This Lost City Columbia Hiking Guide shares why that is and includes a day-by-day overview of the Lost City Trek, all you need to know to choose the right tour, how to pack and organize so that you can enjoy the Ciudad Perdida and this multi-day hike to the fullest.

We were out of breath, having just climbed 1,200 stone steps when Celso, our indigenous guide, called for us to join him around a group of stones arranged in a circle in a clearing. In the middle of the circle stood another square stone on top of which lay a pile of coca leaves placed as an offering. Celso explained with trademark calm in a slow, deliberate voice, “This is a place where we should let go of our impurities, our negative thoughts and emotions.”

We stood in silence, not only to “cleanse” ourselves so that we might better experience this sacred site, but also to enjoy its peace and quiet. To Celso, we were then prepared to further visit Teyuna, otherwise known as the Lost City (La Ciudad Perdida) in Colombia, the ultimate destination to which we’d been trekking in the rain forest for the previous two days.

Here’s why you might want to consider putting the Lost City or Ciudad Perdidia in Colombia on your travel or hiking wish list, in case it isn’t there already. In this Lost City Colombia Guide we include the day-by-day hiking experience plus all you need to know about to choose a Lost City tour and how plan, prepare for and pack to be able to enjoy the complete Lost City Colombia experience.

Update: This article was originally published in June 2015 and updated in May 2022 with information about the new G Adventures Lost City Trek itinerary.

The following experiences are from our G Adventures Lost City Trek. If you are considering this tour and want to know what to expect, here’s a taste of the itinerary and route, interaction with local indigenous guides, campsites and Wiwa community project. Disclosure: This tour was sponsored and provided to us in conjunction with our partnership with G Adventures as Wanderers.

About this Lost City Colombia Trek Guide

When I researched the Lost City Trek as part of our travels in Colombia, I found a fair bit of conventional history about the site, often paired with a photo or two of the final destination, including what I refer to as the “golf course” shot.

What I didn’t find much of was information on what the actual journey to the Lost City was like, including the hiking experience, difficulty, landscapes, sleeping and eating conditions, weather, and more. That's the goal of this Lost City Trek day-by-day section.

The landscape along the trail is more beautiful and varied than we had expected and the Lost City site itself is far more extensive than most photos indicate. We especially appreciated having an indigenous guide to put everything into cultural and historical context.

Celso, a member of the local Wiwa indigenous community, shared his culture with us and linked it to the other indigenous communities, their relationship to nature and their shared connection to the ancient Tayrona civilization.

Our days usually began early, around 5:00 A.M., so we could get on the trail while it was still cool and so that we could complete our day’s journey before the rains of the mid-late afternoon. We appreciated getting up early, and we enjoyed all the benefits of the early morning – light, coolness and silence among them.

Lost City Trek Map

The map below shows the basic Lost City trail with different options for campsites and sections. We did a four-day hike, but if you opt for a five-day Lost City trek then your second and third days will be shorter as you'll have two days to complete that same route. The current G Adventures Lost City Trek is five days.

Hiking to the Lost City in Colombia: Day by Day Itinerary

Day 1 of the Lost City Trek

All Lost City treks, no matter which tour company you choose, seem to set off from Santa Marta in northern Colombia. From there, a jeep or van transfer takes 45 minutes along the highway.

You’ll likely stop at a convenience store for last minute snacks and water. From there, you’ll head up a dirt track into the mountains.

After you arrive in Machete, you’ll have lunch, say goodbye to the driver and meet your local indigenous hiking guide. Then, the hike begins. (Note: this is when you should ask the people coming off the trek if they have a walking stick they can give you. It is really helpful for balance and ease on the trail.)

The beginning of the walk eases you into things, with a swimming hole a close 25 minutes from the trailhead. After cooling off in the water, you’ll have a steep uphill for around 45 minutes, then a bit of a break, then a long descent into the valley where the first campsite is located.

Day 2 of the Lost City Trek

If you are doing a 4-day Lost City Trek, then this is a long hiking day. If you are doing a 5-day route like the G Adventures Lost City Trek then this will be a similar distance as the previous day, 7-8 km, to Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2).

The first segment of the day takes you uphill and across some beautiful terrain, including some local farms. After a jump in a swimming hole and lunch at Campsite #2 (Wiwa Camp), we continued all the way to Campsite #3 (El Paraiso or Paso Lorenzo Camp), located only 1 km downhill from the site of the Lost City.

If you are doing the 5-day Lost City Trek, then you would stop at Campsite #2 for the night.

This day takes you through a great deal of varied landscape — deeper into the tropical jungle, across rivers and by a couple of Kogi village communities along the way.

Day 3 of the Lost City Trek: Visiting La Cuidad Perdida

You rise very early on this day (around 4:30A.M.) so that you can set off at dawn and enjoy the Lost City in the softest light and coolest air possible. After a short walk from the campsite, you reach the starting point of the 1,200 stone stairs you’ll need to walk and scramble to reach the terraces of the city above.

It’s not an easy climb, and can be a bit treacherous if wet or damp, but if you take care and get into a meditative rhythm, you’ll find it goes very quickly.

After the steps, you’ll have reached the lower chambers of Teyuna, also known as The Lost City or Ciudad Perdida. It is believed that this was a capital city built by the Tayrona civilization in 800 A.D., approximately 600 years before the Incas built Machu Picchu in Peru.

When Spanish colonialists came close to finding or approaching the in the 16th century, the Tayrona people opted to abandon the city instead of allowing it to fall into Spanish hands.

Of course, the Lost City Colombia was never truly “lost.” Teyuna was overtaken by jungle for the next several hundred years, as only the shaman (holy men) of the four indigenous groups who live in the area were aware of its existence and would visit it regularly for ceremonies.

It wasn’t until the early 1970s that the site was “discovered” by the outside world. Tomb thieves cleared out much of the gold, valuable artifacts and other remains. Due to this misfortune and the fact that no written record of the Tayrona exists, much about the city and civilization remains the subject of speculation.

The Wiwa, Kogi, Arhuaco, and Kankuamo indigenous groups that remain in the area are believed to be the descendants of the Tayrona and have carried on their stories and traditions.

We noticed when we arrived at the Lost City, Celso let down his hair, the surprising length of which is said to represent the wisdom that flows from the sacred mountains through the rivers to the coast. He was dressed in white, as was his custom, to represent the purity and integrity of the snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, out of sight in the distance.

Throughout our journey, he shared stories that had been passed on to him, through generations, from shaman to shaman, from elders to children, about the Lost City / Ciudad Perdida. The stories told of its creation, the symbolism of the different terraces, and the Tayrona relationship with nature.

The indigenous people that inhabit the area around the Lost City in Colombia believe they are the symbolic “elder brothers,” there to protect both the sacred Sierra Nevada Mountains and their “younger brothers” – meaning the rest of us.

The sense of responsibility to the equilibrium and the good and health of others was evident.

After your visit to Teyuna, the Lost City, you return to El Paraiso or Paso Lorenzto Camp (Campsite #3) for a quick lunch and begin your return all the way to Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2).

For us, we were met with an afternoon downpour that made it feel as though we were skiing through mud crevasses in the rain forest. We were glad for the experience. It was actually more delightful than it sounds as the rain was warm and everything around was so green and lush drinking in the much appreciated water.

Day 4 of the Lost City Trek

Start/Finish: Wiwa Camp (Campsite #2) to Machete and Santa Marta
Distance: 12.7km
This is another early rise since much of the trail is uncovered and therefore becomes quite hot as the day goes on. Try to make it as far as you’re able before the sun becomes too strong.

As you’ll remember from your first day, much of the trail is up or down, without much in between. After a stop for fruit at the first campsite and a jump in the swimming hole, you find yourself back where you began, with a celebratory lunch in Machete.

Then you'll transfer by vehicle to Santa Marta for a nice, hot shower and to reunite with the rest of your stuff.

Lost City Trek Difficulty and Hiking Conditions

We’d give this trek a medium-high difficulty ranking for all the reasons we’re about to elaborate. This means that you should not require special training to hike the Lost City Colombia trail, but you should be relatively active and in good physical shape.

You should either be accustomed to or be prepared for day-long treks with steep, slow uphill climbs and long walks in intense heat and humidity.

Lost City Trek is Not a Technical Trail

The Lost City Trek is not at all technical, meaning that you will not need any special equipment (e.g., climbing ropes or other fittings). The trail is well-maintained and for the most part, it’s an easy path to follow. But, it’s necessary to have a guide to navigate the rivers and some turns.

You’ll have to cross a few streams or rivers — with river shoes on or with your shoes and socks in your hand — but that is part of the fun.

Altitude, Steep Hills and Valleys

Altitude is not really an issue, as the trek’s highest point is around 1,500 meters/4,920 feet. However, the Lost City trail seems to either be straight up or straight down without much flat so there's a lot of steep ascents and descents on the trail.

Our advice is to take it slow and steady on the uphill. Keep in mind that it’s not a race. It’s better to hike deliberately and slowly and take fewer breaks than to go quickly and wear yourself out with frequent and longer stops to recover.

Heat and Humidity

One of the challenges of the Lost City Colombia Trek is the combination of heat and humidity. I’m not sure we’ve ever poured sweat with such intensity and consistency. It actually felt great, like a cleansing process.

Just be sure that you drink plenty of water to replenish. Note that respite from the heat comes a couple of times a day in the form of rivers and swimming holes to jump into.

Bugs Along the Trail

Another challenge and irritation of this trek: bugs and their bites. There are lots of them, especially mosquitoes at the Lost City itself. We suggest applying plenty of bug repellent (bring on the DEET if you need to).

If you are especially susceptible to mosquito bites consider hiking in long trousers as Dan did. Finally, pick up a pack of generic B-complex tablets (“Compejo-B generico” runs 25 pills for $1.00) in a pharmacy in Santa Marta before the hike, as certain B vitamins are said to repel mosquitoes.

Another thing to watch out for are fleas and/or bedbugs in the hammocks and/or blankets at the campsites – this is where we collected most of our bug bites (especially campsite #2). We recommend carrying a sleep sack, so that you have another layer of protection while you are sleeping.

Finally, check your body closely for ticks when you emerge from the Lost City Trek. We each had a few on us; they are very tiny and difficult to see, so look closely. (Note: For advice on how to properly remove a tick, check out this article.)

Rain and Mud Along the Lost City Trail

We had been warned plenty about rain and mud, but didn’t find wet weather too much of a hindrance. Yes, it rained from time to time (usually mid-afternoon), but it was often so hot anyway that the cool rain was welcome.

Be certain any valuable electronic gear is well-protected and any dry sleeping clothes are at least wrapped in plastic (e.g., ziploc, garbage bags or a dry sack) inside your backpack. Then, have an outer backpack cover to protect your backpack from the elements.

If you fall in the mud, just go with the flow and don’t think about it too much. You can always wash yourself and your clothes later.

Best Time to Hike the Lost City Trail

While you will experience heat and humidity almost all year round in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of northern Colombia as it is a rain forest, there is still a rainy and dry season. December through March is considered the dry season and so it often is considered the bet time to hike the Lost City Trek.

In general, May through September is considered the rainy season for the region. This means expect more downpours and higher river crossings. That doesn't mean that you should avoid those months altogether as the rain can be a welcome relief from the heat and provide an interesting experience. For example, we did our G Adventures Lost City Trek in early June and thought the few rainfalls were kind of pleasant and added to the experience.

Note: The Lost City Trail is usually closed in September for trail maintenance and to do upkeep on the campsites and other services.

Lost City Trek Food

You will certainly not go hungry on the Lost City Trek. Each group is assigned a cook and not only will you be served three large meals a day (e.g., fish and rice, pasta, chicken and potatoes), but you will also enjoy well-placed fruit stops along the trail. These are very welcome for the additional boost of energy and hydration just when you need it.

If you are vegetarian or have food restrictions (e.g., gluten or lactose free), alert your trekking company and your guide in advance so they can respond accordingly.

Lost City Trek Campsites and Sleeping

There are a handful of different campsites along the way that the tour companies use. We can only speak firsthand to the ones that we stayed in — Adán Camp, Wiwa Camp, and El Paraiso — but we understand that the other campsites are quite similar in design, comfort and services.

Not always, but often, you’ll have an option to sleep in a hammock or on a mattress/bed (both with mosquito nets). We always chose the hammocks, but some may prefer mattresses.

There are cold water showers and flush toilets at all the campsites. Clotheslines will be strung around so you’ll be able to hang up your wet clothes from the day. However, the rain forest is damp so do not expect anything to fully dry overnight, if at all.

Evenings also get cool, so keep a long-sleeved shirt or fleece jacket handy at night.

Organizing a Lost City Tour: Your Options

Choosing a trekking operator

You cannot do the Lost City Trek independently (at this time), meaning you must go with one of the four or five authorized tour operators. We took our Lost City Trek with G Adventures and can highly recommend the experience.

G Adventures work with a local organization that provides indigenous guides so that their travelers are able to learn about the indigenous cultures and communities still living in the Sierra Nevada mountain area.

Regardless of which operator you choose to take you on the Lost City Trek, we suggest you select one that works with indigenous guides. The cultural and living history background is essential to a full Lost City Colombia experience.

How many days do you need for the Lost City Trek?

Most trekking operators offer four-, five- or six-day trek options. We did the Lost City Trek in four days, but now all the standard G Adventures Lost City Trek offerings are five days. As the route is the same, the main difference is that a five-day trek includes a relaxed day #2 with only a few hours of trekking to the second campsite.

As for the six-day option, we can’t really imagine taking that much time to do the trek. But if you are worried about your trekking abilities and stamina then talk with an operator regarding what they suggest.

Leaving your luggage behind during the trek

Most accommodation and tour operators/trekking agencies will allow you to leave your big bags or luggage with them for the few days that you're doing the Lost City Trek. We left our big backpacks at our hotel in Santa Marta and we saw other travelers leave their bags at the tour operator/trekking agency office.

Lost City Trek Essential Gear and Packing List

Much of what we include in our Hiking Essentials Checklist holds true for the Lost City Trek. However, we offer a customized Lost City Trek packing list with recommended hiking gear for this specific hiking experience. The goal is to ensure you have what you need for the tropical rain forest conditions but that don't overpack and weigh yourself down with a heavy backpack.

While there is the option on some of the route to hire a mule to carry luggage and belongings, it's best not to count on it. You should pack and plan as if you will be carrying your pack the entire length of the trail.

Trust us, pack light. You’ll quickly begin to feel the extra weight going up those steep hills.

Hiking Backpack for the Lost City Trek

When we did our Lost City Trek we just repurposed our regular travel and laptop daypacks. This worked fine at the time, but since then we have invested in real hiking backpacks that fit our backs better and don't cause any aches and pains in the shoulders or back.

Here are two recommended options for hiking backpacks that will fit the hiking clothing and gear you need, but not be too big or bulky:

• Women's Hiking Backpack: I have a larger version of this Deuter ACT Trail Pro SL Backpack (22-Liters) and love it. The SL backpacks are designed for women's bodies and I find this backpack fits me really well, is well designed with its own backpack cover and zippered areas, and is both light and sturdy.
• Men's Hiking Backpack: Dan loves Osprey hiking backpacks as they fit his body type (e.g., tall) and back really well. He likes the Osprey Stratos 24-Liter Hiking Backpack for day hies or for multi-day hikes like this where you don't need to carry a lot of gear.

Refillable Water Bottle for Drinking Water

You will go through several liters of water each day (if not, then you’re not drinking enough) since you’ll be sweating constantly. Bring with you 1-2 refillable water bottles or a water bladder so that you always have at least one liter of water on you at all times.

Each campsite offers clean water, so you can refill your water bottles every couple of hours on the trail. If you really want to play it safe consider carrying with you a SteriPEN or sterilization drops.

Consider bringing electrolyte sports drink tablets or packets with you to help you replenish some of the minerals that you’ll sweat out each day. And let’s face it, sometimes drinking liters of water gets boring and you want some flavor.

Walking Stick

We highly recommend carrying a walking stick. We were very thankful for ours, especially when things got muddy and slippery. Hikers just finishing and on their way out of the trail donated their wooden sticks to us. If this doesn’t happen, then ask your guide for one and he will find a walking stick for you, or fashion one for you with his machete.

Alternatively, bring your own walking sticks (these are good travel-friendly walking sticks). We usually just use one stick each so a set of two is sufficient for two people.

Hiking Clothing for the Lost City Trek

You really don’t need much in the clothing department. Don’t worry about packing clean clothes for each day. You will be sweating buckets within minutes every morning of getting out on the trail.

Here’s what we suggest for hiking clothing and gear essentials:

• 1 set of hiking clothes: T-shirt (preferably quick dry), shorts, hiking socks. This means you will wear the same clothes every day. Don’t worry about it. Everyone does it. And you’ll be thankful not to carry the weight of extra clothes.
• Note: if mosquitoes love you, consider wearing hiking pants the whole time. Dan did this and it cut down on his mosquito bites considerably. If you are especially sun-sensitive, consider bringing a very light long-sleeved hiking shirt, but be aware that you may be warm.
• Hiking shoes: We wore low-rise hiking shoes (his and hers) and these worked great for us. Other people wore light trainers, however some mid-ankle support is useful because of the pitch of the terrain.
• 1 set of evening clothes for post-shower and sleep: T-shirt, long pants (or pajama bottoms), socks. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside your backpack.
• Extra t-shirt: Just in case.
• Underwear for every day of your trek: With an extra pair thrown in for good measure, if you like. Recommended his and hers quick dry underwear for men and women.
• Extra pair of socks: Just in case your first pair get soaked beyond comfort while rock jumping at the river crossings.
• Bathing suit: Keep near the top of your backpack to have handy for swimming holes.
• Long-sleeved shirt: For cool nights or sleeping (recommended his and hers).
• Fleece jacket: For cool nights or sleeping (can double as a pillow, too).
• Rain jacket (optional): We didn't use ours due to the heat and humidity. We appreciated the cool rain. Not to mention, a rain jacket in the tropics can feel like a personal sauna.
• Flip-flops or river shoes: To use in river crossings, showers, and evenings when you wish to get out of your hiking shoes. Women's Tevas | Men's Tevas

Other Essential Hiking Gear

• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand. Your guide will likely also have a supply of plastic garbage bags in case you need extra rain protection.
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off after showers, and also after a swim. Hang it on the outside of your backpack in the morning so it dries quickly in the sun and air as you move.
• Silk sleep sack: To provide an extra layer between you and the hammock (or mattress) and blanket. Fleas and other bugs in the hammocks bit us and other travelers we spoke to.
• Headlamp: Most of the campsites do not have electricity, so be prepared. Carry your own headlamp to find your way to the toilet and to sort through your stuff at night in and around your hammock.
• Silicone earplugs: A precaution in the case your camp has a snorer. We know from our Lost City experience that this can demolish a good night’s sleep.

Toiletries and Health Kit

You will have access to a shower every evening, and you will be so thankful for the cold water shower to wash away all the sweat and salt on your body from the day’s efforts.

• Shampoo, soap, toothbrush and toothpaste: The basics.
• Sunscreen: The higher the SPF, the better
• Sunglasses: Of course.
• Bug repellent: You will apply this frequently, especially at the Lost City itself. The mosquitoes there are big, aggressive and plenty.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side.
• Pack of tissues or toilet paper: The campsites all have toilet paper, but it’s always a good idea to carry a pack of tissues in case of messes, spills or emergencies.
• Vitamin B Complex: Take one pill per day (called Complejo-B in Spanish, available at pharmacies in Colombia). Supposedly, mosquitoes don’t appreciate the smell and taste of your blood when B-1 Thiamine is present. It is debatable whether this really works to repel mosquitoes, but we appreciated using it and felt that it helped.
• Foot care and blisters: Duct tape is very effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet. Also consider picking up some Compeed, which is magic when you already have blisters.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Your guide will also have some basic first aid items with him, but it's always good to be prepared. Our basic medical kit includes: Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration powders or electrolyte tablets, Azithromycin/Ciprofloxacin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol/Panadol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea), tea tree oil (great to apply to mosquito bites) Note: all these are easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Santa Marta from where you depart for the trek.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

While a couple of the campsites do have electricity, it’s unreliable. Prepare yourself for not having access to electricity during the trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode. There is no connectivity along the trek anyhow, so don't waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. It provides another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spent time reviewing your images, as this will eat up your battery power quickly. Unless you are reviewing images to determine whether you’ve captured a specific shot, there will be time enough for photo review when your trek is finished.

Have other questions about the Lost City Trek in Colombia? Just ask in the comments below and we’ll incorporate the information into the article so others may benefit.

Disclosure: Our Lost City trek was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

The post The Lost City, Colombia: A Guide to Hiking to La Ciudad Perdida appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Over the last years we've been fortunate to do some incredibly beautiful and challenging hikes around the world, yet hiking in Bhutan remained high on our travel wish list. We were curious about the trekking experience given the country's location in the Himalayas, its focus on environmental conservation and the fact that Bhutan sees so few visitors.

We chose to hike the Druk Path Trek, one of Bhutan's most popular trekking routes, in late January-early February. Our decision to do a winter trek, something that we had never done before (we usually flee the cold), provided a new sort of adventure, experience and challenge for us.

The experience did not disappoint. We enjoyed the winter trekking experience, appreciating the snow, stillness and silence. The following tells why — and makes the case as to why you might want to add trekking in Bhutan, whether the Druk Path Trek or another route, to your trekking wish list.

We’ve included in this Bhutan Trekking Guide all you need to know to plan, prepare for and enjoy trekking in Bhutan. In addition, we provide some information about a new trekking route in Bhutan – The Trans Bhutan Trail — recently restored and opening up again to the public in April 2022 for the first time in 60 years.

The following experiences are from our Druk Path Trek on a tour to Bhutan with G Adventures. Currently, this tour no longer includes the Druk Path Trek as part of its itinerary, but if you want to go trekking in Bhutan then we recommend looking into the G Adventures Camp the Trans Bhutan Trail (11 days) or Highlights of the Trans Bhutan Trail (12 days). If you want to know what to expect on a trek in Bhutan, this article shares a taste of a trekking itinerary and route, trek difficulty, campsites, food, and what you need to pack and prepare. Disclosure: This tour was sponsored and provided to us in conjunction with our partnership with G Adventures as Wanderers.

Bhutan Covid Travel Requirements

Bhutan is opening up to all tourists on 23 September, 2022 without any quarantine requirements (check for official updates). Bhutan used its focus on community and trusted leadership to manage the pandemic quite well. In April 2021, Bhutan was able to vaccinate 85% of adults (first shot) in just one week and in early 2022 the country was finishing up a booster vaccination campaign. This shows the country's commitment to public health and protecting its people.

Find more Covid-19 travel resources and recommendations on how to travel responsibly during Covid with care towards the health and safety of local communities and people.

The Trans Bhutan Trail: A New Trekking Route in Bhutan Starting in 2022

The history of the Trans Bhutan Trail is deep and goes back thousands of years as an ancient trading and pilgrimage routes between Bhutan and Tibet. The trail not only connected fortresses, or Dzongs, across remote areas of the Bhutanese Kingdom, but it was also used by Buddhist pilgrims to visit sacred sites and temples in western Bhutan and Tibet.

