prayer wheels.

Turn each mani prayer wheel clock-wise. Or just be present in the moment.

Note: If you want to learn more about Tibetan culture, arts and religion, be sure to check out the Norbulingka Institute near Dharamshala. The rest of our G Adventures group visited and said that the grounds and gardens were incredibly peaceful and pleasant.

8. Hit the hills outside of Dharamshala for a day hike to Triund Hill

We couldn’t resist getting closer to the mountains outside of Dharamshala. So we hiked up to Triund Hill (2,800 meters / 9,200 feet). The view from the top includes sweeping looks of the Dhauladhar Range. This is the reward for a day hike up a fairly well-defined but rocky path from McLeod Ganj through the village of Dharamkot. It's definitely worth the steep climb and the 20km round trip of hiking.

Note: The hike from McLeod Ganj is around 9km one way, and 7 km from Dharamkot. We began our day further down the hill. That's why our walk turned out to be 20km. We were tired by day's end, but it’s easily accomplished as a day hike.

9. Get your momo fix in McLeod Ganj

I have a bit of a dumpling obsession, no matter the variety or origin. After our descent from Triund Hill, the first thing on my mind were momos, Tibetan dumplings filled with vegetables or meat, served either steamed or fried. They are usually served with a roasted chili hot sauce. Delicious at any time, but especially so after hiking 20km.

The steamed veggie momos are my favorite. If you’re sharing with a group, you can sample fried and steamed and come to your own conclusion. Although we enjoyed the fried greens at Tibet Kitchen and believe that their momo skins are ideal, we actually enjoyed the flavor and filling of the veg steamed momos at United Restaurant and Café, just down and across the street.

10. Hang with the pilgrims at Rewalsar Lake

Rewalsar Lake near the town of Mandi is perhaps an unlikely stop, but it's one which helps break up the long journey from Dharamshala to Shimla. It's a peaceful and welcoming one, too.

Legend has it that the great Buddhist teacher Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) took flight from Rewalsar to Tibet and spread Mahayana Buddhism there. Today, Rewalsar is a sacred destination for Hindus, Sikhs and Buddhists; temples from each religion ring the water. Pilgrims circle around the lake with Mani prayer wheels in hand and prayers on their lips.

Given the surprised looks our group received, foreign travelers – as yet, anyhow – typically don’t visit this sleepy pilgrimage town. However, that didn’t stop locals and visiting pilgrims from flashing smiles and engaging with us as they gathered with friends on park benches at the end of the day.

11. Walk The Ridge in Shimla and feel transported to England…and another era

The British chose the once sleepy hill station of forested Shimla as their summer capital (1864 – 1947) so as to escape the heat and crush of Delhi. You can still see the surprisingly well-maintained remnants of this today. Shimla is now a bustling and not-so-little hill town filled with pedestrian-only promenades, churches, and British mock Tudor and colonial architecture.

With its cooler temperatures and views of the Himalayas, Shimla is a fun place to wander, enjoy the hillside perspective and take in some easy-going shopping. It’s easy to see why this is such a popular destination for both Indian and foreign visitors.

12. Lose yourself in Shimla's Lower Bazaar

Just down the street from what feels like little England, bustling Indian markets burst with spices, color, and tons of activity. Our suggestion: just walk, poke your head into stalls, take a turn or two on the laneways, and enjoy some sensory overload.

The spread of spice stalls across Shimla’s Lower Bazaar features sacks and tins, and ancient wooden racks, drawers and dividers that ought to have a voice so that they might tell us their stories. Colors are earthy and bright, chili peppers of the deepest red, turmeric of an otherworldly yellow. Scents waft among it all. The whole and the ground; the sweet and the pungent; the blended and the masala’d all help make Indian food so delicious and complex.⠀

Wander, question, show curiosity, and perhaps add something familiar and needed, or unfamiliar and unknown to one’s spice rack back home. For as many times as we’ve been to India, we always discover something new or encounter something unusual. And, we always meet someone interesting along the way.

13. Explore the grounds and gardens of the Viceregal Lodge (Rashtrapati Niwas)

Not far from central Shimla on Observatory Hill is the grand and impressive Viceregal Lodge, the former residence of the British Viceroyal of India from 1888 to India’s independence in 1947. As you take a guided tour of the interior you also hear the story of how the lodge played an important role in negotiating India’s independence. Black and white photos tell the story of the major players of Indian independence and Partition, its split with Pakistan.

The lodge that once served as a symbol of British colonial power is today the Indian Institute of Advanced Study, considered the top academic and research center in the country for the humanities and social sciences. What were once grand dining halls and ballrooms now serve as libraries and areas of research and academic thought. A rather apt twist of history.

After your tour of the lodge’s interior be sure to take some time to explore the surrounding gardens.

14. Enjoy the breakfast of champions — masala dosa and coffee — at the Indian Coffee House in Shimla

The India Coffee House on Mall Road in Shimla is more than just a cafe or restaurant; it's an institution. It was established in 1957 as part of a program to allow coffee workers to set up, run and manage coffee houses, and to generate additional income. Over 50 years later the oldest cafe in Shimla is still going strong.

To our sense, not much has changed — in a good way.

A masala dosa and a strong cup of filtered coffee — the real stuff, not instant — is one of our favorite ways to start the day. Although I'm sure all their food is good, we heard from our guide that they are best known for their southern Indian dishes (e.g., dosa, idli, etc.). Visit to the Indian Coffee House not only for the food. It's the atmosphere of the place, including the professional waiters (see the photo above), that really make for a fun and engaging experience. Not to mention, because its run by coffee workers, the coffee is actually quite good.

On a practical note, the Indian Coffee House seems to be the only cafe open in Shimla before 9AM. If you're an early riser or have an early morning train to catch, this is the place to go.

15. Take the ropeway down from Hanuman statue for views of Shimla

If you really want to get above it all in Shimla take a walk up to the giant Hanuman statue at the top of the hill. It’s not a long walk, but it is steep and you need to beware the pesky and aggressive monkeys that want to take your sunglasses, water bottles, and snacks.

Take note of the sign at the bottom which indicates the average amount of time to walk to the top, according to one’s age and relative fitness. Then compare your results!

On the return, however, we suggest you take a relaxing ride on the ropeway, or gondola. You get a beautiful view of the town below and of the expanse of hills surrounding Shimla. The clearest days yield views of the snow-covered Himalayas.

16. Pair an Indian craft beer with some pani puri

One thing we were not expecting to find in Shimla: a craft beer brewpub. We enjoyed a pale ale and shared fusion-inspired snacks at Brew Estate. Though it doesn’t fall into the category of “traditional Indian,” it does reflect a segment of modern India. It also makes for a delightful and safe way to order several small plates and share some Indian street food favorites. You can also order a full proper dinner here, too.

If you’ve had your fill of high-octane “strong” Indian beer, then enjoy a flavorful citric pale ale, red ale, or hefeweizen wheat ale in Shimla. Then, order several rounds of pani puri for your group to enjoy.

Pani puri is common street food snack made of puffed balls filled with potato and topped with tamarind juice, plain yogurt and coriander sauce. Delicious, but often the various liquids, herbs and ingredients can leave a traveler with Delhi belly.