Although the trail was actively used for centuries as it was the only way to get to certain remote parts of the country, it fell into disrepair and disuse in the 1960s. Repair of the trail began in 2018, but the restoration of the Trans Bhutan Trail was accelerated during the Covid-19 pandemic as 900 furloughed workers worked to rebuild bridges and create hundreds of miles of footpaths.

The Trans Bhutan Trail is being opened to the public in April 2022 so travelers, local people and pilgrims can walk this ancient trail once again. The total length of the Trans Bhutan Trail is 403km / 250 miles long, going from Haa in the west to Trashigang in the east. Don't feel like you have to do it all; you can select shorter segments of the trail to experiences specific mountain landscapes and culture.

The goal of hiking the Trans Bhutan Trail is not only to be able to enjoy the stunning landscapes and nature of the high Himalayan mountains, but also to connect with local people, culture and communities along the way through village homestays, sourcing food from local farms, and other community initiatives so that rural communities also benefit from the trail and tourism.

In addition, the Trans Bhutan Trail is focused on several sustainability initiatives to conserve the natural environment, from a zero plastics policy along the trail (which also includes providing refillable water bottles and filtered water) to planting a tree for each international visitor.

Our partner, G Adventures, was selected as the first group adventure tour operator to offer trekking tours when the trail opens in 2022. This speaks to the alignment of values regarding community tourism and sustainability.

Currently, G Adventures is offering two different active tours that include selected segments of the Trans Bhutan Trail. This includes the G Adventures Camp the Trans Bhutan Trail (11 days) that has a similar style as the tour that we took as it includes four days of trekking with several nights of camping. Alternatively, Highlights of the Trans Bhutan Trail (12 days) also includes several days of hiking the Trans Bhutan Trail, but has more family homestays and guesthouses for overnights than camping. Both tours include both trekking and visiting some of Bhutan's famous monasteries, temples and sites, so it's a good balance of experiences and immersion into Bhutan's nature, culture, history and cuisine.

What to Expect on a Bhutan Trek: The Druk Path, Day by Day

The Druk Path Trek, or Thunder Dragon Path, takes you approximately 36-45 km (22-28 miles) through pine forests and rhododendron thickets, along mountain ridges and past alpine lakes in the lower Himalayan Mountains in western Bhutan. The trail follows an ancient mule route connecting Paro and Thimphu, and the area plays home to yak herders in the summer months. The highest point of the trek is Labana Pass at 4,200 meters / 13,800 feet. Much of the trail and its campsites sit at a similar and fairly high altitude, so the Druk Path Trek is considered a medium-difficulty trek.

When I researched the Druk Path Trek, especially for information regarding winter trekking and conditions I found plenty of tour itineraries. However, I didn't find many details or images of the different landscapes and experiences — and possible weather — along the trek.

That's what this “Day by Day” section is aimed to do: to help you understand the actual trek journey and give you a sense of what you might encounter and experience each day, including the camping, difficulty of the trail and landscapes.

Our days usually began early, with tea served to us inside our tents around 6:30 A.M. Breakfast followed around 7:00. The goal was to set off on the trail in the morning when the skies were still clear and the sun had the chance to warm things up. As is typical in the Himalayas, clouds might develop as the morning and day unfolded.

Note: The route below is for the four-day Druk Path Trek that we took with G Adventures in late January. Many tour companies offer this as a five to six day trek, but we found that four days was perfect for us in terms of the daily distance, difficulty, breaks and free time in the evenings at the campsite. If you are in reasonable shape and have some experience trekking at altitude then four days for this trek should provide ample time.

Our trekking guide made a couple of adjustments to our route due to winter conditions so that the mules carrying our gear wouldn't injure themselves on the snow and ice. If you do the Druk Path Trek in the spring or fall you might notice a few differences to the route below, but most of it will be the same. Also, our guide said that our small group walked rather quickly. Some daily hiking times might be longer if your group is larger or has less experienced trekkers. Note: the hiking times below do not include resting, snack and lunch breaks.

Day 1: Ta Dzong to Jele Dzong Temple to Tshokam

Most Druk Path Treks set off from outside Paro in the early morning. You'll make your way by van transfer along a relatively new dirt road rising into the hills for around 30-45 minutes. (Prior to the road being built, this segment was part of the actual trek.).

At the conclusion of this short ride, you'll meet your trekking support team: a cook, assistants, mule handlers and a group of mules to carry your tents, your allotted camping and trekking gear, all the food and cooking gas, and the kitchen, dining and bathroom tents.

The start of the walk begins on the dirt track and eases you into things with a slow and steady incline that takes you into mid-alpine woods. Eventually this turns into a steep uphill for around 45 minutes through beautiful forest trails until you reach a clearing where you begin to get above nearby hills and have a view of the valley below.

After a short incline you'll reach the 15th century Jele Dzong temple and take a tea break. The temple guardian was away during the time of our visit. If he's around, you'll be allowed to explore inside.

We continued onward alternating between forest paths and trails along the edge, revealing valley views and mountain layers in turns. At one of the clearings we stopped for lunch, a hearty meal of rice and several hot dishes.

We began our final push towards the Tshokam (Dry Lake) campsite (3,800 meters/12,500 feet) on mostly flat trail. When we arrived, our tents had already been set up for us, which is always nice to see after a day of hiking.

We took the free time and enjoyed the last bit of sunshine with some snacks and tea outside. It gets cold once the sun sets, so we enjoyed a bonfire before and after dinner.

Day 2: Tshokam to Janytscho to Simkotra Lake

While this is a shorter trekking day than the first, it features a couple long, steep inclines which make for a bit of a challenge. Our guide had to make a few adjustments on this day due to snow and ice on the trail. As a result, we didn't go on the higher (and longer) trail to Jimilang Tsho lake as it was dangerous for the mules.

The first segment of the day is relatively flat and takes you on a forest trail along a stream and over a bridge. After a short break there, you continue to a clearing called Narithang for some mid-morning tea and snacks.

Then the uphill really begins. This was a steady climb of a couple of hours through the forest. The idea: go slow and steady on the steep incline so that you maintain a consistent pace as you climb in altitude. The trail continues from the woods onto a clearing at Janytscho which overlooks the lake. This is where we stopped for lunch and a rest, but we've heard that some groups will stop here to camp for the night.

It was a winter trek after all, so we encountered some snow and ice on the trail at this point, so we and the mules had to be careful on the ascents and descents. The path continues along a rocky ridge until you reach Janye Tsho, an overlook draped with prayer flags and offering views of the nearby snow-covered Himalayan mountains in the distance.

It's an easy and short walk from here to the campsite near Simkotra Lake at 4,000 meters / 13,100 ft. As this is the highest elevation campsite of the Druk Path Trek, expect it to also be the coldest campsite at night. Be sure to bundle up with lots of layers, especially if you are doing the trek in winter, early spring, or late fall.

Day 3: Simkotra Lake to Labana Pass to Phajoding Monastery

This was my favorite day of the Druk Path Trek as it not only took us to the highest point of the trek — Labana Pass at 4,200 meters / 13,800 ft — but it was also filled with a diversity of landscapes, experiences and views. Note: Sometimes trekking groups camp before Labana Pass making it part of the fourth day.

We woke up to a blanket of snow everywhere at Simotra Tsho. This meant that some of the views we were supposed to have that morning of the high Himalayas were obscured by the clouds. Instead, we enjoyed some remarkable landscapes in the beauty of their winter stillness and silence as the snow continued to fall for the first couple of hours.

The trail is a combination of a gentle uphill and flat through endless rhododendron patches until you reach the final ascent towards Labana Pass (4,200 meters / 13,800 feet). This final push is a bit steep, but you'll be rewarded at the top with prayer flags and excellent vistas, including of the valley below and of the snow-covered mountains of Dochu La and Jhomolhari in the distance.

The trail then descends into the valley on a rocky ridge path for another hour or more. We stopped for lunch before continuing up along a chain of small hills until we reached a chorten atop one final peak overlooking Thimphu, Bhutan's capital city.

Descend into Thimphu Valley on a rocky trail for around 30-45 minutes until reaching Thujidrak Goemba, a Buddhist temple and meditation center stitched into the mountain rock face at 3,950 meters / 13,000 feet. We were fortunate that a local monk was around. He let our group inside to see the 14th century temple.

From there it was an easy walk downhill through fields to reach Phajoding Monastery. The camping area on the monastery's edge had recently been closed to trekkers so our group ended up staying, with the permission of the resident monk and school principal, in the monastery's abandoned schoolhouse.

Since temperatures dropped quite considerably that night, we were thankful for the protection the building provided from the wind and cold. However, a new camping area is being set up for future groups.

Day 3: Phajoding Monastery to Thimphu

This final day is very easy, with a relatively short downhill hike. The dirt trail from the monastery continues through the forest, and becomes steep at times, so use your walking sticks and be careful.

As the elevation decreases, the trees and flora begin to change. You hear signs of “civilization” below as cars and trucks use the mountain roads.

The trail ends at the edge of the forest, near one of the prince's residences. Our tour driver met us with a big smile, a selection of local beer, cake and other snacks. This is where you'll say goodbye to your trekking support team and the mules that carried all of your gear during the trek.

Bhutan Trekking Difficulty Level and Conditions

We’d give the Druk Path Trek a medium difficulty ranking given its length, inclines and altitude. You should be accustomed to or be prepared for slow, steep uphill climbs at reasonably high altitude. A couple of the people in our group felt that the long ascents and hills on the first day were quite difficult, but this broke them in and they didn't have problems with any of the climbs during the rest of the trek.

If you are already relatively active and have some experience trekking at altitude you shouldn't have any problems along this trek, nor should you require special training. However, if you don't have a lot of hiking experience then consider doing a series of long day hikes, preferably with hills, prior to this trek. In addition to preparing you physically, this will help build your confidence.

The winter conditions made this trek a bit more challenging for us at times as we had to watch our footing more in the snow and ice. Nights were also very cold (down to -10 C / 14 F). This did not impact the trek experience or its difficulty much.

The Druk Path Trek is not technical, meaning that you will not need any special equipment (e.g., climbing ropes or other fittings) or training. The trail is well-maintained and is easy to follow. Even in the winter, none of us had any special ice or other gear, just some gaiters to prevent the snow from getting in our shoes.

Dealing with Altitude When Trekking in Bhutan

The Druk Path Trek does take you pretty high, up to 4,200 meters / 13,800 feet, at its highest point. In addition, the first two campsites are just below and just above 4,000 meters / 13,100 feet. This means that you need to be prepared for hiking and sleeping at altitude. If you don't have experience at altitude, be sure you talk with your trekking guide about what to expect and possible symptoms of altitude sickness.

Take it slow on the uphills. It's better that you walk at a steady pace and take fewer breaks than to quickly wear yourself out by speeding up the hills and needing to recuperate with frequent and longer stops. Proceeding at a slow, steady pace will also allow your body time to adjust to the high elevation.

Be sure to drink lots and lots of water, as in liters per day. This is one of the best ways to prevent potential altitude sickness. Consider using a water bladder in your day pack and drink from it regularly as you walk. I find I drink more water this way than with a water bottle, that usually requires a stop to get it out the bag.

Our tour included an acclimatization hike to Kila Goempa outside of Paro. This helped us adjust to the terrain and the altitude. If your tour does not include this, be sure to ask for an acclimatization hike. Acclimatization is important to gauge how your body reacts to altitude. It also prepares your body for the multi-day trek ahead.

Snow, Rain and Mud Along the Druk Path Trek

Since we chose to do the Druk Path Trek in winter (late January/early February), we understood that we might encounter snow. We packed — and at times wore — waterproof/water resistant pants, jackets, and gaiters to protect us from the snow, wet and cold.

We did not find the snow and winter conditions a problem, but a feature and differentiating factor of this trek and timing it in winter.

During other times of year, especially in May as you get close to the rainy season, you might encounter some rain and mud along the trail. It's always good trekking practice to carry waterproof layers or a rain poncho with you to protect you and your daypack from rain and the elements.

See the packing list section below for recommended trekking gear to pack to keep you warm and dry, and protect you from the elements.

Food Along a Trek in Bhutan

You will certainly not go hungry while trekking in Bhutan! Each trekking group is assigned a cook and a couple of helpers. In addition to three hot meals per day you will also have several tea breaks and snacks (e.g., cookies, popcorn) along the trail and when you arrive at the campsite.

On our Druk Path Trek, breakfast included a combination of a hot dish (e.g., eggs or oatmeal) with toast and different toppings (peanut butter, jam, honey, etc.). For lunch and dinner expect several options of Bhutanese vegetarian dishes (e.g., chili and cheese, sauteed greens, vegetables and cheese, etc) and a meat dish or two (e.g., chicken, beef or pork curry) served with rice or noodles. We ate mainly from the vegetarian options as we prefer lighter, vegetarian meals when we trek.

If you are vegetarian, vegan or have food restrictions (e.g., glucose or lactose intolerance), alert your trekking company and your guide in advance so they can respond accordingly.

Campsites and Sleeping Arrangements

The Druk Path Trek has a few standard campsites that are located on flat ground and near a water source. By the time we would arrive at the campsites, our 2-person tents and sleeping mats were already set up for us by the trekking support team (luxury, I know!). A large tent is also set up for eating meals together.

At night we would usually have a bonfire made from dead or fallen tree or bush branches (it's illegal to cut down branches) to warm us up as it got rather cold once the sun went down. Just before bedtime we were given hot water bottles to put in our sleeping bags – so nice!!

Each morning hot tea or coffee was delivered to our tent at around 6:30 AM as a wake up call. A bowl of hot water followed to wash our face, hands, etc. We would then pack up the stuff in our tent before taking breakfast in the dining tent at around 7:00AM.

There are no showers or permanent toilets set up at the campsites, but the trekking support team set up a camping latrine or toilet at each one. Please use this instead of going off into the woods so that all waste and toilet paper is collected and disposed of in one place.

Best Time to Go Trekking in Bhutan

The high season for trekking in Bhutan, including the Druk Path Trek, is in the spring months of April and early May when the rhododendron bushes and trees are in blossom. September, October and early November are also considered good times to trek because it's dry, warm and the skies are clear.

The summer months from late May to July are usually not considered a good time to trek as this is the rainy season so you would likely encounter muddy and rainy conditions, as well as clouds blocking views of the surrounding mountains.

Although winter (January – February) is not considered a recommended time to do the Druk Path Trek, we actually enjoyed it. The snow and winter weather added another dimension to the experience and we had the trails and campsites to ourselves. It can get very cold at night (-10 C/14 F), however, so it's important to pack a warm sleeping bag, lots of warm layers, and waterproof gear.

All this said, weather in the Himalayas is highly variable.

Organizing a Trek in Bhutan

Choosing a Bhutan trekking company

You cannot trek in Bhutan independently, meaning you must go with an authorized tour operator in Bhutan. This means that your trek will be fully supported, including a trekking guide, cook, helpers, and a team of mule porters to carry your trekking and camping gear. The same minimum daily package fee for Bhutan applies on treks as well.

Our Druk Path Trek was with G Adventures and was part of a larger 11-day tour to Bhutan. We recommend this as the tour combines several days on the trek where you are immersed in nature with visits to temples, fortresses and towns to learn more about Bhutan's culture, religion, people and history. Note: The Druk Path Trek tour that we took no longer exists, but both the G Adventures Camp the Trans Bhutan Trail (11 days) and Highlights of the Trans Bhutan Trail (12 days) offer a similar combination of trekking with exploring Bhutan's monasteries, historical sites, villages and towns.

For more details on how to get a visa to Bhutan, minimum daily package fees, flights to Bhutan, and more, check out our Bhutan Travel Guide.

Packing for a Trek in Bhutan and Leaving your Luggage Behind

For the Druk Path Trek and other treks in Bhutan with G Adventures (and other trekking agencies), you are allowed to bring a maximum of 7.5 kilos per person for the mules to carry. This includes your sleeping bag, clothes, toiletries, towel and any other trekking gear you might need at night.

We carried a day pack with us during the day with water, camera, snacks, and necessary layers and winter bits like hat and gloves.

We left our big bags or luggage behind with our tour driver in Paro. We took only what we needed for the trek with us. At the end of the trek, when we emerged from the mountains all our luggage was waiting for us in the tour van. It was available immediately when we arrived at our hotel in Thimphu.

Bhutan Trekking Packing List

Much of what we include in our How to Pack for a Trek article applies here. However, we offer a customized Bhutan Trekking packing list based on our Druk Path Trek. It has a special focus on winter trekking as this was our experience, to ensure you have what you need to stay warm and dry in all conditions, but that you don't overpack.

Remember that you will not have access during the day to the bags with the 7.5 kilos/person of gear so this bag should only include things you need at night. All our waterproof gear and jacket layers we carried with us in our day packs. Better to be prepared as you never know when the temperature and the weather might change as you walk.

Even with these layers, try to pack your day pack as light if you can. You’ll quickly begin to feel the extra weight going up those steep hills.

Drinking Water

You should consume several liters of water each day (if not, then you’re not drinking enough) since you’ll be walking at altitude most of the time. Bring with you a refillable water bottle or a water bladder (or both) so that you always have at least one liter of water on you at all times. I find that I drink more water on the trail when I drink from a water bladder so I carry both.

For hygiene and safety, you'll have access to boiled water at the campsites. This can be used for tea and coffee, but it is also what we used as clean water to refill our water bottles. If you really want to play it safe consider carrying with you a SteriPEN, sterilization drops or a water bottle that includes a filter.

Trekking Daypack

Recommended Women's Trekking Daypack

Deuter ACT Trail Pro Backpack: Very light with all sorts of great functionality like a built-in rain cover, water bladder compatibility, wide waist belt for stability, and more. I have the 32-liter, but you could go with a smaller 28-liter option for this trek as you don't need to carry that much during the day. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI (28-Liter) | Buy on Backcountry.com (34-Liter)

Recommended Men's Trekking Daypack

Osprey Packs Stratos Men's Hiking Backpack: Dan is a big fan of Osprey packs as they are adjustable and fit his back and torso well. The 24 – 34 liter size is great for day hikes or as a day pack on multi-day treks like this. Buy on Amazon | Buy on REI | Buy on Backcountry.com

Sleeping Bag

It's very important that you bring a warm sleeping bag so that you are not uncomfortable in your tent at night. We highly recommend getting a sleeping bag that is COMFORT rated to -10 C/15 F (or even warmer). Even if you don't trek in the winter time it still gets rather cold at night and it's better to take off layers or unzip the bag than to not be warm enough.

We purchased this Mammut Nordic OTI winter sleeping bag, which was warm enough, synthetic (vs. down, which requires more care) and came at a great price. However, it's a bit bulky and took up quite a bit of space in our luggage.

Another good sleeping bag option would be one of the down sleeping bags offered by Hyke & Byke (e.g., this sleeping bag goes down to 0 degrees F) as they are very reasonably priced for down and the quality of the bags. Here are some other winter sleeping bags offered at REI.

Trekking Poles / Walking Sticks

We highly recommend carrying trekking poles. We were very thankful for ours, especially on the steep downhills and when the trail was covered in snow and ice. We brought our own set of travel trekking poles (they fold up compact) with us. We share one set between the two of us so that we each carry one pole on the trail.

If you didn't bring walking sticks with you ask your guide if you can rent or borrow them. Our guide made several wooden sticks available for people in our group who didn't have them. They were very thankful to have them.

Clothing to go Trekking in Bhutan

You don't need a lot of clothes, but you do need the right layers. Don’t worry about packing clean clothes for each day, as you can just re-wear the same things each day. Trust me, no one cares and that's what everyone does. Here’s what we suggest:

• 1 pair of trekking pants: We're both been using Clothing Arts Travel Pants (for men and for women) as our go-to trekking pants for over eight years. They've been through a lot of different treks and conditions, yet remain in excellent condition. We find the additional secure pockets useful on treks for keeping phones, money, tissues and other things handy.
• Thermal underwear (top/bottom): I love my silk long johns as they are warm, comfy and take up almost no room at all. Also good is Uniqlo's Heat Tech collection of thin, but warm, layers of leggings and tops. Dan is still keen on his Patagonia zipper top and bottoms that he's been using for over two decades.
• Short or long-sleeved shirts: I often start with a quick dry t-shirt at the bottom and then add the layers on top. This tends to wick away any sweat quickly so that I don't get cold. On this trek, however, I mainly used a long-sleeve shirt as my bottom layer (e.g., this Uniqlo option or this REI long-sleeved option) as I was aiming for warmth.
• 3-4 pairs of socks: I love SmartWool hiking socks. My first pairs lasted me almost seven years of heavy usage. If you prefer a thinner sock check out their ultra-light line. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry
• Hiking shoes: We wore low-rise Oboz hiking shoes and were fine. Other people wore light trainers. However, some mid-ankle support is useful because of the pitch of the terrain, and some traction is the soles is useful when you encounter rain, mud, snow and ice. Men's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry + Women's Obuz Sawtooth Hiking Shoes: Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry
• 1 set of sleeping clothes: I prefer sleeping in different clothes than the ones I've hiked in all day. So even if it's cold in the tent I'll change into my sleeping clothes as it feels cleaner to me. Given the winter conditions this included a long-sleeve Uniqlo HeatTech shirt, fleece jacket, warm leggings (or fleece-lined running tights), socks, hat, and scarf. To ensure these remain dry, pack them in a plastic bag or other impermeable container inside the bag the mules are carrying.
• Underwear for every day of your trek: With an extra pair thrown in for good measure, if you like. Recommended men's underwear and women's underwear.
• Long sleeved pullover or zipped layer: This thin layer provides an important layer of warmth during the day. Buy on REI (Men's)| Buy on REI (Women's)
• Light fleece jacket: For an extra layer during the day or to keep warm during sleeping, but not too bulky. Buy on REI (Women's) | Buy on REI (Men's)
• Rain jacket: A useful layer for warmth and against the snow, rain or wind. You can use a light windbreaker-in-a-bag that is water resistant or a more substantial waterproof rain jacket like this (women's and men's).
• Down jacket: This is an invaluable layer, especially if you are trekking in the winter, as the jacket compresses into a small bag so it's light and easy to carry. But, it provides an important layer of warmth, especially when you get to the campsite and the temperature drops as the sun goes down. Dan has really enjoyed his down jacket from Uniqlo. I use a similar down jacket to this.
• Flip-flops or river shoes (e.g., Tevas): To use at night in the campsites to give your feet a break from hiking shoes. Women's Tevas & Men's Tevas.
• Shoe gaiters: We picked up a knock-off North Face pair of gaiters in Paro before our trek to protect our shoes from getting wet from the snow on the trails. We were very thankful to have them, especially on day 3. Gaiters are especially important if you're doing a winter trek and expect snow. Buy at REI | Buy on Amazon
• Crampons or Traction Cleats: If you're doing the winter trek and have fears of slipping on the ice, carrying a pair of lightweight traction cleats can provide peace of mind. We left our set of Yaktrax traction cleats at home (we were not expecting much ice) and were fine without them. We used our walking sticks to maintain balance on ice. However, were we to pack again for a winter Druk Path experience, we would bring them with us just to be on the safe side. Buy on Amazon | Buy at REI

Other Trekking Gear

• Waterproof backpack cover: You never know when a rainstorm will hit, so it’s essential to keep a rain cover for your backpack close at hand. Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry | Buy at REI
• Quick-dry travel towel: To dry off your hands or face after washing them in the morning. Hang it on the outside of your backpack in the morning so it dries quickly in the sun and air as you move. Buy at REI |Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry
• Sleep sack or sleeping bag liner: To provide an extra layer of warmth in the sleeping bag. Highly recommended. We prefer the silk liner option as it is light to carry, but a warm layer. Buy on REI | Buy on Amazon | Buy on Backcountry
• Headlamp: The campsites do not have electricity so a headlamp is useful to make your way to the camping toilet and to sort through your stuff at night in the tent.
• Silicone earplugs: A precaution in the case your camp has a snorer.
• Hand or toe warmers: If your hands and feet get cold easily consider bringing a pack of adhesive hand and/or toe warmers. One of the women in our group had bad circulation. She used these adhesive warmers daily in her shoes and gloves. They were a lifesaver and really helped keep her warm and comfortable. Buy on Amazon | Buy at REI

Toiletries and Health Kit

On the Druk Path Trek, you won't have access to a shower. But hot water bowls in the morning go a long way.

• Soap, toothbrush and toothpaste: The basics.
• Sunscreen and lip balm with sunscreen: The higher the SPF, the better. You'll be at high altitude.
• Sunglasses: The sun is strong at altitude.
• Hand sanitizer: To be on the safe side.
• Pack of tissues or toilet paper: The campsites all have toilet paper, but it’s always a good idea to carry a pack of tissues just in case.
• Duct tape: Very effective for hot spots and blisters on your feet. Also consider picking up some Compeed, which is magic when you've already developed blisters.
• Medical Kit (for emergencies): Band-Aids, anti-bacterial gel (for cuts), rehydration powders, ciprofloxacin (or another medication against stomach bacteria), Tylenol (anti-headache/aches), Immodium (or some sort of “stopper” if you get diarrhea), tea tree oil (great to apply to cuts and mosquito bites) Note: all these are easily and inexpensively purchased at local pharmacies, including in Paro from where you depart for the trek.

Electricity and Charging Batteries

None of the campsites have electricity so prepare yourself for not having access to electricity during the trek. Some tips to handle this and further your battery power.

• Put your smartphone on airplane mode to not waste your phone’s battery power trying to find a network.
• Consider buying a phone case that doubles as an extra battery. It provides another 1-1.5 charges.
• Take an extra camera battery or two.
• Don’t spent time reviewing your images, as this will quickly consume your battery power quickly. Unless you are reviewing images to determine whether you’ve captured a specific shot, there will be time enough for photo review when your trek is finished.
• Pack a solar-paneled power bank. We would leave ours outside in the early morning light or during breaks along the trail to charge it in the sun. Not sure how much it really recharged, but ours did give us some much appreciated juice to recharge our phones after a couple of days.

Have other questions about trekking in Bhutan or the Druk Path Trek? Just ask in the comments below and we’ll incorporate the information into the article so others may benefit.

Disclosure: Our Druk Path Trek and tour in Bhutan was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers program. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

The post Bhutan Trekking: The Druk Path Trek and New Trans Bhutan Trail appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Prior to our visit, Bhutan was a destination that, for us, held the space of the protected, the preserved, the unknown.

Upon landing in Bhutan, we grasped how our experience would reflect that notion. We were removed physically but also mentally from the day-to-day, tucked away in this mysterious place. It is perhaps rather fitting that Bhutan was the last trip we took prior to the pandemic so that we were able to take away some of its lessons regarding the value of a community approach that by protecting others we protect ourselves and everyone benefits.

Covid-19 Update for Bhutan Travel: Bhutan opened its borders on 23 September, 2022 for all tourists without mandatory quarantines (check for updates). We know people who have already traveled there since this opening and had a very good experience.

Known as the Land of the Thunder Dragon because of the alpine storms which sweep in from the Himalayas, Bhutan understands the value of protecting itself — just as it did when marauding Tibetans historically rolled in from the plateau seeking coveted Buddhist relics. The Kingdom of Bhutan, forged from fortress-bound kingdoms, was for much of its history off limits. In fact, international tourism only began in the 1970s and there are still limits on the number of visitors allowed per year to manage this.

Even now, open yet careful, Bhutan feels somehow out of reach — yet it’s not. It’s accessible. But it is one-of-a-kind with all the cultural facets one might expect from a place flush with a complicated royal family history, monasteries stitched into Himalayan hillsides, and a pervasive mysticism which does not find distinction from the state.  

That’s the allure of visiting, especially as the country and its people define their place in the world and teach others through its example as the first carbon-negative country in the world and its focus on prioritizing community.

This is what we encountered in Bhutan. And why you may want to consider adding Bhutan to your travel wish list when it is safe to travel again.

The following experiences are highlights from our Bhutan Tour with G Adventures and are presented in chronological order as we experienced them. If you are considering a similar tour to Bhutan and want to know what to expect, here’s a taste of the itinerary, activities and destinations you'll experience. Our tour included the Druk Path Trek, but this trek has been replaced by an exciting new hiking option – the Trans Bhutan Trail – that is the same path used by royals, monks, and traders for thousands of years that has been revived for hikers to enjoy. Not all G Adventures tours to Bhutan include hiking so if you are a big hiker you might want to choose either the Camp the Trans Bhutan Trail (11 days) or Highlights of the Trans Bhutan Trail (12 days) that include some hiking as well as many of the experiences highlighted below. Disclosure: This tour was sponsored and provided to us in conjunction with our partnership with G Adventures as Wanderers

Bhutan Travel: 20 Things to Do, Places to Visit and Experience

1) Hike up to Bhutan’s oldest nunnery, Kila Goempa

Spend any time in Bhutan and you’ll quickly realize that many of the country’s temples, monasteries and meditation centers are perched on cliff or stuffed into a mountain’s edge. Kila Goempa, located near Paro and believed to be Bhutan’s oldest nunnery, is no exception. But, you have to work a bit —i.e., hike for several hours — in order to see it for yourself.

Our hike began at Chelela Pass at 3,810 meters/13,500 feet, a layer of snow and frozen prayer flags reminding us of the season: winter. The hike follows a relatively easy trail through the forest, though with snow it becomes a little tricky and slippery. After a couple of hours you emerge from the trees below Kila Goempa and its compound of meditation cells and residential halls perched above.

It’s believed that this has been a place for meditation since the 9^th century, but that the temple and monastery was built in the 17^th century. Today, it is home to around 50-70 nuns who live and study there, including a few in the process of doing a 3 year, 3 month, 3 week silent and solitary meditation retreat. Respect.

Bonus: This is good acclimatization hike. It also exercises some of your gear if you plan to do the Druk Path Trek. (link)

2) Immerse yourself in Bhutan’s mountains on the Druk Path Trek

If you know us, you’ll know we take every opportunity we can to go trekking and get into nature. We specifically chose our tour because it included trekking in Bhutan on the Druk Path Trek — four days exploring Bhutan’s mountains, disconnecting and getting away from it all.

Each day of the trek included a diversity of landscapes and trails – through the forest, along mountain ridges, up rocky inclines, over mountain passes. As we chose to do a winter trek we also experienced the thrill of occasional snow, which turned out to be both beautiful and peaceful. Evenings and nights could get quite cold, but a sense of “invigorating” adventure pervaded as we camped in the Himalayas in winter.

3) Celebrate at the highest point of the Druk Path, Labana Pass (4,200 meters/13,800 feet)

One of the highlights of the Druk Path Trek was reaching Labana Pass, with its views of the nearby Himalayan sub-ranges and surrounding valleys. Not only was this a challenge to reach because its elevation at 4,200 meters/13,800 feet, but during our winter trek we also had to make our way through a considerable amount of snow and ice to reach this pass.

All worth it though.

4) Admire the temple cats…and understand their symbolism

Buddhism, the primary religion of Bhutan, asks its devotees to care for all sentient beings, including all animals. This is why you’ll often see food left out for stray dogs and cats near Buddhist temples and monasteries, as well as in chosen spots in towns and cities. It was no different at the Thujidrak Goemba temple on the third day of our Druk Path Trek. Water and food was left out for local cats and dogs. Signs were posted about caring for animals, too.

It’s also worth noting that in Bhutan there are four levels of prayers for devotees entering a temple. The first is for animals since they do not have the ability to pray for themselves. Then comes prayers for society and the nation, followed by prayers for family. And last, are the prayers for oneself. A very fitting – and deliberate — order.

5) Circumambulate around Memorial Chorten in Thimphu

Built in remembrance of Bhutan’s third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, the Memorial Chorten (or National Memorial Stupa) is a popular place for locals to hang out. The tradition now is that family members drop their elderly parents off on the way to work so they can spend the day with their friends, take time to pray, do circumambulations of the Memorial Chorten and nearby prayer wheels, and have some fresh air.

(Note: circumambulations – movements around a sacred object – in Bhutan are always done in a clockwise direction.)

Although the Memorial Chorten is painted white and may appear plain on the outside, the three-story interior is flush with color, imagery and idolatry — paintings, statues, shrines, mandalas and more. Our CEO (tour leader) walked us through each floor, explaining the meaning of and stories behind the different deities, Buddhas, incarnations and shrines.

Note: It is forbidden to take photos inside any Buddhist temple in Bhutan, which is why you see only exterior images here. This restriction is minded out of respect to sacred destinations and to avoid disturbing or distracting praying visitors. We like it.

6) Get your fill of Bhutanese food, especially ema datshi (chili and cheese)

We didn't know what to expect of Bhutanese cuisine before our trip, but were pleasantly surprised. It’s tasty, generally pretty healthy and distinct yet influenced by its neighbors (India, China and Nepal).

Also pictured in the image: mixed veggies, Bhutanese chili sauce “Ezay” (yes, you read that right), pakshaa paa (greens or green beans, chili peppers and hefty strips of pork fat), buckwheat noodles, carrot ginger soup, and Jasha Maru (Bhutanese chicken curry).⁠⠀

A typical Bhutanese meal will consist of several, mainly vegetarian, dishes like you see in the image below. One traditional dish that stands out and is a nearly ubiquitous favorite: Ema Datshi — chili and cheese (pictured top right in the image). In this dish, the chili peppers are the vegetables. Each version we tried featured varying levels of heat, but they all gave a kick and served as a welcome side or condiment.⁠⠀

⁠Our recommendation for eating in Bhutan: focus on the veggies. Almost all vegetables you find in meals in Bhutan are organic and grown locally. All meat is imported from India. This is because killing animals is outlawed in Bhutan for religious purposes.⁠⠀

7) Admire traditional Bhutanese archery at a local competition.

Archery is the national sport of Bhutan. Yes, it’s much more difficult than it looks. (We know as we tried it later in the trip.)

Traditional Bhutanese archery employs a bamboo bow in an effort to strike a tiny 90 cm/3 feet tall and 30 cm/11 inches wide bullseye from 145 meters/475 feet away. Yes, that’s almost 1.5 football or soccer fields away. It’s insanely far.

And yet, when we crashed an archery competition in Thimphu, we saw an occasional arrow strike the target. When it did, the shooting team would do a short dance and sing in celebration. Silence returned soon after as deep concentration was needed to repeat.

8) Try to count the 100,000 statues inside the giant golden Buddha Dordenma 

Overlooking Thimphu sits the massive golden Buddha Dordenma, the second largest seated Buddha statue in the world (the largest is in Hong Kong). Although this Buddha is impressive from the outside, what’s inside is even more remarkable: an estimated 100,000+ small Buddha statues, all of gilded bronze.

In addition to several shrines and a large meditation area, the interior also features several photos of the Bhutanese royal family which tell the succession of kings and queens over the centuries. An in-depth visit here will outline the role of and relationship between the royal family in Bhutan and Buddhism, the country’s primary religion by constitution.

9) Visit the open air market to learn about local spices, chilis and incense

While in Bhutan, take all opportunities to visit local markets and strings of local vendors on the street.  We suggest this not only to learn about the ingredients of and culture around local food, but also to engage with and meet local people in Bhutan. The Centenary Farmer’s Market in Thimphu is definitely worth a visit, with its piles of dried and fresh chili peppers (why Bhutanese food has such a kick to it), Sichuan peppers, chopped bitter gourd and much more. (Note: we picked up some Sichuan peppers and roasted chili flakes and they definitely have a kick!)

We were also impressed also by the endless varieties of incense, of varying colors, textures and blends. Incense is a bit of an art in Bhutan and is used to purify air in temples, homes and markets.

10) Check out some live rock music for a taste of modern Bhutan

You wouldn’t think a visit to a venue featuring rock music cover bands should make a top travel in a destination list. In Bhutan, it’s different.  

While much of what you’ll see and experience in Bhutan is connected to traditional culture, it’s worthwhile to spend a night out at live rock music bar to get a feel for the flip side of modern day Bhutan and its youth culture.

The highlight at Mojo Park in Thimphu isn’t hearing a live band cover songs from Coldplay to David Bowie. Instead, it’s being in a bar — one that could be anywhere in the world — and watching young Bhutanese interact, dress in both traditional and non-traditional Bhutanese clothing, drink, sing along with western rock songs, but sing even louder and more passionately to Bhutanese rock songs.

If you happen to spend a night or two in Thimphu, hop on over to Mojo Park for a craft beer, a fun night, and a little insight into Bhutan’s future.

11) Admire the phalluses (in sculptures and paintings) en route to Chime Lhakhang, The Temple of the Divine Madman

Yes, you are seeing these photos correctly. Phalluses of all sizes, colors and designs are painted on the sides of homes in Bhutan. They symbolize power and are thought to ward away evil spirits and protect against gossip. As a side benefit, they also shock – and sometimes delight – visitors.

The prevalence of painted and sculpted phalluses is especially high around Chime Lhakhang, or Temple of the Divine Madman, dedicated to the lama Drukpa Kunley of the 15^th and 16^th century. He was a rather unconventional lama who preached in an unorthodox way which shocked traditional Buddhist priests and the hierarchy of the day. He is known to have subdued a demon with his “magic thunderbolt of wisdom” and advocated for people to display the phallus symbol on walls and to hang it from the four corners of their homes.

To no surprise, the Chime Lhakhang temple is also known as a fertility temple. Visitors travel there from all over Bhutan and the world to be blessed and to have special prayers said for them in their hopes of having offspring. The temple even maintains a photo album of photos sent by parents who’ve borne children after their visit.

12) Take in the rituals and living history at Bhutan’s Temples

 All of Bhutan’s temples and fortresses are alive, active with monks, nuns, and devotees. None, it seems, are static. Few if any serve only as museum. This means that as a visitor you are a guest, respectful of the local people, and the rituals, blessings and silence happening around you.

For example, it’s common for locals to make offerings — of food, money, incense, etc. — for blessing and to pay respect. For those who have made them, these offerings don’t serve as pretty displays. Instead, offerings like the fruit bowl above are used to feed and support the monks studying at the attached monastery school. Often, these young monks come from poorer families who rely on the monastery to educate and support their children.

13) Admire Punakha Dzong (Fortress) in Bhutan’s old capital

Punakha Dzong is among a series of fortresses built across Bhutan in the 17th century to protect the country from invaders (mainly from Tibet) as it formed a union of the country’s various kingdoms. The fortress is strategically built between the Pho Chhu (Male) and Mo Chhu (Female) river in the Punakha–valley. In lore, it draws on the strengths of both genders. 

Although it has suffered several fires and invasions, Punakha Dzong stands as Bhutan’s second largest and second oldest fortress, and is widely considered the country’s most impressive. It remains home to the same holy Buddhist relic — Ranjung Karsapani, the “self-created” statue — that attracted Tibetan invaders all those centuries ago, and is flush with local mystique and legend.

14) Turn the prayer wheels at Kyichu Lhakhang Temple in Paro

Prayer wheels are ubiquitous in Bhutan. Used to accumulate good karma (which is often equated with wisdom to combat ignorance) and to rid oneself of impurities (bad karma), prayer wheels are always spun clockwise, typically while reciting prayers or mantras.

At Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan's oldest temples located in the town of Paro, an elderly nun spins the prayer wheels during a visit to the temple with her family.

As anywhere, a moment or two of people watching in Bhutan tells a good deal about the importance of belief and the role of devotion in Bhutanese society.

15) Soak your muscles in a traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath

Think of the hot stone bath as the traditional Bhutanese farmhouse spa. River stones, supposedly mineral-laden, are collected and heated on hot coals for several hours until they are glowing red (and around a temperature of 300 Celsius). They are then deposited into a wooden tub filled with water in order to heat it, thereby releasing minerals. This process is what local people historically used for bathing prior to in-house plumbing taking over.

The way it works here is that you are in a hot tub of your own, on the other side of the wooden tub holding the hot stones which heat your water. While you share the water warmed by the hot stones, you are protected from accidentally touching them by a secure divider. The idea: you get to enjoy privacy and the warmth and minerals from the stones, but you don’t risk burning yourself.

Should you require more heat or warmer water, there’s no switch or tap. Instead you call out “more stones” and another glowing hot stone will be deposited on the other side of your tub. You keep doing this until your desired temperature, which we found to be about 3 or 4 stones (in the middle of winter). You can also ask for cold water if you find that you’ve been overly ambitious along the way.

Then, you soak in the mineral-laden hot water. The water is relaxing and therapeutic. Particularly after four days of trekking in the mountains on the Druk Path Trek, this experience is well-timed and just about perfect.

Note: While many hotels and spas offer hot stone baths, we did ours at a family farmhouse outside of Paro. It was a nice family-run operation and we know that the money we paid went directly to the family.

16) Visit a local family farmhouse for a home-cooked Bhutanese meal

As much as we enjoy eating in restaurants, we’ll opt for a home-cooked meal in a family home any day. These opportunities not only often result in delicious meals, but they also provide an opportunity to meet a local family, see how they live and know that your tour money is truly staying local.

This was the experience we had at a local family farmhouse our CEO (tour leader) took us to outside of Paro on one of our last nights in Bhutan. We enjoyed a hearty meal featuring several vegetable dishes, pork, ezay (Bhutanese chili sauce) and homemade rice wine in a pleasant living room adorned with paintings and symbols.

The 5-year old granddaughter played host, making sure we were well fed and that we possessed all the right utensils. Unwittingly funny and entertaining, she also practiced her English with us. Despite only being five years old, she’d already figured out how to manage everyone and had assumed full control of the house. We wouldn’t be surprised if she’s prime minister one day.

17) Join the pilgrims on the hike up to Taktsang Monastery (Tiger's Nest)

Before arriving in Bhutan, we’d come across plenty of Tiger's Nest temple images. It’s the de facto symbol of the country. What those photos often don’t convey is what an enjoyable and challenging experience it is to get up there, including sharing the path with local pilgrims along the way.

Our G Adventures group set out early in the morning. The idea: to capitalize on the crispness of the early morning light and air and to avoid the crowds. If you look closely in the photo above you might be able to spot the tiny Tiger's Nest tucked high (3,120 meters/10,240 ft) into the mountain in front of us as we set off on what would be three miles (or five kilometers) of winding uphill.

On the way up, you’ll encounter prayer wheels and prayer flags at different turns. You’ll find all manner of contemplation, including locals reciting mantras, saying prayers. The arrangement, tone and color of this particular scene really struck us.⁠⠀

While a visit inside the monastery itself is worthwhile, it was the journey up for us that made the Tiger's Nest experience so memorable.⁠

18) Admire Tiger’s Nest from across the canyon

After hiking for several hours up some steep hills you finally reach a turn and a short descent. From there, Tiger’s Nest finally appears in full view across the canyon. It’s a remarkable sight; the 17^th century temple is built right on the mountain’s edge.

Tiger’s Nest is placed at the location where the Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) is believed to have brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century and is said to have meditated in a cave for 3+ months. This direct connection to Guru Rinpoche has made Tiger’s Nest one of the most sacred temple sites in the country. It is not only popular for foreign visitors, but also for Bhutanese visitors who come as part of a pilgrimage to pray and to receive blessings.⁠⠀

After a short descent back into the canyon and a short hike back up again we finally reached the entrance to Tiger’s Nest. Due to the early hour we had much of the temple to ourselves, sharing it only with a few monks providing blessings. By the time we began our descent, most others were just beginning their hike up. Perfect timing for us.

Note: Upon arrival at the monastery at the top, you’ll be required to secure your phone, camera and any other bags or electronics in a locker at the entrance to the temple. This is to prevent any photos from being taken inside the temple, as well as to avoid distraction and bumping into things with bulky items.

19) Get all dressed up, Bhutanese-style

 On our last night we got decked out in the traditional Gho (for men) and Kira (for women). While traditional dress such as this is required for official visits, in official buildings and at festivals, you’ll find men and women throughout Bhutan continuing to wear similar clothing in everyday life.

While the outfits are attractive and surprisingly comfortable, like any traditional outfit of its kind, there’s a sort of magic to cinching and securing it.

We’d like to think we cleaned up pretty well.

20) Take a spin during a Bhutanese mask dance

Bhutan is a country of festivals and dances, each having its own special symbolism and purpose. Many are connected to Buddhist traditions, beliefs and legends, and the planting and harvest cycles of the agricultural calendar. Some are also connected to the universal themes of love, life, and death.

Although our visit didn’t coincide with festival season, we managed to experience some traditional and mask dances on our last night. Some were light and comical (the two guys who dressed as the self-deprecating yak had us howling!), while others more serious and spiritual. Most impressive, however, were the spins and jumps.

In this way, Bhutanese dance reflects the ups and downs, the contours of daily life and the passage of the seasons.

How to Plan Your Bhutan Travels + Common Questions about Visiting Bhutan

During our travels in Bhutan, we fielded a lot of excellent questions about visiting Bhutan, including some of the practical considerations regarding traveling there, organizing a tour, and all you need to know for your trip.

How to get a visa to Bhutan?

Getting a visa to visit Bhutan is not difficult in terms of submitting a lot of documents to an embassy and waiting for a visa to be issued. However, you must book a tour with the required minimum daily spending requirements (see #3 below). Then, the tour operator will coordinate your visa for you based on the dates of your trip. Although we’ve heard the visa costs $40, this was included in the price of our tour so we did not pay for it separately.

We received our Bhutanese visa by email from G Adventures about a week prior to our tour departure. We printed out the PDF document and showed it when we checked in for our flight to Bhutan and at immigration upon arrival. More information on visas to Bhutan here.

Note: This visa information applies to all nationalities except Indian, Bangladeshi and Maldivian. Citizens from these countries do not require a special tourist visa dependent upon a tour.

Must I take a tour to visit Bhutan?