That’s why the pani puri at Brew Estate was perfect. Everyone in our group tried this unique and fun combination of flavors, but in a safe and perfectly hygienic setting. Everyone loved it, so several orders circulated the table.

17. Take the Toy Train from Shimla to Kalka and Count the Tunnels (Hint: 103)

Built in the late 19th century, this narrow gauge railway winds itself through the hills of Himachal Pradesh, often twisting and turning back on itself in feats of navigation and engineering. At almost 100 km, this 5 hour train ride is one of the most scenic, ambling and pleasant in India. Stops in several stations offer ample opportunities for milk tea and snack breaks along the way.

18. Take a city walking tour in Delhi led by former street kids

Although this experience isn’t included as part of the G Adventures Northern India by Rail tour, it is offered as an optional activity. If you have a free day in Delhi before or after your tour begins, we recommend you seek it out. Just ask your G Adventures tour leader (CEO) to help organize it. If you’re not on a G Adventures tour, then you can inquire here.

This tour is like no other typical city walking tour — in a good way. Here’s why.

Anny, pictured above, guides us through a narrow alley near Delhi railway station. Her personal story is one of having been orphaned at five years old. For the last ten years she has lived in a shelter run by Salaam Balaak Trust, a local organization providing support, education and training to children who once lived their lives day and night on the street.

Besides sharing her knowledge of Delhi, Anny gave us some more background on the street children in India – the various ways many of them end up on the street, their survival tactics, and the ways they spend the money they make and steal. Their dreams, too.

This Planeterra Foundation project together with Salaam Baalak Trust offers youth the opportunity for English language courses and training in guiding and tourism. The goal: to build new confidence and give the children practical skills and experience in preparation for the time they must leave the shelters (at 18 years old) and they begin seeking employment. Social impact travel in action.

19. Savor the charcoal dal makhani at Kitchen with a Cause and support disadvantaged youth

We consider ourselves pretty savvy and knowledgeable when it comes to Indian food, but we'd never had dal makhani served to us stewed with a smoldering piece of charcoal.

Smoke-infused creamy lentils equals amazing.

This social enterprise restaurant provides hospitality and restaurant training to former street kids and disadvantaged youth. Completion of a minimum 6-month training period also helps them find full-time employment in restaurants or hotels afterwards. To eat well and support disadvantaged youth: satisfying.

Address: 15A/63, Ajmal Khan Rd, Block 15A, WEA, Karol Bagh, New Delhi. It's about a 5-10 minute walk from the Karol Bagh metro station.

20. Deck yourself out in Indian clothes and colors at Fabindia

On our first trip to India together over ten years ago I discovered Fabindia, an Indian clothing shop that uses high quality natural cottons and materials and works with rural communities so as to provide local opportunities for employment. The colors, designs, and cuts for both traditional Indian clothing (e.g., kurtas, tunics, dupattas, saris) — as well as more western-style items — are beautiful, unusual and high quality.

In other words, it’s the perfect place to get yourself outfitted with some traditional Indian clothes for your travels in India. This not only helps you fit in and shows respectful dress, but the clothes are loose and comfortable for the local climate. For women I recommend picking up a couple of tunics and kurtas that you can wear either with jeans, light walking trousers or as a set with a pair of their colorful matching trousers. All the choices, sizes and colors are a bit overwhelming at first, so don’t be afraid to ask for help from the local staff. Or from your husband.

There are several Fabindia locations in Delhi. I had especially good luck at Connaught Place.

The post Northern India Beyond the Golden Triangle: A Travel Guide appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Yes, there's a fair heap of that. But, there are also ways to avoid it and there is much to see and experience in Prague without crowds. That's what this insider's guide is all about with tourist traps to avoid, best things to do, favorite Czech beers and pubs, neighborhoods to stay in, and where to eat in Prague.

Many moons ago, during our first month living in Prague, I remember exiting Charles University after a Czech language class and looking up at a night-lit Prague Castle and thinking, “My God, do I actually live here?“

It didn't seem real.

Even after five years of living in Prague, I could still turn a corner, catch the right light and get that feeling. Prague is a Bucket List and “Top 10 Romantic Cities” favorite — for good reason. But frankly, there's also a lot of touristy crap that can leave a casual visitor tourist-worn.

During my last visit to Prague, I played tourist for a day and forced myself to walk through through its main tourist artery — from the Prague Castle, over the Charles Bridge, down Karlova Street, through Old Town, up to the top of Wenceslas Square. Maybe it had improved since we lived there?

Nope.

But all is not lost. Here are some ideas on how to minimize the tourist schlock, what to do to replace it with, local neighborhoods to explore, Czech beers to try and where to eat in Prague at the end of the day.

Plus, we share recommendations on which Prague neighborhoods to stay in and some tours and boat rides that might help you explore the city even more. This all makes for a more enjoyable visit to Prague that also allows you to avoid some of the overtourism challenges that the city has faced and travel more sustainably by supporting local businesses.

Note: This post was originally published in May 2011 and was updated on June 4, 2019.

What to Avoid in Prague: Tourist Schlock

1. Karlova Street

In tourist hell, right next door to San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf and Bangkok's Khao San Road is Prague's souvenir-engorged Karlova Street. If you only retain one piece of information from this post, it should be this: avoid this street like the plague.

Don't ask why, don't be tempted. Just avoid it. Your visit will be all the better for it.

Alternative: “But how am I going to get from Charles Bridge to Old Town Square?” you might ask. Easy.

When you come off the Charles Bridge (on the opposite side of the river from Prague Castle), cut through the Klementinum (look for the doorway across the street to the left of Karlova street) and enjoy a peaceful stroll through a 14th century courtyard.

2. Concerts — or anything for that matter – sold by people in period costumes

If classical music's greatest hits served up in machine-gun style is your thing, by all means head right for the guys in period outfits. If, however, you have a taste for a full symphony and the real, high-quality, accessible classical music Prague is known for, go elsewhere.

Alternative: See #2 below for where to find high quality shows and buy concert tickets.

3. Wenceslas Square at Night

Where protesters once stood up to Soviet tanks during Prague Spring in 1968, hawkers now stand up for your opportunity to patronize their strip clubs. After dark, Wenceslas Square becomes a central place for strip club touts, prostitutes, their pimps and all manner of the shady and unpleasant. Although it's not unsafe per se, it's best avoided.

Alternative: After dark, walk any of the streets parallel to Wenceslas Square or take the metro to avoid the area altogether.

4. Astronomical Clock Show on the Hour

I know I'm going to get crap for this one. Don't get me wrong, the medieval astronomical clock on the side of Old Town City Hall is beautiful and worth a look.

But really, don’t worry about fighting with the tourist hordes that gather on the hour to see the “show.” The hourly spectacle features some figures moving around, a rooster call (my personal favorite) and a dancing skeleton (Dan's personal favorite). However, it’s really not worth the elbowing and unpleasant crowds you have to deal with to watch it.

Alternative: Have the clock to yourself to admire at any time outside the top-of-the-hour. If you find yourself tiring of the crowds on Old Town Square, pop up to the rooftop terrace at U Prince hotel, order a cocktail, and enjoy the view from above. It's particularly nice at sunset.

5. Prague's Scams and Overcharging at Tourist Restaurants

Unfortunately, some touristy restaurants and taxis still hold a narrowly opportunistic view of tourism and tourists (i.e., they scam anyone who looks like fresh meat).

What to do: Don't let these places get away with it: be vigilant, mind your bill, count your change, and question or complain if you are being cheated. If you don't, you'll be doing yourself — and all other tourists who follow in your footsteps — a disservice.

If your restaurant bill arrives with extra service charges or “taxes” that are not specifically called out on the menu, refuse to pay them.

If you need a taxi, use a local taxi app or have the hotel or restaurant call a trusted taxi company in advance. I would never pick up a taxi outside the front door of the train station or hotel. If you pick up a taxi on the street, use a company like AAA or ProfiTaxi. Finally, if you've been grossly overcharged, pay what you believe is fair and walk away. We've done it.

Non-Touristy Things to Do in Prague: The Good Stuff

With the unpleasant stuff out of the way, let's focus on what to do and visit besides what we call the “Prague Tourist Triad” (Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, Old Town Square). The aim: to give you a feel for a living city whose history goes long beyond just a few pretty buildings. And, to help you avoid some of the tourist crowds in Prague.

You might be thinking as you read, “But that's outside the city center.”

In some cases, our recommendations are outside of the Old Town City center, but they are not so far. Within a few minutes, you are only a tram, metro or a few footsteps away.

1) Vyšehrad: An Alternative Castle

Just down the Vlatava River from Prague Castle is the lesser-known 10th century castle of Vyšehrad. In addition to offering great views of the Vltava River and the city, Vyšehrad features grassy grounds stocked full of locals having picnics with family and friends.

The cemetery at Vyšehrad is also home to many of Czech greats of art and music, including Alphonse Mucha and Antonín Dvořák. The Peter and Paul church is also worth a look – neo-gothic on the outside, but Mucha-inspired art nouveau murals on the inside.

2. Classical Music Concerts and Operas

Prague's music scene is one of the things that kept us there so long. Even if you're not a huge classical music aficionado, it's still worth trying to see a concert just to experience the venue.

Go directly to ticket offices or a venue's box office for real performances. Basically, if the concert is associated with a national ensemble, you’re more likely to see a high quality concert at a lower price.

If your visit coincides with Prague Spring, try to book tickets in advance or, for last minute tickets, visit the Rudolfinum box office. Prague Spring often features top performers, conductors and orchestras from around the world.

I cannot begin to count the $1000s of dollars we would have spent on all the performances we took in had we seen the performers on their home turf. Prices continue to go up, but are still reasonable compared with Western Europe and the United States.

Suggested concert venues: Rudolfinum (our favorite venue and home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra), National Theatre, State Opera. These concert halls not only have wonderful acoustics, but they also are just beautiful concert halls.

In addition, Prague's art and museum scene is constantly changing and evolving. Many of the galleries and events are located in interesting neighborhoods and buildings. You can check out the list of upcoming events, festivals and exhibitions here.

To provide you with more flexibility and discounts if you want to visit several museums at once, consider getting the Prague City Card (2-4 days). It also includes a free river boat cruise, which is a nice way to get an overview of the city on both sides of the Vlatava River.

3. Exploring Prague's Neighborhoods

Although Prague’s Old Town (Staré Město) and Lesser Town (Malá Strana) often steal the Prague tourist show (and for good reason) with their medieval architecture, it's worth it to spend time poking around some of the surrounding neighborhoods. The Art Nouveau architectural stock in Prague's residential neighborhoods is impressive.

Walk, look up and soak it up. Architectural period melange, details, mosaics, statues, paintings, are all standard fare. Not to mention, this is the way you'll really begin to understand what modern-day living in Prague is all about.

Suggested neighborhoods to explore and to stay in: Vinohrady, Vršovice (our old neighborhood), Žižkov, and Holesovice.

4. Prague Beer gardens

When the weather is warm (or at least un-cold and bearable), Prague’s beer gardens are the place to while away an afternoon, evening, or possibly even both. Beer gardens are casual affairs with long, simple picnic tables, a food stand or two serving greasy sausages, and — most importantly — an endless supply of freshly pulled Czech beer.

Relax with locals of all ages, from the stodgy business guy in a suit to grandpa with his dog to the young punk kids.

Recommended Prague beer gardens:

Letna Park Beer Garden(Prague 7) with views of the city and Vltava River or Riegrovy Sady (Prague 2) for a more grungy, local flavor.

5. Glass of Wine at Grebovka Vineyard

There's actually a small vineyard within Prague’s city limits. And, there just happens to be a little café (called Altan) with a great gazebo sitting right above it.

These are the makings of a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine and a cheese plate. For quality, we actually suggest trying the Austrian wine over the local Grebovka wine.

Address: Grebovka park is in Prague 10. Closest tram stop is Krymska on 22, 16, or 4 tram lines. Finding your way here through the windy residential streets is part of the fun; this is not a touristy area at all. Go past the Grobovka Pavillion to get to Altan Cafe.

Recommended Prague Tours and Activities

Our partner, Get Your Guide, offers many Prague tours and attractions. They have the lowest prices, guaranteed, for these tours with no booking fees or hidden charges. In addition, they work with their partners to ensure Covid-19 safety features and you can usually cancel up to 24 hours before in case your schedule changes.

For inspiration, consider some of the following Prague city tours to experience the city from different angles and to go a little deeper:

• Prague Sightseeing Dinner Cruise on Open-Top Glass Boat (3 hours): As mentioned before, Prague is pretty stunning at night. Everything is lit up, and it is especially magical from the perspective of the water. This evening cruise will take you along the Vltava River past many of the city's historical sites like the Prague Castle, Charles Bridge and Old Town. And, you get to enjoy dinner and a drink as you take in the city by night.
• Prague Walking Tour (3 hours): One of the best ways to learn about a city is through a walking tour, and this one provides a great overview and takes you through what we described as the Prague Triad above: Old Town Square, Charles Bridge and Prague Castle.
• Prague Walking, Bus and Boat Tour (4 hours): If a long walking tour sounds a bit daunting and you you want to mix things up a bit, consider this walking, bus and boat tour of Prague. It will take you through many of the Prague Triad sites, but you'll have a chance to also view some of them, like the Charles Bridge and Castle, from the water on a 1-hour boat trip. This tour also includes a guided walk through Josefov, the Jewish Quarter.
• Prague Historical River Cruise (45-Minutes): If you want a quick (and very affordable) view of Prague's historical sites from the river, this boat tour is a good option. And, it includes a drink so you can take in the views with a cold Czech beer or local wine in hand.

You can see all their Prague tours here and read customer reviews to select the type of tour that's best fits your interests, budget and schedule.

Where to Stay in Prague

There is certainly no shortage of accommodation options in Prague, whether a hotel or your own apartment rental. So it can sometimes be a bit overwhelming to choose where to stay based on your interests and budget.