Starting from June 2022 an authorized tour is not a requirement of obtaining a tourist visa to Bhutan and it is possible to book your trip independently and pay the required SDF ($200/day) to the Bhutanese government.

However, if you choose to take a tour you have the choice whether you want to book a small group tour (e.g., similar to our tour with G Adventures) or an individual or private tour. You have full flexibility to decide your Bhutan travel itinerary, length of your tour, and your activities.

How much is the minimum daily package for a tour in Bhutan? Why is Bhutan so expensive?

The Bhutanese government tourism policy for over 40 years has been that of “High Value, Low Impact.” The goal: to minimize the potential negative impacts of high-volume tourism while maximizing the potential positive impacts and focusing on sustainability from high value or “high quality” tourism.

In June 2022, the Bhutanese government its increased the Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) — the amount that goes to the government from tourists for development project — from $65 USD per traveler per day to $200 USD per traveler per day. All other travel costs are on top of that SDF amount (e.g., accommodation, food, transport, guiding services, etc.). The SDF fee is included in the price of all Bhutan tours.

The idea: a high daily SDF will automatically filter out the large number of budget travelers who do not want to spend that much, yet it will not deter those who really want to visit Bhutan and have no issue spending the required amounts. Note: This fee does not apply to citizens of India, Bangladesh and the Maldives.

If you are price sensitive then the least expensive option for Bhutan is to travel in a small group in the low season. This is what we did by taking a G Adventures small group tour (we had 7 people in our group) during the low season (late January to early February).

Bhutan also limits the number of tourists who can visit Bhutan each year (currently at around 100,000 people/year) so as to avoid overcrowding. Even if you travel in the high season you shouldn’t face loads of tour groups and travelers, which could negatively impact your travel experience.

What is included in a Bhutan tour? How is the money used? 

Essentially, a tour to Bhutan is pretty much all-inclusive. This means that the price and tour includes accommodation, local guide, transport, entrance fees, activities, support services for trekking, and all meals. What’s not included are things like additional drinks (alcohol, sodas, etc.), souvenirs/shopping, personal activities (e.g., spa treatments) and tips.

In addition, $65/day goes to the government as a Sustainable Development Fee. We were told that this money is allocated towards providing free healthcare and education to Bhutanese people. This is an example of how tourism money is invested directly back into the country and its development. 

How do I travel to Bhutan? What airlines fly to Bhutan?

We won’t lie, Bhutan is not the easiest or cheapest destination to reach. There is only one international airport, Paro (PBH). Only two airlines, Druk Air and Bhutan Airlines, are authorized to fly there, and only a limited number of airports links are available in Asia for inbound and outbound flights.

Since neither Druk Air or Bhutan Airways is connected with other international airlines or systems, you often need to overnight in the departure destination (and possibly sort out a visa there) to be sure you don’t miss your fight into Bhutan. In addition, the price of the flights to Bhutan are exceptionally high considering the distance and the general price of flights across the rest of Asia.

However, since don’t have much of a choice flying to Bhutan, you make the best of the situation and try to find the most convenient flights and connections. For us, that meant flying into Delhi, India and overnighting there before getting a flight to Paro on Druk Air. On the return we flew directly from Paro to Bangkok, Thailand on Bhutan Airways. Most of our group flew in from Kathmandu, Nepal.

The price of flights is pretty much the same between Druk Air and Bhutan Airways. We tried both airlines just to see if there was a difference. Although they are pretty similar we’d suggest Druk Air as being a bit more organized and put together. You can book your tickets and pay online with both Druk Air and Bhutan Airways.

Note: The price of flights to and from Bhutan depends on whether you are a Bhutanese citizen, a citizen from a SAARC country (e.g., India, Bangladesh, Nepal, etc.) or a non-SAARC foreigner (i.e., rest of the world). The latter group has the most expensive tickets. If  you think you can trick the system regarding your country of origin, note that Bhutan airline websites will ask for your visa type in advance and warn that they can cancel your ticket if you provide incorrect information.

Which is the best side of the plane to sit on when flying into Paro, Bhutan?

When flying from Kathmandu to Paro, the left side of the aircraft offers the best views. A window seat on the left side (try to get one that’s not directly over the wing, of course) will provide the best views of the high Himalayan mountains, including Mount Everest.

When is the best time to travel to Bhutan?

Many people say that the best time to visit is in the spring months of mid-March to early May when the rhododendrons and other flowers are in bloom and the weather has begun to turn warm. Another good time from September to November, in autumn when skies are supposed to be clear so you should have good views of the mountains. Festival season seems to be mostly in March/April and September/October (you can see a list of all 2022 festivals in Bhutan here).

The monsoon rains usually arrive late May and last through the summer until late August. Although the fields and hills would be super green during this time, I don’t think I’d recommend doing a trek then because of the rain, mud and clouds (no views).

We visited Bhutan in late January/early February, meaning the heart of winter. We chose this time as we usually enjoy visiting places in the shoulder or off season. Although we had to be prepared for some cold weather, especially during the Druk Path Trek with camping in snow, we found winter a good time to visit Bhutan. It was usually sunny and relatively warm during the day, which was quite pleasant. 

In addition, we encountered almost no other tourists the whole time we were in Bhutan, and that also included having the Druk Path Trek trails and campsites to ourselves. Almost all the temples, fortresses and other sites were also quite empty, save an Indian tour group from time to time. This also meant that our walk up and visit to Tiger’s Nest Temple was pleasantly empty.

Are there ATMs in Bhutan?

Before we proceed to the long and somewhat complicated story of using ATMs in Bhutan, we note that carrying U.S. dollars($) or Euros(€) cash is wise. You’ll find this money useful in making exchanges in a pinch and also using in many shops. Exchange rates vary widely between currencies, as well as the denomination of bill (i.e., higher denomination = better rate), and from hotel to hotel and shop to shop, but they are usually based on the Bank of Bhutan rates.

Although there are ATMs in Bhutan (in major cities like Paro and Thimphu), the machines are fickle. We and others in our group made several failed ATM withdrawal attempts before figuring out what steps to take and which types of available ATM withdrawal requests to make in order to see money emerge from the machine.

If you wish to use an ATM card to make withdrawals of local Bhutanese currency (the Ngultrum), you should notify the bank associated with your ATM or debit card that you will be traveling in Bhutan. When withdrawing money from major banks (e.g., Bank of Bhutan, a.k.a. BOB), the “fast cash” withdrawal options (e.g., 5000, 3000 or 1000) were the only ones that seemed to work for us. Selecting the regular withdrawal from a current or savings account did not work. When we needed more money than those options offered, we simply made multiple withdrawals.  (Note: ATM fees are less a concern for us because we bank with Charles Schwab Bank, which refunds to us any ATM fees at the end of each month.)

Even if you notified your bank in advance of your trip to Bhutan, might still fail in getting money out at the Bhutanese ATM and then need to call your bank again…as we did. When inquiring as to why we were experiencing difficulty, we discovered that while there was no issue or block with our bank, there was an issue with the interbank network (Visa, Maestro, Cirrus, etc.). In our case, our bank had to have a conversation with Visa to request that they allow withdrawal transactions from Bhutan to proceed.  Again, try your ATM card first and the fast-cash option might work. If it doesn’t, call the bank and make sure that neither they nor the intrabank network are in the way.

Finally, although you should officially be able to exchange any leftover Bhutanese currency back into a major currency, we would not recommend piling up cash and expecting the exchange to be easy at Paro airport.  Perhaps because it was low season (or the coronavirus pandemic was just underway), money exchanges were empty. Even they were open, I would not be particularly confident that they would be adequately supplied with the proper denominations of currency you prefer or require on your way out of Bhutan.

What is Gross National Happiness in Bhutan?

While most countries in the world gauge their progress using a measure known as Gross Domestic Product (GDP), one based ostensibly on output as a measure of collective wealth, Bhutan uses something different called Gross National Happiness (GNH). The idea: that there is a more holistic or multi-dimensional approach to development and measuring “success” than just GDP and financial yardsticks.

The idea of GNH originally came from Bhutan’s fourth king, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, in the 1970s. Since then it has evolved into measurement device which attempts to quantify whether or not the country is meeting its happiness development goals. The four pillars of GNH include:

• Sustainable Socioeconomic Development
• Environmental Conservation
• Preservation and Promotion of Culture
• Good Governance

While we are not particularly big fans of the “Gross National Happiness” title (it’s a bit gimmicky and reductive) we do respect and appreciate making a more holistic attempt to understand and measure progress and development. It’s admirable that any government, national or otherwise, might attempt to elevate and somehow quantify social, environment, cultural and governance factors – in pursuit of a more sustainable development model. More on GNH here.

As for Bhutan being the “happiest country” and its people being “the happiest in the world” that also strikes us as a gimmick and art of marketing. It’s interesting to note that many of the articles I read authored by Bhutanese people highlighted that “happiness” is personal and what makes one “happy” is often based on a variety of subjective factors.

Bhutan struggles with development and the rush of modernity as many societies do and have. That will likely be apparent to any visitor to the country. And while there’s no one way to make anyone “happy”, there’s arguably some benefit to a people when its government makes an effort to elevate the importance of the environment, culture, social issues and transparency.

Disclosure: Our tour to Bhutan was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. This article includes affiliate links — that is, if you book a G Adventures tour by clicking on one of the links above the price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission to support this website and stories like this. Check out all the different G Adventures tours we've taken and recommend. As always, the thoughts contained herein — the what, the why, and the how — are entirely our own.

The post Travel to Bhutan: A Guide to Explore this Remote Kingdom appeared first on Uncornered Market.

When we set off on our journey around the world over 15 years ago, we did so with the idea that to understand a place, we needed to experience it on the ground, at eye level. To walk its streets, eat its food, and talk to and interact with its people.

We observed women and their evolving role in society. It feels strange saying this as a man — and forgive me for the sweeping generalization — but in so many places (certainly not all), as men played backgammon, dominoes, and cards and drank tea or coffee all day, the women were caring for what needed to be cared for. Whether it was the home, the market stall, the community center or the school, more often than not the women, it seemed, were the ones doing.

This observation, combined with research we consumed about the impact of investing in women, accelerated our interest in projects which focused on women's issues, including their economic and social empowerment. To complete the circle, we now consider this issue in light of how we travel and the choices we make.

Over the years we've asked ourselves how individual travelers might impact this cause through their own deliberate travel decisions and how travel businesses can open up more opportunities to women. This has only increased in importance as the travel went into a “great pause” during the pandemic and so many women lost their jobs and small businesses.

As travel is rebuilding after the pandemic there's an opportunity now for travelers to show their support for women initiatives and business through their purchasing decisions and travel choices. Here are a few practical ways to do this.

Note: This article was originally published in 2016 in connection with a photography exhibition we were part of in Berlin called “Planet Her” focused on the role tourism can play in women's development. It has been updated in 2021, 2022 and 2023 in light of the pandemic and restarting travel to offer more information and practical ways travelers can align their decisions and spending to support women's initiatives and businesses.

Investing in Women: Why it Matters

There is a reason we continue to use the word “investment” in the context of women in tourism and empowerment projects. While visiting a Kiva microfinance partner outside of Cochabamba, Bolivia, we spoke to Servanda, then a borrower and member of the program.

She gave us a hint of the importance of this concept and approach: “Never before did anyone invest in us, believe in us. Even we didn’t believe we were worthy of investment, that we could build something. Now we know that we are able to create our own businesses.” She emphasized that she and her counterparts were not looking for handouts, but access.

Access. To education, to credit, and to opportunities to participate equally in society.

As we asked women involved in these projects — from India to Guatemala to Tanzania — what they would do with the fruits of their business efforts and their newly earned income, their responses echoed a similar theme.

What happens when we invest? Where will that money go when placed in the hands of women who care?

“I want to send my children to a better school.”

“I want to be able to buy better food and take them to the doctor when they need it.”

“I want my daughter to finish school, unlike me.”

The G Adventures and Planeterra Moshi Mamas project near Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania provides business training and market access to sell crafts and services through a locally run social enterprise. Shoshe, one of its participants, summed up her aspirations and hope in the program: “I want to break the cycle for my daughter. I want to prove women can work and earn money.”

To put this in context, according to Kiva, a microfinance organization which lends money via the internet to low-income entrepreneurs around the world, women reinvest 80% of the income they earn into the education and wellbeing of children.

TL;DR: Investing in women is an investment in our future generations.

How Travelers Can Make Decisions That Invest in and Support Local Women

At this point you might be thinking: “All this sounds great, but this investment in women is the work of NGOs and international development organizations. What can I, the average traveler, do to contribute to women’s empowerment and development? How do my choices connect to providing women access to income generation, education and services?”

Quite a bit, it turns out. When travelers align their decisions and purchases with their values, the impact on local organizations and communities can be substantial. However, travelers often don’t know where to look for travel experiences or tourism-related services that support women.

Here are a few ideas to get you started for your next trip.

1. Choose tours which incorporate a women-oriented project in the itinerary.

This may require doing a bit of research and even contacting the tour company or travel agent to ask specifics about the itinerary. Regardless, there are tour companies who work with women’s organizations, and explicitly call out this collaboration in their itineraries. Increasingly, they do this not only as a matter of expressing their values, but also to meet the growing traveler demand for engaged, cause-oriented, experience-enhancing travel interaction.

For example, Planeterra Foundation's portfolio includes many projects that work with local organizations connected to women's empowerment and are incorporated into G Adventures tour experiences. This means that if you travel to Nepal on a G Adventures tour you will likely take a cooking class with women from the local organization Sasane (and partner Sasane Sisterhood), an NGO which trains survivors of human trafficking to be paralegals so they can help to defend other victims.

A portion of the proceeds from the cooking class and lunch is used to fund Sasane’s projects, so it may expand both its reach and its service offering in Nepal. In this way, each traveler makes a small contribution to the Sasane mission of breaking the cycle of human trafficking in Nepal.

In this particular travel experience, the traveler learns how to make Nepalese momos (dumplings, and delicious!) and enjoys the interaction of having lunch with local women. These tours, offered continuously, host a constant stream of travelers. Sasane can count on this as a reliable source of funding for its activities and can reduce the time it spends chasing grants and charity donations. Finally and most importantly, the local women leading the instruction and experience earn money to support themselves and their families.

Recently, Sasane has used some of the guide training and assistance from Planeterra Foundation to expand their offerings to travelers to include trekking. Not only are the trekking guides survivors of human trafficking, thereby offering them employment, but some of the routes go through remote and rural areas of Nepal where trafficking is unfortunately still a big problem. One of the big goals is to build up tourism infrastructure and services (e.g., guest houses, cafes, etc.) around these routes and treks so that these rural areas have more income generating options and alternative livelihoods, thereby trying to reduce the main reason behind human trafficking: extreme poverty. Take a look at the treks and tours they offer if you're traveling to Nepal anytime soon.

Adrienne Lee also spoke to us about the importance of travel market access these Planeterra / G Adventures initiatives provide to the local organizations they work with:

“This was a dream of one of our community development partners for close to ten years. They had received numerous training and consulting services over the last decade, but the link to a market partner (G Adventures) helped them turn around and launch their business. From our initial meetings with this partner to when G Adventures started to pilot their first groups – we launched this social business for marginalized women in less than a year. We anticipate it will be open to the public in just a few months, and the business has already started to see a four-fold increase in their revenue.”

Planeterra launched more projects, thereby offering further opportunities to connect your travels to projects that work with local women. We are particularly excited about the Rwanda project as we first visited the local organization — Nyamirambo Womens Center – during our visit to Kigali, Rwanda several years ago. We passed the organization's contact information onto Planeterra as we were impressed with the NGO’s work in the local community.

Travelers, if you ever wonder about your impact, even suggestions based on firsthand experience can make a difference to the way business is done, and eventually to the lives of people on the ground. For us, it is satisfying to see things come full circle.

2. Seek out social enterprises that work with women and children

A social enterprise is essentially an organization that functions on one level like a business to earn money, but whose profits are given back to the community. In addition, social enterprises often train and employ people from disadvantaged or marginalized backgrounds, sometimes including those who were previously homeless, trafficked or struggling with substance-abuse issues who often don't get a second chance. While the traveler enjoys a great meal, handmade souvenir, or walking tour, proceeds from these experiences fund the community development work of those social enterprises.

After we visited the Taj Mahal in India last year, we went to the Sheroes Hangout Cafe (She + Heroes = Sheroes) in Agra. This social enterprise cafe is run by survivors of acid attacks, a marginalized group in India. The cafe only providing a source of income and employment, but also social integration. The confidence of the strong and resilient women we met there was inspirational, as is the work they are doing on the #StopAcidAttacks campaign. The goal: that no one will ever need to go through what they did. Talk about a masala tea or curry with a cause.

Similarly, on a trip to Cambodia Audrey sought out a social enterprise offering manicures and pedicures. At Friends Nail Bar in Phnom Penh, beauty salon staff are former street children who have been given training in practical job skills through Friends International NGO; they can now support themselves through their work. Audrey emerged with nice nails and a pleasant experience, and the money she spent helped pay salaries and fund training for more young adults in similar or other job skills.

Over the last few years we’ve found more social enterprises emerging, sometimes in surprising places. To help you get started in your search for social enterprises on your next trip, consider checking out the Grassroots Volunteering social enterprise database.

3. Support women’s initiatives and women-owned businesses directly when you travel.

Think of all the services one needs as a traveler: food, tours, guiding, accommodation, transport, etc. Then ask yourself: is it possible to support or choose women-owned businesses or businesses with innovative women’s programs as you fill these needs?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. In any event, it's worth being aware of the possibility so that you might connect your decisions and spending with services that support women.

This approach of linking your decisions with your values could be as seeking out restaurants and shops run by women. This could involve:

• book a trek with the first female trekking guides in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan
• hire a guide and porter from this women's trekking agency in Nepal that supports and employs survivors of human trafficking
• book a taxi in Delhi, Jaipur or Kolkata in India with a female taxi driver
• choose a safari lodge in Botswana whose all-female safari guiding team was the first in the country and on the continent.
• buy souvenirs from a local women's cooperative in Peru.

For even more ideas, here is an article featuring women-led tours and travel experiences from around the world.

There are myriad ways to make an impact, however small. The choices you make do matter.

This is not only directly to the women businesses and organizations you support during your travels, but also as you show your interest and values in this through your purchasing decisions you will also send a clear message to travel companies that you expect and demand this from them. In this way, travelers have the power to push the tourism sector forward, to become even more inclusive of women and other marginalized groups.

Women: The Future

It’s no wonder that the great verbal constructs of stewardship and care — “Mother Earth”, “Pachamama”, “Mother Nature” — all position the force that underlies humanity and brings us together as that of a woman.

As we consider the world’s most pressing issues, including social and economic justice and environmental stability, maybe we ought to look more closely at this force and give it the resources it needs to innovate and craft sustainable solutions.

And when we honor women and their untapped potential, I suspect we will better serve the needs of ​everyone​ on the planet.

The post How To Support Local Women During Your Travels appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Anny guided us through a narrow alleyway in old Delhi, drawing our attention to tiles decorated with religious symbols affixed to a clean yet otherwise nondescript wall.

“Do you know why they put these tiles here?” she asked our group.

Prior to this, Anny’s script departed from that of your typical guide. She threaded the story of street children in India into her tour — how they end up on the street, their survival tactics, the ways they spend the money they make and steal, and their dreams.

Not the stuff of your average light-hearted city walking tour. The story she told was hers, delivered through the lens of her firsthand experience of 18 years. She’d been orphaned at five years old and lived for the last ten years in a shelter run by Salaam Baalak Trust, a local organization providing support, education and training to children who once lived on the street.

“To discourage public urination on the wall,” Anny said, returning to her unsolved riddle. Recognition of a special brand of local wit passed over our group.

During a trip (sponsored) to India and Nepal with G Adventures and Planeterra Foundation, Anny served as one example of the once marginalized now gaining a foothold. We would also meet human trafficking survivors in Kathmandu, survivors of acid attacks in Agra, and stereotype-breaking women driving taxis in Delhi who are all forging their own way, using tourism and the access and opportunities it can provide as a way to break through discrimination, societal norms and ceilings.

We emerged from each travel encounter engaged, our view widened by a humanizing and respectful exchange. It occurred to us that we were also taking part in something much greater: an emerging model of travel-powered social activism where all participants play a role in feeding an undercurrent of social change.

What follows are a few more stories, how it all works, and — if this sounds engaging — what you should look for as a traveler.

Travel and Social Activism: Inclusion of the Marginalized

How did Anny, an orphan living in an NGO homeless shelter, become our Delhi city guide? And how can everyone be positively impacted by this transformation?

Salaam Baalak Trust, in conjunction with project partners Planeterra Foundation and G Adventures, offers the disadvantaged youth it shelters the opportunity to take English language courses and training in guiding and tourism. The goal: to build confidence, practical skills and experience in preparation for when they must leave the shelters at 18 years old and seek employment to support themselves.

G Adventures sends most of its travelers whose trips include Delhi on a city walk as part of their tour, resulting in tour fee contributions from 4,000 travelers each year. This gives guides like Anny, one of nine who’ve been trained so far, an opportunity to hone their skills through real world experience. The revenues from city walks also help to provide a sustainable source of funding, currently around 5% of the total budget, to support Salaam Baalak Trust’s programs.

That the majority of Salaam Baalak Trust guides are currently female also helps break gender stereotypes. Given the forces against women in Delhi, the impact of this cannot be overstated.

As we explore the depth of our curiosity about the world, we are often called to challenge and question the way things are and why.

In the beginning, while leading their tours, many of the young female guides had been hassled and ridiculed by male taxi and rickshaw drivers. However, after seeing them with foreign visitors day after day, the drivers developed a respect for the young women. With so few opportunities for poor and marginalized young women, it’s crucial for society to see them in public spaces and in dignified positions to help reinforce their strength and value.

The city walk is constructed with respect and curiosity and embraces a “there are no bad questions” mindset. Travelers see multiple benefits: a unique experience, deeper knowledge of Delhi, and social context for what they’ll witness throughout India – along with the knowledge that proceeds from their tour fees will in some small way fund much needed social disruption.

Travel and Social Activism: A Personal Story Supplements the Sights

Days later, after visiting the Taj Mahal, a symbol of eternal love, our group piled into tiny little Sheroes Hangout Café – home to survivors of acid attacks — in the city of Agra. A group of women ranging in ages wore “My Beauty is My Smile” t-shirts, greeted us as we entered and shook our hands.

At first, I found it awkward being so happily greeted by a group of women disfigured by acid attacks. This discomfort, I would discover, was mine alone.

As we organized ourselves to leave, however, our primary lesson snapped into view.

The women took selfies with members of our group, intending to upload them to their Instagram accounts. They posed for our cameras. They were excited, smiling straight into our camera lenses. While so many of us were hesitant out of a sense of respect to photograph them when we first entered, we would later understand that they wanted to be seen as much as anyone else. They didn’t want to be hidden. They did not want to hide. Instead, they hoped to exhibit their newfound strength, pride and beauty.

Not only as survivors, but as women.