Although booking accommodation in Prague's Old Towns — Staroměstská or Malá Strana — will put you in the middle of the city's main sites, we actually prefer staying in one of the nearby neighborhoods. They provide a more local feel with more non-touristy pubs, cafes, restaurants and shops.

Here are a few recommended accommodation options in some of our favorite Prague neighborhoods. Click on the neighborhood name to see a selection of all accommodation in that area. Plus, we've added both hotel and apartment options, depending upon your preference.

• Vinohrady Hotels (Prague 2): A beautiful neighborhood filled with colorful 19th and turn of the 20th century architecture. Easy to spend hours wandering its back streets, lots of local cafes and restaurants.
  • Anna Hotel: This small, reasonably priced hotel, is located on a quiet neighborhood street near Namesti Miru. It's an easy 15-minute walk to the Old Town Square or enjoy getting lost in the colorful Vinohrady streets.
  • Apartment on Slavikova Street: A good option on a quiet Vinohrady Street if you prefer to have your own apartment with your own kitchen and space to spread out.
• VršoviceHotels (Prague 10): We're biased as this was our old neighborhood that we loved. Not quite as polished as Vinohrady up the hill, but Vršovice has a fun local feel to it with lots of turn-of-the-century architecture and streets to wander.
  • Czech Inn: This design hostel meets B&B is in a beautiful corner 19th century building. It is located near where we used to live in Prague, just down the hill from more touristy parts of Vinohrady and near the Grebovka vineyards mentioned above. There are also double and twin rooms available, in addition to dorms for the more budget-minded.
• Holešovice Hotels (Prague 7): Another neighborhood with beautiful turn-of-the-century architecture and residential streets with some big parks providing lots of green space and quiet.
  • Art Hotel Prague: Located in a quiet area not far from Letna and Stromovka parks, but Prague's historical center is about a 20 minute walk (and even shorter by tram).
  • Residence Nad Vltavou: If you're looking to stay in your own apartment, this option is in a modern building not far from the river in residential Holešovice.
• Žižkov Hotels (Prague 3): Traditionally a working class neighborhood, Žižkov today is known for its edgy, artistic and alternative side. It has some great street art, hilly streets, lots of local bars and art venues.
  • Carlton Hotel: Located in a good location not far from the Žižkov TV Tower with artist David Černý’s “Tower Babies” and close to lots of residential streets for walking and getting lost. Not far from the main train station and just a few tram stops to the center of town.
  • Žižkov Studio Apartment: A good newly renovated studio apartment option in the residential streets of Žižkov with a small kitchen, living room and loft sleeping area.
• Dejvice Hotels (Prague 6): This neighborhood is located above the castle and near several big parks. It's well connected for the airport.
  • Hotel Meda of Muesum Kampa: Located in a residential area near the main Dejvice circle. We had a friend who lived in this area and she really enjoyed it for its quiet, but also close proximity to the historical center and public transport.
  • City Castle Aparthotel: If you want your own apartment, this is a good location not far from the castle and very close to the metro and public transport. Lots of green space around as well, so good for active walkers.
• Karlín Hotels (Prague 8): In the last years Karlín has become rather hip and we know a few people who have moved to this neighborhood. It's a short walk to the historical center and close to the bus station and other transport hubs.
  • Botanique Hotel: A modern hotel with big rooms located in the Florenc area of Karlín, walking distance from old town and close to public transport.
  • Seven Wishes Boutique Residence: If you want your own apartment with modern fixings this is a good option on a quiet residential street about a 10-minute walk away from the old town.

Where to Eat in Prague: Czech Food and Recommended Pubs

There is definitely no shortage of hospodas (pubs) serving Czech fare throughout the city with varying levels of quality and grease content.

If you want a Czech restaurant or pub with a little better meat quality and less grease, give one of the following places a try. In addition to good Czech food, they usually serve tank beer (often, unpasteurized), making the Czech beer drinking experience all the more enjoyable.

Useful websites for reviews of new Prague restaurants: Czech Please, Spotted by Locals Prague, Taste of Prague's food blog.

Lokál

One of the newer additions to the Ambiante Restaurant empire. This place serves up quality and hearty Czech food at reasonable prices. Be sure to check out their constantly changing daily menu. In addition, they have tank beer, meaning that it will be harder to get fresher beer in town. So good. Address: Dlouhá 33, Prague 1.

Bredovsky Dvur

Just a block away from popular Wenceslas Square, but with a different feel from the high-traffic tourist areas. Try to go during lunch as there are inexpensive lunch meonus and you’ll be enjoying your meal with locals on their lunch break from nearby office buildings. Address: Politických vězňů 13 (parallel street to Wenceslas Square), Prague 1

Na Verandach

This restaurant is right at the Staropramen brewery, so you know the beer is fresh. Hearty food, too. Address: Nadrazni 84, Prague 5 (Smichov)

Olympia

Nice Czech pub serving both Czech and continental specialties. The changing daily lunch menu (11:00-3:00) offers hearty traditional Czech fare at reasonably prices. Address: Vítězná 7, Praha 1 (Ujezd)

Favorite Czech Beers and Prague Bars

If you are a beer drinker then you will be in heaven in Prague. Czech beer is that good. Even the big national brands like Pilsner Urquell, Budějovický Budvar and Gambrinus are really good, especially when you can find them pulled fresh from a tank. However, there are also lots of smaller label beers that are worth seeking out like Bernard, Svijany, and Krušovice.

And, every region of the Czech Republic seems to have its own small breweries and specialties. These micro-brews are becoming easier to find in Prague. Not to mention, the craft beer scene has exploded in the last few years so it's worth experimenting.

Below are some of our favorite Prague bars with a wide variety of Czech beers and craft brews on tap. Some of the places below also serve snacks and food, but beer is the main show.

To learn more about Czech beer, book a Prague beer tour that includes visits to local puts, beer tasting, information about local beer culture and a hearty Czech dinner.

Prague Beer Museum

It's not really not a museum, but it does serve close to 30 different beers on tap from small to medium breweries across Czech Republic. This is the place to learn about Czech beer the old fashion way — by drinking it. The owner is meticulous about buying only small kegs, keeping the keg lines clean and changing the beer menu every three months. Just be careful and pace yourself — mixing heavy beers can have a devastating effect the next day.

Address: The original Prague Beer Museum on Dlouha street is now closed. But, the Prague Beer Museum pub has opened up at Náměstí Míru (Americká 341/43, Prague 2) that is bigger and has a full menu. In addition, there's a second location at Smetanovo Nabrezi 22 in Prague 1 (Staré Město). So you can have your fill of hearty Czech food to go with all those great beers.

Pivovarsky Klub

In addition to a good selection of beers on tap, this place offers a minimum of 240 beers (Czech and international) in bottles on the menu. Ask the waiter for advice if you get paralyzed on what to order. This place also has good and reasonably priced Czech food, too. Address: Krizikova 17, Praha 8 – Karlin

Kavárna Mlýnská

This isn't so much a pub as it is a mill that has been turned into a café near Kampa Park. It's quite close to the touristy areas, but is a local place that serves wonderful unfiltered Bernard beer. Address: Všehrdova 449, Prague 1

Zly Casy

One of the recent additions to the Czech craft brewpub scene with an impressive list of craft beers on tap. A bit outside the center in Prague 4, but worth the effort. Address: Čestmírova 5, Prague 4

Practical Prague Travel Tips

1. What to Take With You

If you forget anything at home, you can probably find a replacement for it in Prague. Shopping possibilities are endless. For those coming from North America, be sure that your electronics can take 110-220 volts so that you don't blow out your gear.