Exposing Societal Issues, Funding Activism

Sheroes Hangout Café enables the slow but sure exposure of a societal dysfunction. Members of Sheroes (She + Heroes, get it?) — acid attack survivors once ostracized from society who now work dignified jobs — show themselves proudly in public. They support their families. They’ve also gained respect in the community for it all.

Their work and mission doesn’t end there, however.

They’re also out on the streets across the nation leading protests, helping to change laws, slowly wrenching societal norms toward decency — so that acid attacks may no longer be a thing in Indian society. The #StopAcidAttacks campaign chips away at the prejudices and societal structures which had metastisized around them.

While the experience offers travelers a lens or a magnifying glass on the community being visited – in this case the city of Agra and India itself — it can also offer a mirror, since the deeper issues at work often find resonance back home. While acid attacks are thankfully not a societal phenomenon in our home country, the United States, misogyny and violence towards women both are.

Social and Economic Opportunity As a Statement

“I love to drive. I know how empowering it can be,” Meenu Vadera, Executive Director of Azad Foundation and pioneer of Women on Wheels, said.

The empowerment she refers to — it’s economic, social, and personal.

From a traveler perspective, Women on Wheels is a social enterprise taxi service in Delhi and other major cities like Jaipur and Kolkata in India. Their drivers are all female. Many are single mothers, survivors of domestic abuse living in slums or resettlement communities, or both. Azad Foundation, the local NGO behind Women on Wheels, works with the social enterprise Sakha Consulting to provide jobs and women’s rights training to disadvantaged women so they can become professional drivers.

In India, and Delhi especially, a focus on gender opportunity is noteworthy. For example, when we arrived at the airport in Delhi all of the drivers waiting to collect passengers and holding signs were men – except Reena, the young woman scheduled to pick us up.

This airport transfer is now included in all G Adventures tours which depart from Delhi. It provides safe and reassuring transport, particularly for solo female travelers taking their first trip to India.

And to the traveler, the whole experience feels like something is being set right.

The Scale of Change

As I get my hands dirty folding momos (Nepalese dumplings), I learn the story of human trafficking – not only in Nepal where it has increased since the 2015 earthquake, but also around the world. The statistics about human trafficking fast become personal and humanized when a survivor stands next to me and helps me fumble my way through tucking momo dough so my dumplings maintain their structural integrity in boiling water.

At Sasane, a local organization in Kathmandu, Nepal “run by survivors for survivors” of human trafficking, women share their personal journey of what it means to go from the terror of being trafficked to the hope of holding dreams of professional and personal success.

One of the ways Sasane does this is by training survivors with high school degrees to be paralegals. Having experienced something similar themselves, they then use their background and skills to help trafficking victims make reports at local police stations, all in an effort to bring traffickers to justice. Until now, 270 certified paralegals have advised over 9,000 people. Most importantly, police now take them seriously and help with investigations.

For those survivors who are not high school graduates, Sasane partnered with Planeterra Foundation to create the Sisterhood of Survivors program to provide training in hospitality, English and guiding. Participants are able to apply what they’ve learned, including the practical experience of giving momo cooking classes to G Adventures passengers visiting Kathmandu. Proceeds from the classes also help fund Sasane’s ongoing operations, including their programs to combat human trafficking.

This also teaches participants to value themselves and consider their backstory – the fabric of the challenges they’ve encountered and overcome – as a possible source of strength. The consistent and uplifting lesson to these young women: your challenges will always be a part of you, but how can you use them as a force for good?

Traveler Benefit: Participation in the Solution

Social activism-charged tourism enables awareness and understanding of the world and its complexities in context. It goes beyond the single story. Sure, travelers want to see the sights, but increasingly they also crave illumination of the deeper and underlying nature of the places they visit. They want to see the Taj Mahal or the Kathmandu Valley, but they also wish to pair their visits to conventional landmarks with unexpected experiences that move or change them.

This desire motivates tour companies to partner with local organizations to offer layered experiences which expose societal challenges and enable travelers to participate in the solution. Social purpose is built-in, integrated into itineraries and stitched into the travel supply chain through tours, accommodation, eating, transport, or shopping.

As travelers, we can vote with our feet, make purchasing decisions in line with our values and watch our travel dollars not only deliver meaning to us, but meaning and value to the organizations and individuals we meet. We can witness affected organizations and communities reap long-lasting socioeconomic, cultural, and environmental benefits.

It’s important to note that the examples we cite here illustrate a specific kind of travel experience. They are not volunteer experiences which often present conflicting savior dynamics, nor are they one-off corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiatives. What sets these examples apart is their genesis inside existing hard-working community organizations who seek, not by way of intermediaries or outside organizations, to dislodge deep, systemic societal injustices.

The Future of Travel As Social Activism

As we explore the depth of our curiosity about the world and the places we visit, we find paths of discovery, of community engagement, and of transcendence through experience. And we are often called to challenge and question the way things are and why.

Social activism in our travels – interacting with organizations helping to shift the norms of societies – can be instrumental to this unfolding. If we know what type of experiences and organizations to look for as travelers, we can intersect transforming ourselves with our tiny yet important role in helping to transform the communities we interact with.

We may not be able to boil the ocean of social injustice the world knows by simply traveling, but we can certainly apply some heat based on the travel choices we make.

The post Can Travel Be an Act of Social Activism? appeared first on Uncornered Market.

India is one of our favorite countries. At turns it is complicated yet simple, beautiful and tragic. It overwhelms the senses and is chock full of history, culture and humanity. This is one of the reasons why Dan chose it as his first trip abroad outside North America. It's why we’ve visited four times and why we have plans to return. However, the same features can make India a challenging and overwhelming independent travel destination.

During our most recent visit to India, we traveled to northern India on a tour book-ended by two train trips. Considering our previous travels there – independent, to offbeat locations, plenty of train journeys – a reader asked why we chose a tour and didn't organize train tickets and all else ourselves.

A good question.

In truth, we didn’t need to take a tour in India. However, when we had the opportunity to choose a G Adventures trip (sponsored) as part of our Wanderers partnership we chose this Northern India by Rail tour. Why?

We wanted to experience traveling on a small group tour in India and compare it to our independent travels there. What would we like, what we wouldn’t like, and what we would recommend to others.

Here’s what we found. To us, the pros and cons of traveling in India with a small group tour.

Pros: The benefits of taking a tour in India

India can feel overwhelming and challenging navigate no matter what, but especially if it’s your first visit to the country, and even more so if you are new to international travel. In these circumstances, an organized tour handles the general structure and logistics of the trip and supplies a tour leader to give continual local context and help make sense of the often disorienting commotion so can focus yourself on a deeper understanding and appreciation of the place you’re visiting.

An organized tour in India isn’t only for newbie travelers. For example, my aunt who went to school in India and lived there for many years mentioned taking a similar tour as ours so as to enjoy a “hassle-free trip.”

This got us to thinking. What are some of the other benefits of an organized tour in India?

• Expertise of local tour leaders and guides: When I travel, I’m the — sometimes annoying — one asking the guide endless questions. It’s my job, but I’m also just curious. Access to local expert guides enhances my learning and understanding of a place, of its history and culture. The best local guides also provide their own personal stories which provide color and texture to a travel experience. The most curious traveler wants to know: What is life really like here? My return often features reflection upon anecdotes and personal stories conveyed by tour leaders and guides. These stories add shape to my travel memories. (Note: If you’re new to organized tours, or you already take them and want to make the most of them, read our article on how to make the most of an organized tour.
• Hassle-free logistics and organization: On average people visit a minimum of four websites – and spend endless hours researching — before booking a trip and its various components. Furthermore, making travel arrangements in country can absorb precious hours as you visit multiple offices — especially in India. When your logistics (train tickets, accommodation) are organized by someone else, it frees you to focus on the experience.
• Do more with limited time: Travel only by public transport and you’ll experience lag time between buses, trains and other transfers. With a private bus or transfer waiting for you, you can see more in a limited amount of time. This mode of travel also features the built-in opportunity to experience smaller destinations along the way.
• Itineraries: We enjoy the sort of itinerary where marquee sites form the anchors of an itinerary, while community-based experiences and interactions are skillfully interspersed, again to provide context, depth and texture to an experience or destination. Some of our G Adventures itineraries have featured access to activities and destinations in select local communities, something that would have been difficult and time-consuming for us to have sourced and arranged ourselves.
• Free time and optional activities: Even though we enjoy traveling with a group, we also like to explore on our own and have free time in our schedule. For example, in Dharamshala while the majority of our group visited a Tibetan Institute, we opted to day-hike Triund Hill. Take advantage of flexibility when it presents itself.
• Cost: Traveling in a small group tour typically costs less per person than an equivalent private tour as costs are distributed across the group.
• Medical support: Fortunately, this wasn’t an issue during our tour of northern India. But it’s a wildcard to note. We’ve witnessed passengers falling sick, and we’ve taken note of their comfort in having a trusted, local guide on the visit to the pharmacy or doctor for language interpretation, support and guidance. This is particularly important to note for destinations one might consider gastro-intestinally challenging.

Benefits of an India tour for young female travelers

Traveling in India can be a challenge for young women, especially those who stand out with light hair and fair skin. Although encounters with men are not on the whole physically dangerous, the intensity of attention afforded to young women in India can be unpleasant or even feel invasive. To prepare, here are some travel safety tips for women traveling in India.

Traveling in a group tour helps offers a bit of a shield from some of that attention. It offers the guide and other passengers an opportunity to step in during uncomfortable situations. Having a local tour leader and guide also provides an additional level of protection.

For example, we traveled with four young blonde women on our northern India itinerary. Their appearance literally stopped traffic. Cars pulled over, disgorging local passengers eager to take selfies with them. In circumstances where crowds of people gathered around them, the intensity bumped up a notch. If each woman had been traveling independently — without the buffer of our group and the watchful eye of our local tour leader — the feeling could become more overwhelming, turning to something frightening or even violating.

One woman in our group, Ellie, summed it up well: “It [the attention] is definitely something that young women especially need to take into consideration before visiting [India] for the first time. It can be quite a shock if you're not prepared!”

We've traveled enough in India and spoken to countless young solo female travelers about their experiences in the country. On this account, our case is not overstated. Here's

Benefits for solo travelers

Regardless of whether you are male or female, traveling solo to India for the first time can feel daunting and disorienting. There are also endless stories of scams to which travelers have fallen prey in India. Having a local guide to ask about things and the support of a group of fellow passengers can help mitigate some of those risks and smooth the travel experience.

For example, one of the people in our group had always traveled with his wife. She didn't have any interest in traveling to India, but he really did. However, he didn’t want to do it entirely on his own. Our tour offered him the itinerary he wanted (he was a train buff), the structure and support of the tour to handle logistics and itinerary, and a group of fellow travelers to hang out with if he wanted to.

Upshot of the story: he — and we — all really had a great time, not only with the experience, but spending time with one another. After this trip, he’s begun to consider taking small group tours to other destinations, especially to those places that don’t interest his wife or include activities she wouldn't enjoy.

Cons: The down side of taking a tour in India

An organized tour may not be the best option for every traveler, or for every situation. Here are some of the potential downsides of taking a group trip in India:

• Too fast paced: A fixed itinerary can feel as though you’re moving quickly with early mornings and long days packed with lots to see and do. This is true anywhere, but especially in India where sensory overload combined with limited rest can take its toll.
• Not as much time to explore independently: We find that some experiences, particularly interactions with locals, happen more naturally when we’re on our own, rather than in a group. For example, chatting with market vendors, being invited for tea, random conversations with people on the street, or just getting lost and discovering something unexpected. Solo or independent travelers can appear more approachable to locals than a large group might.
• Cost: Organized tours can be more expensive than choosing to arrange everything yourself, taking public transport everywhere and traveling without a guide. Those are also the same reasons that many prefer to pay a little extra for a tour.
• Less street food exploration: Although all the meals on our tour were optional, we opted often to join the group as they were a fun group of people and we enjoyed their company. Because of this, we found that we ate street food or cafeteria food less often than we might have if we were traveling independently. For good reason and hygiene concerns, our tour guide tended to be more conservative with restaurant choices. The upside was that everyone in our group usually ordered different dishes and was open to sharing so we could sample different flavors and curries. And, no one in our group got sick during the trip.
• Not getting along with other people in group: There’s always a risk that you’ll have “that traveler” in your group and he or she won't click with others. Fortunately, in the 14 G Adventures trips we've taken, we’ve encountered this only once – a traveler whose emotional problems were made worse by alcohol abuse. We steered clear and it was fine. Usually, the tour leader will address these issues early on so it doesn’t impact other passengers and the rest of the trip.

What to look for in an India tour

Sometimes when I mention taking a group tour I get a confused look: “You guys don’t look like tour people.”

We understand. We began as independent travelers. But our work, as well as our partnership with G Adventures, has exposed us to group travel, which we’ve enjoyed for the experiences we've had and the people we've met along the way. For us, this has also built a bit of travel empathy, whereby we appreciate an array of travel styles, preferences and personalities beyond our own.

I should also note that there's a stereotype of organized tours, based on a very particular type of organized tour: dozens of passengers, all the same age and nationality, traveling in an oversized bus, following a guide waving a flag or umbrella, looking disconnected as they’re shepherded from A to B, squeezing in as many tourist sites as possible into one day, punctuated by all-inclusive forgettable meals and unpunctuated by free moments to explore on one’s own.

We acknowledge this style may be preferable for some people. We wouldn’t recommend it though. And this style is vastly different from the one that we have written about above and elsewhere as we've reflected on our own personal experience.

Point is: regarding organized tours, there are many options these days. Know what they are and choose wisely to align with your preferences.

Here’s what we recommend for an organized tour of India:

We offer some general recommendations as you consider your own trip to India, especially one based in part or whole on a tour:

• Small group: For us, the ideal group size is 16 persons or less.
• Varied Itineraries: Keep a look out for routes and itineraries that not only include the usual suspects (major sites and destinations), but also smaller and lesser-known destinations not offered by all tour operators. The lesser-known destinations provide texture and often feature the stories you’ll remember most.
• Inclusion of a community project or social enterprise experience: these community visits often provide travelers with a deeper, more connected experience, while the money from the tour benefits a local organization or community. If you’re going on a G Adventures tour, search for tours that integrate a Planeterra Foundation project experience in the itinerary (hint: it's one of the filters now on their search page).
• Some free time: Make sure your itinerary offers some free time so you can explore on your own, engage in an optional activity with the group or just unwind and rest. No matter where and how you travel, it's unlikely that you'll want to be on the go all the time.
• Combination of train and private transport: If you’re traveling in India, choose itineraries which include some train travel. For us, it’s the most rewarding way to travel India.
• Non-inclusive meals: One of the highlights of traveling in India is the food. We suggest choosing a tour where meals and dishes are your choice, not pre-determined, all-inclusive or buffet oriented.
• Local tour leaders and guides: It may seem obvious that you ought to seek tours featuring guides from the country in which you're traveling. Yet, we've found that's not always the case.

Recommended Small Group Tours in India

G Adventures India and Rail Tours

Here is the small group tour we took in northern India that had a train focus. Plus, we share other options if you have more time to explore India and want to combine different regions by rail. These G Adventures tours all include a local guide, stays at local accommodation, eating out at local restaurants and many also include a Planeterra Foundation community organization experience.

Northern India by Rail

Photo Credit: www.gadventures.com

This is the northern India tour that we did and that is highlighted above. A full and fulfilling week exploring the lesser-visited areas in Punjab and Himachal Pradesh, including Amritsar, Dharamshala/McLeod Ganj, and Shimla.

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Northeast India & Darjeeling by Rail

Photo Credit: www.gadventures.com

A two-week journey beginning in Kolkata (our favorite Indian big city) going by train and van into Sikkim and Darjeeling. This tour also stops by the fascinating holy city of Varanasi en route to its end point in Delhi.

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Kolkata to Kochi by Rail

Photo Credit: www.gadventures.com

The ultimate train journey through India, from Kolkata in the northeast to Kochi in the south. We did a similar journey years ago, but the opposite direction, and loved it. If you have a month to spend in India and love rail travel, consider this tour.

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The post Taking a Tour in India: Pros and Cons appeared first on Uncornered Market.

That’s where some of the lesser known places in northern India like Amritsar, Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj, and Shimla come in. These destinations fall outside the popular and traditional India tourist itineraries and feature smaller towns with fewer foreign visitors (we were often the only ones), cooler temperatures, beautiful temples, a diversity of religions, a toy train that features one of the most picturesque train journeys in the country, and opening vistas to the edge of the snow-covered Himalayas.

This Experiential Guide offers 20 ideas and inspiration on what to do and places to visit in northern India outside the Golden Triangle, focusing instead on Amritsar, Dharamshala/McLeod Ganj, and Shimla. There is good reason why these areas of Punjab and Himachal Pradesh have been our travel wish list for over a decade.

Northern India (Beyond the Golden Triangle): 20 Things to Do, Places to Visit, and Dishes to Eat

For those of you who love maps — as we do — here is a visual of our 7-9 day route through northern India on our G Adventures tour.

1. Catch a ride from Delhi airport with a women only taxi company

Here’s something you don’t see every day: an all-women driver taxi service. Unusual in any destination, but especially so in India. As we exited Delhi airport all the drivers waiting to collect passengers were men, except for our driver, Reena.

Here’s why.

Women with Wheels is a Planeterra Foundation project which partners with the Azad Foundation and the Sakha organization as they provide training and employment to disadvantaged women in Delhi. All G Adventures travelers arriving at Delhi airport have a Women on Wheels pickup included in their tour. This not only provides travelers a safe and comfortable ride to their accommodation in town, but it also means a steady source of income for the women drivers.

Reena, our driver, possessed the requisite nerves of steel and calm required to drive in Delhi, especially during its morning rush hour traffic.

Note: In addition to Delhi, Sakha also operates similar women-only taxi services in Kolkata and Jaipur. You can book your taxi online here.

2. Sit back and enjoy tea on the Delhi to Amritsar Shatabdi Express train

One of the reasons we chose this particular G Adventures tour in northern India: trains. We are train junkies. It’s our favorite way to travel, especially in India where the experience is more than just getting from A to B. It’s about the movement of the train, the flow of landscapes from urban to rural, the people you meet, and the melodic rhythm of life on an Indian train.

Even tea time on the train is special.

3. Admire the high kicks, posturing and mustache competition at the Wagah India-Pakistan border ceremony

Although we’ve experienced our share of bizarre land borders as we’ve crossed from one country to the next, we’ve never encountered anything like the Wagah border ceremony between India and Pakistan. The ceremony takes place daily in the late afternoon as the gates between the two countries prepare to close for the evening.

Imagine a stadium that seats 30,000 fans (on the Indian side), a military officer emcee who riles up the audience to cheer as loudly as possible to drown out the Pakistani crowds on the other side, an Indian flag waving parade of young women and girls, and a mosh pit where riled hordes dance to their favorite Bollywood songs.

And this all goes down before the actual ceremony even begins. Bollywood couldn’t script it any better. Here’s a video taste of what you get:

Don’t worry though. At the end of all this machismo and power posturing, the sides shake hands, indicating peace holds for yet another day.

Visiting the Wagah border ceremony: Foreigners are separated from Indians as they enter the stadium, then seated in a separate section. It can get very hot waiting for the festivities to begin. Consider choosing a seat in the shade up top before making your way down later. Security is tight. Leave all belongings in your vehicle, except the basics: passport, wallet, phone, and camera. Although small purses are usually allowed, camera bags are not.

4. Enjoy the Golden Temple at night

The Golden Temple in Amritsar by night: stunning. Not only does the physical beauty of this place make it so. The atmosphere — welcoming, peaceful and inclusive — does, too.

As the preeminent pilgrimage site of Sikhism, the temple complex courses around the clock with visitors. Despite the constant flow of people, a calm, quiet and meditative feeling prevails. All are welcome, respected and even cared for, no matter their circumstances. ⠀

Even though we’d had the Golden Temple in Amritsar on our minds for years, the nuanced sort of wonder that defined our experience exceeded expectations.

Our suggestion: after taking a walk around the temple complex, find a quiet place to sit and simply be present.

5. Admire how a team of volunteers feeds 60-100k people each day at the Golden Temple langar (kitchen)

One of the most remarkable features of the Golden Temple at Amritsar is its langar, a sprawling kitchen serving free hot meals to 60,000-100,000 people each day. Just try to get your head around that. The scale of food service here boggles the mind.⠀

Also remarkable is that food preparation and service is accomplished mainly by volunteers, with ingredients and money donated by members of the community. Seva, or “selfless service,” is a key precept of the Sikh religion. The Golden Temple attracts volunteers from all over India, and the world.

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During our morning tour, our local guide took us through the kitchen area to witness volunteers preparing for the breakfast shift. Everyone worked side by side — from fire-stoking to chapati-making to dish washing — focused solely on serving others. The atmosphere, humbling. The rhythm, meditative.

6. Enjoy winding views of the Himalayan foothills in Himachal Pradesh

As you depart the lowland plains of Amritsar and head into the hills of the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, the journey begins to switchback wind its way up into mid-mountain territory. Temperatures dip a bit, air freshens.

And the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayas and Ladakh begin to reveal themselves in the distance, just as they accompany us on our drive to the towns of Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj.⠀

When you look at a map and consider distances in northern India it’s easy to think, “Oh, those distances aren’t so great. It won’t take long.”

No.

What you’re not taking into consideration: the small 2-lane winding mountain roads. Yes, it can take 5-7 hours to go 140-150 km.

The upside? All the views. Lush terraced fields, little villages, endless hills, and snow-covered mountains peaking in the distance. As a bonus, if you have a driver like ours you also get some Punjabi hits to accompany the Himachal Pradesh landscapes and 10 different horn melodies he uses to blast warnings to others on the road.

7. Turn the prayer wheels – and keep your eye out for the Dalai Lama — at Tsuglagkhang Buddhist Temple at McLeod Ganj

McLeod Ganj, a once-sleepy town just up the hill from Dharamshala, is now the home of the Dalai Lama and the headquarters of the Tibetan government in exile. Since the Dalai Lama fled to India in 1959, it has become home to tens of thousands of Tibetan refugees, lending the town a strong Tibetan cultural feel.

Although the Tsuglagkhang Temple Complex is where the Dalai Lama resides today, don’t expect to just run into him in passing. He’s busy about the world. But you can enjoy a peaceful walk around the temple – and enjoy its impressive collection of murals, statues and prayer wheels.

Turn each mani prayer wheel clock-wise. Or just be present in the moment.

Note: If you want to learn more about Tibetan culture, arts and religion, be sure to check out the Norbulingka Institute near Dharamshala. The rest of our G Adventures group visited and said that the grounds and gardens were incredibly peaceful and pleasant.

8. Hit the hills outside of Dharamshala for a day hike to Triund Hill

We couldn’t resist getting closer to the mountains outside of Dharamshala. So we hiked up to Triund Hill (2,800 meters / 9,200 feet). The view from the top includes sweeping looks of the Dhauladhar Range. This is the reward for a day hike up a fairly well-defined but rocky path from McLeod Ganj through the village of Dharamkot. It's definitely worth the steep climb and the 20km round trip of hiking.