Much of Prague is covered in cobblestones and stone sidewalks, so beware of high or thin heels that can get easily stuck between the stones. You'll be doing lots of walking so invest in comfortable shoes.

2. How to Get Around Prague

Public transportation in Prague is truly wonderful. If you're going to be in Prague for several days consider buying the 3-day pass for unlimited travel for 310 CZK. Otherwise, you can purchase individual tickets for either 32 CZK (90 min) or 24 CZK (30 min). Be sure to validate your ticket before starting your journey. You can plan your journey by public transport here.

If you do need a taxi, be wary of picking one up off the street, especially near train stations or other highly touristy areas. Use a taxi app or have the hotel or restaurant call one in advance for you. We recommend AAA Taxi or ProfiTaxi.

Consider booking a Prague airport shuttle so that you have someone waiting for you when you arrive and don't need to deal with any taxi games.

3. Money and Tipping

ATM machines are everywhere in Prague and almost all of them take international bank cards. We recommend using these to take out local money instead of using currency exchange places.

If you must exchange money, avoid using the currency exchange places along Wenceslas Square or Old Town as they are known to charge high commission fees or exchange rates. Some have multiple exchange rates depending upon how much you want to exchange. If you do need to use one, ask in advance how much in Czech crowns you would receive for your dollars or Euros. Don't be afraid to walk away if the rates are atrocious.

Credit cards are accepted in most restaurants and shops. Euros are also often accepted in many stores these days as well.

Tipping is usually around 10%, rounded up to the next whole figure. When in touristy restaurants be sure to check your bill for strange service charges and count your change carefully.

4. Safety and Security

For the most part Prague is a safe city, but like everywhere in the world it's important to stay aware of your surroundings and your stuff, especially your passport and wallet.

Be careful when walking around at night in dark streets and areas around Wenceslas Square. When in bars, cafes or restaurants keep an eye on your bags and stuff, especially in more touristy or popular areas. Stay alert when on public transport in touristy areas as groups of pickpockets have been known to work together on trams or metro cars.

Our Prague Recommendations in Podcast Form

If you're still curious about what else we recommend to see, do and eat in Prague, listen to this podcast interview on Prague we did with Chris Christensen of Amateur Traveler.

The post Insider’s Prague: 5 Tourist Traps to Avoid and Things to Do Instead appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Early in our around-the-world journey, we spent fifteen months traveling through Latin America, but we never made it to Brazil. How did we miss the largest country on the continent, the fifth largest in the world?

Short answer: we ran out of time. Real answer: we psyched ourselves out thinking we must experience Brazil all at once. Given Brazil’s size and diversity, we understood it could take months or even years to travel and fully explore. So we put off a visit, waiting for that perfect timing, our minds darting back often to how we might approach it.

Recently, we decided: Brazil, now’s the time. We embraced the “you don’t need to do it all at once, but choose wisely” approach.

Take a ride on Brazil's southern coastal highways and you'll find roads and towns engulfed in lush, flourishing green, and jungle that opens to dazzling seas and beaches. Marvel at vast swathes of savannah, forest and rivers throughout its inland tropical wetlands. No matter the level of development and modernization across the country — and there’s plenty across its cities, towns and infrastructure — nature appears poised to reclaim.

Against the backdrop of that nature exists a cultural diversity and expression shaped from Portuguese colonial rule, the African slave trade, and waves of immigration and internal migration. This forms the foundation on which we began to understand the country – not entirely, yet deeply — in a short period of time.

If, similar to us, you've wondered how to approach this vast and diverse country with a limited amount of time, this guide is for you. The goal: to inspire ideas of things to do in Brazil, places to visit, and how to engage so as to make the most of your own travels in Brazil.

Brazil in two weeks, from Rio de Janeiro to the Pantanal: An Experiential Guide

For those of you who love maps — as we do — here is a visual of the first two weeks of our route through Brazil on the Wonders of Brazil tour with G Adventures.

Rio de Janeiro, 1-4 days

1. Take the Corcovado Railway and enjoy Rio from above, at Christ the Redeemer

What really struck me most about Rio de Janeiro when we first arrived were its natural features – dramatic mountains, urban rainforests, and long stretches of white sand beaches. Human life, including downtown skyscrapers and densely populated neighborhoods are tucked between Mother Nature’s crevices and cliffs.

We took the Corcovado Railway through the thick rainforest of Tijuca National Park, a place remarkable for both its lushness and size. Tijuca, an urban rainforest, was the result of a massive reforestation project from the mid-19th century when the city realized that the deforestation due to coffee plantations and coal mining had dried up some of the city's main water sources. A reminder not to mess with Mother Nature and her delicate balance.

Christ the Redeemer, the 30-meter high Art Deco statue atop Corcovado mountain, overlooks it all, embracing the city.

The view from the top is remarkable. I found myself wondering how all this may have appeared to colonialists upon their first arrival in the 16th century. Something must have struck them, too. Rio de Janeiro was the country’s capital for almost 200 years; its cultural significance and atmosphere still hold sway.

2. Visit the Planeterra Favela Experience in Vidigal and challenge your perception

You may wonder: “Can a ‘favela tour’ ever be ethical and respectful?” It's important to ask that and other difficult questions when it comes to tours in favelas or other marginalized communities. To find our own thoughts on the matter, we interacted with a Favela tour in Rio and met community members and leaders.

When tourism and tours are developed from and by members of the community, respectful engagement is possible. A community-focused approach enables immersive experiences shaped by local culture, stories, people, and life — just as it did with the one we experienced with Planeterra Foundation and its local partners Favela Experience and Favela Inc.

Local community leaders and organizations create and deliver the favela tour. The experience zeroes in on respect, sharing and cultural exchange. Positive impact is amplified economically and socially since the money stays local and benefit is accrued throughout the community.

Though no one experience will by itself dissolve the otherness of a favela, this one helps. It does so by swapping the story of poverty and danger with the story of human beings making their way — creating, working, living — for themselves and their families.

3. Immerse yourself in Rio’s urban art

Street art and urban art installation fanatics will find no shortage of inspiration in Rio de Janeiro (and elsewhere in Brazil). Across Rio's neighborhoods — from back alleys in the favelas to formal street art public galleries — you'll spot colorful street murals carrying socio-economic, cultural and political messages.

Perhaps no installation better illustrates how public art can impact neighborhoods and urban development than the colorful Selarón Steps at the edge of Rio's Lapa and Santa Teresa neighborhoods. A 20+ year private art project of now deceased Chilean artist Jorge Selarón has transformed a once marginal neighborhood of Rio into one of the city’s most visited sights.

Featuring tiles from over sixty countries, the Selarón Steps are living art history, a community project maintained by local artists in honor of the original project’s inclusive vision.

Ilha Grande, 2 Days

4. Hike Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak), the highest point of Ilha Grande

Ilha Grande, just a few hours’ drive and ferry ride from Rio de Janeiro, was a former leper colony and then high security prison (until 1994). Nowadays, the island is open to the public. It's also a car-free natural reserve whose development is restricted, meaning that you won't find any big resorts or development. And that's a good thing.

One of the best ways to appreciate the span of the island’s beauty and also that of Brazil’s southern coast is to climb Pico de Papagaio (Parrot Peak), Ilha Grande’s highest peak. Many people choose to do this as a summit-at-sunrise hike, setting off at 2:30 AM to reach the peak in time for sunrise over the ocean. (Note: Several people in our group did the sunrise hike with Sunrise Pioneers and had a great experience.)

Some of us, however, enjoy an occasional good night's sleep on the road (yes, guilty!!) and question the trade-off between that sleep and a nighttime jungle hike with headlamps. We opted to set off for our hike just after 8AM from Abraão (Ilha Grande’s town center) and reached the peak some 2.5-3 hours later after four miles uphill through thick, steamy jungle. We poked around, took in gorgeous views and watched vultures and frigate birds circle somewhat ominously overhead.

We may have missed the colors from sunrise and the nighttime jungle experience, but the mid-morning views were still spectacular. No regrets.

Note: If you do choose to hike Pico do Papagaio during the day, get an early start and carry lots of water. The heat and humidity intensify noticeably as the day progresses. This impacts comfort and the summit view due to increasing haze.

5. Relax from your hike on a tranquil (and nearly empty) beach on Ilha Grande

Our original post-hike plan was to take a boat taxi to Praia de Lopes Mendes on the opposite side of Ilha Grande. However, by the time we inquired about transport possibilities in the early afternoon it was already too late because boats were no longer headed in that direction.

We literally missed the boat. We were discouraged and disappointed.

However, we quickly discovered the jungle trails eastward from the main port area of Abraão. They allowed us to easily hop from one laid back beach to another. We sampled a few beaches along the way and settled on Praia Comprida.

Completely surrounded by jungle it felt like our own private, tropical retreat. Besides an enterprising local caipirinha salesman (who churned out cocktails from his own cooler and perhaps sampled too much of his own product), only a sprinkling of other beachgoers were about.

The water was the perfect temperature for a long swim, float or lounge. We relaxed our muscles, watched the caipirinha guy drink all the cocktails he failed to sell, and knew we’d found the place we hadn’t really been looking for after all.

6. Devour a local moqueca on the beach

A Brazilian moqueca is a hearty stew usually made with a combination of coconut milk, palm oil, relatively mild seasoning and fish, seafood or a blend of the two. On Ilha Grande, the local moqueca specialty was made with roasted bananas (moqueca de piexe con banana-da-terra). Although that combination may sound odd — particularly to the banana-averse like me – the contrast of rich savory and sweet was delicious.

A note about Brazilian food portions and serving sizes: In a word: HUGE. Many restaurants will list dishes as serving two people (or sometimes three to four people). Prices are accordingly — and sometimes shockingly — high. As a rule of thumb: take the number of people the menu indicates the dish will serve, then double that (i.e., a dish for two will usually feed four people. Strategize and order accordingly. We found single portions (that is, meant to feed one person) usually featured more than enough food to feed the two of us.

Paraty, 2 days

7. Wander the preserved Portuguese colonial cobblestoned streets of Paraty

Frozen in time, Paraty is. As one of Brazil’s oldest port towns dating back to the late 16th century, Paraty has seen the rise and fall of the gold, slave and coffee trades over its time. Its own fate and prosperity has proceeded accordingly. Thanks to a near abandonment of the city in the early 20th century, its preservation offers a living gallery of 17th to 19th century Portuguese colonial architecture. Streets run in large cobblestones and are punctuated with colorful doors, windows, and decorations. You’ll see how and why Paraty remains a traveler favorite.

The old town is laid out in a grid, making for easy wandering. If a particular street seems too busy for you, just head one or two streets away and you’ll likely have it all to yourself. Although Paraty’s streets are laid back and sleepy during the day, they come alive at night as street musicians and artists take up their acts on every corner.

8. Experience Samba da Benção, the samba night free-for-all on Paraty's main square

Samba is a Brazilian type of music and dance whose West African roots run deep. Heavy in drums and rhythm, samba makes it hard to stand still as the beat makes its way inside you. If you’re timing is good, catch Samba da Benção, the Monday-night Paraty samba dance party on Praça da Matriz, the Paraty main square. It’s free, but donations are kind…and keep the music and party going.

It starts from 8PM. Musicians come out in force, and locals and visitors get their dance on well into the night. The moves are serious, but the attitude not so much – all seem to come as they are.

If you don’t experience samba in Paraty, be sure to ask around along your journey. You'll find samba somewhere – and it will be an important stitch in your understanding of the tapestry and psyche of Brazil.

9. Soak up a lazy beach day at Trindade Beach

Trindade, an easy public bus ride from Paraty, is a favorite beach spot for locals and travelers alike. Walk the three or four beaches connected by jungle trails and determine which one fits you best in terms of atmosphere, crowds, waves and shade. From the town, we walked Praia do Meio all the way to Piscina Natural da Caixa d'Aco, which we found crowded and murky.

.

Our favorite beach: Praia do Cachadaço. Why? It was huge, relatively empty, surrounded by lush jungle and home to some big trees perfect for shade. In other words, the ideal location from which to ponder the world during a day at the beach.

You can also do as we did by taking ten steps from your towel and grabbing a seat at the low key beachside Restaurante Caiçara. Then, finish and cool the day off with a bowl of açaí from the café across the street from the bus stop before you return to Paraty.

Iguazu Falls (Brazilian and Argentine sides), 2 days

10. Take in the vastness of Iguazu Falls from the Brazil side

When it comes to waterfalls we often find ourselves skeptical. “Big, beautiful waterfalls!” can often translate to the reality of a far away trickle.

Not so, Iguazu Falls (Foz do Iguaçu). Remarkable, vast, powerful, wide. Humbling. Evidence of Mother Nature’s grip of beauty and power. And a restorer of the promise of a waterfall.

From the Brazil side of the falls (they are shared with Argentina), you can truly appreciate the vastness of Iguazu — or Iguaçu in Brazil, a word derived from a Guarani indigenous root meaning “big water” — the largest network of waterfalls in the world. So large are they that a 90-120 minute walk is flush with panoramic views.

BONUS: Enjoy watching the coati, an animal which looks like an anteater cross-bred with a raccoon. You’ll see coatis all along the trail, especially when food is nearby. Do not feed them, however, as they are already too accustomed to human food and contact.

11. Get up close with Iguazu Falls from the Argentine side

While the Brazilian side of Igauzu Falls provides perspective on their vastness, the Argentine side allows you to get up close to admire — and feel — the sheer power and size of these falls. The network of walking paths throughout the park are really well done and interpreted, taking you through forest above and under slightly smaller falls. Several of the overlooks bring you very easily right next to some of the largest falls. Spend some time; you'll feel the power of rushing water right next to you as you cool off in its mist.