Note: The hike from McLeod Ganj is around 9km one way, and 7 km from Dharamkot. We began our day further down the hill. That's why our walk turned out to be 20km. We were tired by day's end, but it’s easily accomplished as a day hike.

9. Get your momo fix in McLeod Ganj

I have a bit of a dumpling obsession, no matter the variety or origin. After our descent from Triund Hill, the first thing on my mind were momos, Tibetan dumplings filled with vegetables or meat, served either steamed or fried. They are usually served with a roasted chili hot sauce. Delicious at any time, but especially so after hiking 20km.

The steamed veggie momos are my favorite. If you’re sharing with a group, you can sample fried and steamed and come to your own conclusion. Although we enjoyed the fried greens at Tibet Kitchen and believe that their momo skins are ideal, we actually enjoyed the flavor and filling of the veg steamed momos at United Restaurant and Café, just down and across the street.

10. Hang with the pilgrims at Rewalsar Lake

Rewalsar Lake near the town of Mandi is perhaps an unlikely stop, but it's one which helps break up the long journey from Dharamshala to Shimla. It's a peaceful and welcoming one, too.

Legend has it that the great Buddhist teacher Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) took flight from Rewalsar to Tibet and spread Mahayana Buddhism there. Today, Rewalsar is a sacred destination for Hindus, Sikhs and Buddhists; temples from each religion ring the water. Pilgrims circle around the lake with Mani prayer wheels in hand and prayers on their lips.

Given the surprised looks our group received, foreign travelers – as yet, anyhow – typically don’t visit this sleepy pilgrimage town. However, that didn’t stop locals and visiting pilgrims from flashing smiles and engaging with us as they gathered with friends on park benches at the end of the day.

11. Walk The Ridge in Shimla and feel transported to England…and another era

The British chose the once sleepy hill station of forested Shimla as their summer capital (1864 – 1947) so as to escape the heat and crush of Delhi. You can still see the surprisingly well-maintained remnants of this today. Shimla is now a bustling and not-so-little hill town filled with pedestrian-only promenades, churches, and British mock Tudor and colonial architecture.

With its cooler temperatures and views of the Himalayas, Shimla is a fun place to wander, enjoy the hillside perspective and take in some easy-going shopping. It’s easy to see why this is such a popular destination for both Indian and foreign visitors.

12. Lose yourself in Shimla's Lower Bazaar

Just down the street from what feels like little England, bustling Indian markets burst with spices, color, and tons of activity. Our suggestion: just walk, poke your head into stalls, take a turn or two on the laneways, and enjoy some sensory overload.

The spread of spice stalls across Shimla’s Lower Bazaar features sacks and tins, and ancient wooden racks, drawers and dividers that ought to have a voice so that they might tell us their stories. Colors are earthy and bright, chili peppers of the deepest red, turmeric of an otherworldly yellow. Scents waft among it all. The whole and the ground; the sweet and the pungent; the blended and the masala’d all help make Indian food so delicious and complex.⠀

Wander, question, show curiosity, and perhaps add something familiar and needed, or unfamiliar and unknown to one’s spice rack back home. For as many times as we’ve been to India, we always discover something new or encounter something unusual. And, we always meet someone interesting along the way.

13. Explore the grounds and gardens of the Viceregal Lodge (Rashtrapati Niwas)

Not far from central Shimla on Observatory Hill is the grand and impressive Viceregal Lodge, the former residence of the British Viceroyal of India from 1888 to India’s independence in 1947. As you take a guided tour of the interior you also hear the story of how the lodge played an important role in negotiating India’s independence. Black and white photos tell the story of the major players of Indian independence and Partition, its split with Pakistan.

The lodge that once served as a symbol of British colonial power is today the Indian Institute of Advanced Study, considered the top academic and research center in the country for the humanities and social sciences. What were once grand dining halls and ballrooms now serve as libraries and areas of research and academic thought. A rather apt twist of history.

After your tour of the lodge’s interior be sure to take some time to explore the surrounding gardens.

14. Enjoy the breakfast of champions — masala dosa and coffee — at the Indian Coffee House in Shimla

The India Coffee House on Mall Road in Shimla is more than just a cafe or restaurant; it's an institution. It was established in 1957 as part of a program to allow coffee workers to set up, run and manage coffee houses, and to generate additional income. Over 50 years later the oldest cafe in Shimla is still going strong.

To our sense, not much has changed — in a good way.

A masala dosa and a strong cup of filtered coffee — the real stuff, not instant — is one of our favorite ways to start the day. Although I'm sure all their food is good, we heard from our guide that they are best known for their southern Indian dishes (e.g., dosa, idli, etc.). Visit to the Indian Coffee House not only for the food. It's the atmosphere of the place, including the professional waiters (see the photo above), that really make for a fun and engaging experience. Not to mention, because its run by coffee workers, the coffee is actually quite good.

On a practical note, the Indian Coffee House seems to be the only cafe open in Shimla before 9AM. If you're an early riser or have an early morning train to catch, this is the place to go.

15. Take the ropeway down from Hanuman statue for views of Shimla

If you really want to get above it all in Shimla take a walk up to the giant Hanuman statue at the top of the hill. It’s not a long walk, but it is steep and you need to beware the pesky and aggressive monkeys that want to take your sunglasses, water bottles, and snacks.

Take note of the sign at the bottom which indicates the average amount of time to walk to the top, according to one’s age and relative fitness. Then compare your results!

On the return, however, we suggest you take a relaxing ride on the ropeway, or gondola. You get a beautiful view of the town below and of the expanse of hills surrounding Shimla. The clearest days yield views of the snow-covered Himalayas.

16. Pair an Indian craft beer with some pani puri

One thing we were not expecting to find in Shimla: a craft beer brewpub. We enjoyed a pale ale and shared fusion-inspired snacks at Brew Estate. Though it doesn’t fall into the category of “traditional Indian,” it does reflect a segment of modern India. It also makes for a delightful and safe way to order several small plates and share some Indian street food favorites. You can also order a full proper dinner here, too.

If you’ve had your fill of high-octane “strong” Indian beer, then enjoy a flavorful citric pale ale, red ale, or hefeweizen wheat ale in Shimla. Then, order several rounds of pani puri for your group to enjoy.

Pani puri is common street food snack made of puffed balls filled with potato and topped with tamarind juice, plain yogurt and coriander sauce. Delicious, but often the various liquids, herbs and ingredients can leave a traveler with Delhi belly.

That’s why the pani puri at Brew Estate was perfect. Everyone in our group tried this unique and fun combination of flavors, but in a safe and perfectly hygienic setting. Everyone loved it, so several orders circulated the table.

17. Take the Toy Train from Shimla to Kalka and Count the Tunnels (Hint: 103)

Built in the late 19th century, this narrow gauge railway winds itself through the hills of Himachal Pradesh, often twisting and turning back on itself in feats of navigation and engineering. At almost 100 km, this 5 hour train ride is one of the most scenic, ambling and pleasant in India. Stops in several stations offer ample opportunities for milk tea and snack breaks along the way.

18. Take a city walking tour in Delhi led by former street kids

Although this experience isn’t included as part of the G Adventures Northern India by Rail tour, it is offered as an optional activity. If you have a free day in Delhi before or after your tour begins, we recommend you seek it out. Just ask your G Adventures tour leader (CEO) to help organize it. If you’re not on a G Adventures tour, then you can inquire here.

This tour is like no other typical city walking tour — in a good way. Here’s why.

Anny, pictured above, guides us through a narrow alley near Delhi railway station. Her personal story is one of having been orphaned at five years old. For the last ten years she has lived in a shelter run by Salaam Balaak Trust, a local organization providing support, education and training to children who once lived their lives day and night on the street.

Besides sharing her knowledge of Delhi, Anny gave us some more background on the street children in India – the various ways many of them end up on the street, their survival tactics, and the ways they spend the money they make and steal. Their dreams, too.

This Planeterra Foundation project together with Salaam Baalak Trust offers youth the opportunity for English language courses and training in guiding and tourism. The goal: to build new confidence and give the children practical skills and experience in preparation for the time they must leave the shelters (at 18 years old) and they begin seeking employment. Social impact travel in action.

19. Savor the charcoal dal makhani at Kitchen with a Cause and support disadvantaged youth

We consider ourselves pretty savvy and knowledgeable when it comes to Indian food, but we'd never had dal makhani served to us stewed with a smoldering piece of charcoal.

Smoke-infused creamy lentils equals amazing.

This social enterprise restaurant provides hospitality and restaurant training to former street kids and disadvantaged youth. Completion of a minimum 6-month training period also helps them find full-time employment in restaurants or hotels afterwards. To eat well and support disadvantaged youth: satisfying.

Address: 15A/63, Ajmal Khan Rd, Block 15A, WEA, Karol Bagh, New Delhi. It's about a 5-10 minute walk from the Karol Bagh metro station.

20. Deck yourself out in Indian clothes and colors at Fabindia

On our first trip to India together over ten years ago I discovered Fabindia, an Indian clothing shop that uses high quality natural cottons and materials and works with rural communities so as to provide local opportunities for employment. The colors, designs, and cuts for both traditional Indian clothing (e.g., kurtas, tunics, dupattas, saris) — as well as more western-style items — are beautiful, unusual and high quality.

In other words, it’s the perfect place to get yourself outfitted with some traditional Indian clothes for your travels in India. This not only helps you fit in and shows respectful dress, but the clothes are loose and comfortable for the local climate. For women I recommend picking up a couple of tunics and kurtas that you can wear either with jeans, light walking trousers or as a set with a pair of their colorful matching trousers. All the choices, sizes and colors are a bit overwhelming at first, so don’t be afraid to ask for help from the local staff. Or from your husband.

There are several Fabindia locations in Delhi. I had especially good luck at Connaught Place.

The post Northern India Beyond the Golden Triangle: A Travel Guide appeared first on Uncornered Market.

When we told friends last month that we would visit social enterprises in Peru which intersected with the travel industry, we could read in their reactions both affirmation and confusion.

“Social enterprise…hmmm, that sounds cool. But what does that really mean? And what does it have to do with travel?”

Similarly, I recently suggested to clients in Kyrgyzstan that the regional DMO (Destination Management Organization) operating models Audrey and I helped them set up — tourist office-agencies which developed the local tourism sector while earning money from its local tours and services to sustain operations — resembled a social enterprise. We considered this a strength.

“Social enterprise…what’s that?” They asked. “And how do we do it?”

Before we answer those questions, a step back as to why this matters – to those of us who travel, to the local communities we visit, and to the world as a whole.

Note: This article was originally published June 12, 2018 and updated on April 3, 2019.

Overtourism vs. Community-Based Tourism: The Opportunity Landscape

We’ve all seen headlines about 1.2+ billion tourists and the potential environmental, cultural and economic havoc overtourism can wreak on the places we visit. Not to mention, the negative impact on the destination and experiences that brought tourism there in the first place.

It doesn’t have to be this way. Tourism done well and right can also enhance local communities so that they are at once attractions and also better places for local people to live. This is the sustainable tourism holy grail: travelers traveling with social impact in mind, making deliberate travel decisions aligned with their values, having more meaningful travel experiences, and engaging with businesses and organizations that care.

A tall order, isn’t it? Among the mechanisms travelers have to achieve this, social enterprise.

We’ve always minded the social impact of travel throughout our work, travels and writing. However, it was our recent “G for Good” tour-meets-study trip in Peru with G Adventures which further catalyzed our thinking. Our experiences in Peru exposed the supply chain and demonstrated in detail exactly how purchasing travel services (e.g., tours, accommodation, restaurants, transportation, souvenirs, etc.) through social enterprises can deliver benefits to travelers and communities at once.

It also expanded and deepened our sense of what those benefits are.

What are Social Enterprises? A Working Definition

Though the concept has been around for ages, the actual term “social enterprise” originated in the U.K. in the 1970s. Initially, it meant a financially viable common ownership organization operating in an environmentally responsible way, delivering something referred to as “social wealth.”

“What is that in ordinary speak?” you ask.

Fast-forward to today, using layman’s terms. A social enterprise is roughly a market-driven organization which also fulfills a social or environmental mission. We could debate and parse words, but the two concepts required to pass the social enterprise sniff test: the organization makes money, then invests a significant portion or all of its proceeds/profits back into community projects.

Social enterprises are not entirely dependent on grants or donations (this is how they differ from NGOs). Instead, they are financially sustainable through the sale of their products and services.

It's also true that social enterprises and their products often appeal to consumers on an altruistic level. That link may even inform the business model and messaging. Regardless, the essence of the social enterprise remains the same: earn money and invest the lion’s share to serve the community.

Let’s talk features and some common examples you might find in your travels.

5 Key Features of Social Enterprises in Travel: What Makes Them Unique?

1. Organic and Driven by Community Strengths

A social enterprise may find motivation and market access through an international partner, but its essence is organic. Its products and experiences typically draw on the existing cultural raw materials and strengths of the local community.

If you peel back the layers of how a social enterprise came to be, you might find a community which asked itself, “What do we need to accomplish our goals? And what cultural assets, strengths, and elements of identity can we bring to bear?”

Sure, sometimes outside advice or financing is needed to kick-start the project and help achieve those goals, but the ongoing physical and mental energy emanates from within the community.

Adrienne Lee, Director of Development at Planeterra Foundation, explained: “We'll work with our community partners and ground partners to develop a tourism plan that encompasses and drives their vision and mission-driven work (help brainstorm what we've done in other countries, look at where we might be able to replicate models, collaborate on ideas) and develop this budget with them.

We provide our funding for the length of the program to get it off the ground. Once it's “market-ready” and included into tourism product (or G Adventures itineraries), and our budget for the tourism enterprise is completed, we usually step away at this point.”

2. Market-Driven and Viable

In Kyrgyzstan, we worked with four regional DMOs, focusing first on inventorying capacity, then branding and identity, and finally on implementing a rapid sustainable product development process.

The aim: to create market-ready tour products that highlighted the unique strengths and characteristics of each destination while also tapping into the leading travel market trends of food, culture and light adventure. These new local experiences rose to meet traveler demand to do and engage more in each destination, but in a way that emphasized community, identity and dignity. Throughout the process, the DMOs behaved as social enterprises.

After just one tourism season, average stays in each of the destinations – Karakol, Osh, South Shore of Lake Issyk-Kul, and Jyrgalan – is on a steep upswing. Each destination now has a brand identity in line with products and traveler experience. Moreover, community members now say things like, “We think about ourselves differently…we never thought about ourselves or our abilities in this way.”

3. Surfaces the Human Supply Chain

A travel experience is created and delivered differently from an object like an iPhone or a purse. Sure, people might have helped make those things. But, when I hold those products, I rarely experience direct human contact.

Not so in travel. Travel is high touch, high context. When I travel, people are not only involved throughout the process, they are essential.

This is especially true with experiences delivered under social enterprise. Impacted communities aren’t just a backdrop. Their human engagement components are the main event. They serve as critical, differentiating features of the travel experience. The idea: you are immersed in the community or environment, and your purchase and engagement make a direct, positive impact on the people you’ve met.

In this way, tourism truly is the people’s business.

Our first travel encounter with a social enterprise was in Hanoi, Vietnam ten years ago. The Hoa Sua School network of restaurants, bakeries and cafes throughout the city provided hospitality training and practical work experience to disadvantaged youth. Not only were food quality and service level high, but we also knew that our money (and our time) spent at the restaurants contributed to the futures of the young people working there.

4. Their Ecosystems Spawn Knock-On Businesses and Benefits

Because social enterprises are community-centric, they often spur development of other micro-enterprises to fill gaps and meet new supply needs. For example, at Parwa Community Restaurant in the Sacred Valley — a three-year initiative co-financed by the Multilateral Investment Fund of the Inter-American development bank and G Adventures, implemented by Planeterra — one local entrepreneur set up a business to harvest quail eggs essential to one of the lunch courses on the menu. Another community member entrepreneur now offers trekking snacks made from local, natural ingredients to sell to travelers headed for the Inca Trail.

When a social enterprise is successful, the community may draw other needed attention, too. At the Ccaccaccollo Women’s Weaving Cooperative, another Planeterra Foundation project, one woman told the story of how the cooperative’s success encouraged the local government to begin improving local roads. Absent the community’s social enterprise success, she believes the government would have continued to ignore their requests for infrastructure assistance.

5. Transcends the Transaction

Especially for external partners creating or making an investment in social enterprise, it’s about having skin in the game. And we’re not just talking an economic or financial stake, but an emotional one.

Unlike some Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) initiatives, social enterprise is not about donating a bunch of money to salve one’s conscience, or throwing a couple of paragraphs in the annual report to tick off the “we’re doing something good” corporate checkbox. Don't get us wrong — those types of donations and support are also essential. But building or investing in a social enterprise is different.

Social enterprise creation requires active engagement, depth of involvement and connection. It demands the expenditure of personal capital, emotional capital, and time. When done well and thoughtfully, the result is the creation of something that matters to an entire community of people beyond just those directly employed.

To think of it another way, social enterprise investment resembles venture capital where not only is money invested, but time is spent mentoring, guiding and building relationships. This approach typically offers better stewardship and oversight of one’s investment, but it first requires a greater level of care and commitment.

As a traveler or a consumer, take a step back from any transaction or interaction with a social enterprise and ask yourself: Does it feel as though involved parties and partners are present and engaged? Do they really care about more than just the financial bottom line? Can you feel it?

5 Ways Social Enterprises are Good for Travelers

Social enterprise-powered travel generally fits within in the category of responsible travel or sustainable travel. Its features rich, engaging, high-context travel experiences – in part because there is no trade-off between travel pleasure and advocacy or giving back.

Instead, those are all bound together. And as a result, a traveler’s experience is enhanced or multiplied.

How?

1. Cultivates Interaction, Participation and Exchange

Social enterprise-powered travel often allows travelers to participate, to create, to interact directly with local people and communities, in a respectful, engaging way. It’s not just about observing or watching, but actively engaging in a hands-on way that chips away at barriers, assumptions and fears.

What travelers often implicitly understand in social enterprise contexts is that they and community members both – that is, each of us – has something special to offer that’s reflective of our life experience and our home culture. In this way, social enterprise travel dissolves any sense of “levels” of humanity – through interactions and experiences which simultaneously emphasize what we have in common while constructively and curiously highlighting the differences that brought us to visit the community in the first place.

When we worked with Destination Osh and Destination Karakol in Kyrgyzstan on developing food-related tours with local families and entrepreneurs, our emphasis encouraged hands-on, interactive experiences. The idea: travelers and hosts create something together while everyone shares a bit of himself in the process.

The result: bread-making courses, a family dinner where you make your own ashlan-fu (a delicious cold, vinegar-based soup), a plov (traditional rice-based dish) cooking class. The essence was interaction, not transaction. Because of that, travelers engaged in resonant experiences where their purchases all impacted locally and directly — with people the travelers actually met.

2. Builds Connection, Meaning and a Sense of Stewardship

Travel experiences delivered through social enterprise develop connection between travelers and the local community and environment. These connections also build meaning in multiple layers — in part by cultivating an immeasurable sense of care for more than oneself. Social enterprise enhances the travel experience by enabling us as travelers to develop a growing sense of ourselves, our world and our place in it.

Also, long after a social enterprise experience, its memories reinforce a relationship between the traveler, the community and the organization that brought them together.

3. Offers a Natural Platform for Transformational Travel

The binding of connection, meaning and exchange offers a natural platform for transformational travel – the idea that after my travels, I emerge changed, perhaps engaging with the world and my life back home differently upon my return.

Often times, we talk out of cliché about our travel experiences changing our lives. However, social enterprise and travel animates and motivates. Community-engaged travel experiences offered by social enterprises often plant seeds of thought and care. They provide human anchors that expand our experiential vocabulary and enable us to articulate how a travel encounter has impacted us.

Because its high-context, social enterprise often allows a traveler to more clearly articulate “This is how my travel experience changed me. This is who touched me and how I was touched.”

4. Delivers a Local Experience

Travel experiences with social enterprises are by nature community-based. So their essence, features and details are entirely local. As a traveler, you don’t need to interact with a social enterprise during your travels to ensure a local experience. However, if you engage with a social enterprise, it’s virtually guaranteed.

It’s hard to imagine an experience more local and real that the Maasai Clean Cookstoves social enterprise experience in northern Tanzania. While many tours in Tanzania visit a Maasai village on a show-and-souvenir display, this social enterprise begins by using a portion of the tour fees from G Adventures passengers headed to the Serengeti to purchase a clean cookstove for a Maasai family in a nearby village.

It then takes travelers through a stove installation process. And it's all led by local Maasai women who articulate the importance of this simple cooking device to the well-being and health of local families. Travelers enjoy a unique, intimate experience in a Maasai village, with a Maasai family.

5. Delivers a Differentiated Experience

To the point, travel experiences delivered by social enterprises are typically not of the ordinary, beaten-path variety. Because of their local, personal, community-based nature, they often feature something unusual, something different – sparking the feeling of, “I never thought about it or looked at it this way.”

This was also the case of Parque de la Papa, a new G Adventures and Planeterra Foundation partner in the Sacred Valley.

I admit to having a conflicted relationship with potatoes since they often serve as tasteless filler. Potatoes were not something I would have considered building a travel experience around. Well, no longer. After meeting a local farmer and potato enthusiast at this local organization that works with nearby agricultural communities to preserve 3,000 varieties of Peruvian potatoes, I'm convinced. No longer the lowly potato.

There were over 500 or so varieties of potatoes on display of funky shapes, colors and flavors (Yes, I ate many… and they tasted unreal!) that I had never before seen or imagined. Moreover, the discussion on potatoes and the importance of their preservation to food security of these communities helped me better understand the historical and cultural relevance of potatoes to Peru and to its people.

In other words, I'll never look at the humble potato in quite the same way again.

G Adventures pays a tour fee to Parque de la Papa for an educational, cultural and culinary experience en route to Machu Picchu. While 42 people are employed by the park, around 2,500 people in nearby communities are impacted indirectly by this social enterprise. Not to mention, the sustainable stream of income from traveler visits allows even more research to be conducted on preserving indigenous food sources and seeds.

Rare in travel that something so unassuming could have such wide-ranging impact.

5 Ways Social Enterprises Are Good for Communities You Visit

The desire to give something back to the places we visit is wholesome and ought to be encouraged. However, we need to find the appropriate outlets or channels to give effectively. The market-based, community-aware nature of social enterprises naturally lend them and their experiences to delivering direct impacts to communities and facilitating positive outcomes.

Here are just some of the impacts and benefits we've seen social enterprise-powered travel deliver to local communities.

1. Preserves Traditions

Social enterprises often aim to preserve storytelling patterns and local traditions, not only because that preservation is essential to the community and its identity, but also because those assets are valuable to delivering differentiated experiences to the travel market.

Social enterprise travel experiences typically offer culture concurrent with reality, evolved and presented in a way that feels like living history. In some instances, social enterprises rescue and resurrect valuable traditions that communities didn’t even realize they were in danger of losing.