Cap your visit to Iguazu Falls by going into and under them aboard a speedboat. There’s no better way to feel the full force of the falls. The cool water feels excellent, and a full dose negative ions and thrill puts everyone on a natural high. Our boat went three or four times into the falls, with our group cheering for more each time we emerged. We were soaked through by the end and had perma-grins on our faces.

Although we took a similar boat ride nine years ago when we first visited Iguazu Falls in Argentina, this ride was worth the revisit. We would do it again. It’s that much fun.

Bonito, 1-2 days

12. Drift-snorkel through the clear waters of the Rio da Prata

Snorkeling a river?

When our G Adventures CEO (tour leader) told us the river would be crystal clear and full of fish, we had our doubts. Yet, snorkeling in the Rio da Prata at Recanto Ecologico near Bonito exceeded all expectations. Spectacular.

The experience of a drift snorkel down a river, whereby you swim down the river with the satisfying assist of the current, is something remarkable. No video can do it justice, but we share our brief one as a taste.

Book this snorkeling experience at Rio da Prata here.

The Pantanal, 2 days

13. Go wildlife tracking and bird spotting on a late afternoon boat ride in the Pantanal

Although not as famous as Brazil’s Amazon further north, the Pantanal — the largest inland wetlands in the world, stretching from western Brazil into eastern Bolivia and Paraguay — is also one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots. Home to more than 650 known species of birds and to the greatest concentration of wildlife in South America, this vast area of seasonally flooded savannah, tropical forests, grasslands and rivers is bustling with life, most of it imperceptible to humans.

For us, the most enjoyable method to get amongst it in the Pantanal: a late afternoon boat ride with a local guide. Just as the game of “who can spot the most birds?” began, we soon lost count. We encountered so many species – of kingfishers, herons, cranes, cormorants, storks, and toucans – and in such quantity, that is was imperative not to count and click, but rather to enjoy.

Pedro, a self-taught birding and wildlife expert who’d lived his entire life in the Pantanal, was our guide. His ability to spot and identify birds near and far in the distance was stunning. As he explained, any time he’d see something unfamiliar to him during an outing, he’d do his research — until he was familiar with just about every species in the Pantanal. His passion and admiration for birds and wildlife – still after all this time – is genuine and contagious. Despite his having encountered these species thousands of times, each encounter unfolds as if it were his first.

The experience of the boat itself, floating atop and within nature, delivered a peace of stillness and reflection.

14. Go piranha fishing…and feed the caimans!

In full disclosure, I’m not much into fishing and really didn’t think this was going to be particularly enjoyable or interesting. However, Pedro had a way of making it so.

Using simple bamboo fishing rods with chunks of raw meat as bait, we threw our lines into the murky river and waited. I expected that we’d leave without catching anything, as is often the case with fishing. Within minutes, however, piranhas were popping up on the lines everywhere. Piranhas are smaller than I'd expected, but their teeth look like they could do some serious damage.

Not wanting to take our catch back with us, we threw the piranhas back. This turned into dinner time for the caimans circling about.

15. Hang out with a family of capybaras and spot an elusive tapir

Encountering capybaras in the wild was a goal of ours in Brazil. We’d been mildly obsessed with these ROUS (rodents of unusual size) since we met Mimi the capybara in Paraguay years ago.

This time, we wished to see them in their natural habitat.

And jackpot!

During our boat ride, we came across an extended capybara family complete with mother, babies, teenagers and aunts. In nature, capybaras look serious, like all business. I suppose we might all be so if we and our offspring happened to be the meal of choice among a range of predators, including caimans, jaguars and eagles.

More than satisfied with the capybaras, our boat had the good fortune to also spot an elusive tapir emerging from the water. Frightened, he scampered onshore and tried to hurry away. Due to his size and clumsy fear, it took him three tries to finally scale a nearby hill of lightly packed sand.

This time, Pedro’s excitement went off the charts. Tapirs are nocturnal, so daytime encounters are quite rare.

Looking at the shape of the tapir, it seems that Mother Nature carries a sense of humor.

If all this is not enough, you’re also likely to encounter howler monkeys, capuchins, and pecarries (pig-like non-pigs) just as we did. Your birding experience will be rounded out by hawks, a spotted owl, macaws (scarlet, hyacinth and even hybrids), in addition to all the other birds we mention above.

16. Chill out at a pousada in the Pantanal

During the Brazilian summer, the Pantanal can become incredibly hot during the day. This means activities typically take place either in the early morning or late afternoon, providing ample time to slow down. What to do with the rest of that time? Enjoy it.

Sleeping or reading in a hammock, listening to the call of the macaws in the trees above, or just doing nothing but taking in the sights, smells of your surroundings quickly turns to calming bliss. (Note: doing nothing is important and under-appreciated.).

Down time will allow you to better process the remarkable experience that is the Pantanal. And it may also deliver some moments which lend clarity to the life you'll return to after your holiday.

Our days were punctuated with an early morning walk through the forest, horseback riding, a boat ride, and an evening a nighttime walk. Everything is taken at a slow, relaxed pace. This is not only good for us as humans. The animals seem to like it, too, and are less likely to be frightened away.

If you really wish to bring it down a notch – or perhaps take it up a notch – avail yourself of the strongest caipirinha in Brazil served up in a tumbler at the Santa Clara Pousada.

One is enough to lend further clarity…or haze. Trust us.

17. Get your Japanese food and sushi fix

“Japanese food in Brazil?” you might be asking. Yes, it’s a thing. Brazil features the largest population of people of Japanese origin outside of Japan, explaining the Japanese influence on the cuisine. The history of this features a fascinating twist you’d be unlikely to guess.

After you’ve enjoyed your fill of traditional Brazilian food — moquecas, steak, salgados (fried, stuffed snacks) – take a dive into Japanese-Brazilian food. You’ll find plenty of the sushi restaurant standards (e.g., sashimi, nigiri, rolls), and a few Brazilian twists where “hot” rolls and combinations are flash fried or seared.

Sushi is relatively and surprisingly inexpensive in Brazil, particularly given the quality.

18. Get your city beach on at Copacabana and Ipanema Beaches in Rio

The name “Copacabana” conjures images of tropical, exotic, luxury, scene-y. Strutting like supermodels. The Copacabana Beach we found was more inclusive and approachable, featuring ordinary people of all ages enjoying themselves on this 2.5-mile long stretch of public city beach. Same goes for Ipanema Beach right next door.

If you visit the beach, you'll have everything you need as vendors make the rounds selling everything from caipirinhas to grilled cheese logs. Frequent visits to the beach seem the ordinary rhythm of life for many in Rio. In fact, Rio's beaches take on a second surge of traffic at the end of the work day as locals drop by the beach for a cocktail, a dip in the ocean and to watch the sun go down.

Not a bad way to end the day. Or, in our case, to wrap our G Adventures tour in Brazil.

Itinerary ideas for one more week in Brazil

If you happen to have a bit more time and are wondering what to do during a third week in Brazil, we recommend taking a look at Salvador, the capital of Brazil's Bahia region, and São Paulo, Brazil's largest city. These destinations offer complements and contrasts to the experiences, culture, nature and places visited earlier. Here's why.

Salvador de Bahia, 4-5 days

Prior to our visit, we knew little about Salvador and Bahia until our friend Barbara, a travel colleague and friend who knew Brazil well, suggested we pay it a visit to round out our time in the country. She explained that Bahia would be very different from everything else we'd seen experienced on our trip.

It turns out that she was spot on.

Salvador, the capital of the northeastern Brazilian state of Bahia, features a long, deep history — one that is evident and in many ways still alive today. Founded in 1549 by the Portuguese as the country's first colonial capital, Salvador also served as the first slave port and market in all of South America. A significant portion of the estimated 4-5 million slaves that were brought to Brazil, mainly from West Africa, were trafficked through Salvador.

Today, Salvador and Bahia are considered the epicenter of Afro-Brazilian culture. An estimated 80-90% of the population are descended from African slaves, and much of the music, spirituality, and cuisine that arrived with them has been passed down through the generations. Adding further complexity, some of this culture and style blended with indigenous and European traditions. What you encounter on the streets is colorful, vibrant, and lively.

All of this history, together with the backdrop of 16th-19th century Portuguese colonial architecture in Salvador's old town, has earned it UNESCO status. In fact, Pelourinho, the name of the neighborhood which forms the heart of Salvador and its old town center, is the Portuguese word for pillory, a kind of whipping post once used in the main square to punish slaves. A clear sense of local cultural pride in the Afro-Brazilian culture, music and cuisine — formed in part as a resistance and response to hardship — stands in contrast to this harsh reminder.

Our visit to Salvador happened to coincide with the season of preparation and practice just prior to Carnaval. As Salvador features the largest Carnaval celebration of its kind in Brazil, this is a serious affair. We were fortunate to take in “blocks” — or groups of musicians and performers — coursing through the street of Salvador, working out the rhythm and moves of their routines. That and arriving on the day of the Festival de Música e Artes Olodum, meant that the sound of drumbeats and voices echoed through the colonial streets from early morning to well into the night.

Salvador street art, from graffiti to full-on murals — impressed us, too. Works were striking, provocative, colorful, cultural, and reflected some serious artistic skill. Salvador featured some of the best street art in all of Brazil, really.

Our recommendation is to walk around Pelourinho, keeping your eyes open for street art and murals lining side alleys or wrapping around corners. Continue up the hill along Rua do Carmo to Largo do Santo Antonio, perhaps stopping at Cadê Q'Chama? for a hearty moqueca baiana, a traditional coconut milk and seafood stew. Make a big loop back to Largo do Pelourinho, wandering and drifting freely to admire the art and also the Art Deco architecture, much of which is in a state of revitalization.

When you've had your fill of the city's sights and sounds, head out to the beach for a few days. Bahia's most famous beaches like Itacare and Ilhaus seemed a little too far away for us for the couple of days we had. We did, however, enjoy a couple of chill days at Stella Maris beach, in the far north suburbs of Salvador.

São Paulo, 2 days

Although São Paulo doesn't feature the same allure and beauty as Rio, we still wanted to visit Brazil's biggest city before leaving the country. With limited time there, we decided to focus mainly on street art, the Vila Madalena neighborhood, some more sushi and a fresh market or two. We used Jenna's delightful guide to São Paulo to help us plan our remaining time. Her husband's family is from São Paulo, so her guide offers the perspectives of both a visitor and local.

Were our timing better, we would have booked a walking tour with Andre to explore the the older parts of São Paulo and to learn more about its history and development. Although we didn't experience this tour ourselves, we're confident to recommend it. We were able to meet Andre one evening — he's passionate about his home city and has the bearing of a thoughtful yet humorous guide. He also kept us well fed by steering us towards Tanuki Restaurant in Vila Madelena (excellent sushi!) and Mercado Municipal de Pinheiros, whose flea market center is ringed with fun restaurants and bars.

Visas to Brazil

Fortunately, visas to Brazil have recently become easier than they once were for many nationalities. Travelers from EU countries can travel visa-free for up to 90 days. And from June 17, 2019 citizens of the United States, Canada, Japan and Australia will enjoy visa-free travel to Brazil. Win-win.

If you do need a Brazil visa before this change of legislation, then you can get an e-visa here for around $44. It’s a pretty straightforward process requiring that you upload a copy of your passport and a photo, then fill in an online form. We received a response within a few days.

Safety in Brazil

We were told that safety has improved in many cities and locations in Brazil. Places that are popular with travelers are often patrolled and thus quite safe, too. We also felt safe taking the metro in Rio and São Paulo. All that said, it's wise to remain diligent, careful and aware of your belongings and surroundings.

We always asked our tour leader, local guides or hotel staff for advice. If there was any doubt, we would take a taxi or Uber instead of walking, even if the distances were not particularly long. We'd also heard stories about taxis being problematic — ripping off or robbing travelers. So we always took either an Uber or an official, authorized taxi at the hotel. [Note: Uber in Brazil is great for travelers – easy to book on the app, no money is exchanged as you can pay by credit card through the app, and we always felt safe with our drivers. We also met some interesting people along the way.]

If we were highly recommended to avoid a particular area, then we did so. For example, when we arrived in Salvador there was a huge music concert festival underway on the main square. Our guest house host told us to avoid the crowds because of pickpockets and theft — something that's common to huge throngs of partiers and concert-goers no matter where you are — so we enjoyed watching the concert from our balcony instead.

Transportation around Brazil

Brazil is huge — truly. Even though something may look close on the map, be sure to verify the distance and time on Google Maps or similar. For example, we took a 12-hour bus between Iguazu Falls and Bonito. According to our map, we'd barely moved.

Especially if your time is limited, domestic flights are worth considering to avoid spending all your time on a long-distance bus. The internal flights on our G Adventures Wonders of Brazil tour were included as part of the tour. However, we also booked one-way flights from Rio de Janeiro to Salvador, then Salvador to São Paulo — with Avianca and Latam, with generally good results.

We used Skyscanner to understand all flight possibilities and options, including those from low-cost airlines. When we booked our flights directly on the Avianca Brazil website we found that the cost in Brazilian Reals was considerably less than the cost in USD. So, it's wise to do a quick calculation comparison between currencies to be sure you’re booking in the currency featuring the lowest cost.

Buying a SIM card in Brazil

If you're a foreigner, you'll need to go to one of the official mobile phone company shops to register your passport and personal details when you buy a mobile SIM. We chose Claro as it was recommended to us for having good coverage. Their shop was also convenient to the hotel area in Copacabana, Rio. We've also heard that TIM and Vivo are good options for staying connected while traveling in Brazil.

The registration process to buy the SIM takes some time as employees must fill in forms and scan your passport. Allocate about 45-60 minutes for this initial process. After that you can recharge your prepaid plan at most pharmacies and grocery stores around the country. We ended up choosing a weekly data plan that cost 14.99 Rs ($3.75) and included 2GB. It worked pretty well throughout the country, but we just had to remember to recharge our plan just before it expired each week.

The post Brazil Experiential Travel Guide: 18 Things to Do, See and Eat + 2 Week Itinerary appeared first on Uncornered Market.