Ten years ago, many of the local indigenous designs and traditional methods of weaving almost died out in the remote Sacred Valley village Ccaccaccolla. Although tourism in nearby Cusco and Machu Picchu had been growing, the village was far enough off the main road that they were missing out. Economically-viable opportunities for local women to produce their traditional handicrafts were evaporating quickly.

With the development of the Ccaccaccollo Women's Weaving Cooperative, G Adventures brings close to 15,000 of its tour passengers per year to visit this social enterprise. Forty-six local women now earn a living for themselves and their families by sharing their traditional weaving techniques with travelers and selling their handicrafts directly to visitors without the need of an intermediary.

Several women reporting having used their income to send their children to university, something that would have been unimaginable only a few years ago. Others have invested in developing a homestay program for travelers interested in an overnight Peruvian village family experience. Mothers are once again teaching their daughters traditional Incan weaving methods and designs, hoping to sustain their passage through the generations.

2. A Dignity Based on Identity and Exchange

Social enterprises are not about charity or an unequal hierarchical relationship where one gives something to another. The key feature of social enterprise is exchange – not only of goods, services and experiences, but of a kind of cultural interchange which communicates that we all have something of value to offer one another.

This relates to the organic nature of social enterprise – where business, products and experiences link back to a sense of personal pride and stewardship for one’s community.

Key to this is the concept of identity. Engage in social enterprise-powered travel and you’ll feel and hear a sense of pride – especially when travelers from all over the world come not only to see the local nature and landscape, but to see and experience a local community — their culture, crafts, cuisine and life.

Ownership and development of this asset becomes local; and transformation ripples at the individual, group, ethnic and community levels.

This concept was first highlighted and demonstrated to us by Rabee’ Zureikat, founder of the Zikra Initiative in Jordan, an organization whose core philosophy is “riches come in many forms.”

In our experience with the women of Ghor al Mazra'a as part of a Zikra Initiative experience, they shared with us their cultural wealth — their crafts, cooking, culture, and a glimpse into their lives, their family and a primarily Afro-Jordanian community along the Dead Sea.

In other words, everyone, no matter his or her socio-economic position, has something of value to share with this world. Enterprising on the basis of this simple principle delivers a continual sense of pride, confidence and dignity.

3. Focused and Targeted

Social enterprise typically concentrates its effects on small, often marginalized communities. One social enterprise may only affect a limited number of people, but it likely does so deeply. It leads and offers examples within the wider community and to ones nearby who might wish to do something similar.

In this way, social enterprise and travel helps alter the world through micro action and effect.

4. Inclusive

Social enterprises often exhibit the core value of inclusivity – a way of living which is essential to serving the community. That inclusivity implies opportunity, especially for those who might otherwise be excluded due to their socio-economic status. It's important to note that inclusivity is provisional only on the basis that one is willing to work, to cooperate and to develop a skill. This is why job training is often a crucial component to social enterprise, as it’s along the path to expanding the pie and growing the benefit to the community and its members.

When we traveled recently to Phnom Penh, Cambodia earlier this year, we came across a network of social enterprises run by Friends-International. These businesses apply a vocational training business model which provides practical and in-demand skills and professional experience to targeted disadvantaged and marginalized youth, populations typically excluded from such opportunities.

For example, at the Friends Nails Bar, Audrey dropped-in for a manicure and pedicure. The entire organization, including the affiliated souvenir shop and restaurant, was geared to developing a professional bearing and helping its employees build confidence to continue working or launch their own businesses as they develop.

5. Economic Impact is Additive, not Extractive

If you wish to measure the full cost of your visit – ask yourself, “Besides the money I paid, what of value is left on the ground in the community after my visit?”

In other words, what's the net impact?

Essential to social enterprise is the development of an asset base or knowledge base. It’s not about travel companies running roughshod over a destination merely for profit, stripping it of its essence until it’s no longer recognizable.

The impact isn’t just money and jobs, either. It’s about an ecosystem and mindset which invests in homes, infrastructure, clean water, access to education, and more. It’s about taking stock of how the community has benefited from the enterprise, particularly outside of the direct financial exchange.

Social enterprise asks, “What is the path of the quality of life for people who live there? What is the viability”

Parwa Community Restaurant is located in a small community which is home to 65 families. Through the restaurant and organization's proceeds, community management has chosen to re-invest their profits into projects that spoke to business investment (i.e., tending an organic garden and expanding the restaurant’s capacity to host more travelers), as well as to initiatives that improved the well-being of the community and its environment. For the latter, they invested in things like water containers on community members’ houses to improve access to clean water, a new toilet block to improve sanitation, and a reforestation program to replace trees consumed for firewood.

And that’s only from 2017 profits. In previous years they invested in a computer room for local students, educational scholarships and other home improvement projects. These annual “reinvestments” have the potential to impact the community for years and generations to come.

How travelers can seek out social enterprises

At this point you might be thinking: “All this sounds well and good, but how do I go about finding social enterprises for my next trip?”

A few ideas and recommendations:

• Choose a tour operator — international or local — that partners or actively works with local social enterprises to deliver services or offer tour experiences. We’ve provided examples from the G Adventures social enterprise model in this article. You can also limit your search of their experience catalog to those tours which include a Planeterra Foundation project visit or local social enterprise component. When researching local tour operators ask about how they work with local organizations and communities to be sure that the money from your tour fees also stays in the regions instead of just in the capital city or major cities.
• Consider seeking out organizations who operate as Benefit Corporations (or, B Corporations), a type of legal entity which includes positive impact on environment, community, employees and society in its legally defined goals. B Corporations are recognized in a growing number of states in the United States (33 at the time of writing) and countries around the world. B Corporations can then use free third-party impact assessment tools to bolster their assertions of doing good or pursue independent third-party certification like the B Corp certification. You can find a listing of travel related B Corporations here.
• Conduct online research as to whether there are local social enterprise restaurants, accommodation, tours or shops in the locations where you will be traveling. In addition to mighty Google, Grassroots Volunteering's social enterprise database is a good first stop for tourism-related organizations around the world. Asking your network of family and friends, especially if they are also keen travelers with an eye to social impact and giving back, can also delivers great results and discussion.
• When you're on the ground ask around and keep your eyes open: you'll likely find that your awareness of social enterprises will surface them more quickly in your field of view. (When you learn of something new and your attention is raised to it, the phenomenon is referred to as “selective attention” or blue car syndrome). Cafes or restaurants will often display flyers or signs on their bulletin boards of local social enterprises or community organizations. Sometimes, you'll even literally stumble over the organization, as happened to us in Alice Springs, Australia, where by last-minute chance, we came across a local Aboriginal art gallery at a Salvation Army Community Center.

Conclusion: Intersection of Social Enterprise, Travel, and Healthy Communities

The great thing about the intersection of social enterprise and travel: we can all get involved – travelers, travel industry and trade, and members of host communities.

As travelers, we can achieve two-way impact, experience, and exchange. And as we optimize the impact of travel on ourselves, we can also optimize our impact on communities as we honor and respect the nuance and realities of the places we visit.

Travel companies — now, more than ever — also have the opportunity to innovate experiences which simultaneously engage travelers and serve communities just as it impacts their bottom line. To keep this in check, communities, too, must care.

It just takes a little interest, effort and time – to educate oneself, to get perspective and to continually tune our decision-making processes and choices.

But we’d argue it’s worth it. When it comes to the intersection of travel and healthy communities, we all have a stake.

The post How to Use Social Enterprises to Improve Your Travels…and Make a Difference appeared first on Uncornered Market.

Early in our around-the-world journey, we spent fifteen months traveling through Latin America, but we never made it to Brazil. How did we miss the largest country on the continent, the fifth largest in the world?

Short answer: we ran out of time. Real answer: we psyched ourselves out thinking we must experience Brazil all at once. Given Brazil’s size and diversity, we understood it could take months or even years to travel and fully explore. So we put off a visit, waiting for that perfect timing, our minds darting back often to how we might approach it.

Recently, we decided: Brazil, now’s the time. We embraced the “you don’t need to do it all at once, but choose wisely” approach.

Take a ride on Brazil's southern coastal highways and you'll find roads and towns engulfed in lush, flourishing green, and jungle that opens to dazzling seas and beaches. Marvel at vast swathes of savannah, forest and rivers throughout its inland tropical wetlands. No matter the level of development and modernization across the country — and there’s plenty across its cities, towns and infrastructure — nature appears poised to reclaim.

Against the backdrop of that nature exists a cultural diversity and expression shaped from Portuguese colonial rule, the African slave trade, and waves of immigration and internal migration. This forms the foundation on which we began to understand the country – not entirely, yet deeply — in a short period of time.

If, similar to us, you've wondered how to approach this vast and diverse country with a limited amount of time, this guide is for you. The goal: to inspire ideas of things to do in Brazil, places to visit, and how to engage so as to make the most of your own travels in Brazil.

Brazil in two weeks, from Rio de Janeiro to the Pantanal: An Experiential Guide

For those of you who love maps — as we do — here is a visual of the first two weeks of our route through Brazil on the Wonders of Brazil tour with G Adventures.

Rio de Janeiro, 1-4 days

1. Take the Corcovado Railway and enjoy Rio from above, at Christ the Redeemer

What really struck me most about Rio de Janeiro when we first arrived were its natural features – dramatic mountains, urban rainforests, and long stretches of white sand beaches. Human life, including downtown skyscrapers and densely populated neighborhoods are tucked between Mother Nature’s crevices and cliffs.

We took the Corcovado Railway through the thick rainforest of Tijuca National Park, a place remarkable for both its lushness and size. Tijuca, an urban rainforest, was the result of a massive reforestation project from the mid-19th century when the city realized that the deforestation due to coffee plantations and coal mining had dried up some of the city's main water sources. A reminder not to mess with Mother Nature and her delicate balance.

Christ the Redeemer, the 30-meter high Art Deco statue atop Corcovado mountain, overlooks it all, embracing the city.

The view from the top is remarkable. I found myself wondering how all this may have appeared to colonialists upon their first arrival in the 16th century. Something must have struck them, too. Rio de Janeiro was the country’s capital for almost 200 years; its cultural significance and atmosphere still hold sway.

2. Visit the Planeterra Favela Experience in Vidigal and challenge your perception

You may wonder: “Can a ‘favela tour’ ever be ethical and respectful?” It's important to ask that and other difficult questions when it comes to tours in favelas or other marginalized communities. To find our own thoughts on the matter, we interacted with a Favela tour in Rio and met community members and leaders.

When tourism and tours are developed from and by members of the community, respectful engagement is possible. A community-focused approach enables immersive experiences shaped by local culture, stories, people, and life — just as it did with the one we experienced with Planeterra Foundation and its local partners Favela Experience and Favela Inc.

Local community leaders and organizations create and deliver the favela tour. The experience zeroes in on respect, sharing and cultural exchange. Positive impact is amplified economically and socially since the money stays local and benefit is accrued throughout the community.

Though no one experience will by itself dissolve the otherness of a favela, this one helps. It does so by swapping the story of poverty and danger with the story of human beings making their way — creating, working, living — for themselves and their families.

3. Immerse yourself in Rio’s urban art

Street art and urban art installation fanatics will find no shortage of inspiration in Rio de Janeiro (and elsewhere in Brazil). Across Rio's neighborhoods — from back alleys in the favelas to formal street art public galleries — you'll spot colorful street murals carrying socio-economic, cultural and political messages.

Perhaps no installation better illustrates how public art can impact neighborhoods and urban development than the colorful Selarón Steps at the edge of Rio's Lapa and Santa Teresa neighborhoods. A 20+ year private art project of now deceased Chilean artist Jorge Selarón has transformed a once marginal neighborhood of Rio into one of the city’s most visited sights.

Featuring tiles from over sixty countries, the Selarón Steps are living art history, a community project maintained by local artists in honor of the original project’s inclusive vision.

Ilha Grande, 2 Days

4. Hike Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak), the highest point of Ilha Grande

Ilha Grande, just a few hours’ drive and ferry ride from Rio de Janeiro, was a former leper colony and then high security prison (until 1994). Nowadays, the island is open to the public. It's also a car-free natural reserve whose development is restricted, meaning that you won't find any big resorts or development. And that's a good thing.

One of the best ways to appreciate the span of the island’s beauty and also that of Brazil’s southern coast is to climb Pico de Papagaio (Parrot Peak), Ilha Grande’s highest peak. Many people choose to do this as a summit-at-sunrise hike, setting off at 2:30 AM to reach the peak in time for sunrise over the ocean. (Note: Several people in our group did the sunrise hike with Sunrise Pioneers and had a great experience.)

Some of us, however, enjoy an occasional good night's sleep on the road (yes, guilty!!) and question the trade-off between that sleep and a nighttime jungle hike with headlamps. We opted to set off for our hike just after 8AM from Abraão (Ilha Grande’s town center) and reached the peak some 2.5-3 hours later after four miles uphill through thick, steamy jungle. We poked around, took in gorgeous views and watched vultures and frigate birds circle somewhat ominously overhead.

We may have missed the colors from sunrise and the nighttime jungle experience, but the mid-morning views were still spectacular. No regrets.

Note: If you do choose to hike Pico do Papagaio during the day, get an early start and carry lots of water. The heat and humidity intensify noticeably as the day progresses. This impacts comfort and the summit view due to increasing haze.

5. Relax from your hike on a tranquil (and nearly empty) beach on Ilha Grande

Our original post-hike plan was to take a boat taxi to Praia de Lopes Mendes on the opposite side of Ilha Grande. However, by the time we inquired about transport possibilities in the early afternoon it was already too late because boats were no longer headed in that direction.

We literally missed the boat. We were discouraged and disappointed.

However, we quickly discovered the jungle trails eastward from the main port area of Abraão. They allowed us to easily hop from one laid back beach to another. We sampled a few beaches along the way and settled on Praia Comprida.

Completely surrounded by jungle it felt like our own private, tropical retreat. Besides an enterprising local caipirinha salesman (who churned out cocktails from his own cooler and perhaps sampled too much of his own product), only a sprinkling of other beachgoers were about.

The water was the perfect temperature for a long swim, float or lounge. We relaxed our muscles, watched the caipirinha guy drink all the cocktails he failed to sell, and knew we’d found the place we hadn’t really been looking for after all.

6. Devour a local moqueca on the beach

A Brazilian moqueca is a hearty stew usually made with a combination of coconut milk, palm oil, relatively mild seasoning and fish, seafood or a blend of the two. On Ilha Grande, the local moqueca specialty was made with roasted bananas (moqueca de piexe con banana-da-terra). Although that combination may sound odd — particularly to the banana-averse like me – the contrast of rich savory and sweet was delicious.

A note about Brazilian food portions and serving sizes: In a word: HUGE. Many restaurants will list dishes as serving two people (or sometimes three to four people). Prices are accordingly — and sometimes shockingly — high. As a rule of thumb: take the number of people the menu indicates the dish will serve, then double that (i.e., a dish for two will usually feed four people. Strategize and order accordingly. We found single portions (that is, meant to feed one person) usually featured more than enough food to feed the two of us.

Paraty, 2 days

7. Wander the preserved Portuguese colonial cobblestoned streets of Paraty

Frozen in time, Paraty is. As one of Brazil’s oldest port towns dating back to the late 16th century, Paraty has seen the rise and fall of the gold, slave and coffee trades over its time. Its own fate and prosperity has proceeded accordingly. Thanks to a near abandonment of the city in the early 20th century, its preservation offers a living gallery of 17th to 19th century Portuguese colonial architecture. Streets run in large cobblestones and are punctuated with colorful doors, windows, and decorations. You’ll see how and why Paraty remains a traveler favorite.

The old town is laid out in a grid, making for easy wandering. If a particular street seems too busy for you, just head one or two streets away and you’ll likely have it all to yourself. Although Paraty’s streets are laid back and sleepy during the day, they come alive at night as street musicians and artists take up their acts on every corner.

8. Experience Samba da Benção, the samba night free-for-all on Paraty's main square

Samba is a Brazilian type of music and dance whose West African roots run deep. Heavy in drums and rhythm, samba makes it hard to stand still as the beat makes its way inside you. If you’re timing is good, catch Samba da Benção, the Monday-night Paraty samba dance party on Praça da Matriz, the Paraty main square. It’s free, but donations are kind…and keep the music and party going.

It starts from 8PM. Musicians come out in force, and locals and visitors get their dance on well into the night. The moves are serious, but the attitude not so much – all seem to come as they are.

If you don’t experience samba in Paraty, be sure to ask around along your journey. You'll find samba somewhere – and it will be an important stitch in your understanding of the tapestry and psyche of Brazil.

9. Soak up a lazy beach day at Trindade Beach

Trindade, an easy public bus ride from Paraty, is a favorite beach spot for locals and travelers alike. Walk the three or four beaches connected by jungle trails and determine which one fits you best in terms of atmosphere, crowds, waves and shade. From the town, we walked Praia do Meio all the way to Piscina Natural da Caixa d'Aco, which we found crowded and murky.

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Our favorite beach: Praia do Cachadaço. Why? It was huge, relatively empty, surrounded by lush jungle and home to some big trees perfect for shade. In other words, the ideal location from which to ponder the world during a day at the beach.

You can also do as we did by taking ten steps from your towel and grabbing a seat at the low key beachside Restaurante Caiçara. Then, finish and cool the day off with a bowl of açaí from the café across the street from the bus stop before you return to Paraty.

Iguazu Falls (Brazilian and Argentine sides), 2 days

10. Take in the vastness of Iguazu Falls from the Brazil side

When it comes to waterfalls we often find ourselves skeptical. “Big, beautiful waterfalls!” can often translate to the reality of a far away trickle.

Not so, Iguazu Falls (Foz do Iguaçu). Remarkable, vast, powerful, wide. Humbling. Evidence of Mother Nature’s grip of beauty and power. And a restorer of the promise of a waterfall.

From the Brazil side of the falls (they are shared with Argentina), you can truly appreciate the vastness of Iguazu — or Iguaçu in Brazil, a word derived from a Guarani indigenous root meaning “big water” — the largest network of waterfalls in the world. So large are they that a 90-120 minute walk is flush with panoramic views.

BONUS: Enjoy watching the coati, an animal which looks like an anteater cross-bred with a raccoon. You’ll see coatis all along the trail, especially when food is nearby. Do not feed them, however, as they are already too accustomed to human food and contact.

11. Get up close with Iguazu Falls from the Argentine side

While the Brazilian side of Igauzu Falls provides perspective on their vastness, the Argentine side allows you to get up close to admire — and feel — the sheer power and size of these falls. The network of walking paths throughout the park are really well done and interpreted, taking you through forest above and under slightly smaller falls. Several of the overlooks bring you very easily right next to some of the largest falls. Spend some time; you'll feel the power of rushing water right next to you as you cool off in its mist.

Cap your visit to Iguazu Falls by going into and under them aboard a speedboat. There’s no better way to feel the full force of the falls. The cool water feels excellent, and a full dose negative ions and thrill puts everyone on a natural high. Our boat went three or four times into the falls, with our group cheering for more each time we emerged. We were soaked through by the end and had perma-grins on our faces.

Although we took a similar boat ride nine years ago when we first visited Iguazu Falls in Argentina, this ride was worth the revisit. We would do it again. It’s that much fun.

Bonito, 1-2 days

12. Drift-snorkel through the clear waters of the Rio da Prata

Snorkeling a river?

When our G Adventures CEO (tour leader) told us the river would be crystal clear and full of fish, we had our doubts. Yet, snorkeling in the Rio da Prata at Recanto Ecologico near Bonito exceeded all expectations. Spectacular.

The experience of a drift snorkel down a river, whereby you swim down the river with the satisfying assist of the current, is something remarkable. No video can do it justice, but we share our brief one as a taste.

Book this snorkeling experience at Rio da Prata here.

The Pantanal, 2 days

13. Go wildlife tracking and bird spotting on a late afternoon boat ride in the Pantanal

Although not as famous as Brazil’s Amazon further north, the Pantanal — the largest inland wetlands in the world, stretching from western Brazil into eastern Bolivia and Paraguay — is also one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots. Home to more than 650 known species of birds and to the greatest concentration of wildlife in South America, this vast area of seasonally flooded savannah, tropical forests, grasslands and rivers is bustling with life, most of it imperceptible to humans.

For us, the most enjoyable method to get amongst it in the Pantanal: a late afternoon boat ride with a local guide. Just as the game of “who can spot the most birds?” began, we soon lost count. We encountered so many species – of kingfishers, herons, cranes, cormorants, storks, and toucans – and in such quantity, that is was imperative not to count and click, but rather to enjoy.

Pedro, a self-taught birding and wildlife expert who’d lived his entire life in the Pantanal, was our guide. His ability to spot and identify birds near and far in the distance was stunning. As he explained, any time he’d see something unfamiliar to him during an outing, he’d do his research — until he was familiar with just about every species in the Pantanal. His passion and admiration for birds and wildlife – still after all this time – is genuine and contagious. Despite his having encountered these species thousands of times, each encounter unfolds as if it were his first.

The experience of the boat itself, floating atop and within nature, delivered a peace of stillness and reflection.

14. Go piranha fishing…and feed the caimans!

In full disclosure, I’m not much into fishing and really didn’t think this was going to be particularly enjoyable or interesting. However, Pedro had a way of making it so.

Using simple bamboo fishing rods with chunks of raw meat as bait, we threw our lines into the murky river and waited. I expected that we’d leave without catching anything, as is often the case with fishing. Within minutes, however, piranhas were popping up on the lines everywhere. Piranhas are smaller than I'd expected, but their teeth look like they could do some serious damage.

Not wanting to take our catch back with us, we threw the piranhas back. This turned into dinner time for the caimans circling about.

15. Hang out with a family of capybaras and spot an elusive tapir

Encountering capybaras in the wild was a goal of ours in Brazil. We’d been mildly obsessed with these ROUS (rodents of unusual size) since we met Mimi the capybara in Paraguay years ago.

This time, we wished to see them in their natural habitat.

And jackpot!

During our boat ride, we came across an extended capybara family complete with mother, babies, teenagers and aunts. In nature, capybaras look serious, like all business. I suppose we might all be so if we and our offspring happened to be the meal of choice among a range of predators, including caimans, jaguars and eagles.

More than satisfied with the capybaras, our boat had the good fortune to also spot an elusive tapir emerging from the water. Frightened, he scampered onshore and tried to hurry away. Due to his size and clumsy fear, it took him three tries to finally scale a nearby hill of lightly packed sand.

This time, Pedro’s excitement went off the charts. Tapirs are nocturnal, so daytime encounters are quite rare.

Looking at the shape of the tapir, it seems that Mother Nature carries a sense of humor.

If all this is not enough, you’re also likely to encounter howler monkeys, capuchins, and pecarries (pig-like non-pigs) just as we did. Your birding experience will be rounded out by hawks, a spotted owl, macaws (scarlet, hyacinth and even hybrids), in addition to all the other birds we mention above.

16. Chill out at a pousada in the Pantanal

During the Brazilian summer, the Pantanal can become incredibly hot during the day. This means activities typically take place either in the early morning or late afternoon, providing ample time to slow down. What to do with the rest of that time? Enjoy it.

Sleeping or reading in a hammock, listening to the call of the macaws in the trees above, or just doing nothing but taking in the sights, smells of your surroundings quickly turns to calming bliss. (Note: doing nothing is important and under-appreciated.).

Down time will allow you to better process the remarkable experience that is the Pantanal. And it may also deliver some moments which lend clarity to the life you'll return to after your holiday.

Our days were punctuated with an early morning walk through the forest, horseback riding, a boat ride, and an evening a nighttime walk. Everything is taken at a slow, relaxed pace. This is not only good for us as humans. The animals seem to like it, too, and are less likely to be frightened away.

If you really wish to bring it down a notch – or perhaps take it up a notch – avail yourself of the strongest caipirinha in Brazil served up in a tumbler at the Santa Clara Pousada.

One is enough to lend further clarity…or haze. Trust us.

17. Get your Japanese food and sushi fix

“Japanese food in Brazil?” you might be asking. Yes, it’s a thing. Brazil features the largest population of people of Japanese origin outside of Japan, explaining the Japanese influence on the cuisine. The history of this features a fascinating twist you’d be unlikely to guess.

After you’ve enjoyed your fill of traditional Brazilian food — moquecas, steak, salgados (fried, stuffed snacks) – take a dive into Japanese-Brazilian food. You’ll find plenty of the sushi restaurant standards (e.g., sashimi, nigiri, rolls), and a few Brazilian twists where “hot” rolls and combinations are flash fried or seared.

Sushi is relatively and surprisingly inexpensive in Brazil, particularly given the quality.

18. Get your city beach on at Copacabana and Ipanema Beaches in Rio

The name “Copacabana” conjures images of tropical, exotic, luxury, scene-y. Strutting like supermodels. The Copacabana Beach we found was more inclusive and approachable, featuring ordinary people of all ages enjoying themselves on this 2.5-mile long stretch of public city beach. Same goes for Ipanema Beach right next door.

If you visit the beach, you'll have everything you need as vendors make the rounds selling everything from caipirinhas to grilled cheese logs. Frequent visits to the beach seem the ordinary rhythm of life for many in Rio. In fact, Rio's beaches take on a second surge of traffic at the end of the work day as locals drop by the beach for a cocktail, a dip in the ocean and to watch the sun go down.

Not a bad way to end the day. Or, in our case, to wrap our G Adventures tour in Brazil.

Itinerary ideas for one more week in Brazil

If you happen to have a bit more time and are wondering what to do during a third week in Brazil, we recommend taking a look at Salvador, the capital of Brazil's Bahia region, and São Paulo, Brazil's largest city. These destinations offer complements and contrasts to the experiences, culture, nature and places visited earlier. Here's why.

Salvador de Bahia, 4-5 days

Prior to our visit, we knew little about Salvador and Bahia until our friend Barbara, a travel colleague and friend who knew Brazil well, suggested we pay it a visit to round out our time in the country. She explained that Bahia would be very different from everything else we'd seen experienced on our trip.

It turns out that she was spot on.

Salvador, the capital of the northeastern Brazilian state of Bahia, features a long, deep history — one that is evident and in many ways still alive today. Founded in 1549 by the Portuguese as the country's first colonial capital, Salvador also served as the first slave port and market in all of South America. A significant portion of the estimated 4-5 million slaves that were brought to Brazil, mainly from West Africa, were trafficked through Salvador.

Today, Salvador and Bahia are considered the epicenter of Afro-Brazilian culture. An estimated 80-90% of the population are descended from African slaves, and much of the music, spirituality, and cuisine that arrived with them has been passed down through the generations. Adding further complexity, some of this culture and style blended with indigenous and European traditions. What you encounter on the streets is colorful, vibrant, and lively.

All of this history, together with the backdrop of 16th-19th century Portuguese colonial architecture in Salvador's old town, has earned it UNESCO status. In fact, Pelourinho, the name of the neighborhood which forms the heart of Salvador and its old town center, is the Portuguese word for pillory, a kind of whipping post once used in the main square to punish slaves. A clear sense of local cultural pride in the Afro-Brazilian culture, music and cuisine — formed in part as a resistance and response to hardship — stands in contrast to this harsh reminder.

Our visit to Salvador happened to coincide with the season of preparation and practice just prior to Carnaval. As Salvador features the largest Carnaval celebration of its kind in Brazil, this is a serious affair. We were fortunate to take in “blocks” — or groups of musicians and performers — coursing through the street of Salvador, working out the rhythm and moves of their routines. That and arriving on the day of the Festival de Música e Artes Olodum, meant that the sound of drumbeats and voices echoed through the colonial streets from early morning to well into the night.

Salvador street art, from graffiti to full-on murals — impressed us, too. Works were striking, provocative, colorful, cultural, and reflected some serious artistic skill. Salvador featured some of the best street art in all of Brazil, really.

Our recommendation is to walk around Pelourinho, keeping your eyes open for street art and murals lining side alleys or wrapping around corners. Continue up the hill along Rua do Carmo to Largo do Santo Antonio, perhaps stopping at Cadê Q'Chama? for a hearty moqueca baiana, a traditional coconut milk and seafood stew. Make a big loop back to Largo do Pelourinho, wandering and drifting freely to admire the art and also the Art Deco architecture, much of which is in a state of revitalization.

When you've had your fill of the city's sights and sounds, head out to the beach for a few days. Bahia's most famous beaches like Itacare and Ilhaus seemed a little too far away for us for the couple of days we had. We did, however, enjoy a couple of chill days at Stella Maris beach, in the far north suburbs of Salvador.

São Paulo, 2 days

Although São Paulo doesn't feature the same allure and beauty as Rio, we still wanted to visit Brazil's biggest city before leaving the country. With limited time there, we decided to focus mainly on street art, the Vila Madalena neighborhood, some more sushi and a fresh market or two. We used Jenna's delightful guide to São Paulo to help us plan our remaining time. Her husband's family is from São Paulo, so her guide offers the perspectives of both a visitor and local.

Were our timing better, we would have booked a walking tour with Andre to explore the the older parts of São Paulo and to learn more about its history and development. Although we didn't experience this tour ourselves, we're confident to recommend it. We were able to meet Andre one evening — he's passionate about his home city and has the bearing of a thoughtful yet humorous guide. He also kept us well fed by steering us towards Tanuki Restaurant in Vila Madelena (excellent sushi!) and Mercado Municipal de Pinheiros, whose flea market center is ringed with fun restaurants and bars.

Visas to Brazil

Fortunately, visas to Brazil have recently become easier than they once were for many nationalities. Travelers from EU countries can travel visa-free for up to 90 days. And from June 17, 2019 citizens of the United States, Canada, Japan and Australia will enjoy visa-free travel to Brazil. Win-win.

If you do need a Brazil visa before this change of legislation, then you can get an e-visa here for around $44. It’s a pretty straightforward process requiring that you upload a copy of your passport and a photo, then fill in an online form. We received a response within a few days.

Safety in Brazil

We were told that safety has improved in many cities and locations in Brazil. Places that are popular with travelers are often patrolled and thus quite safe, too. We also felt safe taking the metro in Rio and São Paulo. All that said, it's wise to remain diligent, careful and aware of your belongings and surroundings.

We always asked our tour leader, local guides or hotel staff for advice. If there was any doubt, we would take a taxi or Uber instead of walking, even if the distances were not particularly long. We'd also heard stories about taxis being problematic — ripping off or robbing travelers. So we always took either an Uber or an official, authorized taxi at the hotel. [Note: Uber in Brazil is great for travelers – easy to book on the app, no money is exchanged as you can pay by credit card through the app, and we always felt safe with our drivers. We also met some interesting people along the way.]

If we were highly recommended to avoid a particular area, then we did so. For example, when we arrived in Salvador there was a huge music concert festival underway on the main square. Our guest house host told us to avoid the crowds because of pickpockets and theft — something that's common to huge throngs of partiers and concert-goers no matter where you are — so we enjoyed watching the concert from our balcony instead.

Transportation around Brazil

Brazil is huge — truly. Even though something may look close on the map, be sure to verify the distance and time on Google Maps or similar. For example, we took a 12-hour bus between Iguazu Falls and Bonito. According to our map, we'd barely moved.

Especially if your time is limited, domestic flights are worth considering to avoid spending all your time on a long-distance bus. The internal flights on our G Adventures Wonders of Brazil tour were included as part of the tour. However, we also booked one-way flights from Rio de Janeiro to Salvador, then Salvador to São Paulo — with Avianca and Latam, with generally good results.

We used Skyscanner to understand all flight possibilities and options, including those from low-cost airlines. When we booked our flights directly on the Avianca Brazil website we found that the cost in Brazilian Reals was considerably less than the cost in USD. So, it's wise to do a quick calculation comparison between currencies to be sure you’re booking in the currency featuring the lowest cost.

Buying a SIM card in Brazil

If you're a foreigner, you'll need to go to one of the official mobile phone company shops to register your passport and personal details when you buy a mobile SIM. We chose Claro as it was recommended to us for having good coverage. Their shop was also convenient to the hotel area in Copacabana, Rio. We've also heard that TIM and Vivo are good options for staying connected while traveling in Brazil.

The registration process to buy the SIM takes some time as employees must fill in forms and scan your passport. Allocate about 45-60 minutes for this initial process. After that you can recharge your prepaid plan at most pharmacies and grocery stores around the country. We ended up choosing a weekly data plan that cost 14.99 Rs ($3.75) and included 2GB. It worked pretty well throughout the country, but we just had to remember to recharge our plan just before it expired each week.

The post Brazil Experiential Travel Guide: 18 Things to Do, See and Eat + 2 Week Itinerary appeared first on Uncornered Market.

“I used to see guides from other places taking travelers around the favela,” Russo, our local guide, said as he began his story at the entrance to Vidigal favela.

“What are they saying about my community if they don’t actually live here? I thought I could be a better guide. This favela is my home. I’ve spent my whole life here.”

We kicked off our recent trip to Brazil somewhat unconventionally with a visit to Vidigal, a favela in Rio de Janeiro. When people hear the term favela, their minds can run exclusively to poverty, gangs, drugs and violence. However, during our Vidigal favela tour with Planeterra Foundation and their local partner Favela Experience, we encountered a more complex story.

We met with community organizations and micro-enterprises that serve as the center point of cultural exchange and engagement for visiting travelers. Together, they create experiences based on local culture, stories, and people. The genesis is deliberately local. So too is the conclusion — with economic and social benefits intended to register first and foremost in the community.

Before we discuss our encounters with residents and leaders of the favela, let's talk about what a favela is, the ethics of favela tours for travelers, and what to look for when choosing a respectful and responsible favela tour.

What is a Favela?

Favela is Brazilian Portuguese term literally meaning “little bean” and roughly equating to “shanty town” or “slum.” It's basically an informal district whose residents have often built their homes in the outskirts of major cities — usually in areas like hillsides — where land was once considered uninhabitable by urban developers.

The first favelas in Rio de Janeiro date back to the late 19th century. After emancipation, freed slaves were driven into the hills because they couldn’t afford to live within city limits. These marginalized informal communities then grew through waves of internal migration (e.g., from other parts of Brazil to cities like Rio de Janeiro and Saõ Paulo), especially during times of economic hardship. A story familiar and universal: people fleeing difficulty at home seek a new life and economic opportunity in the city.

Over time, these once informal settlements became permanent. Shops, restaurants and other businesses emerged to serve local residents. Despite this development, favelas usually remained cut off from most or all government services. Economic opportunities in reality were limited, too, particularly when Brazil's population took off in the 1950s and everyone looked to cities for economic salvation.

Hence, the rise of drug trafficking in the favelas and the corresponding reputation of them as centers of violence and poverty. The temptation from a distance to generalize all favelas as slums — “they're all the same” — is reductive and often inaccurate.

“I want to demystify the favela,” Russo said. “Yes, there are bad things here. But there are more good things.”

When windows open onto neighborhoods once considered off limits, there's an opportunity to shift perceptions from objectified narratives of poverty and danger to the humanized ones of residents making their way.

The Ethics and Evolution of Favela Tourism

If you question the ethics of favela tourism and whether it pedals poverty as an attraction, that's good. Intent and impact of tourism in marginalized areas demands examination — whether those visits take place in the favelas of Brazil, the townships of South Africa, or the slums of major cities in India.

To this point, we asked a few locals in Vidigal what they thought about tours in their neighborhood.

The community representatives we spoke to are generally in favor of developing tourism in their favela. Their support is qualified, however. Tours and tourism must be developed from and by the community — as in local people creating experiences based on local culture and history, and delivering it all under a premise of cultural exchange. The money must stay local, too. Benefit must be accrued throughout the community.

A fair expectation, no?

Unfortunately, most favela tours to date have not unfolded in this way. The first wave of favela tours included tourists voyeuristically peering and taking photos from tour buses, never exiting the bus. “Too dangerous,” they were told by their tour organizers who'd charge them $150 or more for the privilege and quick thrill.

Favela walking tours were the next step. But the first of those were led by guides outside the community. Communities saw little benefit. Tour fees and money exited right back out to the tour companies.

Favela Tours with Social Impact: A New Model

Community-initiated favela experiences defined by and led by residents represent the next evolutionary step in favela tourism. When given the opportunity, local people are proud to show what is different and unique about their communities. That's our repeated experience, anyhow.

Planeterra Foundation partners with Favela Experience and Favela Inc, a social impact incubator in the favela, to identify local community organizations and micro-enterprises to form the core of a traveler's experience in Vidigal. Economic benefit is registered locally. So too is civic and cultural pride.

Interactions and conversations from these experiences will inform and shift your perspective and assumptions, just as they did ours. The result: a slow dissolving of the narrative of “otherness,” poverty and danger and its rightful replacement with the story of human beings.

As Russo explained: “None of my TripAdvisor reviews from travelers are about poverty. Instead, they are about the culture and smiles and life that they experienced here on my tour. It changed their view of people living in poor situations.”

When a traveler books a G Adventures tour in Brazil that includes the Planeterra Favela Experience in its itinerary, a portion of that tour fee is paid to the community partner organization as the lead supplier of the favela tour. The tour money is then divided further so that each of the community organizations and micro-enterprises involved is fairly compensated for their work in delivering the tour experience. This provides a steady and reliable source of income to the local organizations for employment and investment.

Furthermore, a portion of tour fees is invested in training, capacity building and support for new and interested community organizations and micro-enterprises. In this way, tour fees contribute to an ongoing cycle of community growth and sustainability.

Faces of the Favela: The People and Community Organizations We Met

The people we encountered were crucial to our expanded understanding of life in the favela. Together with their organizations and micro-enterprises, they form the network backbone of each Planeterra Favela Experience. For the traveler, they also communicate a kind of living history.

Russo and Vidigal Trilhas

Russo swept his hand across the only entrance and exit from Vidigal, a neighborhood with an official census population of 12,000 whose actual population runs nearly three times that. The neighborhood homescape ranges from modest finished buildings to others in states of mid-construction with unfinished floors, exposed brick and rebar.

Russo shared his story of growing up and spending his whole life in the favela — from a childhood in a simple wooden house at the top of the hill to working in a local shop for much of his early adult life. His stories wend their way through the early days of dirt roads to the paved streets coursing the favela today.

That our experience began with and was framed by Russo seemed appropriate. He was among the first local guides in Vidigal. When he initially noticed guides from outside the community escorting travelers through the favela, he decided, “If they can do it, I can do it too.”

With that idea, he founded Vidigal Trilhas, a local tour company, among the neighborhood's first.

As he saw it, the experience — for visitors and the community alike — could be improved if locals told the story of their community, rather than to have someone else tell it for them.

Along our walk, we came to football pitch and practice area for a local percussion group, Batuca Vidi. It was once the territory of a local drug gang. As Russo tells it, he and his friends worked to build the football field because they wanted a place to play. The pitch then fell into disrepair, becoming a drug hangout once again. He and others sought to restore it once more. In a turn of common interest, the gangs supported them and helped clean and rebuild.

As it turns out, many of the drug traffickers had children who needed a place to play, too.

Through community engagement, the neighborhood evolves.

So did what prospective visitors might see and learn.

Isis and Batuca Vidi

Shortly after our tour began, an energetic young woman named Isis appeared, as if out of nowhere. As we discovered from three unexpected encounters with her during our walk, her energy places her everywhere at once despite her busy schedule.

Raised by her grandmother, Isis began playing percussion instruments when she was nine. The most recent chapter of her story begins when, during one of her practice sessions on the street, five local kids approached her and asked, “Can you give us a class?”

Those five kids became her students. Despite having no instruments, they joined her by playing buckets. Interest grew and impromptu drum classes and jam sessions took place in the streets.

Isis later launched Batuca Vidi, a more formal percussion school aimed at teaching school children both music and dance. Batuca Vidi now has over 30 students, ranging from 6 to 17 years old.

With sponsorship from a Brazilian music company they've also transitioned to real drums and instruments.

Thanks to her self study of English and the social entrepreneurship training provided to her by Favela Inc, she now finds herself invited to share her organization's story around the world as she continues to grow it. When we met, she was about to set off for Grenoble, France to advise a local Muslim youth community interested in following a similar model. Later this year, her students will welcome this group from France for an exchange where they will stay and create music in the favela.

When you meet Isis you see a young woman who navigated difficulty to become a community leader. For her, music played a big role in providing opportunity. She wishes to offer a similar path to other favela youth.

Experiences like this reaffirm that positive ideas can travel the world in fascinating ways. And, we all have a little something to teach and to learn from the world we inhabit.

Paulinho and the Sitiê Eco Park (Ecological Park)

Our path continued to the Vidigal Sitiê Eco Park, on the favela's green edge. When I'd first heard of this favela experience component, my expectations were admittedly low. I was surprised, however — not only by how green and lush this urban forest park was, but also by how much had to be overcome to reclaim the space.

When we met the park steward, a gentle soul named Paulinho, it made perfect sense. He was a positive energy force and a sharer of natural medicine and life wisdom. We learned the story of how he and others removed more than five tons of trash over a three-year period following a 2006 landslide which ran through the area to the main road below, killing several people.

As Paulinho walked with us through the park, he treated us to an impromptu natural food and medicine tour featuring samples of tiny local sweet peppers, healing herbs and tasty greens — all of which demanded to someday appear in high-end restaurant salads. He explained the challenge of changing people's trash dumping behaviors. As he planted fruit trees, vegetables and herbs, he incentivized local people. The deal: don't throw trash here and you can come to the park for free fruit and vegetables. He was not only able to change behaviors regarding trash disposal, but also around respecting and valuing nature.

Paulihno shared a unique philosophy on the park and its role in the community. To him, the park was a place of positive energy. But, he said, it also drew in the negative energy of broken souls. He found that sometimes the down-and-out are attracted to the park, finding solace there. His role was to create a balance between these energies by helping those in need and perhaps even saving a few lives along the way.

“If you protect nature, nature will protect you,” he said.

Messias and Vidigal Capoeira

We met Messias, a master in capoeira — the Afro-Brazilian martial art that involves music, dance and acrobatics. In a training area fashioned on the top floor of a community municipal building, he explained capoeira and its West African slave origins. Once repressed by various forces in Brazil, capoeira is now a national symbol and is used to export Brazilian culture worldwide. An estimated nine million people around the world still practice it today.

Messias founded Vidigal Capoeira as a community organization eight years ago. 80 participants, young and old, are involved today.

“In capoeira circle, everyone is the same; there is no social status,” he explained.

His goal is for students to take this philosophy outside of the classroom and into their everyday lives.

During the favela experience, travelers have the opportunity to participate in a capoeira training session led by Massias' students.

I asked him if engaging with travelers on these tours changed his perspective on capoeira. His response reflected the nature of exchange.

“It’s good for the students. They see firsthand the power of capoeira to bring different people together regardless of country, size or social status.”

Then I asked him what surprised him most.

“They have so many questions for visitors,” he said. “They are curious to know about their countries, where they come from.”

Nilda and Vidigal Beer

After taking in the depth of our favela experience, we landed quite appropriately with a fresh Vidigal Beer on the rooftop of Novo Era co-living workspace, the home of Favela Inc and Favela Experience.

Luciano, the founder of Vidigal Beer, is a self-taught craft beer maker who began experimenting at home, combining traditional brewing techniques with some creative twists inspired from the favela. He and his wife Nilda used the initial investment from the Planeterra project to purchase some new brewing equipment, receive training to professionalize their operations, and to better market the Vidigal Beer brand.

During our visit, we sampled an on-point pilsner, perfect for the Rio summer heat. However, we've heard great things about the Vidigal Beer IPA as well. To get a sense of meaning and scale, the micro-brewery currently produces about 50 liters of beer a month, a sufficient volume for its owners to work and provide for their family.

It was a fitting way to end our visit with a sweeping view above the favela. We looked coastward to Ipanema Beach, a scene whose contrasts underscored that — in Rio de Janeiro and the wider world — we are all connected.

Favela Tour Questions You Might Ask

1) What questions should I ask about a favela tour in Brazil?

When you see a favela tour advertised, don't feel bad about asking hard questions to understand how the tour is organized, who is leading it, and where the money and benefit goes. This will allow you to evaluate whether the favela tour is ethical, respectful and incurs positive impact in the community.

• Who created and organizes the tour? Is it driven from the community itself?
• Who benefits from the tour? How? Do tour proceeds remain local?
• Will I have a local guide? How will I be able to engage with the community and its people?

2) Are Favela Tours Safe?

In general, yes. More and more, community members are aware of tourism and its potential benefits. And when you are guided by someone from the community, it further demonstrates your commitment to contributing positively to that community.

It’s important to note that you may come across drug traffickers, maybe even ones carrying machine guns — graffiti-covered ones, no less — during your experience. It’s important to observe just as we did: they are not concerned with you. Instead, there’s an occasional cat-and-mouse between them and local police who are typically kept at bay with bribes. Admittedly, this encounter placed me outside of my comfort zone and startled me for a very brief moment. However, I never felt threatened.

This is what you learn on your visit.

It’s also important to note that many drug traffickers respect and support social projects. Why? Because their families live in this place. Many of them harbor hope — hope for a future where their nieces and nephews and their own children won't need to be involved in the drug trade because economic opportunities exist in ways they did not when they were growing up in the favela.

3) Do I need a guide to visit a favela?

While it is possible to walk around these neighborhoods on your own, it’s not something we would recommend. The value and benefit of visiting a favela is not about the voyeurism of sneaking a peek, but about the interaction with local community members in a unique way that only a local guide can facilitate. This type of interaction highlights context and understanding about the history and evolution of a favela neighborhood over the decades, and in particular, how its residents approach life, engagement, and community development today.

A thoughtful favela experience like this places you in conversation with engaging community leaders. They are the pace-setters for the favela community. Most importantly, this is their home.

The post A Favela Tour in Vidigal, Rio de Janeiro: How to Do One Respectfully and Responsibly appeared first on Uncornered Market.